Category: All Free Patterns

  • Cross-stitched Lamb Cinched Backpack

    Cross-stitched Lamb Cinched Backpack


    This pattern is dedicated to my mom and the example she set as a successful business-owning, work-at-home-mama!

    I should start off by saying that I’m not an expert cross-stitcher. But I do have a neat connection to the world of cross-stitching, because when I was teeny tiny, my mom had a cross-stitching business through a company called Creative Circle. (Creative Circle doesn’t exist anymore, but if you remember it, I’d love to know in the comments!) So it probably goes without saying that she was pretty awesome at it. 

    Then there’s me. I’ve attempted a couple cross-stitch projects in my lifetime, but I couldn’t tell you all the techniques and tips that a more complicated project would involve. I knew just enough to pull off this project, so I’m passing on my very basic knowledge to you in case you’ve never done it, either!

    For this project, we’ll first crochet the bag itself, and then we’ll add the cross-stitched lamb at the end. The bag uses a crochet stitch called Crossed Single Crochet (CSC), not to be confused with cross-stitching… they are unrelated. (Not confusing at all, right!?) But the CSC stitch really is a great stitch for our purposes. If you’re already familiar with it, feel free to scroll down to the pattern; otherwise, I’ve got some tips for you!

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    The Crossed Single Crochet Stitch: Tips + Tricks

    With its almost perfectly square stitches, the Crossed Single Crochet (CSC) stitch makes for an ideal surface for cross-stitching. Here are the steps:

    CROSSED SINGLE CROCHET STITCH:
    Insert your hook, yarn under,
    draw yarn through stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over,
    draw through both loops. 

    It’s created almost the same way as a standard Single Crochet (SC), but with one tiny difference (bolded in the instructions above): you’ll grab your yarn under your hook instead of over it. Here’s the difference between an SC and a CSC at that step:

    Sidenote: You might be looking at this and thinking “um… I’ve always grabbed my yarn under the hook for a regular single crochet! Have I been doing it wrong all this time!?” Short answer – Yes! But you aren’t alone. I’ve even seen patterns online that call for single crochet stitches, but the designer is clearly doing crossed single crochets stitches. Chances are, you’re a self-taught crocheter and no one ever corrected you. It usually won’t make much difference in a pattern, but it’s always good to learn and improve. 

    Even if you know the steps for CSC, it takes some practice — and some helpful tips — to get those stitches to line up almost vertically. Here’s what I’ve learned: 

    • Keep your tension loose. If you are already a loose crocheter, this will come naturally; but for me, a tight crocheter, I really had to concentrate to keep a relaxed tension.
    • Be a “lifter”. You may have heard the terms rider, yanker and lifter in reference to something called the golden loop. (And if not, I got ya covered.) The golden loop is the loop that is on your hook after you’ve pulled your yarn through the stitch in the first part of a crochet stitch. We all fall into three categories as far as how tall we pull that loop before moving on to the next step in the stitch; a yanker barely pulls the loop up at all, a lifter pulls it up quite tall, and a rider falls somewhere in the middle. Your CSC stitches are more likely to line up vertically if you become a lifter. (Again, this does not come naturally for me. I really had to focus!)
    • Don’t pull your yarn directly from the skein. Unless you’re working from a center-pull skein and the yarn is flowing out freely, you’re going to want to pull out a few yards of it at a time and then complete the stitches. Any friction on the yarn is going to mess with your tension and make your stitches less consistent.
    • Work your bag right-side out. When I make hats, bags, or any 3D round shape, I tend to hold my bag inside out while crocheting. It’s just the way I have always done it, and it doesn’t feel as natural to work on it right side out. But I can look at my finished bag and tell you exactly where I started holding it right side out, because it’s the point in the bag where my stitches really started to line up well vertically. I couldn’t tell you why this is the case, but it definitely made a big difference. 

    So that’s the Crossed Single Crochet! 

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    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

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    Cross-stitched Lamb Cinched Backpack

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 14.25″ wide x 15.75″ tall

    Hook: I (5.5mm)

    Gauge: 13.5 CSC x 15 rows = 4″ square

    Yarn: For the bag, you’ll need 450 yards of Bernat Maker Home Dec or other #5 weight yarn. For the cross-stitched lamb, you’ll need about 30 yards of Baby Bee Adore-A-Ball or other #4 or #5 fluffy white yarn, as well as less than 10 yards each of black, cream, and pink yarns in #4 or #5 weights.

    You’ll also need: A large-eyed yarn needle and 3 yards of 3mm macrame cord, or other chosen material for drawstring backpack strap.

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    BLO (back loop only)
    CSC (crossed single crochet – see Special Stitches)

    Special Stitches:

    Crossed Single Crochet (CSC): Insert your hook, yarn under*, draw yarn through stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops. (*This is the only difference between a crossed single crochet and a standard single crochet, for which you would yarn over after inserting your hook.)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) Pattern is worked in a seamless spiral. Do not join, chain or turn unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the first stitch of your rounds.
    (3) Pattern can be created with standard Single Crochet stitches, but you’ll want to join and turn each round rather than working in a spiral so that your stitches line up vertically.

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    The Pattern

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    MAKING THE BAG
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    To Begin: CH49.

    Round 1: Working into the back bumps, CSC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Working in BLO down the opposite side of the chain, CSC across. (You have now worked in both sides of each chain.) Do not join. (96)

    Rounds 2-56: CSC in each ST around. (96)

    Now we need to “reset” our starting point for the next round so that our drawstring holes go in the correct place. So no matter where on the bag you completed the last stitch of the previous round, continue to CSC until you reach the nearest edge. (I had to crochet 3 additional stitches to get to the edge; you may require more or less.) Consider the last stitch you make to be the final stitch of the previous round, and get ready to mark the first stitch of the next round with your stitch marker.

    Round 57 (drawstring holes): CSC in next ST. CH2, SK 2 STS. (CSC in each of the next 2 STS, CH2, SK 2 STS) around until 1 ST remains. CSC in final ST. (24 drawstring holes)

    Round 58: CSC in each ST around, putting 2CSC in each CH2 space. (96)

    Round 59: CSC in each of the first 94 STS. SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (96)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

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    CROSS-STITCHING ON YOUR BAG
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    Use a yarn needle and basic cross-stitching technique to add the lamb to your bag. Never cross-stitched before? No problem! At least for this purpose, it’s easy. Here is the diagram:

    The graph on the diagram represents the first 34 rounds of the bag, and is 48 units wide to represent the front side of the bag. The dark brown units represent the bag itself, and you will not cross-stitch into them.

    Let’s start with the tail. Lay your bag flat and count up to the 25th round, 8th stitch from the left (marked on the graph by a pink border). This is your starting point.

