Category: Crochet Patterns

Henry’s Baby Blanket

I am so excited to finally show you my newest little monkey’s baby blanket!

At the time I’m writing up this blog post, I’m 38 weeks along (although when it gets published, Baby Henry will already be born). I can feel him kicking around inside and I get the feeling he’s just as anxious to be born as I am to hold him in my arms.

For Henry’s blanket, I chose one of my favorite yarns, Cascade Longwood. It has a beautiful stitch definition that I knew would be important in a textured blanket like this. This definitely turned out to be a heavy, warm blanket, perfect for draping over the carseat of a winter baby.

When I started the blanket, I knew that I wanted to use ribbing for the ends to give it a nice finished, modern look. I started out intending to do the entire body of the blanket in herringbone half double crochet, but once I got through the first color block, I couldn’t let go of the nagging feeling that it needed a little more interest. So on a whim, I switched to one of my other favorite stitches, the SC+HDC combo for the 2nd color block. I loved the contrast between the blocks (and how it allowed me to change stitches just when I started getting bored), so I went with it! You can see the different textures – ribbing, herringbone, and SC+HDC – in the photo below.

I think this blanket would make a gorgeous, modern statement for a boy or a girl, depending on the colors you pick.

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UPDATE: He’s here!

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This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

HENRY’S BABY BLANKET

Level: Easyish

Size: Blanket measures 30″x38″. Adjustment instructions are given in Notes section.

Hook: H (5.0mm)

Yarn: I used about 1,330 yards of Cascade Longwood (from Jimmy Beans Wool), but any #4 worsted weight yarn will work. Here’s my breakdown, and the colors as assigned in the pattern:

COLOR A (White): Cascade Longwood – 01 White (about 220 yards, or <2 skeins)
COLOR B (Navy): Cascade Longwood – 40 Midnight (about 370 yards, or almost 2 full skeins)
COLOR C (Gray): Cascade Longwood – 02 Frost Gray (about 370 yards, or almost 2 full skeins)
COLOR D (Green): Cascade Longwood – 18 Green Spruce – discontinued (about 370 yards, or almost 2 full skeins)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Gauge: Not super important, but 14 rows of 16 HHDC = 4″.

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
BLO (back loops only)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(3) To adjust the width of your blanket, add or subtract rows from the first ribbing section of the pattern (just be sure to end up with an even number of ribs). To adjust the length of your blanket, you can add/subtract more blocks of color, or make each block taller/shorter.
(4) Blanket is worked in one piece (except for color changes). In other words, the ribbing at the bottom is not created and sewn on separately.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

SECTION 1: TOP RIBBING

To begin: With COLOR A (white), CH9.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each ST across. (8)

Rows 3-120 (or until ribbing measures about 30″ long, but keep it an even number): CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each ST across. (8)

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SECTION 2: BODY OF BLANKET

The body of the blanket is divided into 6 color blocks which alternate between blocks of Herringbone HDC and blocks of SC+HDC combos. Each color block is separated by a thin, 2-row block of white.

Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly down the long edge of the ribbing, putting 1SC in each ribbing row (each peak and each valley). It is important to end with an even number of stitches in this row. (120)

Switch to COLOR B (navy), fasten off previous color.

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Rows 3-18: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (120)

Row 19: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

Rows 20-21: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR C (gray), fasten off previous color.

Row 22: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Rows 23-40: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (120)

Row 41: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

Rows 42-43: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR D (green), fasten off previous color.

Row 44: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Rows 45-60: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (120)

Row 61: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

Rows 62-63: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR B (navy), fasten off previous color.

Row 64: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Rows 65-82: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (120)

Row 83: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

Rows 84-85: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR C (gray), fasten off previous color.

Row 86: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Rows 87-102: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (120)

Row 103: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

Rows 104-105: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR D (green), fasten off previous color.

Row 106: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Rows 107-124: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (120)

Row 125: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

Row 126: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

– – – – – – – – –

SECTION 3: BOTTOM RIBBING

In this section, we will be creating the bottom ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the body as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 126” quite a bit; that’s the last row of the body of the blanket we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to.

CH9.

