I am so excited to team up with Hobby Lobby to bring you my newest pattern – the Autumn Boho Pillow!
I’ve been playing around with different ways to do single crochet stitches to make unique designs, so when Hobby Lobby asked me to make a fun fall pattern with some of their new Yarn Bee yarn, I knew right away that I wanted to incorporate the stitches into a cozy fall pillow! I’m really loving the boho style right now – I’ve always loved tassels and fur – and this pillow incorporates all of that to produce a piece of fresh, modern fall decor.
Let’s Talk About This Yarn!
I don’t know if you’ve noticed, but over the last few months, Hobby Lobby has been adding a ton of new yarns to their Yarn Bee line. One of those yarns is called Breathe Deep, and I’m not sure what I’m more drawn to — that name, or the crazy soft yarn it represents. Breathe Deep is an airy worsted weight yarn that’s available in a range of soft, modern shades. The strands have a rustic look to them, perfect for fall, and the polyester fibers are squishy and soft. It was a dream to work with — there was very little splitting, the stitches were easy to see, and the fibers didn’t irritate my sensitive skin.
In the pattern, I used the colors “Sage”, “Ivory”, and “Brown Sugar.” Sounds like autumn to me!
The pillow is edged in Fur-Ever Style, another Yarn Bee Yarn. Even if you’re intimidated by fur yarns, give it a try! This is an easy project to practice on because we only use a little, but it adds such a cozy finishing touch.
My Second Sample
I also worked up a second sample in one of my all-time favorite yarns, Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic. This was totally a personal project and I had no intention of showing it here, but it turned out so pretty that I had to photograph it. For this pillow, I used “Red Roads” and “Okie Wheat” for the deep red and mustard colors, as well as Yarn Bee’s Must Be Merino in “Ivory” for the detailing and tassels. (Must Be Merino is actually a #3 weight yarn, but in this specific case, it doesn’t matter all that much. I grabbed it because I wanted a super smooth yarn to contrast against the heathered look of the Rustic Romantic.) I did chain 4 less in the beginning because the Rustic Romantic is a little thicker than the Breathe Deep yarn, but this pattern doesn’t have a stitch multiple, so it’s easy to adapt!
Full Video Tutorial
If you’re the type who prefers to learn by watching (I know I am!), I have a complete, start-to-finish video tutorial for you right here! Or, scroll down to view the written pattern.
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
AUTUMN BOHO PILLOW
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: Fits a standard 12″x12″ pillow insert (easily adapted to other sizes)
Hook: 4.5mm (US-7 / G) hook
Yarn: This pattern was written for Breathe Deep, a super-soft #4 worsted weight polyester yarn by Yarn Bee (a Hobby Lobby brand), and edged in Fur-Ever Style, a #4 worsted weight nylon yarn (also by Yarn Bee). Amounts used are as follows:
Breathe Deep Yarn: COLOR A (“Sage”): 185 yds
COLOR B (“Ivory”): 160 yds
COLOR C (“Brown Sugar”): 65 yds
Fur-Ever Style Yarn: FUR EDGING(“Ivory”): 65 yds
Gauge: 9SC x 11 rows = 2″ square
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 12″ square pillow insert
Terms and Abbreviations: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) SC SPIKE STITCH (single crochet spike stitch; see “Special Stitch”, below)
Special Stitch:
SC SPIKE STITCH – Instead of inserting your hook into the top loops of a stitch, insert it into the bottom of the stitch where the “V” meets. See photo (click to enlarge):
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s and CH2s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) There is no stitch multiple for this pattern. If you want to make it wider, add more chains at the beginning. If you want to make it taller, complete the repeated section more times than instructed, switching from COLOR A to COLOR C about 2/3 – 3/4 way up the pillow cover. (Be sure to chain an even number in the beginning in order to have an odd numbered stitch count, so that you can use the stitch in the very center of the pillow to place your first tassel.)
INSTRUCTIONS (make 2)
To begin: With COLOR A, CH50.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (49)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (49)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 4: Without turning your work, insert hook into the first stitch of Row 3, and attach COLOR B (Ivory). CH1. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 5A: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 5B: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH1, turn. SC SPIKE STITCH in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 6: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (49)
Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (49)
Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 9: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH2, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 10A: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 10B: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH1, turn. SC SPIKE STITCH in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 11: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (49)
Row 12: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (49)
Rows 13-47: Repeat Rows 8-12, 7 times. (49)
Switch to COLOR C; fasten off COLOR A.
Rows 48-62: Repeat Rows 8-12, 3 times, using COLOR C in place of COLOR A. (49)
At this point, measure the height of your pillow cover. We want to get it to right about 11.5″, so if you need to do a row or two more, simply continue on with the repeat. If you need to remove a row or two, that’s ok, too. The measurement is more important than the number of rows completed.
Fasten off and weave all ends into the wrong side of the pillow cover.
Edging
With right side facing you, attach COLOR B in top right stitch and CH1. SC around perimeter of square, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Tassels
With COLOR B, use the following steps to make 7 2″ tassels:
With COLOR B, cut 2 8″ lengths of yarn; set aside.
Wrap COLOR B around a 2″ tall piece of cardstock (you can use a credit card) 20 times; fasten off.
Slip one 8″ length of yarn under the strands and pull it up to the top of the card; tie a tight double knot.
Carefully remove yarn from card and cut at the opposite end from the tied-off part.
Take the other 8″ length of yarn and wrap it around the yarn, about 1/2″ below the top knot, and tie a tight double knot.
Thread into a yarn needle each end of the 2nd tie-off yarn (one at a time) and insert the needle just above the knot and down into the middle of the yarn to hide the knot.
Trim yarn at the bottom.
Attach tassel to pillow by using a yarn needle to insert each top strand around a single stitch; double knot on the opposite side and trim the ends. (This will be hidden inside the pillow cover.)
Space all 7 tassels across the pillow evenly and attach them all. Additionally, you can use a small dot of fabric glue under the ball section of the tassel to hold it in place on the pillow; use a pin to hold it where you want it while it dries overnight.
Seaming
Hold both squares together with wrong sides facing each other and right sides facing out. Attach Fur-Ever Style yarn in one corner; CH1 and SC SPIKE STITCH around 3 sides of the pillow, being sure to put 3SC SPIKE STITCHES in the same places you put the 3 SC stitches when you edged each piece individually. Stuff your pillow insert into the cover, then continue the rest of the way around the pillow until it is completely enclosed. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC, then CH1, turn, and repeat in the opposite direction (still working the spike stitches for a nice, thick ending). Join, fasten off, and weave in ends.
Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #autumnbohopillow and tag me @yarnandchai.design!
You want to know what a fun, easy, quick project is in the dead heat of summer?
Baskets!
I’ve never published basket patterns before now, and I’ll tell you why. It’s because I did not like making them. I’d made one back in the day (which still graces my dining room), but I didn’t enjoy the process because my hands just ached all the way through. Using crazy thick yarn with an unnaturally tiny hook is a recipe for wrist issues, and so the idea of ever making a basket again was not really an option for me.
Until I decided there had to be a better way!
And once I figured out how to make beautiful baskets without killing my hands, I went a little crazy and ended up designing 4 patterns. I think you’ll love this method — not only does it save you the pain, but it produces professional-grade baskets that are significantly sturdier than any crocheted baskets I’ve seen, and it all comes down to the addition of one thing – plastic canvas! (Seems obvious now, right?)
As usual, my patterns are 100% free on the blog; but if you prefer the ad-free PDF versions, you can grab the All Access Pass, which includes all four of these patterns and every single other pattern in my library!
So, scroll down, click the basket that strikes your fancy, and get ready to make a piece of beautiful decor that will last for years to come.
