Category: Crochet Patterns

Tabby Chic Cat Bed
If you follow me on social media, you know that we’ve recently added a very unlikely member to our family. And when I say “unlikely”, I mean that never in my life did I ever think I would own a cat. My older sister was allergic to them, so I never had one growing up; and, I have always been a big dog person. Like, literally, big dogs. Not cats. While I love animals of all kinds, I just never had an interest in owning a cat. So a month ago, if you’d told me I was going to be publishing a pattern for a cat bed, I would have given you a very strange look.

But, here we are!

And that’s all thanks to Simba, the little orange cat that coughed and sneezed his way into a permanent place in our family.

He came to us with a bad upper respiratory infection, ear mites, and eyes so red and gunky he couldn’t hardly open them after a nap. And I tried really hard to stay unattached. But this kitty is impossible not to love. When I was crocheting on the couch one morning not long after we brought him home, he came over, wrapped his paws around my arm, laid his head on me, and fell asleep; and that’s pretty much how he is all the time — cuddly and sweet, and just wanting to be with people. When we didn’t receive any leads on our “lost kitty” posts for a week, I finally admitted to myself that even though I’ve never been a cat person, I really wanted to be his person. And we decided to keep him.

A few days after that decision, I hosted our church’s Women’s Life Group at my home as I do every week. One of the women who attends owns a large horse farm a few miles from our church (where my husband found Simba), and the moment she saw him, she immediately recognized him as one of her barn kitties that had been missing for a while. My heart sank. But when I told her we’d give him back (after all, my children had known from the beginning that his owners might show up), this wonderful woman didn’t even hesitate to say “No, he’s yours. I think he chose your family. God meant him for you.”

And that’s the story of how Simba chose our family!

Of course, I decided pretty early on that I needed to make him something. I thought a bed would be the perfect thing, and I wanted it to have a rustic look to it, so I headed to Michaels to find a thick, rustic yarn, and Loops & Threads Chunky was the perfect fit. I also designed a cute little tag for it and ordered the finished item from MemorableLand on Etsy. Dmitry did a wonderful job putting my vision on these wooden tags!

–

About the Rescued Tag

Now, I guess Simba isn’t technically a rescue pet. We now know where he came from, and had we not wanted him, he would have been welcomed back to his farm with open arms. But I had ordered these wooden tags from MemorableLand before we had that information… and given the fact that I was in a bit of a rough patch when this little kitty came into our lives, it’s safe to say that Simba sort of “rescued” me out of the funk that I was in. Anyone who has a pet knows how healing they can be for the soul, and Simba has most definitely been that for me over the past few weeks!

The word “Rescued” holds a lot of meaning for me, in more ways than one; it’s also a meaningful reminder of how Christ rescued me, and that’s a wonderful thing to be reminded of, especially as we celebrate Easter this weekend!

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TABBY CHIC CAT BED

Level: Easyish

Size: 17″ wide x 5″ tall

Materials:
- S hook (19.00mm) – and YES, I really did use an S hook, and that really is an S hook in the photos. I have a very tight tension. If you don’t, you should use a smaller hook.
- Yarn needle
- Approximately 140 yards of Loops & Threads Chunky (<6 skeins). Sample shown in “Oatmeal” (currently sold out online, but my store had plenty). Loops & Threads Chunky is a #6 super bulky yarn, HOWEVER, if you are substituting, I would strongly recommend using a #7 Jumbo yarn. (The yarn I used really should be classified as a #7, as it’s significantly thicker than any #6 yarn I’ve ever used.)
- Stitch marker or bobby pin
Gauge:
Your first 4 rounds should measure 7″ across.

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
CH (chain)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. Instead of putting your HDC in the top loops, reach your hook past the back loop where you’ll find a 3rd loop on the side of the stitch. Insert your hook there to create your HDC. This forces both of the top loops to rest on the front of your project, creating a ribbing effect. In other patterns it is also referred to as a Camel Stitch or RibHDC.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) This pattern is worked mostly in a seamless round. At Round 10, you will chain and turn, and then continue on in a seamless round in the opposite direction. This is all noted in the pattern.
(3) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.