    Thread your yarn needle with a couple yards of the black yarn, and coming out from the inside of the bag, make a diagonal line from the top right corner of the stitch to the bottom left corner of the same stitch.

    Before crossing the stitch, look back at the diagram: there are 3 black stitches in this column. To keep things looking as streamlined as possible, we’re going to make that first diagonal line for all three of the stitches.

    Now, starting with the last stitch you made and moving back up toward your starting stitch, cross each stitch with a diagonal line starting at the bottom right corner and ending in the top left corner. You now have 3 completed stitches!

    Move to the next column and follow the same process.

    Follow the process for the third column as well.

    Your lamb’s tail should be done! Fasten off the yarn and secure as desired. I tied a bunch of knots because I don’t care what the inside looks like, but if you do, you’ll want to weave in your ends or line your bag with fabric.

    Move on to another section of color; I did the white next, but it’s really up to you how you want to tackle it. (Just save the thin lines on the lamb’s face for Don’t worry if you run out of yarn before you finish a color; just fasten off and start with a new strand wherever you left off.

    When you’ve finished every section, it’s time to add the three lines that make up the mouth/nose area. Simply use your yarn needle and black yarn to “draw” the lines over the face stitches. Simple!

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    DRAWSTRING
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    Cut two 1.5 yard lengths of macrame cord. Lay bag flat and locate the furthermost hole to the right; starting from the outside, thread the first length of cord through the hole and then, working leftward, proceed to weave it in and out of each hole around the entire bag (photo 1). You should end up with the cord exiting the bag through the hole next to your starting hole.

    Make sure the two cord ends are equal in length when bag is uncinched, then take the end that is coming out of the first hole you used and thread it into the bag along the edge, starting at about 5 rounds from the bottom, and out through the bottom corner (photo 2). Line the unused cord end up with it, and tie together in a knot. Don’t cut off the excess yet.

    Do the same thing with the other 1.5 yard length of cord, starting in the leftmost hole and working rightward, continuing around the entire bag. (Both cords will be entering and exiting the same drawstring holes, in opposite directions.) Follow the rest of the steps to secure the second cord.


    Cinch the backpack and wear it to test the length, then readjust knot placement as needed. Trim off excess cord.

    Done!

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    Don’t forget to share your finished project!

    Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to spread creativity! Be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!

  • Simple Drawstring Bag

    Simple Drawstring Bag


    I’ve been on a bag kick lately.

    I don’t know what it is about bags that make them so fun to design. Maybe it’s the fact that they aren’t limited by shape, color, size… there’s a lot of freedom in that!

    This bag is a very simple pattern; it’s crocheted in a single color, and the striping is added at the end using a surface crochet technique. The macrame cord drawstring is a classic braid, decorated with cute wooden beads (optional). It’s the perfect size to carry your essentials or a small yarn project.

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    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

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    Simple Drawstring Bag

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 11″ wide* x 13.5″ tall, when laid flat.
    *Before adding the surface stitching, bag will measure closer to 12″ wide; surface crocheting tightens it a bit.

    Yarn: I used 2 strands of Cascade Yarns Sarasota (#3 weight cotton/acrylic blend) held together, but you can use whatever you have! A single-stranded aran or bulky weight yarn will work just fine, and you’ll only need about half the yardage; although it may alter your finished measurements a bit.

    COLOR A (“Navy”): 500 yards
    COLOR B (“Deep Violet”): 70 yards

    Hook: I (5.5mm)

    Gauge: Your first 6 rounds should = 3″.

    You’ll also need: 6 yards of 3mm macrame cord, or other chosen material for drawstring strap.

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    CSC (crossed single crochet – see Special Stitches)
    Surface Crochet (see Special Stitches

    Special Stitches:

    • Crossed Single Crochet (CSC): Insert your hook, yarn under*, draw yarn through stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops. (*This is the only difference between a crossed single crochet and a standard single crochet, for which you would yarn over after inserting your hook.)
    • Surface Crochet: Surface crocheting is simply slip stitching along the surface of crocheted fabric. If you need a tutorial, there are several available on YouTube.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) Pattern is worked in a seamless spiral. Do not join, chain or turn unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the first stitch of your rounds.
    (3) A standard Single Crochet stitch can be substituted for the Crossed Single Crochet stitch if desired.
    (4) Because the bag is worked seamlessly, the decorative surface-crocheted lines added at the end do not join perfectly (see image). This section will be at the back of the bag. The only way to avoid it is to work the entire bag in joined, unturned rounds, producing a slightly diagonal seam but perfectly joined decorative lines.

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    The Pattern

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    BODY OF THE BAG
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    To Begin: With COLOR A double-stranded, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).

    Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)

    Round 2: 2SC in each ST around. (12)

    Round 3: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)

    Round 4: (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (24)

    Round 5: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (30)

    Round 6: (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)

    Round 7: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (42)

    Round 8: (SC in each of the next 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (48)

    Round 9: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (54)

    Round 10: (SC in each of the next 4 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (60)

    Round 11: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around. (66)

    Round 12: (SC in each of the next 5 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (72)

    Round 13: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 11 STS) around. (78)

    Round 14: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 38 STS) around. (80)

    Rounds 15-48: CSC in each ST around. (80)

    Round 49 (drawstring holes): (CH2, SK 2 STS, CSC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (48 + 16 CH2 spaces)

    Round 50: CSC in each ST around, putting 2CSC in each CH2 space from the previous round. (80)

    Rounds 51-52: CSC in each ST around. (80)

    Put a stitch marker in the final CSC and leave it there, then SL ST in the first 2 STS of the next round. Fasten off and weave in ends.

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    SURFACE CROCHET ROUNDS
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    Begin with your bag laid flat, with the area where you fastened off face-up and in the center.

    Count down 7 rounds from the top. Between Rounds 7 and 8, with COLOR B double-stranded, surface crochet around the bag. Your end point will be one round off from your starting point; simply add a diagonal surface stitch to connect them. Fasten off and weave in ends.

    Count down 7 more stitches and repeat; do this until you have 5 rounds of surface crochet.

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    DRAWSTRING
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    Follow these steps to assemble the drawstring:

    Make it: Cut 3 lengths of 3mm macrame cord, each 2 yards long. Hold them together and tie a loose knot about 6″ from one end to temporarily secure. Braid. Don’t knot the finishing end yet.

    Set Up Your Bag: Lay bag flat, with the marked stitch at the top center of the side that is face-down.

    Weave the drawstring through: Hold the drawstring strands at the unknotted end together and weave them in and out of the drawstring holes at the top of your bag. Start with the hole just to the left of center, and insert from the outside of the bag toward the inside. Working clockwise, weave in and out of each hole until you’ve used all of them.

