Author: rebecca

Macchiato Slouch Hat
© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Thank you to Lion Brand for providing the yarn for this pattern sample!

I’ve always had a picture in my head of a slouch hat that I wanted to create, that had a very slooooooooow, graaaaaadual color change. I looked into the possibility of dip-dying the finished hat, but it looked like more effort than it was worth. (Plus, I’m lazy.) Then, just recently, I found out about Lion Brand’s new yarn – Scarfie! As soon as I saw it, I knew it was The One. The perfect yarn for the hat I wanted to create.

Click the photo to view Lion Brand Scarfie yarn on Craftsy!

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About the Yarn

Each skein of Scarfie has very gradual color changes between two colors. I immediately gravitated to the Cream/Taupe, because, well, I’m a sucker for a good taupe color. Each skein has 312 yards of bulky weight yarn, so you’ve got plenty to make a beautiful, somewhat-ombre-style scarf.

But we’re not making a scarf today.

Nope, today we’re going to use that beautiful Scarfie yarn to make a hat! Sometimes, you just gotta do the unexpected. 🙂

This pattern is a very simple slouch pattern. But paired with the gorgeous gradual color changes of Scarfie, it becomes completely unique! It just goes to show you how yarn choice can make all the difference.

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About the Name

I named this pattern the “Macchiato Slouch” because the combination of the yarn color and the gradual fade made me think back to my days as a barista. One of my favorite drinks was an iced caramel macchiato — vanilla syrup, milk, and a couple shots of espresso and caramel drizzle to mark the top (macchiato means marked in Italian). So instead of the espresso instantly mixing with milk, as it would in a latte, the espresso sits on top of it until it sloooooowly blends in from the top-down. Now, the next time you to go your local coffee shop, you can wow them with your knowledge… and with your new hat!

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MACCHIATO SLOUCH HAT

Level: Easy

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 9.5” across at band, and is 9” tall.

Materials:
- N hook (9.00mm) and I hook (5.50mm)
- Yarn needle
- Lion Brand Scarfie Yarn (I used Cream/Taupe), about 140 yards, which is less than half a skein – so you can make two! (Scarfie is a bulky weight yarn.)
- Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)
- Button (1-1.5″) and tools to attach it
Gauge:
With N hook, 7HDC = 3″

Stitches Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
CH (chain)
SS (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)

Notes:

(1) This hat is worked in a continuous spiral until the band. Do not join, chain or turn until instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
(2) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(3) The button and button flap on this hat are just decorative (they don’t actually function). There is no buttonhole, and at the end, we’ll just sew everything neatly in place.

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To begin:
Using N Hook, make a magic circle.

Round 1: 10 HDC in MC (10)

Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around (20)

Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around (40)

Note: At this point, it’s going to start looking wavy. You’re doing it right! The back of the hat has a faux-cinched look to it, and this is how we achieve it. Once you get to the body of the hat, it will start to straighten itself out naturally.

Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (60)

Rounds 5-15: HDC around (60)

Switch to I hook.

Round 16: SC around (60). CH7.

From this point on, we will be working in turned rounds. We still won’t be joining.

Round 17: Turn your work. Working down the back side of the CH7, SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH, then continue to SC around the hat (you’re now crocheting in the opposite direction as the previous round) until you reach the beginning again. (66)

Rounds 18-22: CH1, turn. SC around. (66)

Edging: CH1. SC around the entire band of the hat, including the button flap, putting (SC,CH1,SC) in each corner.

Fasten off, leaving a 12″ tail. Use the tail to gently sew the button flap in place, then weave in all ends securely. Attach decorative button in place with yarn or a needle and thread.
October 6, 2015
Ribbed Cinched Ear Warmer
© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Thank you to Lion Brand for providing the yarn for this pattern sample.

As far as social media is concerned, my Cinched Ear Warmer has been one of my top all-time most popular patterns. It’s one of my earlier ones, and when I made it, I knew there were so many options for changing it up. I just never got around to it until now! This new version begins with the same cinched style, but a ribbing stitch gives it a unique look.

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The Yarn

I use Heartland in a lot of my patterns because I love everything about it – the weight (it’s worsted, but feels light), the colors (I’m a sucker for natural hues) and the sheen (not too shiny, not too dull). After the first sample, I decided that this pattern might look awesome in two colors. I didn’t want it to look striped so much as two-toned, so I chose two colors that were pretty close in shade – “Katmai” and “Grand Canyon”. Click here to view the full range of colors available.

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RIBBED CINCHED EARWARMER

Level: Easy

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Earwarmer measures 18” around, and is 3” wide.

Materials:
- H hook (5.00mm)
- About 60 yards of Lion Brand Heartland* (Samples are shown in Glacier Bay and Katmai/Grand Canyon)
  *About Heartland:
  Weight: #4 worsted
  Fiber: 100% Acrylic
  Yardage: 5oz/142g (251yd/230m)
  Gauge: 12 sc + 15 rows = 4 inches on size J-10 [6 mm] hook
- Yarn needle
Gauge:
With H hook, 4 HDC = 1″

Stitches Used:
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
FHDC (foundation half double crochet – click here for a tutorial)
RibHDC (also known as Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC; see Special Stitch, below)

Special Stitch:
RibHDC – instead of putting your HDC in the top loops, find the 3rd loop. Because we’re working in turned rows, the third loop will be located just underneath the front loop. Insert your hook there and create your HDC. This forces both of the top loops to rest on the front of your project, creating a ribbing effect. It is also referred to as a Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC. (Confused? You can view a photo tutorial here.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) Starting chains do not count as stitches.
(3) This pattern is easily adjusted to any head size. 68 STS was perfect for me, but you might want to wrap the first round around your head as you go to get the perfect fit for you.
(4) For the tan-colored sample in the photos, I actually used two different colors of Heartland (Katmai and Grand Canyon). I switched colors every other row, and carried my yarn instead of fastening it off each time.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

With H hook,

Round 1: FHDC 68. Join to the first FHDC with a slip stitch, being careful not to twist the row.
(Or, if you don’t like the Foundation Chain method, just CH 69, HDC in second CH from hook and HDC across.)