How To Make It Larger:
It’s relatively simple, so hopefully my explanation won’t sound toocomplicated. What you’ll want to do is continue increasing your base until it’s about 1-2 inches smaller than the size you want the bed to be. On the very last repeat of the last round you did, use SC instead of HDC for all but the last two stitches; use slip stitches for the final two stitches. (This is the equivalent of Round 9 in the pattern.) So for instance, if you did 10 increase rounds, your 10th round would be:

(2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 8 STS) 7 times. 2 SC in next, 1 SC in each of the next 6 STS, 1 SL ST in each of the next 2 STS. (80)

Then, CH1 and turn, and do a final increase round in HDC (this is the equivalent of Round 10 in the pattern). Continue on with Round 11 and follow the pattern as written (your stitch counts will be different).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using S Hook, make a magic circle.

Round 1: CH1. 8 HDC in MC. (8)

Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around. (16)

Round 3: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around. (24)

Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (32)

Round 5: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (40)

Round 6: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (48)

Round 7: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (56)

Round 8: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 6 STS) around. (64)

Round 9: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 7 STS) 7 times. 2 SC in next, 1 SC in each of the next 5 STS, 1 SL ST in each of the next 2 STS. (72)

Note: The end of round 9 should smooth down your round to blend in, instead of ending with the jagged edge that working a seamless round causes. This will enable us to chain up in the next round, turn our work, and begin working seamlessly in the other direction.

Round 10: CH1, turn your work. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 8 STS) around. Do not join. (80)

Rounds 11-14: In 3rd loops, HDC in each ST around. (80)

Round 15: In 3rd loops, SC in each of the next 75 STS. SL ST in 3rd loops of each of the next 5 STS. (80)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.
March 26, 2016
Marion Slouch
Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for supplying the yarn for this sample!

If you’ve spent any time around my blog, you know how much I loooooove slouch hats. I just can’t get enough of them. I never considered myself a hat person until I created and tried on my first slouchy hat, but from that moment on, I was hooked.

Today, I’m adding another slouchy pattern to my growing collection!

This one is sort of a “sister hat” to the South Haven Slouch. It uses the same basic structure, but I’ve added some cute new detailing between the ribbing sections to create a very different finished look.

For the sample, I used Lion Brand’s LB Collection 100% Superwash Merino Wool in “Cherry”. I love this yarn. It’s only available on Lion Brand’s web site or in their stores, but it’s so worth ordering. It’s the same yarn I used for this gorgeous cowl.

I tried to photograph the hat from a few different angles to really give you a sense of the finished look. Here’s what it looks like from the (angled) front:

And here’s the back. Like the South Haven Slouch, this one has a rippled top that gives it a faux-cinched look.

So grab your hooks and yarn, and let’s get started!

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THE MARION SLOUCH HAT

Level: Easyish (technically closer to intermediate, but if you’re a confident crocheter and comfortable with reading patterns, you canpull this off!)

Size:
One Size Fits Most (Teen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 10” across at band, and is 9” tall. I like just a little bit of slouch in my slouch hats, but if you like more, you can add rounds to the body of the hat.

Materials:
- H hook (5.00mm) and G hook (4.25mm)
- Yarn needle
- 240-250 yards of Lion Brand LB Collection 100% Superwash Merino Wool. The color in the photos is Cherry.
- Stitch marker or bobby pin (optional, but super helpful)
Gauge:
With H hook, 7 rows of 9HDC = 2″ square

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
CH (chain)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SK (skip)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
SC2TOG (single crochet 2 together)
RibHDC (also known as Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC; see Special Terminology, below)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. Instead of putting your HDC in the top loops, reach your hook past the back loop where you’ll find a 3rd loop on the side of the stitch. Insert your hook there to create your HDC. This forces both of the top loops to rest on the front of your project, creating a ribbing effect. In other patterns it is also referred to as a Camel Stitch or RibHDC.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in joined rounds. You will turn at the beginning of some rounds, and not others. Pay attention!
(3) Even though this pattern is worked in joined rounds, it is recommended that you keep a stitch marker or two handy. I found that placing a stitch marker in the first and last stitches of my rounds really helped me to not get confused about my starting and ending stitches. When working back and forth between regular loops and 3rd loops (beginning on Round 7), it can be hard to tell which stitch is technically your last stitch of the round… and, when we start turning our rounds during the SC+HDC texture in Round 11, it’s just easier to keep track of where to place your stitches.
(4) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(5) It goes without saying, but count your stitches! Once you’re done increasing, you should consistently have 100 stitches per round (until you get to the band).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using H Hook, make a magic circle.

Round 1: CH1. 10 HDC in MC. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (10)

Round 2: CH1. 2 HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (20)

Round 3: CH1. 2 HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (40)

Note: At this point you should have a floppy-looking circle. This is a good thing. It will continue to get floppier as we increase, and then it will smooth itself out on the body of the hat. That’s how we create the cinched look on the top.

