Category: All Posts

  • Malia Newborn Beanie

    Malia Newborn Beanie

    This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection (including an adult beanie, slouchy hat, infinity scarf, and buttoned cowl), please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

    Is there anything cuter than a little newborn beanie? Every time I make one, I think to myself, were my boys’ heads really this small once? (Actually, probably not. My kids all had big heads!)

    Unlike the rest of the Malia Crochet-Along Patterns, which used Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic yarn, for this pattern I used Cascade Longwood which is one of my all-time favorite yarns. The Rustic Romantic is gorgeous but it has hemp in it, and that makes it not quite soft enough for a newborn head. Longwood on the other hand is smooth and soft and has beautiful stitch definition, and it washes up great. I made my son’s baby blanket from it and it is holding up beautifully!

    There is endless debate about whether or not pom poms (or buttons, or ribbons) should be used on a baby’s hat. My thought is, a newborn should never be left unattended ever, unless she is in the safety of her crib, and she wouldn’t be wearing a winter beanie during nap time, anyway! I don’t even leave hats on my babies in their car seats, because hell hath no fury like that of a baby who has just pulled his hat over his eyes and is out of reach of his driving mama. Of course, it’s up to you whether you are comfortable attaching a pom pom to this hat, and I think it’s pretty adorable either way.

    This hat uses my special faux-cinched, top-down, vertical method – meaning you begin the hat in rounds, then switch to vertical rows, and you end up with a beautiful vertical design without having to sew it shut at the end. This method produces a nice even cinch at the top. At first the method might seem confusing, but many who have tried it have ended up falling in love with it! There is a video tutorial for the adult version of this beanie that may help you as you start the hat. Your numbers will be different, but the construction is the same.

    Free Printable Tags

    I made some cute printable tags for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting this hat, a tag or wrap just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. I included a wraparound label as well as a smaller tag (shown in photo below) that can be attached to a piece of decorative string wrapped around your finished product, by punching a hole through the corner and threading the string through before tying a bow to secure. Print on cardstock for best results!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA NEWBORN BEANIE

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Finished Size: 5″ tall x 12″ circumference (will fit a 0-3 month old baby with an average 13-15″ head)

    Yarn: 80 yards of #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Cascade Longwood.

    Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Gauge: The importance of checking your gauge for this project cannot be understated. Because of the construction of the hat, it is difficult to adjust mid-pattern if you discover it is turning out too large. Even if you typically do not complete gauge checks, I strongly encourage you to do so this time. To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    CH17.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, optional small faux fur pom pom

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:
    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rounds and rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) Click here to view a video tutorial for the adult version of this pattern.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To Begin: Make a magic circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 8SC in MC, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (8)

    Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (16)

    Round 3: CH1. 3SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (48)

    At this point you should have a very wavy circle. We are now switching to vertical rows, and working them one by one using the stitches from Round 3.

    Row 1: CH19, turn. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH; row is complete. Being sure that the wrong side of the circle is facing you (because we turned), SL ST to the base of the CH19, then SL ST to the next ST along Round 3. (18 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 14 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (18)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (18 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 14 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (18)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (18 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 14 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (18)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (18 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 14 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (18)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (18 + 2 SL STS)

    Rows 10-41: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 4 more times.

    Rows 42-48: Repeat Rows 2-8.

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the seam.

    SEAMING

    Turn hat inside out. Close up the magic circle and weave in that end only. Then, thread your yarn needle onto the long finishing tail and sew the first 4 stitches (the ribbed band) together, stitch by stitch. The following photo is a screenshot from the adult version’s video tutorial:

    Once you finish with the ribbed section, sew the rest of the seam up, stitch by stitch, putting your needle through the 3rd loop of the final row of HDCs and across to the corresponding stitch on the other side of the seam. This will ensure that the seam creates a row of visible top loops to match the other 3rd loop rows around the hat. The following photo is a screenshot from the adult version’s video tutorial, with the 3rd loops highlighted:

    Weave in your tail and cut off the excess. Attach a pom pom (optional.)

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #malianewbornbeanie, and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Malia Infinity Scarf

    Malia Infinity Scarf

    This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection (including a beanie, slouch, and buttoned cowl), please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

    The third pattern in the Malia CAL is a gorgeous infinity scarf! The texture in this scarf is just to die for, and the addition of the fringe gives it a casual, relaxed vibe.

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    If you need a little extra help with the pattern, here is a video tutorial, and the free pattern is at the bottom of the page!

    Free Printable Tags

    I made some cute printable tags for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting this cowl, a tag just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. Print on cardstock for best results!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA INFINITY SCARF

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 56″ around x 6.5″ wide

    Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: 580 yards of #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Okie Wheat.”

    Gauge:  To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    CH17.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 4 buttons (1″ – 1-1/8″)

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    FHDC     (foundation half double crochet – see “Special Stitches”)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:

    Foundation Half Double Crochet (FHDC)
    This is the recommended way of beginning the pattern and is better shown than explained, so please watch the included tutorial video as a guide. There is also an optional classic chain start noted in the pattern, if you would like to do that instead.

    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) Pattern is worked as a flat piece and then secured into an infinity style with buttons.
    (4) A video tutorial is available up in the post, or by clicking here.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    Row 1: FHDC* 204. (*Alternate start: CH205, HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH.) (204)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 202 STS. SC in final ST. (204)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (204)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 101 times. SC in final ST. (204)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across.

    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 202 STS. SC in final ST. (204)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (204)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 101 times. SC in final ST. (204)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across.

    Rows 10-25: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 2 more times. (204)

    Row 26: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 202 STS. SC in final ST. (204)

    Edging (1 side only, optional): CH1, SC in same ST to round corner. Working down the short edge of the scarf, SC in each row (26). SL ST to the 2nd corner, fasten off and weave in all ends.

    Fringe: Cut about 160 9″ long strands of yarn. (I wrap mine around a 9″ cutting board.) Start at one corner and attach them in groups of 3, every 4 stitches along the entire bottom edge of the scarf.