    Test the strap length: Holding the drawstring ends together so that they don’t slip out of the holes, grab the part of the drawstring that is on the facedown part of the bag directly across from your entry and exit holes; pull until bag is cinched and drawstring ends are about where you would want them to fall on the front of the bag. Wear it as you would when finished — is it too long for you? If so, you can trim the ends as needed.

    Join the braids: Join the braids by taking two strands from one braid and one strand from the other braid, and braiding them together for about 1″; tie a knot to secure. Take the remaining strands and braid them together the same way; tie a knot to secure.

    Add beads (optional): Add a bead to each strand and tie a knot at the bottom to secure. Trim excess.

    Done!

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    Don’t forget to share your finished project!

    Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to spread creativity! Be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!

  • Mug Rug

    Mug Rug

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    This project is part of the Yarn Stash Challenge. For more great ideas, or to join the fun, visit the Yarn Stash Challenge blog post!

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    A set of coasters is a quick, easy project, and it’s a great stashbuster, too! One of my favorite styles of coaster is known as a “mug rug” because it looks just like a tiny rug. How cute is that?

    The Process

    All you need for this pattern are several skeins of the same yarn weight. I used 5 skeins of #3 yarn and chose shades of blue, tan and ivory, with some white furry yarn thrown in there too.

    After I choose my yarn, I simply crocheted rows of SC, fastening off and changing colors every row. I added fringe to the sides, pulling the row ends through with the added fringe to keep everything secure. Then I trimmed the fringe. Done!

    I’ll write out the actual pattern below, but feel free to adjust it to make it your own!

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    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

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    Mug Rug

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 5.5″ wide x 4.25″ tall (excludes fringe)

    Yarn: #3 weight yarn in 5 different colors. Feel free to mix textures, brands, and fibers. You’ll only need about 30 yards combined. (See Notes for my specific yarn choices.)

    Hooks: F (4.0mm)

    Gauge: 4 SC x 5.5 rows = 1″

    You’ll also need: Scotch tape

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) The specific yarns I used in my samples are:

    • COLOR A: Loops & Threads Coastal Cotton (in “Indigo”)
    • COLOR B: Yarn Bee Warm & Cozy (in “Oat”)
    • COLOR C: Yarn Bee Cloud 9 (in “Cream”)
    • COLOR D: Lion Brand Jeans (in “Brand New”)
    • COLOR E: Baby Bee Sweet Delight (in “Toy Elephant Marled”)

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    The Pattern

    The first thing you’ll want to do (if you’re following my color sequence) is label your yarns A, B, C, D, E so you know which goes where in the pattern. Follow this pattern:

    CH + Row 1: A
    Row 2: B
    Row 3: C
    Row 4: D
    Row 5: A
    Row 6: E
    Row 7: A
    Row 8: D
    Row 9: A
    Row 10: B
    Row 11: A
    Row 12: D
    Row 13: A
    Row 14: E
    Row 15: A
    Row 16: D
    Row 17: A
    Row 18: B
    Row 19: A
    Row 20: D
    Row 21: C
    Row 22: E
    Row 23: A

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    To Begin: With COLOR A, CH23.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Switch to next color; fasten off. (22)

    Rows 2-22: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Switch to next color; fasten off. (22)

    Row 23: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Fasten off. (22)

    Here’s what we have so far:

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    Fringe
    Attach fringe using these instructions and the photo below:

    1. Insert hook in between the first two yarn tails. Cut a small strand of yarn that matches one of them and wrap it around the hook.
    2. Pull new yarn through to create a small loop.
    3. Take the 2 tails of the new yarn and the yarn ends on either side of your loop in your hand. You should have 4 strands.
    4. Pull all four strands down through the loop.
    5. Tighten the knot using the two tails of the new yarn.Repeat instructions 1-5, moving down both sides of the mug rug until all ends have been combined into fringe, then move on to #6.
    6. Lay mug rug flat and smooth out the fringe so that it isn’t tangled. Tape  it down with a piece of scotch tape wherever you want to cut it, then cut along the tape to get rid of the excess yarn.

    Done!

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    Don’t forget to share your finished project!

    Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to spread joy! Be sure to hashtag #yarnstashchallenge and tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!

  • Yarn-Wrapped Bottles

    Yarn-Wrapped Bottles

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    This project is part of the Yarn Stash Challenge.
    For more great ideas, or to join the fun, visit the Yarn Stash Challenge blog post!

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    Wrapping yarn around bottles is definitely not a new idea, but it is an easy one! What a great way to add some pretty decor to your home using yarn from your stash.

    This is also a great project for the kiddos! You could help them come up with some pretty embellishments to add to their jars, like buttons or little crocheted flowers.

    The Process

    Grab any bottle or other container you think will work. I used three of those little Starbucks Frappuccino bottles, but you could also use a beer or wine bottle, a can, or a jar. Be sure to clean it out first so it doesn’t start smelling!

    Attach the yarn to the top of the bottle with some sort of glue. I used a glue stick because it’s what I had, but if I’d have been able to find my super glue, I would’ve used that instead. You just need something that will bond quickly to help the yarn stay in place.

    Then, begin wrapping the bottle with the yarn. I tried to stick to a nice single layer of yarn, except on the lip of the bottle where the surface is uneven; for that part, I wound it thickly. The important thing is that the bottle isn’t showing through the yarn.

    When you get to the other end, snip off the yarn and glue it in place.

    I used some small budding branches from my tree out front to beautify the bottles even more.

    Simple as that!

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    Don’t forget to share your finished project!

    Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to spread joy! Be sure to hashtag #yarnstashchallenge and tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!

  • Desktop Succulent

    Desktop Succulent

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    This project is part of the Yarn Stash Challenge.
    For more great ideas, or to join the fun, visit the Yarn Stash Challenge blog post!

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    A cute succulent plant is a staple of the modern workspace. Grab a skein of green yarn from your stash and crochet one for yourself!

    The Process

    This little plant is made up of several individual pieces which are easily assembled at the end by weaving a single piece of yarn through the base of each leaf. It’s really that simple!

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    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

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    Desktop Succulent

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 6″ wide x 3″ tall

    Yarn: About 160 yards of a #4 weight yarn in a shade of green. I used Yarn Bee Rustic Romantic in “Window Ivy”, a color from my yarn stash that is discontinued. Use what you have! If you want to use a thinner yarn, just downsize your hook a bit and make a smaller succulent.

    Hook: F (4.0mm)

    Gauge: Unimportant

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    MC     (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SC (single crochet)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) This pattern is worked in a seamless spiral. Do not join, chain or turn unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
    (3) There are 3 different sizes of leaves to crochet. You’ll make 5 large, 5 medium, and 3 small.
    (4) To help you with assembly, I’ve put together a short video tutorial.