Round 4: CH1. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (60)

Round 5: CH1. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (80)

Round 6: CH1. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 7: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 8: CH1. HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 9: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 10: CH1. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Note: Joining and turning while working in the round is something you don’t see very often in patterns, and that little slip stitch at the end of the round can really throw you off because when you turn, it looks like a stitch… but it’s not, and needs to be ignored. This is where using a stitch marker will really come in handy. Just before you SL ST to the first SC in Round 10, mark your final stitch of the round with a stitch marker (1st photo). Then do your join (2nd photo). When you move on to Round 11, CH1 and turn as per the instructions (3rd photo). When instructed to SK the first ST, you’ll know to skip right over the stitch marker and do your first SC+HDC in the stitch immediately following it (4th photo).

Rounds 11-13: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 14: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 15: CH1, do not turn. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 16: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 17: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 18: CH1. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Rounds 19-21: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 22: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 23: CH1, do not turn. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 24: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 25: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 26: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 27: CH1. (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 8 STS) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (90)

Round 28: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (90)

Switch to G hook.

Rounds 29-38: SC around.

Note: At some point around Round 33, you may want to check the band of the hat to see if it’s measuring about 10 inches. If it’s measuring much bigger than that, you may want to grab a smaller hook to finish things off.

Smooth out the round by slip stitching into the first 3 STS of the next round. Fasten off and weave in ends.
February 25, 2016
Comfy Squares Color Block Cowl

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for supplying the yarn for this sample!

I know, I know. This one looks familiar. I already used this stitch on a cowl, so what am I doing releasing the same pattern again?

But it’s not the same pattern!

I’ve said it many times — when I find a stitch I love, I get really fixated on it. This has been one of those stitches. So far I’ve made that other cowl, boot cuffs, and a gorgeous rustic-modern blanket.

So for this cowl, I decided that I really wanted it in a color-blocked style. I had my eye on some yarn from Lion Brand’s LB Collection, called 100% Superwash Merino, that I wanted to use. The problem with that other cowl is that I worked it in vertical rows instead of horizontal, so I couldn’t have achieved the color-blocked look with that pattern. So, I decided to write up a similar-but-different pattern, working it in horizontal rows this time. I love how it turned out!

About the Yarn

I don’t wear a lot of bright colors; I’m most comfortable in blacks and grays. (I’m not a sad person, I promise. I just find gray very cozy.) But I have been trying to inject a little color into my wardrobe lately, and my favorite color to pair with classic gray is deep purple. 100% Superwash Merino Yarn from the LB Collection is a really pretty lightweight (#3) yarn that has a nice array of colors to choose from. I chose Wisteria, Charcoal, and Purple for my cowl. The yarn itself was a pleasure to work with. There was virtually no splitting (yay!) and it showed of the stitches really nicely. LB Collection Yarn is only available online at lionbrand.com, their studio in NYC, their outlet in New Jersey, or in the Lion Design catalog. (In other words, you won’t find it at the big craft stores or in your local yarn shop.)

If you’re thinking about using 100% Superwash Merino from Lion Brand in your own cowl, here are a few color schemes I put together that you might like:

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COMFY SQUARES COLOR BLOCK COWL

Level: Easy

Size: Cowl measures 28″ wide by 14.5″ tall before seaming.*
*It should probably be noted here that while most of my patterns are modeled on real people, this one is staged on a standard sized jewelry bust that you find at craft stores, which is only about 10″ wide at the shoulders. Keep this in mind when you decide whether or not to adjust the pattern, because if you want it to look as full on you as it does in the photo, you’ll want to increase your starting chain (just keep it an odd number). The good news is, if you use the recommended yarn, you’ll have plenty of yarn in your skeins to do it.

Hook: H (5.00mm)

Yarn: LB Collection 100% Superwash Merino (#3 light yarn) in 3 colors. You will need 170 yards each of the bottom two colors, and 205 yards of the top color (it uses more because of the ribbing at the top).

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Gauge: A row of 18SC = about 4″ in length.

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
FPDC (front post double crochet)
BPDC (back post double crochet)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(3) To adjust the width of your cowl, add or subtract from your starting CH (just begin with an odd number of CHs). To adjust the length of your blanket, add or subtract an even number of rows to/from each color block.
(4) Cowl is worked from the bottom up, so keep this in mind when choosing the order of colors you work with.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
With first color, CH125.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC across. (124)

Rows 2-21: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (124)

Row 22: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (124)

Helpful tip: The SCs in Rows 22 & 23 help us to create a nice straight line where color blocks come together. If we didn’t add it, the color changes would have a more jagged edge.

