Category: All Free Patterns

Chunky Ribbed Infinity Scarf

The Chunky Ribbed Infinity Scarf is great practice for your Half Double Crochet stitch, but working in the back loops only (BLO) gives it a more interesting surface and adds visual depth.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

CHUNKY RIBBED INFINITY SCARF

Hook: P (11.50mm)
Yarn: Super Bulky (I used 3 skeins of Lion Brand’s “Hometown USA”)
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: Not crucial, but a row of 8 HDC = about 5″
Finished Size: Approximately 52″ around, 8″ wide

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is a great candidate for the Chainless Foundation method, if you’re comfortable with it. If you haven’t learned it, there is a helpful tutorial here.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: Ch 83.

Round 1: HDC in 2nd chain from hook. HDC across. Bring ends together, being careful not to twist the chain. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the first HDC.
(You can also do a chainless foundation stitch (FHDC) for the first row of 82 HDC. If you don’t know how to do this, check out this tutorial. It will change your life. Be sure to join the FHDC, and don’t twist it in the meantime.)

Round 2: Ch1, turn. In BLO (Back Loops Only), HDC around. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the first HDC.

Rounds 3-10 (or until scarf is about 8″ wide): Ch1, turn. In BLO, HDC around. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the first HDC.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

December 9, 2014
Grit Stitch Infinity Scarf

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

GRIT STITCH INFINITY SCARF

Hook: P (11.50mm)
Yarn: Super Bulky (I used 3 skeins of Lion Brand’s “Hometown USA”)
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: Not crucial, but a row of 4 (sc,dc, sk next st) combos = about 6″
Finished Size: Approximately 58″ around, 7.5″ wide

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round. Do not join or chain except when instructed. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of your rounds.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: Ch 81.

Row 1: SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each St across. Bring ends together, being careful not to twist the chain, and join with a slip stitch to the top of the first SC.

Round 2 (We will now work in seamless rounds): Do not chain. Skip the first St. (SC+DC in next St, Sk next St) around.

Rounds 3-9 (or until scarf is about 7.5″ wide): (SC+DC in next St, Sk next St) around. (Wondering if your placement is correct? Your SC+DC combos should be completed in loops from each SC from previous row, with each DC from previous row being left empty.)

Slip Stitch into the next 3 stitches to smooth out the row, then fasten off and weave in ends.

December 9, 2014
Wildflower Granny Square No. 1
Today I am excited to be joining The Blog Hop Crochet Along! Nine other bloggers and I are teaming up to release a new afghan square pattern every day for a month. Crochet along with us and you will have a gorgeous new afghan just in time for the holiday season!

Here’s how it is going to work:
- Every day (M-F) a new square pattern will be posted on one of our ten blogs.
- You can join in the fun by crocheting each day’s square on that day whenever you have time.
- Share your progress and post photos of your squares in our facebook group.
- By the end of the Crochet Along you will have twenty 12″ squares all ready to be pieced together into a beautiful afghan just in time for the holiday season.
- Finally, we will be hosting some fabulous giveaways! You could win Lion Brand yarn to make your own afghan, $100 CASH money, OR our COMPLETED AFGHAN! That’s right, we are going to be piecing all of our squares together and shipping an afghan out to one very lucky winner.
Hopeful Honey – Persia Lou – Little Monkeys Crochet
Fiber Flux – Loopsan One Dog Woof – Maybe Matilda
Dream a Little Bigger – Whistle & Ivy – Gleeful Things

—
—

Today I am sharing the 12″ Wildflower Granny Square [No. 1]. This is a modified version of my much smaller Wildflower Granny Square. You can find links to all the other participating patterns at the end of this post. The links will be updated daily!

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

12″ WILDFLOWER GRANNY SQUARE [NO. 1]

Finished Size: About 12″ square
Abbreviations Used:
- Ch – Chain
- Sl St – Slip Stitch
- SC – Single Crochet
- HDC – Half Double Crochet
- DC – Double Crochet
- TR- Treble (or Triple) Crochet
- FLO – Front Loops Only
- BLO- Back Loops Only
- BPDC – Back Post Double Crochet
Yarn: Medium worsted (I used Wool-Ease from Lion Brand)
Hook: Size H (5.00mm)
Notes:
(1) Pattern is written in American standard terms.
(2) The square is built around the flower (so the flower will not need to be attached at the end).
(3) Beginning chains do NOT count as the first stitch in the final row count. When joining, you’ll slip stitch to the top of the first stitch (not the chain).
(4) I’ve included [New Color] in the pattern whenever I chose to change colors. I think it looks cleaner to attach a new color before joining at the end of a row, but you do what’s familiar to you. The Lion Brand Wool-Ease colors I used in the photo above, in order of introduction, are Seaspray, Natural Heather, and Eggplant.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE FLOWER:

Begin with a Magic Circle.