Bottom Ribbing, Row 1: Turn work and SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. SL ST in the first SC of Row 126, then SL ST in the next SC of Row 126 as well. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 126)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 126, SC in BLO of each of the 8 STS of the ribbing to create another row of ribbing. (8)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each of the 8 STS of the ribbing to create another row of ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Row 126. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 126)

Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 126, SC in BLO of each of the 8 STS of the ribbing to create another row of ribbing. (8)

Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Row 126. (You should end up with 120 rows of ribbing, which is the number of stitches in Row 126).

Fasten off and weave in ends.

January 3, 2017
Caroline Cowl

I don’t know about you, but the closer I get to Christmas, the more I tend to start using chunkier yarns. It’s not just because it’s getting colder outside; it’s also because bulky yarn works up faster, and we have a deadline, people!

So if you have someone on your Christmas list who loves cozy accessories, here’s an easy cowl pattern that uses one of my favorite stitches and Woolspun yarn from Lion Brand. (It’s the same yarn, and color, I used in the Rustic Slouch & Infinity Scarf set.)

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CAROLINE COWL

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 28″ around x 11″ tall

Hook: N (9.00mm)

Yarn: About 240 yards (2 skeins) of Lion Brand Woolspun, a bulky #5 yarn.

Gauge: 10 rows of 5 (SK1, SC+HDC in 1) combos = 4″ (see “Abbreviations” below for explanation of SC+HDC)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 5 buttons (1″)

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a SC and an HDC in the same stitch)
BLO (back loops only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) The buttons are decorative (non-functional).
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: CH6.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (5)

Rows 2-70: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each ST across. (5)

Row 71: CH1; do not turn. Working down the long edge now, put 1 SC in each row. (70)

Row 72-92: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (70)

Edging: CH1, turn. SC evenly around the entire cowl, putting (SC, CH1, SC) in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SC.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Buttons
Overlap the two shorter sides of the cowl by about 1″, and use pins to hold it in place. Place and sew 5 buttons evenly spaced down the edge, being sure to sew through both layers.

December 10, 2016
Elena Slouch

November is coming to a close, and yesterday during our family Thanksgiving at my parent’s house, I was able to snatch my nieces up for one last photo shoot for the remaining patterns in the Little Monkeys Crochet Fall 2016 collection. (Speaking of thankfulness – I am so thankful for those girls! They are beautiful inside and out, and they’re always willing to play along when I need something photographed.)

This slouch hat pattern might just have stolen the top spot as my favorite pattern of the season. The combination of the lightweight yarn in the perfect neutral color, the rustic buttons, and the faux fur pom made it all come together so well. This hat is a bit more unique than all of my previous slouchy releases in the way it’s built, so it was a fun challenge to figure out the best way to write it all out for you.

As you may have guessed if you’ve been following me for a while, I used Cascade Yarns’ Longwood Sport for this pattern. It’s probably safe to say I’m addicted to this yarn, because whenever I finish a pattern with it, if I have some left over, I immediately start dreaming up a new pattern with the remaining yarn knowing full well that I’ll have to go order more in order to finish it. It’s a vicious cycle, folks, and I can’t escape it, and I don’t really want to. (I buy mine from Jimmy Beans Wool because their shipping prices rock.)

By now you might be asking, hey Rebecca, is that a matching scarf I see in your photos? Why yes, it is! Click here to view the Elena Scarf in its entirety and make one for yourself to go with your brand new slouch.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

ELENA SLOUCH

Difficulty: Easyish

Finished Size: 9.5″ tall x 9.5″ wide (when laid flat)

Hooks: H (5.00mm) and G (4.25mm)

Yarn: Approximately 265 yards of Cascade Yarns’ Longwood Sport (that’s just about a full skein). Longwood Sport is a #3 light yarn, and the color shown on the sample is “Oatmeal.”

Gauge: With larger hook, 9 rows of 5 (SK 1, SC+HDC in next) combos = 2″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 3/4″ buttons (4), faux fur pom pom (optional; mine is from Premier Yarns in “Otter”), needle and thread

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle – view my tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put 1 SC and 1 HDC in the same ST)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) I do not currently have an adaptation for a worsted weight version of this pattern.

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THE PATTERN

To begin: Using larger hook, create a Magic Circle; CH1.

