Category: All Free Patterns

Rustic Slouch
© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

I recently had a chance to sample some Lion’s Pride Woolspun (by Lion Brand Yarn), and boy, was I impressed!

This #5 bulky weight yarn is awesome. Sold exclusively at Michael’s stores, it’s a sturdy yarn that doesn’t split and shows stitch definition very clearly. I had been looking around for a nice bulky yarn that I could use to make a chunky version of the popular Yenni Slouch, and when I saw this yarn, I knew it would be perfect.

Just look at that stitch definition!

I went a little crazy and designed a matching scarf. It’s big, it’s chunky, and it’s adorable.

Isn’t my model adorable, too? She rocked this photo shoot.

So grab your bigger hooks and join me for a quick, trendy project that will keep your head warm all winter long!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

RUSTIC SLOUCH

Level: Easy

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 10.5” across at band, and is 10” tall.

Materials:
- N hook (9.00mm) and I hook (5.50mm)
- Yarn needle
- Lion’s Pride Woolspun (from Lion Brand), 190-200 yards. The color in the photos is Taupe.
  *About Lion’s Pride Woolspun:
  Weight: #5 Bulky
  Fiber: 80% acrylic, 20% wool
  Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 127 yd (116 m)
- Button embellishment (mine is 1″)
Gauge: With N hook, a row of 7HDC = 3″ in length.

Abbreviations Used:
CH (chain)
SK (skip)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect. View a tutorial here.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) The button is just a decorative embellishment (non-functional).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using N Hook, and leaving an 18″ tail, CH21.

Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (20)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (20)

Row 3: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (20)

Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 18 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (20)

Row 5: CH1, turn. Working in 3rd loops, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (20)

Rows 6-44: Repeat Rows 2-5, in order, until you have 44 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4).

Switch to I hook.

Row 45: CH1, DO NOT turn. Begin to SC down the LONG edge of the project, putting 5SC in each section between ribbing rows (see photo below for a visual). You should end up with 55SC. Then, CH8 to create the base of your button flap.

Row 46: Turn your work. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Continue to SC across. (62)

Rows 47-50: CH1, turn. SC across. (62)

Row 51 (edging): CH1, turn. SC across (62). Putting (SC, CH1, SC) in both corners, continue to SC around the edge of the button flap. Stop when you get here:

Sewing the hat together
Fasten off your yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a yarn needle, sew the ends of the hat together. Utilize the 3rd loop of the edge with the HDCs in order to blend the seam in so it is hardly noticeable. (A note: several of you have mentioned that it looks as though I’m seaming with a bit of an overlap according to the photo below. The photo is an unintentional optical illusion; I actually did seam the edges together with no overlap, and the “overlap” you’re seeing is actually the opposite side of the hat. So sorry for the confusion!)

Once you get to the top of the hat, make a knot and weave in the end.

Cinching the top
Turn your hat inside out. Use your starting tail to cinch the top of the hat by threading it through a yarn needle and weaving the needle in and out along the top edge of the hat at even intervals. Once you’ve gone all the way around, pull the tail tight and insert your yarn needle across the cinched area a few times to really keep it closed, then make a knot and weave in the end. Turn your hat right-side out again.

Finishing the Button Flap
We still need to sew our button flap in place and attach our button. Using a needle and appropriately-colored thread, position the button flap in place and sew along its 3 edges to secure it. Use your needle and thread to attach your button as well.
December 10, 2015
Rustic Fringe Infinity Scarf
© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

I recently had a chance to sample some Lion’s Pride Woolspun (by Lion Brand Yarn), and boy, was I impressed!

This #5 bulky weight yarn is pretty awesome. Sold exclusively at Michael’s stores, it’s a sturdy yarn that doesn’t split and shows stitch definition very clearly.

I’ve been experimenting with combining some of my favorite stitches and textures, and I’m absolutely thrilled with how this pattern came out!

It’s a double-wrapping scarf, but I think it looks beautiful hanging long, too.

The fringe is optional, but why would you not want it?

And do you want to know the best thing about this pattern?

It has a matching slouch hat!

Brand New Video Tutorial Available!

If the video below doesn’t work for you, please click here.