Round 1: Ch1. 12 HDC in Magic Circle. Join to the top of the first HDC with a Sl St. (12)

Round 2: Ch1; 2 HDC in same. 2 HDC in next and in each St around. [New Color] Join to the top of the first HDC with a Sl St. (24)

Round 3 (work this round in BLO): Ch2; 2 DC in same, DC in next. (2 DC in next, DC in next) around. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (36)

Round 4: Ch2; 2 DC in same, DC in each of the next 2 Sts. (2 DC in next, DC in each of the next 2 Sts) around. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (48)

The next round is worked in 2 parts: the petals, and then the base behind it. Just follow the instructions and you’ll be fine. 🙂

Round 5, Part 1 (work this round in FLO): Ch3; DC in same St, 2 TR in next, 2 TR in next, DC in next, Ch3 and Sl St to same St as DC. You’ve completed one petal. (Sl St to the next St. Ch3, DC in same, 2 TR in next, 2 TR in next, DC in next, Ch3 and Sl St to same St as DC.) around. Sl St to first St of the round.

It helps, at this point, to fasten off and weave in all ends; then, proceed with the next instructions.

THE SQUARE:

Turn flower over. Attach [New Color] yarn via one of the loops on the back side of the finished flower, as in Figure 1, below. (Remember in Round 5, Part 1 when we worked in FLO? The loop we didn’t use is the loop we’re using now.)

Round 5, Part 2: Ch2; 2 DC in same, DC in each of the next 3 Sts. (2 DC in next, DC in each of the next 3 Sts) around. (see figures 2 and 3). Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (60)

Round 6: Ch2. In same St: 2 DC, Ch2, 2 DC (first corner). DC in each of the next 2 Sts. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. SC in each of the next 4 Sts. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. DC in each of the next 2 Sts. (In next St: 2 DC, Ch2, 2 DC. DC in each of the next 2 Sts. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. SC in each of the next 4 Sts. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. DC in each of the next 2 Sts.) Repeat ( ) 2 more times. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St.

Round 7: Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. [New Color] Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 22 DCs on each side.)

Round 8: Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. [New Color] Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 26 DCs on each side.)

Round 9: Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 30 DCs on each side.)

Round 10 (note the change to BPDC): Ch2. BPDC in same St and in each St around, but when you come to corner spaces, simply CH2; then begin with your BPDCs across the next side. [New Color] Join to the top of the first BPDC with a Sl St.(When you complete this round, there should be 30 BPDCs on each side.)

Round 11: Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. [New Color] Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 34 DCs on each side.)

Round 12: Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 38 DCs on each side.)

Fasten off and weave in ends.
November 10, 2014
Olivia’s Preemie Hat

This is my first year participating in the 12 Days of Christmas NICU Hat Challenge, and I am so honored to be a part of such an awesome and inspiring project! The challenge for the designers was to come up with a preemie hat pattern that relied on texture or color change for originality. (NICU babies, and hospital babies in general, are not allowed to have any kind of embellishment on their hats due to the potential for choking).

(By the way, if you want to join this awesome challenge starting November 20, 2014, either follow me on Facebook or sign up for my email list (under the main menu). When the challenge begins, you’ll know about it!)

As I started thinking about how to make my hat, I did quite a bit of reading on NICU hats. I learned that NICU wards go through hats like crazy. In an environment where even the mildest germs can make a tiny newborn take a turn for the worse, any hat that falls off a baby’s head and onto the floor cannot be put back on. So one little baby can go through multiple hats in a day. Doesn’t that put it in perspective for you? It does for me! NICU wards need these donations.

Another thing to keep in mind as you get ready to make preemie hats is that your yarn needs to be super soft. This isn’t the time to use Super Saver yarn. I made my hats with Bernat Satin, which is comparable in weight and feel to Caron Simply Soft. (Actually, the coral hat in the photos is Simply Soft.) I prefer Bernat Satin, but they both worked well for this project.

I found a chart online that showed the different hat sizes needed for the various weights of premature babies. I was only going to choose one to make a pattern for, but it went so quick that I decided to go ahead and make up all 4 sizes. So, below you’ll find patterns for 1-2 lbs, 2-3.5 lbs, 3.5-5 lbs, and 5-6 lbs.

I named my pattern after my niece, Olivia, who spent a few days in the NICU herself due to water on her lungs, low oxygen levels, anemia, and a few other issues. (That’s her in the photo, modeling a big-girl version of this pattern.) I remember visiting the day after she was born and seeing the exhaustion and fear in my sister’s eyes. Olivia wasn’t in a life-threatening situation, but even that (relatively) short stay in NICU was enough to completely overwhelm that new mommy, who had a husband in the middle of nursing school finals and a toddler son who needed her at home. It made me realize that every single family in the NICU has a story; from the babies who only stay a few days, to the tiniest newborns who fight for their lives for months or more, each new mommy and daddy goes through an emotional struggle that I know cannot even be imagined by those of us who have not experienced it.

