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Market Tote Bag

Even though temperatures here are still dipping below zero, it is March, which in my corner of the world means spring is coming. And while we’re left to keep on guessing as to when we’ll be graced with its presence, I’ve decided I’m ready to start crocheting for warm weather fun now.

One of the goals I’ve set for myself this year is to eat more healthy, whole foods, which starts with buying more healthy produce. And I want to make it a point to buy from local farmers. Not only is it better for you (you can make sure you’re buying real food that hasn’t been doused in chemicals); but supporting your local economy, especially farmers, is just a good thing to do.

I love all the market bags I’ve seen on Pinterest, and I wanted to make one for myself that I could take to the farmers’ markets this spring and summer. I’m hoping that having a cute bag will be motivating, kind of like how new running shoes can give you renewed excitement for exercising. Except this market bag is a whole lot cheaper than running shoes! (With yarn and buttons, plus sales and coupons, I probably put less than $4 into it!)

This bag is also very easy to make larger or smaller, if you’re comfortable with deviating from patterns. Just add a couple of rounds to the base for a bigger tote, or take a couple away for a smaller one!

MARKET TOTE BAG

Hooks: H (5.00mm) and I (5.50mm)
Yarn: Approx. 315 yards of worsted weight yarn in your favorite color (I used Hobby Lobby’s “I Love This Yarn” in Midgreen)
Buttons (optional): Four. I used 1-1/8″ wooden buttons by La Mode (style #3102)
Difficulty: Easy
Dimensions: The bag (not including straps) measures about 12″ wide by 14″ tall. The straps add another 13″ or so.
Notes: For the base of the bag, you will join rounds. Once you get past the base, you’ll start crocheting in a continuous spiral. This is noted within the pattern.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

With H hook, begin with a Magic Circle.

Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as first DC here and throughout); 11 DC in Magic Circle. Join. (12)

Round 2: Ch 2; 1 DC in same St. (2 DC in next St) around. Join. (24)

Round 3: Ch 2; 1 DC in same St, 1 DC in next. (2 DC in next; 1 DC in next) around. Join. (36)

Round 4: Ch 2; 1 DC in same St, 1 DC in each of the next 2 St. (2 DC in next; 1 DC in each of the next 2 St) around. Join. (48)

Round 5: Ch 2; 1 DC in same St, 1 DC in each of the next 3 St. (2 DC in next; 1 DC in each of the next 3 St) around. Join. (60)

Round 6: Ch 2; 1 DC in same St, 1 DC in each of the next 4 St. (2 DC in next; 1 DC in each of the next 4 St) around. Join. (72)

Switch to I hook. From this point on, you will no longer join rounds. I use a stitch marker (like a bobby pin) to mark the first stitch of the round I am working on.

Round 7: Ch 1 (does NOT count as first stitch). 1 SC + 1 DC in same St. Skip next St. (1 SC + 1 DC in next; skip next) around.

Round 8: 1 SC + 1 DC in first skipped space from previous round. (1 SC + 1 DC in next skipped space) around. (Note: If you separate the stitches to find the space, you may see two spaces: one to the left, and one a little down and to the right. You’ll want to work your stitches in the space to the left.)

Rounds 9-29: Repeat Round 8.

Switch back to H hook.

Round 30: Working in top loops again, (1 SC in each St) around.

Rounds 31-36: Repeat Round 30.

Next you’ll add the straps, still working in a continuous spiral.

Round 37: Ch 100. Skip 20 St; Sl St into the next St. 1 SC in each of the next 16 St. Ch 100. Skip next 20 St; Sl St into next. 1 SC in each of the next Sts until you reach the first chain.

Round 38: 1 SC in each St around. When you are working on the straps, put your SCs in the BACK LOOP only of each Ch. When working around the base, SC as you normally would, under both loops.

Round 39: 1 SC in each St around (including up and around the straps).

Rounds 40-41: Repeat Round 39.

Optional: Add more rows for thicker straps.

Finishing: Sl St to the next St (you should be at the bottom right base of the first strap you made). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Add your buttons to both sides of the bag, or embellish as desired.