Round 1: 10HDC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first HDC. (10)

Round 2: CH1. 2HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first HDC. (20)

Round 3: CH1. 2HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first HDC. (40)

Round 4: CH1. 2HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first HDC. (80)

Round 5: CH1. 2HDC in first ST, HDC in each of the next 3 STS. (2HDC in next ST, HDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first HDC. (100)

We are now switching to turned rows.

Row 6: CH5, turn. SC+HDC in 3rd CH from hook. SK next CH. SC+HDC in 5th (final) CH. We are now going to begin working around the hat. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. (104)

Row 7: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. (104)

Rows 8-30: Repeat Row 7. (104)

Note: At the end of Row 30, your hook should be on the end of the hat that does not have the extra stitches created by the CH5 from Row 6.

Row 31: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST. Place a stitch marker in the stitch you just made (the 4th stitch of the row); we’ll reference it in the next row. Continue to (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. (104)

Round 32: CH1, turn. Lay the inner edges of the hat so that they overlap, with your hook lined up with the stitch marker from Row 31, placing the edge that has the additional stitches (created by the CH5 from Row 6) underneath the opposite edge. Insert your hook into the first ST and the stitch that we marked with a stitch marker in the previous row (see photo below); make an SC in all 4 loops. Continuing to line up the overlapping stitches, SC in both layers of each of the next 3 STS. You have now sealed the bottom edge of the overlapping pieces together. Continue to SC in each ST around the rest of the hat. Join with a SL ST to first SC. (100)

Creating the Band

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to Round 32 of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Switch to G (4.25mm) hook.

Row 1: CH7. SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in remaining 5 CHS. SL ST along the next 2 STS of Round 32 of the hat. (6, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SL ST along the next 2 STS of Round 32 of the hat. (6, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (100 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to carefully sew the first and last rows of the band together. Weave in all ends.

Buttons
Where the two edges of the hat meet and overlap, use a few ball point pins to secure them in place. Then, place and sew your buttons along the edge, being sure to position them so that your needle goes through both layers, sewing them together; when you remove the ball point pins, you want the buttons to hold the hat together on their own.

Attach your pom pom if desired. Done!

November 25, 2016
Elena Scarf

So I was looking back through all of my patterns the other day and realizing that, for whatever reason, I’ve never designed a regular, classic scarf. I’ve always done infinity scarves! It’s probably because I love to wear them; they are just so easy.

When I got the idea for this scarf, I originally intended it to be an infinity scarf, too. I was going to seam it up at the end, add some buttons, and maybe even add some fringe all the way around. But the longer I worked on it, the more I started to think, this should be a classic scarf. It has this amazing texture, and when I would double-wrap it around my neck, all that gorgeous texture just sort of got lost in the folds. But when I draped it once around my neck and let it hang, it just looked right.

So, here is yet another instance this season when I’m branching out of my “norm” and doing something different than what I’ve always done. I hope you love the finished product as much as I do! This scarf has so many ways it can be worn, and here are a few (my favorite is the Figure 8):

On Using A Different Yarn Weight

Every time I design a pattern with #3 light yarn, someone inevitably asks how to adapt the pattern for #4 worsted. I totally get it; I crocheted for at least a year or two before I ventured into anything less than #4. While I think the lighter yarn really contributes to the texture of this pattern (and, shoutout to the newbies: #3 yarn is not as scary as you think it is), it really wouldn’t be that difficult to adapt it for #4 yarn, or even bulky or super bulky yarn. You just need to make the body of the scarf about 65″ long and repeat the rows until it is 7″ wide. Then, when you add your ribbing, chain enough to add a 2.5″ ribbing section to each end. I can’t give you exact stitch / row counts, nor can I tell you how much the yardage would be, but feel free to adapt it as you see fit. (That’s my nice way of saying that if you deviate from the pattern, you’re on your own.) 🙂

And since I loved the finished look of this scarf so much, I knew it needed to be a set. Click here to view the pattern for the matching slouch!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

Elena Scarf

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 70″ long (not including the fringe) x 7″ wide. It’s not “super-scarf” dimensions, but it’s big enough to give you lots of stylish, wearable options.

