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Bean Stitch Accent Pillow

Two things I’m loving this spring: the Bean Stitch, and accent pillows!

So, to make this free pattern I combined the Bean Stitch with a classic ribbing to create this beautiful pillow. Vanna’s Choice in “Linen” and “Graphite” come together to give it that rustic-modern look that is always a winner to me.

Once you get the hang of the Bean Stitch, this pillow works up quick. I made it in two days while watching Nashville reruns during my son’s naps… and he’s a catnapper (UGH), so I think that’s pretty impressive! (Any of you other mamas who’ve had catnappers, I know you’re feeling my pain right now. Seriously, my laundry piles are sky high and we’ve had pizza for dinner one too many times this month. Good thing he’s cute!)

Scroll down for the free pattern, or Klik hier voor de Nederlandse vertaling (Dutch translation). (Nederlandse vertaling gemaakt door Rita van Someren voor Haken voor Iedereen en Summerday’s Creations. Dit patroon mag niet in andere groepen, websites, blogs etc. gedeeld worden.)

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BEAN STITCH ACCENT PILLOW

Level: Easyish

Size: 11.5″ x 11.5″ (stretches to fit a 12″ square pillow insert)

Hooks: I (5.5mm) and H (5.0mm)

Yarn: I used about 275 yards of Vanna’s Choice (from Lion Brand), a #4 aran weight yarn. The breakdown is as follows:

COLOR A (ribbing): Vanna’s Choice “Linen” (about 75 yards)
COLOR B (main section): Vanna’s Choice “Graphite” (about 200 yards)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, 12″ pillow insert

Gauge: Your 15 rows of ribbing (as instructed in the “first ribbing” section of the pattern) should measure about 4″ unstretched.

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
BLO (back loops only)

Special Stitch:

Bean Stitch – Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(3) Make 2.
(4) Each side of the pillow is worked in one piece (with color changes). In other words, the second ribbing section is not created and sewn on separately. Once both sides of the pillow are complete, you will follow the instructions to sew them together with your pillow insert inside.
(5) A Dutch translation is available here. Nederlandse vertaling gemaakt door Rita van Someren voor Haken voor Iedereen en Summerday’s Creations. Dit patroon mag niet in andere groepen, websites, blogs etc. gedeeld worden.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

SECTION 1: FIRST RIBBING

To begin: With larger hook and COLOR A, CH9.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)

Rows 2-40: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

– – – – – – – – –

SECTION 2: BODY OF PILLOW

Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly down the long edge of the ribbing, putting 1SC in each ribbing row (each peak and each valley). (40)

Switch to COLOR B, fasten off previous color.

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (40)

Note: At this point we will begin using the Bean Stitch. The bulkiness of this stitch might cause you to unintentionally loosen your tension significantly. To rectify this, you can switch to a smaller hook size. The ribbing will stretch around the pillow so it is not imperative that your bean stitch rows be exactly the same length as your strip of ribbing, but you will want to measure a bean stitch row every so often to make sure you aren’t crocheting the beans so loosely that the length is more than 11.5″. If it is, you’ll want to lower your hook size even more.

Rows 3-22: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, BEAN STITCH in next ST. (SK next ST, BEAN STITCH in next ST) across. (40, or 20 bean stitches)

Note: If you switched to a lower hook size for rows 3-22, you can switch back to your first hook size now.

Row 23: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (40)

Switch to COLOR A, fasten off previous color.

Row 24: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (40)

– – – – – – – – –

SECTION 3: LAST RIBBING

In this section, we will be creating the second ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the body as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 24” quite a bit; that’s the last row of the body of the pillow we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to.

With hook still in your last stitch from Row 24, CH9.

Last Ribbing, Row 1: Turn work and SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH (Fig. A). SL ST in the first SC of Row 24, then SL ST in the next SC of Row 24 as well (Fig. B). (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 24)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 24 (Fig. C), SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the ribbing. SC in final ST (Fig. D). (8)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST of ribbing. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS of ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Row 24 (Fig. E). (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 24)

Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 24, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the ribbing. SC in final ST. (8)

Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Row 24 (See Fig. F for a progress photo). You should end up with 40 rows of ribbing, which is the number of stitches in Row 2

Do not fasten off, but do take a moment to weave in your other ends, then proceed to Edging.