Round 2: CH1, turn. RibHDC around. Join with a SL ST to first RibHDC. (68)

Rounds 3-12: Repeat Round 2.

Cut your yarn, leaving about a 12″ tail, and finish off but don’t weave in the tail. Use your yarn needle to sew up the first round of FDCs, then weave in that tail and cut.

To Cinch:
Please note that the photos below are taken from my original Cinched EarWarmer pattern, so the pattern looks slightly different, but it’s the same concept.)

1. Thread the long tail through your yarn needle. Gather the seamed section of the headband, and fold in half so that the fold is facing you.

2. Bring either side up to the top of the fold and hold secure with your fingers.

3. Run your yarn needle through all three sections of gathered material. The closer you get to the surface, the better your cinch will look; so I run mine right under the top loops of the outer sections, and under just a few strands of the center fold.

4. Wrap the yarn around the underside of the cinch, then through the sections again. Do this a few times to secure the cinch, then tie off underneath and weave in the tail.
September 30, 2015
Deliciously Simple Apple Crisp
Happy First Day of Fall! I’m celebrating with a new pattern release, the Apple Crisp Cowl. (Yep — if you’ve discovered me via the recipe, I should probably disclose now that I’m a crochet blogger.)

My little monkeys and I have a tradition of making apple crisp on the first day of our favorite season, and I thought I’d share my personal recipe with you! It’s super easy, which makes it the perfect kid-friendly recipe to make with your own little monkeys. And since I’m not a food blogger, I’m going to skip the dozen step-by-step photos and just give you the recipe. 🙂

Deliciously Simple Apple Crisp

Servings: 9 | Prep Time: 10 Minutes | Cook Time: 45 minutes

Ingredients

Apple Filling
- 4 medium or large apples
- 3/4 cup water
Topping
- 1/2 of an 18.25oz butter-flavored cake mix
- 1/3 cup brown sugar
- 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
- 1/8 tsp ground nutmeg (optional)
- 1/2 cup quick-cooking oats
- 1/4 cup real butter, melted
Instructions

1. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees (f). Grease the bottom of an 8×8 or 9×9 pan.

2. Peel, core and slice your apples, and spread them out evenly on the bottom of your pan. Pour the water over the top.

3. In a mixing bowl, mix together the dry topping ingredients, then add the melted butter and mix again.

4. Grab a spoon and eat a bite or two. No one will know.

5. Crumble the mixture over the top of your apples. Put the pan in on the center rack of the preheated oven for about 45 minutes. Apple crisp is done when the topping has a nice golden brown coloring. Remove from oven and let cool for a bit, then serve with ice cream if desired.
September 22, 2015
Apple Crisp Cowl
Fall is HERE! It’s time for sweaters, hayrides, pumpkins and apple-pie-scented-candles. This has always been my favorite time of the year, and I do my best to indulge in as many fall-related activities as I possibly can. Because as we all know (well, at least those of us who live in the Midwest, USA), this season goes waaaaaaaaaaay too fast.

My little monkeys and I have a tradition that actually goes back to before they were born. On the first day of fall, I always celebrate by making apple crisp. Now that they’re old enough, my boys have joined in on this little ritual.

Click here to view my Homemade Apple Crisp recipe!

This year is the first year that my oldest monkey is in school all day, and also the first year that my youngest monkey is in preschool for the mornings. So while I wait for them to get home for our apple-crisp-making party, I’m celebrating the first day of fall in another way, too… with a new pattern release!

The Apple Crisp Cowl is actually a mixture of two other patterns: the Sparkly Buttoned Cowl, and the Maribel Cowl. I love my Sparkly Buttoned Cowl, but it’s pretty fancy-looking, especially with the metallic yarn I used. I love the way it’s shaped though, so I wanted to come up with a more casual version of the same cowl style. I also love the ribbing on the Maribel Cowl, so I started there. And the Apple Crisp Cowl was born.

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This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

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APPLE CRISP COWL

Level: Easy

Size:
Approximately 30″ long by 11″ tall

Materials:
- I hook (5.50mm) and K hook (6.50mm)
- Yarn needle
- Approximately 350-360 yards of your favorite worsted weight yarn – such as Vanna’s Choice
- Two buttons, approximately 1″
Gauge:
With I hook, 4HDC = 1″

Stitches Used:
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
FHDC (Foundation Half Double Crochet; view tutorial here)
RibHDC (also known as Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC; view tutorial here)
SK (Skip)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) This pattern calls for two different sizes of crochet hooks. A larger hook is used on the top edge to keep it from pulling, because of the way that the cowl is constructed. Hook change is noted in the pattern.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Using I hook:

Row 1: FHDC 38. (View a tutorial here… or if Foundation Stitches are not your cup o’ cider, you can also CH39, then HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH.)

Row 2: CH1, turn. RibHDC across. (38)

Rows 3-83 (or until it measures about 30″ in length): Repeat Row 2. (38)

Switch to K hook.

Row 84: CH1, DO NOT TURN. SC in same ST (the last ST from Row 83). SC evenly down the long edge of your project. (83)

Rows 85-87: CH1, turn. SC across. (83)

Row 88 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS, SC in next. SC the rest of the way across. (83, counting CH2)

Row 89: CH1, turn. SC across, putting 2SC in the CH2 buttonhole space from the previous row.

Rows 90-91: CH1, turn. SC across.

Edging: CH1, do not turn. SC around the entire piece, putting (SC, CH1, SC) in each corner.

Buttons: Lay your scarf flat, with the buttonhole at the top left corner. Your first button should be sewn 1 inch (both sides) from the bottom right corner; your second button should be sewn 6 inches from the right edge, 1 inch from the bottom edge (in line with the first button).

TO WEAR:

It can feel a bit tricky at first! Start by putting it around your neck with the buttonhole on your left, and the SC rows at the top. The button that is NOT in the corner is the button that will go through the buttonhole. Once you’ve joined those together, you can slip the corner button through whichever part of the scarf you want to achieve your desired look. If you need a little extra help, watch this video of the Sparkly Buttoned Cowl (it’s the same type of cowl):
September 22, 2015
South Haven Slouch
A few weeks ago, our family had the opportunity to go to one of my favorite little spots in Michigan for a week. South Haven, on Lake Michigan, is an adorable town full of good food, cute shops, and AMAZING views. I used to come here as a teen with my youth group, so I have a lot of memories of swimming at the beach and walking down to the lighthouse. Now, during our first real vacation as a family (and really, our first real vacation as a couple since our honeymoon 8 years ago), we were able to make tons of new memories. It was a great week!