Hook: H (5.00mm)

Yarn: Approximately 725 yards (this does include the fringe) of Cascade Yarns’ Longwood Sport. Longwood Sport is a #3 light yarn, and the color shown on the sample is “Oatmeal.”

Gauge: 9 rows of 5 (SC+HDC) combos = 2″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put 1 SC and 1 HDC in the same ST)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in rows, and the ribbing sections on the ends are worked after the main part of the scarf is finished.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: CH 309.

Row 1: In 3rd CH from hook, SC+HDC. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (308)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (308)

Rows 3-32: Repeat Row 2. (308)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Ribbing
Next we’ll crochet the small ribbing sections to each end of the scarf. We will crochet one row of SC along the short edge to provide a base for our ribbing, and then we will be working the ribbing in vertical rows, attaching it to the base row with SL STS as we go.

Ribbing Base Row: Attach yarn to one of the corners of the scarf. SC evenly down the short edge, putting 1SC in each row, for a total of 32SC. CH13.

Ribbing Row 1: Turn your work and SC in 2nd CH from hook, and in each remaining CH. SL ST in the first SC of the Base Row, then SL ST in the next SC of the base row. (12, plus the 2 SL STS on the base row)

Ribbing Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the first 11 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (12)

Ribbing Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 11 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the Base Row. (12, plus the 2 SL STS on the base row)

Ribbing Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the first 11 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (12)

Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way down the Base Row (for 32 rows). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Repeat “Ribbing” instructions for the opposite end of the scarf.

Tassels
Last, we’ll attach tassels to both ends of the scarf.

Cut at least 80 (a few more to be safe) 18″ strands of yarn. In groups of 8 strands, attach yarn to first edge of scarf; 5 groups total, spaced evenly across the edge of the ribbing. Repeat on opposite end of scarf.

November 25, 2016
Riverbed Cowl
In my attempt to put out more pattern sets this season, today’s pattern is a match for the previously-released Riverbed Slouch Hat – the Riverbed Cowl!

Just like the matching slouch, this cowl is soooo easy. It uses the same yarns as the hat — Lion Brand’s Tweed Stripes (shown in “Caramel”) and Vanna’s Choice (shown in “Linen”).

Click here to view the slouch hat pattern, or scroll down for the cowl pattern!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

RIVERBED COWL

Level: Easy

Size: 32″ around x 12″ tall

Materials:
- K hook (6.50mm) and I hook (5.5mm)
- Yarn needle
- 170 yards of Yarn A: Lion Brand Tweed Stripes (sample shown in Caramel) and 110 yards of Yarn B: Vanna’s Choice in a coordinating color (sample shown in Linen). Tweed Stripes is a Bulky #5 yarn, and Vanna’s Choice is a Worsted/Aran #4 yarn.
- Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)
Gauge:
With larger hook, 6 rows of 7 HDC & SC (alternate each row) = 2″ square. (Gauge is not crucial in this pattern, as instructions for obtaining the correct final measurements are given throughout the pattern.)

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:

(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) After you create the ribbed band, this pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round. Do not join, chain or turn until instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
(3) In the pattern for the Slouch Hat, which was released first, the thicker #5 weight yarn was used first and was referred to as “Yarn A”, with the thinner #4 weight yarn being referred to as “Yarn B”. For consistency, I decided to keep those designations in this pattern even though we start with the thinner #4 weight yarn this time. (In case you were wondering why I start with “Yarn B” below.)

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using smaller hook and Yarn B, CH7.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (6)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 4 STS. SC in last ST. (6)

Rows 3-92 (or until ribbing is about 28″ long): Repeat Row 2. (6)

Fasten off and use your tail to sew the short ends of the ribbing together to form a circle.

Body
Switch to larger hook. Attach Yarn A at the seam of the ribbing and CH1. We will now work in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC evenly around the entire circle, putting 1SC in each ribbing row. (92)

Round 2: HDC in each ST around. (92)

Round 3: SC in each ST around. (92)

Rounds 4-27 (or until cowl measures about 11″ tall): Repeat Rounds 2 & 3. (92)

Attach Yarn B and switch back to smaller hook.