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    Pattern for LARGE leaves (make 5)

    To Begin: Make a Magic Circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)

    Round 2: SC in each St around. (6)

    Round 3: 2SC in each ST around. (12)

    Rounds 4-5: SC in each ST around. (12)

    Round 6: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)

    Rounds 7-14: SC in each St around. (18)

    Round 15: (SC2TOG, SC in next ST) around. (12)

    Round 16: SC in each ST around. (12)

    SL ST in each of the next 2 STS, then fasten off. Tuck starting tail inside leaf (or weave in if you want). Leave finishing tail attached.

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    Pattern for MEDIUM leaves (make 5)

    To Begin: Make a Magic Circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)

    Round 2: SC in each St around. (6)

    Round 3: 2SC in each ST around. (12)

    Rounds 4-5: SC in each ST around. (12)

    Round 6: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)

    Rounds 7-12: SC in each St around. (18)

    Round 13: (SC2TOG, SC in next ST) around. (12)

    Round 14: SC in each ST around. (12)

    SL ST in each of the next 2 STS, then fasten off. Tuck starting tail inside leaf (or weave in if you want). Leave finishing tail attached.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Pattern for SMALL leaves (make 3)

    To Begin: Make a Magic Circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)

    Round 2: SC in each St around. (6)

    Round 3: 2SC in each ST around. (12)

    Rounds 4-5: SC in each ST around. (12)

    Round 6: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)

    Rounds 7-10: SC in each St around. (18)

    Round 11: (SC2TOG, SC in next ST) around. (12)

    Round 12: SC in each ST around. (12)

    SL ST in each of the next 2 STS, then fasten off. Tuck starting tail inside leaf (or weave in if you want). Leave finishing tail attached.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Seaming

    Use photos below. With yarn needle and finishing tail, sew the opening of each leaf closed (1 & 2), then tie a knot (3). Poke yarn needle into leaf near the knot, push through the inside of the leaf and outside somewhere near the top (4); snip off the excess (5) and pull at leaf so that tail disappears inside.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Assembly

    Use the video below for additional guidance. 

    1. Cut a piece of yarn about 2 feet long and thread through a yarn needle. Fold bottom of LARGE leaf in half and thread needle through it to keep the fold in place; slide leaf down string, then add the next LARGE leaf and do the same. Continue with all five of the LARGE leaves.
    2. Continue with each of the five MEDIUM leaves.
    3. Continue with each of the three SMALL leaves. Run yarn needle through a few stitches on the first of the small leaves to connect it with the last leaf.
    4. Turn succulent over and run starting tail along the base of each of the 5 large leaves, pull tight, tie a few knots, and fasten off.
    5. Turn over again, arrange leaves as desired, and use finishing tail to run through leaves from top to bottom and back again in a few different spots (to help keep everything in place). Finish at the bottom, tie a few knots, and fasten off.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Don’t forget to share your finished project!

    Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to spread joy! Be sure to hashtag #yarnstashchallenge and tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!

  • Yarn Wall Hanging

    Yarn Wall Hanging

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    This project is part of the Yarn Stash Challenge.
    For more great ideas, or to join the fun, visit the Yarn Stash Challenge blog post!

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    I’ve been wanting to make a yarn wall hanging for forever! Yarn wall hangings are a great way to add a pop of color and rustic charm to a room. And they are so, so easy.

    So when I was looking for something fun to do with yarn from my stash, a wall hanging was the first thing I thought of. I found the process of making one to be calming and very therapeutic… which is exactly what I need right now.

    The Process

    First, I went on the search for a nice stick. You could also use a wooden dowel, if you have one, but a sturdy stick works just as well and gives it rustic charm. I found a stick that was almost a yard long, but any length you want is totally fine!

    Next I chose my color scheme.

    I wanted to stick with white, cream and navy, because those are the colors in my bedroom, where the art would go. I chose yarns with fun textures (finally, a use for all that fur yarn that was too hard to crochet with!) and made a pile on my kitchen table. Then I cut lots and lots of individual strands, making them more than twice as long as I wanted the wall hanging to be in the end.

    Then, I started attaching the yarn to the stick using the same method I use when I attach fringe to a crochet project: loop a strand of yarn and slide it down under the stick, then bring ends over stick and down through the loop. Pull tight.

    I didn’t have a specific plan going into it as far as color placement; I just decided as I went along, trying to keep it looking cozy and random. I really wanted to end up with a rustic look in the end. I also added braids every so often, just to change it up and add some visual interest. Then I tied string to the ends so I could hang it up.

    Once that was done, I trimmed the ends so they were generally straight. (Hint: Use tape across the bottom to guide your scissors.)

    Here’s what I ended up with:

    I’m in love with the finished product!

    Some Tips For You

    There are so many directions you can take this project. Here are some things to consider:

    Texture: Do you want a rustic look with lots of different textures? Or a more sleek look with only one type of smooth yarn?

    Color: Are you looking for a bright pop of cheerful colors? Or a more understated piece with just one or two basic shades? Do you want your colors to be randomly placed, or form a specific pattern?

    Shape: Do you want a basic rectangle or square shape? You could also cut your ends in a funky, jagged line, or keep them untrimmed for a more natural finish.

    Size: Your wall hanging doesn’t have to be as big as mine; even a stick that’s a foot or less will provide you with a great piece of art that you can hang anywhere in the house.

    If you need a little more help, just go to Etsy and search “yarn wall hanging.” Trust me, you’ll find plenty of inspiration!

    Make It A Family Affair

    Let your kids or grandkids help you, or – better yet – let them make one of their own! They can find their own stick and choose some fun colors, and you can teach them how to attach the yarn. Then, watch their creativity soar!

    Don’t forget to share your finished project!

    Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to spread joy! Be sure to hsashtag #yarnstashchallenge and tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!

  • Classic Easter Basket

    Classic Easter Basket

    So at the time I’m writing up this pattern, many of us are at the beginning of a long “social distancing” quarantine. A week ago, I wouldn’t have even known what that sentence meant, but now life is changing daily. What a strange time we are living in!

    Before we know it, Easter will be upon us! So here’s a fun pattern to get you ready, and if you already have a good cotton stash, you might not even have to make a craft store run.

    I’m sorry there’s no video for this one; now that I have all three boys home with me all day every day during the quarantine, there’s not much quiet time available for filming. (Let’s be honest, they’re boys; there’s, like, no quiet time whatsoever.) Luckily, many of the techniques will be familiar to anyone who has already made Yarn + Chai baskets!

    About the Yarn

    I used two different yarns to make this basket. The bulk of the basket is made with Bernat Softee Baby Cotton, double stranded throughout. The baby hues of this yarn offer lots of options for the perfect Easter color scheme! The white stripes around the basket were made with a small amount of Yarn Bee Soft & Sleek, which I already had in my stash, but any #4 aran weight yarn should work fine. I also used the Soft & Sleek to cover a strip of plastic canvas to serve as the handle.