This was my view…

…for pretty much the entire week.

When we weren’t hanging out at the beach, we were wandering around downtown (usually hunting for a new ice cream parlor or coffee shop to try). But I was super excited when I saw this yarn store, “Needle in a Haystack.” (Edit: This cute little store has closed its doors.) The owner was sweet and friendly, and we had a great conversation about selling online while I perused the shelves of gorgeous yarns.

After staring at yarn for an eternity, I finally settled on this skein of Longwood Sport 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool.

I don’t know about you, but I tend to buy all of my yarn from the big craft stores in my town. It’s great to have them nearby, but it really limits you as far as yarn goes. That’s why I think it’s important as a crocheter, and especially as a designer, to visit out-of-town yarn shops when you get the chance. I’ve never worked with anything from Cascade Yarns before, but I think I might be in love now.

This particular yarn came in a range of stunning, natural colors (hence the eternity it took me to pick one). It’s SO soft, but it really holds its shape well. I took it down to the beach with me and stared at it for a little while, squished it in my hands (I love squishy yarn), and pretty soon I knew what it was going to become.

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SOUTH HAVEN SLOUCH

Level: Easy

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 10” across at band, and is 9” tall. I like just a little bit of slouch in my slouch hats, but if you like more, you can add rounds to the body of the hat, or make the band of the hat wider, too.

Materials:
- H hook (5.00mm) and G hook (4.25mm)
- Yarn needle
- 260-270 yards of Cascade Yarns Longwood Sport (that’s a little less than one skein). The color in the photos is Midnight Blue.
  *About Longwood Sport:
  Weight: #3 light
  Fiber: 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool
  Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 273 yds (250 m)
  Gauge: 22-24 sts = 4″ (10 cm), US 5-6 (3.75-4.0mm)
- Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)
Gauge:
With H hook, 7 rows of 9HDC = 2″ square

Stitches Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
CH (chain)
SS (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC2TOG (Single Crochet 2 Together)
RibHDC (also known as Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC; see Special Stitch, below)

Special Stitch:
RibHDC – instead of putting your HDC in the top loops, reach your hook past the back loop where you’ll find a 3rd loop on the side of the stitch. Insert your hook there to create your HDC. This forces both of the top loops to rest on the front of your project, creating a ribbing effect. It is also referred to as a Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC.

Notes:
(1) This hat is worked in a continuous spiral. Do not join at the end of each round and do not chain at the beginning of rounds unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the last stitch of each round.
(2) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using H Hook, make a magic circle.

Round 1: 10 HDC in MC (10)

Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around (20)

Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around (40)

Note: At this point you should have a floppy-looking circle. This is a good thing. It will continue to get floppier as we increase, and then it will smooth itself out on the body of the hat. That’s how we create the cinched look on the top.

Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (60)

Round 5: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 STS) around (80)

Round 6: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 3 STS) around (100)

Round 7: RibHDC around. (100)

Round 8: HDC around. (100)

Round 9: RibHDC around. (100)

Rounds 10-13: HDC around. (100)

Round 14: RibHDC around. (100)

Round 15: HDC around. (100)

Round 16: RibHDC around. (100)

Rounds 17-20: HDC around. (100)

Round 21: RibHDC around. (100)

Round 22: HDC around. (100)

Round 23: RibHDC around. (100)

Round 24: HDC around. (100)

Note: If you want a little more slouch in your hat, this would be a good place to add some extra rounds of HDC.

Round 25: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 8 STS) around. (90)

Round 26: SC around. (90)

Switch to G hook.

Rounds 27-35: SC around. (90)

Smooth out the round by slip stitching into the first 3 STS of the next round. Fasten off and weave in ends.
September 7, 2015
How to Figure Out the Yardage of a Finished Project

Have you ever found yourself needing to know how much yarn (in yards) you used in your crochet or knitting project? This number might come in handy if you’re a seller, and wanting to keep good track of inventory and cost (for instance, how many scarves you can make and sell from those 20 skeins of yarn you just bought at the big sale). You can check the pattern designer’s notes for an estimate, but what if you use a different yarn than she did, or your tension is a bit different than hers? What if you didn’t even use a pattern? As a designer, the total yardage of a project is a number I have to figure out every time. It’s crucial info for you, my readers, so that you know how much yarn to buy to make my patterns.

Figuring it out might seem complicated (am I supposed to measure all the yarn left in the skein on a yardstick or something?) …and not worth the effort.

Lucky for us, it’s not that complicated at all. In fact, it’s pretty simple! I’m kind of a math nerd, so I made a fun little chart that will walk you through the process, step-by-step!

Figuring out the total yards used in a project is actually quite simple. You just need your finished project, a calculator, a scale that weighs in ounces or grams (a food scale or a postage scale will work), and the information on the label of the skein you used (or if you’re like me and threw it away early on in the project, you can look up the yarn’s stats on the company’s web site). Using the diagram below, follow the directions to quickly find your answer. (If you aren’t a fellow math nerd, don’t let the diagram scare you away. Just follow the directions. It’s easy, I promise.)

So, let’s walk through this with an example. I’ll use a new slouch hat pattern that I just finished my sample for.

Step 1: Fill in the info for the pink and blue boxes. According to my food scale, the hat weighs 2.3 oz, so I’ll plug that into the pink box on the bottom left. I also have the skein’s label right in front of me, which tells me that one full skein of the yarn I used has 312 total yards (pink box on the top right), and it weighs 5.3oz (blue box). Here’s what I have so far:

Step 2: Multiply the numbers in the pink boxes together. 2.3 x 312 = 717.6

Step 3: Take the total from step 2, and divide it by the number in the blue box. 717.6 / 5.3 = 135.4

Step 4: My total yardage for the slouch hat is about 135 yards! (As a designer, I always add a bit so that if someone is really cutting it close, and their gauge is slightly more loose, they won’t run out of yarn at the very end. So for this pattern I’ll probably recommend 140-150 yards of the suggested yarn.)

