Author: rebecca

Neverending Zinnia
My Neverending Wildflower pattern went a little viral last year, and I’m thrilled that you guys liked it so much. I turned it into a 12″ square for Moogly’s 2015 CAL, as well as a Shoulder Bag for a CAL of my own last summer. Most recently, it became a Dish Scrubby! I’ve even seen my readers come up with gorgeous variations of their own, turning it into pillows, potholders and more. So fun!

Today I’m giving you a pattern for a very similar flower. It’s constructed the same as the Neverending Wildflower, but instead of petals that get larger and larger with each round, it has petals that stay the same size but get more numerous, resulting in a huge mass of tiny petals — like a Zinnia flower!

Like the Neverending Wildflower, the Neverending Zinnia can be made larger and larger and larger, without getting any taller. This makes it perfect for an appliqué on a blanket or a bag.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

THE NEVERENDING WILDFLOWER

Hook: H (5.00mm) or size appropriate for the yarn you choose
Yarn: The yarn you choose doesn’t matter, as long as your hook is a good match for it. I used an H hook and worsted weight yarn for my sample in the photos, which measures 8″ across.
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: Unimportant

Video Tutorial (sort of): If you have a hard time getting this pattern started, there is a video tutorial for my Wildflower Shoulder Bag that matches up with the first two rounds of petals in this pattern. Please note that after the 2nd round of petals, the video will no longer be applicable (but by then, you’ll probably have the hang of it anyway). View tutorial here.

Notes: 
- This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
- Rounds will alternate between increase rounds and petals. Increase rounds will be called “round 1, 2, 3” etc, and petal rounds will be referred to as “1^st round of petals, 2^nd round of petals,” etc. Because ch petal round shares its space with the increase round below it, they are not counted as part of the pattern’s total rounds.
- CH1 on the increase rounds does not count as a stitch.
- Be mindful that the pattern alternates in calling for FLO (Front Loops Only) and BLO (Back Loops Only).
- Each round of petals has 12 total petals. The first round of petals will cover 1 ST (of the previous round) per petal. The 2^nd round of petals will cover 2 STS per petal, the 3^rd round 3 STS, and so on. I’m giving you instructions up to 5 rounds of petals, but using this formula and a little imagination, you can make it even bigger.
THE PATTERN

Begin with a Magic Circle; CH1.

Round 1: 12 DC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (12)

1st Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. In same St, 2DC, CH2, SL ST. This is your first petal. (SL ST to next St. In same St, CH2, 2DC, CH2, SL ST to same St) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 2 (BLO – You’re now going to work around Round 1 again, this time working in the loop that you ignored during the first round of petals): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 1. CH1. 2DC in same ST. 2 DC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (24)

2nd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 3 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 2. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in next ST. (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (36)

3rd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 4 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 3. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (48)

4th Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. To complete flower, SL ST to 1^st BLO of Round 4. (12 petals)

Round 5 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 4. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in each of the next 3 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 3 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (60)

5th Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in each of the next 3 STS. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in each of the next 3 STS. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Fasten off and weave in ends, or keep adding increase rounds and petal rounds to make it even bigger!
May 9, 2016
Wildflower Dish Scrubby
Thank you to Red Heart for providing the yarn for this sample!

Not long ago, a really fun box of yarn from Red Heart landed on my doorstep. Included inside were two skeins of “Scrubby“, a yarn I’d seen online, but never in person. I couldn’t wait to get started playing with it! I came up with this cute little dish scrubby pattern in the shape of the wildflower that’s been so popular on the blog.

About the Yarn

Red Heart Scrubby is a #4 worsted weight, extremely textured polyester yarn. Thanks to that texture, it gets the gunk off your dishes with ease, and the polyester dries quicker than cotton. If you aren’t a fan of cotton crocheted dishcloths, this might be the perfect alternative!

Because of the texture, Scrubby isn’t as easy to crochet with as a typical worsted weight yarn. I was a little intimidated at first, but once I got going with it, I was fine. It takes a little concentration (and a lot of bright light!), but as long as you understand the different parts of a stitch and what to look for, you’ll get the hang of crocheting with Scrubby!

If you need a little extra help, check out this awesome help video from Marly Bird:

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

WILDFLOWER SCRUBBY

Hook: I (5.50mm)
Yarn: Red Heart Scrubby in two colors (< one ball of each). I used Grape (Color “A”) and Jelly (Color “B”).
Difficulty: Easyish (the yarn is a bit tricky at first!)
Gauge: Unimportant
Finished Size: Sample is 5.5″ wide

Notes: 
- This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
- Rounds will alternate between increase rounds and petals. Increase rounds will be called “round 1, 2, 3” etc, and petal rounds will be referred to as “1^st round of petals, 2^nd round of petals,” etc. Because ch petal round shares its space with the increase round below it, they are not counted as part of the pattern’s total rounds.
- CH1 on the increase rounds does not count as a stitch.
- Be mindful that the pattern alternates in calling for FLO (Front Loops Only) and BLO (Back Loops Only).
- This pattern is based off of my Neverending Wildflower. If you haven’t done this pattern before, it might be a good idea to try the pattern below with regular yarn before attempting it with Scrubby. If you need a little extra help, give this pattern a try (it has photo tutorials).
THE PATTERN

With Color A, begin with a Magic Circle; CH1.