Video Breakdown:
3:10 – Beginning of Pattern
25:30 – Fringe
31:27 – Buttons
32:08 – Seaming
36:10 – Stitch Appendix

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

THE RUSTIC INFINITY FRINGE SCARF

Level: Easy

Size:
Scarf measures 64″ around, and is 7″ wide (not including fringe). These measurements are easily adjustable.

Materials:
- N hook (9.00mm)
- Yarn needle
- Lion’s Pride Woolspun (from Lion Brand), about 400 yards. The color in the photos is Taupe.
  *About Lion’s Pride Woolspun:
  Weight: #5 Bulky
  Fiber: 80% acrylic, 20% wool
  Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 127 yd (116 m)
- 4 button embellishments (mine are 1″), plus tools to attach buttons (needle, thread)
Gauge: With N hook, a row of 7HDC = 3″ in length.

Abbreviations Used:
CH (chain)
SK (skip)
SS (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect. Click here for tutorial.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) The buttons are just a decorative embellishment (non-functional).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using N Hook, and leaving a 12″ tail, CH151.

Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (150)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (150)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (150)

Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 148 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (150)

Row 5: CH1, turn. Working in 3rd loops, SK 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (150)

Rows 6-16: Repeat Rows 2-5, in order, until you have 16 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4). (150)

Edging
We are going to put an edging on only one end of the scarf (it isn’t necessary anywhere else). So, with your hook in the same place you left off on Row 16, CH 1. SC into the same ST again to turn the corner to the short end of the scarf. SC evenly along the edge, putting 4SC in between each ribbing row. When you get to the end of the short edge, finish it off with a CH1 and a SL ST into the same ST as your last SC. Fasten off and weave in your ends.

Fringe
We need to cut approximately 75 pieces of yarn for the fringe. Find a sturdy, thin object in your home that measures somewhere between 8-10″. I used my 9″ cutting board and it worked perfectly! Here’s how you make fringe (the numbers correspond to the photos below):

1. Wrap the yarn around the cutting board about 40 times (this will give us a little wiggle room). Wrap it snug, but don’t wrap it crazy-tight. Try to be consistent.
2. Take a good pair of scissors and carefully cut the yarn right down the center of the pile.
3. You now have a pile of yarn approximately 18″ long. Very carefully, fold it in half and cut at the halfway point again. You should now have about 80 strands of yarn.
4. Start at one end of the scarf, on the side where you began the pattern (the CH151 side). Using a crochet hook and one strand of yarn, find the first stitch. Fold the yarn in half and use the hook to pull it halfway through the space created by that first stitch. The two ends of the strand should be poking out the front of the entry point.
5. Remove your hook and insert the two ends of the strand through the loop.
6. Pull tight.
7. Continue down the scarf, adding fringe to every other stitch. This will be easy to spot, because when you did your SC+DCs, they created little spaces. Use the photo for a visual.

Button Embellishments
Use your needle and thread to attach the 4 buttons to the front of the short end of the scarf (the one that has the edging!).

Seaming
To make this an infinity scarf, we’re going to attach the ends together. Instead of doing a normal seam (where the first row is joined to the last row), we are going to overlap the edge with the buttons over the other end by about 1-2″. This will give the illusion that the buttons are holding it closed. You can use a needle and thread to sew along the edge. (I sewed the bottom layer to the underside of the top layer so that it didn’t disrupt the look of the top piece, because I’m not very good at sewing.) You could also use a sturdy fabric glue, but be sure it’s machine-washable!

That’s it, folks! I was pleasantly surprised at how stunning these stitches looked incorporated into a chunky scarf, and I hope you love it as much as I do!
December 10, 2015
Yenni Fringe Scarf
© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

When I released the patterns for the Yenni Slouch and Boot Cuffs, they were a huge hit.

I knew I wasn’t done with this stitch pattern yet, and that was reaffirmed to me when I was asked by several of you for a matching scarf pattern!

I’ve been really into fringe lately, and this is my first pattern that includes it.

I’ve been wearing this scarf everywhere. It has great drape and detailing, but the light #3 yarn makes it easy to tuck into a winter coat.

(If #3 yarn scares you like it did me when I was a crochet newbie, you can pretty easily make this scarf with #4 worsted and an appropriately sized hook, too. But I strongly encourage you to give #3 yarn a try. You might fall in love like I did!)

