Category: All Free Patterns

  • Maisy’s Holiday Dog Scarf

    Maisy’s Holiday Dog Scarf

    Oh boy, have I got something cute for you.

    I was on Amazon the other day when I came across some adorable knit scarves for dogs. I thought to myself, I could totally crochet something like that. So I did!

    So for Day #12 of my 12 Days of Christmas, we’re concluding the fun with a cute pattern for our furry friends. Modeled by my Maisy girl, of course!

    White Labrador sits in front of a Christmas tree and wears a red and white scarf.

    (Disclaimer: It should go without saying, but your pup should only wear this when supervised. It’s great for a winter walk, holiday photos, or Christmas Day with the family, but don’t leave it on if they’re heading outside or will be home alone. Safety before cuteness!)

    Maisy is modeling the large breed size… I made a small breed size for Simba, but he was not thrilled about it. I know it looks like he’s posing here, but in reality my snuggly tabby was just flat out refusing to look at me. But he looks so cute!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    Maisy’s Holiday Dog Scarf

    View on Ravelry

    Language: American Standard

    Difficulty: Beginner / Easy

    Finished Sizes: 

    Length before seamingLength after seamingWidth
    SMALL Breed18″15″2″
    MEDIUM Breed24″20″3″
    LARGE Breed28″24″4″

    Hook: J (6.0mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: I used Yarn Bee Comfy Classic in “Red”. I chose this viscose/polyester/nylon #4 weight yarn because it’s stretchy, so it’s easy to slip over my dog’s head. But really, you can use any yarn you want! Even if you choose thicker or thinner yarn and an appropriate hook size, you can simply follow the measurements of the pattern as a guide.

    You’ll Also Need: A faux fur or yarn pom, appropriately sized for the animal that will be wearing it. I recommend 2-3″ for a small breed, and 4″ for a medium or large breed.

    Gauge: 13 HDC x 12 rows = 4″ square

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    CH (chain)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    BLO (back loop only)

    Notes:
    (1) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (2) To change the length of the scarf, add to or subtract any number from your starting chain. To change the width, add to or subtract from the total number of rows. There is no stitch multiple.
    (3) Instructions are written for a small breed dog, with counts for medium breed and large breed in parentheses.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To begin: CH59 (79, 91).

    Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH.
    Stitch count: 58 (78, 90)

    Rows 2-6 (2-9, 2-12): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST, HDC in BLO across until 1 ST remains, HDC in final ST.
    Stitch count: 58 (78, 90)

    Fasten off, leaving a tail for attaching pom.

    Attaching Pom

    Using finishing tail and a yarn needle, weave yarn needle down the short edge of the scarf and pull tight to cinch it together.

    Run needle through pom (use the elastic loop if using a store-bought pom) and then back through the cinched edge of the scarf, through the pom again, and through the cinched edge one more time. When pom feels secure, tie a knot and weave in the tail.

    Seaming the Other End

    Fold the other end onto itself, forming a loop at the end of the scarf that is just a bit smaller than the pom you chose. With yarn needle, sew the edge down to attach it to the bottom layer of the scarf.

    Weave in any remaining yarn tails.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see your beautiful work (and your adorable pups)!

    White Labrador sits in front of a Christmas tree and wears a red and white scarf.
  • 12 Days of Christmas: DIY Tree Gift Card Holder

    12 Days of Christmas: DIY Tree Gift Card Holder

    It’s December 11, and it’s around this time that I start looking at gift cards to fill up those empty spaces on my gifts-for-others list.

    So for Day #11 of my 12 Days of Christmas, I tweaked Day #9’s gift tag design and made it a gift card holder! Using a little cardstock and some yarn, you can add a layer of handmade thoughtfulness to those last-minute gift cards.

    Just like with the gift tags from Day #9, there are two versions: one for your printer, and one for a cutting machine (like a Cricut or Silhouette). Both versions are super easy to use; the cutting machine just eliminates the need for scissors and hole punches.