    Buttons: Lay the scarf out in front of you wrong side up and bring the short ends together, overlapping the end with the edging (if applicable) over the edge without the edging by about 1″. (Ends should now be right side facing up.) Pin it in place if desired. Use yarn and yarn needle or a sewing needle and thread to sew each button onto the edge, evenly spaced, sewing through both layers to hold the scarf together. To help with spacing, start with the top and bottom buttons and then move on to the middle two.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliascarf, and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Malia Buttoned Cowl

    Malia Buttoned Cowl

     This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection (including a beanie, slouch, and infinity scarf), please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

    The fourth pattern in the Malia CAL is a boho-style buttoned cowl! Worked flat, this beautifully-textured piece works great both over a t-shirt or tucked under a winter coat.

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    If you need a little extra help with the pattern, here is a video tutorial, and the free pattern is below!

    Free Printable Tags

    I made some cute printable tags for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting this cowl, a tag just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. Print on cardstock for best results!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA BUTTONED COWL

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 30.5″ long x 8″ tall

    Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: 355 yards of #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Sugared Oats.”

    Gauge: To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    CH17.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 3 buttons (1″ – 1-1/8″)

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    FHDC     (foundation half double crochet – see “Special Stitches”)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:

    Foundation Half Double Crochet (FHDC)
    This is the recommended way of beginning the pattern and is better shown than explained, so please watch the included tutorial video as a guide. There is also an optional classic chain start noted in the pattern, if you would like to do that instead.

    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) A video tutorial is available up in the post, or by clicking here.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    Row 1: FHDC* 108. (*Alternate start: CH109, HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH) (108)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 106 STS. SC in final ST. (108)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (108)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 53 times. SC in final ST. (108)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (108)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 106 STS. SC in final ST. (108)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (108)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 53 times. SC in final ST. (108)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (108)

    Rows 10-25: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 2 more times. (108)

    Rows 26-29: Repeat Rows 2-5. (108)

    Row 30: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 106 STS. SC in final ST. (108)

    Edging (1 side only, optional): CH1, SC in same ST to round corner. Working down the short edge of the scarf, SC in each row (30). SL ST to the 2nd corner, fasten off and weave in all ends.

    Fringe: Cut about 90 9″ long strands of yarn. (I wrap mine around a 9″ cutting board.) With the textured (right) side of the cowl facing up, and the edging (if you chose to use edging) on the left side, start at one bottom corner and attach them in groups of 3 strands every 4 stitches along the entire bottom edge of the cowl. (If you don’t know how to attach fringe, see video tutorial for guidance.)

    Buttons: Attach buttons to bottom of cowl using the diagram shown.

    For further help on button placement and wearing the cowl with buttons fastened, please see the video tutorial (toward the end).

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliabuttonedcowl and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Malia Slouch (2 sizes)

    Malia Slouch (2 sizes)

    This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection (including a beanie, infinity scarf, and buttoned cowl), please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

    The second pattern in the Malia CAL is a slouchy version of the Malia Beanie! As with the beanie, I used a unique blend of the top-down method and the vertical method for constructing this hat, resulting in what I think is the best of both worlds – a cute vertical design and a secure cinched top. It’s a little confusing to explain, but I’ve made a video tutorial for both patterns in case you need a little help! The video tutorial follows the large pattern size, but all you need to do differently for the smaller size is follow the first 3 rounds from the “Teen / Adult Small” pattern and then continue on with the video instructions.

    Free Printable Tags

    I made some cute printable tags for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting this hat, a tag or wrap just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. I included a wraparound label as well as a smaller tag (shown in the photo) that can be attached to a piece of decorative string wrapped around your finished product, by punching a hole through the corner and threading the string through before tying a bow to secure. Print on cardstock for best results!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA SLOUCH (2 SIZES)

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Finished Size: 9.5″ tall x 18.5″ around (teen / adult small), and 9.5″ tall x 20″ around (adult medium / adult large)

    Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: #4 aran weight. Individual yardage listed under each size in the pattern. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Antique Iron.” (See Malia CAL Homepage for substitution suggestions.)

    Gauge: The importance of checking your gauge for this project cannot be understated. Because of the construction of the hat, it is difficult to adjust mid-pattern if you discover it is turning out too large. Even if you typically do not complete gauge checks, I strongly encourage you to do so this time. To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    CH17.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, optional faux fur pom pom

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)
    …..

    Special Stitches:
    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rounds and rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) Click here to view a video tutorial.
    (4) Individual instructions are listed first, followed by seaming instructions at the bottom, which is the same for both sizes.

    SIZE: TEEN / ADULT SMALL

    Finished Size: 9.5″ tall x 18.5″ around
    Yarn Total: 240-260 yards

    To Begin: Make a magic circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 12SC in MC, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (12)

    Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (24)

    Round 3: CH1. 3SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (72)

    At this point you should have a very wavy circle. We are now switching to vertical rows, and working them one by one using the stitches from Round 3.

    Row 1: CH35, turn. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH; row is complete. Being sure that the wrong side of the circle is facing you (because we turned), SL ST to the base of the CH35, then SL ST to the next ST along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 28 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 14 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 28 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 28 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 28 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 14 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 28 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 28 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Rows 10-65: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 7 more times.

    Rows 66-72: Repeat Rows 2-8.

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the seam.

    SIZE: ADULT MEDIUM / LARGE

    Finished Size: 9.5″ tall x 20″ around
    Yarn Total: 260-275 yards

    To Begin: Make a magic circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 14SC in MC, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (14)

    Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (28)

    Round 3: CH1. 3SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (84)

    At this point you should have a very wavy circle. We are now switching to vertical rows, and working them one by one using the stitches from Round 3.

    Row 1: CH35, turn. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH; row is complete. Being sure that the wrong side of the circle is facing you (because we turned), SL ST to the base of the CH35, then SL ST to the next ST along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 28 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 14 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 28 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 28 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 28 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 14 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 28 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 28 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Rows 10-81: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 9 more times

    Rows 82-84: Repeat Rows 2-4

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the seam.

