Fun fact about this pattern: I never intended for it to be a pattern! When I crocheted this basket, I was making it up as I went along, trying my hand at the Fair Isle technique for the first time to see if I could do it. In the end, I loved it so much that it seemed a waste to not share it with you all!
Here’s a disclaimer, though. I’m no expert on Fair Isle, as this is my first project that uses it, and I have some work to do as far as consistency of stitches and tension. (If you look close, you’ll see some of that inconsistency, particularly around the middle of the basket.) So this won’t really be one of my more “teaching” patterns where I thoroughly explain everything and give tips and all that. I’m just putting the pattern out there so that anyone who (1) already knows how to do Fair Isle or (2) is confident enough to try can have a go at it. I promise that this won’t be my last Fair Isle pattern, though, and maybe when I’ve gotten a little more experience with it, I’ll come back and make a video for this cute basket!
About Those Leather Tags
Those adorable tags on my baskets aren’t actually leather at all – they’re cork! I had mine printed by All This Wood (affiliate link). They always do a great job for me. If you purchase tags of your own through this link, you won’t pay any extra, but I’ll get a small percentage of the sale. My affiliate links are just one of the ways I am able to keep releasing free patterns, so I am always incredibly appreciative of anyone who uses them!
Quick note — I attached my tag with yarn going through my layers of plastic canvas, so the plastic canvas is pretty much locked in place. Don’t do this if you want your bag to be washable!
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Yarn: I used Yarn Bee Studio 72, a sturdy #4 weight acrylic blend available at Hobby Lobby, in the following amounts:
COLOR A (I used “Ivory”): 350 yards
COLOR B (I used “Teal”): 40 yards
Hooks: H (5.0mm) and G (4.25mm)
Gauge: With larger hook, your first 7 rounds should measure 4″ across. (This is only important if you want your basket to match my measurements exactly.)
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker, heavy duty plastic canvas
Terms and Abbreviations: MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) WC (waistcoat stitch; there are lots of tutorials for this on YouTube!) HDC (half double crochet) 3rd Loop (see Special Stitch, below)
Special Stitch: HDC stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. For this pattern the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing away from you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, reach over the two top loops and insert your hook down into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the right side of the pattern.
Notes: (1) IMPORTANT: Most of this pattern is worked seamlessly, but a small portion is worked in joined rounds. Pay attention, and only join, chain and/or turn when specifically instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds when working seamlessly.
(2) To maintain consistency in thickness, you will be carrying yarn along the bottom and outside sections of the basket (indicated in the pattern).
(3) Many designers who use Fair Isle crochet instruct you to complete the entire waistcoat stitch in the secondary color… but I’m not a fan of this technique as I believe it muddies up the design. So for this pattern, whenever you get to COLOR B on the chart, I want you to insert your hook into the stitch and draw up a loop with COLOR B, then yarn over and complete the stitch with COLOR A. When you do it this way, the only part of COLOR B that shows through on the design is the “V”. Nice and clean!
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
To Begin: With larger hook and COLOR A, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 7SC in MC. (6)
Starting here, carry a 2nd strand of COLOR A along your stitches until instructed otherwise.
Round 2: 2WC in each ST around. (14)
Round 3: (2WC in next ST, WC in next ST) around. (21)
Round 4: (WC in next ST, 2WC in next ST, WC in next ST) around. (28)
Round 5: (2WC in next ST, WC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (35)
Round 6: (WC in each of the next 2 STS, 2WC in next ST, WC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (42)
Round 7: (2WC in next ST, WC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (49)
Round 8: (WC in each of the next 3 STS, 2WC in next ST, WC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (56)
Round 9: (2WC in next ST, WC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (63)
Round 10: (WC in each of the next 4 STS, 2WC in next ST, WC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (70)
Round 11: (2WC in next ST, WC in each of the next 9 STS) around. (77)
Round 12: (WC in each of the next 5 STS, 2WC in next ST, WC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (84)
Rounds 13-16: WC in each ST around. (84)
Rounds 17-37: Drop 2nd strand of COLOR A and begin to carry a strand of COLOR B. WC in each ST around, using the chart to guide your color changes. (Lefties, you can follow the chart from L-R. It won’t make a difference in the finished basket.)