Easy peasy, lemon squeezy (as my 5 year old would say)!

August 25, 2015
Mobile Device Cover

After the success of the Wildflower Shoulder Bag pattern, I wanted to design a quick pattern to match it that would work as a tablet or iPad cover. I designed this for a standard iPad, but it’s easy to adapt it to the size of your particular device, without doing too much reworking. You could even modify it to be used as a cover for your cell phone!

As with the Wildflower Shoulder Bag, I used Lion Brand’s Cotton-Ease yarn for this project. (I want to thank Lion Brand for providing the yarn for my sample.) I have really come to love this yarn! It doesn’t fuzz, it’s soft yet durable, and it really shows off stitch work.

(Edit: This yarn has since been discontinued.)

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MOBILE DEVICE COVER

Hook: H (5.00mm)
Yarn: About 140 yards of Lion Brand Cotton-Ease (I used “stone”)
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: 7″ wide x 9.5″ tall
Gauge: 9 rows of 7 SC = 2″ square
You’ll also need: 1 button, plus tools to attach it, and a stitch marker

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) The pattern is sized for a standard iPad. Hints for adjusting the size are included in the pattern, in blue.
(3) This pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round. Do not join or turn unless instructed to do so. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of your rounds.

PATTERN:

To begin:
Ch 25. (This is the length of the smallest side of your device, plus half an inch. Any odd number of chains will work.)

Round 1: 3SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in each of the next 22 CHs. 3SC in last CH, working around the tail to the other side. Coming over to the other side, SC in each of the next 22 CHs. (50)

Rounds 2-3: SC in each ST around. (50)

Round 4: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (50)

Rounds 5-22 (or until your height is about 2-2.5″ shorter than the height of your device): Repeat Round 4.

Rounds 23-30 (or until your height is about half an inch shorter than the height of your device): SC in each ST around. (50)

Round 31: Now we’re going to form the button closure. Using a bobby pin or stitch marker, lay the project flat and mark the centermost stitch of the last round. SC in each ST until you reach your marked stitch; SL ST to the marked ST. CH 12 (or however many you’ll need to wrap it around the button you chose). SL ST to the same ST to close the loop. SC in each remaining ST around.

Round 32: SC in each ST around. (Ignore the CH12 loop; just fold it down out of your way.)

To Finish: SL ST into the first 3 STS of the next round to even out the edge.

Fasten off and weave in ends. Attach your button on the opposite side from the button loop.

August 19, 2015
Midwife Blanket (Nederlandse Vertaling)

Please note: This version of the pattern is written in Dutch. Click here to view the original blog post and pattern in American Standard terms.

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Dit patroon is vertaald door Lotte van Dinteren (www.lottehaakt.nl). Hartelijk dank, Lotte!

THE MIDWIFE BLANKET

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Haak een ketting van 118 lossen

Toer 1: haak een stokje in de 6e losse vanaf je haaknaald (1 losse, 1 steek overslaan, Stokje in de volgende steek) herhaal tot het einde, 4 lossen en draai je werk.

Toer 2: sla de eerste 2 steken over, stokje in de volgende 15 steken inclusief de losse van de vorige rij. (1 losse, 1 steek overslaan, stokje in de volgende 15 steken) 6 keer herhalen. 1 losse, 1 steek overslaan, stokje in de volgende steek (welke onderdeel is van de 4 lossen van de vorige rij), 4 lossen en draai je werk.

Toer 3: sla de eerste 2 steken over. Stokje in de volgende 6 steken, 3 lossen, sla 3 steken over, stokje in de volgende 6 steken (1 losse, 1 steek overslaan, stokje in de volgende 6 steken, 3 lossen, 3 steken overslaan, stokje in de volgende 6 steken) herhaal nog 6 keer. 1 losse, stokje in de volgende steek (welke onderdeel is van de 4 lossen van de vorige rij), 4 lossen en draai je werk.

Toer 4: Sla de eerste 2 steken over, stokje in de volgende 4 steken, 3 lossen, 3 steken overslaan, halve vaste in de volgende steek, 3 lossen, 3 steken overslaan, stokje in de volgende 4 steken (1 losse, 1 steek overslaan, stokje in de volgende 4 steken, 3 lossen, stokje in de volgende 3 steken, halve vaste in de volgende steek, 3 lossen, sla 3 steken over, stokje in de volgende 4 steken) herhaal nog eens 6 keer. 1 losse, stokje in de volgende steek (welke onderdeel is van de 4 lossen van de vorige rij), 4 lossen en draai je werk.

Toer 5: Sla eerste 2 steken over, stokje in de volgende 6 stokjes (vergeet niet de lossen van de vorige rij mee te tellen), 3 lossen, sla 3 steken over, stokje in de volgende 6 steken (1 losse, 1 steek overslaan, stokje in de volgende 6 steken, 3 lossen, 3 steken overslaan, stokje in de volgende 6 steken) herhaal nog een 6 keer. 1 losse, stokje in de volgende steek (welke onderdeel is van de 4 lossen van de vorige rij), 4 lossen en draai je werk.

Toer 6: Sla eerste 2 steken over, stokje in de volgende 15 steken (1 losse, 1 steek overslaan, stokje in de volgende 15 steken) herhaal nog eens 6 keer. 1 losse, stokje in de volgende steek (welke onderdeel is van de 4 lossen van de vorige rij), 4 lossen en keer je werk.

Toer 7: Sla de eerste twee steken over. Stokje in de volgende steek (1 losse, 1 steek overslaan, stokje in de volgende steek) herhaal tot einde. 4 lossen en draai je werk.

Herhaal tot de deken de gewenste lengte heeft.

July 30, 2015
(FRANÇAIS) Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL – Partie 3 de 3
Je ne parle pas français, je ne pourrai lire vos commentaires ou répondre à vos questions. Toutefois, ne vous privez pas de le faire en vous joignant au groupe Facebook CAL, d’autres francophones sauront vous assister.

