Category: Blankets + Afghans

  • Linen Stitch Baby Blanket

    Linen Stitch Baby Blanket

    The linen (or moss, or seed, or granite) stitch has become a popular choice for baby blankets, and it’s easy to see why. A little quicker than a purely single crocheted blanket (which I also love; see here), the linen stitch still provides a solid and modern-looking fabric, safe for those little baby fingers.

    The linen stitch is very basic, so it’s left up to the crocheter to decide how to spruce it up with color. I actually got the inspiration for this blanket from one of my son’s newborn socks! (What can I say? You never know when inspiration will strike.)

    ABOUT THE YARN

    This was my first experience with Lion Brand’s Feels Like Butta (affiliate link) yarn. It’s just as soft as they say it is; a little dense, but great for a stroller or carseat blanket for a cooler-weather baby. It doesn’t split at all, and the colors are fresh and bright.

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    I’ve put together a step-by-step video tutorial for you visual learners! The instructions for the pattern are written right on the screen, so you can follow along visually while also developing your pattern-reading skills. It’s a feature I’ve gotten lots of compliments for on my videos, so it’s definitely worth the extra effort it takes to include it!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    LINEN STITCH BABY BLANKET

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: Approx. 30” wide x 36” long (stroller blanket size)  

    Hook: J (6.0mm) and F (4.0mm). My favorite hooks are Clover Amour.

    Yarn: Approx. 1100 yards of #4 aran weight yarn in 3 colors. Yarn used in sample is Lion Brand Feels Like Butta in Pale Grey (COLOR A, about 390 yards), White (COLOR B, about 320 yards), and Lilac (COLOR C, about 390 yards).

    Gauge: With larger hook, the following pattern = 4″ square:

    To begin: CH19.
    Row 1: SC in 3rd CH from hook. (CH1, SK next ST, SC in next ST) across.
    Rows 2-18: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SK first ST, SC in CH1 space. (CH1, SK next ST, SC in next CH1 space) across.

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    BLO (back loop only)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) A video tutorial is available up in the post, or by clicking here.
    (3) When doing your gauge check: If you have to move up or down in hook size to match gauge, be sure to move up or down the same number of millimeters for your smaller hook as well.
    (4) Fasten off at each color change.
    (5) Because of all of the CH1s in the linen stitch, you’re going to want to try to keep a loose tension in the body of the blanket. CHs do not have the stretch that other stitches do. Adjust your hook size if it seems the body of the blanket is getting wider or thinner than the ribbed section.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    INSTRUCTIONS

    TOP RIBBING

    With smaller hook and COLOR A, CH11.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (10)

    Rows 2-144 (or until ribbing measures about 29-30″ long): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 8 STS. SC in final ST. (10)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    BODY (Row count restarts back to 1)

    Switch to larger hook. Pay attention in your first few rows, and if they seem like they are getting wider than the strip of ribbing, downsize your hook; if they are pulling the ribbing inward, choose a larger hook.

    Body, Row 1: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), do not turn. We are now working down the long edge of the ribbing. Look at the edge of the ribbing as a series of tiny peaks and valleys. Skip over the first peak and SC in the valley right after it. (CH1, SK next peak, SC in next valley) across, putting your final SC in the corner of the ribbing at the other end. (72 CH1 spaces + 72 SC)

    Rows 2-154: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SK first ST, SC in CH1 space. (CH1, SK next ST, SC in next CH1 space) across. (72 CH1 spaces + 72 SC). Use the following color pattern:

    Rows 2-32 (32 rows): COLOR A
    Rows 33-34 (2 rows): COLOR B
    Rows 35-42 (8 rows): COLOR A
    Rows 43-46 (4 rows): COLOR B
    Rows 47-52 (6 rows): COLOR A
    Rows 53-58 (6 rows): COLOR B
    Rows 59-62 (4 rows): COLOR A
    Rows 63-70 (8 rows): COLOR B
    Rows 71-72 (2 rows): COLOR A
    Rows 73-82 (10 rows): COLOR B
    Rows 83-84 (2 rows): COLOR C
    Rows 85-92 (8 rows): COLOR B
    Rows 93-96 (4 rows): COLOR C
    Rows 97-102 (6 rows): COLOR B
    Rows 103-108 (6 rows): COLOR C
    Rows 109-112 (4 rows): COLOR B
    Rows 113-120 (8 rows): COLOR C
    Rows 121-122 (2 rows): COLOR B
    Rows 123-154 (32 rows): COLOR C

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    BOTTOM RIBBING

    In this section, we will be creating the bottom ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the body as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 154”; that’s the last row of the body of the blanket we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to. I cover this in the video tutorial for this blanket, but if you feel you need a little more in-depth help with this part, here’s another tutorial video that is specifically about this technique.

    – – –

    Switch to smaller hook; CH11.

    Row 1: Turn. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 9 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Row 154, the stitch on which your CH11 was built. SL ST into the 1st CH1 space from Row 154. (10, plus the two slip stitches along Row 154)

    The section we just created, built on the CH11, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 154, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 9 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in next SC and next CH1 space along row 154. (10, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 154)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 154, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)

    Rows 5-144: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way across Row 154.

    Fasten off and weave in ends.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #linenstitchbabyblanket and tag me @yarnandchai.design 

    Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Malia Baby Blanket

    Malia Baby Blanket

    One of the most common Malia-related requests I get is for a blanket pattern. I always said I’d publish one, but it’s taken me a long time. (Sorry!)

    Truthfully, I’ve been incredibly overwhelmed with life (business and otherwise) for a while. So about a year ago, I decided to <*gasp*> ask for some help. I commissioned a talented crocheter from our Facebook group to create a Malia Baby Blanket with the pattern I had in my head. It was a little scary for me, considering this was the first time I’d asked someone to invest time making pattern of mine that I hadn’t actually made and tested myself yet. But as you can see, it went well… and Erica did a phenomenal job with it!

    I mean look at all those beautiful LBS stitches.

    It’s taken me entirely too long to get this pattern published (again, life = overwhelming), but here it is!

