Category: Crochet Patterns

  • Comfy Squares Textured Cowl

    Comfy Squares Textured Cowl

    I came up with this pattern totally out of curiosity. I’ve done so much with the “SC+DC in next, SK next” combo (like here, here and here), and one night I was sitting on the couch with a partial skein of Hobby Lobby’s “I Love This Yarn – Sport” and a G hook, trying to make up some boot cuffs with the same stitch and an added ribbed band, but it just wasn’t working. The double crochet stitch was making the rows too tall for the single crochet banding, and the fabric was getting warped instead of laying flat.

    So, wondering what it would look like if I exchanged the SC+DC for SC+HDC, I frogged what I had and gave it a try.

    I loved the result!

    I love those stitches that look like one thing while you’re making them, and then quite a few rows in when you look at everything together, they look different. Case in point: the SC+HDC combo looked pretty similar to the SC+DC combo as I was making it, but after I had a few inches of fabric done, I noticed that as a whole, it looked like a nice, neat pattern of little textured squares. I thought it was really beautiful against the contrast of the ribbed band, too. So, I went with it — and created a brand new cowl pattern!

    Comfy Squares Textured Cowl Crochet Pattern | Free Cowl Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    This cowl could be pretty easily created with worsted weight yarn as well — you would just want to adjust your stitch counts to match the cowl’s intended measurements (listed in the pattern). But I just love the look and feel of the #3 lightweight yarn. It has this beautiful drape that makes wearing it totally effortless. Anything that is “throw it on and go” is a winner in my book.

    Comfy Squares Textured Cowl Crochet Pattern | Free Cowl Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    COMFY SQUARES TEXTURED COWL

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    Size:
 Cowl measures 30″ around and is 12″ tall.
    Gauge:
 With H hook, 5SC = 1” in length
    Hook: H (5.0mm)
    Yarn: 420-430 yards of #3 (light) yarn (such as Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn Sport)
    You’ll also need: Yarn needle

    Abbreviations Used:
    CH (chain)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
    BLO (back loop only)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
    (2) It is crocheted as a flat piece, then seamed at the end.
    (3) CH1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.
    (4) The phrase “(SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 21 times” means 21 times total.
    (5) Only crochet in BLO (back loops only) when specifically instructed. So for instance, here is Row 2, with only the BLO stitches in purple:

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 21 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in last ST. (54)

    (The reason we don’t put the very first and last STS of the row in BLO is because it helps keep the edge nice and neat-looking.)

    PATTERN

    To begin:
    CH55.

    Row 1:  SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in each of the next 7 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 21 times. SC in each of the last 4 STS. (54)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 21 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in last ST. (54)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 21 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in last ST. (54)

    Rows 4-113 (or until piece measures 30″ in length): Repeat rows 2-3. (54)

    Fasten off, leaving a 36″ tail. Use your yarn needle and finishing tail to seam both ends of the cowl together. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

  • Snow Capped Slouch Hat

    Snow Capped Slouch Hat

    © Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

    Special thanks to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

    I have another new slouch pattern for you! This one is simple, but it has a eye-catching spiral design that adds a lot of visual interest.

    The Yarn

    I’ve been a fan of Lion Brand’s Heartland Yarn for a while. It’s a lighter worsted weight acrylic yarn that comes in a range of beautiful, natural colors, all of which have just the right amount of sheen. My stores don’t carry the full range of colors, so I was very excited when Lion Brand sent me some shades that I’d never seen before. For this hat, I used a color called “Katmai.” Click here to view all the colors available. It was the combination of the color of the yarn and the design of the hat that made me think of snow capped mountains, so that’s how I got the name for the pattern!

    yarnpic

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    The Snowcapped Slouch Hat
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    Size:
    One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
    Hat measures about 9.5” across at band, and 9.5” tall.

    Materials:

    • Hook sizes K (6.5mm), H(5.0mm)
    • Yarn needle
    • 150-160 yards of worsted weight yarn (I used Lion Brand Heartland in “Katmai”)
    • Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)

    Gauge:
    With H hook, 6 HDC x 4 rows = 1.5” square

    Abbreviations Used:
    ST (stitch)
    MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SS (slip stitch)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    SC2TOG (single crochet 2 together)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) This hat is worked in a continuous spiral. Do not join at the end of each round and do not chain at the beginning of rounds unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the last stitch of each round.
    (3) The CH2s that create the holes in the hat still count as stitches. Keep this in mind when checking your stitch count, and when you reach Round 24 where it tells you to SC in the next 6 stitches (the CH2 counts as the first 2 of the 6).

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Using K Hook, begin with magic circle.