Round 1: 12 DC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (12)

Switch to Color B.

1st Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (6 petals)

Switch to Color A.

Round 2 (BLO – You’re now going to work around Round 1 again, this time working in the loop that you ignored during the first round of petals): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 1. CH1. 2DC in same ST. 2 DC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (24)

2nd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Switch to Color B.

Round 3 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 2. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in next ST. (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (36)

3rd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2DC in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2DC in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.
May 3, 2016
Never Ending Wildflower – Nederlandse Vertaling

Click here to view this pattern in English.

Nederlandse vertaling gemaakt door Rita van Someren voor Summerday’s Creations.

Dit patroon mag niet in andere groepen, websites, blogs etc. gekopieerd of gedeeld worden.

THE NEVERENDING WILDFLOWER

Haaknaald: 5.00 mm of de juiste maat voor het garen wat u gekozen heeft.
Garen: het garen wat u kiest maakt niet uit, zolang als er de juiste haaknaald bij gekozen wordt. Ik heb 5.0 mm haaknaald gebruikt en wol garen, als te zien in de voorbeeld foto’s, wat ongeveer 20 cm is
Moeilijksheidsgraad: makkelijk
Proeflapje: niet belangrijk

Video Zelfstudie (soort van): Wanneer u moeite heeft om dit patroon te beginnen, er is een zelf studie video voor “My Wildflower Shoulder Bag” welke vergelijkbaar is met de de 1e twee ronden bloemblaadjes in dit patroon. Na deze 2 ronden van bloemblaadjes is deze video niet meer van toepassing (maar dan zult u het wel onder de knie hebben). Om het filmpje te zien, klik hier:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mHi_A413ms

Notities:

1. Dit patroon is origineel geschreven in American Standard Voorwaarden en bepaalde termen zijn in het nederlands aangepast. Ronden worden afgewisseld met meerderingen in rondes en bloemblaadjes. Meerdering in rondes zal genoemd worden “ronde 1, 2, 3” enz, en de bloemblaadjes rondes worden aangeduid als “1e ronde van bloemblaadjes, 2e ronde van bloemblaadjes,” enz.

2. Omdat L bloemblaadje ronde de ruimte deelt met de meerdering ronde eronder, worden ze niet als onderdeel van de totale patronen ronden geteld. 1L in de meerderingsronde telt niet als een steek.

3. Wees bewust dat het patroon afwisselt met FLO (alleen voorzijde lussen) en BLO (alleen achterzijde lussen). Elke ronde van bloemblaadjes heeft 12 totaal bloemblaadjes. De 1^e ronde van bloemblaadjes zal betrekking hebben op 1 ST (van de vorige ronde) per blaadje. De 2^e ronde van de bloemblaadjes dekt 2 STS per bloemblaadje, de 3e ronde 3 STS, en ga zo maar door. Ik geef u instructies tot 5 ronden van bloemblaadjes, maar met behulp van deze formule en een beetje fantasie, kan u het nog groter maken.

Afkortingen:

MR: magische ring
L: losse
ST: stokjes
HV: halve vaste
STS: steek, steken
FLO: voorste lus haken
BLO: achterste lus haken
DST: dubbel stokjeThe Pattern

HET PATROON

Begin met een mr; 1L.
Ronde 1: 12 stokjes in MR. Sluit met een HV in het 1e ST. (12)

1e Ronde bloemblaadje (FLO): 2L. In dezelfde steek STS, 2ST, 2L, HV. Dit is uw 1e blaadje. (HV naar volgende ST. In dezelfde ST, 2L, 2ST, 2L, HV in dezelfde ST) helemaal rond. HV naar de basis van 1e 2L. (12 blaadjes)
Zie de 1e foto op haar blog.

Ronde 2 (BLO – U gaat nu achter ronde 1 werken in de lussen die u in de 1e ronde oversloeg, dus in de achterste lussen): HV naar de 1^eachter lus van ronde 1. 1L. 2 ST in dezelfde STS. 2 ST in elke volgende sts. Sluit met een HV in 1^e ST. (24)

2e ronde bloemblaadje (FLO): 2L. ST in dezelfde STS. In volgende STS, ST, 2L, HV. (HV naar volgende STS, 2L, ST in dezelfde STS. In volgende STS, ST, 2L, HV) helemaal rond. HV naar de basis van 1e 2L. (12 blaadjes)

Ronde 3 (BLO): HV naar 1e achterlus van ronde 2. 1L. 2ST in dezelfde STS, ST in volgende STS. (2ST in volgende STS, ST in volgende STS) helemaal rond. Sluit met een HV in de 1e ST. (36)

3e ronde bloemblaadje (FLO): 2L. ST in dezelfde STS. 2DST in volgende STS. In volgende STS, ST, 2L, HV. (HV naar volgende STS, 2L, ST in dezelfde STS. 2DSTin volgende STS. In volgende STS, ST, 2L, HV) helemaal rond. HV naar de basis van 1e 2L. (12 blaadjes)

Ronde 4 (BLO): HV naar 1e achterste lus van ronde 3. 1L. 2ST in dezelfde STS, ST in elk van de volgende 2 STS. (2ST in volgende STS, ST in elk van de volgende 2 STS) helemaal rond. Sluit met een HV naar 1e ST. (48)

4e ronde bloemblaadje (FLO): 2L. ST in dezelfde STS. 2DST in volgende STS. 2 DST in volgende STS. In volgende STS, ST, 2L, HV. (HV naar STS, 2L, ST in dezelfde STS. 2DSTin volgende STS. 2 DST in volgende STS. In volgende STS, ST, 2L, HV) helemaal rond. HV naar basis van 1e 2L.