Rounds 28-31: SC in each ST around. (92)

Round 32: SC in each of the first 90 STS. SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (92)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.
November 18, 2016
Newborn Photography Prop Blanket

Today’s pattern release is a little out-of-the-norm for me. If you’re expecting a bundle of joy soon, or if you work with (or sell to) photographers, you might love it!

With the arrival of Baby Boy #3 less than 2 months away, I’m starting to think about what I want to do for his newborn photo session. I didn’t even know how to crochet when my two older (now 4 & 6) boys were born, so this is exciting!

I’m a big fan of the rustic-modern style, so I’ll definitely be incorporating that into the photos. I saw this pin on Pinterest not long ago and decided that a chalkboard crate was the way to go. I figured I’d have to DIY it, so I was really happy when I came across a baby-sized crate at Walmart that already had the chalkboard section built in. It doesn’t get much easier than that!

I decided to crochet a few fluffy blankets for the crate, and have been keeping my eyes open for the perfect yarns to achieve the cozy rustic look I want. I ended up choosing three different yarns, and whipped up some of the coziest looking prop blankets ever! These yarns are all different brands, but their colors and textures will work beautifully together or separately.

As you’ll see below, this pattern isn’t written out as a pattern so much as it is a formula, because it can work for any yarn and any hook size you choose. So instead of giving you detailed chain and stitch counts, I’ll teach you how to determine the right number of stitches for the yarn you choose, to get a beautiful 20″ x 20″ prop-sized blanket.

Since I know you’re probably wondering, here are the yarns that I used, and their accompanying hook sizes:

– – – – – –

Lion Brand Homespun (bulky)

Color: Shaker
Hook Size: K

This is not a beginner yarn, but I will say that this pattern is ideal for it. The crinkly texture of the yarn makes seeing your stitches tough, but the stitch combination we’re using makes it easy to feel where the hook gets inserted, thanks to the little holes that are created when we skip a stitch and put two stitches together in the next. The resulting blanket is really rustic looking.

– – – – – –

Bernat Home Bundle (super bulky)

Color: Not Sure (It was a mix of cream and white, and I can’t find it online anywhere)
Hook Size: N

I’d never noticed this yarn at the store before, but when I saw it at Joann Fabrics, I knew it was absolutely perfect for the look I wanted to achieve. Home Bundle is a supersized skein of 4 different textures of yarn: a faux-fur, Bernat Blanket, a regular super bulky yarn, and a yarn that feels really similar to Lion Brand Homespun. These textures show up in a self-striping pattern, and I did see a few colorways that featured different colors for each texture, but I opted for the all-cream skein because I didn’t want the jagged edges that come with abrupt color changes (which would be especially noticeable in this thick of a yarn). The resulting blanket is incredibly soft and looks just like something you’d want to snuggle around your newborn.

– – – – – –

Charisma Big! by Loops & Threads (bulky)

Color: Taupe
Hook Size: L

The color of this yarn is gorgeous! I’m always a sucker for really natural-looking neutral yarns, and this is a good one. This is the yarn that shows off the actual pattern the best of the three that I chose. I also opted to put a simple, boy-friendly (i.e. not frilly) border on this one, and included the instructions for it in the pattern below.

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NEWBORN PHOTOGRAPHY PROP BLANKET

Level: Easy

Size: 20″ x 20″

Yarn: Your choice

Hook: Whatever will work well with the yarn you chose

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, measuring tape

Gauge:
Not important

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(3) This pattern will work for any size blanket and you can chain any number to start as long as it’s an odd number.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Being sure to chain an odd number of chains, chain until your starting chain is about 19-20″ in length.

Row 1: SC+HDC in 3rd CH from hook. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across.

Row 2: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across.

Repeat Row 2 until your blanket measures about 20″ in length. Fasten off and weave in ends, or continue on to Optional Edging, below.

– – – – – –

Optional Edging
If you want to give your blanket a nice finished edge without drawing a lot of attention to it (remember, we’re going for the rustic look, not the fancy look), follow these instructions:

Round 1: CH1, turn. SC evenly around the entire blanket, putting 3SC in each corner. (On the sides of the blanket where there aren’t already defined stitches, you can put 1SC in each row.) Join to the first SC with a SL ST.