I hope that every single hat that is made during this challenge will be a small blessing to the family whose little one wears it. (Even if it’s only for 5 minutes before it falls on the floor!)

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Quick note: One of my wonderful readers mentioned that her local hospital does not use homemade hats on the smallest babies. It’s probably a good idea to contact the hospital you’re going to donate to, and find out if they have any special policies as well!

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

OLIVIA’S PREEMIE HAT

Skill Level: Easy
Finished Sizes: Listed on individual patterns
Gauge: The first 3 rounds of the sizes worked with an H hook should measure 2.5” across. The first 3 rounds of the sizes worked with an I hook should measure 2.75” across.
Stitches Used: Magic Circle, SC, HDC, DC, Sl St
Yarn: <1oz (per hat) of your favorite soft worsted weight yarn. (I used Bernat Satin and Caron Simply Soft.)
Hooks: Sizes H (5.0mm) or I (5.50mm) depending on which size you are making.
Notions: Yarn needle and stitch marker

Notes:
Pattern is written in American standard terms.
Pattern is worked in a seamless round. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each row.

– – – – – – –

SIZE 1-2 LBS

(4” width when laid flat)

Hook Size: H (5.0mm)

Begin with a Magic Circle.
Row 1: Ch1. 10 HDC in Magic Circle. (10)
Row 2: 2 HDC in each St around. (20)
Row 3: (2 HDC in next St, HDC in next) around. (30)
Row 4: Sk 1^st St. (SC+DC) in next. Place your stitch marker in the SC to mark beginning of the row. (Sk next St; SC+DC in next) around, 13 times. Leave the last St empty.
Row 5: (SC+DC in next St, Sk next St) around.
Rows 6-8: Repeat Row 5.
Rows 9-11: SC around.

Slip stitch into the first stitch of the previous row, fasten off and weave in ends.

– – – – – – –

SIZE 2-3.5 LBS

(4.5” width when laid flat)

Hook Size: I (5.5mm)

**Follow instructions for Size 1-2 lbs pattern, using an I hook instead of an H hook.**

– – – – – – –

SIZE 3.5-5 LBS

(5” width when laid flat)

Hook Size: H (5.0mm)

Begin with a Magic Circle.
Row 1: Ch1. 10 HDC in Magic Circle. (10)
Row 2: 2 HDC in each St around. (20)
Row 3: (2 HDC in next St, HDC in next) around. (30)
Row 4: (2 HDC in next St, HDC in next 5 Sts) around. (35)
Row 5: Sk 1^st St. (SC+DC in next St, Sk next St) around.
Row 6: (SC+DC in next St, Sk next St) around.
Rows 7-9: Repeat Row 6.
Rows 10-12: SC around.

Slip stitch into the first stitch of the previous row, fasten off and weave in ends.

– – – – – – –

SIZE 5-6 LBS

(5.5” width when laid flat)

Hook Size: I (5.5mm)

Begin with a Magic Circle.
Row 1: Ch1. 10 HDC in Magic Circle. (10)
Row 2: 2 HDC in each St around. (20)
Row 3: (2 HDC in next St, HDC in next) around. (30)
Row 4: (2 HDC in next St, HDC in next 2 Sts) around. (40)
Row 5: Sk 1^st St. (SC+DC) in next. Place your stitch marker in the SC to mark beginning of the row. (Sk next St; SC+DC in next) around, 19 times. Leave the last St empty.
Row 6: (SC+DC in next St; Sk next St) around.
Rows 7-9: Repeat Row 6.
Rows 10-13: SC around.

Slip stitch into the first stitch of the previous row, fasten off and weave in ends.

November 5, 2014
Polar Bear Hat (6-12m)

Brrrrr!

I can already feel the weather changing here in Michigan. Soon we’ll be bundling ourselves up like eskimos to go outside. What better way to finish off your cold-weather ensemble than a cute polar bear hat?

Get the Full Pattern

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

POLAR BEAR HAT (SIZE 6-12 MONTHS)

Finished Size: Approximately 8.25″ wide x 5.75″ tall
Stitches Used: Ch, Sl St, SC, HDC, SC2TOG, HDC2TOG
Yarn: Medium, worsted weight yarn, 1 skein of white (such as RED HEART With Love), and bulky fur-like yarn, 1 skein of white (such as RED HEART Buttercup)
Hooks: Size I (5.50mm) for base, and size H (5.00mm) for features
Notes: Pattern is written in American standard terms.
Gauge: With 5.5mm (US I-9) hook, 4 rounds = 3.5 in (9 cm). CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge.

The Ch1 at the beginning of rounds DOES NOT count as a stitch.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

BASE (WORKED IN CONTINUOUS ROUNDS; USE STITCH MARKER TO MARK BEGINNING OF ROUNDS)

With I HOOK, begin with a Magic Circle (MC).