Om de bloem compleet te maken, HV naar 1e BLO van ronde 4. (12 blaadjes)

Ronde 5 (BLO): HV naar 1e achterste lus van ronde 4. 1L. 2ST in dezelfde STS, ST in elk van de volgende 3 STS. (2ST in volgende STS, ST in elk van de volgende 3 STS) helemaal rond. Sluit met een HV naar 1e ST. (60)

5e ronde bloemblaadje (FLO): 2L. ST in dezelfde STS. 2DST in elk van de volgende 3 STS. In volgende STS, ST, 2L, HV. (HV naar volgende STS, 2L, ST in volgende STS. 2DST in elk van de volgende 3 STS. In volgende STS, ST, 2L, HV) helemaal rond. HV naar basis van 1e 2L. (12 blaadjes)

Afhechten en draadjes wegwerken, of ga door met meerderingen van ronden en bloemblaadjes om het groter te maken!

Fouten in deze vertaling voorbehouden. Mocht u deze ontdekken, verzoek ik u vriendelijk contact op te nemen met Summerday’s Creations.

PATROON MACHTIGINGEN:

Dit is een gratis patroon en door het te gebruiken, gaat u akkoord met de volgende wettelijk beschermde condities.

U bent van harte welkom om uw eigen gemaakte creaties te verkopen; voor online aanbiedingen, u gelieve zicht terug te verbinden naar mijn blog met tekst zoiets als dit:

Patroon door
Little Monkeys Crochet
littlemonkeyscrochet.com

Dit zijn de “niet doen” voorwaarden:

-Verkoop het patroon niet, gewijzigd of in zijn oorspronkelijke vorm.

-Het patroon mag niet gekopieerd/ geplakt worden op uw eigen blog, in een Facebook-groep, of ergens anders. Gewoon een link naar deze pagina plaatsen. Iets verder dan dit is het auteursrecht diefstal. U bent van harte welkom om het patroon te kopiëren / plakken in een document en af te drukken, alleen voor persoonlijk gebruik.

-Gebruik geen van mijn foto’s van deze site (of een van mijn andere sites) om uzelf of uw haak bedrijf te promoten op uw eigen blog, Facebook-pagina, of ergens anders. De uitzondering hierop is als u mijn artikel link (s) wilt te delen op uw eigen blog; in dit geval, bent u van harte welkom om één foto per onderwerp te gebruiken zo lang als het gepaard gaat met een directe link naar mijn blog en geen enkel deel van het patroon zelf op uw site opneemt.

-Een vertaling van het patroon plaatsen waar dan ook – dit is het auteursrecht diefstal. Als u wilt om een vertaling beschikbaar te stellen,wil ik helpen en ben ik blij om het te publiceren op mijn blog met een link naar uw blog of haak-gerelateerde Facebook-pagina.

-Maak geen zelfstudie video van dit patroon (of een van mijn patronen). Voor een gedetailleerde uitleg over waarom dit pijn doet bij ontwerpers, neem dan contact met mij op.

April 18, 2016
Color Block Placemat

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for supplying the yarn for this sample!

Before we talk about this fabulous yarn, can we talk about this fabulous table!? My dad made it for me! Isn’t it gorgeous? I’ve wanted a farmhouse-style dining table for years and I can’t believe it’s mine! And the fact that my dad made it makes it infinitely more special than anything I could’ve found in a store. (He’s in the process of making some benches for it, but until then, try to look past the totally-not-matching-chairs from my previous table.)

I decided to make some placemats for it; you know, for when guests come over and we pretend that we’re classier than we really are. I’ve been wanting to try Lion Brand Yarn’s 24/7 Cotton, and I had a hunch that placemats might be just the right project. Have you seen the color choices for this yarn? Beautiful!