    ABOUT THE YARN

    I sent Erica some Paintbox Simply DK for this sample. I’d never used Paintbox yarn before, and I have to say, the color choices are pretty amazing. I feel like some of the larger yarn companies are trending toward putting out more new lines of yarn with fewer colors to choose from in each one, and I love Paintbox’s philosophy of keeping it simple, because that enables them to be able to offer a wide variety of color choices. This particular yarn (Simply DK) is an acrylic, and while it’s soft, I wasn’t sure if it was soft enough to be a baby blanket. But with a wash, the blanket definitely softened up.

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    If you need a little extra help with the stitches in the Malia stitch pattern, here is a video tutorial! (Please note that this tutorial does not follow the Malia Baby Blanket pattern; I simply show you how to do the Malia stitch pattern by crocheting up a swatch of it.)

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA BABY BLANKET

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Finished Size: Approx. 30” wide x 37.5” long (stroller blanket size). Each color block is approx. 7.5” tall.  

    Hook: 4.5mm (US-7) hook

    Yarn: Approx. 1,950 yards of #3 DK weight in 5 colors. You’ll need about 390 yards per color. Yarn used in sample photos is Paintbox Simply DK in Paper White (COLOR A), Stormy Grey (B), Marine Blue (C), Bubblegum Pink (D), and Neon Pink (E).

    Gauge: 18 HDC x 14 rows = 4″ square

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:

    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) A video tutorial for the stitch pattern is available up in the post, or by clicking here.
    (4) You may prefer to use one hook size larger than your gauge hook to complete the ribbing at the beginning and end of the pattern. Some people tend to crochet ribbing a little tighter, which can result in some minor pulling inward at each end of the blanket.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    TOP RIBBING

    With COLOR A, CH11.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (10)

    Rows 2-144 (or until ribbing measures about 30″ long; be sure to complete an even number of rows): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 8 STS. SC in final ST. (10)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    BODY (Row count restarts back to 1)

    Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC in each row end along the long edge of the ribbing. (144, or however many ribbing rows you completed)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 71 times. SC in final ST. (144)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (144)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 142 STS. SC in final ST. (144)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (144)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 71 times. SC in final ST. (144)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (144)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 142 STS. SC in final ST. (144)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (144)

    Row 10: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 71 times. SC in final ST. (144)

    Row 11: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (144)

    Row 12: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each ST across. (144)

    Rows 13-28: Repeat Rows 5-12, in order, twice. (144)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Switch to COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A.

    Rows 29-60: Repeat Rows 5-12, in order, 4 times. (144)

    Rows 61-64: Repeat Rows 5-8. (144)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Switch to COLOR C; fasten off COLOR B.

    Rows 65-68: Repeat Rows 9-12. (144)

    Rows 69-100: Repeat Rows 5-12, in order, 4 times. (144)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Switch to COLOR D; fasten off COLOR C.

    Rows 101-132: Repeat Rows 5-12, in order, 4 times. (144)

    Rows 133-136: Repeat Rows 5-8. (144)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Switch to COLOR E; fasten off COLOR D.

    Rows 137-140: Repeat Rows 9-12. (144)

    Rows 141-164: Repeat Rows 5-12, in order, 3 times. (144)

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    BOTTOM RIBBING

    In this section, we will be creating the bottom ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the body as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 164” quite a bit; that’s the last row of the body of the blanket we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to. If you need a little help with this part, here’s a tutorial video.

    CH11.
    Row 1:     Turn. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 9 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Row 164, the stitch on which your CH11 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Row 164. (10, plus the two slip stitches along Row 164)

    The section we just created, built on the CH11, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 164, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 9 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Row 164. (10, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 164)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 164, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)

    Rows 5-144: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way across Row 164.

    Fasten off and weave in ends.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliababyblanket and tag me @yarnandchai.design 

    Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Summer Boardwalk Baby Blanket

    Summer Boardwalk Baby Blanket

    I’m all about challenging myself in crochet, but sometimes I just need a simple pattern to relax with at the end of a long day. This blanket pattern, made completely of single crochet stitches, has been wonderful for that purpose!

    I’ve been wanting to design an all-single-crochet blanket because I think the effect is so modern and sleek. Sometimes we get so caught up in thinking we need fancy stitches that we forget how modern a simple, clean design can look. Remember, if you’re gifting a blanket to a new mom with modern taste, she’s not going to care so much about fancy stitchwork – in fact, the fancier the stitchwork, the more “old-fashioned” the project can look. I can almost guarantee that she just wants a cute, soft blanket to wrap her baby in!

    I chose the name “Summer Boardwalk Baby Blanket” because the colors remind me so much of the beach, and the multicolored sections remind me of the run-down wooden planks that often line a beach boardwalk.

    About the Yarn

    I chose Hobby Lobby’s Sweet Delight yarn (from their Baby Bee line) for this project, which is an acrylic baby yarn that is pleasantly soft. Sweet Delight is a really interesting line of DK (that’s #3 weight) yarn, because it boasts a mixture of coordinating solids as well as self-striping, marled, speckled, and variegated colorways, all working together to give you awesome options for colorwork. When I chose the colors for this blanket, I stood in the yarn aisle and searched for a self-striping skein that I loved, then chose three solids that matched the colors contained within it. I also grabbed a white for what has become sort of my signature blanket look – the ribbing on both edges. (So much more modern-looking than a full border!)

    Beware, if you choose a different multi-colored yarn than I did to start with (for instance if you wanted to make a girly blanket), some of the multi-colored yarns in the line have long color changes, and some are more of a variegated… and it’s not easy to tell the difference at first glance! I learned this the hard way when I grabbed a skein of this beautiful white, lavender and green mixture. When I got home and started working with it, I discovered it was variegated (meaning, the color changes happened every couple of inches). You might like variegated yarns, but I’m not a huge fan of them, so I didn’t end up using it. If you want to avoid variegated, very carefully inspect the skein before you purchase it and make sure the color changes are more than a couple inches long. (Don’t destroy the skein and put it back on the shelf; that’s not cool.)

    Lately, Hobby Lobby has been having this awesome 30% off all yarn sale every other week. I grabbed my yarn on sale week and at $5.29 retail price for 6 skeins, I was able to make this entire blanket for $23. Not bad!