I had a good amount of Bernat Maker Home Dec yarn leftover after finishing up the Market Tote Bag pattern, so I started brainstorming what to use it for — and came up with these adorable mini baskets!
There’s no doubt that the mini bean stitch is the perfect stitch for a basket, and those colors are to die for. But do you want to know what really sets these baskets apart?
The reinforced sides!
That’s right. As I was working up my first flimsy basket, I kept thinking, there has to be a better way to do this. I was already using a much smaller hook than is recommended for the yarn, and even though it was producing a nice tight fabric, it just wasn’t stiff. The walls of the basket would lose their shape at the slightest touch. Once I got to the top, I thought to myself… maybe I should double layer the sides. So I did, and it helped a little, but it was still missing something. Finally it dawned on me that I had a stack of plastic canvas in my stash. I cut out some strips of it and lined them overlapping inside the basket, then folded the second layer down over it. Perfect!
They still aren’t totally indestructible, but the plastic canvas helps them hold their circular shape, and even the large basket can be picked up with one hand without drooping. It takes a little extra time to crochet up a double layer, but I think you will be so impressed with the finished product that it will be totally worth it.
These nesting baskets come in 3″, 4.5″, and 7″ widths, but once you’ve made one, resizing the pattern to fit your needs should be pretty easy to figure out.
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
Yarn: I used Bernat Maker Home Dec, a #5 bulky weight cotton/nylon blend, in colors “Cream” and “Clay.” Amounts for each basket size are listed within their individual patterns.
Hooks: H (5.0mm) and G (4.25mm)
Gauge: Your first 5 rounds should measure 2.5″ across.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker, plastic canvas
Terms and Abbreviations: MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) MBS (mini bean stitch – see Special Stitches, below) 3rd Loop (see Special Stitches, below)
Special Stitches:
Mini Bean Stitch (MBS): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through (2 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over, pull through (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 4 loops, chain 1 to close stitch. (Please note that this CH1 does count as a stitch in the final stitch counts of each round; so each MBS you complete will count for 2 stitches.)
3rd Loop: Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. For this pattern the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern. Also called Camel Stitch or RibHDC.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) IMPORTANT: Part of this pattern is worked in joined rounds, and part of it is worked seamlessly. Pay attention, and only join, chain and/or turn when specifically instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds when working seamlessly.
(3) The finished size of each basket is listed on its individual pattern.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
SMALL BASKET
Yardage: 30 yards Finished Size: 3″ wide x 1.5″ tall
To Begin: With larger hook, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (6)
Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (12)
Round 3: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (18)
Round 4: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (24)
Round 5: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. DO NOT JOIN. (30)
Rounds 6-8: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (30, or 15 beans)
Round 9: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round to join. (30, or 15 beans)
Round 10: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (30)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 11: CH1, TURN. SC in 3rd loops of each ST around. DO NOT JOIN. (30)
Rounds 12-15: SC in each ST around. DO NOT JOIN. (30)
QUICK CHECK: Remove your hook and fold the top half of the basket down into the center to create a double-layered side. The round of 3rd loops we did earlier (which looks like a braid around the edge) should be at the top of the basket, and down inside, the last round of single crochets should be touching the floor of the basket but not crowding it. You may need to add or remove a round or two of single crochets to achieve this.
To finish: Unfold your basket, reinsert your hook into the last stitch, and SL ST to the first ST of the final round. Fasten off and weave in ends. Proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas” (included at the end of the pattern).
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
MEDIUM BASKET
Yardage: 80 yards Finished Size: 4.5″ wide x 2.25″ tall
To Begin: With larger hook, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (6)
Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (12)
Round 3: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (18)
Round 4: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (24)
Round 5: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (30)
Round 6: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (36)
Round 7: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (42)
Round 8: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) around. DO NOT JOIN. (48)
Rounds 9-14: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (48, or 24 beans)
Round 15: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round to join. (48, or 24 beans)
Round 16: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (48)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 17: CH1, TURN. SC in 3rd loops of each ST around. DO NOT JOIN. (48)
Rounds 18-26: SC in each ST around. DO NOT JOIN. (48)
QUICK CHECK: Remove your hook and fold the top half of the basket down into the center to create a double-layered side. The round of 3rd loops we did earlier (which looks like a braid around the edge) should be at the top of the basket, and down inside, the last round of single crochets should be touching the floor of the basket but not crowding it. You may need to add or remove a round or two of single crochets to achieve this.
To finish: Unfold your basket, reinsert your hook into the last stitch, and SL ST to the first ST of the final round. Fasten off and weave in ends. Proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas” (included at the end of the pattern).
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
LARGE BASKET
Yardage: 160 yards Finished Size: 7″ wide x 3″ tall
To Begin: With larger hook, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (6)
Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (12)
Round 3: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (18)
Round 4: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (24)
Round 5: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (30)
Round 6: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (36)
Round 7: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (42)
Round 8: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (48)
Round 9: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (54)
Round 10: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 8 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (60)
Round 11: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Round 12: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 10 STS) around. DO NOT JOIN. (72)
Rounds 13-21: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (72, or 36 beans)
Round 22: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round to join. (72, or 36 beans)
Round 23: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (72)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 24: CH1, TURN. SC in 3rd loops of each ST around. DO NOT JOIN. (72)
Rounds 25-35: SC in each ST around. DO NOT JOIN. (72)
QUICK CHECK: Remove your hook and fold the top half of the basket down into the center to create a double-layered side. The round of 3rd loops we did earlier (which looks like a braid around the edge) should be at the top of the basket, and down inside, the last round of single crochets should be touching the floor of the basket but not crowding it. You may need to add or remove a round or two of single crochets to achieve this.
To finish: Unfold your basket, reinsert your hook into the last stitch, and SL ST to the first ST of the final round. Fasten off and weave in ends. Proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas.”
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Adding Plastic Canvas
Cut two pieces of plastic canvas that are just slightly shorter than the single crocheted portion of your basket (the part we are folding over). The length of the plastic canvas isn’t important; just cut across the entire sheet. Roll the pieces of canvas up together into a small tube and place it down inside the basket. Work with it so that it is up against the walls of the basket, and touching the floor of the basket. Then, fold the single crocheted portion of the basket into the middle, over the canvas, so that the canvas is hidden inside. Use your fingers to smooth down any wavy areas until the middle of the basket is smooth and round.
I’ve been on a basket kick lately, and while I was working on the pattern for the Mini Nesting Baskets, I decided that a new place for my favorite crochet hooks would be a great way to utilize the techniques I was exploring – mainly, the use of plastic canvas to make a strong, sturdy basket! So I whipped up this cute little basket for my desk and now I’m wondering why I didn’t make my own hook holder a long time ago.
Of course, there could be many applications for this little guy. Pens and pencils, candy, buttons… it could hold just about any little objects you can think of.
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
Yarn: I used about 110 yards of Bernat Maker Home Dec, a #5 bulky weight cotton/nylon blend, in “Clay.”
Hooks: H (5.0mm) and G (4.25mm)
Gauge: Your first 5 rounds should measure 2.5″ across.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker, plastic canvas
Terms and Abbreviations: MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) MBS (mini bean stitch – see Special Stitches, below) 3rd Loop (see Special Stitches, below)
Special Stitches:
Mini Bean Stitch (MBS): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through (2 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over, pull through (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 4 loops, chain 1 to close stitch. (Please note that this CH1 does count as a stitch in the final stitch counts of each round; so each MBS you complete will count for 2 stitches.)