March 6, 2014
Simply Layered Flower Embellishment

The inspiration for this little flower came from my Slouchy Hat Pattern. I love the way the crown of the hat is wavy instead of flat, and I thought to myself, why not take that concept and make a simple wavy flower? Easy peasy!

I wrote down two variations of this flower – one small (about 2.25″ wide) and one medium (2.75″ wide). They can be used separately, or layered to make a doubly-cute version.

I finished mine off with some gorgeous shank buttons. I have a terrible habit of taking my newly purchased buttons off of their packaging for storage in my craft box, so I don’t know the brand name, but I am relatively positive I bought them at Hobby Lobby.

I hope you love this beginner-friendly pattern!

Layering the two sizes (optional)
To layer, simply use the starting tail from the smaller flower and, using a yarn needle, stick it through the hole of the larger flower (I add my shank button first); then tie a couple of knots to secure, and weave in ends. (Or leave a tail for sewing onto a project.)

SIMPLY LAYERED FLOWER EMBELLISHMENT (SMALL SIZE)

Hook: I used G (4.25mm)
Yarn: Worsted weight in your favorite color (I used Hobby Lobby’s “I Love This Yarn”)
Difficulty: Super Easy

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Begin with a Magic Circle.

Round 1: Ch 1; 8 SC in Magic Circle. Join.

Round 2: Ch 3; 3 DC in same St. (4 DC in next St) around. Join to top of first DC. Fasten off* and weave in ends (*leave your starting tail if you plan to layer it on top of a larger flower)

SIMPLY LAYERED FLOWER EMBELLISHMENT (MEDIUM SIZE)

Hook: I used G (4.25mm)
Yarn: Worsted weight in your favorite color (I used Hobby Lobby’s “I Love This Yarn”)
Difficulty: Super Easy

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Begin with a Magic Circle.

Round 1: Ch 1; 8 SC in Magic Circle. Join.

Round 2: Ch 4; 4 TC in same St. (5 TC in next St) around. Join to top of first TC. Fasten off* and weave in ends (*leave your starting tail if you plan to layer it on top of a larger flower)

March 1, 2014
Princess Purse

I call this purse the Princess Purse because the ruffled top and the bling on the flower just seem princessy to me. (Yep, “princessy” is definitely a word.) Can’t you picture it in the colors of your daughter’s favorite Disney heroine? Think icy blue and white (Elsa), gold and pale yellow (Belle), or lavender and pink (Rapunzel). What an adorable addition to any little girl’s dress-up closet, and it’s SO simple to make!

PRINCESS PURSE

Hook: H (5.00mm) and I (5.5mm)
Yarn: Worsted weight in your favorite color (I used Hobby Lobby’s “I Love This Yarn”)
Difficulty: Easy
Size: The body of the purse is about 5.5″ tall by 7.5″ wide
Notes: This bag is crocheted in the round. The floor of the bag is joined rounds, and the rest of the base is crocheted in a continuous spiral (noted in pattern).
Stitches Used: Ch, SC, HDC, DC, TC (Triple or Treble Crochet), FPSC (Front Post Single Crochet)

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

With H hook, Ch 21.

Round 1: 2 SC in second Ch from hook. 1 SC in each of the next 18 Ch. 2 SC in next. You are now working on the back side of the chain. 2 SC in next. 1 SC in each of the next 18 Ch. 2 SC in last Ch. Join to top of first SC. (44 SC)

Round 2: Ch 1. 2 SC in same St. 1 SC in each of the next 20 St. 2 SC in next. 2 SC in next. 1 SC in each of the next 20 St. 2 SC in last St. Join to top of first SC. (48 SC)

Round 3: Ch 1. 1 HDC in each St around. DO NOT JOIN. From this point on, you will work in a continuous spiral (until noted otherwise); use a stitch marker, like a bobby pin, if needed. (48 HDC)

Rounds 4-12: 1 HDC in each stitch around (48 HDC)

Round 13: 1 SC in each stitch around (48 SC)

Rounds 14-15: Repeat Round 13. (48 SC)

Round 16 (ruffle edging, first layer): Ch 2. 2 FPDC in same St. (3 FPDC in next St) around. Join to top of first FPDC. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Round 17 (ruffle edging, second layer): With I hook, attach a contrasting color via one of the top sets of SC loops from Round 15 (see photo below; this row of loops is hidden behind the first ruffle layer). Ch 4; 2 TC in same St. (3 TC in next St) around. Join to top of first TC. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Straps
Using the Chainless Foundation method, FSC 90. Fasten off and weave in ends. Sew or glue ends to opposite sides of the inside of the purse.