Je remercie Johanne Rousseau pour son aide dans la traduction de cette page!

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Bienvenue à la partie 3 du CAL Sac à bandoulière aux fleurs sauvages! Aujourd’hui, nous façonnons la base et la sangle pour notre sac et l’assemblons. Ceci est le DERNIER arrêt pour le patron du CAL! (Mais ne quittez pas maintenant puisqu’il y aura l’annonce des gagnants du cadeau de participation (Giveaway) la semaine prochaine!) Si c’est la première fois que vous prenez connaissance de ce CAL, soyez certain de vérifier cette annonce qui répertorie tout le matériel nécessaire. Même si vous arrivez un peu en retard à cette fête, il est toujours temps de vous joindre à nous!

Et surtout, n’oubliez pas de rejoindre le groupe Facebook Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL pour partager vos progrès, obtenir des conseils des autres, et peut-être même répondre une question ou deux vous-même. Nous sommes tous ensemble dans cette aventure et c’est qui est plaisant!

Voici le calendrier pour le CAL :

25 juin : Ça commence ici. L’affiche introductive et la liste du matériel
2 juillet : Partie 1, les carrés de fleurs
9 juillet : Partie 2, le corps du sac
16 juillet : Partie 3, la base, la décoration et la courroie/bandoulière (la présente affiche)

Chaque affiche du modèle comprend des instructions claires, des photos utiles, et un superbe vidéo tutoriel. Lorsque vous avec complété la tâche de la semaine, rendez-vous sur la page du groupe Facebook CAL et partagez l’évolution de votre travail. Surtout n’oubliez pas de vous inscrire pour le cadeau de participation (Giveaway), tout en bas du modèle. Il y aura de nouvelles chances pour ajouter des participations chaque semaine, donc portez attention.

Prêt? Terminons ce sac à bandoulière!

TUTORIEL VIDÉO

Visuel apprenant? Utilisez le tutoriel vidéo! Si vous allez seulement utiliser la vidéo comme une référence, voici une ventilation utile:

00:16 Mise en route de la Base
06:15 L’ajout de la toile en plastique
11:41 Prepping le fond du sac
16:10 Fixation de la base
19:36 Un modèle de base Strap

Vous ne pouvez pas voir la vidéo? Essayez d’actualiser la page, et si cela ne fonctionne pas, cliquez ici.

CAL SAC À BANDOULIÈRE AUX FLEURS SAUVAGE, PARTIE 3 : CONSTRUIRE LE BAS DU SAC

Vous aurez besoin :
Crochet (le même que vous avez utilisé aux parties 1 et 2)
Votre choix de laine
1 grande feuille de canevas de plastique (disponible dans la majorité des magasins d’artisanat)
Crayon ou marqueur Sharpie
Ciseaux

Notes :
- En faire 2
- Vous allez joindre vos rangs avec une MC sur la première MS du rang.
Abréviations
BR – bride
MC – maille coulée
ML – maille en l’air (chaînette)
MS – maille serrée

Étape 1 : le patron (en faire 2)

Pour commencer :
Avec le crochet H (ou quel que soit le crochet que vous avez utilisé), faire 36 ML.

Rang 1 : 3 MS dans la deuxième maille à partir du crochet. 1 MS dans chacune des 33 ML. 3 MS dans la dernière ML de la chaînette, travaillant autour de la chaînette vers l’autre côté. Sur l’autre côté, 1 MS dans chacune des 33 ML. Joindre la première MS avec 1 MC. (72)

Rang 2 : 1 ML (ne compte pas comme une maille, ici et tout au long des prochains rangs). 2 MS dans la même maille, 2 MS dans les 2 prochaines mailles. 1 MS dans les 33 mailles suivantes. 2 MS dans chacune des 3 prochaines mailles. 1 MS dans les 33 mailles suivantes. Joindre à la première MS avec 1 MC. (78)

Rang 3 : 1 ML. 2 MS dans la même maille. 1 MS dans la maille suivante. (2 MS dans la prochaine, 1 MS dans la suivante) 2 fois. 1 MS dans les prochaines 33 mailles. (2 MS dans la prochaine, 1 MS dans la suivante) 3 fois. 1 MS dans les prochaines 33 mailles. Joindre à la première MS avec 1 MC. (84)

Rang 4 : 1 ML. 1 MS dans chacune des 2 premières mailles. 2 MS dans la maille suivante. (1 MS chacune des 2 prochaines mailles, 2 MS dans la suivante) 2 fois. 1 MS dans les prochaines 33 mailles. (1 MS chacune des 2 prochaines mailles, 2 MS dans la suivante) 3 fois. 1 MS dans les prochaines 33 mailles. Joindre à la première MS avec 1 MC. (90)

Rang 5 : 1 ML. 2 MS dans la même maille. 1 MS dans chacune des 3 mailles suivantes. (2 MS dans la prochaine, 1 MS dans chacune des 3 mailles suivantes) 2 fois. 1 MS dans les prochaines 33 mailles. (2 MS dans la prochaine, 1 MS dans chacune des 3 mailles suivantes) 3 fois. 1 MS dans les prochaines 33 mailles. Joindre à la première MS avec 1 MC. (96)

Rang 6 : 1 ML. 1 MS dans chacune des 4 premières mailles. 2 MS dans la maille suivante. (1 MS chacune des 4 prochaines mailles, 2 MS dans la suivante) 2 fois. 1 MS dans les prochaines 33 mailles. (1 MS chacune des 4 prochaines mailles, 2 MS dans la suivante) 3 fois. 1 MS dans les prochaines 33 mailles. Joindre à la première MS avec 1 MC. (102)

Rang 7 1 ML. 2 MS dans la même maille. 1 MS dans chacune des 5 mailles suivantes. (2 MS dans la prochaine, 1 MS dans chacune des 5 mailles suivantes) 2 fois. 1 MS dans les prochaines 33 mailles. (2 MS dans la prochaine, 1 MS dans chacune des 5 mailles suivantes) 3 fois. 1 MS dans les prochaines 33 mailles. Joindre à la première MS avec 1 MC. (108)

