Category: All Free Patterns

Elena Scarf

So I was looking back through all of my patterns the other day and realizing that, for whatever reason, I’ve never designed a regular, classic scarf. I’ve always done infinity scarves! It’s probably because I love to wear them; they are just so easy.

When I got the idea for this scarf, I originally intended it to be an infinity scarf, too. I was going to seam it up at the end, add some buttons, and maybe even add some fringe all the way around. But the longer I worked on it, the more I started to think, this should be a classic scarf. It has this amazing texture, and when I would double-wrap it around my neck, all that gorgeous texture just sort of got lost in the folds. But when I draped it once around my neck and let it hang, it just looked right.

So, here is yet another instance this season when I’m branching out of my “norm” and doing something different than what I’ve always done. I hope you love the finished product as much as I do! This scarf has so many ways it can be worn, and here are a few (my favorite is the Figure 8):

On Using A Different Yarn Weight

Every time I design a pattern with #3 light yarn, someone inevitably asks how to adapt the pattern for #4 worsted. I totally get it; I crocheted for at least a year or two before I ventured into anything less than #4. While I think the lighter yarn really contributes to the texture of this pattern (and, shoutout to the newbies: #3 yarn is not as scary as you think it is), it really wouldn’t be that difficult to adapt it for #4 yarn, or even bulky or super bulky yarn. You just need to make the body of the scarf about 65″ long and repeat the rows until it is 7″ wide. Then, when you add your ribbing, chain enough to add a 2.5″ ribbing section to each end. I can’t give you exact stitch / row counts, nor can I tell you how much the yardage would be, but feel free to adapt it as you see fit. (That’s my nice way of saying that if you deviate from the pattern, you’re on your own.) 🙂

And since I loved the finished look of this scarf so much, I knew it needed to be a set. Click here to view the pattern for the matching slouch!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

Elena Scarf

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 70″ long (not including the fringe) x 7″ wide. It’s not “super-scarf” dimensions, but it’s big enough to give you lots of stylish, wearable options.

Hook: H (5.00mm)

Yarn: Approximately 725 yards (this does include the fringe) of Cascade Yarns’ Longwood Sport. Longwood Sport is a #3 light yarn, and the color shown on the sample is “Oatmeal.”

Gauge: 9 rows of 5 (SC+HDC) combos = 2″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put 1 SC and 1 HDC in the same ST)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in rows, and the ribbing sections on the ends are worked after the main part of the scarf is finished.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: CH 309.

Row 1: In 3rd CH from hook, SC+HDC. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (308)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (308)

Rows 3-32: Repeat Row 2. (308)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Ribbing
Next we’ll crochet the small ribbing sections to each end of the scarf. We will crochet one row of SC along the short edge to provide a base for our ribbing, and then we will be working the ribbing in vertical rows, attaching it to the base row with SL STS as we go.

Ribbing Base Row: Attach yarn to one of the corners of the scarf. SC evenly down the short edge, putting 1SC in each row, for a total of 32SC. CH13.

Ribbing Row 1: Turn your work and SC in 2nd CH from hook, and in each remaining CH. SL ST in the first SC of the Base Row, then SL ST in the next SC of the base row. (12, plus the 2 SL STS on the base row)

Ribbing Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the first 11 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (12)

Ribbing Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 11 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the Base Row. (12, plus the 2 SL STS on the base row)

Ribbing Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the first 11 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (12)

Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way down the Base Row (for 32 rows). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Repeat “Ribbing” instructions for the opposite end of the scarf.

Tassels
Last, we’ll attach tassels to both ends of the scarf.

Cut at least 80 (a few more to be safe) 18″ strands of yarn. In groups of 8 strands, attach yarn to first edge of scarf; 5 groups total, spaced evenly across the edge of the ribbing. Repeat on opposite end of scarf.

November 25, 2016
Riverbed Cowl
In my attempt to put out more pattern sets this season, today’s pattern is a match for the previously-released Riverbed Slouch Hat – the Riverbed Cowl!

Just like the matching slouch, this cowl is soooo easy. It uses the same yarns as the hat — Lion Brand’s Tweed Stripes (shown in “Caramel”) and Vanna’s Choice (shown in “Linen”).