Switch to a new color; fasten off previous color, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Row 23: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (124)

Rows 24-43: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (124)

Row 44: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (124)

Switch to a new color; fasten off previous color, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Row 45: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (124)

Rows 46-59: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (124)

Row 60: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (124)

Row 61: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (124)

Rows 62-67: CH1, turn. FPDC in first ST, BPDC in next ST. (FPDC in next ST, BPDC in next ST) across.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Leaving your 3 long tails alone (there should be one of each color), weave in all other tails to get them out of the way.

Seaming
Lay your cowl flat, then bring the sides together and match up the color blocks. Use a yarn needle to sew each color block closed with its matching yarn tail. Weave in all ends.

January 25, 2016
Comfy Squares Textured Boot Cuffs

One thing I’ve learned about my fans is that you love patterns that come in sets. I released the Comfy Squares Textured Cowl last month and several of you asked for the boot cuff pattern that I’d mentioned in the blog post that I was planning to make. I finally got around to writing it down!

Click here for the original cowl pattern, or scroll down for the boot cuff pattern.

Prefer a PDF?

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COMFY SQUARES TEXTURED BOOT CUFFS

Size:  Small (12″ around and 5″ tall); instructions for adjusting for different sizes are included.
Gauge:  With G hook, 10SC = 2” in length
Hook: G (4.25mm)
Yarn: 150-160 yards of #3 light weight yarn (such as Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn Sport)
You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) It is crocheted as a flat piece, then seamed at the end.
(3) CH1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.
(4) The phrase “(SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 7 times” means 7 times total.
(5) Only crochet in BLO (back loops only) when specifically instructed.

Instructions for different sizes:
Making these larger (or smaller) is simple — instead of repeating rows 2-3 until piece measures 12″ in length as instructed, simply repeat until the cuffs are the length you need. You can also add to the height of the cuffs by increasing your starting chain (keep it an odd number), and including those added stitches in the (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) section.

PATTERN (MAKE 2)

To begin:
CH25.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 7 times. SC in each of the last 4 STS. (24)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 7 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in last ST. (24)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 7 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in last ST. (24)

Rows 4-53 (or until piece measures 12″ in length): Repeat rows 2-3. (24)

Fasten off, leaving a 12″ tail. Use your yarn needle and finishing tail to seam both ends of the cuff together. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

January 8, 2016
Comfy Squares Textured Blanket

When I find a stitch I love, I get really fixated on it. I make a bunch of different patterns with it until I finally get bored and move on to another stitch.

My fixation right now?

The SC+HDC combo!

The first pattern I made with this stitch was the Comfy Squares Textured Cowl. It was a bit of an accident how it all came together, and interestingly enough, that cowl has become my go-to cowl this winter. I love the way it drapes, and I just love the look of the stitches.

Our family draws names for Christmas, and this year, I drew my Grandma. I was so excited! I knew right away that I wanted to make her something special. So I decided this would be the perfect opportunity to try out this stitch in blanket form.

I am thrilled with how it turned out!

Let’s talk colors. I need to give a shoutout to my friend Krista at Rescued Paw Designs — I’ve admired her great sense of color schemes since I first discovered her blog. The colors I chose for my blanket were inspired by some of her blanket patterns.

I used a collection of Vanna’s Choice (which has some of the most gorgeous neutral colors available in the big craft stores): Purple, Linen, Taupe, and Gray Marble. The great thing about Vanna’s Choice is that their entire line coordinates. So you can pretty much go in and choose any colors you want, and you’re almost guaranteed to come out with a beautiful color scheme.

My advice? Choose three neutrals and one accent color. Make sure at least one of your choices is a heather yarn (meaning it has little flecks of other colors in it) to give your blanket a rustic modern look. (Love me some rustic modern!)

I took the advice of my Little Monkeys followers and softened the finished blanket up by running it through the dryer with a dryer sheet. I was surprised at how soft it came out, and it didn’t mess with the blanket at all. (I’m paranoid about stuff like that.)

Here it is, all ready for Christmas! (Find my free printable “handmade with special care” gift tags here.)

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

COMFY SQUARES TEXTURED BLANKET

Level: Easy

Size: Blanket measures 30″x40″ (stroller blanket or small lap blanket size). Pattern is easily adjustable for both length and width.