Rang 8 : 1 ML. 1 MS dans chacune des 6 premières mailles. 2 MS dans la maille suivante. (1 MS chacune des 6 prochaines mailles, 2 MS dans la suivante) 2 fois. 1 MS dans les prochaines 33 mailles. (1 MS chacune des 6 prochaines mailles, 2 MS dans la suivante) 3 fois. 1 MS dans les prochaines 33 mailles. Joindre à la première MS avec 1 MC. (114)

Rang 9 1 ML. 2 MS dans la même maille. 1 MS dans chacune des 7 mailles suivantes. (2 MS dans la prochaine, 1 MS dans chacune des 7 mailles suivantes) 2 fois. 1 MS dans les prochaines 33 mailles. (2 MS dans la prochaine, 1 MS dans chacune des 3 mailles suivantes) 3 fois. 1 MS dans les prochaines 33 mailles. Joindre à la première MS avec 1 MC. (120)

ARRÊTEZ à ce point, SANS couper le fil (parce que vous en avez besoin afin de compléter un autre rang). Tracez, avec le crayon Sharpie, la grandeur obtenue (ce que vous avez jusqu’ici) sur la feuille de canevas de plastique. Vous n’avez besoin que d’un seul morceau de canevas. Voir le vidéo tutoriel. Une fois cette pièce de canevas prête, poursuivre avec le rang 10.

Rang 10 : 1 ML. 1 MS dans chacune des 8 premières mailles. 2 MS dans la maille suivante. (1 MS chacune des 8 prochaines mailles, 2 MS dans la suivante) 2 fois. 1 MS dans les prochaines 33 mailles. (1 MS chacune des 8 prochaines mailles, 2 MS dans la suivante) 3 fois. 1 MS dans les prochaines 33 mailles. Joindre à la première MS avec 1 MC. (126)

Étape 2 : Assemblage des deux bases

Nous devons maintenant crocheter ensemble les deux bases que nous venons de faire, tout en insérant la pièce de canevas de plastique entre les deux. Placer les deux bases l’une sur l’autre pour qu’elles soient alignées exactement de la même façon. Utiliser la couture pour le visualiser (voir la photo) :

Ensuite, insérer le crochet sur la bordure, à travers les deux morceaux, et attacher la laine.

1 MS dans la même maille et poursuivre avec des MS jusqu’environ la moitié du tour, en passant à travers les 4 boucles chaque fois. Insérez le morceau de canevas de plastique.

Reprendre la fin du tour avec des MS pour enfermer entièrement le canevas de plastique. Une fois le tour complété, joindre avec 1 MC dans la première MS. Couper et rentrer le fil.

Étape 3 : Préparer le fond du sac

Nous devons ajouter un rang de 126 MS au bas du sac afin que le nombre de mailles corresponde parfaitement avec la base que nous venons de créer. Mettre la base de côté et prendre le sac devant vous avec la « tête en bas », tout en s’assurant que les anneaux brisés se retrouvent à chaque extrémité (de chaque côté). Insérer le crochet et attacher le fil de laine dans le coin droit du carré à l’extrême droite (celui qui se trouve vis-à-vis l’anneau brisé), dans l’espace des 2 ML du rang final de ce carré.

Faire 1 MS dans le même espace. Ensuite, 1 MS dans chacune des MS le long de la bordure. Il y en a 20, de sorte que l’ajout de celle que nous mettons dans le coin nous donne 21 MS. Omettre le coin gauche de ce carré et la couture. Répéter ces instructions 5 autres fois en faisant des MS dans chaque coin droit des carrés, et les 20 mailles des bordures, passant par-dessus les coins gauches et les coutures. Joindre avec 1 MC dans la première MS du rang.

Étape 4 : Assemblage de la base

Identifier la maille la plus centrale de l’une des extrémités de votre base (peut être fait à l’œil). Avec le crochet toujours inséré dans la dernière maille du dernier rang (MC), passer également à travers cette maille centrale. Faire un jeté et passer le fil à travers les deux mailles

En travaillant à travers les 4 boucles, faire des MC tout autour de la base du sac pour la joindre au corps. Lorsque terminé, faire une MC dans la première maille du rang, couper et rentrer le fil. (Le faire à l’intérieur du sac et non à l’extérieur. Utiliser une aiguille pour passer les fils vers l’intérieur du sac avant de les rentrer.)

PATRON DE SANGLE DE BASE

Les options pour la sangle sont infinies. Vous pouvez vous en procurer une en cuir comme celle-ci pour un style plus raffiné, ou faire une recherche sur Pinterest pour un modèle crocheté qui reflète votre personnalité. Je vous soumets un modèle de base, qui convient aux débutants, qui donnera un à votre sac un style décontracté.

Vous aurez besoin :
Crochet (le même que vous avez utilisé depuis le début)
Votre choix de laine
Ciseaux & aiguille
Quincaillerie (voir les notes)

Notes :
(1) Après avoir fait votre sangle, vous devrez la coudre à un anneau. Vous pouvez la coudre après les anneaux sur le sac, elle ne sera pas détachable. Si vous désirez qu’elle soit amovible (et interchangeable), veuillez coudre une paire de crochets avec fermoirs. Ce sont essentiellement des crochets métalliques qui s’accrochent et se décrochent aux anneaux de votre sac. On les trouve dans la section des bijoux de la plupart des magasins d’artisanat.
(2) PP – point pic. Point complété à partir d’une MS mais en insérant votre crochet un point plus bas qu’à l’habitude. Voir les photos ci-après ou visionner le vidéo tutoriel.

Le patron

Pour commencer :
Avec le crochet H (ou quel que soit le crochet que vous avez utilisé), faire 6 ML.

Rang 1 : 1 MS dans la deuxième maille à partir du crochet et dans chacune des autres mailles (5)

Rang 2 : 1 ML, tourner. MS dans toutes les mailles. (5)

Rang 3 : Répéter le rang 2 autant de fois que vous le souhaitez afin d’obtenir la longueur de sangle désirée. La sangle sur cette photo, fait avec le fil Cotton-Ease et un crochet de grandeur H, a une longueur de 90 rangs.