– – – – – – – – –

EDGING

We need to put 40 STS along each edge of our square, and to keep it looking really nice, we’re going to edge each section in its own color. Continuing with COLOR A, CH1. SC evenly down the long edge of the ribbing, putting 1SC in each ribbing row (each peak and each valley) for 40 SC. CH1 to round the corner, then proceed to next edge. SC in each of the first 9 STS (8 ribbing stitches + Row 1 of the body). Attach COLOR B (Fig. G). (Note: You can decide if you want to carry the color you aren’t using behind the current color, or fasten it off and reattach it at the next appropriate section. I carried mine.) SC along the BEAN STITCH section of the pillow, putting 1SC in each BEAN STITCH row for a total of 20 SC. SC in the final row of COLOR B (Row 23, the row of single crochet). Switch to COLOR A. Complete 9 more SC to finish the edge, then CH1 to round the corner. Repeat the process for edges 3 & 4, then join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

– – – – – – – – –

SEWING THEM TOGETHER

Keeping your pillow insert handy, hold the two piece together exactly how you want them to be arranged on the pillow. Pick a spot on the edging that is the beginning of a COLOR A section, and attach COLOR A through the same stitch on both pieces (Fig. H). CH1, then SL ST evenly through both layers around the entire COLOR A section (Fig. I), putting (SC, CH1, SC) in each corner. When you come to the COLOR B section, attach COLOR B and fasten off COLOR A (or carry it along if you prefer) and continue. Once you’ve completed about 3/4 of the perimeter of the pillow, stuff your pillow insert inside (Fig. J). Continue to SC the rest of the way around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. Fasten off and weave in ends.

April 29, 2017
Spring Bean Cowl

Thank you Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this pattern!

I had the opportunity to try the new Mandala yarn from Lion Brand and I am sooooo excited about it! If you aren’t familiar with it yet, it’s Lion Brand’s take on the trendy yarn cakes that have taken the crochet world by storm recently. I knew I was going to love Mandala as soon as I heard that it was a #3 light yarn – that immediately set it apart in my mind from all the other versions. And the colors!

Not only are there 16 beautiful color schemes to choose from, but the gradient effect they give is the best I’ve seen in these popular cakes. While not a true gradient, the creators of Mandala yarn were very intentional about their color changes. Instead of 3 or 4 abrupt color jumps, Mandala utilizes light and dark shades of the same color to gradually change from one color to the next. For example, in “Genie” (the sample with the green/white/gray colorway), the yarn started as a dark gray, then switched to medium gray, to grayish-green, to green, to light green, to even lighter green, to white, to lightest gray, to medium gray, and finally on back to the dark gray it began with. What a difference that makes in the overall look!

I decided that a nice simple textured project would be perfect for showing off the pretty colors of this yarn. I’ve been playing with the bean stitch lately, so that’s what I used. I don’t know exactly why this stitch got its name, but I think it looks like an espresso bean, and coffee-related things always make me happy.

I also worked this cowl up in two other fun colors – Sphinx (left) and Chamera (right). Mandala yarn definitely has something for everyone!

What’s really great about this pattern is that it uses all of your Mandala cake without leaving any wasted yarn. That’s always a win for me (and for my overflowing yarn shelf)!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

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SPRING BEAN COWL

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 29″ around x 16″ tall

Hook: H (5.0mm)

Yarn: 1 full cake of Lion Brand Mandala (or about 590 yards of your favorite #3 light yarn from Lion Brand). Sample is shown in “Genie”.

Gauge: 14 rows of 7 bean stitches = 4″ square. Or, your starting chain should measure about 27-28″.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)

Special Stitch:
Bean Stitch – Completed, this stitch actually covers the ground of two stitches. Here’s how you do it:

Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch, and skip the next stitch. (You will skip the next stitch every time you do a bean stitch.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of round does not count as a stitch.
(3) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round (spiral). Do notjoin, turn or chain except where instructed.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

Fringe (optional)
Before we make a single stitch, we’re going to cut our fringe. This enables us to have enough yarn for the fringe while still using up every yard of the Mandala cake for the pattern. Since we want our fringe to blend right into the gradient of the pattern, carefully remove the label and find the end of the yarn. (We’ll be pulling from the center while we crochet, so the bottom of the cowl will be the end you find along the outside wall of the cake). Handle your cake with care so that you can slip that label back on it when you’re done.

Find something in your home that is approximately 9″ wide – I used a 9″ cutting board. Wrap the yarn all the way around the object 55 times, keeping it taught, but not pulling super tight (Figure 1). Cut once at the halfway point (Figure 2). Carefully gather the strands in your hand and fold them in half, then cut again at the halfway point (figure 3). You should now have about 110 pieces of fringe. (We only need 100, but usually a few of them end up too short.) Carefully replace the label on your yarn cake, and proceed to the pattern.

For the pattern, use the beginning of the yarn from the center of the yarn cake.

To begin: CH100. Join to first CH with a SL ST, being careful to not twist the chain. (Briana K has an awesome video tutorial here for how to do this perfect every time.) (100)

Round 1: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Do not join. (100)

Round 2: Do not chain. Complete a bean stitch in the first SC from the previous round (see “Special Stitch” for instructions). Bean stitch around. (100, or 50 bean stitches)

Rounds 3-52 (or until you almost run out of yarn): Bean Stitch around. (100, or 50 bean stitches)

To finish: After your last completed bean stitch, SC in next ST and SL ST in next ST. Fasten off and weave in ends. In groups of 4 strands, attach fringe every 4 stitches (every other bean).