Round 1: Ch 1; 10 HDC in MC. (10)
Round 2: (2 HDC in next St) around. (20)
Round 3: (2 HDC in next St, HDC in next St) around. (30)
Round 4: (2 HDC in next St, HDC in next 2 Sts) around. (40)
Round 5: (2 HDC in next St, HDC in next 3 Sts) around. (50)
Rounds 6-15: HDC around. (50)

DO NOT fasten off; continue to “Earflaps” instructions.

EARFLAPS (WORKED IN ROWS)

With I HOOK,

Row 1: Sl St to next St. Ch 1, SC in same St and in next 8 Sts; Ch 1, turn. (9)
Row 2: SC across; Ch 1, turn. (9)
Row 3: SC across; Ch 1, turn. (9)
Row 4: SC2TOG, SC in next 5 Sts, SC2TOG; Ch 1, turn. (7)
Row 5: SC across; Ch 1, turn. (7)
Row 6: SC2TOG, SC in next 3 Sts, SC2TOG; Ch 1, turn. (5)
Row 7: HDC2TOG, DC, HDC2TOG (3)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

To complete 2^nd earflap, beginning at the base of the first earflap (the opposite side from which you started), and continuing on across the front of the hat, count over 19 Sts. Attach yarn. Ch 1, SC in same St and in next 8 Sts; Ch 1, turn. Repeat Rows 2-7 above.

DO NOT fasten off; continue on to “Edging” instructions.

EDGING (WORKED IN JOINED ROUNDS)

With I HOOK,

Round 1: Ch 1. SC in same St and in each St around, working evenly along sides of earflaps, and including an extra SC at the tip of each earflap. Join with a Sl St into the first SC. Fasten off; weave in ends.
Round 2: Switch to FUR YARN. Attach yarn to a St at the back of the hat; Ch1. SC in same St and in each St around, adding an extra SC at the tip of each earflap. Join with a Sl St into the first SC. Fasten off; weave in ends.

EARS (MAKE 2; WORKED IN CONTINUOUS ROUNDS)

With H HOOK, begin with a Magic Circle (MC).

Round 1: Ch 1; 6 HDC in MC. (6)
Round 2: (2 HDC in next St) around. (12)
Round 3: (2 HDC in next St, HDC in next St) around. (18)
Round 4: (2 HDC in next St, HDC in next 2 Sts) around. (24)
Round 5: HDC around. (24)
Round 6: HDC2TOG around. (12)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for attaching to hat.

SNOUT

With H HOOK, begin with a Magic Circle (MC).

Round 1: Ch 1; 8 SC in MC. (8)
Round 2: (2 SC in next St) around. (16)
Round 3: (2 SC in next St, SC in next St) around. (24)
Rounds 4-5: SC around. (24)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for attaching to hat.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

Nose: Cut a rounded triangle nose from black felt. (Templates available with full pattern purchase.) Sew to snout using black thread (or attach with washable fabric glue), placing the bottom point of the nose on the center of the snout.

Snout: Using long tail, begin to sew the snout to the hat, placing the bottom of the snout just above the fur edging. (Tip: Use a pin to hold the top of the snout centered in place so your snout doesn’t end up off-centered.) Stuff it with a small amount of polyester fiberfill before closing it up completely.

Ears: Flatten hat. Using long tail, sew ears to either side of hat. The top of the ears should attach at Round 5. (The photos below are only to help you understand how to fold the ears. The size shown below is not 6-12m, so do not depend on it for feature placement.)

Eyes: Using thread and a sewing needle, attach two ½ inch buttons just above the snout, using the photo as a guide.

Tassels (optional): For each tassel, use 6 pieces of white yarn and 3 pieces of fur yarn.

September 23, 2014
Sock Monkey Hat

It’s finally done!

I wish I could put into words for you what the completion of this pattern means to me. Not only is this the first multi-sized pattern I’ve created, but it’s also the first hat I ever made for my littlest monkey (although it has admittedly improved over the last couple of years).

I am crazy excited to debut this hat. C-R-A-Z-Y.

I’m going to share the 6-12 month size with you here, for free, because you rock. Seriously, I never thought I could actually be a blogger, but you guys have supported, encouraged, and challenged me (in a good way!) every step of the way.

Get the Full Pattern

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

SOCK MONKEY HAT (SIZE 6-12 MONTHS)

Finished Size: Approximately 8.25″ wide x 5.75″ tall
Stitches Used: Ch, Sl St, SC, HDC, SC2TOG, HDC2TOG
Yarn: 3 colors of medium worsted, plus small amount of black and red for mouth (I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn)
Hooks: Size I (5.50mm) for base, and size H (5.00mm) for features
Notes: Pattern is written in American standard terms.
Gauge: With 5.5mm (US I-9) hook, 4 rounds = 3.5 in (9 cm). CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge.