Click here to view the slouch hat pattern, or scroll down for the cowl pattern!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

RIVERBED COWL

Level: Easy

Size: 32″ around x 12″ tall

Materials:
- K hook (6.50mm) and I hook (5.5mm)
- Yarn needle
- 170 yards of Yarn A: Lion Brand Tweed Stripes (sample shown in Caramel) and 110 yards of Yarn B: Vanna’s Choice in a coordinating color (sample shown in Linen). Tweed Stripes is a Bulky #5 yarn, and Vanna’s Choice is a Worsted/Aran #4 yarn.
- Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)
Gauge:
With larger hook, 6 rows of 7 HDC & SC (alternate each row) = 2″ square. (Gauge is not crucial in this pattern, as instructions for obtaining the correct final measurements are given throughout the pattern.)

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:

(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) After you create the ribbed band, this pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round. Do not join, chain or turn until instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
(3) In the pattern for the Slouch Hat, which was released first, the thicker #5 weight yarn was used first and was referred to as “Yarn A”, with the thinner #4 weight yarn being referred to as “Yarn B”. For consistency, I decided to keep those designations in this pattern even though we start with the thinner #4 weight yarn this time. (In case you were wondering why I start with “Yarn B” below.)

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using smaller hook and Yarn B, CH7.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (6)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 4 STS. SC in last ST. (6)

Rows 3-92 (or until ribbing is about 28″ long): Repeat Row 2. (6)

Fasten off and use your tail to sew the short ends of the ribbing together to form a circle.

Body
Switch to larger hook. Attach Yarn A at the seam of the ribbing and CH1. We will now work in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC evenly around the entire circle, putting 1SC in each ribbing row. (92)

Round 2: HDC in each ST around. (92)

Round 3: SC in each ST around. (92)

Rounds 4-27 (or until cowl measures about 11″ tall): Repeat Rounds 2 & 3. (92)

Attach Yarn B and switch back to smaller hook.

Rounds 28-31: SC in each ST around. (92)

Round 32: SC in each of the first 90 STS. SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (92)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.
November 18, 2016
Newborn Photography Prop Blanket

Today’s pattern release is a little out-of-the-norm for me. If you’re expecting a bundle of joy soon, or if you work with (or sell to) photographers, you might love it!

With the arrival of Baby Boy #3 less than 2 months away, I’m starting to think about what I want to do for his newborn photo session. I didn’t even know how to crochet when my two older (now 4 & 6) boys were born, so this is exciting!

I’m a big fan of the rustic-modern style, so I’ll definitely be incorporating that into the photos. I saw this pin on Pinterest not long ago and decided that a chalkboard crate was the way to go. I figured I’d have to DIY it, so I was really happy when I came across a baby-sized crate at Walmart that already had the chalkboard section built in. It doesn’t get much easier than that!

I decided to crochet a few fluffy blankets for the crate, and have been keeping my eyes open for the perfect yarns to achieve the cozy rustic look I want. I ended up choosing three different yarns, and whipped up some of the coziest looking prop blankets ever! These yarns are all different brands, but their colors and textures will work beautifully together or separately.

As you’ll see below, this pattern isn’t written out as a pattern so much as it is a formula, because it can work for any yarn and any hook size you choose. So instead of giving you detailed chain and stitch counts, I’ll teach you how to determine the right number of stitches for the yarn you choose, to get a beautiful 20″ x 20″ prop-sized blanket.

Since I know you’re probably wondering, here are the yarns that I used, and their accompanying hook sizes:

– – – – – –

Lion Brand Homespun (bulky)

Color: Shaker
Hook Size: K

This is not a beginner yarn, but I will say that this pattern is ideal for it. The crinkly texture of the yarn makes seeing your stitches tough, but the stitch combination we’re using makes it easy to feel where the hook gets inserted, thanks to the little holes that are created when we skip a stitch and put two stitches together in the next. The resulting blanket is really rustic looking.

– – – – – –

Bernat Home Bundle (super bulky)

Color: Not Sure (It was a mix of cream and white, and I can’t find it online anywhere)
Hook Size: N

I’d never noticed this yarn at the store before, but when I saw it at Joann Fabrics, I knew it was absolutely perfect for the look I wanted to achieve. Home Bundle is a supersized skein of 4 different textures of yarn: a faux-fur, Bernat Blanket, a regular super bulky yarn, and a yarn that feels really similar to Lion Brand Homespun. These textures show up in a self-striping pattern, and I did see a few colorways that featured different colors for each texture, but I opted for the all-cream skein because I didn’t want the jagged edges that come with abrupt color changes (which would be especially noticeable in this thick of a yarn). The resulting blanket is incredibly soft and looks just like something you’d want to snuggle around your newborn.