    One last thing. I don’t think of myself as a yarn snob, but I am sensitive to scratchy yarns. And when it comes to baby blankets, my standards are especially high. If you’re the same and are wondering how soft this yarn really is, I promise you, it’s soft! For an acrylic yarn, I was thrilled. You know how some yarns feel squishy soft in the skein but then when you start working them up, they just don’t feel that soft anymore? This one maintains its softness. Some of the colors felt softer than others, but I was not a bit disappointed in any of them. This baby blanket is actually a gift for my sister, who is giving birth to my newest nephew this week, if that tells you anything!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    SUMMER BOARDWALK BABY BLANKET

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Easy / Beginner

    Finished Size: 29″ wide x 37″ long

    Hook: 4.5mm (US-7) hook

    Yarn: Approx. 1,200 yards of #3 DK weight in 5 colors. To achieve the effect in the sample blanket, you’ll need to choose a self-striping yarn and a contrast color (for the ribbing) then choose 3 solid colors that coordinate with the self-striping yarn. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee Sweet Delight (from Hobby Lobby) in the following colors and amounts:

    COLOR A (“Angel”) – 145 yards (this is the ribbing)
    COLOR B (“Tricycle Time”) – 510* yards (this is the self-striping yarn) *This is a correction from the previously-published 340 yards
    COLOR C (“Surf Baby”) – 170 yards (this is the aqua)
    COLOR D (“Cloudy”) – 170 yards (this is the light tan)
    COLOR E (“Toy Elephant”) – 170 yards (this is the dark tan-gray)

    Gauge: 19 SC x 25 rows = 4″ square

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    BLO (back loop only)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) Whenever the instructions tell you to switch to a new color, you can fasten off the previous color.
    (4) There is no stitch multiple for this pattern. If you want to make it wider, add rows to the first ribbing section. If you want to make it longer, simply repeat the color blocks, or make them thicker.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    TOP RIBBING

    With COLOR A, CH11.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (10)

    Rows 2-134 (or until ribbing measures about 29-30″ long): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 8 STS. SC in final ST. (10)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    BODY (Row count restarts back to 1)

    Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC in each row end along the long edge of the ribbing. (134, or however many ribbing rows you completed)

    Rows 2-4 (3 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Switch to COLOR B.

    Rows 5-34 (30 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Switch to COLOR A.

    Rows 35-38 (4 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Switch to COLOR C.

    Rows 39-68 (30 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Switch to COLOR A.

    Rows 69-72 (4 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Switch to COLOR B.

    Rows 73-102 (30 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Switch to COLOR A.

    Rows 103-106 (4 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Switch to COLOR D.

    Rows 107-136 (30 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Switch to COLOR A.

    Rows 137-140 (4 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Switch to COLOR B.

    Rows 141-170 (30 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Switch to COLOR A.

    Rows 171-174 (4 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Switch to COLOR E.

    Rows 175-204 (30 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Switch to COLOR A.

    Rows 205-208 (4 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    BOTTOM RIBBING

    In this section, we will be creating the bottom ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the body as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 208” quite a bit; that’s the last row of the body of the blanket we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to. If you need a little extra help, check out my tutorial on how to add ribbing at the end of a crochet project.

    CH11.
    Row 1:     Turn. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 9 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Row 208, the stitch on which your CH11 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Row 208. (10, plus the two slip stitches along Row 208)

    The section we just created, built on the CH11, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 208, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 9 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Row 208. (10, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 208)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 208, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)

    Rows 5-134: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way across Row 208. (10)

    Fasten off and weave in ends.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #summerboardwalkbabyblanket and tag me @yarnandchai.design!

    Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Henry’s Baby Blanket

    Henry’s Baby Blanket

    I am so excited to finally show you my newest little monkey’s baby blanket!

    At the time I’m writing up this blog post, I’m 38 weeks along (although when it gets published, Baby Henry will already be born). I can feel him kicking around inside and I get the feeling he’s just as anxious to be born as I am to hold him in my arms.

    Henry's Baby Blanket Crochet Pattern | Free modern baby blanket crochet pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    For Henry’s blanket, I chose one of my favorite yarns, Cascade Longwood. It has a beautiful stitch definition that I knew would be important in a textured blanket like this. This definitely turned out to be a heavy, warm blanket, perfect for draping over the carseat of a winter baby.

    Henry's Baby Blanket Crochet Pattern | Free modern baby blanket crochet pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    When I started the blanket, I knew that I wanted to use ribbing for the ends to give it a nice finished, modern look. I started out intending to do the entire body of the blanket in herringbone half double crochet, but once I got through the first color block, I couldn’t let go of the nagging feeling that it needed a little more interest. So on a whim, I switched to one of my other favorite stitches, the SC+HDC combo for the 2nd color block. I loved the contrast between the blocks (and how it allowed me to change stitches just when I started getting bored), so I went with it! You can see the different textures – ribbing, herringbone, and SC+HDC – in the photo below.

    Henry's Baby Blanket Crochet Pattern | Free modern baby blanket crochet pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    I think this blanket would make a gorgeous, modern statement for a boy or a girl, depending on the colors you pick.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
    UPDATE: He’s here!

    henry-blog

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    HENRY’S BABY BLANKET

    add-to-ravelry-favorites

    Level: Easyish

    Size: Blanket measures 30″x38″. Adjustment instructions are given in Notes section.

    Hook: H (5.0mm)

    Yarn: I used about 1,330 yards of Cascade Longwood (from Jimmy Beans Wool), but any #4 worsted weight yarn will work. Here’s my breakdown, and the colors as assigned in the pattern:

    COLOR A (White): Cascade Longwood – 01 White (about 220 yards, or <2 skeins)
    COLOR B (Navy): Cascade Longwood – 40 Midnight (about 370 yards, or almost 2 full skeins)
    COLOR C (Gray): Cascade Longwood – 02 Frost Gray (about 370 yards, or almost 2 full skeins)
    COLOR D (Green): Cascade Longwood – 18 Green Spruce – discontinued (about 370 yards, or almost 2 full skeins)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle for weaving in ends

    Gauge: Not super important, but 14 rows of 16 HHDC = 4″.

