Category: Free Patterns

  • Malia Wrist Warmers

    Malia Wrist Warmers

     This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection, please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

    Wrist warmers (or wristers, or fingerless gloves, or fingerless mitts) are a great way to keep your hands warm without taking away your ability to function (a.k.a. check your smartphone)! They’re also a great accessory to keep in your car, ready for those cold mornings on the road. I made my samples two-toned, but of course, you can crochet yours up in one solid color. Add a couple of decorative buttons to complete the look.

    –

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    If you need a little extra help with any of the stitches in the pattern, I created a video tutorial for previous Malia patterns in which I crocheted up a swatch of the pattern. You might find it useful to scan through the tutorial if you find yourself stuck at any point!

    Free Printable Tags

    I made some cute printable labels for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting these wrist warmers, a label just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. Print on cardstock for best results!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA WRIST WARMERS

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Finished Sizes: 3.5″ wide x 7″ tall

    Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge, as well as one size smaller (in my case, an H (5mm))

    Yarn: 120 yards (total for a pair of wrist warmers) of #4 aran weight. If you choose to do your wrist warmers two-toned like I did, you’ll need about 80 yards of COLOR A for the main part of the design, and 40 yards of COLOR B for the ribbing. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Red Roads” and “Sugared Oats”.

    Gauge: The gauge for all Malia patterns is a 16 stitch x 16 row swatch, but because this particular pattern is also based on 16 stitches, it makes more sense to simply start following the pattern. So, to make sure your gauge is on the right track, after you’ve finished the first 8 rows, measure them; they should measure 2″. (The height should be about 4″.) Adjust your hook accordingly and begin again if necessary.

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 4 small buttons

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:

    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) A video tutorial for the stitch pattern is available up in the post, or by clicking here.

    INSTRUCTIONS (MAKE 2)

    To begin: With COLOR A and larger hook, CH17.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)

    Row 2: Ch1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)

    Row 4: Ch1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)

    Row 5 (thumb hole): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 3 STS. Ch7; SK 7 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 4 STS. SC in final ST. (7 + CH7)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 5 STS. SC in each of the 7 CHs. SC in each of the remaining 4 STS. (16)

    Row 7: Ch1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)

    Row 10: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)

    Row 11: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)

    Row 12: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)

    Row 13: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)

    Row 14: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)

    Row 15: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)

    Row 16: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)

    Rows 17-24: Repeat Rows 9-16.

    At this point, you should put your thumb in the thumb hole and make sure that the fabric can stretch around your palm. It should be snug. If it is too small, repeat Rows 9-12 to add another inch of width.

    Row 25: CH1, do NOT turn. SC in same ST again to round corner. Continue to SC across the top edge of the wrist warmer, putting 3SC in each 4-row section. (I visualize each “section” as being the area between each 3rd loop row, so I put an SC directly to the left of the 3rd loop row, one on the bean stitch row, and one directly to the right of the next 3rd loop row, then repeat that sequence all the way across.) Bring the sides together (right side out) and join to the top of the 1st SC with a SL ST. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

    Seaming the Main Section
    Turn inside out. Seam the edges together, using your yarn needle to go under the 3rd loop of the HDC row and across to the corresponding stitch on the other side. This will create a row of raised top loops along your seam, ensuring that it will blend in with the rest of the similar rows. (This technique is demonstrated on the video tutorial for the Malia Beanie + Slouch at the 42:00 mark.)  Fasten off and weave in both ends.

    Main Section, Bottom Edging
    Turn right-side out. Turn upside down and reattach COLOR A at the bottom, lined up with the thumb hole, and CH1. SC in each row around. (Notice we aren’t doing 3SC in each 4-row section like we did before; this time, each row gets its own SC.) You should end up with 24SC (4 per section), but one more or less won’t make much of a difference. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC.

    Change to COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A.

    CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. In the following instructions, this round will be referred to as the “Base Round”.

    Ribbing Section
    (Note: If you need extra help on this part, please watch this video tutorial on how to add ribbing to the bottom of a crochet project.)