    Round 1:  10 HDC in magic circle (10)

    Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around (20)

    Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around (40)

    Round 4: (2 HDC in next ST, 1 HDC in next ST) around (60)

    Round 5: (2 HDC in next ST, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 STS) around (80)

    Switch to H hook.

    Round 6: (CH2, SK 2 STS, HDC in each of the next 8 STS) around. (80)

    Rounds 7-23: Repeat Round 6.

    Round 24: (SC in each of the next 6 STS; SC2TOG) around. (72)

    Rounds 25-33: SC around.

    Slip Stitch into the next 3 STS to smooth down the round, then fasten off and weave in ends.

  • Snowdrift Slouch Hat

    Snowdrift Slouch Hat

    © Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

    Winter is coming! Even though I can still see bright red leaves on the tree in my front yard, I just know (especially living in Michigan) that any day now, I could wake up to a few inches of snow and single-digit temperatures. Snowdrifts are a common occurrence in my part of the country, and this hat reminds me of them.

    Snowdrift Slouch Crochet Hat | Free Slouchy Hat Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    This is a pretty simple slouchy hat pattern that’s worked in rows and cinched at the end. You might even learn a new stitch – the Double Crochet Cluster Stitch! (See pattern notes.)

    The Yarn

    I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in “White” for my sample. Vanna’s Choice is one of those yarns that I’ve been using since I first learned to crochet. Most craft stores stock it well, and the color choices are really nice. Click here to view the color options.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    THE SNOWDRIFT SLOUCH HAT

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    Level: Easy

    Size:
    One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
    Hat measures 10” across at band, and is 9.5” tall.

    Materials:

    • I hook (5.50mm)
    • About 200 yards (<2 skeins) of Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice* (Sample color: White)
      *About Vanna’s Choice:
       Fiber Content: 100% Premium Acrylic
      Weight/Yardage: 100 g / 170 yds
      Crochet Gauge: 12 sc + 15 rows = 4″ (10 cm) on size J-10 (6 mm) hook
    • Yarn Needle

    Gauge:
    With I hook, 7 HDC = 2″ square

    Abbreviations Used:
    CH (chain)
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    SC (single crochet)
    2DCCL (2 Double Crochet Cluster Stitch – see Special Stitch, below)
    SC+2DCCL (this just means to put 1 SC and 1 2DCCL in the same stitch)

    Special Stitch
    2DCCL – 
    2 Double Crochet Cluster Stitch. To complete:
    (YO, insert hook, draw up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops) twice; YO, pull through remaining 3 loops.

    Notes:
    (1) This hat is worked in rows and cinched at the end.
    (2) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
    (3) Starting chains do not count as stitches.
    (4) The band of the hat is worked in seamless rounds. Do not join or turn at the end of rounds. Use a stitch marker if needed.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    To begin:
    Using I Hook, and leaving a 12″ tail, CH23. Don’t weave in the tail until instructed (we’ll use it later to cinch the hat).

    Row 1:  In 3rd CH from hook, SC+2DCCL. (SK next ST, SC+2DCCL in next ST) across. (22)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+2DCCL in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+2DCCL in next ST) across. (22)

    Rows 3-48: Repeat Row 2.

    Next we’re going to seam the hat. Fasten off, leaving a 12″ tail. Lay the piece out flat, then fold the short sides in toward each other. Use the tail and a yarn needle to whip stitch the two short ends together, as shown.

    snowdriftslouch-seaming

    Fasten off the tail you just used, and weave in its end.

    Next, we’re going to cinch the top of the hat. Turn it inside out (whichever side has the most obvious seam should be exposed). Thread your starting tail through your yarn needle and weave it in and out around the very top of the hat. (The smaller your weave, the nicer finish the top of the hat will have.)

    snowdriftslouch-cinching

    After cinching, it should look like this:

    snowdriftslouch-aftercinching

    Pull the tail tight to draw the cinch closed, tie a couple of knots, and fasten off and weave in the end.

    Band of the Hat

    Now, we’re going to add a nice thick band to our slouch hat. Turn your hat right-side out and reattach your yarn at the base of the hat, at the seam. We’re doing this with the seamless method, which means we aren’t joining at the end of rounds. If you need to, you can use a stitch marker or bobby pin to mark the last SC of each round so you don’t get lost.

    Round 1: CH1. SC evenly around, 3SC per ridge*. (Approx. 72, give or take a couple)
    *We’re going to SC evenly around the hat, so let’s take a look at what we have to work with. The ridges on the hat will be how we keep track of our stitches. We want to put 3SC in each ridge. I chose to put the first SC in the “valley”, and the next 2 SC evenly spaced on the “hilltop”. Take a look at this photo for guidance on where your SCs should go:

    snowdriftslouch-band

    Rounds 2-8: SC evenly around.