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

YENNI INFINITY FRINGE SCARF

Level: Easy

Size:
Scarf measures 54″ long before seaming, and 6″ wide (not including fringe)

Materials:
- H hook (5.00mm) and G hook (4.25mm)
- Yarn needle
- #3 (light) yarn, about 410-420 yards. I used 2 skeins of Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn (Sport) in “Graybeard”.
Gauge: With H hook, 4HDC = 1″

Stitches Used:
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using H Hook, and leaving a 12″ tail, CH23.

Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (22)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (22)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (22)

Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 20 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (22)

Row 5: CH1, turn. Working in 3rd loops, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (22)

Rows 6-152: Repeat Rows 2-5 in order until you have 152 total rows (or until your scarf measures approximately 54″ long), being sure to end on a repeat of Row 4. (This will help the seam look the most natural.) Fasten off your yarn and weave in the end.

Seaming
Bring the two ends of the scarf together, being careful to not twist it. Use your starting tail to whip stitch them together, utilizing the 3rd loop of the final row in order to hide the seam. Weave in the remainder of the tail securely.

Switch to G hook.

Top Band, Round 1: With G hook, reattach your yarn at the seam; CH1. SC evenly around the scarf, putting 5SC between each ribbed row, as shown below. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST.

Top Band, Rounds 2-8: CH1, turn. SC around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Fringe
We need to cut approximately 80 pieces of yarn for the fringe. Find a sturdy, thin object in your home that measures somewhere between 8-10″. I used my 9″ cutting board and it worked perfectly! Here’s how you make fringe (the numbers correspond to the photos below):

1. Wrap the yarn around the cutting board about 45 times (this will give us a little wiggle room). Wrap it snug, but don’t wrap it crazy-tight. Try to be consistent.
2. Take a good pair of scissors and carefully cut the yarn right down the center of the pile.
3. You now have a pile of yarn approximately 18″ long. Very carefully, fold it in half and cut at the halfway point again. You should now have about 90 strands of yarn.
4. Choose a starting point at the bottom of one of the ribbed rows. Using a crochet hook and one strand of yarn, fold the yarn in half and use the hook to pull it halfway through the scarf (right at the bottom). The two ends of the strand should be poking out the front of the entry point.
5. Remove your hook and insert the two ends of the strand through the loop.
6. Pull tight.
7. Continue around the scarf, adding fringe at every two rows (so you’ll add fringe at every ribbed row, as well as halfway between each ribbed row). Use the photo for a visual.

That’s it! Enjoy your cute new infinity scarf, and don’t forget to make the matching hat and boot cuffs!
December 5, 2015
Super Plush Faux-Knit Infinity Scarf

© Model Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

So there is this gorgeous classic knit scarf style that I’ve been seeing everywhere (like here), and I haven’t been able to get it out of my mind. Mostly because when I first saw it and fell in love with it, I knew I could recreate it as a crochet scarf.

It just looked so plush and warm and comfy… which is why I knew that just as important as finding the right stitches, was choosing the right yarn. There was no doubt in my mind that Cascade Yarns had what I needed!

After using Cascade’s Longwood Sport (a #3 light yarn) to create the Yenni Slouch Hat pattern, I always knew I’d use that yarn again. For this scarf, I opted instead for the #4 yarn in the same product line. When the Longwood 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool showed up on my doorstep, I was soooo happy with my decision. This yarn is so plush. Every so often I wanted to put my hook down and just bury my face in it. It’s like crocheting with bunnies. Honestly. Baby bunnies.

The best part? Even using a somewhat pricier yarn, I still spent half of what I would’ve spent buying this scarf. What do you think… can you tell the difference?

I really think you’re going to love this pattern! If you choose the right yarn, it’ll look and feel like luxury. All your friends will want to know where you bought it!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

SUPER PLUSH FAUX-KNIT INFINITY SCARF

Level: Easy
Size:  58” around, 7” wide
Gauge:  With H hook, 4HDC = 1”
Hook: H (5.0mm) – please see notes section
You’ll also need: Yarn needle
Yarn: Longwood 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool (by Cascade Yarns)*, 550-560 yards. The color in the photos is Cream.