About the Yarn

24/7 Cotton is a #4 medium weight yarn, although I’d definitely put it on the lighter side of the #4 family. It’s 100% mercerized cotton, which means it’s been treated with a process that brings out its brightness and sheen and helps it withstand multiple washings without losing that sheen. It comes in 186-yard skeins in a range of 24 gorgeous colors, from striking brights to natural-looking neutrals. It produces a stiffish (that’s probably not a real word) fabric, has a great balance of sheen and stitch definition, and doesn’t split at all during use. I’ve been seriously impressed with Lion Brand’s recently released yarns, and 24/7 Cotton is really no exception.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

COLOR BLOCK PLACEMAT

Level: Easy

Size: 13″x18″ (standard placemat size)

Hook: G (4.25mm)

Yarn: About 75-80 yards per color block of #4 medium weight 100% mercerized cotton yarn. I used 24/7 Cotton (by Lion Brand) in color blocks of Lilac, White, Café Au Lait, and Ecru. (Helpful tip: 1 skein of each color will produce 2 placemats, but 2 skeins of each color will produce 5 placemats.)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Gauge: 10 rows of 10 SC = a 2.25″ square

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
With first color, CH 55.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (54)

Rows 2-17: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (54)

Row 18: CH1, turn. SC in first ST and in each ST across. (54)

Helpful tip: The SCs in Rows 18 & 19 help us to create a nice straight line where color blocks come together. If we didn’t add it, the color changes would have a more jagged edge.

Switch to a new color; fasten off previous color.

Row 19: CH1, turn. SC in first ST and in each ST across. (54)

Rows 20-35: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (54)

Row 36: CH1, turn. SC in first ST and in each ST across. (54)

For the two remaining color blocks: Switch to a new color and fasten off the previous color, then repeat Rows 19-36. (You will end with 4 color blocks totaling 72 rows.)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

April 17, 2016
Color Block Placemat – NEDERLANDSE VERTALING

Click here to view this pattern in English (American Standard).

Nederlandse vertaling gemaakt door Rita van Someren voor Haken voor Iedereen –

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1504090789893677/ en Summerday’s Creations – https://www.facebook.com/Summerdays-Creations-1676316205983717/

Deze vertaling mag niet in andere groepen, websites, blogs etc. gedeeld worden.

Het originele patroon is van : http://yarnandchai.com/color-block-placemat/

COLOR BLOCK PLACEMAT

Niveau: makkelijk

Afmeting: 33×45 cm

Haaknaald: 4.00-4.25mm

Garen: Ongeveer 32-36 meter per kleur blok van #4 middel gewicht 100% gemerceriseerde katoen garen. Aan te bevelen is Scheepjes Catona glans katoen 50 gram of de Cotton Quick 50 gram in diverse kleuren beide verkrijgbaar bij De Wolman. (Tip: met 1 bol van elke kleur kunt u ongeveer 2 placemats maken, met 2 bollen van elke kleur ongeveer 5 placemats, dit kan enigzins afwijken door het omrekenen.)

Ook nodig: Stopnaald of naald met stompe punt

Proeflapje: breedte 26 steken. op 10 cm hoogte 36 steken. op 10 cm (Scheepjes Catona)

Proeflapje: Breedte 24 steken op 10 cm Hoogte 30 steken op 10 cm (Cotton Quick)

Gebruikte Afkortingen:
ST (steek / steken
HV (Halve Vaste)
O (Overslaan)
L (lossen)
V (Vasten)
HST (half stokje)
V+HST (Vaste en half stokje in dezelfde steek)

Notitie:
(1) Dit patroon is origineel geschreven in Amerikaanse standaard termen en naar Nederlandse termen vertaald.
(2) De begin lossen gelden niet als steken.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Het begin:

Met wit 1e kleur, 55 L.

Rij 1: V in 2e ST vanaf de haaknaald en de overige ST. (54)

Rijen 2-17: 1 L, keren. HST in 1e ST. (O volgende ST, V+HST in volgende ST) doorgaan totdat er 1 ST overblijft. V in de overgebleven ST. (54)

Rij 18: 1 L, keren. V in 1e ST en in elke volgende ST. (54)

Tip: De V in rijen 18 & 19 geeft een rechte strakke lijn bij het wisselen van de kleuren. Als wij dit niet doen, geeft de kleur wisseling een gekartelde rand.

Ga verder met nieuwe kleur en hecht de vorige kleur af.

Rij 19: 1 L, keren. V in 1e ST en in elke volgende ST. (54)

Rijen 20-35: 1 L, keren. HST in 1e ST. (O volgende ST, V+HST in volgende ST) doorgaan totdat er 1 ST overblijft. V in de overgebleven ST. (54)

Rij 36: 1 L, keren. V in 1e ST en in elke volgende ST. (54)

Voor de 2 overgebleven blokken: Wissel naar nieuwe kleur en hecht de vorige kleur af, herhaal dan de rijen 19-36. (U eindigt dan met 4 kleur blokken en totaal 72 rijen.)

Hecht af en werk de draadjes weg.

April 17, 2016
Throw Pillow with Removable Flower Accents

Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

I love throw pillows! They’re so simple to make, and they add so much character to a couch or bed.

For this pillow, I used 220 Superwash from Cascade Yarns (in “Ridge Rock”). This is a popular yarn from Cascade, and it’s my first experience with it. I absolutely love it! It’s soft, but sturdy. It was perfect for the pillow, but would also be great for a hat or scarf. I love that the yarn is not dull-looking, but is still matte enough that it shows off stitch work wonderfully. Click here to see all of the beautiful colors available!