March 17, 2017
Henry’s Accent Pillow

When I was choosing the theme for my newest little monkey’s nursery, I fell in love with this gorgeous navy, gray and green bedding set. In the spirit of keeping things simple and inexpensive, I bought the bed skirt and some off-brand coordinating sheets and changing pad covers. I wanted to add an accent pillow for the rocker to help tie everything together, but the pillow that came with the set was $52.

FIFTY-TWO DOLLARS.

It was really cute, but who has that much money to spend on a decorative pillow? So instead, after making Henry’s Baby Blanket in his nursery colors, I decided to just make a coordinating pillow. I’m giving you the pattern for it today!

As you can see, the pillow only includes 2 color blocks (as opposed to Henry’s Baby Blanket, which uses 3 different colors of blocks). There just wasn’t room for 3 of them on a 12″ pillow without them being reeeaaally skinny. I opted to leave out the green color simply because I figure that when Henry grows out of his nursery, the pillow will be easier to coordinate with a different decor later if it doesn’t have the green in it.

So, if you’re making the baby blanket for someone in their chosen nursery colors, now you can blow them away with a coordinating accent pillow!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

HENRY’S ACCENT PILLOW

Level: Easyish

Size: 11″ x 11″ (stretches to fit a 12″ square pillow insert)

Hook: H (5.0mm)

Yarn: I used about 325 yards of Cascade Longwood (from Jimmy Beans Wool), a lighter #4 worsted weight yarn. Here’s my breakdown, and the colors as assigned in the pattern:

COLOR A (White): Cascade Longwood – 01 White (about 135 yards)
COLOR B (Gray): Cascade Longwood – 02 Frost Gray (about 95 yards)
COLOR C (Navy): Cascade Longwood – 40 Midnight (about 95 yards)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, 12″ pillow insert

Gauge: 11 rows of ribbing (as instructed in the “first ribbing” section of the pattern) should measure 2.5″.

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
BLO (back loops only)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(3) Pillow is worked in one piece (with color changes). In other words, the ribbing at the bottom is not created and sewn on separately.
(4) You need to make 2. I switched the colors for the color block sections on the second side so that the sides of the pillow would be slightly different (on one side, the herringbone section is gray and the SC+HDC combo section is navy, and vice versa on the other side).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

SECTION 1: FIRST RIBBING

To begin: With COLOR A (white), CH9.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)

Rows 2-48: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each ST across. (8)

– – – – – – – – –

SECTION 2: BODY OF PILLOW

Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly down the long edge of the ribbing, putting 1SC in each ribbing row (each peak and each valley). (48)

Switch to COLOR B (gray), fasten off previous color.

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (48)

Rows 3-12: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (48)

Row 13: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (48)

Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

Rows 14-15: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (48)

Switch to COLOR C (navy), fasten off previous color.

Row 16: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (48)

Rows 17-26: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (48)

Row 27: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (48)

Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

Row 28: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (48)

– – – – – – – – –

SECTION 3: LAST RIBBING

In this section, we will be creating the second ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the body as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 28” quite a bit; that’s the last row of the body of the pillow we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to.

With hook still in your last stitch from Row 28, CH9.

Last Ribbing, Row 1: Turn work and SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. SL ST in the first SC of Row 28, then SL ST in the next SC of Row 28 as well. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 28)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 28, SC in BLO of each of the 8 STS of the ribbing to create another row of ribbing. (8)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each of the 8 STS of the ribbing to create another row of ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Row 28. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 28)

Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 28, SC in BLO of each of the 8 STS of the ribbing to create another row of ribbing. (8)

Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Row 28. (You should end up with 48 rows of ribbing, which is the number of stitches in Row 28).

– – – – – – – – –

EDGING

Explanation: We need to put a SC edging around the entire pillow. Ideally, we want this to be a perfect square, so we need to make sure that we are putting 48 stitches along each side. The sides with the ribbing are easy; there are 48 rows of ribbing, so we’ll just put 1 stitch in each ribbing row (each peak and each valley). The other two sides are comprised of 44 rows (28 rows in the body + 8 stitches in each ribbing section), so we need to make sure we’re adding 4 stitches to get to 48. To do that, we’ll put 1 SC in each row of the pattern (including one in each of the 8 ribbing stitches) except for the color blocks. The color blocks are each 12 rows tall, so we’re going to put 14 stitches along each color block (just eyeball it the best you can). To get around corners, we’ll simply chain 1.