Embellishment Flower
This flower is a free pattern of its own, and you can find it here: Simply Layered Embellishment Flower Pattern

March 1, 2014
Printable Labels for Handmade Items

I’ve been working on ways to improve the packaging of my made-to-order items. Inspired by other labels I’ve seen, I decided to design my own. You are welcome to use them for your own sold items and gifts!

I created a wrap-around version, for smaller items:

…as well as a simple card for those items that are too large to be wrapped by a single sheet of paper:

Click the graphics below to download these PDFs, then print from your home computer (I used cardstock). Minimal ink, maximum cuteness!

February 17, 2014
Tutorial: Ribbed Half Double Crochet Stitch (RibHDC)

Looking to add a little excitement to your Half Double Crochet stitches? Look no further than this VERY simple variation on the HDC! All it takes is inserting your hook into a different loop than usual to come up with this beautiful, faux knit pattern.

Now, there may be a technical abbreviation for this stitch, but I haven’t found it. So until I learn differently, I’ll be referring to it in my patterns as RibHDC. 🙂

What’s great about this stitch is that it shows up on both the back and front sides of your work, so it works beautifully for scarves, washclothes, etc. And it’s not as bulky as the front/back post method or the front/back loops only method.

Let’s get started…

First, we’ll take a look at the Half Double Crochet stitch. Normally, you’d yarn over and insert your hook underneath the two loops on the top, highlighted in the photo below in red. But for this simple modification, you’ll yarn over and insert your hook into the loop DIRECTLY BELOW the top loop, as highlighted in green. This special loop only shows up on the back side of your HDC stitches, so we’ll be turning our work as we go.

Here’s another view of that special loop, from the side.

So to get started, you’ll want to create a row of regular HDC. For this tutorial, let’s say 20. You can do this by chaining 21, HDC in 2nd Ch from hook, and HDC across. OR, you can use the Chainless Foundation technique!

Once you have your first row, Ch 1 (doesn’t count as HDC) and turn your work. You should be able to see those special loops now. Yarn over, and insert your hook under that first special loop.

Complete your typical HDC stitch: Pull your yarn through, yarn over, and pull through all 3 loops on the hook.

Done! Continue down the row until you’ve completed 20. You aren’t going to see that ribbing yet, unless you turn the work over and take a peek. The row you are working on creates the ribbing on the opposite side. Do a few rows and you’ll see a beautiful pattern emerge!

Sooooo easy, right?

Enjoy!

February 5, 2014
Valentine’s Day Mug Cozy
Along with millions of others here in Midwest USA, I’m burrowing in for Snowpocalypse Pt. 4 tonight! (Seriously, will this crazy winter EVER give us a break?) While most people rushed to the grocery store this afternoon to empty the bread and milk aisles (as is tradition in our area whenever rough weather is imminent), I rushed to Hobby Lobby to grab some yarn to keep me busy over the next few days while my boys and I are snowed in.

Snowstorms aside, it’s time to switch gears to the season of love… Valentine’s Day is just around the corner! So, here’s a cute little love-themed mug cozy you can whip up quickly to wrap around your hot or cold drinks. This cozy has a button closure so it will work on both standard sized mugs AND your favorite to-go beverage.

This cozy uses a variation of the HDC, called 3rd Loop HDC. (Note: I abbreviated it as “RibHDC” because I couldn’t for the life of me find an official abbreviation for it, but I’ve since learned that it is called “3rd loop HDC”).

You can take a look at the tutorial here. It’s a very simple little trick to master and gives a beautiful faux knit look. It can only be done on the HDC stitch, as you’ll see in the tutorial. Give it a try!

