© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design
Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!
When I completed the pattern for the Yenni Slouch (that’s pronounced like the English “Jenny”, by the way), I had a good amount of Cascade Yarns Longwood Sport left over. So naturally, I decided to make some matching boot cuffs. I am so glad I did… I think they’re the perfect compliment to the hat!
What I really love about these boot cuffs is that, thanks to the #3 weight yarn, they don’t feel as bulky as your standard worsted weight boot cuff patterns tend to. They slip under your boot almost like a super soft, thick sock.
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THE YENNI BOOT CUFFS
Level: Easy
Size:
Small (but easily adjustable) – cuffs measure about 5″ tall and 12″ around
Materials:
- G hook (4.25mm)
- Cascade Yarns Longwood Sport*, 190-200 yards. The color in the photos is Doeskin Heather.
*About Longwood Sport:
Weight: #3 light
Fiber: 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool
Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 273 yds (250 m)
Gauge: 22-24 sts = 4″ (10 cm), US 5-6 (3.75-4.0mm) - Yarn needle
- 2 buttons (1″ or smaller), plus tools to attach buttons to boot cuffs
Gauge: With G hook, 9HDC = 2″
Stitches Used:
CH (chain)
SS (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)
Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect.
Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) Because of the button flap embellishment and the fact that we want it to be on opposing sides of the cuffs (so that it is visible on the outer sides of the wearer’s legs), we have to construct the two cuffs a little differently. Please note that there are two patterns below, one for each cuff.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
CUFF #1
To begin:
CH19.
Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)
Row 3: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 16 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (18)
Row 5: CH1, turn. In 3rd loop, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)
Rows 6-44: Repeat Rows 2-5 in order until you have 44 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4). (18)
Note: If you want to make larger boot cuffs, continue to repeat rows 2-5 until they are the width you desire. For best results, make sure you still end on a repeat of Row 4.
Row 45: CH1, DO NOT turn. Begin to SC down the LONG edge of the project, putting 5SC in each section between ribbing rows (see photo below for a visual). You should end up with 55SC (unless you decided to make your boot cuffs larger – this is fine). Then, CH 7.
Row 46: Turn your work. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Continue to SC across. (61)
Rows 47-50: CH1, turn. SC across. (61)
Row 51 (edging): CH1, turn. SC across (61). Putting (SC, CH1, SC) in both corners, continue to SC around the edge of the button flap. Stop when you get here (please note that this photo is actually from the Yenni Slouch pattern, which is why the band looks so wide, but it’s the same concept):
Sewing the boot cuff closed
Fasten off your yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a yarn needle, sew the ends of the cuff together. Utilize the 3rd loop of the edge with the HDCs in order to blend the seam in so it is hardly noticeable (again, this photo is from the Yenni Slouch pattern, but same concept):
Once you get to the bottom of the cuff, make a knot, fasten off and weave in all ends.
Optional Lower Edging: The bottom of the boot cuffs won’t show, but I like my projects to have a nice finished look, especially if I’m planning on selling them. If you want to give your boot cuffs a clean, finished look as well, go ahead and reattach your yarn, and add a row or two of SC around the bottom edge of the cuff, following the “5SC between each ribbing section” rule of thumb you used in Row 45. Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Use a needle and thread to sew your button flap in place, then attach your button.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
CUFF #2
Please note, Rows 1-44 are identical to Cuff #1.
To begin:
Leaving a 12″ starting tail (to use later), CH19.
Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)
Row 3: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 16 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (18)
Row 5: CH1, turn. In 3rd loop, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)
Rows 6-44: Repeat Rows 2-5 in order until you have 44 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4). (18)
Note: If you increased the width of Cuff #1, make sure you do the same with Cuff #2.
Row 45: Ch7. You are now going to begin working down the long side of your cuff. SC in 2nd CH from hook, and in each remaining CH. Then continue to SC down the long edge, putting 5SC in each section between ribbing rows (see photo from Cuff #1 for a visual).
Rows 46-50: CH1, turn. SC across. (61)
Row 51 (edging): Fasten off and weave in the end. Then, attach your yarn in the inner corner of the button flap, as shown below, and – working on the right side of the boot cuff (the side with the ribbing) – SC around the button flap and across the length of the cuff, putting (SC,CH1,SC) in each corner. When you reach the other end, fasten off.