Here’s a visual:

So, to do this, keep your hook in the final stitch you completed in the second ribbing section. CH1, and SC evenly around the entire piece according to the directions above. When you get back to the beginning, join with a SL ST to the first SC you made.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

– – – – – – – – –

SEWING THEM TOGETHER

Keeping your pillow insert handy, hold the two piece together exactly how you want them to be arranged on the pillow. Pick a spot on the edging and join COLOR A through the same stitch on both pieces. CH1, then SC evenly through both layers around the entire pillow, putting (SC, CH1, SC) in each corner. Once you’ve completed about 3/4 of the perimeter, stuff your pillow insert inside. Continue to SC the rest of the way around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. Fasten off and weave in ends.

March 3, 2017
Comfy Squares Buttoned Cowl

I love buttoned cowls! I already have 3 on the blog (the Sparkly, the Apple Crisp and the Herringbone Buttoned Cowls), but I’ve been wanting to do a “comfy squares” version for a while. It seemed like a simple project for easing back into pattern designing after my little newborn-snuggles-filled hiatus, so on Henry’s first trip with me to the yarn store, we picked up a few skeins of Lion Brand’s Wool-Ease.

(Henry was a little overwhelmed by all the choices.)

I haven’t used this yarn much at all, but now that I’m reminded of what a nice drape it has, I’m definitely going to be using it more often!

I also picked up these cute wooden buttons. They’re 1-1/8″, and you’ll need two of them in your favorite style.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

COMFY SQUARES BUTTONED COWL

Difficulty: Easyish

Finished Size: 32″ wide x 13.5″ tall (when laid flat)

Hook: H (5.0mm)

Yarn: About 470 yards of Wool-Ease yarn by Lion Brand (that’s less than 3 skeins). Wool-Ease is a #4 worsted yarn, and the sample is shown in “Natural Heather”.

Gauge: The first 8 rows of the pattern (the ribbing) should measure 2.25″ square.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 2 buttons (1 1/8″), sewing needle, and thread to match yarn color.

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
BLO (back loops only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) The pattern is divided into 3 parts: the Top Band, the Body, and the Side Band. The pattern as a whole is worked in one piece (there is no sewing at the end).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

Part 1: Top Band

To begin: CH9.

Top Band, Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)

Rows 2-121: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Row 122 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (6 + CH2)

Row 123: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. 2SC in CH2 space. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Rows 124-125: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Part 2: Body
(Note that for ease of row counting, we are referring to the next row as “Row 1” instead of “Row 126”.)

Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly down the long edge of the piece, putting 1SC in each row. (125)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 57 times; 9 STS remain unworked (and will remain so for the remainder of Part 2). (116)

Rows 3-44: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (116)

Note: At this point, you should be on the same side of the cowl as the buttonhole we made back in Row 122 of the Top Band. If you’re on the opposite side you probably miscounted something, but it’s no big deal; just do one more row to get yourself to where you need to be.

Row 45: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly up the side of the cowl, working toward the buttonhole, putting 1SC in each row until you reach the inner corner where the top band and the body meet. (43 SC)

Part 3: Side Band
(Remember back in Row 2 of the body, when we left 9 stitches unworked? We’re going to be working in those now.)

Side Band, Row 1 (highlighted in yellow in the photo below): SL ST to the closest unworked ST from Row 2 of the body section. CH1. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 unworked STS. SC in both loops of the final unworked ST. (8 SC)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Row 45 of the body. (8, + the 2 SL STS along Row 45)

Row 3: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Rows 4-21: Repeat rows 2-3. (8)

Row 22 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 3 STS. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Row 45 of the body. (6SC + CH2 buttonhole, + the 2 SL STS along Row 45)

Row 23: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. 2SC in CH2 space. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Rows 24-43: Repeat rows 2-3. (8)

Row 44: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in the final ST of Row 45 of the body. (8, + 1 SL ST along Row 45)

Edging: CH1, turn. SC evenly around the entire piece, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SC.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Buttons: Lay your cowl flat, with the corner buttonhole at the top left corner. Your first button should be sewn 1.25″ from the bottom edge and 1.25″ from the right edge; your second button should be sewn in line with the first button, 1.25″ from the bottom edge and 7″ from the right edge.

To Wear:

It can feel a bit tricky at first! Start by putting it around your neck with the buttonhole on your left, and the Top Band at the top. The button that is NOT in the corner is the button that will go through the top buttonhole. Once you’ve joined those together, you can slip the corner button through the second buttonhole, then tuck the extra fabric under the cowl. If you need a little extra help, watch this video of the Sparkly Buttoned Cowl (it’s the same style of cowl):

February 24, 2017
Annabelle Slouch Hat

Thank you to Chandi at Expression Fiber Arts for providing the yarn for this sample!