Round 38: Drop strand of COLOR B and begin to carry a 2nd strand of COLOR A. WC in each ST around. (84)
Round 39: WC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST into the “V” of the first ST of the round (the same place you insert for a WC stitch). (84)
Round 40: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first HDC. (84)
Drop 2nd strand of COLOR A; you will no longer carry yarn.
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 41: CH1. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Do not join. (84)
Rounds 42-65: SC in each ST around. (84)
To finish: SL ST into the next ST to smooth down the round. Fasten off and weave in ends, then proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas.”
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Adding Plastic Canvas
Cut across your plastic canvas to make strips that are the same height as the inner layer of the basket. Set your basket so that it is completely unfolded. Roll up a strip of canvas and insert it into the bottom of the basket, allowing it to expand up against the walls of the basket. Continue adding as many layers as you want to make it as stiff as you want. Fold the inside layer down over the canvas. Work the fabric until it all lays neat and flat.
If you want, you can sew the inner edge of the fabric to the bottom of the basket to keep everything in place. (Avoid doing this if you want your basket to be machine washable.)
You’re done!
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your baskets on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!
If you’re in the mood for an easy sweater pattern, you really can’t beat the simple construction of a cocoon cardigan sweater.
It’s hard to believe that a basic rectangle can produce such a cozy, relaxed shape, isn’t it? But it’s true! So whether you’re newer to crochet, or you just want a mindless project that will add something beautiful to your wardrobe, give this one a try.
Doesn’t it look like something you’d want to snuggle in, along with a good book, in front of your fireplace?
For reference, my model is wearing the XS/S/M size with a petite modification. The petite modification, which is noted within the pattern, removes 4″ from the overall length. That’s helpful when you’re only 4’9!
About the Yarn
For the body of this pattern, I used Premier Yarns Coffee Shop in the color “Sandstone”. Coffee Shop is a #3 lightweight, acrylic/wool blend with very slow, gradual color changes.
I don’t normally choose multi-colored yarns; I’m more of a solids girl. But as I was shopping the Premier site for a different yarn, this one caught my eye and I threw some into my shopping cart on a whim. I’m glad that I did! It really is gorgeous. It’s very wearable, and very, very lightweight… which is always a nice thing when crocheting a top.
Of course, you don’t have to use a multicolored yarn. This simple pattern will look sophisticated in a solid hue, too.
Yarn Substitutes
I also did a little searching online to find some possible substitutions for Premier Coffee Shop. (Sometimes yarn availability is out of our control, and I get questions about substitutions on every pattern I publish!) Please note that I haven’t tested these; but they are all multi-colored #3 weight yarns that I could see myself trying with the Fireside Cocoon Cardigan.
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
Finished Size Pattern is written for sizes XS/S/M, L/XL/2XL, and 3XL/4XL/5XL (see chart for specific measurements). The cocoon design is a very oversized style with plenty of positive ease, so you should be just fine choosing your regular size. If you are petite in height, consider following the in-pattern instructions for the Petite Modification. It removes 4″ from the overall length.
Yarn COLOR A (body): #3 DK yarn – I used Premier Yarns Coffee Shop in “Sandstone.” COLOR B (collar/edging): #3 DK yarn – I used Yarn Bee Sweet Delight in “Cloudy.”
Hook 5.0mm (H), or whichever hook you need to get an accurate gauge check.
Gauge 14 HDC x 11 rows = 4″
Terms and Abbreviations ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) BLO (back loop only)
Notes (1) Measurements can be easily adjusted. For width, chain any number, and for height, add or subtract any number of rows. (2) Pattern is written for sizes XS/S/M, L/XL/2XL, and 3XL/4XL/5XL. Row numbers and stitch counts are written as follows: XS/S/M (L/XL/2XL, 3XL/4XL/5XL). If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. (3) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch. (4) If using a self-striping yarn, be sure to begin on the same color you are leaving off with on the previous skein.
Edging: Join COLOR B somewhere on the edge of the rectangle and CH1. SC evenly* around the rectangle, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (*When you SC along the row ends, which don’t have top loops, you can start by SCing once in each row end. If it starts to pull or pucker, try crocheting 3SC for every 2 rows, or try a different sized hook. Nice-laying fabric is more important than stitch count here; just be sure to do the same technique on both edges.)