I decided to accent this pillow with a pop of color using three fabric flowers from Hobby Lobby:

The great thing about these flowers is that they’re actually hair clips; so they’re super easy to attach to the pillow, and are completely rearrangeable/removable. If my decor changes, I can simply find different fabric flower clips. So simple!

Enjoy this easy pattern!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

12″ THROW PILLOW (WITH REMOVABLE FLOWER ACCENTS)

Level: Easy

Size: Pattern will fit a standard 12″ throw pillow insert. (Instructions for adjusting the size are including in the Notes section.)

Hook: H (5.00mm)

Yarn: 310-320 yards of 220 Superwash from Cascade Yarns (sample shown in “Ridge Rock”). 220 Superwash is a #4 worsted weight yarn.

You’ll also need: 12″ throw pillow insert, yarn needle, fabric flower hair clips (optional)

Gauge: 8 rows of 12 SC = 3″ square

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) To make the pattern for a larger or smaller pillow, just make sure to begin with an odd number of chains. Your starting chain and first row, when gently stretched, should come just short of the seams of your insert pillow (keeping in mind that you’ll be adding a couple small rows of border at the end).

PATTERN (MAKE 2):

To begin: CH 45.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each CH across. (44)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (44)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44)
Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (44)
Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (44)
Row 7: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44)
Row 8: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44)
Rows 9-44: Repeat Rows 5-8. (44)

Edging: CH1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. You should have 44 SC on each side.

Sewing Sides Together:
Hold both sides together as you want them to be placed on the pillow. Join your yarn through both pieces, somewhere on the edge (I started in a corner). Ch1, then SC through the lined-up stitches from both pieces, seaming them together:

Continue around 3 sides of the pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Insert pillow. Continue to SC along the remaining side, enclosing the pillow completely. Join with a Sl St to the first SC of the round, fasten off and weave in ends.

Attach your flowers (optional). Done!

April 12, 2016
Providence Scarf

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

Have you seen Lion Brand’s new yarn, Shawl In A Ball?

Boasting the potential to create an entire stunning shawl with just one skein, it might be just now starting to show up at your local craft stores. (Or, you can purchase it direct from Lion Brand, or from Joann Fabrics in limited colors.) I had a chance to try it, and can I just say, wow.

I realize this is not a shawl, but I’ll get to that.

When I first held the yarn in my hands, I was really surprised that it was a category 4 (worsted) yarn. It really feels so much lighter.

The first thing I thought when I started working with it was, “wow, this is like a really thin version of Homespun.” Which freaked me out a little, because (honesty time) I’ve never successfully completed a pattern with Homespun. I love what people are able to make with it, but it’s just too difficult for me to see the stitches. Shawl In A Ball has that similar crinkly feel to it, so I decided to use a stitch combo that I was very familiar with to ensure I would be able to recognize the loops. Once I got past the first row, I really got the hang of it. It’s like anything new; you just have to give it a chance! And you will be soooo glad you did.

Ok, so I know it’s called Shawl In A Ball, but I’m not a shawl-wearer. So, I decided to take it in a little bit different direction, and used it to make this gorgeous infinity scarf. Aren’t you just drooling over those gradual color changes? I had so much fun making this and was so motivated to keep going because I was enjoying the color changes so much. And the finished look of the stitches creates this beautiful fabric that is light and drapes perfectly. I honestly think Lion Brand hit it out of the park with this yarn!

The scarf is wide, so it could be worn over the shoulders in more of a shawl or wrap fashion. My model here is very petite, so it was too large to hang secure on her shoulders, but I bunched it up in the back a bit to at least be able to show you what it would look like. You could simply measure the shoulder width of the intended recipient, and crochet enough rows to match that needed length. Or, you could secure it with a cute pin.

Of course, there are lots of beautiful colorways to choose from, and you’re bound to find one that suits your personality. The name of the color used in my sample is “Mindful Mauve.” If you can’t find it in stores yet, you can buy it from Joann Fabrics Online in limited colors (or, as always, you can get it direct from Lion Brand).

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PROVIDENCE SCARF

Size:  Scarf measures 40″ around and is 10″ tall (not including fringe).
Gauge:  Not crucial, because you can simply chain until you reach 10″. But, in my scarf, a row of 22 stitches is about 5″ in length (and 10 rows of the pattern are about 3″).
Hook: I (5.50mm)
Yarn: 1 skein of Lion Brand Shawl In A Ball (sample shown in “Mindful Mauve”)
You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:
CH (chain)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) It is crocheted as a flat piece, then seamed at the end.
(3) CH1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.
(4) Note that the yarn needed for the fringe is cut from the skein first, so that we can be sure to have enough. You’ll notice on my sample scarf that I alternated between two colors of fringe; this was accomplished because the first few yards of my skein were purple, but they were attached with a manufacturer’s knot to the rest of the skin, which started cream-colored (that was the only knot I found). So, I cut off the purple and set it aside, then cut off enough of the cream for the rest of the fringe, then proceeded to make the scarf. (In other words, I got lucky, and made lemonade out of lemons. Every skein will be different.)

FRINGE

Before we even pick up our hook, we first need to set aside some yarn. We’ll be using the whole skein for this pattern, so we want to make sure we have enough yarn left for fringe! Grab a cutting board or something sturdy that’s somewhere between 8-10″ wide, and follow the instructions below.