This season has been all about stepping out of my comfort zone with my yarn choices. One thing I’ve never done, until now, is get my hands on hand-dyed yarn. But when Expression Fiber Arts showed up on my Facebook feed one day, I was captivated by the gorgeousness of the yarn. I knew I had to try it! Chandi was gracious enough to send me some Superwash Merino Silk Pearlescent Worsted to play with, and there are a few things I noticed right away when I held it in my hands:

1. “Pearlescent” is a perfect description for this yarn. I wondered, when I saw the photos on the web site, if it really would look as shiny in real life. It does! And while cheaper yarns tend to sacrifice stitch definition for sheen, this yarn doesn’t at all.

2. It’s soft! Like, super soft. But sturdy.

3. The colors are incredible. I chose a colorway that isn’t available anymore (I think I grabbed the last one, sorry!) that is a mixture of the palest pink and icy blue, but if you look on the web site, you’ll see that there are plenty of totally gorgeous colorways to choose from!

Now, you know me; I love my big box store yarns, and they’re what I typically use; because not only am I on a budget, but I know many of you are, too. But, I also know that there is a whole world of absolutely stunning yarns out there that are worth exploring, especially for those super special projects. Don’t be afraid to branch out; you might just discover something beautiful!

After I finished the pattern for this hat, I felt like it needed a little contrast. So, I added a pom pom with some white unlabeled yarn from my stash. The pom pom is totally optional and is not included in the yardage count.

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ANNABELLE SLOUCH HAT

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 9″ tall x 9.5″ wide (when laid flat)

Hook: I (5.50mm) and G (4.25mm)

Yarn: Approximately 185 yards (not including optional pom pom) of Superwash Merino Silk Pearlescent Worsted, a #4 weight medium yarn by Expression Fiber Arts.

Gauge: With larger hook, 16 rows of 8 (skip 1 ST, SC+HDC in next ST) combos = 4″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put 1 SC and 1 HDC in the same ST)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds and do not join or turn unless instructed to do so.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: With larger hook, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).

Round 1: 10 HDC in MC. (10)

Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around. (20)

Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around. (40)

Round 4: 2 HDC in each ST around. (80)

Round 5: (SC+HDC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (80)

Rounds 6-26: Repeat Round 5.

Round 27: (SC+HDC in next ST, SK next ST) 39 times; 2 STS remain. SC in next ST; SL ST next (final) ST. (80)

Round 28: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (80)

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Switch to G Hook.

Row 1: CH7. SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in remaining 5 CHS. SL ST in next 2 SCs of Round 28. (6, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SL ST in next 2 SCs of Round 28. (6, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (80 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends.

Attach pom pom (optional).

February 14, 2017
Henry’s Baby Blanket

I am so excited to finally show you my newest little monkey’s baby blanket!

At the time I’m writing up this blog post, I’m 38 weeks along (although when it gets published, Baby Henry will already be born). I can feel him kicking around inside and I get the feeling he’s just as anxious to be born as I am to hold him in my arms.

For Henry’s blanket, I chose one of my favorite yarns, Cascade Longwood. It has a beautiful stitch definition that I knew would be important in a textured blanket like this. This definitely turned out to be a heavy, warm blanket, perfect for draping over the carseat of a winter baby.

When I started the blanket, I knew that I wanted to use ribbing for the ends to give it a nice finished, modern look. I started out intending to do the entire body of the blanket in herringbone half double crochet, but once I got through the first color block, I couldn’t let go of the nagging feeling that it needed a little more interest. So on a whim, I switched to one of my other favorite stitches, the SC+HDC combo for the 2nd color block. I loved the contrast between the blocks (and how it allowed me to change stitches just when I started getting bored), so I went with it! You can see the different textures – ribbing, herringbone, and SC+HDC – in the photo below.

I think this blanket would make a gorgeous, modern statement for a boy or a girl, depending on the colors you pick.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
UPDATE: He’s here!

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

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HENRY’S BABY BLANKET

Level: Easyish

Size: Blanket measures 30″x38″. Adjustment instructions are given in Notes section.

Hook: H (5.0mm)

Yarn: I used about 1,330 yards of Cascade Longwood (from Jimmy Beans Wool), but any #4 worsted weight yarn will work. Here’s my breakdown, and the colors as assigned in the pattern:

COLOR A (White): Cascade Longwood – 01 White (about 220 yards, or <2 skeins)
COLOR B (Navy): Cascade Longwood – 40 Midnight (about 370 yards, or almost 2 full skeins)
COLOR C (Gray): Cascade Longwood – 02 Frost Gray (about 370 yards, or almost 2 full skeins)
COLOR D (Green): Cascade Longwood – 18 Green Spruce – discontinued (about 370 yards, or almost 2 full skeins)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Gauge: Not super important, but 14 rows of 16 HHDC = 4″.