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    I didn’t need more than one skein of any color to complete the project, so in order to double-strand the yarn, I brought both ends of the skein together and wound them into an already-double-stranded ball. That way, I could crochet from one ball instead of two skeins at a time. It took some prep work, but was well worth it!

    Leaving out the yellow color was a last-minute decision, so that’s why it’s still in the photo.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

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    EASTER BASKET

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 8″ wide x 3.75″ tall (excludes handle)

    Yarn: I used Bernat Softee Baby Cotton, a #3 weight cotton/acrylic blend, in these colors / amounts:

    • COLOR A (“Jade Frost”): 225 yards
    • COLOR B (“Dusk Sky”): 100 yards
    • COLOR C (“Petal”): 225 yards

    I also used a small amount of #4 aran weight stash yarn for the white surface-stitched lines around the basket, and about 30 yards of the same yarn to wrap around the basket handle.

    Hooks: H (5.0mm) and G/7 (4.25-4.50mm)

    Gauge: Your first 6 rounds should measure 2.75″ across.

    You’ll also need: Heavy duty plastic canvas

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    CH (chain)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    3rd Loop (see Special Stitches)
    CSC (crossed single crochet; see Special Stitches)

    Special Stitches:

    Crossed Single Crochet (CSC): Insert your hook, yarn under*, draw yarn through stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops. (*This is the only difference between a crossed single crochet and a standard single crochet, for which you would yarn over after inserting your hook.)

    3rd Loop: The 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this loop from the bottom.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) Much of the pattern is worked double-stranded.
    (3) When instructed to “join”, join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round.
    (4) The pattern uses the Crossed Single Crochet stitch, but could also be made with standard SC.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    PATTERN

    To Begin: With larger hook and COLOR A double stranded, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).

    Round 1: 6CSC in MC. Join. (6)

    Round 2: CH1, turn. 2CSC in each ST around. Join. (12)

    Round 3: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in next ST) around. Join. (18)

    Round 4: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join. (24)

    Round 5: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 3 STS) around. Join. (30)

    Round 6: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 4 STS) around. Join. (36)

    Round 7: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 5 STS) around. Join. (42)

    Round 8: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 6 STS) around. Join. (48)

    Round 9: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 7 STS) around. Join. (54)

    Round 10: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 8 STS) around. Join. (60)

    Round 11: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 9 STS) around. Join. (66)

    Round 12: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 10 STS) around. Join. (72)

    Round 13: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 11 STS) around. Join. (78)

    Round 14: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 12 STS) around. Join. (84)

    Round 15: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 13 STS) around. Join. (90)

    Round 16: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 14 STS) around. Join. (96)

    Rounds 17-20: CH1, turn. CSC in each ST around. Join. (96)

    Attach COLOR B double stranded. Fasten off COLOR A.

    Rounds 21-24: CH1, turn. CSC in each ST around. Join. (96)

    Attach COLOR C double stranded. Fasten off COLOR B.

    Rounds 25-28: CH1, turn. CSC in each ST around. Join. (96)

    Attach COLOR A double stranded. Fasten off COLOR C.

    Round 29: CH1, turn. CSC in each ST around. Join. (96)

    Round 30: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join. (96)

    Switch to smaller hook.

    Round 31: CH1, turn. CSC in 3rd loop only of each St around. Join. (96)

    Round 32: CH1, turn. CSC in each ST around. Join. (96)

    Attach COLOR B double stranded. Fasten off COLOR A.

    Rounds 33-46 (or until last round reaches bottom of basket when folded down inside): CH1, turn. CSC in each ST around. Join. (96)

    Fasten off; weave in all ends.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Adding White Lines with Surface Crochet (Optional)

    With larger hook and white #4 aran weight yarn (single-stranded), and beginning at the seam, use the surface crochet technique to slip stitch 4 white lines around the basket, along the lines where two colors meet. Fasten off and weave in ends. B. Hooked Crochet has a great video on how to do this technique if you have never done it before.

    Once you’ve done this, here’s what your basket should look like when unfolded:

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Adding Plastic Canvas

    Cut across your plastic canvas to make strips that are the same height as the inner layer of the basket. Set your basket so that it is completely unfolded. Roll up a strip of canvas and insert it into the bottom of the basket, allowing it to expand up against the walls of the basket. Continue adding as many layers as you want to make it as stiff as you want. Fold the inside layer down over the canvas. Work the fabric until it all lays neat and flat.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Adding a Handle

    Cut two more long strips of plastic canvas, this time only about 6 squares wide. Hold the strips together (layered one on top of the other) and use your white aran weight yarn to cover them using either a simple wrap-around, or a woven look (as I did). For my strap, I attached 6 very long strands of yarn to the top row of squares so that I had 12 long strands to work with (we’re talking a few yards long). I divided them in half and very carefully layered them over the canvas and each other, over and over down the canvas, similar to a braiding motion. I was careful to smooth out the yarn each time so it laid nice and flat and covered the most ground. When I got to the ends, I superglued everything in place and cut off the excess. Once I was done I superglued the handles to the inside of the basket.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    You’re done!

    I hope you enjoyed this pattern. If you’re sharing your easter basket on social media, be sure to use hashtag #classiceasterbasket and tag me @yarnandchai.design!

  • Eva Cardigan

    Eva Cardigan

    It’s hard to believe I’m ready to release my first garment pattern, because this has been a looooong process!

    I can’t even tell you how many times over the last year that I’ve started designing a garment and ended up scrapping the whole thing. I can create hats and scarves in my sleep, but garment design is a whole new beast!

    Part of the reason it was such a process is because I was determined to design it the right way — with size inclusivity. This cardigan pattern includes 9 sizes, from XS through 5XL, because we all deserve to wear our beautiful creations! But… it meant lots of learning and lots of calculations. Now that I’ve done it, I can say that I definitely did learn a lot and my next design should be much easier on my brain. (FYI, my model is 5’1 and is wearing XS, her usual clothing size.)

    ABOUT THE YARN

    The beautiful heathered yarn in my sample is Yarn Bee Soft & Sleek DK (order it through my affiliate link here). I strongly recommend it, BUT, please read on for my important notes about it.

    It’s just as soft as it is pretty, and I absolutely loved working with it. The skeins are generous at 478 yards, and while I can’t say I’ve really tested it out, it is a low-pill yarn. I used Mink (color A), Cloud Control (color B), and Pink Lemonade (color C) in my sample cardigan.