    Abbreviations Used:
       ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
       SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
    HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
    BLO (back loops only)

    Special Stitch:
    HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

    HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

    (If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
    (3) To adjust the width of your blanket, add or subtract rows from the first ribbing section of the pattern (just be sure to end up with an even number of ribs). To adjust the length of your blanket, you can add/subtract more blocks of color, or make each block taller/shorter.
    (4) Blanket is worked in one piece (except for color changes). In other words, the ribbing at the bottom is not created and sewn on separately.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    SECTION 1: TOP RIBBING

    To begin: With COLOR A (white), CH9.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each ST across. (8)

    Rows 3-120 (or until ribbing measures about 30″ long, but keep it an even number):  CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each ST across. (8)

    – – – – – – – – –

    SECTION 2: BODY OF BLANKET

    The body of the blanket is divided into 6 color blocks which alternate between blocks of Herringbone HDC and blocks of SC+HDC combos. Each color block is separated by a thin, 2-row block of white.

    Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly down the long edge of the ribbing, putting 1SC in each ribbing row (each peak and each valley). It is important to end with an even number of stitches in this row. (120)

    Switch to COLOR B (navy), fasten off previous color.

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

    Rows 3-18: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (120)

    Row 19: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

    Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

    Rows 20-21: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

    Switch to COLOR C (gray), fasten off previous color.

    Row 22: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

    Rows 23-40: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (120)

    Row 41: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

    Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

    Rows 42-43: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

    Switch to COLOR D (green), fasten off previous color.

    Row 44: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

    Rows 45-60: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (120)

    Row 61: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

    Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

    Rows 62-63: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

    Switch to COLOR B (navy), fasten off previous color.

    Row 64: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

    Rows 65-82: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (120)

    Row 83: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

    Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

    Rows 84-85: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

    Switch to COLOR C (gray), fasten off previous color.

    Row 86: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

    Rows 87-102: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (120)

    Row 103: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

    Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

    Rows 104-105: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

    Switch to COLOR D (green), fasten off previous color.

    Row 106: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

    Rows 107-124: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (120)

    Row 125: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

    Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

    Row 126: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

    – – – – – – – – –

    SECTION 3: BOTTOM RIBBING

    In this section, we will be creating the bottom ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the body as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 126” quite a bit; that’s the last row of the body of the blanket we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to. 

    CH9.

    Bottom Ribbing, Row 1: Turn work and SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. SL ST in the first SC of Row 126, then SL ST in the next SC of Row 126 as well. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 126)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 126, SC in BLO of each of the 8 STS of the ribbing to create another row of ribbing. (8)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each of the 8 STS of the ribbing to create another row of ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Row 126. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 126)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 126, SC in BLO of each of the 8 STS of the ribbing to create another row of ribbing. (8)

    Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Row 126. (You should end up with 120 rows of ribbing, which is the number of stitches in Row 126).

    Fasten off and weave in ends.

  • Newborn Photography Prop Blanket

    Newborn Photography Prop Blanket

    Today’s pattern release is a little out-of-the-norm for me. If you’re expecting a bundle of joy soon, or if you work with (or sell to) photographers, you might love it!

    With the arrival of Baby Boy #3 less than 2 months away, I’m starting to think about what I want to do for his newborn photo session. I didn’t even know how to crochet when my two older (now 4 & 6) boys were born, so this is exciting!

    I’m a big fan of the rustic-modern style, so I’ll definitely be incorporating that into the photos. I saw this pin on Pinterest not long ago and decided that a chalkboard crate was the way to go. I figured I’d have to DIY it, so I was really happy when I came across a baby-sized crate at Walmart that already had the chalkboard section built in. It doesn’t get much easier than that!

    Newborn Photography Prop Blanket Crochet Pattern | Free baby photo prop blanket crochet pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    I decided to crochet a few fluffy blankets for the crate, and have been keeping my eyes open for the perfect yarns to achieve the cozy rustic look I want. I ended up choosing three different yarns, and whipped up some of the coziest looking prop blankets ever! These yarns are all different brands, but their colors and textures will work beautifully together or separately.

    As you’ll see below, this pattern isn’t written out as a pattern so much as it is a formula, because it can work for any yarn and any hook size you choose. So instead of giving you detailed chain and stitch counts, I’ll teach you how to determine the right number of stitches for the yarn you choose, to get a beautiful 20″ x 20″ prop-sized blanket.

    Since I know you’re probably wondering, here are the yarns that I used, and their accompanying hook sizes:

    – – – – – –

    Lion Brand Homespun (bulky)

    Color: Shaker
    Hook Size: K

    Newborn Photography Prop Blanket Crochet Pattern | Free baby photo prop blanket crochet pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    This is not a beginner yarn, but I will say that this pattern is ideal for it. The crinkly texture of the yarn makes seeing your stitches tough, but the stitch combination we’re using makes it easy to feel where the hook gets inserted, thanks to the little holes that are created when we skip a stitch and put two stitches together in the next. The resulting blanket is really rustic looking.

    – – – – – –

    Bernat Home Bundle (super bulky)

    Color: Not Sure (It was a mix of cream and white, and I can’t find it online anywhere)
    Hook Size: N

    Newborn Photography Prop Blanket Crochet Pattern | Free baby photo prop blanket crochet pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    I’d never noticed this yarn at the store before, but when I saw it at Joann Fabrics, I knew it was absolutely perfect for the look I wanted to achieve. Home Bundle is a supersized skein of 4 different textures of yarn: a faux-fur, Bernat Blanket, a regular super bulky yarn, and a yarn that feels really similar to Lion Brand Homespun. These textures show up in a self-striping pattern, and I did see a few colorways that featured different colors for each texture, but I opted for the all-cream skein because I didn’t want the jagged edges that come with abrupt color changes (which would be especially noticeable in this thick of a yarn). The resulting blanket is incredibly soft and looks just like something you’d want to snuggle around your newborn.