    SEAMING

    Turn hat inside out. Close up the magic circle and weave in that end only. Then, thread your yarn needle onto the long finishing tail and sew the first 6 stitches (the ribbed band) together, stitch by stitch. You can find more details on that step in the video tutorial:

    Once you finish with the ribbed section, sew the rest of the seam up, stitch by stitch, putting your needle through the 3rd loop of the final row of HDCs and across to the corresponding stitch on the other side of the seam. This will ensure that the seam creates a row of visible top loops to match the other 3rd loop rows around the hat. You can find more details on that step in the video tutorial:

    Weave in your tail and cut off the excess. Attach a pom pom (optional.)

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliaslouch, and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Malia Beanie (2 Sizes)

    Malia Beanie (2 Sizes)

    This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection (including a slouchy hat, infinity scarf, and buttoned cowl), please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

    Winter is coming, and that means… hat season! I love hat season, especially on school mornings, because between getting the kindergartener and the first grader ready for school and feeding and dressing the baby, I never have time to do much more than throw my hair up in a pony tail. (Yes, I could wake up earlier, but I value my sleep.) But when it’s cold enough to switch out the hair tie for a hat, a pretty winter beanie adds a little cuteness to the hot mess look, amiright?

    I experimented with this design quite a bit because I knew I wanted it to be worked vertically to achieve the design I had in my head, but honestly, I’m not a huge fan of the work-flat-and-sew-to-cinch method. I’ve used it in a handful of my patterns because it’s the only way I knew how to achieve the vertical design, but sometimes I feel like I can’t close the top securely enough and the cinch often looks a bit unbalanced. So after some thinking, I thought up another method (which I’m sure has been done before by others) to combine my favorite top-down method with a vertical design and I’m really happy with how it turned out. It’s a little confusing to explain, but I’ve made a video tutorial for this pattern in case you need a little help! The video tutorial follows the large pattern size, but all you need to do differently for the smaller size is follow the first 3 rounds from the “Teen / Adult Small” pattern and then continue on with the video instructions.

    Free Printable Tags

    I made some cute printable tags for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting this hat, a tag or wrap just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. I included a wraparound label (shown in the photo) as well as a smaller tag that can be attached to a piece of decorative string wrapped around your finished product, by punching a hole through the corner and threading the string through before tying a bow to secure. Print on cardstock for best results!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA BEANIE (2 SIZES)

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Finished Size: 8.25″ tall x 18.5″ around (teen / adult small), and 8.25″ tall x 20″ around (adult medium / adult large)

    Yarn: #4 aran weight. Individual yardage listed under each size in the pattern. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Faded Porch Swing.”  (See Malia CAL Homepage for substitution suggestions.)

    Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Gauge: The importance of checking your gauge for this project cannot be understated. Because of the construction of the hat, it is difficult to adjust mid-pattern if you discover it is turning out too large. Even if you typically do not complete gauge checks, I strongly encourage you to do so this time. To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    CH17.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, optional faux fur pom pom

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:
    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rounds and rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) Click here to view a video tutorial for this pattern.
    (4) Individual instructions are listed first, followed by seaming instructions at the bottom, which is the same for both sizes.

    SIZE: TEEN / ADULT SMALL

    Finished Size: 8.25″ tall x 18.5″ around
    Yarn Total: 160-175 yards

    To Begin: Make a magic circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 12SC in MC, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (12)

    Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (24)

    Round 3: CH1. 3SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (72)

    At this point you should have a very wavy circle. We are now switching to vertical rows, and working them one by one using the stitches from Round 3.

    Row 1: CH29, turn. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH; row is complete. Being sure that the wrong side of the circle is facing you (because we turned), SL ST to the base of the CH29, then SL ST to the next ST along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 11 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 22 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 22 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 11 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 22 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 22 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Rows 10-65: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 7 more times.

    Rows 66-72: Repeat Rows 2-8.

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the seam.

    SIZE: ADULT MEDIUM / LARGE

    Finished Size: 8.25″ tall x 20″ around
    Yarn Total: 190-210 yards
    Note: This size was originally published as the only available.

    To Begin: Make a magic circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 14SC in MC, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (14)

    Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (28)

    Round 3: CH1. 3SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (84)

    At this point you should have a very wavy circle. We are now switching to vertical rows, and working them one by one using the stitches from Round 3.

    Row 1: CH29, turn. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH; row is complete. Being sure that the wrong side of the circle is facing you (because we turned), SL ST to the base of the CH29, then SL ST to the next ST along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 11 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 22 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 22 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 11 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 22 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 22 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Rows 10-81: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 9 more times

    Rows 82-84: Repeat Rows 2-4

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the seam.

    SEAMING

    Turn hat inside out. Close up the magic circle and weave in that end only. Then, thread your yarn needle onto the long finishing tail and sew the first 6 stitches (the ribbed band) together, stitch by stitch. The following photo is a screenshot from the video tutorial:

    Once you finish with the ribbed section, sew the rest of the seam up, stitch by stitch, putting your needle through the 3rd loop of the final row of HDCs and across to the corresponding stitch on the other side of the seam. This will ensure that the seam creates a row of visible top loops to match the other 3rd loop rows around the hat. The following photo is a screenshot from the video tutorial, with the 3rd loops highlighted:

    Weave in your tail and cut off the excess. Attach a pom pom (optional.)

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliabeanie, and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Malia CAL (Fall 2017 Crochet-Along)

    The Malia CAL is officially over…

    …but the patterns will remain on my blog free for use! I’ve left the original CAL information below.

    Malia Beanie | Malia Slouchy | Malia Infinity Scarf | Malia Buttoned Cowl | Malia Newborn Beanie | Malia Earwarmer | Malia Messy Bun Beanie | Malia Boot Cuffs | Malia Wrist Warmers

    Remember, All Access Passhttps://members.yarnandchai.comholders get ALL of these patterns in ad-free format, plus ALL of my other patterns!

    – – – – – –

    First Things First… What’s a CAL?

    A CAL (Crochet-Along) is an online event where a pattern (or series of patterns) is released over the course of a number of weeks, and a community of crocheters works on it together. The Malia CAL will begin on October 25 and last for 4 weeks.