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
BLO (back loops only)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(3) To adjust the width of your blanket, add or subtract rows from the first ribbing section of the pattern (just be sure to end up with an even number of ribs). To adjust the length of your blanket, you can add/subtract more blocks of color, or make each block taller/shorter.
(4) Blanket is worked in one piece (except for color changes). In other words, the ribbing at the bottom is not created and sewn on separately.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

SECTION 1: TOP RIBBING

To begin: With COLOR A (white), CH9.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each ST across. (8)

Rows 3-120 (or until ribbing measures about 30″ long, but keep it an even number): CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each ST across. (8)

– – – – – – – – –

SECTION 2: BODY OF BLANKET

The body of the blanket is divided into 6 color blocks which alternate between blocks of Herringbone HDC and blocks of SC+HDC combos. Each color block is separated by a thin, 2-row block of white.

Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly down the long edge of the ribbing, putting 1SC in each ribbing row (each peak and each valley). It is important to end with an even number of stitches in this row. (120)

Switch to COLOR B (navy), fasten off previous color.

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Rows 3-18: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (120)

Row 19: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

Rows 20-21: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR C (gray), fasten off previous color.

Row 22: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Rows 23-40: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (120)

Row 41: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

Rows 42-43: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR D (green), fasten off previous color.

Row 44: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Rows 45-60: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (120)

Row 61: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

Rows 62-63: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR B (navy), fasten off previous color.

Row 64: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Rows 65-82: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (120)

Row 83: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

Rows 84-85: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR C (gray), fasten off previous color.

Row 86: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Rows 87-102: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (120)

Row 103: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

Rows 104-105: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR D (green), fasten off previous color.

Row 106: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Rows 107-124: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (120)

Row 125: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

Row 126: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

– – – – – – – – –

SECTION 3: BOTTOM RIBBING

In this section, we will be creating the bottom ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the body as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 126” quite a bit; that’s the last row of the body of the blanket we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to.

CH9.

Bottom Ribbing, Row 1: Turn work and SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. SL ST in the first SC of Row 126, then SL ST in the next SC of Row 126 as well. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 126)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 126, SC in BLO of each of the 8 STS of the ribbing to create another row of ribbing. (8)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each of the 8 STS of the ribbing to create another row of ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Row 126. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 126)

Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 126, SC in BLO of each of the 8 STS of the ribbing to create another row of ribbing. (8)

Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Row 126. (You should end up with 120 rows of ribbing, which is the number of stitches in Row 126).

Fasten off and weave in ends.

January 3, 2017
Caroline Cowl

I don’t know about you, but the closer I get to Christmas, the more I tend to start using chunkier yarns. It’s not just because it’s getting colder outside; it’s also because bulky yarn works up faster, and we have a deadline, people!

So if you have someone on your Christmas list who loves cozy accessories, here’s an easy cowl pattern that uses one of my favorite stitches and Woolspun yarn from Lion Brand. (It’s the same yarn, and color, I used in the Rustic Slouch & Infinity Scarf set.)

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CAROLINE COWL

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 28″ around x 11″ tall

Hook: N (9.00mm)

Yarn: About 240 yards (2 skeins) of Lion Brand Woolspun, a bulky #5 yarn.

Gauge: 10 rows of 5 (SK1, SC+HDC in 1) combos = 4″ (see “Abbreviations” below for explanation of SC+HDC)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 5 buttons (1″)

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a SC and an HDC in the same stitch)
BLO (back loops only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) The buttons are decorative (non-functional).
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: CH6.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (5)

Rows 2-70: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each ST across. (5)

Row 71: CH1; do not turn. Working down the long edge now, put 1 SC in each row. (70)

Row 72-92: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (70)

Edging: CH1, turn. SC evenly around the entire cowl, putting (SC, CH1, SC) in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SC.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Buttons
Overlap the two shorter sides of the cowl by about 1″, and use pins to hold it in place. Place and sew 5 buttons evenly spaced down the edge, being sure to sew through both layers.

December 10, 2016
Elena Slouch

November is coming to a close, and yesterday during our family Thanksgiving at my parent’s house, I was able to snatch my nieces up for one last photo shoot for the remaining patterns in the Little Monkeys Crochet Fall 2016 collection. (Speaking of thankfulness – I am so thankful for those girls! They are beautiful inside and out, and they’re always willing to play along when I need something photographed.)

This slouch hat pattern might just have stolen the top spot as my favorite pattern of the season. The combination of the lightweight yarn in the perfect neutral color, the rustic buttons, and the faux fur pom made it all come together so well. This hat is a bit more unique than all of my previous slouchy releases in the way it’s built, so it was a fun challenge to figure out the best way to write it all out for you.

As you may have guessed if you’ve been following me for a while, I used Cascade Yarns’ Longwood Sport for this pattern. It’s probably safe to say I’m addicted to this yarn, because whenever I finish a pattern with it, if I have some left over, I immediately start dreaming up a new pattern with the remaining yarn knowing full well that I’ll have to go order more in order to finish it. It’s a vicious cycle, folks, and I can’t escape it, and I don’t really want to. (I buy mine from Jimmy Beans Wool because their shipping prices rock.)