    PRINTER VERSION

    You will need:

    • These instructions (PDF)
    • This printable (PDF)
    • Cardstock
    • Scissors
    • 1/8″ hole punch (affiliate link)
    • Green, brown and white yarn (or colors of your own choosing)
    • Yarn needle
    • Glue
    • Tape
    • Small 3D star craft stickers

    CUTTING MACHINE VERSION

    You will need:

    • These instructions (PDF)
    • A cutting machine, such as a Cricut (affiliate link) or Silhouette
    • This cutting file (PNG) – resize to 4″ tall if necessary
    • Cardstock
    • Green, brown and white yarn (or colors of your own choosing)
    • Yarn needle
    • Glue
    • Tape
    • Small 3D star craft stickers

    By the way, if you’re in the market for a cutting machine, I love my Cricut Explore (<— affiliate link)!

    I hope these come in handy as you make those last-minute preparations for the holidays!

    Click here to return to the 12 Days of Christmas!

  • 12 Days of Christmas: DIY Tree Gift Tags

    12 Days of Christmas: DIY Tree Gift Tags

    Day #9 of my 12 Days of Christmas is another cute gift tag… this one is a quick DIY craft that shows off our obsession with love of yarn!

    There are two versions: one for your printer, and one for a cutting machine (like a Cricut or Silhouette). Both versions are super easy to use; the cutting machine just eliminates the need for scissors and hole punches.

    PRINTER VERSION

    You will need:

    • These instructions (PDF)
    • This printable (PDF)
    • Cardstock
    • Scissors
    • 1/8″ hole punch (affiliate link)
    • Green and brown yarn (or colors of your own choosing)
    • Yarn needle
    • Glue
    • Tape
    • Small 3D star craft stickers

    CUTTING MACHINE VERSION

    You will need:

    • These instructions (PDF)
    • A cutting machine, such as a Cricut (affiliate link) or Silhouette
    • This cutting file (PNG) – resize to 4″ tall if necessary
    • Cardstock
    • Green and brown yarn (or colors of your own choosing)
    • Yarn needle
    • Glue
    • Tape
    • Small 3D star craft stickers

    By the way, if you’re in the market for a cutting machine, I love my Cricut Explore (<— affiliate link)!

    I hope you enjoy these gift tags as you get your handmade gifts ready for the holidays!

    Click here to return to the 12 Days of Christmas!

  • 12 Days of Christmas: The Rhylee Scarf

    12 Days of Christmas: The Rhylee Scarf

    A classic scarf is always on-trend, so for Day #7 of my 12 Days of Christmas I’m giving you a new pattern for one!

    I chose Yarn Bee’s Feelin’ Chunky for my sample scarf (which I’m totally keeping for myself). Feelin’ Chunky is a #5 weight cotton yarn… and I know cotton doesn’t seem like the ideal winter choice, but I’m one of those people that is always too warm so I love the soft, cool feel of this yarn. But you can, of course, choose whatever chunky yarn you love most!

    This scarf would also make a great men’s pattern, don’t you think? The texture really isn’t feminine at all. I love the three different colors of tassels because it’s a great opportunity to incorporate color into the scarf without it becoming too busy.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    THE RHYLEE SCARF

    View on Ravelry

    Language: American Standard

    Difficulty: Beginner / Easy

    Finished Size: 64″ long x 9″ wide

    Hook: L (8mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: Approx. 320 yards of Yarn Bee Feelin’ Chunky, or other similar #5 weight yarn (COLOR A). I used colorway “Dove”. You’ll also need 10 yards each of two additional colors (COLOR B and COLOR C) for the fringe. (These don’t necessarily need to be the same yarn.) I used Yarn Bee Feelin’ Chunky in “White” and Loops & Threads Charisma in “Blush Tweed.”

    Gauge: 10 SC x 11 rows = 4″ square

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    FLO (front loop only)

    Notes:
    (1) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (2) To change the length of your scarf, add to or subtract any number from your starting chain. To change the width, add to or subtract from the total number of rows. (Remember, increasing the size will increase the amount of yarn required.)

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To begin: With COLOR A, CH151.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (150)

    Rows 2-24: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in FLO across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. (150)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

    Adding the Fringe

    For the fringe, I cut several 10″ strands of each of my three chosen colors. I attached them in groups of 4 at the end of each row, alternating between using 4 of color A (the main scarf color) and 2 each of colors B and C.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see your beautiful work!

  • 12 Days of Christmas: Chunky Twisted Earwarmer

    12 Days of Christmas: Chunky Twisted Earwarmer

    If you’re looking for a fast one-skein project, you’ve come to the right place, because day 3 of my 12 Days of Christmas is something you can create in practically no time at all!