VALENTINE’S DAY MUG COZY

Hook: H (5.00mm)
Yarn: Worsted (I used Vanna’s Choice in Cranberry)
Other Materials Needed: Yarn needle, small piece of white felt, sewing thread, 1″ button (I got mine from Hobby Lobby)
Difficulty: Easy

Notes:
- Ch 1 does NOT count as starting HDC
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Ch 11.

Row 1: HDC in 2nd Ch from hook. HDC in next 9. (10 HDC)

Ch 1 does NOT count as a stitch.

Rows 2-5: Ch 1; turn. RibHDC in same St and each St across (10 RibHDC)

Rows 6-13: Ch 1; turn. SC in same St and in each St across (10 SC)

Row 14: Ch 1; turn. HDC in same St and in each St across (10 HDC)

Rows 15-24: Ch 1; turn. RibHDC in same St and each St across (10 RibHDC)

Row 25: Turn (do not chain). Sl St in first 3 St. Ch 1, SC in same St and in next 5 St, leaving the rest unworked (6 SC)

Rows 26-28: Ch 1; turn. SC in same St and in each St across (6 SC)

Row 29: Ch 1; turn. SC in same St and next St. Ch 2; skip the next 2 St (this is the button hole). 1 SC in each of the last 2 St.

Row 30: Ch 1; turn. SC in same St and next St. 2 SC in Ch 2 space. 1 SC in each of the last 2 St. (6 SC)

Row 31: Ch 1; turn. SC in same St and in each St across (6 SC)

Edging: Ch 1 (do not turn). SC evenly around the entire cozy, adding an extra SC in each corner. Fasten off; weave in ends.

Button
Sew button to front of cozy on the end opposite of the button hole.

Heart Applique
Cut a heart out of a piece of felt, about 1.5″ high x 1.5″ wide. (I eyeballed mine, but if you aren’t comfortable with that, you can find some free clipart, print it and cut out, and trace it onto your felt.) Using thread the same color as your cozy, sew around the edges as shown.
February 5, 2014
Super Simple Newborn Beanie
I love making simple beanies. Besides the fact that they are SO fast, they are great for charity projects. There are tons of great ways to give back using newborn beanie hats. Hospitals use them in their OB wards (I still have the homemade beanies my sons wore home from the hospital!). Or how about donating them to orphanages? Last summer I had the opportunity to hand-deliver over 300 newborn beanies to orphanages in Bogota, Colombia (more on my connections with that wonderful country later).

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Today’s free pattern isn’t so much a pattern as it is just a little inspiration; a fun, simple way to finish your typical newborn hat to make it stand out a bit more. The hat itself is just your standard, double crochet beanie hat. I added a contrasting row of SC to the bottom and a cute little button on the side, and that’s all there is to it!

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Many of my readers make charity hats. Let me know in the comments where you donate your hats!

SUPER SIMPLE NEWBORN BEANIE

Hook: H (5.00mm)
Yarn: Small amount of worsted in two contrasting colors (I typically use Hobby Lobby’s “I Love This Yarn” or Lion Brand’s “Vanna’s Choice”)
Difficulty: Easy

Notes:
- Ch 2 does not count as starting DC. (Note: Originally, I had incorrectly stated that it does. Sorry for the confusion!) When joining, join to the first DC, not to the top of the chain.
- This pattern is written dragon testosterone in American Standard Terms.
- This pattern was updated on September 12, 2015.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

With H hook and first color yarn, make a Magic Circle.

Round 1: Ch 2; 12 DC in magic circle; join. (12)

Round 2: Ch 2; 2 DC in same St and in each St around. Join. (24)

Round 3: Ch 2; 2DC in same St, 1 DC in next, (2 DC in next, 1 DC in next) around. (36)

Round 4: Ch 2; 2DC in same St, 1 DC in each of the next 17 St, 2 DC in next, 1 DC in each of the next 17. Join. (38)

Rounds 5-9: Ch 2; DC in each St around. Join.

Switch to contrasting color.