*About Longwood 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool: 
Weight: #4 worsted
Fiber: 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool
Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 191 yds (175 m)
Gauge: 18 sts = 4″ (10 cm), US 7-8 (4.5-5 mm)

Abbreviations Used:
CH (chain)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
HDC (half double crochet)
FHDC (foundation half double crochet — optional, but recommended. View tutorial at http://goo.gl/OiU7Mb)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – The bulk of this pattern is completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect. View tutorial here.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) Be sure to choose a soft, breathable worsted weight yarn with good drape for this pattern. If you choose a heavier yarn, such as Aran, you’ll need to adjust your hook size so it doesn’t become stiff.
(3) You can make the scarf shorter or longer simply by changing the number of stitches in your starting row. There is no formula needed.
(4) CH1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Round 1: FHDC* 220, or until your foundation chain is about 54″ long (it will stretch). Join to the top of the first FHDC with a SL ST, being careful that you don’t twist the round.

*Alternate start, if you aren’t comfortable with the Foundation method: CH221. HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH (220 HDC). Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST.

Round 2: CH1, turn. In 3rd loops, HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (220)

Rounds 3-27 (or until scarf is the width you prefer: Repeat Round 2.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Pretty simple, right? Enjoy!

December 3, 2015
Comfy Squares Textured Cowl

I came up with this pattern totally out of curiosity. I’ve done so much with the “SC+DC in next, SK next” combo (like here, here and here), and one night I was sitting on the couch with a partial skein of Hobby Lobby’s “I Love This Yarn – Sport” and a G hook, trying to make up some boot cuffs with the same stitch and an added ribbed band, but it just wasn’t working. The double crochet stitch was making the rows too tall for the single crochet banding, and the fabric was getting warped instead of laying flat.

So, wondering what it would look like if I exchanged the SC+DC for SC+HDC, I frogged what I had and gave it a try.

I loved the result!

I love those stitches that look like one thing while you’re making them, and then quite a few rows in when you look at everything together, they look different. Case in point: the SC+HDC combo looked pretty similar to the SC+DC combo as I was making it, but after I had a few inches of fabric done, I noticed that as a whole, it looked like a nice, neat pattern of little textured squares. I thought it was really beautiful against the contrast of the ribbed band, too. So, I went with it — and created a brand new cowl pattern!

This cowl could be pretty easily created with worsted weight yarn as well — you would just want to adjust your stitch counts to match the cowl’s intended measurements (listed in the pattern). But I just love the look and feel of the #3 lightweight yarn. It has this beautiful drape that makes wearing it totally effortless. Anything that is “throw it on and go” is a winner in my book.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

COMFY SQUARES TEXTURED COWL

Size:  Cowl measures 30″ around and is 12″ tall.
Gauge:  With H hook, 5SC = 1” in length
Hook: H (5.0mm)
Yarn: 420-430 yards of #3 (light) yarn (such as Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn Sport)
You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) It is crocheted as a flat piece, then seamed at the end.
(3) CH1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.
(4) The phrase “(SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 21 times” means 21 times total.
(5) Only crochet in BLO (back loops only) when specifically instructed. So for instance, here is Row 2, with only the BLO stitches in purple:

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 21 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in last ST. (54)

(The reason we don’t put the very first and last STS of the row in BLO is because it helps keep the edge nice and neat-looking.)

PATTERN

To begin:
CH55.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in each of the next 7 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 21 times. SC in each of the last 4 STS. (54)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 21 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in last ST. (54)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 21 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in last ST. (54)

Rows 4-113 (or until piece measures 30″ in length): Repeat rows 2-3. (54)

Fasten off, leaving a 36″ tail. Use your yarn needle and finishing tail to seam both ends of the cowl together. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

November 28, 2015
Snow Capped Slouch Hat
© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Special thanks to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

I have another new slouch pattern for you! This one is simple, but it has a eye-catching spiral design that adds a lot of visual interest.

The Yarn

I’ve been a fan of Lion Brand’s Heartland Yarn for a while. It’s a lighter worsted weight acrylic yarn that comes in a range of beautiful, natural colors, all of which have just the right amount of sheen. My stores don’t carry the full range of colors, so I was very excited when Lion Brand sent me some shades that I’d never seen before. For this hat, I used a color called “Katmai.” Click here to view all the colors available. It was the combination of the color of the yarn and the design of the hat that made me think of snow capped mountains, so that’s how I got the name for the pattern!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

The Snowcapped Slouch Hat

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures about 9.5” across at band, and 9.5” tall.