Hook: K (6.50mm)

Yarn: About 180 yards of #4 worsted/aran weight yarn per color block. I used Vanna’s Choice (by Lion Brand) in color blocks of Purple (x2), Linen, Taupe and Gray Marble. Please see Notes section for a helpful note about yarn amounts.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Gauge:
Not crucial, but a row of 10SC = about 3″ in length.

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(3) A note about yarn amounts: I used yarn in my stash to complete most of this project, so I wasn’t concerned about trying to use full skeins… which resulted in a pattern that, if done as written, uses about 30 yards of a second skein per color block. If that drives you absolutely nuts, you might want to make your blanket smaller or larger to avoid having a lot of leftover yarn. 🙂
(4) To adjust the width of your blanket, add or subtract from your starting CH (just begin with an odd number of CHs). To adjust the length of your blanket, add or subtract an even number of rows to/from each color block.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
With first color, CH101.

Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 CH remains. SC in remaining CH. (100)

Rows 2-22: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (100)

Row 23: CH1, turn. SC in first ST and in each ST across. (100)

Helpful tip: The SCs in Rows 23 & 24 help us to create a nice straight line where color blocks come together. If we didn’t add it, the color changes would have a more jagged edge.

Switch to a new color; fasten off previous color.

Row 24: CH1, turn. SC in first ST and in each ST across. (100)

Rows 25-46: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (100)

Row 47: CH1, turn. SC in first ST and in each ST across. (100)

For each remaining color block: Switch to a new color and fasten off the previous color, then repeat Rows 24-47.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

January 4, 2016
Macchiato Cowl

© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

I have received so many requests for a scarf or cowl pattern to match the Macchiato Slouch Hat. I didn’t bother with it because the reality of that hat is that it’s actually incredibly simple (just rounds of HDCs), and it was the Scarfie yarn that made it so unique-looking. So a matching cowl would be, simply, rounds of HDC.

I’ve realized though, after being asked for a matching pattern so many times, that not everyone can make something without a pattern to follow.

And that’s ok!

I think improvising simply comes naturally to some people and not to others. So, I went ahead and whipped up the easiest-ever cowl to match. I wrote out the pattern, which is at the bottom of this post!

About the Yarn

Each skein of Scarfie has very gradual color changes between two colors. I immediately gravitated to the Cream/Taupe, because, well, I’m a sucker for a good taupe color. Each skein has 312 yards of bulky weight yarn, so you’ve got plenty to make a beautiful, ombre-style accessory.

Click the photo to view Lion Brand Scarfie yarn on Craftsy!

The Matching Slouch Hat

Click here to view the Macchiato Slouch Hat pattern.

–

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THE MACCHIATO COWL

Level: Easy

Size:
Cowl measures 30″ around and is 12″ tall.

Hook: N (9.00mm)
Yarn: About 250 yards of #5 chunky weight yarn; I used Lion Brand Scarfie Yarn in Cream/Taupe.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Gauge:
A row of 5HDC = about 2” long

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
CH (chain)
HDC (double crochet)
FHDC (foundation half double crochet — optional, but recommended. View tutorial here.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round. Only join or chain when instructed to do so. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the first ST of each round.
(3) Finding knots in your yarn is just an annoying and unavoidable reality of crocheting, and with a gradual-change yarn like this one, it’s especially aggravating when the knot joins yarn from two completely different parts of the color change pattern. This happened to me while making this cowl, and all I did to fix the situation was cut the yarn just before the knot, then pull the yarn from the skein until I got back to the point in the pattern where I had left off, and joined the new yarn there.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Round 1:
FHDC 72. Join ends together with a SL ST into the first FHDC, being careful not to twist the round. (72)

Optional start:
CH73. HDC in 2^nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first HDC, being careful not to twist the round. (72)

Round 2: DO NOT CHAIN. HDC in first ST and in each ST around. DO NOT JOIN.

Rounds 3-26 (or until cowl measures about 12” tall): HDC in each ST around.

SL ST into the next 3 STS to smooth down the round. Fasten off; weave in all ends. If you used the Foundation HDC method, use your starting tail to sew together the gap between your first and last FHDC, then weave in to finish.

December 27, 2015
Rustic Slouch
© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

I recently had a chance to sample some Lion’s Pride Woolspun (by Lion Brand Yarn), and boy, was I impressed!

This #5 bulky weight yarn is awesome. Sold exclusively at Michael’s stores, it’s a sturdy yarn that doesn’t split and shows stitch definition very clearly. I had been looking around for a nice bulky yarn that I could use to make a chunky version of the popular Yenni Slouch, and when I saw this yarn, I knew it would be perfect.