Round 10: Ch 1; SC in each St around. Join. Fasten off and weave in all ends.
February 3, 2014
Double Wrap Infinity Scarf
This crazy cold weather has me wanting to make more and more scarves! But really, can a girl ever have enough scarves (especially when she doesn’t have to pay a ton of money for them because she knows how to make them herself)? I think not.

Here’s another easy infinity scarf pattern. It’s long and looks beautiful wrapped twice around your neck. I used Vanna’s Choice yarn for this one, but any worsted weight yarn will work.

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DOUBLE WRAP INFINITY SCARF

Size: 58″ around by 7″ wide
Hook: I (5.50mm)
Yarn: Worsted, approx. 300-310 yards (I used 2 skeins of Vanna’s Choice in Taupe for the scarf in the photo)
Difficulty: Beginner/Easy
Gauge: With I hook, 6 rows of 9 DC = 3″ square

Notes:
- Beginning chains do not count as stitches. When you join, join to the top of the 1st true stitch of the round.
- This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
- This pattern was revamped November 25, 2015. (The original pattern called for an H hook and a starting round of 220 STS. You should disregard this information unless you were already in the middle of the pattern when the changes were made.)
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Round 1: Using the Chainless Foundation technique for SINGLE CROCHET, FSC 170. (Please note that the main tutorial I just linked to is for the double crochet stitch, but the single crochet version IS included at the bottom of that page.) Bring ends together as you normally would for crocheting in the round, being careful not to twist the round. Join with a Sl St to the first FSC.

Alternate start: CH171. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Join with a SL ST to the first SC of the round, being careful not to twist the round. (170 SC)

Round 2: Ch 2. DC in each ST around. Join with Sl St. (170)

Round 3: Ch 1. HDC in each ST around. Join with Sl St. (170)

Round 4: Ch 2. DC in each ST around. Join with Sl St. (170)

Round 5: Ch 1. SC in each ST around. Join with Sl St. (170)

Rounds 6-17: Repeat rounds 2-5 three more times. (170)

Fasten off; weave in ends.
January 30, 2014
Chunky Ribbed Cowl
It’s cold outside today. And it’s only supposed to get colder (-40 windchill, anybody?) tomorrow. While most of us here in the Midwest are well accustomed to blizzardy winters, it’s a little harder to get used to the record frigid temps this season has been throwing at us.

I mean, when your Siberian Husky wants to hang out inside all day, you KNOW it’s cold.

On top of that, both of my boys are sick, and I’m not feeling so hot, either. Whatever way you look at it, the Langfords aren’t going anywhere for a while. So, I deemed today “Toy Story Marathon Day”! (I never said this was a blog about how to be a perfect mother.) Lucky for me, I have a stash of yarn to experiment on and a couple of little monkeys to cuddle. Really, it’s been a good day so far. 🙂

Here’s a chunky, twisted cowl that I made this morning with Lion Brand Hometown USA yarn (affiliate link). The twist in the cowl helps it to drape beautifully and effortlessly for those of us who are accessory-impaired. There’s no wrong way to wear a twisted cowl!, and this one works up fast.

The ribbing really catches the sun and give the cowl such a gorgeous, textured look. You’re sure to get compliments when you wear your new Chunky Ribbed Cowl, and when people’s jaws drop after hearing that YOU made it, you’ll smile to yourself about how EASY it was! Enjoy!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

CHUNKY RIBBED COWL

Hooks: N (9.00mm)
Yarn: Super Bulky; I used 2 skeins, approx. 162 yards, of Lion Brand’s Hometown USA (affiliate link) in Los Angeles Tan.
Difficulty: Easy

Notes:
- Ch 2 DOES NOT count as starting DC.
- Be sure to count your stitches, as that last DC can be easily skipped when you aren’t paying attention. It’s hard to see, especially when using the ribbing technique.
- Attach your new skein of yarn at the beginning of row 6. You probably won’t have enough yarn to complete row 6 anyway, and putting yarn changes at the seam keeps the rest of the scarf looking nicer.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

With N hook,

To begin:
FDC 65. Bring ends together as you normally would for crocheting in the round. (Optional: To add a twist to the cowl, take one end and flip it all the way around so that the corner that was at the top will again be at the top.) Join with a SL ST to the top of the first DC. (65)