    – – – – – –

    Charisma Big! by Loops & Threads (bulky)

    Color: Taupe
    Hook Size: L

    Newborn Photography Prop Blanket Crochet Pattern | Free baby photo prop blanket crochet pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    The color of this yarn is gorgeous! I’m always a sucker for really natural-looking neutral yarns, and this is a good one. This is the yarn that shows off the actual pattern the best of the three that I chose. I also opted to put a simple, boy-friendly (i.e. not frilly) border on this one, and included the instructions for it in the pattern below.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

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    NEWBORN PHOTOGRAPHY PROP BLANKET

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    Level: Easy

    Size: 20″ x 20″

    Yarn: Your choice

    Hook: Whatever will work well with the yarn you chose

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, measuring tape

    Gauge:
    Not important

    Abbreviations Used:
       ST (stitch)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
       SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
    (3) This pattern will work for any size blanket and you can chain any number to start as long as it’s an odd number.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    To begin:
    Being sure to chain an odd number of chains, chain until your starting chain is about 19-20″ in length.

    Row 1: SC+HDC in 3rd CH from hook. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across.

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across.

    Repeat Row 2 until your blanket measures about 20″ in length. Fasten off and weave in ends, or continue on to Optional Edging, below.

    – – – – – –

    Optional Edging
    If you want to give your blanket a nice finished edge without drawing a lot of attention to it (remember, we’re going for the rustic look, not the fancy look), follow these instructions:

    Round 1: CH1, turn. SC evenly around the entire blanket, putting 3SC in each corner. (On the sides of the blanket where there aren’t already defined stitches, you can put 1SC in each row.) Join to the first SC with a SL ST.

    Round 2: CH1. SL ST in each SC around the entire blanket, putting (SL ST, CH1, SL ST) in each corner stitch. Join to the first SL ST with a SL ST.

    Newborn Photography Prop Blanket Crochet Pattern | Free baby photo prop blanket crochet pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

  • Zinnia 12″ Square

    Zinnia 12″ Square

    (Pour la traduction française, cliquez ici. Traduit par Véronique Malanda Mavouala de Chez Horaive.)

    After a lot of back-and-forth between the seasons here in Michigan, I think (I said think) it’s safe to say that Spring has officially sprung. So I’m excited to reveal this year’s contribution to the Moogly 2016 Afghan CAL: the Zinnia 12″ Crochet Square!

    If you followed along with the CAL last year, you might think this square looks very familiar. And you’re right! I took my inspiration from my 2015 submission, the Neverending Wildflower 12″ Square.

    The Never Ending Wildflower Granny Square Crochet Pattern | Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet (www.littlemonkeyscrochet.com)

    This flower is built similarly, but has a significant difference: instead of petals that increase in width, as in last year’s square, this one has petals that stay the same size and only increase in quantity, resulting in a mass of tiny petals — much like a Zinnia flower. It’s a great match to the 2015 square, and the two together might make a stunning blanket of their own!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    ZINNIA 12″ SQUARE

    (Pour la traduction française, cliquez ici.)

    Difficulty: Easyish
    Final Size: 12″x12″
    Hook:     I (5.50mm)
    Yarn: Vanna’s Choice, or your favorite #4 aran weight yarn. I used about 130 yards (total) of Vanna’s Choice, in colors Linen, Dusty Purple, Purple, and Taupe.
    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, small button and tools to attach it (optional)
    Gauge: Circle after Round 3 should measure 3.75” in diameter.

    Notes:


    • This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    • The flower, including its petals, are worked as a part of the granny square as a whole. Rounds will alternate between increase rounds and petals. Increase rounds will be called “round 1, 2, 3” etc, and petal rounds will be referred to as “1st round of petals, 2nd round of petals,” etc. Because each petal round shares its space with the increase round below it, they are not counted as part of the pattern’s total rounds.
    • CH1 on the increase rounds does not count as a stitch.
    • Be mindful that the pattern alternates in calling for FLO (Front Loops Only) and BLO (Back Loops Only).
    • If doing a multi-colored flower, the best place to change colors is on the increase rounds (not the petal rounds).

    PART 1: THE FLOWER

    Begin with a Magic Circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 12 DC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (12)

    1st Round of Petals (FLO – don’t miss this!): CH2. In same St, 2DC, CH2, SL ST. This is your first petal. (SL ST to next St. In same St, CH2, 2DC, CH2, SL ST to same St) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. (12 petals)
    The Never Ending Wildflower | Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Round 2 (BLO – You’re now going to work around Round 1 again, this time working in the loop that you ignored during the first round of petals): SL ST to 1st back loop of Round 1. CH1. 2DC in same ST. 2 DC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (24)
    The Never Ending Wildflower | Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    2nd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. (12 petals)

    Round 3 (BLO): SL ST to 1st back loop of Round 2. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in next ST. (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (36)

    3rd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around.  SL ST to base of 1st CH2. (18 petals)

    Round 4 (BLO): SL ST to 1st back loop of Round 3. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (48)

    4th Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around.  SL ST to base of 1st CH2. To complete flower, SL ST to 1st BLO of Round 4. (24 petals)

    PART 2: THE SQUARE

    Round 5 (BLO): CH2 (does not count as a stitch, here and throughout the rest of the pattern). In same ST, 2DC, CH2, 2DC. DC in next. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. DC in next ST. (In next ST, 2DC, CH2, 2DC. DC in next. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. DC in next ST) 3 times. Join to 1st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 15.)

    Round 6: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 19.)

    Round 7: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 23.)

    Round 8: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 27.)

    Round 9: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 31.)

    Round 10: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 35.)

    Round 11: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 39.)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

  • Comfy Squares Textured Blanket

    Comfy Squares Textured Blanket

    When I find a stitch I love, I get really fixated on it. I make a bunch of different patterns with it until I finally get bored and move on to another stitch.

    My fixation right now?

    The SC+HDC combo!

    The first pattern I made with this stitch was the Comfy Squares Textured Cowl. It was a bit of an accident how it all came together, and interestingly enough, that cowl has become my go-to cowl this winter. I love the way it drapes, and I just love the look of the stitches.

    Our family draws names for Christmas, and this year, I drew my Grandma. I was so excited! I knew right away that I wanted to make her something special. So I decided this would be the perfect opportunity to try out this stitch in blanket form.

    I am thrilled with how it turned out!