    Last Christmas, I needed to come up with gifts for my three nieces, who are all young adults. It was coming down to the wire — I’m talking way too late to order from Amazon — and I knew the quickest option would be to look at my yarn stash and come up with a trendy and fast pattern. I grabbed a skein of bulky #5 yarn and got to work on a chunky version of my Simple Twisted Earwarmer. I was so happy when the end result looked cute and cozy… and it only took me about 30 minutes from start to finish!

    I wrote out the pattern below in case you’re in need of a speedy project for yourself, for a gift, or even for a holiday craft fair.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    CHUNKY TWISTED EARWARMER

    View on Ravelry

    Language: American Standard

    Difficulty: Beginner/Easy

    Finished Sizes: 17″ x 3.5″ (toddler), 18″ x 4″ (child), 20″ x 4.5″ (teen/adult small), 21″ x 4.5″ (adult large)

    Hook: L (8mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: I used Loops & Threads Charisma, a soft, acrylic #5 weight yarn. (Loops & Threads is a Michael’s brand.) You’ll need about 30 yards (toddler), 45 yards (child), 60 yards (teen / adult small), or 65 yards (adult large). My samples were worked in colorways White Tweed, Cloud, and Blush Tweed. (If you order this yarn online, note that the Tweed version of Charisma has a separate listing!)

    Gauge: 9HDC x 7 rows = 4″ square.

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    CH (chain)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    BLO (back loop only)

    Notes:
    (1) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (2) If you’re a visual learner, you can follow my video tutorial for the Simple Twisted Earwarmer. That pattern uses a #4 weight yarn, but you can substitute the starting chain and stitch count from this pattern and still follow along.
    (3) To change the length of your earwarmer, add or subtract any number from your starting chain. To change the width, add or subtract from the total number of rows. There is no stitch multiple to worry about.
    (4) Pattern is written for toddler size with additional sizes in parentheses (child, teen/adult small, adult large).

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To begin: CH39 (41, 46, 48).

    Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH.
    Stitch count: 38 (40, 45, 47)

    Rows 2-6 (2-7, 2-8, 2-8): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. HDC in BLO across until 1 ST remains. HDC in final ST.
    Stitch count: 38 (40, 45, 47)

    Fasten off, leaving a 12″ tail for seaming. Weave in starting tail.

    Adding the Twist

    Follow the instructions below to seam your earwarmer with a twist. Use the image below to guide you. (They are actually from my Simple Twisted Earwarmer pattern, but the technique is the same.)

    1. Thread the long finishing tail through your yarn needle and gently set it aside. Lay ear warmer flat, then gather the edges and layer them together as shown, making sure that the corner with the finishing tail is at either the top or the bottom (not one of the layers in the middle).

    2. Thread the yarn needle across the edges, being sure to grab yarn from all four layers.

    3. Continue to weave the yarn needle back and forth across the surface of the edges, being sure to grab yarn from all four layers each time.

    4. Weave in the tail, then turn earwarmer right side out.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see your beautiful work!

    This pattern is originally part of my 12 Days of Christmas!
    Click here to return to the 12 Days of Christmas homepage.

  • 12 Days of Christmas: Chai Latte Mix

    12 Days of Christmas: Chai Latte Mix

    For Day 2 of my 12 Days of Christmas, I’m giving you a pattern of a different kind. Because what is a recipe, really, but a pattern for how to create something delicious?

    It’s probably obvious that I love chai. (And since I have an international audience, let me clarify — I love masala chai! Here in the States, we just call it chai.)

    Whether it’s hot, over ice, or frozen, this blend of spices always seems to hit the spot for me.

    One of my absolute favorite treats, though, has long been the vanilla chai latte. Perfect for a cold winter evening of crocheting in front of the fireplace, a chai latte combines classic chai spices with the comforting texture of steamed milk.

    It can cost a pretty penny to run to the coffee shop all the time for my favorite treat, so I’ve started making my own chai powder mix at home, and I’m sharing my recipe with you!

    It’s so simple, and totally customizable to your preferred tastes. (For instance, a lot of other recipes call for ginger, but unless it’s in gingerbread form, I’m really not a fan… so I leave that flavor out.)

    After some trial and error, here’s the blend I’ve settled on:

    After adding everything to a mixing bowl, it’s just a matter of stirring it up really well. That’s it!

    Isn’t it pretty!?