– – – – – –

Charisma Big! by Loops & Threads (bulky)

Color: Taupe
Hook Size: L

The color of this yarn is gorgeous! I’m always a sucker for really natural-looking neutral yarns, and this is a good one. This is the yarn that shows off the actual pattern the best of the three that I chose. I also opted to put a simple, boy-friendly (i.e. not frilly) border on this one, and included the instructions for it in the pattern below.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

NEWBORN PHOTOGRAPHY PROP BLANKET

Level: Easy

Size: 20″ x 20″

Yarn: Your choice

Hook: Whatever will work well with the yarn you chose

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, measuring tape

Gauge:
Not important

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(3) This pattern will work for any size blanket and you can chain any number to start as long as it’s an odd number.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Being sure to chain an odd number of chains, chain until your starting chain is about 19-20″ in length.

Row 1: SC+HDC in 3rd CH from hook. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across.

Row 2: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across.

Repeat Row 2 until your blanket measures about 20″ in length. Fasten off and weave in ends, or continue on to Optional Edging, below.

– – – – – –

Optional Edging
If you want to give your blanket a nice finished edge without drawing a lot of attention to it (remember, we’re going for the rustic look, not the fancy look), follow these instructions:

Round 1: CH1, turn. SC evenly around the entire blanket, putting 3SC in each corner. (On the sides of the blanket where there aren’t already defined stitches, you can put 1SC in each row.) Join to the first SC with a SL ST.

Round 2: CH1. SL ST in each SC around the entire blanket, putting (SL ST, CH1, SL ST) in each corner stitch. Join to the first SL ST with a SL ST.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

November 10, 2016
Oakley Slouch Hat

Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

A loooooong time ago, I received a shipment from Cascade Yarns and they threw in a bonus ball of a yarn that I’d never used before: Heritage Paints. It sat on my shelf for quite a while, because I honestly didn’t know what to do with it. It was a #1 super fine sock yarn, and the only other experience I’d had with that weight of yarn was when, as a newer crocheter, I’d purchased some of another brand and worked with it for about 2 minutes before I gave up on it because it was so thin and tangly.

Eventually, about a month ago, I started wondering what it would be like to make a hat out of sock yarn. I got so curious that I finally grabbed the Heritage Paints off my shelf and gave it a try. And it was actually really fun!

I honestly don’t know how to compare Heritage yarn to other #1 yarns, because I think the issue I had with that other yarn years ago was probably more due to my inexperience than it was about the yarn. But what I can tell you is that Heritage yarn is really, really easy to use. It actually reminds me a lot of Cascade Longwood yarn (and you all know how much I loooooove that yarn). It’s just a lot thinner. Sure, it takes longer to make a hat, but the gorgeousness of the finished fabric makes up for the time spent!

I stuck with a simple formula of a faux-cinched crown and single crocheted body, because I’m a firm believer in keeping the stitches simple when I’m working with a busy yarn. And I found that working this pattern in single crochet allowed the design of the yarn to show up in nice, neat stripes.

My other philosophy of using busy yarn is that it helps to balance it out with a not-so-busy yarn, so I did the ribbing in Heritage Solids in the color Snow, and I also made a pom pom with my Clover Pom Pom Maker using the same yarn. The resulting hat has such a nice feel and drape. Like wearing a cozy sock on your head! 🙂

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

OAKLEY SLOUCH HAT

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 10″ tall x 9.5″ wide (when laid flat)

Hook: E (3.5mm)

Yarn: About 330 yards (not including optional pom pom) of Heritage Yarn by Cascade Yarns. Heritage is a #1 super fine weight yarn that is very easy to work with. (I think it feels more like a thin sport weight yarn.) Heritage comes in solids, prints, and paints; for the body of the hat in my photos, I used Heritage Prints in “Beach Cliff”, and for the band and the pom pom, I used Heritage Solids in “Snow”.

Gauge: 29 rows of 23 SC = 4″ square.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
BLO (back loops only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Do not join or turn unless instructed to do so. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: Make a MC; CH1.

Round 1: 10HDC in MC. (10)

Round 2: 2HDC in each ST around. (20)

Round 3: 2HDC in each ST around. (40)

Round 4: 2HDC in each ST around. (80)

Tip: Your base should be looking very wavy at this point.