    To finish, SL ST into the next 3 SCs to smooth out the round. Fasten off and weave in ends.

  • Maribel Slouch

    Maribel Slouch

    © Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

    Thank you to Lion Brand for providing the yarn for this pattern sample.

    Last winter, I released a pattern set – the Maribel Cowl and Boot Cuffs. They are still some of my favorite patterns from that season!

    So this year, I decided to do what I always meant to do, but never got around to… designing a matching hat.

    Maribel Slouch Crochet Hat | Free Slouchy Hat Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    This slouch is worked differently from my other slouch hats, in that it’s worked flat and then cinched (as opposed to being worked in the round). This enables us to get vertical stitch work that you can’t get when you work a hat in the round. Cinching it up at the end is easy, and I’ve provided photos for you in the pattern.

    The Yarn

    I used Lion Brand Heartland in “Grand Canyon” for my sample. Heartland is one of my go-to worsted weight yarns. It has a beautiful sheen to it, it’s lightweight, and the color choices are gorgeous. You might recognize it in some of my other patterns, like the Sandy Slouch & Cowl Set.

    yarnpic
    Click the photo to view this yarn on Craftsy.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    THE MARIBEL SLOUCH HAT
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    Level: Easy

    Size:
    One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
    Hat measures 9.5” across at band (when laid flat), and is 9.5” tall.

    Materials:

    • I hook (5.50mm)
    • Yarn needle
    • About 210 yards of Lion Brand Heartland* (Sample color: Grand Canyon)
      *About Heartland:
        Weight: #4 worsted
                    Fiber: 100% Acrylic
      Yardage: 5oz/142g (251yd/230m)
      Gauge: 12 sc + 15 rows = 4 inches on size J-10 [6 mm] hook
    • 7 small buttons (I used 1/2″)

    Gauge:
    With I hook, 10 rows of 7 SC = 2″ square

    Stitches Used:
    CH (chain)
    SS (slip stitch)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    RibHDC (also known as Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC; see Special Stitch, below)

    Special Stitch:
    RibHDC – instead of putting your HDC in the top loops, find the 3rd loop. Because we’re working in turned rows, the third loop will be located just underneath the front loop. Insert your hook there and create your HDC. This forces both of the top loops to rest on the front of your project, creating a ribbing effect. It is also referred to as a Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC. (Confused? You can view a photo tutorial here.)

    Notes:
    (1) This hat is worked in rows and cinched at the end.
    (2) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
    (3) Starting chains do not count as stitches.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    To begin:
    Using I Hook, and leaving a 12″ tail, CH27. Don’t weave in the tail until instructed (we’ll use it later to cinch the hat).

    Row 1:  SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each ST across. (26)

    Rows 2-6: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (26)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (26)

    Rows 8-64: CH1, turn. RibHDC in each ST across. (26)

    We are now going to begin working along the long edge of our project to create the band of the hat.

    Row 65: CH1. Working along the long edge, SC across. Put 1SC in each row, for a total of 64SC. (64)

    Rows 66-76: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across.

    Edging: CH1, turn. SC evenly around the entire project, putting (SC, CH1, SC) in each corner. Fasten off, leaving a 12″ tail.

    At this point, your project should look like this:

    maribelslouch-flatpiece

    Seaming the Hat

    Use your finishing tail to whip stitch the two short ends together, then fasten off and weave it in.

    maribelslouch-seaming

    Cinching the Hat

    Turn your hat inside out. Thread your starting tail through the yarn needle and weave it in and out of every other SC along the top edging of the hat. (I’ve highlighted my yarn needle in yellow in the photos below.) When you’re done, pull it tight to cinch the hat (but carefully… you don’t want to break the yarn!). Use the yarn needle to reach across the cinch a few times to make sure it’s closed up nice and tight, then make a knot and weave in the tail. Turn your hat right side out.

    maribelslouch-cinching

    Sew your buttons along that very first section of SC rows, extending them down across the band of the hat, too.

    maribelslouch-buttons

  • Half-‘n-Half Slouch Hat

    Half-‘n-Half Slouch Hat

    © Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

    Thank you to Lion Brand for providing the yarn for this pattern sample.

    Today’s pattern is extra special, because I partnered with a fellow crochet blogger to bring you a set!

    Krista of Rescued Paw Designs has designed matching boot cuffs for the Half & Half Slouch, and I love them. Both patterns are simple and trendy, and they’ll be great together for those chilly days. My pattern is at the bottom of this post, as always. Click here to view the Half & Half Boot Cuffs pattern on Krista’s blog, and don’t forget to go Like her on Facebook!

    Half & Half Slouch Crochet Hat | Free Slouchy Hat Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    This hat utilizes the crochet-flat-then-cinch-together method. To change it up, I crocheted half of it in one stitch pattern and half of it in another. It’s a fun hat with a nice fit and just the right amount of slouch.