Round 2: CH1. SL ST in each SC around the entire blanket, putting (SL ST, CH1, SL ST) in each corner stitch. Join to the first SL ST with a SL ST.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

November 10, 2016
Oakley Slouch Hat

Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

A loooooong time ago, I received a shipment from Cascade Yarns and they threw in a bonus ball of a yarn that I’d never used before: Heritage Paints. It sat on my shelf for quite a while, because I honestly didn’t know what to do with it. It was a #1 super fine sock yarn, and the only other experience I’d had with that weight of yarn was when, as a newer crocheter, I’d purchased some of another brand and worked with it for about 2 minutes before I gave up on it because it was so thin and tangly.

Eventually, about a month ago, I started wondering what it would be like to make a hat out of sock yarn. I got so curious that I finally grabbed the Heritage Paints off my shelf and gave it a try. And it was actually really fun!

I honestly don’t know how to compare Heritage yarn to other #1 yarns, because I think the issue I had with that other yarn years ago was probably more due to my inexperience than it was about the yarn. But what I can tell you is that Heritage yarn is really, really easy to use. It actually reminds me a lot of Cascade Longwood yarn (and you all know how much I loooooove that yarn). It’s just a lot thinner. Sure, it takes longer to make a hat, but the gorgeousness of the finished fabric makes up for the time spent!

I stuck with a simple formula of a faux-cinched crown and single crocheted body, because I’m a firm believer in keeping the stitches simple when I’m working with a busy yarn. And I found that working this pattern in single crochet allowed the design of the yarn to show up in nice, neat stripes.

My other philosophy of using busy yarn is that it helps to balance it out with a not-so-busy yarn, so I did the ribbing in Heritage Solids in the color Snow, and I also made a pom pom with my Clover Pom Pom Maker using the same yarn. The resulting hat has such a nice feel and drape. Like wearing a cozy sock on your head! 🙂

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OAKLEY SLOUCH HAT

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 10″ tall x 9.5″ wide (when laid flat)

Hook: E (3.5mm)

Yarn: About 330 yards (not including optional pom pom) of Heritage Yarn by Cascade Yarns. Heritage is a #1 super fine weight yarn that is very easy to work with. (I think it feels more like a thin sport weight yarn.) Heritage comes in solids, prints, and paints; for the body of the hat in my photos, I used Heritage Prints in “Beach Cliff”, and for the band and the pom pom, I used Heritage Solids in “Snow”.

Gauge: 29 rows of 23 SC = 4″ square.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
BLO (back loops only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Do not join or turn unless instructed to do so. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: Make a MC; CH1.

Round 1: 10HDC in MC. (10)

Round 2: 2HDC in each ST around. (20)

Round 3: 2HDC in each ST around. (40)

Round 4: 2HDC in each ST around. (80)

Tip: Your base should be looking very wavy at this point.

Round 5: (2HDC in next ST, HDC in next ST) around. (120)

Rounds 6-50 (or until hat is about 8″ tall when laid flat): SC in each ST around. (120)

Round 51: SC in each of the first 118 STS (2 STS remain unworked). SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS to smooth down the round.

If using a different color for the band, you can switch to that new color now.

Ribbed Band

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Row 1: CH15. SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in remaining 13 CHS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the final round of the hat. (14, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 13 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (14)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 13 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the final round of the hat. (14, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (120 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends.

Optional: Create and attach pom pom in a coordinating color. (I used a large Clover Pom Pom Maker.)

October 28, 2016
Shiplap Slouch

A couple of months ago, we took our annual family trip to my favorite Michigan spot, South Haven! It was an amazing week full of great food, gorgeous sunsets, and lots and lots of beach time.

Of course I had to stop in at Needle In A Haystack (edit: sadly, this cute little yarn store is now closed for good) for some Cascade Longwood yarn so that I would have something to work on down at the beach!

This is probably my favorite yarn out of anything I’ve used. It’s so soft and has such a stunning, defined finish, and gorgeous drape. I first experienced it (the #3 weight version) during last year’s trip, which resulted in the South Haven Slouch. It’s not the easiest yarn to find, but you can always order it online from stores like Jimmy Beans Wool. It’s pricier than what you find in the big craft stores, so I save it for my most special projects, like the Herringbone Baby Hat I recently made for my son (Due in December).