    Comfy Squares Textured Blanket Crochet Pattern | Free Lap Blanket Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Let’s talk colors. I need to give a shoutout to my friend Krista at Rescued Paw Designs — I’ve admired her great sense of color schemes since I first discovered her blog. The colors I chose for my blanket were inspired by some of her blanket patterns.

    Comfy Squares Textured Blanket Crochet Pattern | Free Lap Blanket Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    I used a collection of Vanna’s Choice (which has some of the most gorgeous neutral colors available in the big craft stores): Purple, Linen, Taupe, and Gray Marble. The great thing about Vanna’s Choice is that their entire line coordinates. So you can pretty much go in and choose any colors you want, and you’re almost guaranteed to come out with a beautiful color scheme.

    My advice? Choose three neutrals and one accent color. Make sure at least one of your choices is a heather yarn (meaning it has little flecks of other colors in it) to give your blanket a rustic modern look. (Love me some rustic modern!)

    I took the advice of my Little Monkeys followers and softened the finished blanket up by running it through the dryer with a dryer sheet. I was surprised at how soft it came out, and it didn’t mess with the blanket at all. (I’m paranoid about stuff like that.)

    Here it is, all ready for Christmas! (Find my free printable “handmade with special care” gift tags here.)

    Comfy Squares Textured Blanket Crochet Pattern | Free Lap Blanket Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    COMFY SQUARES TEXTURED BLANKET

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    Level: Easy

    Size: Blanket measures 30″x40″ (stroller blanket or small lap blanket size). Pattern is easily adjustable for both length and width.

    Hook: K (6.50mm)

    Yarn: About 180 yards of #4 worsted/aran weight yarn per color block. I used Vanna’s Choice (by Lion Brand) in color blocks of Purple (x2), Linen, Taupe and Gray Marble. Please see Notes section for a helpful note about yarn amounts.

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle

    Gauge:
    Not crucial, but a row of 10SC = about 3″ in length.

    Abbreviations Used:
       ST (stitch)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
       SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
    (3) A note about yarn amounts: I used yarn in my stash to complete most of this project, so I wasn’t concerned about trying to use full skeins… which resulted in a pattern that, if done as written, uses about 30 yards of a second skein per color block. If that drives you absolutely nuts, you might want to make your blanket smaller or larger to avoid having a lot of leftover yarn.  🙂
    (4) To adjust the width of your blanket, add or subtract from your starting CH (just begin with an odd number of CHs). To adjust the length of your blanket, add or subtract an even number of rows to/from each color block.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    To begin:
    With first color, CH101.

    Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 CH remains. SC in remaining CH. (100)

    Rows 2-22: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (100)

    Row 23: CH1, turn. SC in first ST and in each ST across. (100)

    Helpful tip: The SCs in Rows 23 & 24 help us to create a nice straight line where color blocks come together. If we didn’t add it, the color changes would have a more jagged edge.

    Switch to a new color; fasten off previous color.

    Row 24: CH1, turn. SC in first ST and in each ST across. (100)

    Rows 25-46: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (100)

    Row 47: CH1, turn. SC in first ST and in each ST across. (100)

    For each remaining color block: Switch to a new color and fasten off the previous color, then repeat Rows 24-47.

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

  • Never Ending Wildflower 12″ Granny Square

    Never Ending Wildflower 12″ Granny Square

    Welcome, Moogly Afghan CAL visitors!

    If you’ve spent much time around my blog (and welcome, to those of you who haven’t), you know that I like to create modern, clean-looking patterns.  I like simple color schemes, clean lines, and contemporary styles!

    That’s why I decided to use my Never Ending Wildflower to create this square. The interest of this pattern doesn’t come from the square itself, but from the beauty of its focal centerpiece, the large, multi-petal wildflower. Of course, you can incorporate as many different colors into this pattern as you want; for me, I prefer just using two, and I love how the contrast makes the flower leap right off the square.

    If you’d like to see the original pattern for the Never Ending Wildflower, and learn how to make it even bigger for different uses, you can view that pattern here.
    The Never Ending Wildflower Crochet Pattern | Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet (www.littlemonkeyscrochet.com)

     

    And for our Dutch friends joining in on the Moogly CAL:
    Dit patroon is (door HET HAAKBEEST) in het Nederlands vertaald. Je vindt een versie met foto’s voor rechtshandigen, eentje met foto’s speciaal voor linkshandigen, en een printerversie zonder foto’s.

     

    THE NEVER ENDING WILDFLOWER 12″ GRANNY SQUARE

    Hook: I (5.50mm)
    Yarn: Vanna’s Choice, or your favorite worsted weight yarn. I used less than 100 yards (each) of Vanna’s Choice in White and Dusty Blue for my sample.
    Difficulty: Easy
    Gauge: Circle after Round 3 should measure 3.75” in diameter.
    Final Size: 12″x12″

    Notes:


    • This pattern is written in American Standard Terms. The flower portion is taken from my original pattern, The Never Ending Wildflower.
    • The flower, including its petals, are worked as a part of the granny square as a whole. Rounds will alternate between increase rounds and petals. Increase rounds will be called “round 1, 2, 3” etc, and petal rounds will be referred to as “1st round of petals, 2nd round of petals,” etc. Because each petal round shares its space with the increase round below it, they are not counted as part of the pattern’s total rounds.
    • CH1 on the increase rounds does not count as a stitch.
    • Be mindful that the pattern alternates in calling for FLO (Front Loops Only) and BLO (Back Loops Only).
    • Each round of petals has 12 total petals. The first round of petals will cover 1 ST (of the previous round) per petal. The 2nd round of petals will cover 2 STS per petal, the 3rd round 3 STS, and so on.

     

    PART 1: THE FLOWER

    Begin with a Magic Circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 12 DC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (12)

    1st Round of Petals (FLO – don’t miss this!): CH2. In same St, 2DC, CH2, SL ST. This is your first petal. (SL ST to next St. In same St, CH2, 2DC, CH2, SL ST to same St) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. (12 petals)
    The Never Ending Wildflower | Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Round 2 (BLO – You’re now going to work around Round 1 again, this time working in the loop that you ignored during the first round of petals): SL ST to 1st back loop of Round 1. CH1. 2DC in same ST. 2 DC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (24)
    The Never Ending Wildflower | Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    2nd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. (12 petals)

    Round 3 (BLO): SL ST to 1st back loop of Round 2. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in next ST. (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (36)

    3rd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. (12 petals)

    Round 4 (BLO): SL ST to 1st back loop of Round 3. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (48)

    4th Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. To complete flower, SL ST to 1st BLO of Round 4. (12 petals)

    Change colors if desired.