3rd Loop: Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. For this pattern the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern. Also called Camel Stitch or RibHDC.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) IMPORTANT: Part of this pattern is worked in joined rounds, and part of it is worked seamlessly. Pay attention, and only join, chain and/or turn when specifically instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds when working seamlessly.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
INSTRUCTIONS
To Begin: With larger hook, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (6)
Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (12)
Round 3: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (18)
Round 4: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (24)
Round 5: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (30)
Round 6: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (36)
Round 7: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. DO NOT JOIN. (42)
Rounds 8-19: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (42, or 21 beans)
Round 20: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round to join. (42, or 21 beans)
Round 21: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (42)
Round 22: CH1, TURN. SC in 3rd loops of each ST around. DO NOT JOIN. (42)
Switch to smaller hook.
Rounds 23-39: SC in each ST around. DO NOT JOIN. (42)
QUICK CHECK: Remove your hook and fold the top half of the basket down into the center to create a double-layered side. The round of 3rd loops we did earlier (which looks like a braid around the edge) should be at the top of the basket, and down inside, the last round of single crochets should be touching the floor of the basket but not crowding it. You may need to add or remove a round or two of single crochets to achieve this.
To finish: Unfold your basket, reinsert your hook into the last stitch, and SL ST to the first ST of the final round. Fasten off and weave in ends.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Adding Plastic Canvas
Cut across your plastic canvas to make strips that are the same height as the inner layer of the basket. Set your basket so that it is completely unfolded. Roll up a strip of canvas and insert it into the bottom of the basket, allowing it to expand up against the walls of the basket. Continue adding as many layers as you want to make it as stiff as you want. Fold the inside layer down over the canvas. Work the fabric until it all lays neat and flat.
Here’s a quick tutorial video that explains what plastic canvas is, where to buy it, and how to use it in Yarn + Chai basket patterns:
I am so excited about this pattern! I am totally in love with the effect on the outside of these baskets. I just feel like the finished product is so unique and I love how the two different yarn colors come together to form what reminds me of a piece of mosaic art. And the best part is, it’s so easy to do!
Choosing Your Yarn
The first thing you need to do is decide what yarns to use. I highly recommend starting with a neutral-colored bulky yarn, such as white, ivory, or gray. I used Bernat Maker Home Dec in “Cream” as the base for my baskets in the sample photos. Next, you need to choose a worsted weight yarn that will work well with your base color… and this is where you get to go a little crazy, because there are so many options! In the main photo above, I used one of my favorite colorways, Urban Chic in “Juneberry Breeze”. In the baskets pictured below, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in Aqua Blue Gradient:
And here it is in the medium size with Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton in “Pink/Teal/Orange” (that’s one colorway):
If you go with a color-changing yarn like I did, make sure the color changes aren’t toooooooo long. I love a nice gradual change, but as you can see on the main photos (with the Aqua Blue Gradient yarn), the yarn didn’t really change throughout the entire large-sized basket. I actually had to pull out quite a bit of yarn to get to a significant color change so that the smaller matching baskets wouldn’t be exactly the same.
About Those Cute Leather Tags
Those adorable tags on my baskets aren’t actually leather at all – they’re cork! I had mine printed by All This Wood (affiliate link). They always do a great job for me. If you purchase tags of your own through this link, you won’t pay any extra, but I’ll get a small percentage of the sale. My affiliate links are just one of the ways I am able to keep releasing free patterns, so I am always incredibly appreciative of anyone who uses them!
Video Tutorial
As simple as this pattern really is, I knew as I was typing it up that it wasn’t going to sound as simple on the page. Sometimes it’s easier to just watch someone else make it, so I’ve put together a video tutorial to assist you throughout. And like all Yarn + Chai tutorials, the pattern is written in full right on the screen so that you can follow along. I get tons of compliments about this tutorial feature, so it’s definitely worth the extra effort it takes to include it!
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
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Yarn: I used Bernat Maker Home Dec (a #5 bulky weight cotton/nylon blend) in “Cream”, and Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn (a #4 worsted weight acrylic) in “Aqua Blue”. Yarn amounts are listed with individual pattern sizes.
Hooks: H (5.0mm) and G (4.25mm)
Gauge: Your first 5 rounds should measure 2.5″ across.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker, plastic canvas
Terms and Abbreviations: MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) SC Spike Stitch (see Special Stitches, below) 3rd Loop (see Special Stitches, below)
Special Stitches:
SC Spike Stitch: Instead of inserting your hook into the top loops of the stitch, insert them into its base, then complete an SC. This will wrap your SCs over the top of the SCs from the previous round.
SL ST Spike Stitch: Follow instructions for SC Spike Stitch, but instead of completing an SC, complete a SL ST.
3rd Loop: Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. For this pattern the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing away from you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, reach over the two top loops and insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the right side of the pattern. Also called Camel Stitch or RibHDC.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) IMPORTANT: Most of this pattern is worked seamlessly, but a small portion is worked in joined rounds. Pay attention, and only join, chain and/or turn when specifically instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds when working seamlessly.
(3) The finished size of each basket is listed on its individual pattern.
(4) Because we utilize the SC Spike Stitch for entire rounds throughout the pattern, we will be referring to those rounds as an extension of the SC rounds they are being worked into. For example, if Round 15 is a round of SC, then the very next round which places spike stitches on top of those SCs will be referred to as Round 15B. This just makes for easier counting.
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SMALL BASKET
Yardage: 50 yards bulky, 20 yards worsted or DK Finished Size: 3.5″ wide x 2.25″ tall
To Begin: With larger hook and bulky yarn, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)
Round 2: 2SC in each ST around. (12)
Round 3: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)
Round 4: (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (24)
Round 5: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (30)
Round 6: (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)
Round 7: SC in each ST around. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (36)
Round 7B: Insert hook into top loops of next ST; attach worsted weight yarn and CH1; SC in same ST. SC Spike Stitch into next ST and each remaining ST. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (36)
Round 8: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each ST around (you’re working in the top loops of the SC Spike Stitches from the previous round). Remove hook. (36)
Round 8B: Reinsert hook into loop from worsted yarn. SC Spike Stitch in each ST around. Remove hook. (36)
Rounds 9-11B: Repeat Rounds 8-8B. (36)
Round 12: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each of the next 34 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. Remove hook. (36)
Round 12B: Reinsert hook into loop from worsted yarn. SC Spike Stitch into each of the next 34 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST Spike Stitch into each of the remaining 2 STS. Remove hook. (36)
Fasten off thinner yarn – you won’t need it anymore.
Round 13: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. Join with a SL ST to the next ST (the first ST of the previous round). CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first HDC. (36)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 14: CH1. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Do not join. (36)
Rounds 15-21: SC in each ST around. (36)
Round 22: SC in each of the next 34 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (36)
Fasten off and weave in ends. Proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas” (after instructions for large basket).
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MEDIUM BASKET
Yardage: 95 yards bulky, 40 yards worsted or DK Finished Size: 5″ wide x 2.75″ tall
To Begin: With larger hook and bulky yarn, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)
Round 2: 2SC in each ST around. (12)
Round 3: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)
Round 4: (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (24)
Round 5: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (30)
Round 6: (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)
Round 7: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (42)
Round 8: (SC in each of the next 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (48)
Round 9: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (54)
Round 10: SC in each ST around. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (54)
Round 10B: Insert hook into top loops of next ST; attach worsted weight yarn and CH1; SC in same ST. SC Spike Stitch into next ST and each remaining ST. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (54)
Round 11: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each ST around (you’re working in the top loops of the SC Spike Stitches from the previous round). Remove hook. (54)
Round 11B: Reinsert hook into loop from worsted yarn. SC Spike Stitch in each ST around. Remove hook. (54)
Rounds 12-16B: Repeat Rounds 11-11B. (54)
Round 17: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each of the next 52 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. Remove hook. (54)
Round 17B: Reinsert hook into loop from worsted yarn. SC Spike Stitch into each of the next 52 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST Spike Stitch into each of the remaining 2 STS. Remove hook. (54)
Fasten off worsted yarn – you won’t need it anymore.