    The only strange thing about this particular yarn is that while it’s classified as a #3 weight, it feels a whole lot more like a #1. That’s quite a difference, right!? I did some investigating online, and most of the reviews I found agreed. I also compared its yards-to-grams ratio with other #1, #2 and #3 yarns, and it most definitely fit in the #1 category. I have no explanation for this, but you’ll need to keep it in mind if you decide to use a substitute; you’ll want to start with a #1, or thin #2, yarn. And it should go without saying, but please do a gauge check.

    Update: I asked in my Facebook group what substitute yarns people were using successfully with this pattern, and here’s a list! Please note that crocheters have been able to meet the pattern gauge with each of these yarns, but they may have used a slightly smaller or larger hook size to do so. It’s all part of the gauging process!

    • Loops & Threads Woolike (Michael’s)
    • Cotton Kings (Hobbii)
    • Dotted Line (Lion Brand)
    • It’s A Wrap Rainbow (Red Heart)
    • Yarn Bee Glint of Glam (Hobby Lobby)
    • Amazing Lace (Lion Brand)
    • Yarn Bee Pigment (Hobby Lobby)

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    I’ve put together a step-by-step video tutorial for you visual learners! This video is meant to help you as you work from the written pattern and goes over each technique that you’ll need to complete your cardigan, from the linen stitch to seaming.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Eva Cardigan

    Language
    American Standard

    Difficulty
    Easy

    Finished Sizes
    Pattern is written for sizes XS – 5XL (see chart for specific measurements). Cardigan has a loose fit, with 6-8″ positive ease.

    Hook
    G (4.5mm) or whichever hook is needed to meet gauge. You may also want to have a smaller hook handy (see Note #2). My favorite hooks are Clover Amour (affiliate link).

    Yarn
    I used Yarn Bee Soft & Sleek DK (affiliate link), a soft, heathered yarn from Hobby Lobby that is categorized as a #3 weight, but please note that it feels more like a fingering weight (#1!). Most of the online reviews I’ve read agree with this assessment, and its yardage-to-grams ratio would suggest that it is a fingering weight. It was a great yarn to work with, but if you don’t have access to it, I strongly suggest working up a gauge swatch in a fingering or light sport yarn as #3 weights will be too thick.

    The table below will tell you how much yarn you will need for your size. Please note that the number of skeins required is specific to Yarn Bee Soft & Sleek DK, and if you use a different yarn, you’ll need to go by yardage when deciding how much to purchase.

    Gauge
    25 STS x 27 rows = 4″ square (worked in the linen stitch). To get an accurate gauge, which is especially important in a garment pattern, you should work up a swatch that is larger than 4″ and measure within it, away from the edges. (Tip: Work up one of the pockets as your gauge swatch. That way, you’ll already have one pocket ready to go!)

    You’ll also need
    Yarn needle

    Terms and Abbreviations
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    SC2TOG (single crochet 2 together; see Special Stitch)
    BLO (back loop only)

    Special Stitch

    SC2TOG (single crochet 2 together): In this pattern, SC2TOGs will be worked over two CH1 spaces. Complete them as follows: Insert hook in next CH1 space, yarn over and pull up loop (2 loops on hook); insert hook in next CH1 space, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook); yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook. This will decrease your stitch count by 2 (1 SC and 1 CH1 space).

    Notes

    1. A video tutorial is available up in the post, or by clicking here.
    2. When I work the linen stitch (the stitch used throughout this pattern), my fabric tends to pull in a bit after the first couple of rows. To avoid this, I use a smaller (3.5mm) hook for the initial chain and the first row, before switching to my regular hook. This is not noted in the pattern, but you might find it helpful if your first couple of rows are coming out wider. If you choose to stick with the regular hook, be sure to keep a tight tension in those first couple of rows.
    3. Each row will have an equal number of stitches and CH1 spaces. The sum of these is reflected in the stitch counts. For example, a stitch count of 78 means that row has 39 stitches + 39 CH1 spaces.
    4. Pattern is written for sizes Xs-5XL, with counts for sizes S-5XL written in parentheses. Example: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) It might help to highlight the correct counts for your size before you begin.
    5. To avoid redundancy, pattern has been written out as “regular rows” and “decrease rows”, with applicable stitch counts included for each row.  Use the following instructions for each:

    Regular Row: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SC in first CH1 space. (CH1, SC in next CH1 space) across.
    Decrease Row: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SC2TOG over first 2 CH1 spaces. (CH1, SC in next CH1 space) across.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Back Panel (make 1)

    For this panel, you’ll crochet 7 color blocks of 28 (sizes XS-L) or 29 (sizes XL-5XL) rows per block. There are no increases or decreases. 

    To begin: With COLOR A, CH116 (128,140,152,164,178,190,202,214).

    Row 1: SC in 4th CH from hook (counts as first CH1 space and first SC). (CH1, SK1, SC in next) across.
    Stitch count (will remain the same for each row): 114 (126,138,150,162,176,188,200,212)

    Rows 2-28 (XS-L) OR 2-29 (XL-5XL): Regular row.

    Switch to COLOR B.

    Rows 29-56 (XS-L) OR 30-58 (XL-5XL): Regular row.

    Switch to COLOR C.

    Rows 57-84 (XS-L) OR 59-87 (XL-5XL): Regular row. 

    Switch to COLOR A.

    Rows 85-112 (XS-L) OR 88-116 (XL-5XL): Regular row.

    Switch to COLOR B.

    Rows 113-140 (XS-L) OR 117-145 (XL-5XL): Regular row. 

    Switch to COLOR C.

    Rows 141-168 (XS-L) OR 146-174 (XL-5XL): Regular row. 

    Switch to COLOR A.

    Rows 169-196 (XS-L) OR 175-203 (XL-5XL): Regular row. 

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Front Panels (make 2)

    For these panels, you’ll crochet 7 color blocks of 28 (sizes XS-L) or 29 (sizes XL-5XL) rows per block. There are no increases or decreases. 

    To begin: With COLOR A, CH44 (50,56,62,68,74,80,88,94).

    Row 1: SC in 4th CH from hook (counts as first CH1 space and first SC). (CH1, SK1, SC in next) across.
    Stitch count (will remain the same for each row): 42 (48,54,60,66,72,78,86,92)

    Rows 2-28 (XS-L) OR 2-29 (XL-5XL): Regular row.

    Switch to COLOR B.

    Rows 29-56 (XS-L) OR 30-58 (XL-5XL): Regular row.

    Switch to COLOR C.

    Rows 57-84 (XS-L) OR 59-87 (XL-5XL): Regular row.

    Switch to COLOR A.

    Rows 85-112 (XS-L) OR 88-116 (XL-5XL): Regular row.

    Switch to COLOR B.

    Rows 113-140 (XS-L) OR 117-145 (XL-5XL): Regular row.

    Switch to COLOR C.

    Rows 141-168 (XS-L) OR 146-174 (XL-5XL): Regular row.