     

    PART 2: THE GRANNY SQUARE

    Round 5: CH2 (does not count as a stitch, here and throughout the rest of the pattern). In same ST, 2DC, CH2, 2DC. DC in next. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. DC in next ST. (In next ST, 2DC, CH2, 2DC. DC in next. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. DC in next ST) 3 times. Join to 1st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 15.)

    Round 6: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 19.)

    Round 7: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 23.)

    Round 8: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 27.)

    Round 9: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 31.)

    Round 10: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 35.)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

  • Wildflower Granny Square No. 2

    Wildflower Granny Square No. 2

    Today I am excited to be joining The Blog Hop Crochet Along! Nine other bloggers and I are teaming up to release a new afghan square pattern every day for a month. Crochet along with us and you will have a gorgeous new afghan just in time for the holiday season!

    Here’s how it is going to work:

    • Every day (M-F) a new square pattern will be posted on one of our ten blogs.
    • You can join in the fun by crocheting each day’s square on that day whenever you have time.
    • Share your progress and post photos of your squares in our facebook group.
    • By the end of the Crochet Along you will have twenty 12″ squares all ready to be pieced together into a beautiful afghan just in time for the holiday season.
    • Finally, we will be hosting some fabulous giveaways! You could win Lion Brand yarn to make your own afghan, $100 CASH money, OR our COMPLETED AFGHAN! That’s right, we are going to be piecing all of our squares together and shipping an afghan out to one very lucky winner.


    Hopeful Honey – Persia Lou – Little Monkeys Crochet
    Fiber Flux – Loopsan One Dog Woof – Maybe Matilda
    Dream a Little Bigger – Whistle & Ivy  – Gleeful Things

    —
    —

    Today I am sharing the 12″ Wildflower Granny Square [No. 2]. This, like my last Square-A-Day contribution, is a modified version of my much smaller Wildflower Granny Square. You can find links to all the other participating patterns at the end of this post. The links will be updated daily!

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    12" Wildflower Granny Square from Square-A-Day CrochetAlong | Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

     

    12″ WILDFLOWER GRANNY SQUARE [NO. 2]

    Finished Size: About 12″ square
    Abbreviations Used: 

    • Ch – Chain
    • Sl St – Slip Stitch
    • SC – Single Crochet
    • HDC – Half Double Crochet
    • DC – Double Crochet
    • TR- Treble (or Triple) Crochet
    • FLO – Front Loops Only
    • BLO- Back Loops Only
    • BPDC – Back Post Double Crochet

    Yarn: Medium worsted (I used Wool-Ease from Lion Brand)
    Hook: Size H (5.00mm)
    Notes:
    (1) Pattern is written in American standard terms.
    (2) The square is built around the flower (so the flower will not need to be attached at the end).
    (3) Beginning chains do NOT count as the first stitch in the final row count. When joining, you’ll slip stitch to the top of the first stitch (not the chain).
    (4) I’ve included [New Color] in the pattern whenever I chose to change colors. I think it looks cleaner to attach a new color before joining at the end of a row, but you do what’s familiar to you. The Lion Brand Wool-Ease colors I used in the photo above, in order of introduction, are Dark Rose Heather, Grey Heather, and Violet.
    (5) Don’t overlook the switch to Back Post Double Crochet (BPDC) for round 11! Lots of people missed that part of my first Blog Hop contribution square, but I think it adds so much to the finished product. 🙂

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    THE FLOWER:

    Begin with a Magic Circle.

    Round 1: Ch1. 12 HDC in Magic Circle. [New Color] Join to the top of the first HDC with a Sl St. (12)

    Round 2 (work this round in BLO): Ch2; 2 HDC in same. 2 HDC in next and in each St around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a Sl St. Take a moment to weave in the tails from the first color, and the starting tail of the current color. It will help to get them out of the way. (24)

    The next round is worked in 2 parts: the petals, and then the base behind it. Just follow the instructions and you’ll be fine. 🙂

    Round 3, part 1 (work this round in FLO): Ch2. DC in same. DC in next; Ch2 and Sl St to same St. This is your first petal. (Sl St to next st. Ch 2. DC in same. DC in next. Ch2 and Sl St to same St) around, for a total of 12 petals.

    Round 3, part 2: Turn flower over. You will see a circle that is made up of the back loops that we didn’t use in Round 3.1 (I’ve highlighted this circle in green in the photo below). These are the loops we will use now. Ch1; Sl St into the nearest loop [See Figure 1]. Ch2; 2 DC in same, DC in next. (2 DC in next, DC in next) around [Figure 2]. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St [Figure 3]. (36)

    12" Wildflower Granny Square from Square-A-Day CrochetAlong | Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Round 4, part 1 (work this round in FLO):  Ch2. DC in same St. 2 TR in next. DC in next. Ch2 and Sl St to same St. This is your first petal. (Sl St to next St. Ch2. DC in same. 2 TR in next. DC in next. Ch2 and Sl St to same St) around, for a total of 12 petals.

    THE SQUARE:

    Fasten off and weave in the tail. Turn flower over to view a new circle of back loops, just like the ones from Round 3. Attach [New Color] yarn via one of the loops [Figure 4].

    12" Wildflower Granny Square from Square-A-Day CrochetAlong | Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Round 4, part 2:  Ch2. 2DC in same St, DC in each of the next 2 Sts. (2DC in next, DC in each of the next 2 Sts) around. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (48)

    Round 5:  Ch2. In same St: 2 DC, Ch2, 2 DC (first corner). DC in next St. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. SC in each of the next 3 Sts. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. DC in next St. (In next St: 2 DC, Ch2, 2 DC. DC in next St. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. SC in each of the next 3 Sts. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. DC in next St.) Repeat ( ) 2 more times. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St.