    I’ve designed this CAL so that you can pick and choose which patterns you want to create based on your own personal style! The first week is hat week, which includes a beanie and a slouchy version of the Malia Hat. The second week is scarf week, which includes an infinity scarf and a buttoned cowl. (The third week is a bonus week, which I’ll talk more about later.) So, you can choose which patterns you want to make… or, make them all! Each pattern from the first 2 weeks will include a video tutorial. All patterns are sized for a teen / adult (with the exception of one of the bonus patterns).

    –

    Here’s the Schedule:

    You’ll find all of the links for the CAL right here as they are released.

    Week 1: Malia Beanie + Malia Slouchy
    Week 2: Malia Infinity Scarf + Malia Buttoned Cowl
    Week 3: BONUS WEEK! Malia Newborn Beanie + Malia Earwarmer + Malia Messy Bun Beanie
    Week 4: BONUS BONUS WEEK! Malia Boot Cuffs + Malia Wrist Warmers

    (What’s Bonus Week, you ask? Well… it’s a week of awesome bonuses, like more patterns for you using the beautiful Malia stitch pattern, plus even more goodies that I can’t reveal yet!)

    –

    Join the CAL Facebook Group

    Life is better together, right? That’s the heart behind a crochet-along, too! If you’re on Facebook and want to join our private group to ask questions, post progress pics, or just meet new friends while you work through the CAL, request your invite by clicking here.

    ––

    Choose Your Yarn

    For these patterns, you’ll want to look for a soft aran weight yarn. Aran is part of the #4 family of yarn weights and is just a tad bit thicker than worsted. The three yarns listed here are my recommendations for this CAL; I’ve gauge-checked all of them and come up with the same results (see later section, “Check Your Gauge”). Of course, you can choose any yarn you want, as long as you can match gauge!

    Rustic Romantic | Yarn Bee
    The absolutely gorgeous yarn you see in my CAL photos is Rustic Romantic by Yarn Bee (a Hobby Lobby brand). As soon as I saw it I was smitten! The colors, though limited, are sophisticated and charming. If you’re into the rustic modern look and you love natural-looking hues, this is a great option. It is 85% acrylic and 15% hemp; the hemp provides those beautiful white flecks running throughout the strands that gives it a weathered look. It is surprisingly soft and warm, with great stitch definition and absolutely charming color names like “Faded Porch Swing” and “Blueberry Bushel.” It is machine washable but lay flat to dry, so if that’s an issue for you, it’s something to consider. Rustic Romantic sells for $5.49 for 228 yards.

    I Love This Yarn | Hobby Lobby
    A staple for Hobby Lobby shoppers, I Love This Yarn is a soft aran available in a huge range of colors, from bright and cheery to soft and subtle. Besides solid colors, it also offers various shades of metallic, tweed, and multis. It has good stitch definition, good drape, and you get 355 yards in a $3.99 skein, making it a great option if you’re budget-conscious. It’s 100% acrylic and machine washable and dryable.

    Vanna’s Choice | Lion Brand
    One of Lion Brand’s most popular yarns, Vanna’s Choice comes in a large selection of colors and is readily available in most large craft stores and online. It has a similar look and feel to Rustic Romantic (minus the hemp) and usually rings in at about $3.99 for 170 yards.

    –

    How Much Yarn Do You Need?

    Because this CAL includes two different hat styles and two different scarf styles to choose from, you’ll need to determine which patterns you want to make in order to know how much yarn you need. Here is the breakdown of each pattern and how much yarn it uses:

    Beanie (Week 1): 200 yards
    Slouchy (Week 1): 260 yards
    Infinity Scarf (Week 2): 580 yards
    Buttoned Cowl (Week 2): 355 yards

    On Week 3 of the CAL (a.k.a. “Bonus Week”) I’ll be revealing a few more patterns that use the same beautiful stitch pattern, but those are a surprise (and we won’t be making them together) so I won’t have yarn totals for those until Week 3. Same for Week 4.

    –

    Check Your Gauge

    Before you jump into these patterns, you need to check your gauge. Why is it so important? Because we all crochet differently! You and I could use the exact same yarn and the exact same hook and the exact same pattern, and mine could come out larger or smaller than yours. It’s not such a big deal for things like scarves and cowls, but for a hat, it’s important. Don’t put all the work into this project only to end up with a hat that is too large or too small!

    The importance of checking your gauge for this project cannot be understated. Because of the construction of the hats, it is difficult to adjust mid-pattern if you discover yours is turning out too large. Even if you typically do not complete gauge checks, I strongly encourage you to do so this time. To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the patterns. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    CH17.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

    Now grab a ruler and measure the square. Is it 4″? Great! Stick with the I (5.5mm) hook. Is it smaller than 4″? You might need to go up a hook size or choose a thicker yarn. Larger than 4″? You might need to go down a hook size or choose a thinner yarn. Once you’ve determined what hook size and yarn will get you the correct gauge, remember it; you’ll use the same hook all throughout this CAL.

    –

    Get Ready, Get Set…

    Now that you’ve chosen which patterns to make, joined the Facebook group, chosen your yarn and checked your gauge, you’re ready to jump into the Malia CAL!

  • Landon Slouch and Scarf (Adult and Child Sizes)

    Landon Slouch and Scarf (Adult and Child Sizes)

    Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample.

    Have you used Lion Brand’s Scarfie yarn yet? It is sooo soft and fluffy. My first experience with it was when I designed the Macchiato Slouch and I always knew I’d come back to it again someday. Now there are even more combos to choose from then there were back then, and I am just obsessed with this Mint & Silver! I paired it with Wool-Ease Gray Heather (for the band of the hat, because I wanted to make sure the entire band was one solid color) and it was a perfect match.

    I designed this set as a part of Lion Brand’s “12 Days of Christmas” promotion, and knew you guys would be excited to have it available in both adult and child sizes. You can even grab the kit on lionbrand.com, which comes with the pattern and enough yarn to make two sets – one for you and one for your mini-me!

    The hat is made up mostly of mini bean stitches, which I love because they give basically the same look as a regular bean stitch but use less yarn.