Materials:
- Hook sizes K (6.5mm), H(5.0mm)
- Yarn needle
- 150-160 yards of worsted weight yarn (I used Lion Brand Heartland in “Katmai”)
- Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)
Gauge:
With H hook, 6 HDC x 4 rows = 1.5” square

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SS (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC2TOG (single crochet 2 together)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This hat is worked in a continuous spiral. Do not join at the end of each round and do not chain at the beginning of rounds unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the last stitch of each round.
(3) The CH2s that create the holes in the hat still count as stitches. Keep this in mind when checking your stitch count, and when you reach Round 24 where it tells you to SC in the next 6 stitches (the CH2 counts as the first 2 of the 6).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Using K Hook, begin with magic circle.

Round 1: 10 HDC in magic circle (10)

Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around (20)

Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around (40)

Round 4: (2 HDC in next ST, 1 HDC in next ST) around (60)

Round 5: (2 HDC in next ST, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 STS) around (80)

Switch to H hook.

Round 6: (CH2, SK 2 STS, HDC in each of the next 8 STS) around. (80)

Rounds 7-23: Repeat Round 6.

Round 24: (SC in each of the next 6 STS; SC2TOG) around. (72)

Rounds 25-33: SC around.

Slip Stitch into the next 3 STS to smooth down the round, then fasten off and weave in ends.
November 9, 2015
Snowdrift Slouch Hat
© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Winter is coming! Even though I can still see bright red leaves on the tree in my front yard, I just know (especially living in Michigan) that any day now, I could wake up to a few inches of snow and single-digit temperatures. Snowdrifts are a common occurrence in my part of the country, and this hat reminds me of them.

This is a pretty simple slouchy hat pattern that’s worked in rows and cinched at the end. You might even learn a new stitch – the Double Crochet Cluster Stitch! (See pattern notes.)–

The Yarn

I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in “White” for my sample. Vanna’s Choice is one of those yarns that I’ve been using since I first learned to crochet. Most craft stores stock it well, and the color choices are really nice. Click here to view the color options.

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THE SNOWDRIFT SLOUCH HAT

Level: Easy

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 10” across at band, and is 9.5” tall.

Materials:
- I hook (5.50mm)
- About 200 yards (<2 skeins) of Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice* (Sample color: White)
  *About Vanna’s Choice:
  Fiber Content: 100% Premium Acrylic
  Weight/Yardage: 100 g / 170 yds
  Crochet Gauge: 12 sc + 15 rows = 4″ (10 cm) on size J-10 (6 mm) hook
- Yarn Needle
Gauge:
With I hook, 7 HDC = 2″ square

Abbreviations Used:
CH (chain)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
SC (single crochet)
2DCCL (2 Double Crochet Cluster Stitch – see Special Stitch, below)
SC+2DCCL (this just means to put 1 SC and 1 2DCCL in the same stitch)

Special Stitch
2DCCL – 2 Double Crochet Cluster Stitch. To complete:
(YO, insert hook, draw up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops) twice; YO, pull through remaining 3 loops.

Notes:
(1) This hat is worked in rows and cinched at the end.
(2) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(3) Starting chains do not count as stitches.
(4) The band of the hat is worked in seamless rounds. Do not join or turn at the end of rounds. Use a stitch marker if needed.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using I Hook, and leaving a 12″ tail, CH23. Don’t weave in the tail until instructed (we’ll use it later to cinch the hat).

Row 1: In 3rd CH from hook, SC+2DCCL. (SK next ST, SC+2DCCL in next ST) across. (22)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+2DCCL in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+2DCCL in next ST) across. (22)

Rows 3-48: Repeat Row 2.

Next we’re going to seam the hat. Fasten off, leaving a 12″ tail. Lay the piece out flat, then fold the short sides in toward each other. Use the tail and a yarn needle to whip stitch the two short ends together, as shown.

Fasten off the tail you just used, and weave in its end.

Next, we’re going to cinch the top of the hat. Turn it inside out (whichever side has the most obvious seam should be exposed). Thread your starting tail through your yarn needle and weave it in and out around the very top of the hat. (The smaller your weave, the nicer finish the top of the hat will have.)

After cinching, it should look like this:

Pull the tail tight to draw the cinch closed, tie a couple of knots, and fasten off and weave in the end.