    12" Wildflower Granny Square from Square-A-Day CrochetAlong | Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Round 6:  Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 19 DCs on each side.)

    Round 7:  Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 23 DCs on each side.)

    Round 8:  Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. [New Color] Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 27 DCs on each side.)

    Round 9:  Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. [New Color] Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 31 DCs on each side.)

    Round 10:  Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 35 DCs on each side.)

    Round 11 (note the change to BPDC): Ch2. BPDC in same St and in each St around, but when you come to corner spaces, simply CH2; then begin with your BPDCs across the next side. Join to the top of the first BPDC with a Sl St.(When you complete this round, there should be 35 BPDCs on each side.)

    Round 12:  Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 39 DCs on each side.)

    Fasten off and weave in ends.

  • Wildflower Granny Square No. 1

    Wildflower Granny Square No. 1

    Today I am excited to be joining The Blog Hop Crochet Along! Nine other bloggers and I are teaming up to release a new afghan square pattern every day for a month. Crochet along with us and you will have a gorgeous new afghan just in time for the holiday season!

    Here’s how it is going to work:

    • Every day (M-F) a new square pattern will be posted on one of our ten blogs.
    • You can join in the fun by crocheting each day’s square on that day whenever you have time.
    • Share your progress and post photos of your squares in our facebook group.
    • By the end of the Crochet Along you will have twenty 12″ squares all ready to be pieced together into a beautiful afghan just in time for the holiday season.
    • Finally, we will be hosting some fabulous giveaways! You could win Lion Brand yarn to make your own afghan, $100 CASH money, OR our COMPLETED AFGHAN! That’s right, we are going to be piecing all of our squares together and shipping an afghan out to one very lucky winner.


    Hopeful Honey – Persia Lou – Little Monkeys Crochet
    Fiber Flux – Loopsan One Dog Woof – Maybe Matilda
    Dream a Little Bigger – Whistle & Ivy  – Gleeful Things

    —
    —

    Today I am sharing the 12″ Wildflower Granny Square [No. 1]. This is a modified version of my much smaller Wildflower Granny Square. You can find links to all the other participating patterns at the end of this post. The links will be updated daily!

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    12" Wildflower Granny Square from Square-A-Day CrochetAlong | Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    12″ WILDFLOWER GRANNY SQUARE [NO. 1]

    Finished Size: About 12″ square
    Abbreviations Used: 

    • Ch – Chain
    • Sl St – Slip Stitch
    • SC – Single Crochet
    • HDC – Half Double Crochet
    • DC – Double Crochet
    • TR- Treble (or Triple) Crochet
    • FLO – Front Loops Only
    • BLO- Back Loops Only
    • BPDC – Back Post Double Crochet

    Yarn: Medium worsted (I used Wool-Ease from Lion Brand)
    Hook: Size H (5.00mm)
    Notes:
    (1) Pattern is written in American standard terms.
    (2) The square is built around the flower (so the flower will not need to be attached at the end).
    (3) Beginning chains do NOT count as the first stitch in the final row count. When joining, you’ll slip stitch to the top of the first stitch (not the chain).
    (4) I’ve included [New Color] in the pattern whenever I chose to change colors. I think it looks cleaner to attach a new color before joining at the end of a row, but you do what’s familiar to you. The Lion Brand Wool-Ease colors I used in the photo above, in order of introduction, are Seaspray, Natural Heather, and Eggplant.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    THE FLOWER:

    Begin with a Magic Circle.

    Round 1: Ch1. 12 HDC in Magic Circle. Join to the top of the first HDC with a Sl St. (12)

    Round 2: Ch1; 2 HDC in same. 2 HDC in next and in each St around. [New Color] Join to the top of the first HDC with a Sl St. (24)

    Round 3 (work this round in BLO): Ch2; 2 DC in same, DC in next. (2 DC in next, DC in next) around. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (36)

    Round 4: Ch2; 2 DC in same, DC in each of the next 2 Sts. (2 DC in next, DC in each of the next 2 Sts) around. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (48)

    The next round is worked in 2 parts: the petals, and then the base behind it. Just follow the instructions and you’ll be fine. 🙂

    Round 5, Part 1 (work this round in FLO): Ch3; DC in same St, 2 TR in next, 2 TR in next, DC in next, Ch3 and Sl St to same St as DC. You’ve completed one petal. (Sl St to the next St. Ch3, DC in same, 2 TR in next, 2 TR in next, DC in next, Ch3 and Sl St to same St as DC.) around. Sl St to first St of the round.

    It helps, at this point, to fasten off and weave in all ends; then, proceed with the next instructions.

    THE SQUARE:

    Turn flower over. Attach [New Color] yarn via one of the loops on the back side of the finished flower, as in Figure 1, below. (Remember in Round 5, Part 1 when we worked in FLO? The loop we didn’t use is the loop we’re using now.)

    12" Wildflower Granny Square from Square-A-Day CrochetAlong | Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

     

    Round 5, Part 2: Ch2; 2 DC in same, DC in each of the next 3 Sts. (2 DC in next, DC in each of the next 3 Sts) around. (see figures 2 and 3). Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (60)

    12" Wildflower Granny Square from Square-A-Day CrochetAlong | Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Round 6: Ch2. In same St: 2 DC, Ch2, 2 DC (first corner). DC in each of the next 2 Sts. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. SC in each of the next 4 Sts. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. DC in each of the next 2 Sts. (In next St: 2 DC, Ch2, 2 DC. DC in each of the next 2 Sts. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. SC in each of the next 4 Sts. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. DC in each of the next 2 Sts.) Repeat ( ) 2 more times. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St.

    Round 7: Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. [New Color] Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 22 DCs on each side.)

    Round 8: Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. [New Color] Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 26 DCs on each side.)

    Round 9: Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 30 DCs on each side.)

    Round 10 (note the change to BPDC): Ch2. BPDC in same St and in each St around, but when you come to corner spaces, simply CH2; then begin with your BPDCs across the next side. [New Color] Join to the top of the first BPDC with a Sl St.(When you complete this round, there should be 30 BPDCs on each side.)

    Round 11: Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. [New Color] Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 34 DCs on each side.)

    Round 12: Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 38 DCs on each side.)

    Fasten off and weave in ends.