    Switch to smaller hook. CH11.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 9 chains. SL ST into the first SC from the Base Round, the stitch on which your CH11 was built. SL ST into the next SC from the Base Round. (10, plus the two slip stitches along the Base Round)

    The section we just created, built on the CH11, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in the Base Round, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 9 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 empty STS of the Base Round. (10, plus the 2 SL STS along the Base Round)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in the Base Round, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)

    Rows 5-24: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along the Base Round.

    Fasten off and use your tail to sew together the first and last rows of the ribbing, then weave in your ends.

    Thumb Edging
    Reattach COLOR A somewhere on the edge of the thumb hole; CH1. SC evenly around the opening. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. Fasten off and weave in ends.

    Buttons
    Using your yarn needle and COLOR B, or a needle and thread, attach two small buttons to the ribbing toward the outer edge of each wrist warmer.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliawristwarmers and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Wildflower Dish Scrubby

    Wildflower Dish Scrubby

    Thank you to Red Heart for providing the yarn for this sample! 

    Not long ago, a really fun box of yarn from Red Heart landed on my doorstep. Included inside were two skeins of “Scrubby“, a yarn I’d seen online, but never in person. I couldn’t wait to get started playing with it! I came up with this cute little dish scrubby pattern in the shape of the wildflower that’s been so popular on the blog.

    About the Yarn

    Red Heart Scrubby is a #4 worsted weight, extremely textured polyester yarn. Thanks to that texture, it gets the gunk off your dishes with ease, and the polyester dries quicker than cotton. If you aren’t a fan of cotton crocheted dishcloths, this might be the perfect alternative!

    Wildflower Dish Scrubby Crochet Pattern with Red Heart Scrubby Yarn | Free Crochet Scrubby Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Because of the texture, Scrubby isn’t as easy to crochet with as a typical worsted weight yarn. I was a little intimidated at first, but once I got going with it, I was fine. It takes a little concentration (and a lot of bright light!), but as long as you understand the different parts of a stitch and what to look for, you’ll get the hang of crocheting with Scrubby!

    If you need a little extra help, check out this awesome help video from Marly Bird:

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    WILDFLOWER SCRUBBY

    add-to-ravelry-favorites

    Hook: I (5.50mm)
    Yarn: Red Heart Scrubby in two colors (< one ball of each). I used Grape (Color “A”) and Jelly (Color “B”).
    Difficulty: Easyish (the yarn is a bit tricky at first!)
    Gauge: Unimportant
    Finished Size: Sample is 5.5″ wide

    Notes:


    • This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    • Rounds will alternate between increase rounds and petals. Increase rounds will be called “round 1, 2, 3” etc, and petal rounds will be referred to as “1st round of petals, 2nd round of petals,” etc. Because ch petal round shares its space with the increase round below it, they are not counted as part of the pattern’s total rounds.
    • CH1 on the increase rounds does not count as a stitch.
    • Be mindful that the pattern alternates in calling for FLO (Front Loops Only) and BLO (Back Loops Only).
    • This pattern is based off of my Neverending Wildflower. If you haven’t done this pattern before, it might be a good idea to try the pattern below with regular yarn before attempting it with Scrubby. If you need a little extra help, give this pattern a try (it has photo tutorials).

    THE PATTERN

    With Color A, begin with a Magic Circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 12 DC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (12)

    Switch to Color B.

    1st Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. (6 petals)

    Switch to Color A.

    Round 2 (BLO – You’re now going to work around Round 1 again, this time working in the loop that you ignored during the first round of petals): SL ST to 1st back loop of Round 1. CH1. 2DC in same ST. 2 DC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (24)

    2nd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. (12 petals)

    Switch to Color B.