Round 5: (2HDC in next ST, HDC in next ST) around. (120)

Rounds 6-50 (or until hat is about 8″ tall when laid flat): SC in each ST around. (120)

Round 51: SC in each of the first 118 STS (2 STS remain unworked). SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS to smooth down the round.

If using a different color for the band, you can switch to that new color now.

Ribbed Band

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Row 1: CH15. SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in remaining 13 CHS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the final round of the hat. (14, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 13 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (14)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 13 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the final round of the hat. (14, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (120 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends.

Optional: Create and attach pom pom in a coordinating color. (I used a large Clover Pom Pom Maker.)

October 28, 2016
Shiplap Slouch

A couple of months ago, we took our annual family trip to my favorite Michigan spot, South Haven! It was an amazing week full of great food, gorgeous sunsets, and lots and lots of beach time.

Of course I had to stop in at Needle In A Haystack (edit: sadly, this cute little yarn store is now closed for good) for some Cascade Longwood yarn so that I would have something to work on down at the beach!

This is probably my favorite yarn out of anything I’ve used. It’s so soft and has such a stunning, defined finish, and gorgeous drape. I first experienced it (the #3 weight version) during last year’s trip, which resulted in the South Haven Slouch. It’s not the easiest yarn to find, but you can always order it online from stores like Jimmy Beans Wool. It’s pricier than what you find in the big craft stores, so I save it for my most special projects, like the Herringbone Baby Hat I recently made for my son (Due in December).

This year’s “vacation pattern” is also a slouchy hat, because frankly, it’s really hard to crochet anything bigger without it getting dragged across the sand every time the wind blows. And if you’ve spent any time around my blog, you probably noticed that I loooooove slouchy hats. I never get bored with them! Like the South Haven Slouch, this one also uses the #3 weight version of Longwood, called Longwood Sport.

I usually use temporary names for my patterns until it’s time to publish them, and then I come up with something permanent. I called this one the Shiplap Slouch as I was making it, and the name just stuck. Something about the color and the lines reminds me of shiplap. (Yes, I do watch a lot of Fixer Upper, why do you ask?)

OH, and before I forget… yes, there’s a matching cowl pattern!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

SHIPLAP SLOUCH HAT

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 9.5″ tall x 9.5″ wide (when laid flat)

Hook: H (5.00mm) and G (4.25mm)

Yarn: Approximately 230 yards of Cascade Longwood Sport, a #3 light yarn.

Gauge: Your first 5 rounds should measure 3″ across.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
HDC (half double crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds and do not join unless instructed to do so.
(3) Since we are working in a seamless round, your ribbing rows will not meet up perfectly in the back. This is unavoidable, and the alternative (joining each round) is much, much more obvious. (Trust me, I tried it.)
(4) Pattern uses regular HDC to set up each ribbing row. The abbreviation is very similar to HHDC, so pay attention!
(5) To find the “3rd loop” (as mentioned in Round 13 and every 4 rows after that), reach over your top loops and insert your hook into the loop just past (below) the top loop that is furthest from you. (Also called the Camel Stitch or RibHDC.)

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: With H hook, make a magic circle; CH1.

Round 1: 9 HHDC in MC. (9)

Round 2: 2 HHDC in each ST around. (18)

Round 3: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in next ST) around. (27)

Round 4: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)

Round 5: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (45)

Round 6: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (54)

Round 7: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (63)

Round 8: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 6 STS) around. (72)

Round 9: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (81)

Round 10: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 8 STS) around. (90)

Round 11: HHDC in each ST around. (90)

Round 12: HDC in each ST around. (90)

Round 13: HHDC in 3rd loop of each ST around. (90)

Round 14: HHDC in each ST around. (90)

Round 15: HHDC in each ST around. (90)

Round 16: HDC in each ST around. (90)

Rounds 17-32: Repeat Rounds 13-16. (90)

Round 33: HHDC in 3rd loop of each ST around. You should now have 6 rows of ribbing. (90)

Switch to G Hook.

Rounds 34-39: HHDC in each ST around. (90)

Round 40: HHDC in each of the first 86 STS (4 STS remain). SC in each of the next 2 STS, SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (90)

Fasten off and weave in your ends.