By now you might be asking, hey Rebecca, is that a matching scarf I see in your photos? Why yes, it is! Click here to view the Elena Scarf in its entirety and make one for yourself to go with your brand new slouch.

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ELENA SLOUCH

Difficulty: Easyish

Finished Size: 9.5″ tall x 9.5″ wide (when laid flat)

Hooks: H (5.00mm) and G (4.25mm)

Yarn: Approximately 265 yards of Cascade Yarns’ Longwood Sport (that’s just about a full skein). Longwood Sport is a #3 light yarn, and the color shown on the sample is “Oatmeal.”

Gauge: With larger hook, 9 rows of 5 (SK 1, SC+HDC in next) combos = 2″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 3/4″ buttons (4), faux fur pom pom (optional; mine is from Premier Yarns in “Otter”), needle and thread

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle – view my tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put 1 SC and 1 HDC in the same ST)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) I do not currently have an adaptation for a worsted weight version of this pattern.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: Using larger hook, create a Magic Circle; CH1.

Round 1: 10HDC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first HDC. (10)

Round 2: CH1. 2HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first HDC. (20)

Round 3: CH1. 2HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first HDC. (40)

Round 4: CH1. 2HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first HDC. (80)

Round 5: CH1. 2HDC in first ST, HDC in each of the next 3 STS. (2HDC in next ST, HDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first HDC. (100)

We are now switching to turned rows.

Row 6: CH5, turn. SC+HDC in 3rd CH from hook. SK next CH. SC+HDC in 5th (final) CH. We are now going to begin working around the hat. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. (104)

Row 7: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. (104)

Rows 8-30: Repeat Row 7. (104)

Note: At the end of Row 30, your hook should be on the end of the hat that does not have the extra stitches created by the CH5 from Row 6.

Row 31: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST. Place a stitch marker in the stitch you just made (the 4th stitch of the row); we’ll reference it in the next row. Continue to (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. (104)

Round 32: CH1, turn. Lay the inner edges of the hat so that they overlap, with your hook lined up with the stitch marker from Row 31, placing the edge that has the additional stitches (created by the CH5 from Row 6) underneath the opposite edge. Insert your hook into the first ST and the stitch that we marked with a stitch marker in the previous row (see photo below); make an SC in all 4 loops. Continuing to line up the overlapping stitches, SC in both layers of each of the next 3 STS. You have now sealed the bottom edge of the overlapping pieces together. Continue to SC in each ST around the rest of the hat. Join with a SL ST to first SC. (100)

Creating the Band

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to Round 32 of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Switch to G (4.25mm) hook.

Row 1: CH7. SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in remaining 5 CHS. SL ST along the next 2 STS of Round 32 of the hat. (6, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SL ST along the next 2 STS of Round 32 of the hat. (6, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (100 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to carefully sew the first and last rows of the band together. Weave in all ends.

Buttons
Where the two edges of the hat meet and overlap, use a few ball point pins to secure them in place. Then, place and sew your buttons along the edge, being sure to position them so that your needle goes through both layers, sewing them together; when you remove the ball point pins, you want the buttons to hold the hat together on their own.

Attach your pom pom if desired. Done!

November 25, 2016
Elena Scarf

So I was looking back through all of my patterns the other day and realizing that, for whatever reason, I’ve never designed a regular, classic scarf. I’ve always done infinity scarves! It’s probably because I love to wear them; they are just so easy.

When I got the idea for this scarf, I originally intended it to be an infinity scarf, too. I was going to seam it up at the end, add some buttons, and maybe even add some fringe all the way around. But the longer I worked on it, the more I started to think, this should be a classic scarf. It has this amazing texture, and when I would double-wrap it around my neck, all that gorgeous texture just sort of got lost in the folds. But when I draped it once around my neck and let it hang, it just looked right.

So, here is yet another instance this season when I’m branching out of my “norm” and doing something different than what I’ve always done. I hope you love the finished product as much as I do! This scarf has so many ways it can be worn, and here are a few (my favorite is the Figure 8):

On Using A Different Yarn Weight

Every time I design a pattern with #3 light yarn, someone inevitably asks how to adapt the pattern for #4 worsted. I totally get it; I crocheted for at least a year or two before I ventured into anything less than #4. While I think the lighter yarn really contributes to the texture of this pattern (and, shoutout to the newbies: #3 yarn is not as scary as you think it is), it really wouldn’t be that difficult to adapt it for #4 yarn, or even bulky or super bulky yarn. You just need to make the body of the scarf about 65″ long and repeat the rows until it is 7″ wide. Then, when you add your ribbing, chain enough to add a 2.5″ ribbing section to each end. I can’t give you exact stitch / row counts, nor can I tell you how much the yardage would be, but feel free to adapt it as you see fit. (That’s my nice way of saying that if you deviate from the pattern, you’re on your own.) 🙂

And since I loved the finished look of this scarf so much, I knew it needed to be a set. Click here to view the pattern for the matching slouch!