Just look at that stitch definition!

I went a little crazy and designed a matching scarf. It’s big, it’s chunky, and it’s adorable.

Isn’t my model adorable, too? She rocked this photo shoot.

So grab your bigger hooks and join me for a quick, trendy project that will keep your head warm all winter long!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

RUSTIC SLOUCH

Level: Easy

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 10.5” across at band, and is 10” tall.

Materials:
- N hook (9.00mm) and I hook (5.50mm)
- Yarn needle
- Lion’s Pride Woolspun (from Lion Brand), 190-200 yards. The color in the photos is Taupe.
  *About Lion’s Pride Woolspun:
  Weight: #5 Bulky
  Fiber: 80% acrylic, 20% wool
  Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 127 yd (116 m)
- Button embellishment (mine is 1″)
Gauge: With N hook, a row of 7HDC = 3″ in length.

Abbreviations Used:
CH (chain)
SK (skip)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect. View a tutorial here.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) The button is just a decorative embellishment (non-functional).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using N Hook, and leaving an 18″ tail, CH21.

Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (20)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (20)

Row 3: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (20)

Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 18 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (20)

Row 5: CH1, turn. Working in 3rd loops, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (20)

Rows 6-44: Repeat Rows 2-5, in order, until you have 44 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4).

Switch to I hook.

Row 45: CH1, DO NOT turn. Begin to SC down the LONG edge of the project, putting 5SC in each section between ribbing rows (see photo below for a visual). You should end up with 55SC. Then, CH8 to create the base of your button flap.

Row 46: Turn your work. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Continue to SC across. (62)

Rows 47-50: CH1, turn. SC across. (62)

Row 51 (edging): CH1, turn. SC across (62). Putting (SC, CH1, SC) in both corners, continue to SC around the edge of the button flap. Stop when you get here:

Sewing the hat together
Fasten off your yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a yarn needle, sew the ends of the hat together. Utilize the 3rd loop of the edge with the HDCs in order to blend the seam in so it is hardly noticeable. (A note: several of you have mentioned that it looks as though I’m seaming with a bit of an overlap according to the photo below. The photo is an unintentional optical illusion; I actually did seam the edges together with no overlap, and the “overlap” you’re seeing is actually the opposite side of the hat. So sorry for the confusion!)

Once you get to the top of the hat, make a knot and weave in the end.

Cinching the top
Turn your hat inside out. Use your starting tail to cinch the top of the hat by threading it through a yarn needle and weaving the needle in and out along the top edge of the hat at even intervals. Once you’ve gone all the way around, pull the tail tight and insert your yarn needle across the cinched area a few times to really keep it closed, then make a knot and weave in the end. Turn your hat right-side out again.

Finishing the Button Flap
We still need to sew our button flap in place and attach our button. Using a needle and appropriately-colored thread, position the button flap in place and sew along its 3 edges to secure it. Use your needle and thread to attach your button as well.
December 10, 2015
Rustic Fringe Infinity Scarf
© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

I recently had a chance to sample some Lion’s Pride Woolspun (by Lion Brand Yarn), and boy, was I impressed!

This #5 bulky weight yarn is pretty awesome. Sold exclusively at Michael’s stores, it’s a sturdy yarn that doesn’t split and shows stitch definition very clearly.

I’ve been experimenting with combining some of my favorite stitches and textures, and I’m absolutely thrilled with how this pattern came out!

It’s a double-wrapping scarf, but I think it looks beautiful hanging long, too.

The fringe is optional, but why would you not want it?

And do you want to know the best thing about this pattern?

It has a matching slouch hat!

Brand New Video Tutorial Available!

If the video below doesn’t work for you, please click here.

Video Breakdown:
3:10 – Beginning of Pattern
25:30 – Fringe
31:27 – Buttons
32:08 – Seaming
36:10 – Stitch Appendix

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

THE RUSTIC INFINITY FRINGE SCARF

Level: Easy

Size:
Scarf measures 64″ around, and is 7″ wide (not including fringe). These measurements are easily adjustable.

Materials:
- N hook (9.00mm)
- Yarn needle
- Lion’s Pride Woolspun (from Lion Brand), about 400 yards. The color in the photos is Taupe.
  *About Lion’s Pride Woolspun:
  Weight: #5 Bulky
  Fiber: 80% acrylic, 20% wool
  Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 127 yd (116 m)
- 4 button embellishments (mine are 1″), plus tools to attach buttons (needle, thread)
Gauge: With N hook, a row of 7HDC = 3″ in length.