    The Yarn

    I used Lion Brand Heartland in “Mammoth Cave” for my sample. Heartland is one of my go-to worsted weight yarns. It has a beautiful sheen to it, it’s lightweight, and the color choices are gorgeous. You might recognize it in some of my other patterns, like the Sandy Slouch & Cowl Set.

    yarnpic
    Click the photo to view this yarn on Craftsy.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    THE HALF-‘N-HALF SLOUCH

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    Level: Easy

    Size:
    One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
    Hat measures 10” across at band, and is 9.5” tall.

    Materials:

    • I hook (5.50mm)
    • About 190 yards of Lion Brand Heartland* (Sample color: Mammoth Cave)
      *About Heartland:
        Weight: #4 worsted
                    Fiber: 100% Acrylic
      Yardage: 5oz/142g (251yd/230m)
      Gauge: 12 sc + 15 rows = 4 inches on size J-10 [6 mm] hook
    • Yarn Needle

    Gauge:
    With I hook, 7 HDC = 2″ square

    Abbreviations Used:
    CH (chain)
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    SC+DC (this just means to put 1SC and 1DC in the same stitch)

    Notes:
    (1) This hat is worked in rows and cinched at the end.
    (2) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
    (3) Starting chains do not count as stitches.
    (4) As you work, you might begin to notice that your piece isn’t a perfect rectangle, and the bottom half lays at a slight angle – this is ok.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    To begin:
    Using I Hook, and leaving a 12″ tail, CH35. Don’t weave in the tail until instructed (we’ll use it later to cinch the hat).

    Row 1:  In 3rd CH from hook, SC+DC. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) 9 times. HDC in each of the next 14 STS. (34)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 14 STS. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) 10 times. (34)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) 9 times. HDC in each of the next 14 STS. (34)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 14 STS. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) 10 times. (34)

    Rows 5-62: Repeat Rows 3 & 4 until you have 62 rows. (34)

    Row 63: Repeat Row 3.  (34)

    We are now going to work along the long edge of our project to put a nice edging on the band of the hat.

    Row 64: CH1, do not turn. Working along the long edge, SC across, putting 1SC in each row, for a total of 63SC. When you’re done, your starting and ending tails should be in the same corner. (63)

    Lay your project flat, with the starting and ending tails at the bottom left corner. At this point, your project should look like this:

    Half & Half Slouch Crochet Hat  |  Free Slouchy Hat Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Fasten off your finishing tail and weave it in.

    Seaming the Hat

    Turn your hat inside out. Use a yarn needle and your starting tail, whip stitch the two short ends together (see photo below). Now, we’re going to keep using this tail to cinch the top of the hat too, and we don’t want the seam to pull when we pull the cinch tight — so tie a knot or two at the top of the hat.

    Cinching the Hat

    Keeping your hat inside out, weave your starting tail in and out along the top edge of the hat. When you’re done, pull it tight to cinch the hat (but carefully… you don’t want to break the yarn!). Use the yarn needle to reach across the cinch a few times to make sure it’s closed up nice and tight, then make a knot and weave in the tail. Turn your hat right side out.

    halfnhalf-seamingcinching

    Done!

    Half & Half Slouch Crochet Hat  |  Free Slouchy Hat Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

  • Yenni Boot Cuffs

    Yenni Boot Cuffs

    © Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

    Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

    When I completed the pattern for the Yenni Slouch (that’s pronounced like the English “Jenny”, by the way), I had a good amount of Cascade Yarns Longwood Sport left over. So naturally, I decided to make some matching boot cuffs. I am so glad I did… I think they’re the perfect compliment to the hat!

    Yenni Slouch Crochet Hat | Free Slouchy Hat Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    What I really love about these boot cuffs is that, thanks to the #3 weight yarn, they don’t feel as bulky as your standard worsted weight boot cuff patterns tend to. They slip under your boot almost like a super soft, thick sock.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    THE YENNI BOOT CUFFS

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    Level: Easy

    Size:
    Small (but easily adjustable) – cuffs measure about 5″ tall and 12″ around

    Materials:

    • G hook (4.25mm)
    • Cascade Yarns Longwood Sport*, 190-200 yards. The color in the photos is Doeskin Heather.
      *About Longwood Sport:
        Weight: #3 light
                    Fiber: 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool
      Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 273 yds (250 m)
      Gauge: 22-24 sts = 4″ (10 cm), US 5-6 (3.75-4.0mm)
    • Yarn needle
    • 2 buttons (1″ or smaller), plus tools to attach buttons to boot cuffs

    Gauge: With G hook, 9HDC = 2″

    Stitches Used:
    CH (chain)
    SS (slip stitch)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    DC (double crochet)
    SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)

    Special Terminology:
    3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
    (2) Because of the button flap embellishment and the fact that we want it to be on opposing sides of the cuffs (so that it is visible on the outer sides of the wearer’s legs), we have to construct the two cuffs a little differently. Please note that there are two patterns below, one for each cuff.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    CUFF #1

    To begin:
    CH19.