    You can also add the blend to a food processor, in order to get all those spices really fine and well blended. The finer they are, the better they’ll dissolve and the fewer you’ll find at the bottom of your mug.

    Add a couple of tablespoons to a mug of hot water (or use your Keurig!) and enjoy. For an even milkier taste, use hot milk in place of the water. (The dry blend includes powdered milk, so you’ll get some milkiness even if you use water.)

    Scroll down for the recipe!

    Chai Latte Mix

    INGREDIENTS

    • 3/4 cup sugar
    • 3/4 cup instant tea
    • 1/2 cup nonfat dry milk powder
    • 1/2 cup powdered vanilla creamer
    • 1/4 cup malt powder
    • 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
    • 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
    • 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
    • 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

    INSTRUCTIONS

    Add all ingredients to a mixing bowl and stir until blended. (Optional: add to a food processor to grind mix into a finer powder.)

    To use: Add 2 tablespoons to a mug of hot water or milk.

    Enjoy!

    Click here to return to the 12 Days of Christmas homepage.

  • Classic Sherpa Pillow

    Classic Sherpa Pillow


    In my almost decade of crocheting, I’ve never had a very successful relationship with furry yarn.

    There are so many times I’ve wanted to use it, and I’ve bought more variations of it than I can count over the years, but the skeins have never amounted to much of anything because I always end up deciding that whatever I was going to make just wasn’t worth the trouble.

    Can you relate?

    I’d love to tell you that I have a magic solution for you, but I don’t.

    That said… I think I’ve found a yarn that is easier to work with than anything I’ve tried before.

    The proof?

    I made a pillow with it!

    And then I made another, bigger pillow!

    That’s right; I finished the first one and still had enough patience in me to make another. And trust me, when you make this pillow… you’re going to want to make another, too. And another. They are sooooo soft and plushy. And with the #6 super bulky yarn, they work up so darn quick once you get the hang of that yarn!

    About the Yarn

    The yarn I used is Big Twist Sherpa. If you didn’t know, Big Twist is one of Joann Fabrics’ store brands. The Sherpa line showed up in my local store this fall in a big, hard-to-miss center aisle display and the big, fluffy skeins drew me in.

    As I mentioned, I’ve never been great with fur yarn. You really have to feel for your next stitch, because the soft faux fur just blends everything together and there is literally zero stitch definition. Big Twist Sherpa made it a little bit easier, though, by using a dark color for the actual thread, and then blending that same dark color out to white. So the darker it is, the closer you are to your stitch… which really helps.

    One neat thing about the way the yarn is constructed is that when it’s worked in unturned rounds (as we will with this pillow), the “right” side of the resulting fabric is significantly more color-saturated than the “wrong” side, which brings in a lot more of the white. You’ll see this as you work the pattern, but you won’t have to decide which side you like more until the very end. (I ended up choosing the “wrong” side because I liked the brightness of it.)

    One word of caution: be sure to grab enough skeins of the same dye lot for your project. I didn’t pay attention (oops) and let me tell you, the difference in the two skeins when I started to add on the second one was jarring. It’s not so much that the color was different, but the second skein had a much bigger concentration of white. I went back to my store and was very lucky to find a skein that matched my first one!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Classic Sherpa Pillow

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Easyish (The pattern is easy… the yarn takes some focus!)

    Crochet Language: American Standard

    Finished Sizes: For 12″ and 18″ pillow inserts
    (The opening should measure about .5″-1″ smaller than your pillow insert; it will stretch.)

    Yarn: Big Twist Sherpa, a very thick, #6 super bulky yarn. You’ll need 2 skeins for the 12″ pillow, or 3 skeins for the 18″. I used “Sea” and “Wine.” 

    Hook: 9.0mm (M or N depending on brand; go by mm measurement)

    Gauge: 9 CSC x 9 rows = 4″ square
    (Note that there is no stitch multiple for this pattern, so it would probably be easier to adjust your initial chain to the correct width than to try to match gauge exactly.)

    You’ll also need: 12″ or 18″ pillow insert, yarn needle for weaving in super bulky yarn

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    CH (chain)
    CSC (crossed single crochet: Insert hook into stitch. Yarn UNDER, pull through; 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops.)