Abbreviations Used:
CH (chain)
SK (skip)
SS (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect. Click here for tutorial.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) The buttons are just a decorative embellishment (non-functional).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using N Hook, and leaving a 12″ tail, CH151.

Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (150)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (150)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (150)

Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 148 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (150)

Row 5: CH1, turn. Working in 3rd loops, SK 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (150)

Rows 6-16: Repeat Rows 2-5, in order, until you have 16 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4). (150)

Edging
We are going to put an edging on only one end of the scarf (it isn’t necessary anywhere else). So, with your hook in the same place you left off on Row 16, CH 1. SC into the same ST again to turn the corner to the short end of the scarf. SC evenly along the edge, putting 4SC in between each ribbing row. When you get to the end of the short edge, finish it off with a CH1 and a SL ST into the same ST as your last SC. Fasten off and weave in your ends.

Fringe
We need to cut approximately 75 pieces of yarn for the fringe. Find a sturdy, thin object in your home that measures somewhere between 8-10″. I used my 9″ cutting board and it worked perfectly! Here’s how you make fringe (the numbers correspond to the photos below):

1. Wrap the yarn around the cutting board about 40 times (this will give us a little wiggle room). Wrap it snug, but don’t wrap it crazy-tight. Try to be consistent.
2. Take a good pair of scissors and carefully cut the yarn right down the center of the pile.
3. You now have a pile of yarn approximately 18″ long. Very carefully, fold it in half and cut at the halfway point again. You should now have about 80 strands of yarn.
4. Start at one end of the scarf, on the side where you began the pattern (the CH151 side). Using a crochet hook and one strand of yarn, find the first stitch. Fold the yarn in half and use the hook to pull it halfway through the space created by that first stitch. The two ends of the strand should be poking out the front of the entry point.
5. Remove your hook and insert the two ends of the strand through the loop.
6. Pull tight.
7. Continue down the scarf, adding fringe to every other stitch. This will be easy to spot, because when you did your SC+DCs, they created little spaces. Use the photo for a visual.

Button Embellishments
Use your needle and thread to attach the 4 buttons to the front of the short end of the scarf (the one that has the edging!).

Seaming
To make this an infinity scarf, we’re going to attach the ends together. Instead of doing a normal seam (where the first row is joined to the last row), we are going to overlap the edge with the buttons over the other end by about 1-2″. This will give the illusion that the buttons are holding it closed. You can use a needle and thread to sew along the edge. (I sewed the bottom layer to the underside of the top layer so that it didn’t disrupt the look of the top piece, because I’m not very good at sewing.) You could also use a sturdy fabric glue, but be sure it’s machine-washable!

That’s it, folks! I was pleasantly surprised at how stunning these stitches looked incorporated into a chunky scarf, and I hope you love it as much as I do!
December 10, 2015
Yenni Fringe Scarf
© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

When I released the patterns for the Yenni Slouch and Boot Cuffs, they were a huge hit.

I knew I wasn’t done with this stitch pattern yet, and that was reaffirmed to me when I was asked by several of you for a matching scarf pattern!

I’ve been really into fringe lately, and this is my first pattern that includes it.

I’ve been wearing this scarf everywhere. It has great drape and detailing, but the light #3 yarn makes it easy to tuck into a winter coat.

(If #3 yarn scares you like it did me when I was a crochet newbie, you can pretty easily make this scarf with #4 worsted and an appropriately sized hook, too. But I strongly encourage you to give #3 yarn a try. You might fall in love like I did!)

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

YENNI INFINITY FRINGE SCARF

Level: Easy

Size:
Scarf measures 54″ long before seaming, and 6″ wide (not including fringe)

Materials:
- H hook (5.00mm) and G hook (4.25mm)
- Yarn needle
- #3 (light) yarn, about 410-420 yards. I used 2 skeins of Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn (Sport) in “Graybeard”.
Gauge: With H hook, 4HDC = 1″

Stitches Used:
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using H Hook, and leaving a 12″ tail, CH23.

Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (22)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (22)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (22)

Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 20 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (22)

Row 5: CH1, turn. Working in 3rd loops, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (22)

Rows 6-152: Repeat Rows 2-5 in order until you have 152 total rows (or until your scarf measures approximately 54″ long), being sure to end on a repeat of Row 4. (This will help the seam look the most natural.) Fasten off your yarn and weave in the end.