    Round 3 (BLO): SL ST to 1st back loop of Round 2. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in next ST. (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (36)

    3rd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2DC in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2DC in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. (12 petals)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

  • Chunky Ribbed Infinity Scarf

    Chunky Ribbed Infinity Scarf

    The Chunky Ribbed Infinity Scarf is great practice for your Half Double Crochet stitch, but working in the back loops only (BLO) gives it a more interesting surface and adds visual depth.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    CHUNKY RIBBED INFINITY SCARF

    Hook: P (11.50mm)
    Yarn: Super Bulky (I used 3 skeins of Lion Brand’s “Hometown USA”)
    Difficulty: Easy
    Gauge: Not crucial, but a row of 8 HDC = about 5″
    Finished Size: Approximately 52″ around, 8″ wide

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
    (2) This pattern is a great candidate for the Chainless Foundation method, if you’re comfortable with it. If you haven’t learned it, there is a helpful tutorial here.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    THE PATTERN

    To begin: Ch 83.

    Round 1: HDC in 2nd chain from hook. HDC across. Bring ends together, being careful not to twist the chain. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the first HDC.
    (You can also do a chainless foundation stitch (FHDC) for the first row of 82 HDC. If you don’t know how to do this, check out this tutorial. It will change your life. Be sure to join the FHDC, and don’t twist it in the meantime.)

    Round 2: Ch1, turn. In BLO (Back Loops Only), HDC around. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the first HDC.

    Rounds 3-10 (or until scarf is about 8″ wide): Ch1, turn. In BLO, HDC around. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the first HDC.

    Fasten off and weave in ends.

  • Cinched Ear Warmer Headband

    Cinched Ear Warmer Headband

    © Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

    Thank you to Lion Brand for providing the yarn for this pattern sample.

    Today’s pattern is so super easy and fast, and since winter around here seems to have no intentions of going away any time soon, it’s the perfect cold weather accessory when you don’t quite want to commit to a hat. The cinch makes it so versatile – you can wear the cinched part on top of your head or off to the side, or even underneath your ponytail. Give this cinched ear warmer / headband crochet pattern a try!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    CINCHED EAR WARMER

    Level: Easy

    Size:
    One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
    Earwarmer measures 18” around, and is 3” wide.

    Materials:

    • H hook (5.00mm)
    • About 45 yards of Lion Brand Heartland* (Samples are shown in Katmai and Mammoth Cave)
      *About Heartland:
        Weight: #4 worsted
                    Fiber: 100% Acrylic
      Yardage: 5oz/142g (251yd/230m)
      Gauge: 12 sc + 15 rows = 4 inches on size J-10 [6 mm] hook
    • Yarn needle

    Gauge:
    With H hook, 7 HDC = 2″

    Stitches Used:
    CH (chain)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    FDC (foundation half double crochet – click here for a tutorial)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    DC (double crochet)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
    (2) Starting chains do not count as stitches.
    (3) This pattern is easily adjusted to any head size. 62 STS was perfect for me, but you might want to wrap the first round around your head as you go to get the perfect fit for you.

    THE PATTERN

    With H hook,

    Round 1: FDC* 62. Join to first FDC, being careful not to twist the row.
    (*FDC stands for Chainless Foundation Double Crochet, and you can find the tutorial here. Or, just Ch 63, DC in second Ch from hook and DC across. But seriously, go learn Chainless Foundation stitch. It’s way cooler.)

    Round 2: Ch 1; HDC in each St around. Join. (62 HDC)

    Round 3: Ch 2; DC in each St around. Join. (62 DC)

    Rounds 4-7: Repeat rounds 2-3 two more times.

    Cut your yarn, leaving about a 12″ tail, and finish off but don’t weave in the tail. Use your yarn needle to sew up the first round of FDCs, then weave in that tail and cut.

    To Cinch:

    1. Thread the long tail through your yarn needle. Gather the seamed section of the headband, and fold in half so that the fold is facing you.

    2. Bring either side up to the top of the fold and hold secure with your fingers.

    3. Run your yarn needle through all three sections of gathered material. The closer you get to the surface, the better your cinch will look; so I run mine right under the top loops of the outer sections, and under just a few strands of the center fold.

    4. Wrap the yarn around the underside of the cinch, then through the sections again. Do this a few times to secure the cinch, then tie off underneath and weave in the tail.

    cinching steps