    Notes:
    (1) Fur yarn is challenging, but you’ll get better with practice. Big Twist Sherpa has been one of the easier fur yarns I’ve used, because the fur gets darker the closer to the actual thread you get, and you can use that dark thread and a sharp eye to locate your top loops. However, I find that most of the time I’m using my fingers to feel for where to insert my hook.
    (2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round. Do not join, chain or turn unless instructed.
    (3) Pattern is written for a 12″ pillow insert, with instructions for an 18″ insert written in parentheses.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To begin: CH27 (CH41), or to 11.5”-12” (17.5”-18”)

    For Round 1, we’re going to CSC across the length of a chain, and then CSC back down the other side of it until we are back where we started.

    Round 1: CSC in 2nd CH from hook (mark this first ST with a stitch marker) and in each remaining CH. Working down the other side of the chain, CSC across. You have now worked in both sides of each chain. DO NOT join.
    Stitch count: 52 (80)

    In the inset image, you can see that I’ve crocheted along the entire chain, completing the first half of Round 1. The illustration shows you what the stitches look like underneath all that fur.

    To begin working down the other side of the chain, insert your hook where the pink line at the top is pointing. (If you’re thinking “that’s the same place I made the last CSC”, you’d be right!) Continue to place a CSC in each chain until you are back where you first started.

    Rounds 2-27 (2-41), or until pillow measures 12” (18”) tall: CSC in each ST around.
    Stitch count: 52 (80)

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for weaving top of pillow closed. Choose which side you like best, and weave all other tails on whichever side of the pillow you have determined to be the “wrong” side.

    Turn pillow right side out. Add pillow insert, then hold open edges of pillow together and seam closed with your preferred method. Here’s how I seamed mine:

    Weave in tail and hide excess yarn inside pillow.

    That’s it! Enjoy your soft, cozy new pillow!

    I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your project on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!

  • Buffalo Check Potholders

    Buffalo Check Potholders

    As soon as Fall decor started showing up at the craft stores this year, it was clear that buffalo check was going to be a staple of the season. And I’m not complaining… because I love it.

    So I was especially pumped to see that the theme is carrying on into Christmas decor, too!

    Buffalo check, buffalo plaid… whatever you call it, there’s something downright cozy about this familiar fabric. It takes me back to a little cabin in the Tennessee mountains where our family vacationed a few years back, and I can almost smell the pine trees!

    But as “American” as buffalo check feels to, well, Americans, we’re only responsible for the name. The original fabric has much earlier origins in Scotland. Cool, right?

    There are a lot of color variations these days, too. You can go with the classic red and black, opt for a modern black and white, or get creative with a different choice altogether. Do whatever suits your personality!

    About the Yarn

    I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton for all three of my potholders. It’s important to use 100% cotton yarn for potholders, and ILTC has an awesome selection of colors. Here are the three color schemes I crocheted, and their colorways:

    COLOR A: Aubergine
    COLOR B: Black
    COLOR C: Burnt Sienna

    COLOR A: Pewter
    COLOR B: Black
    COLOR C: White

    COLOR A: Dove
    COLOR B: Pewter
    COLOR C: White

    I’ve seen some other pretty combos in the craft stores, like green and white, and red and white. If you do decide to stray from the colors I crocheted with, you’ll get best results by starting with white, adding a dark color, and finally choosing a lighter version of the dark color. (True buffalo check fabric is woven and actually only uses 2 colors; the medium color is the result of the dark and light threads crossing paths.)

    Free Downloadable Label

    Since Buffalo Check Potholders would make a great holiday gift, I’ve included a free downloadable PDF for a wraparound-style label! These wrappers will take your gift presentation up a notch, and would also be great for displaying your potholders as a part of your craft show inventory. Whatever your needs, just click the image to download. (I printed mine on lightly textured, cardboard-colored cardstock to achieve this rustic look.)

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    BUFFALO CHECK POTHOLDERS

    View on Ravelry

    Language: American Standard

    Difficulty: Intermediate

    Finished Size: 7.5″ x 7.5″

    Hook: 4.0mm or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Gauge: 22 CSC x 17 rows = 4″ square

    Yarn: #4 medium weight cotton yarn in three colors:

    • COLOR A (midtone): 80 yards
    • COLOR B (darkest): 45 yards
    • COLOR C (lightest): 45 yards

    I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton for all three of my Buffalo Check Potholders. Check up in the blog post for the colorways used in each one!