The Ch1 at the beginning of rounds DOES NOT count as a stitch.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

BASE (WORKED IN THE ROUND)

With I HOOK and COLOR A, begin with a Magic Circle (MC).

Round 1: Ch 1; 9 HDC in MC. Join with Sl St to top of first HDC. (9)
Round 2: Ch 1; HDC in same St. 2 HDC in next 9 Sts. Join with Sl St to top of first HDC. (19)
Round 3: Ch 1; HDC in same St, HDC in next St. (2 HDC in next St, HDC in next St) around. CHANGE TO COLOR B. Join with Sl St to top of first HDC. (29)
Round 4: Ch 1; HDC in same St, HDC in next 2 Sts. (2 HDC in next St, HDC in next 2 Sts) around. CHANGE TO COLOR C. Join with Sl St to top of first HDC. (39)
Rounds 5-10: Ch 1; HDC around. Join with Sl St to top of first HDC. (39)

DO NOT fasten off; continue to “Earflaps” instructions.

EARFLAPS (WORKED IN ROWS)

With I HOOK and COLOR C,

Row 1: Sl St in 8 Sts, Ch 1, SC in same St and in next 6 Sts; Ch 1, turn. (7)
Row 2: SC across; Ch 1, turn. (7)
Row 3: SC across; Ch 1, turn. (7)
Row 4: SC2TOG, SC in next 3 St, SC2TOG; Ch 1, turn. (5)
Row 5: HDC2TOG, DC, HDC2TOG (3)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

To complete 2^nd earflap, beginning at the base of the first earflap (the opposite side from which you started), and continuing on across the front of the hat, count over 15 Sts. Attach yarn. Ch 1, SC in same St and in next 6 Sts; Ch 1, turn. Repeat Rows 2-5 above.

DO NOT fasten off; continue on to “Edging” instructions.

EDGING (WORKED IN THE ROUND)

With I HOOK and COLOR C,

Round 1: Ch 1. SC in same St and in each St around, working evenly along sides of earflaps, and including an extra SC at the tip of each earflap. Join with a Sl St into the first SC. Fasten off; weave in ends.
Round 2: Switch to COLOR B. Attach yarn to a St at the back of the hat; Ch1. SC in same St and in each St around, adding an extra SC at the tip of each earflap. Join with a Sl St into the first SC. Fasten off; weave in ends.

EARS (MAKE 2)

With H HOOK and COLOR C, begin with a Magic Circle (MC).

Round 1: Ch 1; 8 SC in MC. Join with Sl St to top of first SC. (8)
Round 2: Ch 1; HDC in same St. 2 SC in next 7 Sts. Join with Sl St to top of first SC. (15)
Round 3: Ch 1; HDC in next 15 Sts. Join with Sl St to top of first HDC. (15)

Fasten off, leaving a 6 inch tail for attaching to hat.

MOUTH

With H HOOK and COLOR A, Ch 9.

Round 1: 2 SC in 2^nd Ch from hook. SC in next 6 Chs. 4 SC in last Ch. Continuing along the other side, SC in bottom of next 6 Chs. 2 SC in bottom of remaining Ch. Join with Sl St to top of first SC. (20)
Round 2: Ch 1; 2 SC in same St. SC in next 8 Sts. 2 SC in next 2 Sts. SC in next 8 Sts. 2 SC in next St. Join with Sl St to top of first SC. (24)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for attaching to hat.

MOUTH DETAILS

Cut an 18” piece of red yarn (or other lip color of your choice). Sew on the lips, following the horizontal line that is one line below the center of the mouth. For a “smiling” monkey, follow the natural curve around each side, as shown below. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Cut a 12” piece of black yarn (or other nostril color of your choice). Find the vertical center of the mouth and sew a small “x” on either side. Fasten off and weave in ends.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

Mouth: Place so that the bottom of the mouth rests just above the second-to-last row of the hat (so you should be able to see the edging and one row of the main color below the mouth). Make sure it is centered, and use the long tail to sew it on.

Ears: Using long tail, attach ears on either side of hat. Each ear should be attached to rows 7-9.

Eyes: Using thread and a sewing needle, attach two ½ inch buttons just above the mouth, so that their inner edges line up with the centers of each nostril.

Weave in any remaining ends. Attach pom pom and/or tassels (optional).

September 1, 2014
Sparkly Buttoned Cowl

Whew! It’s been a while since I’ve published a free pattern. Our family is getting ready for a big move, and most days it’s all I can do to keep up with the packing and planning!

This pattern is one I’ve “seen” in my mind for a while now, and I finally had the chance to work it out on paper and make a sample. Ever since I created the Sweet Ocean Breeze Baby Blanket pattern, I’ve known that the stitch combo would make a beautiful scarf. And now that summer is winding down and I’m starting to think about Christmas presents, I’ve decided it’s time to start shifting my focus to my favorite time of year. Because one thing you’ll learn about me, if you’re new around here, is that I. Love. Scarves. I LOVE them! But enough about me.