Round 18: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. Join with a SL ST to the next ST (the first ST of the previous round). CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first HDC. (54)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 19: CH1. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Do not join. (54)
Rounds 20-29: SC in each ST around. (54)
Round 30: SC in each of the next 52 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (54)
Fasten off and weave in ends. Proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas” (after instructions for large basket).
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LARGE BASKET
Yardage: 145 yards bulky, 60 yards worsted or DK Finished Size: 6.5″ wide x 3″ tall
To Begin: With larger hook and bulky yarn, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)
Round 2: 2SC in each ST around. (12)
Round 3: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)
Round 4: (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (24)
Round 5: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (30)
Round 6: (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)
Round 7: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (42)
Round 8: (SC in each of the next 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (48)
Round 9: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (54)
Round 10: (SC in each of the next 4 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (60)
Round 11: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around. (66)
Round 12: (SC in each of the next 5 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (72)
Round 13: SC in each ST around. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (72)
Round 13B: Insert hook into top loops of next ST; attach worsted weight yarn and CH1; SC in same ST. SC Spike Stitch into next ST and each remaining ST. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (72)
Round 14: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each ST around (you’re working in the top loops of the SC Spike Stitches from the previous round). Remove hook. (72)
Round 14B: Reinsert hook into loop from worsted yarn. SC Spike Stitch in each ST around. Remove hook. (72)
Rounds 15-21B: Repeat Rounds 14-14B. (72)
Round 22: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each of the next 70 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. Remove hook. (72)
Round 22-B: Reinsert hook into loop from worsted yarn. SC Spike Stitch into each of the next 70 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST Spike Stitch into each of the remaining 2 STS. Remove hook. (72)
Fasten off worsted yarn – you won’t need it anymore.
Round 23: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. Join with a SL ST to the next ST (the first ST of the previous round). CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first HDC. (72)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 24: CH1. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Do not join. (72)
Rounds 25-36: SC in each ST around. (72)
Round 37: SC in each of the next 70 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (72)
Fasten off and weave in ends. Proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas”.
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Adding Plastic Canvas
Cut across your plastic canvas to make strips that are the same height as the inner layer of the basket. Set your basket so that it is completely unfolded. Roll up a strip of canvas and insert it into the bottom of the basket, allowing it to expand up against the walls of the basket. Continue adding as many layers as you want to make it as stiff as you want. Fold the inside layer down over the canvas. Work the fabric until it all lays neat and flat.
You’re done!
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your baskets on social media, be sure to use hashtag #ycmosaicbasket and tag me @yarnandchai.design!
I love nautical decor. (Sidenote – the word “nautical” always makes me giggle because my boys love the movie “Boss Baby” and there’s a part where the older brother is trying to get the baby into this obnoxious blue and white striped outfit and the baby screams “I DON’T DO NAUTICAL! IT’S NOT EVEN FRIDAY!” My boys ran around the house for like a week yelling that line before they finally asked me one day, “Mommy, what does nautical mean?” But I digress.)
If you love the feel of the ocean breeze as much as I do, you’ll love making these super easy baskets that look like something out of a catalog. If you haven’t done grommets or eyelets on a crochet project before, don’t run away. I promise it’s easy-peasy. And you can’t beat the professional finishing touch they give to these baskets!
How It’s Constructed
I make my baskets a little different than the traditional way. I’ve made baskets before and never found them enjoyable because they required such tiny hooks to get the thick yarn nice and stiff, and even then, they weren’t that stiff. And my hands always ached. So, for my baskets, I use a double-layer method that relies on plastic canvas to get them really stiff and sturdy. It requires a little extra time, but a whole lot less wrist pain!
Choosing Your Yarn
For the Nautical Baskets, you’ll want to look for a #5 weight (chunky/bulky) yarn. I used Bernat Maker Outdoor, which is an acrylic/nylon mix, but there are many chunky yarns out there that will work. Just find something that you like the look of and has the colors you want to use, and avoid anything that’s super soft.
Choosing Your Colors
With a nautical theme in mind, I chose navy and white for my basket. But of course, you can use any color(s) you want! I think a deep red and white would be a beautiful compliment to the navy and white.
Additional Features
I add extra little features to my patterns whenever I can, because I think a little fabric or metal can add such a professional touch to handmade items. Here’s what I used in these baskets:
Rope Handles
You can find rope at pretty much any craft store, often in several different departments, sold in packages or by-the-yard; just look for the 3/8″ size. For this project, I chose a natural rope that I had leftover from another project. For the large basket, you’ll need two 20″ lengths. For the small basket, you’ll need two 16″ lengths.
Eyelets (optional)
If you’re wondering what those metallic circles are where the rope attaches to my basket – they’re eyelets! They give the basket such a professional finished look, and they are not hard to install – you just need a hammer and a little confidence. And if you really don’t want to put eyelets on your basket, that’s ok. You can simply feed the rope through the holes we create and they should stay put just fine.
If you have a Hobby Lobby nearby, you’ll find an eyelet kit in the sewing notions section. Make sure you grab the one with the setting tool included if you don’t already have one! You can also buy the setting tool separate and then choose your eyelet color (I picked silver). Either way, you’re looking for 15/32″ (12mm) eyelets and you need 4 per basket. Watch for the sale, and you’ll score it all for 50% off.
Metallic Embellishment
These are becoming more and more popular at the big box craft stores, and you’ll usually find them in the scrapbooking section. I found both the Emerson quote and the anchor at Michael’s. (The anchor actually came in a set of two.)
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
Finished Size: 9″ wide x 8″ tall (large basket) and 6″ wide x 5.5″ tall (small basket)
Hook: H (5.0mm) and G (4.25mm). Because we’re using a small hook for a chunky yarn, make sure to protect your hands by using hooks with padded grips. I absolutely love my Clover Amour hooks!
Yarn: I used Bernat Maker Outdoor for my baskets, but most #5 weight chunky/bulky yarns will work; just avoid anything that’s super soft. For the large basket, you will need about 330 yards of COLOR A (I used “Navy Ink”) and 165 yards of COLOR B (I used “Fresh White”). For the small basket, you will need about 170 yards of COLOR A and 75 yards of COLOR B.
Gauge: With your larger hook, your first 8 rounds should measure 3.75″ wide.
You’ll also need:
Yarn needle
Scissors
Two 20″ (large basket) or 16″ (small basket) lengths of 3/8″ twisted rope for handles (available at craft stores)
Optional but recommended: Size 15/32″ (12mm) eyelet kit. Each basket needs 4 eyelets. You don’t have to add these but they will give your basket a beautiful, professional finished look.
Hammer (if using eyelets)
Plastic Canvas – look for the large sheets of ultra stiff, and get a couple per basket. If you can’t find the large sheets, that’s ok; just grab a couple extra of the smaller ones.
Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet)
Special Stitch: Magic Circle (view my tutorial here)
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in joined rounds. Some rounds are turned and some are not, so pay attention. CH1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.
(3) The increases for this pattern are done in what I call a “Smooth Circle Base.” Normally when doing standard SC increase rounds, the more rounds you do, the more your circle will start to look like a hexagon (due to the height of the SC increases stacking up on each other). Because we do 16 increase rounds on the large basket, the effect is rather severe. So instead of a standard increase pattern, we are using a modified increase pattern that will result in a much nicer, rounded circle.