    You’ll Also Need: Yarn needle, 10″ length of 3mm leather or suede cord for handle

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    CH (chain)
    CSC     (crossed single crochet: Insert hook into stitch. Yarn UNDER, pull through; 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops.)
    FLO (front loop only)
    JOIN (join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round)

    Notes:
    (1) CH1s at the beginning of rounds do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (2) This is an intermediate level pattern because it involves a lot of color changes and carrying yarn. I go through the first round very thoroughly with lots of photos, and then basically set you free with a color chart after that. If you can crochet the first round and it’s all making sense to you, you’ll be just fine to complete the pattern!
    (3) Pattern is worked in joined, unturned rounds around a base chain and seamed closed at the end, resulting in a sturdy, double-thickness potholder.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To begin: With COLOR A, CH43.

    Round 1: CSC in 2nd CH from hook. CSC in next CH. CSC in next CH, but complete the ST with COLOR B (see photo).

    With COLOR B, and carrying COLOR A along behind your stitches, CSC in each of the next 5 CHS. CSC in next ST, but complete the ST with COLOR A (see photo).

    Carrying whichever color you are not actively using, continue across the chain, following a color pattern of 6 STS per color (excluding the very first set of 3 STS) until you have three empty chains remaining. Complete the final 3 STS with COLOR B (photo).

    Next, you’re going to complete the other half of this set of six COLOR B stitches on the other side of the chain. Place your next 3 STS where indicated in the first image (shown completed in the second image), and don’t forget to complete the final ST with COLOR A to prepare for the color change:

    Continue to CSC into the remaining chains, following the 6-stitches-per-color pattern, until only 3 STS remain; complete those STS in COLOR A. (Notice how the first 3 STS and the last 3 STS of the round make a full set of 6 for COLOR A.)

    JOIN to the top of the very first ST of the round (indicated in the first photo and shown completed in the second photo). (42)

    Rounds 2-30: CH1, do not turn. In FLO, CSC in each ST around, following the color chart below. Join. (42)

    A few tips for following the color chart:

    • To save space, the chart has been condensed using a repeated section, just like a written pattern would. Read it from right-to-left (or left-to-right, if you’re a leftie), and be sure to complete the repeated section the indicated number of times before finishing with your final 3 stitches (or final 9 if you’re a leftie).
    • The pattern is worked from the bottom up, so start at the bottom of the chart.
    • Don’t forget, you’ve already completed Round 1.
    • Remember, when changing colors, always complete the last ST of the previous color by drawing the new color through the two loops on the hook.
    • When you get to Round 6 and add COLOR C, you can drop COLOR B until you need it again (you don’t need to carry it along). This applies to whenever you get to a round where the blocks of color are different from the previous round.

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming. Weave in all other ends.


    Seaming

    Hold top edges of potholder together so that the color blocks line up with each other, and seam the edges together in your preferred method. Here’s how I seamed mine:

    Fasten off and weave in your final end.


    Handle

    Cut a 10″ length of leather or suede cord (mine was 3mm thick) and use a yarn needle to run it through the potholder near the corner. Tie a knot at the top and trim as necessary.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see your beautiful work!

    (And don’t forget to download these FREE wrapper labels!)

  • Halloween Pumpkin

    Halloween Pumpkin

    I’ve always been more of a fall person than a Halloween person, but when October 31 rolls around, I don’t mind a bit of spooky decor. 

    And you know what’s great about a jack-o-lantern made of yarn?

    It doesn’t rot! Score.

    While I was designing my Petite Autumn Pumpkin, I started brainstorming how I might adapt it into a silly-faced holiday version.

    I think he came out pretty cute!

    (Full disclosure, I think the kid is even cuter.)

    You could also leave the face off completely and just use this as a classic pumpkin pattern. I mean, look at that realistic shaping:

    About the Yarn

    The yarn I chose for my little jack-o-lantern was chosen based on color, not fiber. (There aren’t a lot of really good pumpkin oranges to choose from!) But Yarn Bee Tweed Indeed in “Pumpkin Tweed” fit my rustic vibe perfectly. It’s the same #4 weight yarn that I used for my Harvest Cardigan pattern, and I love it, but you could easily substitute it with a #4 of your choice.

    For the face, I used I Love This Cotton in “Black”; but, again, this #4 weight cotton is easy to substitute!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Halloween Pumpkin

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Intermediate

    Crochet Language: American Standard

    Finished Size: Finished pumpkin will be approximately 6” wide x 5.25” tall, but these measurements may vary slightly based on how you stuff and shape it.