    Row 1:  SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 16 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (18)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. In 3rd loop, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

    Rows 6-44: Repeat Rows 2-5 in order until you have 44 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4). (18)

    Note: If you want to make larger boot cuffs, continue to repeat rows 2-5 until they are the width you desire. For best results, make sure you still end on a repeat of Row 4.

    Row 45: CH1, DO NOT turn. Begin to SC down the LONG edge of the project, putting 5SC in each section between ribbing rows (see photo below for a visual). You should end up with 55SC (unless you decided to make your boot cuffs larger – this is fine). Then, CH 7.

    yennislouch-5SCedging

    Row 46: Turn your work. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Continue to SC across. (61)

    Rows 47-50: CH1, turn. SC across. (61)

    Row 51 (edging): CH1, turn. SC across (61). Putting (SC, CH1, SC) in both corners, continue to SC around the edge of the button flap. Stop when you get here (please note that this photo is actually from the Yenni Slouch pattern, which is why the band looks so wide, but it’s the same concept):

    yennislouch-edging

    Sewing the boot cuff closed
    Fasten off your yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a yarn needle, sew the ends of the cuff together. Utilize the 3rd loop of the edge with the HDCs in order to blend the seam in so it is hardly noticeable (again, this photo is from the Yenni Slouch pattern, but same concept):

    yennislouch-seaming

    Once you get to the bottom of the cuff, make a knot, fasten off and weave in all ends.

    Optional Lower Edging: The bottom of the boot cuffs won’t show, but I like my projects to have a nice finished look, especially if I’m planning on selling them. If you want to give your boot cuffs a clean, finished look as well, go ahead and reattach your yarn, and add a row or two of SC around the bottom edge of the cuff, following the “5SC between each ribbing section” rule of thumb you used in Row 45. Fasten off and weave in your ends.

    Use a needle and thread to sew your button flap in place, then attach your button.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    CUFF #2

    Please note, Rows 1-44 are identical to Cuff #1.

    To begin:
    Leaving a 12″ starting tail (to use later), CH19.

    Row 1:  SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 16 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (18)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. In 3rd loop, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

    Rows 6-44: Repeat Rows 2-5 in order until you have 44 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4). (18)

    Note: If you increased the width of Cuff #1, make sure you do the same with Cuff #2.

    Row 45: Ch7. You are now going to begin working down the long side of your cuff. SC in 2nd CH from hook, and in each remaining CH. Then continue to SC down the long edge, putting 5SC in each section between ribbing rows (see photo from Cuff #1 for a visual).

    Rows 46-50: CH1, turn. SC across. (61)

    Row 51 (edging): Fasten off and weave in the end. Then, attach your yarn in the inner corner of the button flap, as shown below, and – working on the right side of the boot cuff (the side with the ribbing) – SC around the button flap and across the length of the cuff, putting (SC,CH1,SC) in each corner. When you reach the other end, fasten off.

    yennibootcuffs-edging

    Sewing the boot cuff closed
    Using a yarn needle and your starting tail, sew the ends of the cuff together. Utilize the 3rd loop of the edge with the HDCs in order to blend the seam in so it is hardly noticeable. (See photo from Cuff #1 for help.)

    Make a knot, fasten off and weave in all ends.

    Optional Lower Edging: The bottom of the boot cuffs won’t show, but I like my projects to have a nice finished look, especially if I’m planning on selling them. If you want to give your boot cuffs a clean, finished look as well, go ahead and reattach your yarn, and add a row or two of SC around the bottom edge of the cuff, following the “5SC between each ribbing section” rule of thumb you used in Row 45. Fasten off and weave in your ends.

    Use a needle and thread to sew your button flap in place, then attach your button.

  • Yenni Slouch Hat

    Yenni Slouch Hat

    © Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

    Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

    I recently discovered Cascade Yarn’s Longwood Sport when I used it to make the South Haven Slouch pattern last month. I really fell in love with it, and wanted to work with it again. As a newbie crocheter, I always avoided patterns with anything thinner than worsted weight yarn because I thought it would take forever to work up. But eventually, I branched out and discovered that I actually love the look of  items crocheted with thinner yarn. I encourage you to try it if you haven’t already!