1. Wrap the yarn all the way around the cutting board about 40 times. Wrap it snug, but don’t wrap it crazy-tight. Try to be consistent.
2. Take a good pair of scissors and carefully cut the yarn right down the center of the pile.
3. You now have a pile of yarn strands approximately 18″ long. Very carefully, fold it in half and cut at the halfway point again. You should now have about 80 strands of yarn, about 9″ long apiece. Set it aside for when you’ve completed the pattern.

PATTERN

To begin:
CH45. (This should measure about 10″ when lightly stretched; add or subtract chains as necessary, just be sure to begin with an odd number of chains.)

Row 1: SC+HDC in 3rd CH from hook. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44)

Rows 2-132 (or until you get to the end of your skein, or until the scarf is the length you want it to be): CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44)

Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to seam the scarf. Use your yarn needle and finishing tail to whip stitch both ends together.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Attaching the Fringe

Attach fringe to every other row along the entire length of one side of the scarf.

March 29, 2016
Tabby Chic Cat Bed
If you follow me on social media, you know that we’ve recently added a very unlikely member to our family. And when I say “unlikely”, I mean that never in my life did I ever think I would own a cat. My older sister was allergic to them, so I never had one growing up; and, I have always been a big dog person. Like, literally, big dogs. Not cats. While I love animals of all kinds, I just never had an interest in owning a cat. So a month ago, if you’d told me I was going to be publishing a pattern for a cat bed, I would have given you a very strange look.

But, here we are!

And that’s all thanks to Simba, the little orange cat that coughed and sneezed his way into a permanent place in our family.

He came to us with a bad upper respiratory infection, ear mites, and eyes so red and gunky he couldn’t hardly open them after a nap. And I tried really hard to stay unattached. But this kitty is impossible not to love. When I was crocheting on the couch one morning not long after we brought him home, he came over, wrapped his paws around my arm, laid his head on me, and fell asleep; and that’s pretty much how he is all the time — cuddly and sweet, and just wanting to be with people. When we didn’t receive any leads on our “lost kitty” posts for a week, I finally admitted to myself that even though I’ve never been a cat person, I really wanted to be his person. And we decided to keep him.

A few days after that decision, I hosted our church’s Women’s Life Group at my home as I do every week. One of the women who attends owns a large horse farm a few miles from our church (where my husband found Simba), and the moment she saw him, she immediately recognized him as one of her barn kitties that had been missing for a while. My heart sank. But when I told her we’d give him back (after all, my children had known from the beginning that his owners might show up), this wonderful woman didn’t even hesitate to say “No, he’s yours. I think he chose your family. God meant him for you.”

And that’s the story of how Simba chose our family!

Of course, I decided pretty early on that I needed to make him something. I thought a bed would be the perfect thing, and I wanted it to have a rustic look to it, so I headed to Michaels to find a thick, rustic yarn, and Loops & Threads Chunky was the perfect fit. I also designed a cute little tag for it and ordered the finished item from MemorableLand on Etsy. Dmitry did a wonderful job putting my vision on these wooden tags!

–

About the Rescued Tag

Now, I guess Simba isn’t technically a rescue pet. We now know where he came from, and had we not wanted him, he would have been welcomed back to his farm with open arms. But I had ordered these wooden tags from MemorableLand before we had that information… and given the fact that I was in a bit of a rough patch when this little kitty came into our lives, it’s safe to say that Simba sort of “rescued” me out of the funk that I was in. Anyone who has a pet knows how healing they can be for the soul, and Simba has most definitely been that for me over the past few weeks!

The word “Rescued” holds a lot of meaning for me, in more ways than one; it’s also a meaningful reminder of how Christ rescued me, and that’s a wonderful thing to be reminded of, especially as we celebrate Easter this weekend!

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TABBY CHIC CAT BED

Level: Easyish

Size: 17″ wide x 5″ tall

Materials:
- S hook (19.00mm) – and YES, I really did use an S hook, and that really is an S hook in the photos. I have a very tight tension. If you don’t, you should use a smaller hook.
- Yarn needle
- Approximately 140 yards of Loops & Threads Chunky (<6 skeins). Sample shown in “Oatmeal” (currently sold out online, but my store had plenty). Loops & Threads Chunky is a #6 super bulky yarn, HOWEVER, if you are substituting, I would strongly recommend using a #7 Jumbo yarn. (The yarn I used really should be classified as a #7, as it’s significantly thicker than any #6 yarn I’ve ever used.)
- Stitch marker or bobby pin
Gauge:
Your first 4 rounds should measure 7″ across.

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
CH (chain)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. Instead of putting your HDC in the top loops, reach your hook past the back loop where you’ll find a 3rd loop on the side of the stitch. Insert your hook there to create your HDC. This forces both of the top loops to rest on the front of your project, creating a ribbing effect. In other patterns it is also referred to as a Camel Stitch or RibHDC.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) This pattern is worked mostly in a seamless round. At Round 10, you will chain and turn, and then continue on in a seamless round in the opposite direction. This is all noted in the pattern.
(3) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.