This elegant cowl is made with 2 strands of Vanna’s Choice Glamour in Platinum, held together. You’ll need 4 skeins total. Vanna’s Choice Glamour yarn has a reflective thread running through it, which gives this cowl a gorgeous, sparkly finish. It’s a fun, beginner-friendly sport weight yarn, and you can purchase it here! Throw the finished cowl over a dark-colored shirt or dress and you’re ready to go.—

Also, here’s a helpful video demonstrating how to actually wear the cowl. Sometimes it’s just easier to see someone put it on. 🙂

—

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

SPARKLY BUTTONED COWL

Finished Size: Approximately 29″ long by 12″ wide
Stitches Used: Ch, SC, DC
Yarn: Category 2 Sport Weight, 2 strands held together (I used 4 skeins of Vanna’s Choice Glamour in Platinum, available here)
Hook: Size K (6.5mm)
Buttons: 1″-1.25″ (2 of them). I used Cut-Outs #2404 from Joann Fabrics.
Notes: Pattern is written in American standard terms.

To begin: Holding 2 strands together, Ch 79.

Row 1: In 3rd Ch from hook, 1SC + 1DC. (Skip next St; 1 SC + 1 DC in next St) across.

Row 2: Ch2; turn. (Skip next St; 1 SC + 1 DC in next St) across. (Hint: You are working between the SC+DC pairings from the previous row. If you stretch out the row a bit, you’ll be able to see the small spaces in which you’ll be working. The last two stitches will go in the Ch2 space from the previous row.)

Rows 3-30: Repeat row 2.

Row 31: Ch 1; turn. (Skip next St; 2 SC in next St) across. (You are still working between the SC+DC pairings from the previous row; but note the switch to all SCs in this row.)

Row 32: Ch 1; turn. SC across.

Rows 33-36: Repeat row 32.

Row 37 (buttonhole): Ch 1; turn. SC in first 2 Sts. Ch 1; Sk 1 St. SC in each remaining St.

Row 38: Ch 1; turn. SC across, including 1 SC in the Ch1 space from the previous row.

Rows 39-40: Ch 1; turn. SC across. Finish off; weave in all ends. Use photos to help you place buttons.

Lay your scarf flat, with the buttonhole at the top left corner. Your first button should be sewn 1 inch (both sides) from the bottom right corner; your second button should be sewn 6 inches from the right edge, 1 inch from the bottom edge (in line with the first button).

To wear: It can feel a bit tricky at first, but the easiest way to visualize how to wear the cowl is to button it before you put it on. The button that is NOT in the corner is the button that will go through the buttonhole. Once you’ve joined those together, you can slip the corner button through whichever part of the scarf you want to achieve your desired look. (For the photo at the top of the post, I inserted the corner button about halfway down the left edge of the cowl (and by left edge, I am referring to the one on the left in the button photo just above.) Enjoy!

August 18, 2014
Wildflower Granny Square

Up until a few weeks ago, I’d never made a granny square. It’s a category of crochet that I hadn’t gotten around to trying yet. But, as I’m getting a little tired of making striped blankets, I just felt like it was time to change things up a bit and try something new.

After taking a look at different free patterns offered, I came to realize that there is really nothing complicated about a granny square. Like all crochet patterns, it’s simply a matter of math and angles, which is how my brain likes to work. So, for my very first granny square, I decided to just go ahead and design my own!

I’ll be joining these together once I’ve made enough (join method TBD), and I’ll release the pattern for a full blanket soon. But for now, here’s a simple pattern for a modern granny square that will brighten any room.

– – – – – – – – – – –
UPDATE: It’s finished! Click here to see the Wildflower Afghan.
– – – – – – – – – – –

WILDFLOWER GRANNY SQUARE

Finished Size: About 5.5″ square
Stitches Used: Ch, Sl St, SC, HDC, DC
Yarn: Medium worsted (I used Bernat Satin)
Hook: Size H (5.00mm)
Notes: (1)Pattern is written in American standard terms. (2)The square is built around the flower (so the flower will not need to be attached at the end). (3)Beginning chains DO count as the first stitch in the final row count, HOWEVER, when joining, you’ll slip stitch to the top of the first TRUE stitch (not the chain).

FLOWER:

With the color you want your center to be, begin with a Magic Circle (or Adjustable Ring).

Round 1: Ch1 (counts as HDC). 11 HDC in magic circle. Attach a new color for petals, and join with a Sl St to top of 1st true HDC (not the chain). Fasten off first color. (12 HDC)

Round 2 (work in BLO): Ch2 (counts as DC). DC in same st. 2 DC in each stitch around (24 DC)

Round 3 (work in FLO): Ch2. DC in same. DC in next; Ch2 and Sl St to same st as last DC; this is your first petal. (Sl St to next st. Ch 2. DC in same. DC in next. Ch2 and Sl St to same st as last DC) around, for a total of 12 petals. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

SQUARE:

Attach yarn via one of the loops on the back side of the finished flower. (Remember in Round 3 when we worked in FLO? The loop we didn’t use is the loop we’re using now.)