Band of the Hat

Now, we’re going to add a nice thick band to our slouch hat. Turn your hat right-side out and reattach your yarn at the base of the hat, at the seam. We’re doing this with the seamless method, which means we aren’t joining at the end of rounds. If you need to, you can use a stitch marker or bobby pin to mark the last SC of each round so you don’t get lost.

Round 1: CH1. SC evenly around, 3SC per ridge*. (Approx. 72, give or take a couple)
*We’re going to SC evenly around the hat, so let’s take a look at what we have to work with. The ridges on the hat will be how we keep track of our stitches. We want to put 3SC in each ridge. I chose to put the first SC in the “valley”, and the next 2 SC evenly spaced on the “hilltop”. Take a look at this photo for guidance on where your SCs should go:

Rounds 2-8: SC evenly around.

To finish, SL ST into the next 3 SCs to smooth out the round. Fasten off and weave in ends.
November 2, 2015
Maribel Slouch
© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Thank you to Lion Brand for providing the yarn for this pattern sample.

Last winter, I released a pattern set – the Maribel Cowl and Boot Cuffs. They are still some of my favorite patterns from that season!

So this year, I decided to do what I always meant to do, but never got around to… designing a matching hat.

This slouch is worked differently from my other slouch hats, in that it’s worked flat and then cinched (as opposed to being worked in the round). This enables us to get vertical stitch work that you can’t get when you work a hat in the round. Cinching it up at the end is easy, and I’ve provided photos for you in the pattern.
–

The Yarn

I used Lion Brand Heartland in “Grand Canyon” for my sample. Heartland is one of my go-to worsted weight yarns. It has a beautiful sheen to it, it’s lightweight, and the color choices are gorgeous. You might recognize it in some of my other patterns, like the Sandy Slouch & Cowl Set.

Click the photo to view this yarn on Craftsy.

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This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

THE MARIBEL SLOUCH HAT

Level: Easy

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 9.5” across at band (when laid flat), and is 9.5” tall.

Materials:
- I hook (5.50mm)
- Yarn needle
- About 210 yards of Lion Brand Heartland* (Sample color: Grand Canyon)
  *About Heartland:
  Weight: #4 worsted
  Fiber: 100% Acrylic
  Yardage: 5oz/142g (251yd/230m)
  Gauge: 12 sc + 15 rows = 4 inches on size J-10 [6 mm] hook
- 7 small buttons (I used 1/2″)
Gauge:
With I hook, 10 rows of 7 SC = 2″ square

Stitches Used:
CH (chain)
SS (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
RibHDC (also known as Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC; see Special Stitch, below)

Special Stitch:
RibHDC – instead of putting your HDC in the top loops, find the 3rd loop. Because we’re working in turned rows, the third loop will be located just underneath the front loop. Insert your hook there and create your HDC. This forces both of the top loops to rest on the front of your project, creating a ribbing effect. It is also referred to as a Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC. (Confused? You can view a photo tutorial here.)

Notes:
(1) This hat is worked in rows and cinched at the end.
(2) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(3) Starting chains do not count as stitches.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using I Hook, and leaving a 12″ tail, CH27. Don’t weave in the tail until instructed (we’ll use it later to cinch the hat).

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each ST across. (26)

Rows 2-6: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (26)

Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (26)

Rows 8-64: CH1, turn. RibHDC in each ST across. (26)

We are now going to begin working along the long edge of our project to create the band of the hat.

Row 65: CH1. Working along the long edge, SC across. Put 1SC in each row, for a total of 64SC. (64)

Rows 66-76: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across.

Edging: CH1, turn. SC evenly around the entire project, putting (SC, CH1, SC) in each corner. Fasten off, leaving a 12″ tail.

At this point, your project should look like this:

Seaming the Hat

Use your finishing tail to whip stitch the two short ends together, then fasten off and weave it in.

Cinching the Hat

Turn your hat inside out. Thread your starting tail through the yarn needle and weave it in and out of every other SC along the top edging of the hat. (I’ve highlighted my yarn needle in yellow in the photos below.) When you’re done, pull it tight to cinch the hat (but carefully… you don’t want to break the yarn!). Use the yarn needle to reach across the cinch a few times to make sure it’s closed up nice and tight, then make a knot and weave in the tail. Turn your hat right side out.

Sew your buttons along that very first section of SC rows, extending them down across the band of the hat, too.
October 26, 2015
Half-‘n-Half Slouch Hat
© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Thank you to Lion Brand for providing the yarn for this pattern sample.