October 21, 2016
Shiplap Cowl

Every season, there seems to be one pattern that I am crazy excited about. I try to never put out anything that I’m not proud of, but there’s always one pattern that I think of as the highlight of my season. Last year it was the Rustic Slouch & Infinity Scarf set, and the year before that, the Sandy Cowl. This year, it’s the Shiplap Slouch & Cowl set, hands down!

Made with my favorite yarn, Cascade Longwood Sport, this set combines 3 of my favorite things: 3rd Loop HDC, Herringbone HDC, and fringe.

I actually designed the Shiplap Slouch a couple of months ago while on vacation in South Haven, Michigan:

And after I finished it, I just knew it needed a matching accessory, so I ordered more yarn and made a cowl!

I love me some fringe, but of course, it’s up to you if you want to add it.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

SHIPLAP COWL

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 27″ around x 10.5″ tall (not including fringe)

Hook: H (5.00mm)

Yarn: Approximately 370 yards of Cascade Longwood Sport, a #3 light yarn.

Gauge: 8 rows of 9 HHDC = 2″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
HDC (half double crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds and do not join, turn or chain unless instructed to do so.
(3) Since we are working in a seamless round, your ribbing rows will not meet up perfectly in the back. This is unavoidable, and the alternative (joining each round) is much, much more obvious. (Trust me, I tried it.)
(4) Pattern uses regular HDC to set up each ribbing row. The abbreviation is very similar to HHDC, so pay attention!
(5) To find the “3rd loop” (as mentioned in Round 13 and every 4 rows after that), reach over your top loops and insert your hook into the loop just past (below) the top loop that is furthest from you. (Also called the Camel Stitch or RibHDC.)

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: CH120. Join, being careful not to twist the chain. (Briana K has a brilliantly easy tutorial on how to get this right every time – click here to view!)

Round 1: CH1; HHDC in each ST around. (120)

Rounds 2-7: HHDC in each ST around. (120)

Round 8: HDC in each ST around. (120)

Round 9: HHDC in 3rd loop of each ST around. (120)

Round 10: HHDC in each ST around. (120)

Round 11: HHDC in each ST around. (120)

Round 12: HDC in each ST around. (120)

Rounds 13-37: Repeat Rounds 9-12. (120)

Rounds 38-39: HHDC in each ST around. (120)

Round 40: HHDC in each of the first 116 STS (4 STS remain). SC in each of the next 2 STS. SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (120)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Fringe
Cut about 100 pieces of 9″ long fringe. Take 4 pieces of fringe at a time and, using your hook, attach them along the bottom of the cowl at every 5 stitches.

October 21, 2016
Sophia Slouch Hat
Sometimes, you find a yarn that is just asking to do all the work for you.

That’s how I felt when I found Landscapes (by Lion Brand). The color changes were so gradual and pretty that I knew it was begging to become a simple hat with an eye-catching finish. I’m all about writing patterns that confident beginners can do, and this is one of those patterns!

To pull the colors of the hat into an organized look, I used two skeins of Landscapes: one in Metropolis (a gorgeous mix of silvery purple and black) for the body and one in coordinating Black for the ribbed band. That’s the great thing about Landscapes; it comes in an array of multi-colored (self-striping) hues, as well as coordinating solids.

I also picked up a black Lion Brand Pom, because I’d never used one before. I love how it all came together!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

SOPHIA SLOUCH CROCHET PATTERN

Level: Easy

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 9” across the bottom of the band, and is 10” tall (not including pom pom).

Materials:
- I Hook (5.50mm) and G hook (4.25mm)
- Yarn needle
- 180 yards of Yarn A: Lion Brand Landscapes in a self-striping hue (sample shown in Metropolis) and about 40 yards of Yarn B: Lion Brand Landscapes in a coordinating solid hue (sample shown in Black). (Note: If using the recommended yarn, you’ll need to purchase 3 total skeins – two self-striping and one solid. If you instead choose to do the band of the hat in the same self-striping yarn, you can combine the total yardage and purchase just two skeins of that.)
- Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)
- 1 Lion Brand Pom in coordinating color (optional)
Gauge:
With larger hook, 9 rows of 7 SC = 2″ square.

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:

(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) This hat is worked in a continuous spiral until the band. Do not join, chain or turn until instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
(3) The pom pom is optional.
(4) Because of the self-striping nature of the yarn, and the fact that we need to use more than 1 skein of it, be advised that you may have to pull some yarn out of the second skein in order to find the same color point that your current skein is at in the self-striping pattern. This is just the nature of multi-colored yarns.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using larger hook, with Yarn A, make a magic circle.