(4) When switching colors, you do not need to fasten off the previous color unless the instructions say to; you can simply carry it up the inside of basket. It won’t show in the end.
(5) The instructions for adding the eyelets are included after the written patterns, but the eyelets need to be installed in the middle of the pattern. This is noted in the patterns at the proper time. So when you get to that part, skip down to the eyelet instructions, then return to the pattern to complete it.
(6) The chunky yarn is too thick for the eyelets to attach through both layers, so they will only show on the outside of the basket.
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INSTRUCTIONS (Large Basket)
To begin: With COLOR A and H (5.0mm) hook, make a magic circle; CH1.
Round 1: 6SC in MC; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (6)
Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (12)
Round 3: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in next ST. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (18)
Round 4: CH1. SC in first ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST. (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (24)
Round 5: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (30)
Round 6: CH1. SC in each of the first 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS. (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (36)
Round 7: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (42)
Round 8: CH1. SC in each of the first 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS. (SC in each of the next 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (48)
Round 9: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (54)
Round 10: CH1. SC in each of the first 4 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS. (SC in each of the next 4 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (60)
Round 11: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Round 12: CH1. SC in each of the first 5 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS. (SC in each of the next 5 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (72)
Round 13: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 11 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 11 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (78)
Round 14: CH1. SC in each of the first 6 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS. (SC in each of the next 6 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (84)
Round 15: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 13 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 13 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (90)
Round 16: CH1. SC in each of the first 7 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS. (SC in each of the next 7 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Rounds 17-19: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 20-22: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 23-25: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 26-28: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 29-31: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 32-34: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 35-37: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 38-40: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 41-43: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 44-46: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A; fasten off COLOR B.
Round 47: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Rounds 48-50: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Round 51: CH1, TURN. SC in each of the first 12 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 20 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 20 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (88 + 4 CH2 spaces)
Round 52: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around, putting 2SC in each CH2 space from the previous round. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Rounds 53-55: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
If you’re adding eyelets, STOP HERE and attach them now in each of the 4 holes we created in Round 51, then return to the pattern to complete it. (It will be much harder to do later.) See instructions following pattern for Small Basket.
Switch to G (4.25mm) hook.
Rounds 56-58: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Round 59: CH1, TURN. SC in each of the first 12 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 20 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 20 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (88 + 4 CH2 spaces) (Note: The holes you just created should be directly above the holes you created in Round 51.)
Round 60: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around, putting 2SC in each CH2 space from the previous round. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Rounds 61-63: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B (you fastened it off earlier but you can reattach it now).
Round 64: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Rounds 65-66: CH1, DO NOT turn. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 67-69: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 70-72: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 73-75: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 76-78: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 79-81: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 82-84: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 85-87: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 88-90: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 91-93: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Fasten off and weave in all ends. See sections on “Adding Plastic Canvas” and “Adding Rope Handles” to complete project.
INSTRUCTIONS (Small Basket)
To begin: With COLOR A and H (5.0mm) hook, make a magic circle; CH1.
Round 1: 6SC in MC; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (6)
Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (12)
Round 3: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in next ST. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (18)
Round 4: CH1. SC in first ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST. (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (24)
Round 5: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (30)
Round 6: CH1. SC in each of the first 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS. (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (36)
Round 7: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (42)
Round 8: CH1. SC in each of the first 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS. (SC in each of the next 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (48)
Round 9: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (54)
Round 10: CH1. SC in each of the first 4 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS. (SC in each of the next 4 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (60)
Round 11: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Rounds 12-14: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 15-17: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 18-20: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 21-23: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 24-26: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 27-29: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR A; fasten off COLOR B.
Round 30: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Rounds 31-33: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Round 34: CH1, TURN. SC in each of the first 8 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 13 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 16 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 13 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 8 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (58 + 4 CH2 spaces)
Round 35: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around, putting 2SC in each CH2 space from the previous round. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Rounds 36-38: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
If you’re adding eyelets, STOP HERE and attach them now in each of the 4 holes we created in Round 34, then return to the pattern to complete it. (It will be much harder to do later.) See instructions following this pattern.
Switch to G (4.25mm) hook.
Rounds 39-41: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Round 42: CH1, TURN. SC in each of the first 8 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 13 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 16 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 13 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 8 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (58 + 4 CH2 spaces) (Note: The holes you just created should be directly above the holes you created in Round 34.)
Round 43: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around, putting 2SC in each CH2 space from the previous round. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Rounds 44-46: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR B (you fastened it off earlier but you can reattach it now).
Round 47: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Rounds 48-49: CH1, DO NOT turn. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 50-52: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 53-55: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 56-58: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 59-61: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 62-64: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Fasten off and weave in all ends. See sections on “Adding Plastic Canvas” and “Adding Rope Handles” to complete project.
– – – – – – – – – – –
ATTACHING EYELETS OR GROMMETS
Open your eyelet or grommet kit and retrieve the following items:
Follow the instructions on your eyelet/grommet kit to add eyelets/grommets to each of the four holes of the basket. (Please note that if your instructions include anything about punching a hole in the fabric, you do not need to do this step because we crocheted holes right into our fabric.) You can watch my tutorial video for the Malia Shoulder Bag to see exactly how eyelets are installed; I demonstrate it at the 19:11 mark (the video below is cued to that moment). A few tips to keep in mind:
Do this on a solid, sturdy surface. Your hard floor is ok; a concrete garage floor is best.
Make sure you are inserting the eyelet from the outside of the basket, through to the inside (not the other way around).
Don’t go too crazy with the hammering or you’ll split and break the eyelet.
– – – – – – – – – – –
ADDING PLASTIC CANVAS
Cut across your plastic canvas to make strips that will fit inside the basket and come up to just below the eyelets. Set your basket so that it is completely unfolded (image 1). Insert plastic canvas into the bottom of the basket, using as many layers as you want to make it as stiff as you want (image 2). Fold the inside layer down over the canvas (image 3). Work the fabric until it all lays neat and flat (image 4).
You can watch my Plastic Canvas tutorial video if you need help with what plastic canvas is, where to buy it, or how to use it; the only difference is that in the video, I’m not using a basket with eyelets so the canvas in the demo comes all the way to the top of the basket. But you’ll get the idea.
– – – – – – – – – – –
ADDING ROPE HANDLES
Locate the seam of your basket, then locate the nearest eyelet to the right of the seam. Take your first rope handle and tie a piece of scotch tape around the end, and insert it through the eyelets as well as the corresponding hole on the inside layer of the basket. Tie a knot near the bottom of the rope on the inside of the basket and pull it tight (you can use your eyelet to help by gently but firmly pulling the rope from the outside of the basket, which will pull the knot against the eyelet and tighten it up). Then, use good scissors to cut the excess rope close to the knot. Moving farther away from your basket’s seam to the next available eyelet, insert the other end of the rope through it and repeat the process. That’s your first handle. For your second handle, start at the seam again and locate the nearest eyelet to the left of the seam. Repeat the entire process for the 2nd handle. (Neither handle should cross over the seam.)
Note that you’ll want both handles to be the same length, so be sure to compare them when you’re about to tie your final knot to ensure that the handle sizes match.
– – – – – – – – – – –
That’s it – you’re done! If you’re showing off your work, be sure to hashtag #ycnauticalbasket and tag me @yarnandchai.design!
Waaaaaay back when I started writing patterns, I wrote a pattern for a Market Tote Bag. The pattern was not especially well-written (hey, I’ve come a long way in 4 years), and was missing some information. I’d always meant to go back and rewrite it, but kept putting it off because it wasn’t a popular pattern. Well, all that changed when some of the girls in my super awesome Facebook group discovered it and started showing off their finished bags, inspiring many others to find and make the pattern as well. I figured I had better get it fixed up!