Seaming
Bring the two ends of the scarf together, being careful to not twist it. Use your starting tail to whip stitch them together, utilizing the 3rd loop of the final row in order to hide the seam. Weave in the remainder of the tail securely.

Switch to G hook.

Top Band, Round 1: With G hook, reattach your yarn at the seam; CH1. SC evenly around the scarf, putting 5SC between each ribbed row, as shown below. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST.

Top Band, Rounds 2-8: CH1, turn. SC around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Fringe
We need to cut approximately 80 pieces of yarn for the fringe. Find a sturdy, thin object in your home that measures somewhere between 8-10″. I used my 9″ cutting board and it worked perfectly! Here’s how you make fringe (the numbers correspond to the photos below):

1. Wrap the yarn around the cutting board about 45 times (this will give us a little wiggle room). Wrap it snug, but don’t wrap it crazy-tight. Try to be consistent.
2. Take a good pair of scissors and carefully cut the yarn right down the center of the pile.
3. You now have a pile of yarn approximately 18″ long. Very carefully, fold it in half and cut at the halfway point again. You should now have about 90 strands of yarn.
4. Choose a starting point at the bottom of one of the ribbed rows. Using a crochet hook and one strand of yarn, fold the yarn in half and use the hook to pull it halfway through the scarf (right at the bottom). The two ends of the strand should be poking out the front of the entry point.
5. Remove your hook and insert the two ends of the strand through the loop.
6. Pull tight.
7. Continue around the scarf, adding fringe at every two rows (so you’ll add fringe at every ribbed row, as well as halfway between each ribbed row). Use the photo for a visual.

That’s it! Enjoy your cute new infinity scarf, and don’t forget to make the matching hat and boot cuffs!
December 5, 2015
Super Plush Faux-Knit Infinity Scarf

© Model Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

So there is this gorgeous classic knit scarf style that I’ve been seeing everywhere (like here), and I haven’t been able to get it out of my mind. Mostly because when I first saw it and fell in love with it, I knew I could recreate it as a crochet scarf.

It just looked so plush and warm and comfy… which is why I knew that just as important as finding the right stitches, was choosing the right yarn. There was no doubt in my mind that Cascade Yarns had what I needed!

After using Cascade’s Longwood Sport (a #3 light yarn) to create the Yenni Slouch Hat pattern, I always knew I’d use that yarn again. For this scarf, I opted instead for the #4 yarn in the same product line. When the Longwood 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool showed up on my doorstep, I was soooo happy with my decision. This yarn is so plush. Every so often I wanted to put my hook down and just bury my face in it. It’s like crocheting with bunnies. Honestly. Baby bunnies.

The best part? Even using a somewhat pricier yarn, I still spent half of what I would’ve spent buying this scarf. What do you think… can you tell the difference?

I really think you’re going to love this pattern! If you choose the right yarn, it’ll look and feel like luxury. All your friends will want to know where you bought it!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

SUPER PLUSH FAUX-KNIT INFINITY SCARF

Level: Easy
Size:  58” around, 7” wide
Gauge:  With H hook, 4HDC = 1”
Hook: H (5.0mm) – please see notes section
You’ll also need: Yarn needle
Yarn: Longwood 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool (by Cascade Yarns)*, 550-560 yards. The color in the photos is Cream.

*About Longwood 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool: 
Weight: #4 worsted
Fiber: 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool
Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 191 yds (175 m)
Gauge: 18 sts = 4″ (10 cm), US 7-8 (4.5-5 mm)

Abbreviations Used:
CH (chain)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
HDC (half double crochet)
FHDC (foundation half double crochet — optional, but recommended. View tutorial at http://goo.gl/OiU7Mb)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – The bulk of this pattern is completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect. View tutorial here.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) Be sure to choose a soft, breathable worsted weight yarn with good drape for this pattern. If you choose a heavier yarn, such as Aran, you’ll need to adjust your hook size so it doesn’t become stiff.
(3) You can make the scarf shorter or longer simply by changing the number of stitches in your starting row. There is no formula needed.
(4) CH1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Round 1: FHDC* 220, or until your foundation chain is about 54″ long (it will stretch). Join to the top of the first FHDC with a SL ST, being careful that you don’t twist the round.

*Alternate start, if you aren’t comfortable with the Foundation method: CH221. HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH (220 HDC). Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST.

Round 2: CH1, turn. In 3rd loops, HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (220)

Rounds 3-27 (or until scarf is the width you prefer: Repeat Round 2.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Pretty simple, right? Enjoy!

December 3, 2015