    The finished products are so fluffy and soft! I love fluffy accessories. Besides the obvious fact that they are soft on your skin, they also tend to lay really nicely. This infinity scarf was so easy to style on my model because of its light, airy feel.

    Can I also give a shoutout to my models? Because seriously, they rocked this shoot. You’d never know they had just met, like, two and a half minutes before this photo. 🙂

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    LANDON SLOUCH AND SCARF (ADULT AND CHILD SIZES)

    Difficulty: Easy

    Hooks: K (6.5mm) and H (5.0mm)

    Yarn:
    3 skeins of Lion Brand Scarfie in “Mint/Silver” (#826-217)
    1 skein of Lion Brand Wool-Ease in “Grey Heather” (#620-151)

    Gauge: With larger hook and Scarfie yarn, 4 increase rounds of HDC = 4” diameter. (Begin first round with 10 HDC in a magic circle, then increase each round for a total of 4 rounds.) Use whatever hook size you need to obtain the correct gauge. This guage can be used for all 4 patterns.

    You’ll Also Need: Yarn needle, scissors, pom maker (optional)

    Abbreviations Used:
    MC     (magic circle – tutorial here)
       ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
       SL ST (slip stitch)
       SK (skip)
       CH (chain)
       SC (single crochet)
       BLO (back loop only)
       MBS (mini bean stitch – see “Special Stitch”)

    Special Stitch – Mini Bean Stitch (MBS):
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through (2 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over, pull through (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 4 loops, chain 1 to close stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of top loops, it counts as 2 stitches in final round counts.)

    Notes:
    (1) Patterns are written in American Standard terms.
    (2) Any CH1s at the beginning of rounds do not count as stitches.
    (3) All patterns are designed in a continuous spiral for a seamless finished look. Do not join, chain up or turn unless instructed.
    (4) For the finished measurements of the hats, height is measured from the bottom of the band to the top of the body, pom not included. Width is measured across the bottom of the body of the hat, at the point where the body and the band meet. (Band of hat is smaller but will stretch to fit.)
    (5) The poms on the hats are optional. You will have more than enough yarn left over to make two poms in either Scarfie (shown on the child-size sample) or Wool-Ease (shown on the adult-size sample).
    (6) Due to the nature of the ombre yarn used, no two hats or scarves will look the same.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    LANDON SLOUCH HAT (TEEN / ADULT SMALL)

    Finished Size: 9” tall x 10” wide
    Yarn:     Lion Brand Scarfie (130 yards) and Wool-Ease (45 yards)

    With larger hook and Scarfie yarn,
    Round 1: 10 HDC in MC. (10)

    Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around. (20)

    Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around. (40)

    Round 4: (2 HDC in each of the next 7 STS, HDC in next ST, 2 HDC in each of the next 7 STS, HDC in next ST, 2 HDC in each of the next 3 STS, HDC in next ST) 2 times. (74)

    Rounds 5-20: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (74)

    Round 21: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (74)

    Switch to smaller hook and Wool-Ease yarn. Fasten off Scarfie yarn.

    Round 22: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (74)

    – – – – – –

    Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to Round 22 (the final round of the hat) with SL STS as we go. If you need a little extra help, click here for a video tutorial on how to add ribbing at the end of a project.

    – – – – – –

    CH9.
    Row 1:     SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 7 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Round 22, the stitch on which your CH9 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Round 22. (8, plus the two slip stitches along Round 22)

    The section we just created, built on the CH9, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 22, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 7 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Round 22. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Round 22)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 22, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

    Rows 5-74: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Round 22.

    Fasten off and use your tail to sew together the gap between the first and last rows of the ribbing, then weave in your ends.

    Optional: Use a large Clover Pom Maker to make a pom pom (or make one by hand) and attach it to the top of the hat.

    LANDON SLOUCH HAT (CHILD)

    Finished Size: 8.5” tall x 9” wide
    Yarn:     Lion Brand Scarfie (105 yards) and Wool-Ease (30 yards)

    With larger hook and Scarfie yarn,
    Round 1:     10 HDC in MC. (10)

    Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around. (20)

    Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around. (40)

    Round 4: 2 HDC in each of the next 2 STS, HDC in each of the next 2 STS. (2 HDC in each of the next 3 STS, HDC in next ST) 4 times. 2 HDC in each of the next 2 STS, HDC in each of the next 2 STS. (2 HDC in each of the next 3 STS, HDC in next ST) 4 times. (68)

    Rounds 5-19: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (68)

    Round 20: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (68)

    Switch to smaller hook and Wool-Ease yarn. Fasten off Scarfie yarn.

    Round 21: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (68)

    – – – – – –

    Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to Round 21 (the final round of the hat) with SL STS as we go. If you need a little extra help, click here for a video tutorial on how to add ribbing at the end of a project.

    – – – – – –

    CH7.
    Row 1:     SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 5 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Round 21, the stitch on which your CH7 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Round 21. (6, plus the two slip stitches along Round 21)

    The section we just created, built on the CH7, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 21, SC in BLO of each of the first 5 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 5 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Round 21. (6, plus the 2 SL STS along Round 21)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 21, SC in BLO of each of the first 5 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)

    Rows 5-68: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Round 21.

    Fasten off and use your tail to sew together the gap between the first and last rows of the ribbing, then weave in your ends.

    Optional: Use a large Clover Pom Maker to make a pom pom (or make one by hand) and attach it to the top of the hat.

    LANDON SCARF (TEEN / ADULT SMALL)

    Finished Size: 6.5” wide x 60” around
    Yarn:     Lion Brand Scarfie (310 yards)
    Notes:
    (1) For this pattern, use the larger of the two hooks (6.5mm, or whichever one you used to complete your gauge swatch).
    (2) Working into the back bump of the starting chain during Round 1 will help to keep the scarf from curling. It is a bit slower than working into one of the top loops, but worth it in the end.