How To Make It Larger:
It’s relatively simple, so hopefully my explanation won’t sound toocomplicated. What you’ll want to do is continue increasing your base until it’s about 1-2 inches smaller than the size you want the bed to be. On the very last repeat of the last round you did, use SC instead of HDC for all but the last two stitches; use slip stitches for the final two stitches. (This is the equivalent of Round 9 in the pattern.) So for instance, if you did 10 increase rounds, your 10th round would be:

(2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 8 STS) 7 times. 2 SC in next, 1 SC in each of the next 6 STS, 1 SL ST in each of the next 2 STS. (80)

Then, CH1 and turn, and do a final increase round in HDC (this is the equivalent of Round 10 in the pattern). Continue on with Round 11 and follow the pattern as written (your stitch counts will be different).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using S Hook, make a magic circle.

Round 1: CH1. 8 HDC in MC. (8)

Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around. (16)

Round 3: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around. (24)

Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (32)

Round 5: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (40)

Round 6: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (48)

Round 7: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (56)

Round 8: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 6 STS) around. (64)

Round 9: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 7 STS) 7 times. 2 SC in next, 1 SC in each of the next 5 STS, 1 SL ST in each of the next 2 STS. (72)

Note: The end of round 9 should smooth down your round to blend in, instead of ending with the jagged edge that working a seamless round causes. This will enable us to chain up in the next round, turn our work, and begin working seamlessly in the other direction.

Round 10: CH1, turn your work. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 8 STS) around. Do not join. (80)

Rounds 11-14: In 3rd loops, HDC in each ST around. (80)

Round 15: In 3rd loops, SC in each of the next 75 STS. SL ST in 3rd loops of each of the next 5 STS. (80)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.
March 26, 2016
Marion Slouch
Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for supplying the yarn for this sample!

If you’ve spent any time around my blog, you know how much I loooooove slouch hats. I just can’t get enough of them. I never considered myself a hat person until I created and tried on my first slouchy hat, but from that moment on, I was hooked.

Today, I’m adding another slouchy pattern to my growing collection!

This one is sort of a “sister hat” to the South Haven Slouch. It uses the same basic structure, but I’ve added some cute new detailing between the ribbing sections to create a very different finished look.

For the sample, I used Lion Brand’s LB Collection 100% Superwash Merino Wool in “Cherry”. I love this yarn. It’s only available on Lion Brand’s web site or in their stores, but it’s so worth ordering. It’s the same yarn I used for this gorgeous cowl.

I tried to photograph the hat from a few different angles to really give you a sense of the finished look. Here’s what it looks like from the (angled) front:

And here’s the back. Like the South Haven Slouch, this one has a rippled top that gives it a faux-cinched look.

So grab your hooks and yarn, and let’s get started!

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THE MARION SLOUCH HAT

Level: Easyish (technically closer to intermediate, but if you’re a confident crocheter and comfortable with reading patterns, you canpull this off!)

Size:
One Size Fits Most (Teen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 10” across at band, and is 9” tall. I like just a little bit of slouch in my slouch hats, but if you like more, you can add rounds to the body of the hat.

Materials:
- H hook (5.00mm) and G hook (4.25mm)
- Yarn needle
- 240-250 yards of Lion Brand LB Collection 100% Superwash Merino Wool. The color in the photos is Cherry.
- Stitch marker or bobby pin (optional, but super helpful)
Gauge:
With H hook, 7 rows of 9HDC = 2″ square

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
CH (chain)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SK (skip)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
SC2TOG (single crochet 2 together)
RibHDC (also known as Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC; see Special Terminology, below)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. Instead of putting your HDC in the top loops, reach your hook past the back loop where you’ll find a 3rd loop on the side of the stitch. Insert your hook there to create your HDC. This forces both of the top loops to rest on the front of your project, creating a ribbing effect. In other patterns it is also referred to as a Camel Stitch or RibHDC.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in joined rounds. You will turn at the beginning of some rounds, and not others. Pay attention!
(3) Even though this pattern is worked in joined rounds, it is recommended that you keep a stitch marker or two handy. I found that placing a stitch marker in the first and last stitches of my rounds really helped me to not get confused about my starting and ending stitches. When working back and forth between regular loops and 3rd loops (beginning on Round 7), it can be hard to tell which stitch is technically your last stitch of the round… and, when we start turning our rounds during the SC+HDC texture in Round 11, it’s just easier to keep track of where to place your stitches.
(4) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(5) It goes without saying, but count your stitches! Once you’re done increasing, you should consistently have 100 stitches per round (until you get to the band).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using H Hook, make a magic circle.

Round 1: CH1. 10 HDC in MC. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (10)

Round 2: CH1. 2 HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (20)

Round 3: CH1. 2 HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (40)

Note: At this point you should have a floppy-looking circle. This is a good thing. It will continue to get floppier as we increase, and then it will smooth itself out on the body of the hat. That’s how we create the cinched look on the top.