    Yarn: Approximately 160 yards of #4 worsted weight yarn for COLOR A (I used Yarn Bee Tweed Indeed in “Pumpkin Tweed”) and 20 yards of #4 worsted weight yarn for COLOR B (I used I Love This Cotton in “Black”)

    Hook: 4.5mm (G) hook

    Gauge: Not super important, but 12 CSC x 11.5 rows = 2” square.

    You’ll also need: Regular and extra long yarn needles, stitch marker, poly-fill (stuffing), small stick (or cinnamon stick) for stem, fast drying glue

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    CH (chain)
    FLO (front loop only)
    CSC (crossed single crochet: Insert hook into stitch. Yarn UNDER, pull through; 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops.)
    CSC2TOG (CSC 2 stitches together: Insert hook into FLO of stitch, then immediately insert hook into FLO of the next ST. Yarn UNDER, pull through front loop of each ST; 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops.)

    Notes:
    (1) Pattern is worked in a seamless round. Do not join, chain and/or turn unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds.
    (2) Crocheting the bulk of the pattern in FLO helps keep the stitches stacked neatly, as opposed to the natural slant they usually have when working in a seamless round. This helps keep the pumpkin’s face from slanting, too!
    (3) I did not carry COLOR B behind any stitches made with COLOR A; instead, I picked up COLOR B whenever it was needed and dropped it immediately after.
    (4) When you come to CSC stitches marked as COLOR B, complete them as follows: Insert hook into stitch, drop COLOR A, grab COLOR B and pull through (2 loops on hook); drop COLOR B, yarn over with COLOR A, pull through both loops.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To begin: With COLOR A, make a magic circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 20 CSC in MC. (20)

    Round 2: 2 CSC in each ST around. (40)

    Round 3: 2 CSC in each ST around. (80)

    Note: Your circle will be very wavy because of all of the stitches you’ve crowded into a small area. Don’t worry!

    Rounds 4-15: CSC in FLO of each ST around. (80)

    Rounds 16-31: CSC in FLO of each ST around, following the color chart below. (80)

    HOW TO READ THIS CHART: The pumpkin’s face is 19 STS across. Start in the bottom right square and work left. When you’ve completed the 19 charted STS, finish the rest of the round in COLOR A. Then move up a row and start again in the rightmost square. Each time you complete the 19 STS of the charted part of the round, finish the rest of the round with COLOR A.

    Refer to pattern notes for more tips.

    Lefties: The chart is symmetrical from side to side, so if it helps, you can start in the lower left corner instead.

    (Note: The chart is upside down because we are crocheting this pumpkin from the top down.)



    Rounds 32-44: With COLOR A, CSC in FLO of each ST around. (80)

    Pull up a large loop so your work doesn’t start to unravel, then remove your hook. We’re going to pause here to do two things: 

    Weave in the starting tail: Turn your pumpkin inside out (so the ridges created by the FLO are visible), then insert your pumpkin stem into the opening created by the magic circle (see photo). Weave in the starting tail, then remove the stem (you’ll glue it in place later).

    Turn pumpkin right side out.

    Add stuffing: Use the polyfill to stuff the pumpkin. Don’t be skimpy; the better you stuff it, the better pumpkin shape you’ll have in the end.

    Reinsert your hook and continue on to Round 45.

    Round 45: CSC2TOG around. (40)

    Round 46: CSC2TOG around. (20)

    To finish: SL ST in each of the next 2 STS to smooth down the round, then fasten off, leaving a tail about 2 yards long. 

    If your pumpkin needs a little more stuffing after crocheting the last two rounds, add it now.

     

    SHAPING + FINISHING

    Cinching and Closing:
    Use yarn needle and finishing tail to weave along the bottom edge of the pumpkin, weaving in one stitch, out the next until you’re back where you started. Pull yarn tail to cinch closed. Weave yarn needle across the cinch in a couple different directions to reinforce closure; tie a knot, but do not fasten off.

    Shaping:
    Use extra-long yarn needle to run the finishing tail under the diagonal bar of each CSC in a vertical line as shown in the photo below:

    Continue all the way to the top, then insert yarn needle down between the 1st and 2nd round and push it down through the pumpkin, pulling it out through the center of the bottom of the pumpkin.