Round 4: Ch3 (counts as DC). DC in same St. 2 DC in each remaining St around. Join to top of first true DC. (48 DC)

Round 5: Ch3 (counts as DC). (In next St, 2DC + Ch2 + 2DC. DC in next St. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. SC in each of the next 3 Sts. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. DC in next St) around, with your final DC being the Ch3 from the beginning of the round. Join to top of 1st true DC.

Round 6: Ch3. DC in each St around; (2DC+Ch2+2DC) in each corner. Join with a Sl St to top of 1st true DC.

Each side should consist of 15 DC, not including the DCs that make up the corners.

Round 7: Ch3. DC in each St around; (2DC+Ch2+2DC) in each corner. Join with a Sl St to top of 1st true DC. Fasten off; weave in ends. DONE!

Each side should consist of 19 DC, not including the DCs that make up the corners.

July 7, 2014
Striped Mug Cozy

STRIPED MUG COZY

Finished Size: About 10” long (not including small “bridge” connector piece) and 3” tall. Fits standard 10-11” circumference mugs.
Gauge: 9 rows of 8 SC each will make a 2” square
Stitches Used: Ch, SC, Sl St
Yarn: Approx. .7oz of your favorite lighter-medium worsted weight yarn (I used Bernat Satin in “Lagoon”).
Button: One button, 1” diameter
Hook: Size H (5.00mm)
Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends. You may sew button on with yarn and appropriately sized needle, or you may use a needle and appropriately colored thread.
Notes Pattern is written in American standard terms. Pattern is worked in repeating groups of two rows, alternating colors. You do not need to cut the yarn as you go; carry it up to the next time you use it. The edging will hide the carried yarn. In the photo above, Color A = white and Color B = blue.

Pattern

Ch 11.

Row 1: With Color A, SC in 2^nd Ch from hook; SC in each St across (10 SC)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across (10 SC)

Row 3: Attach Color B. Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across (10 SC)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across (10 SC)

Row 5: Switch to Color A. Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across (10 SC)

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across (10 SC)

Row 7: Switch to Color B. Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across (10 SC)

Row 8: Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across (10 SC)

Rows 9-38: Repeat instructions for Rows 5-8. You will end on Color A. Continue to Edging.

Edging, Button Loop & Bridge
Switch to Color B (you no longer need Color A). Ch 1; turn. SC in next 9 Sts. 2 SC in next (corner) St. Working along first long edge, SC evenly across. (HINT: Adding a SC for every row will result in an overcrowded edging. So instead, add 2 SCs in each white section, and 1 in each blue section across.) After your SC into the corner, Ch 18. Sl St back into the same corner St to form a loop. SC across short edge. Ch 4. Bring your cozy around (as though it’s wrapped around an imaginary mug) and Sl St to the corner of the opposite end of the cozy (see photo) to form a “bridge”. SC back across the bridge. Continue to SC evenly across the remaining long edge (see HINT above). Join with a Sl St to the bridge (see photo). Fasten off; weave in ends.

Button
Using yarn or thread of your choice, attach 1” button to cozy on the opposite end from the buttonhole loop. The center of the button should sit 3/4” from the short edge of the cozy, and 3/4” from the top (long) edge.

June 12, 2014
Midwife Blanket

Please note: There is a version of this blanket floating around that has red stripes with added heart-shaped sections. I’m getting a lot of questions about where that pattern is (I’ve even seen pattern roundups that show that blanket but link directly here). It’s not my blanket, and I do not have the pattern variation for you here. Sorry!

A Little Background

This pattern has quite a story behind it – more so than I realized when I first published it!

Back in 2014 (when I was blogging under the name “Little Monkeys Crochet”) I was watching one of my favorite tv shows, Call the Midwife, and spotted the most beautiful single-colored baby blanket.

After an online search yielded no results, I immediately set out to figure out the pattern on my own. It gave me a run for my money but I finally finished it, published it on my blog, and the crochet world went a little crazy for it!

Quite some time later, I started to get an occasional comment here and there from someone who was so excited to discover my pattern because their mom (or grandma or aunt) had crocheted them this blanket decades ago and now they had a pattern for it! It wasn’t too much longer before the origins of this show prop were discovered: an old, out-of-print Patons & Baldwins Limited (UK) Booklet from years ago!