Bordure, rang 1 : 1 ML. Faire des MS uniformément autour de toute la sangle, faire 3 MS dans chacun des coins. Joindre avec 1 MC dans la première MS du rang. (Si vous n’êtes pas certain quant à l’endroit où mettre vos MS, veuillez visionner le vidéo tutoriel.)

Bordure, rang 2 : Faire des PP un rang plus bas, autour du premier rang de bordure, mettant 3 PP dans chacun des coins. Joindre avec 1 MC dans le premier PP du rang. (Les points jaunes, sur la photo, vous indiquent l’endroit où insérer votre crochet pour faire le point pic, qui est essentiellement une maille serrée qui s’étire vers le rang précédent.)

Fermer le tour, mais NE PAS rentrer le fil. (Couper le fil en gardant une longueur qui vous permettra de coudre la sangle)

Fixation à la quincaillerie

Glissez une extrémité de la sangle dans les attaches que vous avez choisies (que ce soit les anneaux attachés à votre sac ou les anneaux/crochets détachables) et la plier sur elle-même. Utilisez le bout de fil pour la coudre sur elle-même, rentrer le fil pour sécuriser la couture. Répéter les instructions pour l’autre extrémité de la sangle en vous assurant de la plier à la même longueur que le premier côté.
July 15, 2015
(NORSK) Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL – Part 3 of 3

Vær oppmerksom, dette blogginnlegget (med unntak av mønsteret) ble oversatt ved hjelp av Google Translate, så jeg beklager for eventuelle feil. Mønsteret selv ble oversatt av Matilde Juveli – Takk så veldig mye, Matilde! Kommentarer til dette innlegget har blitt slått “av” fordi jeg ikke kan lese dem likevel. Hvis du trenger hjelp, kan du søke det på Wildflower skulderveske CAL Facebook Group.

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Velkommen til del 3 av Villblomst skulderbag cal (samhekling.)I dag skal vi ta for oss bunnen av bagen, samt rem/stropp, og til slutt montere det hele. Dette er SISTE del av cal`en, men ikke gå noe sted, vinnere av giveaway`en trekkes neste uke!

Hvis dette er første gang du hører om denne cal`en, så sjekk ut tidligere link, som lister opp alt du trenger av garn og tilbehør. Selv om du er litt sent ute, er du mer enn velkommen til å bli med!

Og ikke glem Wildflower sholderbag cal facebook group, hvor du kan dele din frmegang med andre deltakere, samt få tips og råd, og kanskje besvare et spørsmål eller to selv. Vi er med på dette sammen, og det er dét som gjør det så morsomt!

Fremdriftsplan for cal`en vår er som følger;

25. JuniStart her! Intro post og material liste
2. JuliDel 1, blomsterruter
9. Julidel 2, vi starter på selve bagen
16. Juli Del 3, Bunn, pynt og reim (denne ukas del)

Hver del av samheklingen vil inneholde klare instruksjoner, hjelpfulle bilder og en flott tutorial/info video. Husk å legge ut bilder av din framgang i facebookgruppa vår! Husk også å melde deg på vår giveaway!

Klar? La oss sette i gang med del 3!

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TUTORIAL VIDEO

Visuell elev? Her er en nyttig video. Hvis du bare kommer til å bruke video som en referanse, her er en nyttig oversikt:

00:16 Komme i gang på Base
06:15 Legge til plast lerret
11:41 prepping bunnen av sekken
16:10 Feste Base
19:36 En grunnleggende Strap Pattern

Video ikke dukke opp? Prøv å oppdatere siden, og hvis det ikke fungerer, kan du klikke her.

KONSTRUERE BUNNEN AV VESKEN

Du trenger:
heklenål (samme som tidligere)
garn
1 stor bit plastikk canvas (finner det på hobbybutikken)
Markørpenn
Saks

Merk:
(1) Du trenger 2 stk
(2) Du avslutter runden med en lm i den første fm på omg.

Mønster (lag 2):
Legg opp 36 lm, kjm i første m.

Omg 1: Beg i 2 lm fra nåla; 3 fm i samme m. Fm i hver av de neste 33 m. 3 fm i siste m. Fortsett rundt lm rekka , fm i hver av de neste 33 lm (72m.) Forvirret? Se videoen, så blir alt mye klarer

Omg 2: 1 lm (teller ikke som en m, verken her el senere), 2 fm i samme m, 2 fm i hver av de 2 neste m, fm i hver av de neste 33 m, 2 fm i hver av de neste 3 m, fm i hver av de neste 33 m. 2 fm i hver av de neste 3 m, kjm i første m fra forrige omg (78 m.)

Omg 3: 1 lm, 2 fm i samme m, fm i neste m * 2 fm i neste m, fm i neste m* Gjenta fra * til * 2 ganger. Fm i hver av de neste 33 m, * 2 fm i neste m, fm i neste m * Gjenta fra * til * 3 ganger. Fm i hver av de neste 33 m. Kjm i første m fra forrige omg (84 m.)

Omg 4: 1 lm. Fm i de neste 2 m, 2 fm i neste m, * fm hver av de neste 2 m,2 fm i neste m* Gjenta fra * til * 2 ganger. Fm i hver av de neste 33 m, * fm i hver av de 2 neste m, 2 fm i neste m* Gjenta fra * til * 3 ganger. Fm i hver av de neste 33 m, kjm i første m fra forrige omg (90 m.)

Omg 5: 1 lm, 2 fm i samme m, fm i hver av de neste 3 m * 2 fm i neste m, fm i hver av de neste 3 m* Gjenta fra * til * 2 ganger, fm i hver av de neste 33 m, * 2 fm i neste m, fm i hver av de neste 3 m* Gjenta fra * til * 3 ganger.Fm i hver av de neste 33m, kjm i første m fra forrige omg (96 m.)

Omg 6: 1 lm, fm i hver av de første 4 m, 2 fm i neste m *fm i hver av de neste 4 m, 2 fm i neste m* Gjenta fra * til * 2 ganger. Fm i hver av de neste 33 m, *fm fm i hver av de nest 4 m, fm i neste m* Gjenta fra * til * 3 ganger, fm i hver av de neste 33 m, kjm i første m fra forrige omg (102 m.)