    Pull tight, creating an indent in the pumpkin.

    Count over 10 stitches to the right from your first indent, and repeat the process. 

    Continue the process, counting over 10 stitches each time. You should end with 8 evenly spaced indents. Tie a knot and weave in the tail.

    Stem:
    Add a few dots of fast-drying glue to the magic circle area of the pumpkin, then quickly insert stem and push down; hold to set.

    All done! Seriously, how CUTE is he!?

    I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your pumpkins on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!

  • Petite Autumn Pumpkin

    Petite Autumn Pumpkin

    I love fall. It gives me all the feels.

    Petite Autumn Pumpkin

    When the heat of a Michigan summer finally breaks and the leaves start to turn shades of orange and red and yellow and I can snuggle up in a cardigan and fuzzy socks, I feel an overwhelming sense of calmness. 

    If I could bottle up the feeling that autumn gives me and access it year-round, I would be one peaceful, contented girl.

    But alas, fall is fleeting. So let’s make the most of it, starting with a brand new pumpkin pattern, shall we?

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Petite Autumn Pumpkin

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Easy

    Crochet Language: American Standard

    Finished Size: 4.25” wide x 4.25” tall (laid flat, before stuffing). Finished pumpkin will be approximately 3.5” wide x 2.25” tall, but these measurements may vary slightly based on how you stuff and shape it.

    Yarn: Approximately 50 yards of a #4 weight yarn. I used Yarn Bee Comfy Classic (samples shown in White, Granite, and Blush). Comfy Classic is a blend of viscose, polyester and nylon. You can substitute another #4 weight yarn to achieve a similar size, or play around with different yarn weights to create pumpkins in different sizes. (Of course, yardage will vary.)

    Hook: 4.5mm (G) hook

    Gauge: Not super important, but 12 CSC x 11.5 rows = 2” square.

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker, poly-fill (stuffing), small stick (or cinnamon stick) for stem, fast drying glue, twine or other pumpkin embellishments

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    CH (chain)
    FLO (front loop only)
    CSC (crossed single crochet: Insert hook into stitch, yarn UNDER, pull through — 2 loops on hook; yarn over, pull through both loops.)

    Notes:
    (1) Pattern is worked in a seamless round. Do not join, chain and/or turn unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To begin: Make a magic circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 16 CSC in MC. (16)

    Round 2: 3 CSC in each ST around. (48)

    Rounds 3-22: CSC in FLO of each ST around. (48)

    To finish: SL ST in FLO of each of the next 2 STS to smooth down the round, then fasten off, leaving a tail about 2 yards long.

     

    SHAPING + FINISHING

    Follow these steps to shape and finish your pumpkin. Remember, the “top” of the pumpkin is where your magic circle is. 

    Stem:
    Turn pumpkin inside out. Cut a 1” length of your chosen material to serve as the pumpkin stem. Insert into the hole created by the magic circle, then pull the starting tail so that it tightens up around the stem. Weave in starting tail; remove stem. (You’ll glue it in place at the end.) 

    Cinching, Stuffing and Closing:
    Turn pumpkin right-side out. Use yarn needle and finishing tail to weave along the bottom edge of the pumpkin, weaving every 3 stitches until you’re back where you started (1st image). Set yarn needle down and stuff pumpkin (2nd image), then pull yarn tail to cinch closed (3rd image). Weave yarn needle across the cinch in a couple different directions to reinforce closure; tie a knot, but do not fasten off.

    Shaping:
    Use yarn needle to run the finishing tail under the diagonal bar of each CSC in a vertical line as shown in the photo below:

    Continue all the way to the top, then insert yarn needle down between the 1st and 2nd round and push it down through the pumpkin, pulling it out through the center of the bottom of the pumpkin. Pull tight, creating an indent in the pumpkin.

    Count over 8 stitches to the right from your first indent, and repeat the process. 

    Continue the process, counting over 8 stitches each time. You should end with 6 evenly spaced indents. Tie a knot and weave in the tail.

    Stem:
    Embellish stem as desired. I wrapped twine around mine 4 or 5 times, then tied it in a small double-knotted bow:

    Add a few dots of fast-drying glue to the magic circle area of the pumpkin, then quickly insert cinnamon stick and push down; hold to set.

    You’re done!

    I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your pumpkins on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!