Round 4: CH1. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (60)

Round 5: CH1. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (80)

Round 6: CH1. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 7: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 8: CH1. HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 9: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 10: CH1. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Note: Joining and turning while working in the round is something you don’t see very often in patterns, and that little slip stitch at the end of the round can really throw you off because when you turn, it looks like a stitch… but it’s not, and needs to be ignored. This is where using a stitch marker will really come in handy. Just before you SL ST to the first SC in Round 10, mark your final stitch of the round with a stitch marker (1st photo). Then do your join (2nd photo). When you move on to Round 11, CH1 and turn as per the instructions (3rd photo). When instructed to SK the first ST, you’ll know to skip right over the stitch marker and do your first SC+HDC in the stitch immediately following it (4th photo).

Rounds 11-13: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 14: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 15: CH1, do not turn. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 16: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 17: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 18: CH1. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Rounds 19-21: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 22: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 23: CH1, do not turn. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 24: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 25: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 26: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 27: CH1. (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 8 STS) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (90)

Round 28: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (90)

Switch to G hook.

Rounds 29-38: SC around.

Note: At some point around Round 33, you may want to check the band of the hat to see if it’s measuring about 10 inches. If it’s measuring much bigger than that, you may want to grab a smaller hook to finish things off.

Smooth out the round by slip stitching into the first 3 STS of the next round. Fasten off and weave in ends.
February 25, 2016
Comfy Squares Color Block Cowl

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for supplying the yarn for this sample!

I know, I know. This one looks familiar. I already used this stitch on a cowl, so what am I doing releasing the same pattern again?

But it’s not the same pattern!

I’ve said it many times — when I find a stitch I love, I get really fixated on it. This has been one of those stitches. So far I’ve made that other cowl, boot cuffs, and a gorgeous rustic-modern blanket.

So for this cowl, I decided that I really wanted it in a color-blocked style. I had my eye on some yarn from Lion Brand’s LB Collection, called 100% Superwash Merino, that I wanted to use. The problem with that other cowl is that I worked it in vertical rows instead of horizontal, so I couldn’t have achieved the color-blocked look with that pattern. So, I decided to write up a similar-but-different pattern, working it in horizontal rows this time. I love how it turned out!

About the Yarn

I don’t wear a lot of bright colors; I’m most comfortable in blacks and grays. (I’m not a sad person, I promise. I just find gray very cozy.) But I have been trying to inject a little color into my wardrobe lately, and my favorite color to pair with classic gray is deep purple. 100% Superwash Merino Yarn from the LB Collection is a really pretty lightweight (#3) yarn that has a nice array of colors to choose from. I chose Wisteria, Charcoal, and Purple for my cowl. The yarn itself was a pleasure to work with. There was virtually no splitting (yay!) and it showed of the stitches really nicely. LB Collection Yarn is only available online at lionbrand.com, their studio in NYC, their outlet in New Jersey, or in the Lion Design catalog. (In other words, you won’t find it at the big craft stores or in your local yarn shop.)

If you’re thinking about using 100% Superwash Merino from Lion Brand in your own cowl, here are a few color schemes I put together that you might like:

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COMFY SQUARES COLOR BLOCK COWL

Level: Easy

Size: Cowl measures 28″ wide by 14.5″ tall before seaming.*
*It should probably be noted here that while most of my patterns are modeled on real people, this one is staged on a standard sized jewelry bust that you find at craft stores, which is only about 10″ wide at the shoulders. Keep this in mind when you decide whether or not to adjust the pattern, because if you want it to look as full on you as it does in the photo, you’ll want to increase your starting chain (just keep it an odd number). The good news is, if you use the recommended yarn, you’ll have plenty of yarn in your skeins to do it.

Hook: H (5.00mm)

Yarn: LB Collection 100% Superwash Merino (#3 light yarn) in 3 colors. You will need 170 yards each of the bottom two colors, and 205 yards of the top color (it uses more because of the ribbing at the top).

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Gauge: A row of 18SC = about 4″ in length.

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
FPDC (front post double crochet)
BPDC (back post double crochet)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(3) To adjust the width of your cowl, add or subtract from your starting CH (just begin with an odd number of CHs). To adjust the length of your blanket, add or subtract an even number of rows to/from each color block.
(4) Cowl is worked from the bottom up, so keep this in mind when choosing the order of colors you work with.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
With first color, CH125.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC across. (124)

Rows 2-21: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (124)

Row 22: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (124)

Helpful tip: The SCs in Rows 22 & 23 help us to create a nice straight line where color blocks come together. If we didn’t add it, the color changes would have a more jagged edge.

Switch to a new color; fasten off previous color, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Row 23: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (124)

Rows 24-43: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (124)

Row 44: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (124)

Switch to a new color; fasten off previous color, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Row 45: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (124)

Rows 46-59: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (124)

Row 60: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (124)

Row 61: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (124)

Rows 62-67: CH1, turn. FPDC in first ST, BPDC in next ST. (FPDC in next ST, BPDC in next ST) across.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Leaving your 3 long tails alone (there should be one of each color), weave in all other tails to get them out of the way.

Seaming
Lay your cowl flat, then bring the sides together and match up the color blocks. Use a yarn needle to sew each color block closed with its matching yarn tail. Weave in all ends.

January 25, 2016