    To Begin: CH192. Join with a SL ST, being careful not to twist the chain. (192)

    Round 1: CH1. Working in the back bumps of the starting chain, MBS in first ST, SK next ST. (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (192)

    Rounds 2-18: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (192)

    Round 19: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. SL ST into the first ST of the round. (192)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

    LANDON SCARF (CHILD)

    Finished Size: 5” wide x 46” around
    Yarn:     Lion Brand Scarfie (180 yards)
    Notes:
    (1) For this pattern, use the larger of the two hooks (6.5mm, or whichever one you used to complete your gauge swatch).
    (2) Working into the back bump of the starting chain during Round 1 will help to keep the scarf from curling. It is a bit slower than working into one of the top loops, but worth it in the end.

    To Begin: CH 148. Join with a SL ST, being careful not to twist the chain. (148)

    Round 1: CH1. Working in the back bumps of the starting chain, MBS in first ST, SK next ST. (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (148)

    Rounds 2-13: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (148)

    Round 14: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. SL ST into the first ST of the round. (148)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #landonslouch and #landonscarf, and tag me @yarnandchai. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Barista Slouch Hat

    Barista Slouch Hat

    Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample.

    It’s official… the Fall ’17/Winter ’18 season has begun and I am sooooooooo excited! Granted I’m a little behind on life being that I spent my summer cuddling an adorable little baby boy instead of prepping my upcoming collection, but whatev. I’m ready to dive in now, and let’s all hope and pray that Henry will start taking longer naps so I can get some things done.

    I’m debuting the season with a hat pattern that I just love. This season I’m experimenting with different shapes of slouch, and this pattern has a rounder, more “droopy” look to it than my patterns from previous seasons. It’s worked from the top-down but uses the faux-cinched method I tend to favor, but amped up a bit. We’re cramming so many stitches into those first few rounds that you might be thinking “yeah right, Rebecca” as you’re getting started, but trust me, just get through those first rounds and it will get easier and the finished look will be so worth it.

    For this pattern I used Lion Brand Yarn’s Vanna’s Style, a #3 weight (not to be confused with Vanna’s Choice, which is a #4 aran). It has beautiful stitch definition and drape which is perfect for this hat.

    My model is rocking this hat with her natural waves, but it would also look gorgeous over cascading curls or even a loose braid.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

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    BARISTA SLOUCH HAT

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    Difficulty: Easyish

    Finished Size: 9.5″ tall x 9″ wide at bottom of hat (when laid flat) and 14″ wide at widest point (when laid flat).

    Hook: G (4.0 mm)

    Yarn: Approximately 290 yards of Vanna’s Style, a #3 light weight yarn by Lion Brand. Sample shown in “Silver”.

    Gauge: 6 increase rounds (beginning with 10 HDC) = 3.75″.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    Round 1: 10HDC in MC; join. (10)
    Round 2: CH1, 2HDC in each ST around, join. (20)
    Round 3: CH1, (2HDC, HDC) around, join. (30)
    Round 4: CH1, (2HDC, HDC, HDC) around, join. (40)
    Round 5: CH1, (2HDC, HDC, HDC, HDC) around, join. (50)
    Round 6: CH1, (2HDC, HDC, HDC, HDC, HDC) around, join. (60)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

    Abbreviations Used:
       MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    BLO (back loop only)
    MBS (mini bean stitch – see “Special Stitch”)

    Special Stitch – Mini Bean Stitch (MBS): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through (2 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over, pull through (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 4 loops, chain 1 to close stitch. (Please note that this CH1 does count as a stitch in the final stitch counts of each round; so each MBS you complete will count for 2 stitches.)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds and do not join or turn unless instructed to do so.
    (3) Any CH1s at the beginning of rounds do not count as stitches and are not included in the stitch count.
    (4) Because of the “chain 1 to close stitch” at the end of the instructions for the MBS, each MBS will count as 2 stitches in the final stitch counts for each round – one for the bean, and one for the CH1.)

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    THE PATTERN

    To begin: Make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).

    Round 1: 16 HDC in MC. (16)

    Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around. (32)

    Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around. (64)

    Round 4: MBS in each ST around. (128)

    Rounds 5-32: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (128)

    Round 33: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to 1st ST of round. (128)

    Round 34: CH1. SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 2 STS. (SC2TOG in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST. (96)

    Round 35-36: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST. (96)

    Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat (Round 36) with SL STS as we go. If you need a little extra help, click here for a video tutorial on how to add ribbing at the end of a project.

    CH9.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 7 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Round 36, the stitch on which your CH9 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Round 36. (8, plus the two slip stitches along Round 36)

    The section we just created, built on the CH9, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 36, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 7 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Round 36. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Round 36)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 36, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

    Rows 5-96: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Round 36.

    Fasten off and use your tail to sew together the first and last rows of the ribbing, then weave in your ends.

  • Classic Beach Bag (Adult & Child Sizes)

    Classic Beach Bag (Adult & Child Sizes)

    Thank you Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this pattern!

    Summer is in full swing here, and we Michiganders work hard to enjoy every sunny day we possibly can since our mitten state is icy cold for half the year.  So when the temperatures heat up, we trade in powdery white snow for sandy white beaches. I may be a little bias, but I think we have some of the most beautiful beaches around. (Here’s my proof!)

    I promised you guys a full-sized beach bag a couple of months ago when I published this little mini beach bag gift card holder. Baby Henry has kept this mama’s hands full, so crocheting time has been really limited these days… but it’s finally here! And let me tell you what, this bag has given me grief. I’ve worked and reworked it to find the best possible construction to deliver you a pattern that is super easy and very durable. But, I think I’ve succeeded!

    A confident beginner could make this bag, easily, and yet it still looks like something you could buy at the surf shop. It has a very classic nautical-style pattern, but with really fun color options thanks to the yarn (Lion Brand’s 24/7 Cotton).  I am absolutely in love with it!

    Oh, and did I mention… I made two sizes! One is perfect for you, and the other is perfect for your mini-me.

    About the Yarn

    24/7 Cotton by Lion Brand Yarn is a worsted-weight, mercerized 100% natural fiber yarn. It has ah-ma-zing color, sheen and stitch definition, and a range of 24 fun shades. There are so many beautiful color combos you could utilize with this beach bag… you might just have to make more than one!