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Elena Scarf

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 70″ long (not including the fringe) x 7″ wide. It’s not “super-scarf” dimensions, but it’s big enough to give you lots of stylish, wearable options.

Hook: H (5.00mm)

Yarn: Approximately 725 yards (this does include the fringe) of Cascade Yarns’ Longwood Sport. Longwood Sport is a #3 light yarn, and the color shown on the sample is “Oatmeal.”

Gauge: 9 rows of 5 (SC+HDC) combos = 2″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put 1 SC and 1 HDC in the same ST)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in rows, and the ribbing sections on the ends are worked after the main part of the scarf is finished.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: CH 309.

Row 1: In 3rd CH from hook, SC+HDC. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (308)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (308)

Rows 3-32: Repeat Row 2. (308)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Ribbing
Next we’ll crochet the small ribbing sections to each end of the scarf. We will crochet one row of SC along the short edge to provide a base for our ribbing, and then we will be working the ribbing in vertical rows, attaching it to the base row with SL STS as we go.

Ribbing Base Row: Attach yarn to one of the corners of the scarf. SC evenly down the short edge, putting 1SC in each row, for a total of 32SC. CH13.

Ribbing Row 1: Turn your work and SC in 2nd CH from hook, and in each remaining CH. SL ST in the first SC of the Base Row, then SL ST in the next SC of the base row. (12, plus the 2 SL STS on the base row)

Ribbing Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the first 11 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (12)

Ribbing Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 11 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the Base Row. (12, plus the 2 SL STS on the base row)

Ribbing Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the first 11 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (12)

Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way down the Base Row (for 32 rows). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Repeat “Ribbing” instructions for the opposite end of the scarf.

Tassels
Last, we’ll attach tassels to both ends of the scarf.

Cut at least 80 (a few more to be safe) 18″ strands of yarn. In groups of 8 strands, attach yarn to first edge of scarf; 5 groups total, spaced evenly across the edge of the ribbing. Repeat on opposite end of scarf.

November 25, 2016
Riverbed Cowl
In my attempt to put out more pattern sets this season, today’s pattern is a match for the previously-released Riverbed Slouch Hat – the Riverbed Cowl!

Just like the matching slouch, this cowl is soooo easy. It uses the same yarns as the hat — Lion Brand’s Tweed Stripes (shown in “Caramel”) and Vanna’s Choice (shown in “Linen”).

Click here to view the slouch hat pattern, or scroll down for the cowl pattern!

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This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

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RIVERBED COWL

Level: Easy

Size: 32″ around x 12″ tall

Materials:
- K hook (6.50mm) and I hook (5.5mm)
- Yarn needle
- 170 yards of Yarn A: Lion Brand Tweed Stripes (sample shown in Caramel) and 110 yards of Yarn B: Vanna’s Choice in a coordinating color (sample shown in Linen). Tweed Stripes is a Bulky #5 yarn, and Vanna’s Choice is a Worsted/Aran #4 yarn.
- Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)
Gauge:
With larger hook, 6 rows of 7 HDC & SC (alternate each row) = 2″ square. (Gauge is not crucial in this pattern, as instructions for obtaining the correct final measurements are given throughout the pattern.)

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:

(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) After you create the ribbed band, this pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round. Do not join, chain or turn until instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
(3) In the pattern for the Slouch Hat, which was released first, the thicker #5 weight yarn was used first and was referred to as “Yarn A”, with the thinner #4 weight yarn being referred to as “Yarn B”. For consistency, I decided to keep those designations in this pattern even though we start with the thinner #4 weight yarn this time. (In case you were wondering why I start with “Yarn B” below.)

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To begin:
Using smaller hook and Yarn B, CH7.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (6)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 4 STS. SC in last ST. (6)

Rows 3-92 (or until ribbing is about 28″ long): Repeat Row 2. (6)

Fasten off and use your tail to sew the short ends of the ribbing together to form a circle.

Body
Switch to larger hook. Attach Yarn A at the seam of the ribbing and CH1. We will now work in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC evenly around the entire circle, putting 1SC in each ribbing row. (92)

Round 2: HDC in each ST around. (92)

Round 3: SC in each ST around. (92)

Rounds 4-27 (or until cowl measures about 11″ tall): Repeat Rounds 2 & 3. (92)

Attach Yarn B and switch back to smaller hook.

Rounds 28-31: SC in each ST around. (92)

Round 32: SC in each of the first 90 STS. SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (92)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.
November 18, 2016