    Switch to COLOR A.

    Rows 169-196 (XS-L) OR 175-203 (XL-5XL): Regular row.

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Sleeves (make 2)

    For the sleeves, you’ll begin with COLOR B and crochet 3 color blocks of 28 rows per block, with decrease rows scattered throughout, before adding ribbing at the end. As a reminder, a decrease row is: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SC2TOG over first 2 CH1 spaces. (CH1, SC in next CH1 space) across.

    IMPORTANT: When you finish a color, fasten it off with a tail long enough to be used for seaming the edges of that color block together.

    To begin: With COLOR B, CH80 (86,92,98,104,110,116,122,128).

    Row 1: SC in 4th CH from hook (counts as first CH1 space and first SC). (CH1, SK1, SC in next) across. (78 [84, 90, 96, 102, 108, 114, 120, 126] )

    Rows 2-11: Regular row. (78 [84, 90, 96, 102, 108, 114, 120, 126] )

    Row 12: Decrease row. (76 [82, 88, 94, 100, 106, 112, 118, 124] )

    Row 13: Decrease row. (74 [80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110, 116, 122] )

    Rows 14-24: Regular row. (74 [80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110, 116, 122] )

    Row 25: Decrease row.  (72 [78, 84, 90, 96, 102, 108, 114, 120] )

    Row 26: Decrease row. (70 [76, 82, 88, 94, 100, 106, 112, 118] )

    Rows 27-37 (switch to COLOR C on Row 29): Regular row. (70 [76, 82, 88, 94, 100, 106, 112, 118] )

    Row 38: Decrease row. (68 [74, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110, 116] )

    Row 39: Decrease row. (66 [72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102, 108, 114] )

    Rows 40-50: Regular row. (66 [72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102, 108, 114] )

    Row 51: Decrease row. (64 [70, 76, 82, 88, 94, 100, 106, 112] )

    Row 52: Decrease row. (62 [68, 74, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110] )

    Rows 53-63 (switch to COLOR A on Row 57): Regular row. (62 [68, 74, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110] )

    Row 64: Decrease row. (60 [66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102, 108] )

    Row 65: Decrease row. (58 [64, 70, 76, 82, 88, 94, 100, 106] )

    Rows 66-76: Regular row. (58 [64, 70, 76, 82, 88, 94, 100, 106] )

    Row 77: Decrease row. (56 [62, 68, 74, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104] )

    Row 78: Decrease row. (54 [60, 66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102] )

    Rows 79-85 (switch to COLOR B on Row 85): Regular row. (54 [60, 66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102] )

    Row 86: CH1, turn. SC in first SC, SK first CH1 space, SC in next SC, SC in next CH1 space, SK next SC, SC in next CH1 space. (SC in next SC, SK next CH1 space, SC in next SC, SC in next CH1 space, SK next SC, SC in next CH1 space) across. (36 [40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68] )

    Keep hook inserted for next step.

    Next, we will be creating the ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the sleeve as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 86”; that’s the last row of the sleeve we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to. I cover this in the video tutorial for this pattern, but if you feel you need a little more in-depth help with this part, here’s another tutorial video that is specifically about this technique.

    CH17.

    Row 1: Turn. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 15 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Row 86, the stitch on which your CH17 was built. SL ST into the next ST from Row 86. (16, plus the two slip stitches along Row 86)

    The section we just created, built on the CH17, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 86, SC in BLO of each of the first 15 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (16)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 15 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 SCs  along row 86. (16, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 86)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 86, SC in BLO of each of the first 15 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (16)

    Rows 5-the end: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way across Row 86. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming this color section.

    Fold sleeve in half lengthwise and use long finishing tails to seam each color block together. Weave in all ends and keep sleeve inside out.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Pockets (make 2)

    For the pockets, you’ll simply crochet two rectangles with Color A. Easy!

    To begin: With COLOR A, CH36 (36, 36, 36, 40, 40, 40, 40, 40).

    Row 1: SC in 4th CH from hook (counts as first CH1 space and first SC). (CH1, SK1, SC in next) across.
    Stitch count (will remain the same for each row): 34 (34, 34, 34, 38, 38, 38, 38, 38)

    Rows 2-32 (XS-L) OR 2-36 (XL-5XL): Regular row. 

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing pocket to cardigan later. Weave in starting tail.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Seaming

    It’s time to seam it all together! Here are a few tips before you begin:

    • Use the mattress stitch to seam your work (demonstrated in the tutorial video).
    • Be sure to seam everything inside out. There are no “wrong sides” on your flat panels, but once you begin seaming, stay consistent and make sure all of your seams are facing out (including the arm seams that you already did). When you’re done seaming, you can flip everything right-side out.
    • When seaming the arms to the cardigan, you can use a 1:1 ratio; meaning, each single stitch along the arm hole will be seamed up with a single row along the side of the cardigan.

    Seam up your cardigan in this order, using the diagram below as a visual:

    1. With COLOR A, seam the tops of the front panels to the top of the back panel as shown.
    2. With COLOR B, seam the arms (make sure they’re inside out!) to body of cardigan.
    3. Seam down the sides of the cardigan using whichever color you are joining. You’ll have more ends to weave in, but it looks better than seaming it with all one color.
    4. Sew the pockets to the front panels, just above the last color block.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Collar

    Our final step is to add the collar with COLOR A. We’re going to lay the foundation by starting at the bottom corner of the front panel (indicated on the diagram below) and working a “regular row” up the side, across the middle of the back panel, and down the opposite side. Since there are no stitches to work into along the edges of the front panels, you’ll be treating each row as one stitch. This is demonstrated in the tutorial video.

    To begin: Attach COLOR A; CH2 (counts as first CH1 space). (CH1, SK1, SC in next) across, working up the side, across the back and down the other side. Be sure to end with an SC.

    Rows 2-12: Regular rows.

    Fasten off and weave in ends.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #evacardigan and tag me @yarnandchai.design. I can’t wait to see your finished cardigan!

  • Crocheted Christmas Wall Hanging

    Crocheted Christmas Wall Hanging

    I have a fun Christmas project for you!

    I got the idea for this crocheted wall art while I was walking through the Christmas section of Hobby Lobby. I kept seeing these popular farmhouse-style paintings of a wreath mounted on wood, and I thought… I could do something like that! Of course I wanted to put my own crocheted spin on it, so I gathered some supplies and got to work.

    The 18″x18″ canvas, wreath and “Joy” ornament were all from Hobby Lobby, as well as the yarn I used: Yarn Bee Must Be Merino Aran in White.