It was a fun discovery, but also a bit of a sad one, as I realized (perhaps later than I should have) that I had deconstructed someone else’s pattern, rewritten it, and published it on my own blog. I’m not sure why I didn’t realize this sooner – perhaps it was partly because I was a new blogger and hadn’t really thought through the legal or ethical issues of doing so, or perhaps it was because I saw the blanket on a TV show, in a pretend world, and it didn’t even cross my mind that there would be an actual real-life pattern out there for it. It’s probably a little of both.

This story does have a happy ending, though! Once it was clear where the pattern had originated, I sat down to write to the publisher who owned the rights. I explained the entire situation and timeline, apologized profusely, and offered to remove the pattern from my blog. Much to my surprise and delight, they responded with the utmost kindness and gave me permission to leave it be, enabling thousands of people to continue using it!

And so, this pattern remains on my blog with the permission of Yarnspirations, who now owns Patons. That’s a happy ending, I’d say!

THE MIDWIFE BLANKET

Hook: G (4.25mm)
Yarn: Light (DK). I used approximately 1,000 yards of Bernat Softee Baby Yarn in Antique White.
Difficulty: Easy
Crochet Language: American Standard Terms (I would have written it in UK, in honor of the fact that the show is from there, but I don’t know how…) 🙂
Finished Size: Approx. 30″ x 35″ (You can easily increase or decrease the size by adding to your starting Ch; just make sure you start with a multiple of 16, plus 6)

Notes:
(1) Because of the design, which is created by the use of skipped stitches, you’ll be crocheting into those stitches often. It’s up to you whether you crochet into the Ch, or the space created by it. I chose to crochet into the Ch itself because I felt it would give my rows a steadier look. Just note going into it that each of those skipped stitches still counts as a stitch for the row that follows it. So if it tells you to “DC in next 6 sts”, and there are only 4 DCs from the previous row followed by a space that was created by chains, you’ll need to put the last 2 DC into those chains (or the chain space, if you prefer).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To Begin: Ch 118.

Row 1: DC in 6th Ch from hook. (Ch 1, Sk 1 St, DC in next St) across. Ch 4; turn.

Row 2: Sk first 2 Sts, DC in next 15 Sts, including Ch 1s from previous row. (Ch 1; Sk 1 St. DC in next 15 Sts) 6 more times. Ch 1, Sk 1 St, DC in next St (which is part of the Ch 4 from previous row). Ch 4; turn.

Row 3: Sk first 2 Sts, DC in next 6 Sts, Ch 3, Sk 3 Sts, DC in next 6 Sts. (Ch 1; Sk 1 St. DC in next 6 Sts. Ch 3, Sk 3 Sts. DC in next 6 Sts) 6 more times. Ch 1; DC in next St (which is part of the Ch 4 from previous row). Ch 4; turn.

Row 4: Sk first 2 Sts, DC in next 4 Sts, Ch 3, Sk 3 Sts, SLIP STITCH into next St, Ch 3, Sk 3 Sts, DC in next 4 Sts. (Ch 1; Sk 1 St. DC in next 4 Sts, Ch 3, Sk 3 Sts, SLIP STITCH into next St, Ch 3, Sk 3 Sts, DC in next 4 Sts) 6 more times. Ch 1; DC in next St (which is part of the Ch 4 from previous row). Ch 4; turn.

Row 5: Sk first 2 Sts, DC in next 6 Sts (don’t forget to include the Chs from the previous row in your count!), Ch 3, Sk 3 Sts, DC in next 6 Sts. (Ch 1; Sk 1 St. DC in next 6 Sts. Ch 3, Sk 3 Sts. DC in next 6 Sts) 6 more times. Ch 1; DC in next St (which is part of the Ch 4 from previous row). Ch 4; turn.

Row 6: Sk first 2 Sts, DC in next 15 Sts. (Ch 1; Sk 1 St. DC in next 15 Sts) 6 more times. Ch 1; DC in next St (which is part of the Ch 4 from previous row). Ch 4; turn.

Row 7: Sk first 2 Sts. DC in next. (Ch 1, Sk 1 St, DC in next St) across. Ch 4; turn.

You’ve completed one row of rectangles. To continue your blanket, repeat rows 2-7 10 more times for a stroller blanket, or as many anavar for sale as you want to achieve desired length. At the end of your final row, do not Ch 4, but continue to “Edging”.

Edging You will be working along the little boxes that line the perimeter of your blanket, using two of them together to create a scalloped edge. Ch 1. SC + DC into first space. DC into the stitch that divides the two spaces. DC + SC into second space. This completes 1 scallop. (Sk next dividing st. SC + DC into next space. DC into the stitch that divides the two spaces. DC + SC into second space.) Repeat () all the way around the blanket (I added an extra DC when working in the corners).

Depending on how many rows of rectangles you chose to do, you may end up with a leftover box at the end, like I did. I simply improvised and made a 3-box scallop at the end. There’s probably a better way to figure that out, but I’m not above a little improvisation to get a job done. 😉 Fasten off; weave in ends.

June 5, 2014