Lay rectangle out flat. (If using a self-striping yarn, lay stripes horizontally.) Bring outside corners in until the top left aligns with the bottom left, and the top right aligns with the bottom right:
Join COLOR B to the inner edge where the two left corners meet and CH1. Hold corners with loops together (so you should have a row of 4 total top loops) and SL ST through all 4 loops, about halfway to the end. Fasten off, weave in ends, and repeat on the right side.
To begin: Join COLOR B to top center of garment; CH1.
Round 1: HDC in BLO evenly around the entire perimeter of the collar area. Join.
Rounds 2-10 (or as many rounds as you want): CH1, turn. In BLO, HDC evenly around. Join.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Don’t forget to share your finished project!
Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to show if off! Be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!
Can I just say… I AM SO HAPPY that cooler weather has arrived!
Being a Michigan girl, we always hear about “seasonal affective disorder” — in other words, living in a state where the sun is hidden by clouds for 5-6 months out of the year can seriously alter your mood in a bad way. But me? At least for the first few months of the fall/winter journey, I come alive.
You can keep your 95 degree days, summer. I’m a sweater-and-fuzzy-socks kind of girl.
So is my model, who is rocking the Harvest Cardigan with jeans and boots.
So if you’re like me, and have already traded your summer clothes for cozier ones, you’re definitely going to want to make this cardigan for yourself.
If you’ve never crocheted invisible pockets (pockets that don’t have a visible seam on the outside of the garment), I’ll teach you how! I even added some cute ribbing to the top of them. Subtle yet stylish.
About the Yarn
For this pattern I used Tweed Indeed, a new yarn from Yarn Bee, in “Golden Tweed.” As soon as I started working with it, I knew that Tweed Indeed would become one of my favorite yarns.
A mix of Acetate (46%), Cotton (46%), Viscose (6%), and Polyester (2%), this yarn feels incredible against the skin. It ran through my hands and my hook just like a quality 100% cotton, but the resulting fabric is especially soft and squishy, and the fibers fill the space between stitches better than any cotton I’ve used. And the tweed! I’ve never been able to find a tweed cotton that I liked until now. I sincerely hope that they expand the line because I can imagine this yarn in so many rich colors. (And don’t let that acetate scare you off! Acetate is a man-made fiber derived from cellulose obtained from wood pulp – a renewable resource that decomposes over time. It’s soft and silky, environmentally friendly, and has no relation to acetone.)
If you want to use the same yarn I did, you’re probably going to want to order it online. Hobby Lobby stores don’t tend to carry yarns in large quantities, but their warehouse does understand the importance of matching dye lots, so you don’t have to worry about getting a mixed bag!
Possible Substitutes
If you want to use a different yarn, here are a few options I thought of (but always do a gauge check!):
Superwash 220 | Cascade Yarns
Basic Stitch (Anti-Pilling or Premium) | Lion Brand
Feels Like Butta | Lion Brand
Jeans | Lion Brand
ZZ Twist | Lion Brand
I Love This Cotton | Yarn Bee
Rustic Romantic | Yarn Bee
Red Heart Soft | Red Heart
Chic Sheep by Marly Bird | Red Heart
Premier Everyday Anti-Pilling Worsted | Yarnspirations
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Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
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Finished Size: Pattern is written for sizes XS – 5XL, with an optional petite modification for length (see chart for specific measurements). It has a slender classic fit, with 2-4″ positive ease. To achieve the intended fit, choose the size that matches your actual bust measurement in the first row of the chart. If you are between sizes, or desire a more oversized fit, you can size up.
Yarn: You’ll need a soft #4 worsted weight yarn. I used Yarn Bee’s Tweed Indeed in the color “Golden Tweed.” Tweed Indeed is a blend of acetate, cotton, viscose and polyester. For a cotton yarn, it has an especially cozy vibe, but this sweater can easily be created with an acrylic or a wool, too. Please refer to the chart to determine how much you’ll need:
Hook: 5.5mm (I), or whichever hook you need to get an accurate gauge check.
Gauge: 15 SC x 20 rows = 4”
You’ll Also Need: 3/4″ (19mm) buttons. I recommend 5-7 buttons for regular sizes, and 5 for petite sizes. For my sample, I used LaMode #02706 (from Joann Fabrics).