    –

    Don’t let the grommets scare you…

    When I was trying to figure out the sturdiest way to add handles to this bag, I decided to try something I’d never used before – grommets! I took a chance and ordered some from Amazon, and I was so pleased with how easy they were to attach. Now, I am not a DIY girl, as much as I’d like to be. I’ve used a hammer maybe three times in my life. So take it from me… if I can do it, you can do it! And it will make such a huge difference in the sturdiness of your bag. Combined with the rope handles, the grommets take the weight of the bag on themselves, and since they don’t stretch like crocheted fabric does, your bag won’t stretch out the first time you put something in it. Click here to purchase the same grommet set I used. (You’ll get enough grommets for two bags, plus have 2 left over.)

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    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

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    CLASSIC BEACH BAG

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    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 20″ width x 14″ height x 6″ depth (adult size) / 15.5″ width x 12″ height x 6″ depth (child size)

    Hook:  E (3.5mm)

    Yarn: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in 3 different colors. 24/7 Cotton is a worsted-weight, mercerized yarn. Individual sizes and amounts are listed below.

    Adult Size:
    COLOR A (360 yards, or 2 skeins). Sample shown in “Rose.”
    COLOR B (340 yards, or 2 skeins). Sample shown in “White.”
    COLOR C (300 yards, or 2 skeins). Sample shown in “Navy.”

    Child Size:
    COLOR A (310 yards, or 2 skeins). Sample shown in “Aqua.”
    COLOR B (220 yards, or 2 skeins). Sample shown in “White.”
    COLOR C (180 yards, or 1 skein). Sample shown in “Silver.”

    Gauge: 10 rows of 10 SC = 2″ square

    You’ll also need:
    Yarn needle
    Scissors
    3/8″ twisted rope for handles (two 36″ lengths for adult size, or two 30″ lengths for child size – I found mine at Joann Fabrics)
    Size 4 (1/2″ diameter) grommet kit – one beach bag uses 4 grommets (I used this one – it came with 10 grommets and was super easy to use)
    Hammer

    Abbreviations Used:
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1 at the beginning of round does not count as a stitch.
    (3) Both Adult and Child sizes are written out in full below. After that section, you’ll find instructions for shaping the bag and attaching the handles. These instructions are the same for both sizes.
    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    INSTRUCTIONS (ADULT SIZE)

    To begin: With COLOR A, CH192. Join to first CH with a SL ST, being careful to not twist the chain. (Briana K has an awesome video tutorial here for how to do this perfect every time.) (192)

    Rounds 1-24: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 25-28: Attach COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 29-32: Attach COLOR C; drop COLOR B (do not fasten off). CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    From this point until instructed otherwise, you will drop yarn at color changes and pick it back up again when needed. Do not fasten it off.

    Rounds 33-36: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 37-40: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 41-44: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 45-48: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 49-52: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 53-56: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 57-60: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 61-64: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 65-68: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 69-72: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 73-76: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 77-80: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 81-84: Switch to COLOR B; fasten off COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 85-89: Switch to COLOR A; fasten off COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Round 90: CH1. SC in each of the first 30 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 30 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 60 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 30 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 30 STS. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (180 SC + 4 CH3 holes)

    Round 91: CH1. SC in each ST around, putting 3SC in each CH3 space from previous round. (192)

    Rounds 92-94: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Round 95: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Fasten off; weave in all ends.

    INSTRUCTIONS (CHILD SIZE)

    To begin: With COLOR A, CH156. Join to first CH with a SL ST, being careful to not twist the chain. (Briana K has an awesome video tutorial here for how to do this perfect every time.) (156)

    Rounds 1-24: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 25-28: Attach COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 29-32: Attach COLOR C; drop COLOR B (do not fasten off). CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    From this point until instructed otherwise, you will drop yarn at color changes and pick it back up again when needed. Do not fasten it off.

    Rounds 33-36: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 37-40: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 41-44: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 45-48: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 49-52: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 53-56: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 57-60: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 61-64: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 65-68: Switch to COLOR B; fasten off COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 69-73: Switch to COLOR A; fasten off COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Round 74: CH1. SC in each of the first 24 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 48 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (144 SC + 4 CH3 holes)

    Round 75: CH1. SC in each ST around, putting 3SC in each CH3 space from previous round. (156)

    Rounds 76-78: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Round 79: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Fasten off; weave in all ends.

    – – – – – – – – – – –

    ATTACHING GROMMETS (SAME INSTRUCTIONS FOR BOTH BAG SIZES)

    Open your grommet kit (I used this one) and retrieve the following items:

    Turn your bag inside out, and follow the instructions on your grommet kit to add grommets to each of the four holes at the top of the bag. I’ve got 2 important tips for you here…

    Important tip #1: If I had to do it again, I would not have rested the base on the lower layer of fabric as shown in the photo below; beating it with a hammer caused a slight discoloration in the fabric. Not cool. #lessonlearned)
    Important tip #2: When I was reading the reviews for the grommet set before I purchased it, I learned that it’s best to do your hammering on a very hard surface (like your cement garage floor). This worked great for me.

    – – – – – – – – – – –

    SEWING THE BOTTOM (SAME INSTRUCTIONS FOR BOTH BAG SIZES)

    Keeping the bag inside out, lay it flat, lining up the grommets. Use COLOR A (a length about 4x the width of the bag) to sew the bottom of the bag closed, stitch by stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends.

    With the bag still inside out, turn it upside down and position the bottom so that one end lays out in a triangular shape, with the seam centered. Use a ruler and a piece of tape to measure and mark a 5″ line across the corner of the base. Sew a seam across the line (through both layers) with COLOR A. Repeat on the opposite side. This will make the inside of the bag roomy.