Omg 7: 1lm,2 fm i samme m, fm i hver av de neste 5 m, * 2 fm i neste m, fm i hver av de neste 5 m* Gjenta fra * til * 2 ganger, Fm i hver av de neste 33m, * 2 fm i neste m, fm i hver av de neste 5 m* Gjenta fra * til * 3 ganger, fm i hver av de neste 33 m, kjm i første m fra forrige omg (108 m.)

Omg 8: 1 lm, fm i hver av de neste 6 m, 2 fm i neste m, * fm i hver av de neste 6 m, 2 fm i neste m* Gjenta fra * til * 2 ganger, Fm i hver av de neste 33 m, *fm i hver av de neste 6 m, 2 fm i neste m* Gjenta fra * til * 3 ganger, fm i hver av de neste 33 m, kjm i første m fra forrige omg (114 m.)

Omg 9: 1 lm, 2 fm i neste m, fm i hver av de neste 7 m, * 2 fm i neste m, fm i hver av de neste 7 m* Gjenta fra * til * 2 ganger, fm i hver av de neste 33 m, * 2 fm i neste m, fm i hver av de neste 7 m* Gjenta fra * til * 3 ganger, fm i hver av de neste 33m, kjm i første m fra forrige omg (120 m.)

STOP! Nå skal du, uten å kutte tråden (du trenger den nemlig fortsatt en omgang til), legge den heklede bunnen oppå plastikk canvasen, og tegne rundt med markeringspennen (kun en bit.) Se videoen for veiledning. Når du har kuttet til canvasen, så fortsett å hekle omgang 10.

Omg 10: 1 lm, fm i hver av de 8 første m, 2 fm i neste m, * fm i hver av de neste 8 m, 2 fm i neste m * Gjenta fra * til * 2 ganger, fm i de neste 33 m, * fm i hver av de neste 8 m, 2 fm i neste m* Gjenta fra * til * 3 ganger, fm i hver av de neste 33 m, kjm i første m fra forrige omg (126 m.)

Kutt og fest tråden.

Sy sammen delene:

Vi må nå sy sammen de 2 like delene vi har heklet, med plastic canvasen i midten (som en sandwich.) Plasser de 2 bunnene ved siden av hverandre, så de ligger helt likt. Bruk sømmen for å få de helt paralelle (se bilde.)

Så Hekle en kjm i sømmen, gjennom begge delene, og sørg for at garnet sitter godt. Fm i samme m, fm i hver m omg rundt, MEN når du er halvveis, legger du plastic canvasen inn mellom de to delene, før du hekler videre, omg ut, kjm i første m. Kutt og sy inn tråden.

FORBERÉD SAMMENSYING AV BUNN OG BAG:

For å få den nederste delen av bagen (blomsterrutene) til å passe helt med kanten langs bunnen, må vi nå hekle en rad à 126 fm langs underkanten av blomster rutene.

Legg vekk bunnen, og plasser selve bagen foran deg, opp ned, med metallringene i ytterkant. Hekle fast garnet med en kjm i den høyre siden av bagens nedre kant (som nå ligger øverst/lengst fra deg), og pass på å starte omg i hjørnet på blomsterrutens siste omg (de 2 lm i hjørnet.) Fm i samme hjørnet, fm i hver m på ruten, MEN hopp over hjørne-m i venstre side, samt skjøten. Det skal være 21 fm pr blomsterrute, totalt 126 m rundt, avslutt med en kjm i første m.

MONTERING AV BUNN OG BAG:

Finn midtmasken på en av bunnens ender, og – med samme tråd som du nettopp fullførte de 125 fm langs bagen nedre kant med, drar du tråden gjennom bunnens midtmaske, tar et kast og drar tråden gjennom begge løkkene. Hekle gjennom alle 4 maskeledd (bunn og nedre del av bag), og hekle kjm hele omg rundt (126 m), avslutt med en kjm i første m. Kutt og fest tråden (husk å feste trådene på innsiden av bagen!)

Hekle gjennom alle 4 maskeledd (bunn og nedre del av bag), og hekle kjm hele omg rundt (126 m), avslutt med en kjm i første m. Kutt og fest tråden (husk å feste trådene på innsiden av bagen!)

BASIC STROPP/REM:

Det finnes utallige oppskrifter for remmer, du kan også kjøpe mer sofistikerte remmer, eller søke på pinterest for en heklet rem som passer din stil. Jeg gir deg her en veldig grunnleggende oppskrift på rem, en nybegynner vennlig oppskrift, som vil gi bagen din et mer hverdagslig utseende.

Du trenger:

heklenål (samme som for resten av bagen) garn saks evt 2 karabinkroker

Merk:
(1) Etter at du har laget remmen din, skal den sys til ringene i sidene av bagen. Ønsker du at den skal kunne tas av, kan du feste karabinkroker til remmen. Hvis ikke, fest remmen direkte til bagen!
(2) SP= Spike stitch. Du fullfører en fm, ved å sette inn nåla en maske lavere enn vanlig. Se bilder for nærmere forklaring!

Hekle rem:
6 lm.

Rad 1: fm i andre m fra nåla, og i hver m raden ut (5 m.)

Rad 2: lm, snu, fm raden ut (5 m.)

Rad 3-?: Gjenta rad 2 så mange ganger du ønsker for å få ønsket lengde. Remmen på bildet er ca 90 rader lang.

Kant rundt, omg 1: lm, fm i hver m rundt hele remmen, plasser 3 fm i hvert hjørne, kjm i første fm.

Kant rundt, omg 2: SP en rad ned, rundt hele den første kant-omg(forrige omg), 3 SP i hvert hjørne, kjm i første m. Se bilde og video for nærmere forklaring!

Kutt og fest tråden!

FESTE I KROKENE

Træ den ene enden av stroppen inn i den ene ringen (evt i den ene av de 2 karabinkrokene, dersom du ønsker en avtakbar stropp), og fold den over seg selv. Bruk trådenden til å feste (sy) den inn i seg selv, og fest tråden godt. Gjenta på den andre siden!

Bagen er nå ferdig!:)

July 15, 2015