This year’s “vacation pattern” is also a slouchy hat, because frankly, it’s really hard to crochet anything bigger without it getting dragged across the sand every time the wind blows. And if you’ve spent any time around my blog, you probably noticed that I loooooove slouchy hats. I never get bored with them! Like the South Haven Slouch, this one also uses the #3 weight version of Longwood, called Longwood Sport.

I usually use temporary names for my patterns until it’s time to publish them, and then I come up with something permanent. I called this one the Shiplap Slouch as I was making it, and the name just stuck. Something about the color and the lines reminds me of shiplap. (Yes, I do watch a lot of Fixer Upper, why do you ask?)

OH, and before I forget… yes, there’s a matching cowl pattern!

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SHIPLAP SLOUCH HAT

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 9.5″ tall x 9.5″ wide (when laid flat)

Hook: H (5.00mm) and G (4.25mm)

Yarn: Approximately 230 yards of Cascade Longwood Sport, a #3 light yarn.

Gauge: Your first 5 rounds should measure 3″ across.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
HDC (half double crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds and do not join unless instructed to do so.
(3) Since we are working in a seamless round, your ribbing rows will not meet up perfectly in the back. This is unavoidable, and the alternative (joining each round) is much, much more obvious. (Trust me, I tried it.)
(4) Pattern uses regular HDC to set up each ribbing row. The abbreviation is very similar to HHDC, so pay attention!
(5) To find the “3rd loop” (as mentioned in Round 13 and every 4 rows after that), reach over your top loops and insert your hook into the loop just past (below) the top loop that is furthest from you. (Also called the Camel Stitch or RibHDC.)

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: With H hook, make a magic circle; CH1.

Round 1: 9 HHDC in MC. (9)

Round 2: 2 HHDC in each ST around. (18)

Round 3: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in next ST) around. (27)

Round 4: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)

Round 5: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (45)

Round 6: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (54)

Round 7: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (63)

Round 8: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 6 STS) around. (72)

Round 9: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (81)

Round 10: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 8 STS) around. (90)

Round 11: HHDC in each ST around. (90)

Round 12: HDC in each ST around. (90)

Round 13: HHDC in 3rd loop of each ST around. (90)

Round 14: HHDC in each ST around. (90)

Round 15: HHDC in each ST around. (90)

Round 16: HDC in each ST around. (90)

Rounds 17-32: Repeat Rounds 13-16. (90)

Round 33: HHDC in 3rd loop of each ST around. You should now have 6 rows of ribbing. (90)

Switch to G Hook.

Rounds 34-39: HHDC in each ST around. (90)

Round 40: HHDC in each of the first 86 STS (4 STS remain). SC in each of the next 2 STS, SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (90)

Fasten off and weave in your ends.

October 21, 2016
Shiplap Cowl

Every season, there seems to be one pattern that I am crazy excited about. I try to never put out anything that I’m not proud of, but there’s always one pattern that I think of as the highlight of my season. Last year it was the Rustic Slouch & Infinity Scarf set, and the year before that, the Sandy Cowl. This year, it’s the Shiplap Slouch & Cowl set, hands down!

Made with my favorite yarn, Cascade Longwood Sport, this set combines 3 of my favorite things: 3rd Loop HDC, Herringbone HDC, and fringe.

I actually designed the Shiplap Slouch a couple of months ago while on vacation in South Haven, Michigan:

And after I finished it, I just knew it needed a matching accessory, so I ordered more yarn and made a cowl!

I love me some fringe, but of course, it’s up to you if you want to add it.

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SHIPLAP COWL

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 27″ around x 10.5″ tall (not including fringe)

Hook: H (5.00mm)

Yarn: Approximately 370 yards of Cascade Longwood Sport, a #3 light yarn.