Today’s pattern is extra special, because I partnered with a fellow crochet blogger to bring you a set!

Krista of Rescued Paw Designs has designed matching boot cuffs for the Half & Half Slouch, and I love them. Both patterns are simple and trendy, and they’ll be great together for those chilly days. My pattern is at the bottom of this post, as always. Click here to view the Half & Half Boot Cuffs pattern on Krista’s blog, and don’t forget to go Like her on Facebook!

This hat utilizes the crochet-flat-then-cinch-together method. To change it up, I crocheted half of it in one stitch pattern and half of it in another. It’s a fun hat with a nice fit and just the right amount of slouch.

The Yarn

I used Lion Brand Heartland in “Mammoth Cave” for my sample. Heartland is one of my go-to worsted weight yarns. It has a beautiful sheen to it, it’s lightweight, and the color choices are gorgeous. You might recognize it in some of my other patterns, like the Sandy Slouch & Cowl Set.

Click the photo to view this yarn on Craftsy.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

THE HALF-‘N-HALF SLOUCH

Level: Easy

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 10” across at band, and is 9.5” tall.

Materials:
- I hook (5.50mm)
- About 190 yards of Lion Brand Heartland* (Sample color: Mammoth Cave)
  *About Heartland:
  Weight: #4 worsted
  Fiber: 100% Acrylic
  Yardage: 5oz/142g (251yd/230m)
  Gauge: 12 sc + 15 rows = 4 inches on size J-10 [6 mm] hook
- Yarn Needle
Gauge:
With I hook, 7 HDC = 2″ square

Abbreviations Used:
CH (chain)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+DC (this just means to put 1SC and 1DC in the same stitch)

Notes:
(1) This hat is worked in rows and cinched at the end.
(2) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(3) Starting chains do not count as stitches.
(4) As you work, you might begin to notice that your piece isn’t a perfect rectangle, and the bottom half lays at a slight angle – this is ok.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using I Hook, and leaving a 12″ tail, CH35. Don’t weave in the tail until instructed (we’ll use it later to cinch the hat).

Row 1: In 3rd CH from hook, SC+DC. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) 9 times. HDC in each of the next 14 STS. (34)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 14 STS. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) 10 times. (34)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) 9 times. HDC in each of the next 14 STS. (34)

Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 14 STS. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) 10 times. (34)

Rows 5-62: Repeat Rows 3 & 4 until you have 62 rows. (34)

Row 63: Repeat Row 3. (34)

We are now going to work along the long edge of our project to put a nice edging on the band of the hat.

Row 64: CH1, do not turn. Working along the long edge, SC across, putting 1SC in each row, for a total of 63SC. When you’re done, your starting and ending tails should be in the same corner. (63)

Lay your project flat, with the starting and ending tails at the bottom left corner. At this point, your project should look like this:

Fasten off your finishing tail and weave it in.

Seaming the Hat

Turn your hat inside out. Use a yarn needle and your starting tail, whip stitch the two short ends together (see photo below). Now, we’re going to keep using this tail to cinch the top of the hat too, and we don’t want the seam to pull when we pull the cinch tight — so tie a knot or two at the top of the hat.

Cinching the Hat

Keeping your hat inside out, weave your starting tail in and out along the top edge of the hat. When you’re done, pull it tight to cinch the hat (but carefully… you don’t want to break the yarn!). Use the yarn needle to reach across the cinch a few times to make sure it’s closed up nice and tight, then make a knot and weave in the tail. Turn your hat right side out.

Done!
October 20, 2015
Yenni Boot Cuffs
© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

When I completed the pattern for the Yenni Slouch (that’s pronounced like the English “Jenny”, by the way), I had a good amount of Cascade Yarns Longwood Sport left over. So naturally, I decided to make some matching boot cuffs. I am so glad I did… I think they’re the perfect compliment to the hat!