Optional start:
CH67. DC in 3^rd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (Optional: To add a twist to the cowl, take one end and flip it all the way around so that the corner that was at the top will again be at the top.) Join with a SL ST to the top of the first DC. (65)

Rounds 2-10: CH2, turn. In BLO, DC in each St around. Join with Sl St to top of first DC. (65)

Fasten off; weave in all ends except starting tail. If you used the Foundation Double Crochet method, use that starting tail to sew the gap between the first and last stitches of Round 1 together, then weave in to finish.
January 27, 2014
Jenny Slouch Hat
I love slouchy hats! In fact in my pre-crochet days, when I was designing my friend’s crochet web site a few years back, she paid me partly in crochet goods… and my first request was, “Can you make me a slouchy hat?” I think they are so fun and they tend to look great even on girls who are convinced that they don’t look good in hats. (Yeah, I’m one of those.)

I originally created this slouchy hat for my little sis. I also took a dozen of them to a college artisan fair in November. They sold out! Now, you can have one of your own. (Pattern below pictures!)

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

JENNY SLOUCH HAT

Size:
Teen – Adult Small
Hat measures 9” across at band, and is 10” tall.

Materials:
- Hook sizes K (6.5mm), H(5.0mm), G(4.25mm)
- Yarn needle
- Worsted weight yarn (approx. 3oz; I often use I Love This Yarn or Vanna’s Choice, but my current favorite — and the yarn used in the photos you see on this post — is Bernat Satin).
- Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)
Gauge:
5 HDC x 3 rows = 1.5” square

Stitches Used:
MC (magic circle)
CH (chain)
SS (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
CRDC (crossed double crochet, see Special Stitch)

Special Stitch:
CRDC – skip one stitch, DC into next stitch, DC in skipped stitch to form an “X” from the two DC. Be sure to skip an empty stitch with each new CRDC so that the Xs do not share stitches with each other.

Notes:
(1) This hat is worked in a continuous spiral. Do not join at the end of each round and do not chain at the beginning of rounds unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the last stitch of each round.
(2) If you know that you tend to crochet tightly, be sure to go up a hook size or two. I basically get two kinds of comments on this pattern: “It fits perfect and I love it!” or “This would barely fit my two year old.” The CRDCs have a lot of leeway as far as how tightly they are crocheted, so keep a loose tension as best you can. Also keep in mind that because this is a slouch hat, you want the band to be snug so that it stays on your head. If you think that a 9″ band is just too tight, then don’t go down to the G hook on the band.
(3) This hat relies on good drape to get the right look, so be mindful of that when you choose your yarn. Red Heart Super Saver, for instance, would not be a good choice.
(4) Also regarding the sizing/drape: this hat is modeled on girls with heads that fall into the “teen/adult small” sizing category. If you have a larger head or lots of hair, it won’t drape as much. I have a medium-sized head and think it’s the perfect amount of drape for me. If you want lots of drape, add more rounds to 9-16 before you start decreasing at round 17.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Using K Hook, begin with magic circle.

Round 1: 10 HDC in magic circle (10)

Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around (20)

Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around (40)

Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (60)

Round 5: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (80)

Switch to H hook.

Round 6: CRDC around (you will complete 40 CRDC for a total of 80 ST)

Round 7: Skip 1^st stitch (this will stagger your CRDCs, which gives your hat a diagonal look). CRDC around.* (You will complete 40 CRDC for a total of 80 ST) *Because of skipped stitch, your last CRDC will go one stitch into the next row.

Round 8: CRDC around. (You will complete 40 CRDC for a total of 80 ST)

Rounds 9-16: Repeat Round 8

Switch to G Hook.

Round 17: CRDC around, skipping one stitch after every 2 CRDCs until you reach end of round (you will complete 32 CRDC for a total of 64 ST)

Round 18: SC around (64)

Rounds 19-26: Repeat Round 18

When you complete Round 26, make 5 slip stitches (SS); fasten off and weave in ends.
January 24, 2014