    This slouchy hat, called the Yenni Slouch (that’s pronounced like the English “Jenny”, by the way) is named after my beautiful niece who is modeling it in the photo. It also has a pair of matching boot cuffs — which, conveniently, are basically just little versions of the hat!

    Yenni Slouch Crochet Hat | Free Slouchy Hat Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

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    YENNI SLOUCH

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    Level: Easy

    Size:
    One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
    Hat measures 10” across at band, and is 9” tall.

    Materials:

    • H hook (5.00mm) and G hook (4.25mm)
    • Yarn needle
    • Cascade Yarns Longwood Sport*, 250-270 yards. The color in the photos is Doeskin Heather.
      *About Longwood Sport:
        Weight: #3 light
                    Fiber: 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool
      Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 273 yds (250 m)
      Gauge: 22-24 sts = 4″ (10 cm), US 5-6 (3.75-4.0mm)
    • Button embellishment (mine is 1-1/8″)

    Gauge: With H hook, 4HDC = 1″

    Stitches Used:
    CH (chain)
    SS (slip stitch)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    DC (double crochet)
    SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)

    Special Terminology:
    3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    To begin:
    Using H Hook, and leaving a 12″ tail, CH29.

    Row 1:  SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (28)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (28)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (28)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 26 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (28)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. Working in 3rd loops, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (28)

    Rows 6-72: Repeat Rows 2-5 in order until you have 72 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4).

    Switch to G hook.

    Row 73: CH1, DO NOT turn. Begin to SC down the LONG edge of the project, putting 5SC in each section between ribbing rows (see photo below for a visual). You should end up with 90SC. Then, CH 11 to create the base of your button flap.

    yennislouch-5SCedging

    Row 74: Turn your work. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Continue to SC across. (100)

    Rows 75-84: CH1, turn. SC across. (100)

    Row 85 (edging): CH1, turn. SC across (100). Putting (SC, CH1, SC) in both corners, continue to SC around the edge of the button flap. Stop when you get here:

    yennislouch-edging

    Sewing the hat together
    Fasten off your yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a yarn needle, sew the ends of the hat together. Utilize the 3rd loop of the edge with the HDCs in order to blend the seam in so it is hardly noticeable:

    yennislouch-seaming

    Once you get to the top of the hat, make a knot and weave in the end.

    Cinching the top
    Turn your hat inside out. Use your starting tail to cinch the top of the hat by threading it through a yarn needle and weaving the needle in and out along the top edge of the hat at even intervals. Once you’ve gone all the way around, pull the tail tight and insert your yarn needle across the cinched area a few times to really keep it closed, then make a knot and weave in the end. Turn your hat right-side out again.yennislouch-cinching

    Finishing the Button Flap
    We still need to sew our button flap in place and attach our button. Using a needle and appropriately-colored thread, position the button flap in place and sew along its 3 edges to secure it. Use your needle and thread to attach your button as well.

    Yenni Slouch Crochet Hat  |  Free Slouchy Hat Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

  • Macchiato Slouch Hat

    Macchiato Slouch Hat

    © Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

    Thank you to Lion Brand for providing the yarn for this pattern sample!

    I’ve always had a picture in my head of a slouch hat that I wanted to create, that had a very slooooooooow, graaaaaadual color change. I looked into the possibility of dip-dying the finished hat, but it looked like more effort than it was worth. (Plus, I’m lazy.) Then, just recently, I found out about Lion Brand’s new yarn – Scarfie! As soon as I saw it, I knew it was The One. The perfect yarn for the hat I wanted to create.

    scarfieyarnpic
    Click the photo to view Lion Brand Scarfie yarn on Craftsy!

    About the Yarn

    Each skein of Scarfie has very gradual color changes between two colors. I immediately gravitated to the Cream/Taupe, because, well, I’m a sucker for a good taupe color. Each skein has 312 yards of bulky weight yarn, so you’ve got plenty to make a beautiful, somewhat-ombre-style scarf.

    But we’re not making a scarf today.

    Nope, today we’re going to use that beautiful Scarfie yarn to make a hat! Sometimes, you just gotta do the unexpected. 🙂

    This pattern is a very simple slouch pattern. But paired with the gorgeous gradual color changes of Scarfie, it becomes completely unique! It just goes to show you how yarn choice can make all the difference.

    About the Name

    I named this pattern the “Macchiato Slouch” because the combination of the yarn color and the gradual fade made me think back to my days as a barista. One of my favorite drinks was an iced caramel macchiato — vanilla syrup, milk, and a couple shots of espresso and caramel drizzle to mark the top (macchiato means marked in Italian). So instead of the espresso instantly mixing with milk, as it would in a latte, the espresso sits on top of it until it sloooooowly blends in from the top-down. Now, the next time you to go your local coffee shop, you can wow them with your knowledge… and with your new hat!