So what’s different?
Besides updated language that better matches my current easy-to-understand pattern lingo, I also changed the yarn I used for a couple different reasons. First of all, the original pattern called for acrylic yarn, which is fine, but since those days I’ve discovered that cotton is so much better for a bag like this. Also, the original pattern called for a #4 weight yarn, but when I went to remake it, I couldn’t get the base as large as it needed to be, no matter what I did. Yup, that’s right – same yarn, same hook, same crocheter, and a completely different tension from 4 years ago! (This is why I’m always saying check your gauge, people!) Anyways, I had to decide whether to stay true to the stitch counts or the yarn weight, and I chose the stitch counts. I switched to a #5 bulky weight yarn called Bernat Maker Home Dec, which is a wonderful, easy yarn to work with. I also upped the hook sizes to accommodate the yarn change.
So, if you happened to be right in the middle of making the Market Tote Bag from the previous pattern, don’t worry – the pattern, as far as stitch counts go, is the same as it was before.
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Finished Size: 14″ wide x 16″ tall; straps add an additional 14″ (and they will stretch a bit)
Yarn: Approx. 435 yards of Bernat Maker Home Dec, a #5 bulky weight cotton/nylon blend. I used 310 yards of COLOR A (“Cream”) and 125 yards of COLOR B (“Clay”).
Hooks: N (9.00 mm) and K (6.5mm)
Gauge: With N (9mm) hook, your first 3 rounds should measure 4.5″ across.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker
Terms and Abbreviations: MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) DC (double crochet) SC+DC (put an SC and a DC in the same stitch)
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This bag, including its handles, is worked in a continuous, seamless round. Do not join or turn unless specifically instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds.
(3) To make this pattern with a different yarn weight, continue to increase the base until it measures about 8.5″ across. You will need to refigure the placement of the straps.
(4) If you use two colors as I did, your first color will require almost all of the skein. If you run out of yarn too soon, you can remove a round in the body of the bag to accommodate.
INSTRUCTIONS
To Begin: With larger hook and COLOR A, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: In magic circle: 1SC, 1HDC, 10DC. (12)
Round 2: 2DC in each ST around. (24)
Round 3: (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. (36)
Round 4: (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (48)
Round 5: (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (60)
Round 6: (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (72)
Rounds 7-28: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (72)
Round 29: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) 35 times; 2 STS remain. 2SC in next ST; SK final ST. (72)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 30: SC in each ST around. (72)
Switch to COLOR B (optional); fasten off COLOR A.
Rounds 31-36: SC in each ST around. (72)
Round 37 (creating the handles): CH90. SK 20 STS; SC in each of the next 16 STS. CH90. SK 20 STS; SC in each of the next 16 STS. (32SC + 180CH)
Round 38: SC in each of the 90 chains. SC in each of the next 16 STS along the top. SC in each of the next 90 chains. SC in each of the next 16 STS along the top. (212)
Rounds 39-41: SC in each ST around (continuing to go up and down the handles). (212)
To finish: SL ST to the first SC of the final round. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Edging the Handles
We’re going to add an SC edging to give the handles just a little bit more strength. With bag right side out, reattach yarn in the bottom left corner of one of the handles and CH1. SC in same ST, and continue to SC in each chain stitch going up and down the handle. Continue to SC in each ST across the top of the bag (the area between the beginning and the ending of the handle). Join with a SL ST to the first SC. Fasten off yarn, then repeat the process on the other handle. Fasten off and weave in ends.
I’m all about challenging myself in crochet, but sometimes I just need a simple pattern to relax with at the end of a long day. This blanket pattern, made completely of single crochet stitches, has been wonderful for that purpose!
I’ve been wanting to design an all-single-crochet blanket because I think the effect is so modern and sleek. Sometimes we get so caught up in thinking we need fancy stitches that we forget how modern a simple, clean design can look. Remember, if you’re gifting a blanket to a new mom with modern taste, she’s not going to care so much about fancy stitchwork – in fact, the fancier the stitchwork, the more “old-fashioned” the project can look. I can almost guarantee that she just wants a cute, soft blanket to wrap her baby in!
I chose the name “Summer Boardwalk Baby Blanket” because the colors remind me so much of the beach, and the multicolored sections remind me of the run-down wooden planks that often line a beach boardwalk.
About the Yarn
I chose Hobby Lobby’s Sweet Delight yarn (from their Baby Bee line) for this project, which is an acrylic baby yarn that is pleasantly soft. Sweet Delight is a really interesting line of DK (that’s #3 weight) yarn, because it boasts a mixture of coordinating solids as well as self-striping, marled, speckled, and variegated colorways, all working together to give you awesome options for colorwork. When I chose the colors for this blanket, I stood in the yarn aisle and searched for a self-striping skein that I loved, then chose three solids that matched the colors contained within it. I also grabbed a white for what has become sort of my signature blanket look – the ribbing on both edges. (So much more modern-looking than a full border!)
Beware, if you choose a different multi-colored yarn than I did to start with (for instance if you wanted to make a girly blanket), some of the multi-colored yarns in the line have long color changes, and some are more of a variegated… and it’s not easy to tell the difference at first glance! I learned this the hard way when I grabbed a skein of this beautiful white, lavender and green mixture. When I got home and started working with it, I discovered it was variegated (meaning, the color changes happened every couple of inches). You might like variegated yarns, but I’m not a huge fan of them, so I didn’t end up using it. If you want to avoid variegated, very carefully inspect the skein before you purchase it and make sure the color changes are more than a couple inches long. (Don’t destroy the skein and put it back on the shelf; that’s not cool.)
Lately, Hobby Lobby has been having this awesome 30% off all yarn sale every other week. I grabbed my yarn on sale week and at $5.29 retail price for 6 skeins, I was able to make this entire blanket for $23. Not bad!
One last thing. I don’t think of myself as a yarn snob, but I am sensitive to scratchy yarns. And when it comes to baby blankets, my standards are especially high. If you’re the same and are wondering how soft this yarn really is, I promise you, it’s soft! For an acrylic yarn, I was thrilled. You know how some yarns feel squishy soft in the skein but then when you start working them up, they just don’t feel that soft anymore? This one maintains its softness. Some of the colors felt softer than others, but I was not a bit disappointed in any of them. This baby blanket is actually a gift for my sister, who is giving birth to my newest nephew this week, if that tells you anything!
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Yarn: Approx. 1,200 yards of #3 DK weight in 5 colors. To achieve the effect in the sample blanket, you’ll need to choose a self-striping yarn and a contrast color (for the ribbing) then choose 3 solid colors that coordinate with the self-striping yarn. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee Sweet Delight (from Hobby Lobby) in the following colors and amounts:
COLOR A (“Angel”) – 145 yards (this is the ribbing) COLOR B (“Tricycle Time”) – 510* yards (this is the self-striping yarn) *This is a correction from the previously-published 340 yards COLOR C (“Surf Baby”) – 170 yards (this is the aqua) COLOR D (“Cloudy”) – 170 yards (this is the light tan) COLOR E (“Toy Elephant”) – 170 yards (this is the dark tan-gray)
Gauge: 19 SC x 25 rows = 4″ square
You’ll also need: Yarn needle
Terms and Abbreviations: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) BLO (back loop only)
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) Whenever the instructions tell you to switch to a new color, you can fasten off the previous color.
(4) There is no stitch multiple for this pattern. If you want to make it wider, add rows to the first ribbing section. If you want to make it longer, simply repeat the color blocks, or make them thicker.