    First, I crocheted a 20″x20″ square piece of fabric. I did the first third of it in the Malia stitch pattern, the middle in the herringbone half double crochet stitch, and the last section in Malia again. Then, I staple-gunned it to the canvas (shout out to my dad, who is alway up for helping me with my projects), being careful to keep everything nice and straight and taut. Here’s what it looked like on the front:

    And on the back:

    Not so pretty on the back! But that’s just the nature of crocheted fabric. As long as the front is nice and smooth, who cares!

    After I finished with the canvas, I attached the small wreath using some 20 gauge wire that I found in the jewelry section. I simply stuck the wire through the wreath in two nearby places, then through the crocheted fabric and canvas to the back, where I joined the wire ends by twisting them together. I did that again in two more places around the wreath to keep everything in place. Then I set the “joy” ornament in the middle; I didn’t attach it, because I want to be able to change it out, but you could easily hot glue it in place.

    And that’s all there is to it!

    You could totally crochet up a different fabric for the canvas; you don’t have to use the same stitches I did. Just make sure it’s about 2″ wider than the canvas you are using, all the way around. You’ll need those extra inches to wrap it around the edge.

    Prefer a PDF?

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    Crocheted Christmas Wall Hanging

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 20″ x 20″ fabric (to cover an 18″ square canvas)

    Hook: H (5.0 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: Yarn Bee Must Be Merino Aran, a #4 aran weight yarn. I used about 500 yards, or a little more than 3 skeins, of the color “White”.

    Gauge: 15 HDC = 4″ across.

    You’ll also need: 18″ square canvas, wreath (mine is about 12″), decoration for center, staple gun, 20 gauge wire

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)
    HHDC (herringbone half double crochet – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:

    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Herringbone HDC (HHDC)
    Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) If you don’t want to worry about gauge, just use a ruler and chain any odd amount. Measure your first couple of rows to make sure they are about 2″ wider than the canvas.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To begin: CH77.

    Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (76)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 74 STS. SC in final ST. (76)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (76)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 37 times. SC in final ST. (76)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (76)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 74 STS. SC in final ST. (76)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (76)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 37 times. SC in final ST. (76)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (76)

    Rows 10-25: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 2 more times. (76)

    Rows 26-30: Repeat Rows 2-6. (76)

    Rows 31-48: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (76)

    Row 49: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (76)

    Row 50: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 74 STS. SC in final ST. (76)

    Row 51: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (76)

    Row 52: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 37 times. SC in final ST. (76)

    Row 53: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (76)

    Row 54: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 74 STS. SC in final ST. (76)

    Row 55: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (76)

    Row 56: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 37 times. SC in final ST. (76)

    Row 57: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (76)

    Rows 58-73: Repeat Rows 50-57, in order, 2 more times. (76)

    Rows 74-78: Repeat Rows 50-54. (76)

    Fasten off and weave all ends into the wrong side of the fabric.

    Attaching Fabric to Canvas

    Carefully attach the fabric to the canvas by wrapping it around the edges and securing it with a staple gun. Begin by choosing one edge and stapling right in its center, then stretch fabric taut and straight across canvas and staple center on the opposite edge. Keeping fabric taut, staple the center on the third edge, then staple 4th and final edge. See image for visual:

    After all 4 edges are attached, continue by stapling fabric on either side of the first staple, on each edge. (I turned my canvas over several times to make sure everything was nice and straight, using the lines of the fabric as a guide.) See red Xs in image:

    Continue to staple out from the center on each edge until fabric is completely attached. You can then go around and add more staples where you think they are needed.

    Attaching wreath

    After your fabric is attached to the canvas, it’s time to add the wreath! I attached mine with 20 gauge wire by threading both ends of one piece of wire through a section of the wreath (two different spots, but super close together), through the fabric, and through the canvas, then twisting them together on the back of the canvas. I did this in three parts of the wreath to keep everything secure.

    If you want, you can add another decoration to the center. I used an ornament that I found at Hobby Lobby; I simply removed the string, and placed it strategically so that the branches covered up the holes in the ornament. I did not permanently attach the ornament, but if you want to, you can use a hot glue gun.

    And that’s it! I hope you love your new wall decor!

    If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design. Stay cozy!

  • Simple Twisted Earwarmer

    Simple Twisted Earwarmer

    There are so many reasons I love earwarmers. I love wearing them on days when I want my hair up; but beyond that, they’re such a quick, easy crochet project! This one is particularly mindless because it’s simply rows of half double crochet in back loops only, and finished with a beautiful twist that’s much easier than it looks.

    And, if you’re trying to build a craft fair inventory, earwarmers can be a great addition! (Tip: choose just a handful of styles, and work them up in several modern colors. They’re sure to sell!)

    But whether you’re selling, making Christmas gifts, or just making yourself something to feel beautiful in, this pattern is for you.

    Video Tutorial

    You can follow along with me with this tutorial video, regardless of what size you are making! I put the pattern instructions right on screen so you can relax and go at your own pace. Be sure to subscribe, too!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    Simple Twisted Earwarmer

    Difficulty: Beginner/Easy

    Finished Sizes: 17″ x 3.5″ (toddler), 18″ x 4″ (child), 20″ x 4.5″ (teen/adult small), 21″ x 4.5″ (adult large)

    Hook: H (5.0 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: Cascade Longwood Sport, a #3 weight yarn, in the following amounts: 80 yds (toddler), 90 yds (child), 110 yds (teen/adult small), 115 yds (adult large). Color used in sample is “Oatmeal”.

    Gauge: 16 HDC (worked in BLO) x 12.5 rows = 4″ square

    You’ll also need: yarn needle

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    CH (chain)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    BLO (back loop only)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) To resize earwarmer, your starting chain can be any number.
    (4) Pattern is written for toddler size with additional sizes in brackets [child, teen/adult small, adult large]. So, for example, if it says “CH71 [75, 85, 89]”, the first number is for the toddler size, and the numbers in brackets are child, teen/adult small, and adult large instructions, respectively. If you are working from printed instructions, it helps to circle or highlight the numbers you are following before you begin.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To begin: CH69 [73, 81, 85].

    Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (68 [72, 80, 84])

    Rows 2-12 [2-13, 2-14, 2-14]: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. HDC in BLO of each of the next 66 [70, 78, 82] STS; 1 ST remains. HDC in both loops of final ST. (68 [72, 80, 84])

    Fasten off, leaving a tail for seaming. Weave in starting tail only.

    Seaming with a Twist

    1. Thread the long finishing tail through your yarn needle and gently set it aside. Lay ear warmer flat, then gather the edges and layer them together as shown.

    2. Thread the yarn needle across the edges, being sure to grab yarn from all four layers.

    3. Continue to weave the yarn needle back and forth across the surface of the edges, being sure to grab yarn from all four layers each time.

    4. Weave in the tail, then turn earwarmer right side out.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #simpletwistedearwarmer and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Stay warm out there!