Gauge: 8 rows of 9 HHDC = 2″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
HDC (half double crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds and do not join, turn or chain unless instructed to do so.
(3) Since we are working in a seamless round, your ribbing rows will not meet up perfectly in the back. This is unavoidable, and the alternative (joining each round) is much, much more obvious. (Trust me, I tried it.)
(4) Pattern uses regular HDC to set up each ribbing row. The abbreviation is very similar to HHDC, so pay attention!
(5) To find the “3rd loop” (as mentioned in Round 13 and every 4 rows after that), reach over your top loops and insert your hook into the loop just past (below) the top loop that is furthest from you. (Also called the Camel Stitch or RibHDC.)

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: CH120. Join, being careful not to twist the chain. (Briana K has a brilliantly easy tutorial on how to get this right every time – click here to view!)

Round 1: CH1; HHDC in each ST around. (120)

Rounds 2-7: HHDC in each ST around. (120)

Round 8: HDC in each ST around. (120)

Round 9: HHDC in 3rd loop of each ST around. (120)

Round 10: HHDC in each ST around. (120)

Round 11: HHDC in each ST around. (120)

Round 12: HDC in each ST around. (120)

Rounds 13-37: Repeat Rounds 9-12. (120)

Rounds 38-39: HHDC in each ST around. (120)

Round 40: HHDC in each of the first 116 STS (4 STS remain). SC in each of the next 2 STS. SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (120)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Fringe
Cut about 100 pieces of 9″ long fringe. Take 4 pieces of fringe at a time and, using your hook, attach them along the bottom of the cowl at every 5 stitches.

October 21, 2016
Sophia Slouch Hat
Sometimes, you find a yarn that is just asking to do all the work for you.

That’s how I felt when I found Landscapes (by Lion Brand). The color changes were so gradual and pretty that I knew it was begging to become a simple hat with an eye-catching finish. I’m all about writing patterns that confident beginners can do, and this is one of those patterns!

To pull the colors of the hat into an organized look, I used two skeins of Landscapes: one in Metropolis (a gorgeous mix of silvery purple and black) for the body and one in coordinating Black for the ribbed band. That’s the great thing about Landscapes; it comes in an array of multi-colored (self-striping) hues, as well as coordinating solids.

I also picked up a black Lion Brand Pom, because I’d never used one before. I love how it all came together!

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SOPHIA SLOUCH CROCHET PATTERN

Level: Easy

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 9” across the bottom of the band, and is 10” tall (not including pom pom).

Materials:
- I Hook (5.50mm) and G hook (4.25mm)
- Yarn needle
- 180 yards of Yarn A: Lion Brand Landscapes in a self-striping hue (sample shown in Metropolis) and about 40 yards of Yarn B: Lion Brand Landscapes in a coordinating solid hue (sample shown in Black). (Note: If using the recommended yarn, you’ll need to purchase 3 total skeins – two self-striping and one solid. If you instead choose to do the band of the hat in the same self-striping yarn, you can combine the total yardage and purchase just two skeins of that.)
- Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)
- 1 Lion Brand Pom in coordinating color (optional)
Gauge:
With larger hook, 9 rows of 7 SC = 2″ square.

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:

(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) This hat is worked in a continuous spiral until the band. Do not join, chain or turn until instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
(3) The pom pom is optional.
(4) Because of the self-striping nature of the yarn, and the fact that we need to use more than 1 skein of it, be advised that you may have to pull some yarn out of the second skein in order to find the same color point that your current skein is at in the self-striping pattern. This is just the nature of multi-colored yarns.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using larger hook, with Yarn A, make a magic circle.

Round 1: 10 HDC in MC (10)

Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around (20)

Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around (40)

Note: At this point, it’s going to start looking wavy. You’re doing it right! The back of the hat has a faux-cinched look to it, and this is how we achieve it. Once you get to the body of the hat, it will start to straighten itself out naturally.

Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (60)

Round 5: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 STS) around (80)

Rounds 6-31: SC around (80)

Round 32: SC in each of the first 79 STS (all but the last ST), SL ST into final ST of the round (80)

Join Yarn B. Fasten off Yarn A.

Round 33: CH1. (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 6 STS) around. Join to the top of the first SC2TOG with a SL ST. Do not fasten off; continue to instructions for Ribbed Band. (70)

Ribbed Band

Switch to smaller hook.

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Row 1: CH9. SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in remaining 7 CHS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (8, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat.

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (70 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends. Attach Lion Brand Pom (optional).
October 14, 2016