INSTRUCTIONS
TOP RIBBING
With COLOR A, CH11.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (10)
Rows 2-134 (or until ribbing measures about 29-30″ long): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 8 STS. SC in final ST. (10)
– – – – – – – – – –
BODY (Row count restarts back to 1)
Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC in each row end along the long edge of the ribbing. (134, or however many ribbing rows you completed)
Rows 2-4 (3 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)
– – – – – – – – – –
Switch to COLOR B.
Rows 5-34 (30 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)
– – – – – – – – – –
Switch to COLOR A.
Rows 35-38 (4 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)
– – – – – – – – – –
Switch to COLOR C.
Rows 39-68 (30 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)
– – – – – – – – – –
Switch to COLOR A.
Rows 69-72 (4 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)
– – – – – – – – – –
Switch to COLOR B.
Rows 73-102 (30 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)
– – – – – – – – – –
Switch to COLOR A.
Rows 103-106 (4 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)
– – – – – – – – – –
Switch to COLOR D.
Rows 107-136 (30 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)
– – – – – – – – – –
Switch to COLOR A.
Rows 137-140 (4 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)
– – – – – – – – – –
Switch to COLOR B.
Rows 141-170 (30 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)
– – – – – – – – – –
Switch to COLOR A.
Rows 171-174 (4 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)
– – – – – – – – – –
Switch to COLOR E.
Rows 175-204 (30 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)
– – – – – – – – – –
Switch to COLOR A.
Rows 205-208 (4 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)
– – – – – – – – – – – – – –
BOTTOM RIBBING
In this section, we will be creating the bottom ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the body as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 208” quite a bit; that’s the last row of the body of the blanket we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to. If you need a little extra help, check out my tutorial on how to add ribbing at the end of a crochet project.
CH11.
Row 1: Turn. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 9 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Row 208, the stitch on which your CH11 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Row 208. (10, plus the two slip stitches along Row 208)
The section we just created, built on the CH11, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 208, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 9 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Row 208. (10, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 208)
Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 208, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)
Rows 5-134: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way across Row 208. (10)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
– – – – – – – – – –
Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #summerboardwalkbabyblanket and tag me @yarnandchai.design!
A CAL (Crochet-Along) is an online event where a pattern is released in segments over the course of a number of weeks, and a community of crocheters works on it together. The Malia Shoulder Bag CAL will begin on March 13 and last for 3 weeks. For this CAL, I’ll be keeping everything on this page; I’ll just update the page each time a new part of the pattern is released. The schedule is as follows:
Week 1: Base of bag (available below) Week 2: Body of bag (available below) Week 3: Seaming, shaping & handles (available now)
Join my Crochet-Along Facebook Group
Life is better together, right? That’s the heart behind a crochet-along, too! If you’re on Facebook and want to join our private group to ask questions, post progress pics, or just meet new friends while you work through the CAL, request your invite by clicking here.
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Choosing Your Yarn
For the Malia Shoulder Bag, you’ll want to look for a sturdy, worsted weight cotton yarn. I used and highly recommend Lion Brand’s 24/7 Cotton (get it on Craftsy or Amazon); it’s durable, washes beautifully, and is very easy to work with. It is mercerized and comes in 24 bright shades, and whatever color(s) you choose, you can be sure it will deliver amazing stitch definition and just the right amount of sheen. (I also used 24/7 Cotton for my Classic Beach Bag, which I’ve been carrying around as a purse every day since August. I’ve spilled orange pop and coffee on it, stuffed it way too full, and let my son teethe on it, and it looks as nice as it did the day I made it.)
While I can’t say I’ve ever come across a perfect substitute for 24/7 Cotton, Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton and Knitpicks’ Dishie might be suitable alternatives. If you know of another sturdy worsted cotton, mention it in the comments below!
Choosing Your Colors
I chose a silvery gray for the body of the bag and a bright white for a nice contrast at the top. When choosing your colors, keep in mind that a solid color will show off the texture more so than a multi-colored yarn. For a modern look, limit yourself to two colors and keep at least one of them neutral (gray, taupe, white, etc). Or, keep it simple and timeless with a single-colored bag!
If you’re looking for inspiration, scroll down below the pattern to see a gallery of finished bags created by the CAL participants.
Everything You Need to Know About Those Rope Handles
The rope handles are my favorite feature of this bag! You can find rope at pretty much any craft store, sold in packages or by-the-yard; just look for the 3/8″ size. The rope I used was found at Joann Fabrics in the trim section and is technically called “twisted cord”. It’s a cotton/polyester blend and has a casing on it that gives it this really pretty sheen that looks sooooo good with the 24/7 Cotton yarn. The really cool thing about it is that (at least at Joann Fabrics) it was available in several colors! I already had white in mind when I designed the bag, but I can absolutely see myself making other bags and incorporating colored handles. So fun!
If you’re wondering what those metallic circles are where the rope attaches to my bag – they’re eyelets. I highly recommend them, but I’ve outlined 3 different options below, and I urge you to read through them to decide which option is best for you:
Option 1: Eyelet (Or Grommet) Kit I used an eyelet kit for my bag, and I know that “I used an eyelet kit” might be a foreign enough phrase to turn many of you off to the idea, but WAIT! It is NOT hard, and it doesn’t take any expensive equipment. But it will give your bag a durability that is unmatched. Combined with the rope (i.e. not crocheted) handles, your bag will be strong and very stretch-resistant. For our purposes, the only difference between eyelets and grommets is how heavy-duty they are; grommets being the tougher of the two. But, for this project I used eyelets, and they worked just fine. It really just comes down to what you can find.
If you have a Hobby Lobby, you’ll find an eyelet kit in the sewing notions section. You can buy the two-piece setting tool separate for $7.99 and then choose your eyelet color for $2.99 (I picked silver), or you can buy them in a package together but your color options are limited. You’re looking for 15/32″ (12mm) eyelets. Watch for the sale, and you’ll score it all for 50% off. If you go with grommets, I recommend this 1/2″ grommet kit from Amazon, which I used for my Classic Beach Bag.
Option 2: Washer If you don’t want to mess with an eyelet kit, you can also simply thread the rope through a single washer so that it rests between the knot and the bag, which will give the handles something strong to pull on (taking the pressure off of the crocheted part of the bag). It will work basically the same way as an eyelet, it just won’t look as finished and may move around a bit when gravity is not pulling the bag down.
Option 3:Nothing Of course, you can simply stick your rope handles through the hole that we create, tie your knots big enough that they won’t come back through the hole, and call it good. Your bag will stretch more, though.
Optional Embellishment
The cute little metal piece on the top of the bag, which on any other bag might show off the purse company’s logo, is actually from the scrapbooking section at Hobby Lobby! (I saw the same ones at Joann Fabrics.) It came in a package of 12, each with a different cutesy phrase. I chose “Live In the Moment” for my bag.
Malia Shoulder Bag
Difficulty: Easyish
Finished Size: 15.5″ width x 12″ height x 6″ depth
Yarn: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in 2 colors. 24/7 Cotton is a worsted-weight, mercerized yarn. You will need 675 yards / 4 skeins of COLOR A (I used “Silver”) and 100 yards / 1 skein of COLOR B (I used “White”). If using one color, you’ll need 775 yards total.
Gauge: 10 rows of 10 SC = 2″ square
You’ll also need:
Yarn needle
Scissors
Two 36″ lengths of 3/8″ twisted rope for handles (I found mine at Joann Fabrics)
Optional but recommended: Either a size 4 (1/2″ diameter) grommet kit (like this one) or a size 15/32″ (12mm) eyelet kit. I thoroughly explain what to look for, how they’re used, and what the difference is between grommets and eyelets in the tutorial video and in the blog post above. You don’t have to add these but they will make your bag much more durable and stretch-resistant.