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    MACCHIATO SLOUCH HAT

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    Level: Easy

    Size:
    One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
    Hat measures 9.5” across at band, and is 9” tall.

    Materials:

    • N hook (9.00mm) and I hook (5.50mm)
    • Yarn needle
    • Lion Brand Scarfie Yarn (I used Cream/Taupe), about 140 yards, which is less than half a skein – so you can make two! (Scarfie is a bulky weight yarn.)
    • Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)
    • Button (1-1.5″) and tools to attach it

    Gauge:
    With N hook, 7HDC = 3″

    Stitches Used:
    MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
    CH (chain)
    SS (slip stitch)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)

    Notes:

    (1) This hat is worked in a continuous spiral until the band. Do not join, chain or turn until instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
    (2) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
    (3) The button and button flap on this hat are just decorative (they don’t actually function). There is no buttonhole, and at the end, we’ll just sew everything neatly in place.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    To begin:
    Using N Hook, make a magic circle.

    Round 1:  10 HDC in MC (10)

    Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around (20)

    Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around (40)

    Note: At this point, it’s going to start looking wavy. You’re doing it right! The back of the hat has a faux-cinched look to it, and this is how we achieve it. Once you get to the body of the hat, it will start to straighten itself out naturally.

    Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (60)

    Rounds 5-15: HDC around (60)

    Switch to I hook.

    Round 16: SC around (60). CH7.

    From this point on, we will be working in turned rounds. We still won’t be joining.

    Round 17: Turn your work. Working down the back side of the CH7, SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH, then continue to SC around the hat (you’re now crocheting in the opposite direction as the previous round) until you reach the beginning again. (66)

    Rounds 18-22: CH1, turn. SC around. (66)

    Edging: CH1. SC around the entire band of the hat, including the button flap, putting (SC,CH1,SC) in each corner.

    Fasten off, leaving a 12″ tail. Use the tail to gently sew the button flap in place, then weave in all ends securely. Attach decorative button in place with yarn or a needle and thread.

  • Ribbed Cinched Ear Warmer

    Ribbed Cinched Ear Warmer

    © Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

    Thank you to Lion Brand for providing the yarn for this pattern sample.

    As far as social media is concerned, my Cinched Ear Warmer has been one of my top all-time most popular patterns. It’s one of my earlier ones, and when I made it, I knew there were so many options for changing it up. I just never got around to it until now! This new version begins with the same cinched style, but a ribbing stitch gives it a unique look.

    The Yarn

    I use Heartland in a lot of my patterns because I love everything about it – the weight (it’s worsted, but feels light), the colors (I’m a sucker for natural hues) and the sheen (not too shiny, not too dull). After the first sample, I decided that this pattern might look awesome in two colors. I didn’t want it to look striped so much as two-toned, so I chose two colors that were pretty close in shade – “Katmai” and “Grand Canyon”. Click here to view the full range of colors available.

    yarnpic

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    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

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    RIBBED CINCHED EARWARMER

    Level: Easy

    Size:
    One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
    Earwarmer measures 18” around, and is 3” wide.

    Materials:

    • H hook (5.00mm)
    • About 60 yards of Lion Brand Heartland* (Samples are shown in Glacier Bay and Katmai/Grand Canyon)
      *About Heartland:
        Weight: #4 worsted
                    Fiber: 100% Acrylic
      Yardage: 5oz/142g (251yd/230m)
      Gauge: 12 sc + 15 rows = 4 inches on size J-10 [6 mm] hook
    • Yarn needle

    Gauge:
    With H hook, 4 HDC = 1″

    Stitches Used:
    CH (chain)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    FHDC (foundation half double crochet – click here for a tutorial)
    RibHDC (also known as Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC; see Special Stitch, below)

    Special Stitch:
    RibHDC – instead of putting your HDC in the top loops, find the 3rd loop. Because we’re working in turned rows, the third loop will be located just underneath the front loop. Insert your hook there and create your HDC. This forces both of the top loops to rest on the front of your project, creating a ribbing effect. It is also referred to as a Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC. (Confused? You can view a photo tutorial here.)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
    (2) Starting chains do not count as stitches.
    (3) This pattern is easily adjusted to any head size. 68 STS was perfect for me, but you might want to wrap the first round around your head as you go to get the perfect fit for you.
    (4) For the tan-colored sample in the photos, I actually used two different colors of Heartland (Katmai and Grand Canyon). I switched colors every other row, and carried my yarn instead of fastening it off each time.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    With H hook,

    Round 1: FHDC 68. Join to the first FHDC with a slip stitch, being careful not to twist the row.
    (Or, if you don’t like the Foundation Chain method,  just CH 69, HDC in second CH from hook and HDC across.)