Round 1: 10 HDC in MC (10)

Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around (20)

Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around (40)

Note: At this point, it’s going to start looking wavy. You’re doing it right! The back of the hat has a faux-cinched look to it, and this is how we achieve it. Once you get to the body of the hat, it will start to straighten itself out naturally.

Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (60)

Round 5: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 STS) around (80)

Rounds 6-31: SC around (80)

Round 32: SC in each of the first 79 STS (all but the last ST), SL ST into final ST of the round (80)

Join Yarn B. Fasten off Yarn A.

Round 33: CH1. (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 6 STS) around. Join to the top of the first SC2TOG with a SL ST. Do not fasten off; continue to instructions for Ribbed Band. (70)

Ribbed Band

Switch to smaller hook.

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Row 1: CH9. SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in remaining 7 CHS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (8, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat.

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (70 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends. Attach Lion Brand Pom (optional).
October 14, 2016
Herringbone Slouch

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

Last month I published the pattern for the Herringbone Buttoned Cowl, which seems to have gotten a great response!

Lots of you loved it, and I promised that I would make a slouch hat to match. Well, it’s a little later than I had planned on releasing it, but here it is!

The Yarn

For both patterns, I used the gorgeous, relatively-new Vanna’s Style (from Lion Brand), which is a DK (that’s a #3 weight) yarn. (Don’t confuse this with Vanna’s Choice, which is a #4 worsted yarn!) This yarn is stunning. It has the most beautiful stitch definition, which shows off the rows of the Herringbone stitch really nicely. It isn’t too shiny, but has just enough sheen to give it an elegant look. I haven’t found Vanna’s Style in any of my local stores yet, but you can always purchase it direct from Lion Brand.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

HERRINGBONE SLOUCH

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 9.5″ wide x 9.5″ tall (when laid flat)

Hook: G (4.25mm) & H (5.00mm)

Yarn: About 200-210 yards of Vanna’s Style DK Yarn by Lion Brand (not including optional pom pom). Vanna’s Style is a #3 light yarn. The sample is shown in “Silver”.

Gauge: 16 rows of 17 HHDC = 4″ (see “Special Stitch” below for explanation of HHDC)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
BLO (back loops only)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: Leaving at least a 12″ starting tail, CH33. (We’ll use the starting tail to cinch the hat at the end.)

Row 1: HHDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (32)

Rows 2-88, or until piece measures 22″ long (just make sure you do an even number of rows): CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (32)

Switch to H Hook.

Row 89: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly down the long edge, putting 1SC in each row. (88)

Ribbed Band

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to Row 89 of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Ribbing Row 1: CH9. SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in remaining 7 CHS. SL ST to the first SC of Row 89. SL ST to the next ST of that row. (8, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Ribbing Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the previous ribbing row. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Ribbing Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Row 89. (8, plus 2 SL STS)

Ribbing Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the previous ribbing row. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way down the edge.

Because Row 89 consisted of an even number of stitches, you should be ending with a repeat of Row 4, with your hook now at the bottom corner of the flat piece (see Figure 1, below).

Seaming & Cinching the Hat Closed

Fasten off your yarn, leaving a 24″ tail. Bring the short ends of the hat together and sew them up using your tail and a yarn needle (see Figure 2). When you reach the top, tie a knot, fasten off and weave in the end.

Thread your starting tail through the yarn needle and weave it in and out along the very top edge of the hat (see figure 3). I wove mine through every two rows. When you pull on the starting tail, you’ll start to notice the hat beginning to cinch itself up.

When you’ve gone all the way around the circle, pull the tail as tight as you can (without breaking the yarn!) and tie a couple of knots. You may want to sew across the cinch a few times to really secure it. Then, fasten off and weave in the tail. Turn your hat right-side out.

Done! Add a pom pom if you want, or leave as is.

October 7, 2016
Savannah Slouch Hat

This season, I’ve gotten very excited about the Herringbone Stitch. There are so many different ways to change up the look of this stitch! Today, I’m introducing a set of patterns that utilize the Herringbone Double Crochet stitch (HbDC), worked in a continuous round.

The interesting thing about this stitch for me was that as I started experimenting with it, I quickly discovered that while the right side of my work kind of bored me, I was intrigued by the texture showing up on the wrong side. So, I designed the Savannah Slouch Hat to showcase the wrong side!