What I really love about these boot cuffs is that, thanks to the #3 weight yarn, they don’t feel as bulky as your standard worsted weight boot cuff patterns tend to. They slip under your boot almost like a super soft, thick sock.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

THE YENNI BOOT CUFFS

Level: Easy

Size:
Small (but easily adjustable) – cuffs measure about 5″ tall and 12″ around

Materials:
- G hook (4.25mm)
- Cascade Yarns Longwood Sport*, 190-200 yards. The color in the photos is Doeskin Heather.
  *About Longwood Sport:
  Weight: #3 light
  Fiber: 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool
  Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 273 yds (250 m)
  Gauge: 22-24 sts = 4″ (10 cm), US 5-6 (3.75-4.0mm)
- Yarn needle
- 2 buttons (1″ or smaller), plus tools to attach buttons to boot cuffs
Gauge: With G hook, 9HDC = 2″

Stitches Used:
CH (chain)
SS (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) Because of the button flap embellishment and the fact that we want it to be on opposing sides of the cuffs (so that it is visible on the outer sides of the wearer’s legs), we have to construct the two cuffs a little differently. Please note that there are two patterns below, one for each cuff.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

CUFF #1

To begin:
CH19.

Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

Row 3: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 16 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (18)

Row 5: CH1, turn. In 3rd loop, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

Rows 6-44: Repeat Rows 2-5 in order until you have 44 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4). (18)

Note: If you want to make larger boot cuffs, continue to repeat rows 2-5 until they are the width you desire. For best results, make sure you still end on a repeat of Row 4.

Row 45: CH1, DO NOT turn. Begin to SC down the LONG edge of the project, putting 5SC in each section between ribbing rows (see photo below for a visual). You should end up with 55SC (unless you decided to make your boot cuffs larger – this is fine). Then, CH 7.

Row 46: Turn your work. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Continue to SC across. (61)

Rows 47-50: CH1, turn. SC across. (61)

Row 51 (edging): CH1, turn. SC across (61). Putting (SC, CH1, SC) in both corners, continue to SC around the edge of the button flap. Stop when you get here (please note that this photo is actually from the Yenni Slouch pattern, which is why the band looks so wide, but it’s the same concept):

Sewing the boot cuff closed
Fasten off your yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a yarn needle, sew the ends of the cuff together. Utilize the 3rd loop of the edge with the HDCs in order to blend the seam in so it is hardly noticeable (again, this photo is from the Yenni Slouch pattern, but same concept):

Once you get to the bottom of the cuff, make a knot, fasten off and weave in all ends.

Optional Lower Edging: The bottom of the boot cuffs won’t show, but I like my projects to have a nice finished look, especially if I’m planning on selling them. If you want to give your boot cuffs a clean, finished look as well, go ahead and reattach your yarn, and add a row or two of SC around the bottom edge of the cuff, following the “5SC between each ribbing section” rule of thumb you used in Row 45. Fasten off and weave in your ends.

Use a needle and thread to sew your button flap in place, then attach your button.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

CUFF #2

Please note, Rows 1-44 are identical to Cuff #1.

To begin:
Leaving a 12″ starting tail (to use later), CH19.

Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

Row 3: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 16 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (18)

Row 5: CH1, turn. In 3rd loop, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

Rows 6-44: Repeat Rows 2-5 in order until you have 44 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4). (18)

Note: If you increased the width of Cuff #1, make sure you do the same with Cuff #2.

Row 45: Ch7. You are now going to begin working down the long side of your cuff. SC in 2nd CH from hook, and in each remaining CH. Then continue to SC down the long edge, putting 5SC in each section between ribbing rows (see photo from Cuff #1 for a visual).

Rows 46-50: CH1, turn. SC across. (61)

Row 51 (edging): Fasten off and weave in the end. Then, attach your yarn in the inner corner of the button flap, as shown below, and – working on the right side of the boot cuff (the side with the ribbing) – SC around the button flap and across the length of the cuff, putting (SC,CH1,SC) in each corner. When you reach the other end, fasten off.

Sewing the boot cuff closed
Using a yarn needle and your starting tail, sew the ends of the cuff together. Utilize the 3rd loop of the edge with the HDCs in order to blend the seam in so it is hardly noticeable. (See photo from Cuff #1 for help.)

Make a knot, fasten off and weave in all ends.

Optional Lower Edging: The bottom of the boot cuffs won’t show, but I like my projects to have a nice finished look, especially if I’m planning on selling them. If you want to give your boot cuffs a clean, finished look as well, go ahead and reattach your yarn, and add a row or two of SC around the bottom edge of the cuff, following the “5SC between each ribbing section” rule of thumb you used in Row 45. Fasten off and weave in your ends.

Use a needle and thread to sew your button flap in place, then attach your button.
October 13, 2015