    Turn bag right-side out. Here’s what it should look like on the inside:

    And here’s what it should look like on the bottom:

    – – – – – – – – – – –

    ADDING ROPE HANDLES (SAME INSTRUCTIONS FOR BOTH BAG SIZES)

    Take your first rope handle and insert it through one of the grommets, going from the inside of the bag to the outside. Tie a knot near the bottom of the rope on the outside of the bag and pull it tight (you can use your grommet to help by gently but firmly pulling the rope from the inside of the bag, which will pull the knot against the grommet and tighten it up). Then, use good scissors to cut the excess rope about 1/2″ below the knot.

    If your rope looks like mine, it will have a couple strands of thread wrapped tightly around each twist. These are pretty easy to locate by gently pulling on the tips of the yarn. When you find them, pull them away from the yarn right up to the knot. Then use scissors to cut them off at that point. Give the exposed thread a little ruffle with your fingers; this will give your handles that classic weathered tassel look.

    Repeat these instructions with the other end of the same rope (attaching it through the other grommet on the same side of the bag) to complete your first handle. Then, do everything again for the 2nd handle on the other side. Note that you’ll want both handles to be the same length, so be sure to compare them when you’re about to tie your final knot to ensure that the handle sizes match.

    – – – – – – – – – – –

    That’s it – you’re done! Grab your favorite sunglasses and a beach towel and head to your favorite sandy spot in style. And don’t be surprised if someone asks you where you got your gorgeous beach bag!

  • Mini Beach Bag Gift Card Holder

    Mini Beach Bag Gift Card Holder

    Thank you Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this pattern!

    I’m a textbook procrastinator, so with just 4 days left of preschool for the middle monkey, of course I was scrambling this weekend to figure out what to give his teachers. I was also working on a really fun beach bag pattern (to be released soonish), and a couple nights ago the idea for this gift card holder dawned on me as I was working on the other pattern. What says “Summer’s here!” more than a beach bag filled with a beach ball, flip flops and sunglasses?

    So I whipped up this little mini bag and then put together an adorable printable to go with it. (Patterns rarely come together this quickly for me, so I was pretty proud of myself!) I used Lion Brand’s 24/7 Cotton yarn, because its bright colors are so summery.

    I included the phrase “School’s out, summer’s here… thanks for all you’ve done this year!” on the printable. But don’t worry; if you love the gift card holder but don’t have any teachers to buy for this year, you can also download the free printable without the phrase on it!

    Prefer a PDF?

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    MINI BEACH BAG GIFT CARD HOLDER

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 3″ wide at bottom, 4″ wide at top, and 2.5″ tall (not including straps)

    Hook:  E (3.5mm)

    Yarn: Less than 40 yards of #4 medium weight yarn. I used Lion Brand’s 24/7 Cotton in “Aqua” (COLOR A, about 11 yards); “White” (COLOR B, about 13 yards); and “Silver” (COLOR C, about 11 yards).

    Gauge: 10 rows of 10 SC = 2″ square. Starting chain should wrap snuggly around a gift card.

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, tape, and this downloadable insert for teachers or this generic downloadable insert printed on card stock. Starfish charm optional (I found mine at Hobby Lobby)

    Abbreviations Used:
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1 at the beginning of round does not count as a stitch.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    THE PATTERN

    To begin: With COLOR A, leaving a 12″ tail, CH33. Join to first CH with a SL ST, being careful to not twist the chain. (Briana K has an awesome video tutorial here for how to do this perfect every time.) (33)

    Rounds 1-2: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (33)

    Switch to COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A.

    Round 3: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (33)

    Switch to COLOR C (do not fasten off COLOR B).

    Round 4: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (33)

    Switch to COLOR B (do not fasten off COLOR C).

    Round 5: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (33)

    Switch to COLOR C (do not fasten off COLOR B).

    Round 6: CH1. 2SC in same ST. SC in each of the next 16 STS. 2SC in next ST. SC in each of the next 15 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (35)

    Switch to COLOR B (do not fasten off COLOR C).

    Round 7: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (35)

    Switch to COLOR C (do not fasten off COLOR B).

    Round 8: CH1. 2SC in same ST. SC in each of the next 17 STS. 2SC in next ST. SC in each of the next 16 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (37)

    Switch to COLOR B (do not fasten off COLOR C).

    Round 9: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (37)

    Switch to COLOR C (do not fasten off COLOR B).

    Round 10: CH1. 2SC in same ST. SC in each of the next 18 STS. 2SC in next ST. SC in each of the next 17 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (39)

    Switch to COLOR B; fasten off COLOR C.

    Round 11: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (39)

    Switch to COLOR A; fasten off COLOR B.

    Round 12: CH1. 2SC in same ST. SC in each of the next 19 STS. 2SC in next ST. SC in each of the next 18 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (41)

    Round 13: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (41)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends except your starting tail. Turn your bag inside out and lay it flat so that the starting tail is at one end, then use it to sew the bottom together, stitch by stitch. Turn bag right side out.


    Straps

    1. Cut 6 strands of white yarn, each 10″ long. Take 3 of them and tie them together with a knot toward one end (pictured). Do the same with the other 3 strands.

    2. Take one set of strands and tape the knotted end down to something sturdy, then braid the three strands until the braided section measures 5″. Tie another knot to secure the braid. Repeat with the other set of strands.

    3. Lay your bag flat and locate the spaces between the final two rounds (the tiny spaces created by the stitches). Count 7 stitches from the top left edge of the bag and use a crochet hook to draw a knot from one of your braids through that space from the inside of the bag to the outside. Count 7 stitches from the top right edge and do the same with the other end of the same braid. Tie an additional knot over each of the original knots to make them big enough that they won’t slip back through the holes. Trim the excess yarn from each end.

    4. Turn bag over and repeat step 3 with the remaining braid.

    Free Printable

    Don’t forget the adorable printable for your mini beach bag! I’ve created two versions: one specifically for teachers with the saying “School’s out, summer’s here… thanks for all you’ve done this year!” and one blank version in case you want to write your own message or use this for someone other than a teacher.

    Download the Mini Beach Bag Gift Card Holder Insert – for Teachers
    Download the Mini Beach Bag Gift Card Holder Insert – Generic

    Cut out your insert, add your gift card, stuff it in your beach bag, and you’re done! I just know that the recipient will get a kick out of this adorable and reusable gift card holder.