This pattern is great for a confident beginner to wants to branch out beyond those most basic stitches we all learn at first.

And, it has a matching scarf which is even more beginner friendly! Showcasing a different texture on each side, the matching scarf is so simple; you’ll definitely want to bring it along to your next Netflix binge.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

SAVANNAH SLOUCH HAT

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 9″ tall x 9.5″ wide (when laid flat)

Hooks: K (6.5mm) and H (5.00mm)

Yarn: About 150 yards of Vanna’s Choice by Lion Brand (that’s a little less than 1 skein). Vanna’s Choice is a #4 aran yarn. The sample is shown in “Linen”.

Gauge: With larger hook, 10 rows of 11 HbDC = 4″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker, 3 small buttons, sewing needle, and thread to match yarn color.

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
HbDC (herringbone double crochet; see “special stitch” below)

Special Stitch:
HbDC – Herringbone Double Crochet. When worked in the round without turning, this stitch creates two beautiful and very different textures on either side of the piece. Here’s how you do it:

HbDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through first loop on hook. Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over again and pull the loop through both loops on the hook.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: Make a MC; CH1.

Round 1: 12 HbDC in MC. (12)

Round 2: 2 HbDC in each ST around. (24)

Round 3: 2 HbDC in each ST around. (48)

Round 4: (2 HbDC in next ST, 1 HbDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (64)

Rounds 5-15: HbDC in each ST around. (64)

If you want a slouchier hat, add more rounds here before moving on to Round 16.

Round 16: HbDC in each of the first 56 STS (6 STS remain). HDC in each of the next 2 STS. SC in each of the next 2 STS. SL ST in each of the 2 remaining STS. (64)

Switch to H Hook.

Round 17: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. (Do not join.) CH9. This is the base for our button flap. (64 + CH9)

Round 18: Turn. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in remaining 7 CHs. Continue to SC in each ST around (you’re going in the opposite direction from Round 17). (72)

Rounds 19-23: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around (including the button flap). (72)

Round 24 (edging): CH1, do not turn. SC in each ST around flap and around the entire base, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC.

Fasten off. Turn hat inside out to display the “wrong side” (the one with more texture). Now considering this the outside of the hat, weave your ends securely into the inside of the hat.

Button Flap
Line up the flap with the section of the band that it will overlap, and use a needle and appropriately-colored thread to sew it in place. Position buttons as desired and sew them in place as well.

September 22, 2016
Savannah Infinity Scarf

This season, I’ve gotten very excited about the Herringbone Stitch. There are so many different ways to change up the look of this stitch! Today, I’m introducing a set of patterns that utilize the Herringbone Double Crochet stitch (HbDC), worked in a continuous round.

If you’re a beginner who already has the most basic stitches under your belt, you’re going to love this scarf pattern! You’ll learn a new stitch and have plenty of practice with it as you go round and round the scarf.

And the great news is, there’s a matching slouch hat!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

SAVANNAH INFINITY SCARF

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: Approximately 64″ around, 7″ wide

Hook: I (5.50mm)

Yarn: About 360 yards of Vanna’s Choice by Lion Brand (that’s a little more than 2 skeins). Vanna’s Choice is a #4 aran yarn. The sample is shown in “Linen”.

Gauge: 5 rows of 6 HbDC = 2″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle and stitch marker

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
FSC (foundation single crochet; see tutorial here)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
HbDC (herringbone double crochet; see “special stitch” below)

Special Stitch:
HbDC – Herringbone Double Crochet. When worked in the round without turning, this stitch creates two beautiful and very different textures on either side of the piece. Here’s how you do it:

HbDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through first loop on hook. Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over again and pull the loop through both loops on the hook.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) After joining Round 1, the pattern will be worked in a continuous, seamless round (no more joining). If you need to, you may use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

Round 1: FSC 175. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first FSC, being careful not to twist the foundation round. (175)

Round 2: CH1. SC in same ST and in each of the next 2 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. HbDC in each remaining ST. Do not join. (175)

Rounds 3-17: HbDC in each ST around. (175)

Round 18: HbDC in each of the first 166 STS; 9 STS remain unworked. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 3 STS. SL ST in each of the remaining 3 STS. This will smooth down your round so that we don’t end with a jagged edge. (175)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

September 22, 2016