Sewing the boot cuff closed
Using a yarn needle and your starting tail, sew the ends of the cuff together. Utilize the 3rd loop of the edge with the HDCs in order to blend the seam in so it is hardly noticeable. (See photo from Cuff #1 for help.)
Make a knot, fasten off and weave in all ends.
Optional Lower Edging: The bottom of the boot cuffs won’t show, but I like my projects to have a nice finished look, especially if I’m planning on selling them. If you want to give your boot cuffs a clean, finished look as well, go ahead and reattach your yarn, and add a row or two of SC around the bottom edge of the cuff, following the “5SC between each ribbing section” rule of thumb you used in Row 45. Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Use a needle and thread to sew your button flap in place, then attach your button.
Can I use a different weighted yarn? I don’t have any #3. I have #4. What type of adjustment would I need if so?
Yes, you will need to make adjustments or it will come out too large, but I don’t have those numbers for you.
I just finished this hat and I love it, it will be for my sister and i hope she love it as well. easy to make and easy to understand.thank you
I cannot figure out how to keep the cuff and flap vertical. I end up with the yenni stitches going around (lateral) instead of vertical like the pictures. I was also increasing the width to 17 inches instead of the 12 and cannot figure out why I need 45 rows. I am really stuck and so hope you can help me figure this out. I have made both the hat and scarf without any problem, but the cuffs are throwing me for a loop (no pun intended)!!!
I’m so sorry, I keep reading the comment but I honestly am not sure how to help. You’re making the body of the boot cuffs first, and you’re working them in vertical rows, so you’re doing a bunch of shorter rows that will eventually wrap around the leg. (So if you’re making these for 17″, you’ll need more than 45 rows; you’ll just keep repeating the repeated section until it measures 17″ long instead of 12″). Then, you’ll start working on the band/flap, which is worked horizontal.
I made the scarf last year.It turn out nice.I love it.I use 5ply yarn.And I want to make the hat with the same 5 ply yarn.I can,t remember the size of the hook I used.Do I use the same pattern.please help me . Thank you??
The hat pattern can be found here: http://littlemonkeyscrochet.com/yenni-slouch-hat/
This pattern is so pretty. I love the big button overlap and that you can enjoy matching boot cuffs, You do such quality work, thank you for sharing your skill and talent. As a seamstress for 30+yrs this is one skill I have never adventured to try but wish I could accomplish. I admire those who do it so lovely.
love these
Great cuff pattern. The pattern and pics were clear and easy to follow. I made them for my daughter. And am making more in different shades and textures of yarn.
Love the Yenni boot cuffs. Easy to make as all your patterns are so easy to follow. Thank you for all the lovely patterns!
I love these cuffs! I’ve been wanting to make a pair and needed the right inspiration…now I’ve found it 🙂
love the boot cuffs pattern!
I don’t know what I am doing wrong but I don’t get 18 stitches on row 2. I only have 16. Can’t seem to figure it out. I have started over 4 times but keep getting the same thing.
Are you getting the full 18 on Row 1?
I finally figured out that I was not putting my first stitch in the right place. once I figured that out it worked out. Thanks for getting back to me.
Jody
I was putting my first stitch in the wrong place. Thanks for getting back with me.
Jody
I do not know how to thank you for your generous offering of these beautiful patterns. You are an extremely talented person. I plan on making not only the Yenni slouch hat but the infinity scarf and boot cuffs for my daughter and my son’s girlfriend for Christmas. I know that they will be thrilled to receive them. Thanks so much again. God Bless You and your family.
Merry Christmas and a Happy Healthy New Year
Is there another yarn that you can recommend as substitute for the Longwood? I am having hard time finding that.
You could use Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn Sport. I also heard from a girl who used Caron Simply Soft with good results. It’s so thin that it’s almost like a #3 yarn. 🙂 And since these are worked flat, you can just crochet until they are the width you need them to be anyway. Good luck!
GREAT PATTERN! Thought I should let you know though, that in the cuff section (for both the right and left cuffs). In line 4, it says to HDC in each of the next 26 st when it should read HDC in each of the next 16 st.
THANK YOU for catching that! 🙂