Hammer
Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”) BLO (back loop only) 3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)
Special Stitches:
Large Bean Stitch (LBS) Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)
3rd Loop Only Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.
(3) Tutorial videos will be embedded at the bottom of the pattern. (Click here for a direct link to Part 1, click here for Part 2, and click here for Part 3.) The video tutorials are very helpful – especially the video for Part 2!
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INSTRUCTIONS
To begin: With COLOR A, CH157.
Round 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Place a stitch marker in the final stitch, then join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC, being careful not to twist the round. (156)
Round 2: CH1. SC in first ST. Place a stitch marker in that stitch. SC in each remaining ST around. Do not join. (156)
Note: We are now transitioning to a seamless round. Once you SC in the final stitch for Round 2, which we marked with a stitch marker, you can remove the stitch marker – you don’t need it for now. When you move on to Round 3, instead of chaining up, simply put your first SC right into the first stitch of the previous round (also marked with a stitch marker). Continue on seamlessly, moving that stitch marker up with each round to keep track of the first stitch of the round so that you don’t lose your place.
Rounds 3-24: SC in each ST around. (156)
At the completion of Round 24, join to the first ST of the round with a SL ST.
[Beginning of Part 2]
Round 25: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join to the first ST of the round with a SL ST. (156)
Round 26: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loops of each ST around. Join to the first ST of the round with a SL ST. (156)
Round 27: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Join to the first ST of the round with a SL ST. (156)
Round 28: CH1, turn. SK first ST, LBS in next ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) across. Join to the first ST of the round with a SL ST. (156)
Round 29: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join to the first ST of the round with a SL ST. (156)
Round 30: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loops of each ST around. Join to the first ST of the round with a SL ST. (156)
Rounds 31-62, or until bag measures between 12-13″ high: Repeat Rounds 27-30. (156)
[Beginning of Part 3]
Round 63: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join to the first ST of the round with a SL ST. (156)
Switch to COLOR B. Fasten off COLOR A.
We are now switching back to a seamless round. Do not join, chain or turn unless instructed.
Rounds 64-68: Do not chain up or turn. SC in first ST and in each ST around. Do not join. (156)
Round 69: SC in each of the first 24 STS. CH2; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. CH2; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 48 STS. CH2; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. CH2; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. (144 SC + 4 CH2 holes)
Round 70: SC in each ST around, putting 3SC in each CH2 space from previous round. (156)
Rounds 71-72: SC in each ST around. (156)
Round 73: SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC of the round. (156)
Round 74: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC of the round. (156)
Fasten off. Use your starting tail to sew the gap between the first and last stitches of Round 1 closed, then weave it, and all of your other ends, in.
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ATTACH EYELETS OR GROMMETS
Open your eyelet or grommet kit and retrieve the following items:
Turn your bag inside out, and follow the instructions on your eyelet/grommet kit to add eyelets/grommets to each of the four holes at the top of the bag. (Please note that if your instructions include anything about punching a hole in the fabric, you do not need to do this step because we crocheted holes right into our fabric.) Watch my tutorial video for a step-by-step on how to set grommets or eyelets with a hammer.
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SEWING THE BOTTOM
Keeping the bag inside out, lay it flat, lining up the grommets. Use COLOR A (a length about 5x the width of the bag) to sew the bottom of the bag closed, stitch by stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends.
With the bag still inside out, turn it upside down and position the bottom so that one end lays out in a triangular shape, with the seam centered. Use a ruler and a piece of tape to measure and mark a 5″ line across the corner of the base. Sew a seam across the line (through both layers) with COLOR A. Repeat on the opposite side. This will make the inside of the bag roomy.
Turn bag right-side out. Here’s what it should look like on the inside:
And here’s what it should look like on the bottom:
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ADDING ROPE HANDLES
Take your first rope handle and insert it through one of the eyelets, going from the inside of the bag to the outside. Tie a knot near the bottom of the rope on the outside of the bag and pull it tight (you can use your eyelet to help by gently but firmly pulling the rope from the inside of the bag, which will pull the knot against the eyelet and tighten it up). Then, use good scissors to cut the excess rope about 1/2″ below the knot.
If your rope looks like mine, it will have a couple strands of thread (“casing”) wrapped tightly around each twist. These are pretty easy to locate by gently pulling on the tips of the yarn. When you find them, pull them away from the yarn right up to the knot. Then use scissors to cut them off at that point. Give the exposed thread a little ruffle with your fingers; this will give your handles that classic weathered tassel look.
Repeat these instructions with the other end of the same rope (attaching it through the other eyelet on the same side of the bag) to complete your first handle. Then, do everything again for the 2nd handle on the other side. Note that you’ll want both handles to be the same length, so be sure to compare them when you’re about to tie your final knot to ensure that the handle sizes match.
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That’s it – you’re done! If you’re showing off your work, be sure to hashtag #maliashoulderbag!
Video Tutorials: Parts 1+2
Finished Projects
The beautiful bags created by the crochet-along participants are just… well… beautiful! Everyone made their bag their own by choosing different color combinations, embellishments, and even handle styles. If you’re looking for inspiration for your own bag, look no further! (All photos are used with permission and remain the property of their original owners.)
I rarely make a pattern twice, but I am still obsessing over the Malia stitch pattern from my Malia Crochet-Along! So, naturally, I just keep reinventing it. This cowl is just what it says it is – classic! A top ribbing adds a little extra visual appeal to the already beautiful combination of the 3rd loops stitches and the large bean stitches.
One really great thing about this pattern is that it is very easily adaptable to any yarn weight! So if you’re looking for a super quick project, choose a bulky or super bulky yarn (and appropriately-sized hook); or, if you’re looking for something a little more delicate, choose a DK yarn or even smaller. There are notes within the pattern that will instruct you on how to adjust; just keep a ruler handy, and you’ll be good!
VIDEO TUTORIAL
If you need a little extra help with the stitches in the Malia stitch pattern, here is a video tutorial! (Please note that this tutorial does not follow the Classic Cowl pattern; I simply show you how to do the Malia stitch pattern by crocheting up a swatch of it.)
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
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MALIA CLASSIC COWL
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: 30″ around x 12″ tall
Hook: I (5.5mm)
Yarn: Approx. 390 yards of #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in “Ivory Tweed”.
Gauge: Gauge is not important for this pattern, as instructions are given for how to make sure you get the right size using measurements. Keep a ruler handy.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle
Terms and Abbreviations: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”) BLO (back loop only) 3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)
Special Stitches:
Large Bean Stitch (LBS) Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)
3rd Loop Only Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) A video tutorial for the stitch pattern is available up in the post, or by clicking here.
(4) This pattern can be completed using any yarn weight and complimentary hook size; just keep a ruler handy and follow the adjustment notes within the pattern.
INSTRUCTIONS
RIBBING
CH7.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (6)
Rows 2-102 (or until ribbing measures about 30″ long; be sure to complete an even number of rows): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 4 STS. SC in final ST. (6)
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BODY (Row count restarts back to 1)
Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC in each row end along the long edge of the ribbing. (102, or however many ribbing rows you completed)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 50 times. SC in final ST. (102)
Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (102)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each ST across. (102)
Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (102)
Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 50 times. SC in final ST. (102)
Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (102)
Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each ST across. (102)
Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (102)
Row 10: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 50 times. SC in final ST. (102)
Row 11: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (102)
Row 12: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each ST across. (102)
Rows 13-36*: Repeat Rows 5-12, in order, 3 more times. (*If using a different yarn weight, simply do your repeats until the cowl measures about 12″ tall, being sure to end on a repeat of either Row 8 or Row 12.)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
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SEAMING
Use your long finishing tail to sew the short edges of the cowl together, taking care to line up the row ends neatly.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliaclassiccowl and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!
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