    Round 2: CH1, turn. RibHDC around. Join with a SL ST to first RibHDC. (68)

    Rounds 3-12: Repeat Round 2.

    Cut your yarn, leaving about a 12″ tail, and finish off but don’t weave in the tail. Use your yarn needle to sew up the first round of FDCs, then weave in that tail and cut.

    To Cinch:
    Please note that the photos below are taken from my original Cinched EarWarmer pattern, so the pattern looks slightly different, but it’s the same concept.)

    1. Thread the long tail through your yarn needle. Gather the seamed section of the headband, and fold in half so that the fold is facing you.

    2. Bring either side up to the top of the fold and hold secure with your fingers.

    3. Run your yarn needle through all three sections of gathered material. The closer you get to the surface, the better your cinch will look; so I run mine right under the top loops of the outer sections, and under just a few strands of the center fold.

    4. Wrap the yarn around the underside of the cinch, then through the sections again. Do this a few times to secure the cinch, then tie off underneath and weave in the tail.

    cinching steps

    Ribbed Cinched Ear Warmer  |  Free Ear Warmer Headband Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

  • Apple Crisp Cowl

    Apple Crisp Cowl

    Fall is HERE! It’s time for sweaters, hayrides, pumpkins and apple-pie-scented-candles. This has always been my favorite time of the year, and I do my best to indulge in as many fall-related activities as I possibly can. Because as we all know (well, at least those of us who live in the Midwest, USA), this season goes waaaaaaaaaaay too fast.

    My little monkeys and I have a tradition that actually goes back to before they were born. On the first day of fall, I always celebrate by making apple crisp. Now that they’re old enough, my boys have joined in on this little ritual.

    Click here to view my Homemade Apple Crisp recipe!

    This year is the first year that my oldest monkey is in school all day, and also the first year that my youngest monkey is in preschool for the mornings. So while I wait for them to get home for our apple-crisp-making party, I’m celebrating the first day of fall in another way, too… with a new pattern release!

    The Apple Crisp Cowl is actually a mixture of two other patterns: the Sparkly Buttoned Cowl, and the Maribel Cowl. I love my Sparkly Buttoned Cowl, but it’s pretty fancy-looking, especially with the metallic yarn I used. I love the way it’s shaped though, so I wanted to come up with a more casual version of the same cowl style. I also love the ribbing on the Maribel Cowl, so I started there. And the Apple Crisp Cowl was born.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

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    APPLE CRISP COWL

    Level: Easy

    Size:
    Approximately 30″ long by 11″ tall

    Materials:

    • I hook (5.50mm) and K hook (6.50mm)
    • Yarn needle
    • Approximately 350-360 yards of your favorite worsted weight yarn – such as Vanna’s Choice
    • Two buttons, approximately 1″

    Gauge:
    With I hook, 4HDC = 1″

    Stitches Used:
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    FHDC (Foundation Half Double Crochet; view tutorial here)
    RibHDC (also known as Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC; view tutorial here)
    SK (Skip)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
    (2) This pattern calls for two different sizes of crochet hooks. A larger hook is used on the top edge to keep it from pulling, because of the way that the cowl is constructed. Hook change is noted in the pattern.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Using I hook:

    Row 1:  FHDC 38. (View a tutorial here… or if Foundation Stitches are not your cup o’ cider, you can also CH39, then HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH.)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. RibHDC across. (38)

    Rows 3-83 (or until it measures about 30″ in length): Repeat Row 2. (38)

    Switch to K hook.

    Row 84: CH1, DO NOT TURN. SC in same ST (the last ST from Row 83). SC evenly down the long edge of your project. (83)

    Rows 85-87: CH1, turn. SC across. (83)

    Row 88 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS, SC in next. SC the rest of the way across. (83, counting CH2)

    Row 89: CH1, turn. SC across, putting 2SC in the CH2 buttonhole space from the previous row.

    Rows 90-91: CH1, turn. SC across.

    Edging: CH1, do not turn. SC around the entire piece, putting (SC, CH1, SC) in each corner.

    Buttons: Lay your scarf flat, with the buttonhole at the top left corner. Your first button should be sewn 1 inch (both sides) from the bottom right corner; your second button should be sewn 6 inches from the right edge, 1 inch from the bottom edge (in line with the first button).

    TO WEAR:

    It can feel a bit tricky at first! Start by putting it around your neck with the buttonhole on your left, and the SC rows at the top. The button that is NOT in the corner is the button that will go through the buttonhole. Once you’ve joined those together, you can slip the corner button through whichever part of the scarf you want to achieve your desired look. If you need a little extra help, watch this video of the Sparkly Buttoned Cowl (it’s the same type of cowl):