Terms and Abbreviations: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) SC+HDC (SC and HDC in the same ST) BLO (back loop only) SC2TOG (single crochet 2 together, or SC Decrease)
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms. (2) Pattern is written for sizes XS-5XL, with counts for sizes S-5XL written in parentheses. Example: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. (3) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
Important Information About Sizing: As I’ve come to learn, designing garment patterns for a large and varied audience is a tricky business. It’s one thing when we can go into a store and try on a top, and instantly know if it falls where we want it to in terms of length; it’s totally another thing to make that top ourselves, only basing its finished silhouette on the images the designer provides. Standard sizing is based on averages, but within those guidelines, there is so much variation; the same cardigan will look very different on a 5’10 woman than it will on a 5’0 woman, even if they are both, for instance, size mediums.
So to help a bit with this, I’ve written this pattern based on the standard measurements provided by the Craft Yarn Council, but I’ve also included recommendations within the pattern for a petite modification, mainly because my model is very petite at just 4’9. In the pattern photos, she is wearing size XS, with a petite modification. The petite modification removes 3.25″ from the overall length. (Of course, this is all assuming you’ve done an accurate gauge check.)
RibbingRow 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Stitch count: 8
Ribbing Rows 2-60 (68, 74, 82, 90, 98, 104, 112, 120): CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS, SC in final ST. Stitch count: 8
We’re now going to begin working down the long edge of the ribbing. Our row count will restart at 1.
Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC down the long edge of the ribbing, putting 1SC in each row end. Stitch count: 60 (68, 74, 82, 90, 98, 104, 112, 120)
Rows 2-8: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 60 (68, 74, 82, 90, 98, 104, 112, 120)
Rows 9-12: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 60 (68, 74, 82, 90, 98, 104, 112, 120)
Rows 13-20: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 60 (68, 74, 82, 90, 98, 104, 112, 120)
Rows 21-92: Repeat Rows 9-20, in order, 6 more times. (For PETITE MODIFICATION, repeat only 5 more times, then proceed to next instruction.)
Row 93: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 60 (68, 74, 82, 90, 98, 104, 112, 120)
Sizes XS, S, M, L ONLY: Fasten off and weave in ends, then proceed to “POCKETS”.
Rows 94-96 (Sizes XL-5XL ONLY): Repeat Row 93. Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each ST across. Stitch count: 18 (18, 18, 20, 20, 20, 22, 22, 22)
Rows 2-22: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 18 (18, 18, 20, 20, 20, 22, 22, 22)
Fasten off and weave in ends. Have pockets ready for Front Panels.
– – – – – – – – – – – – FRONT PANEL – RIGHT SIDE – – – – – – – – – – – –
To Begin: CH9.
RibbingRow 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Stitch count: 8
Ribbing Rows 2-26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56): CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS, SC in final ST. Stitch count: 8
We’re now going to begin working down the long edge of the ribbing. Our row count will restart at 1.
Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC down the long edge of the ribbing, putting 1SC in each row end. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 2-8: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 9-12: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 13-20: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Row 21: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Row 22: Have finished pocket ready. CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 4 (8, 12, 14, 18, 22, 24, 26, 30) STS. Hold pocket behind panel and line up the top right corner with your next available stitch (photo 1). Continue SCing across, inserting hook into top loops of pocket instead of top loops of panel (photo 2). When you have SC’d into each ST across the top of the pocket, SC in each of the remaining 4 STS of the panel (photo 3). Photo 4 shows completed row. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 23-24: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 25-32: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 33-36: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 37-48: Repeat Rows 25-36, in order, 1 more time. (For PETITE MODIFICATION, DO NOT do Rows 37-48; proceed immediately to Row 49 instructions.)
Row 49 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 3 STS remain. SK next ST, SC in each of the final 2 STS. Stitch count: 25 (29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 51, 55)
Row 50: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 2 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 25 (29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 51, 55)
Row 51: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the final 2 STS. Stitch count: 25 (29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 51, 55)
Row 52: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 2 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 25 (29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 51, 55)
Row 53 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SK next ST, SC in final ST. Stitch count: 24 (28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 50, 54)
Rows 54-56: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 24 (28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 50, 54)
Row 57 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SC across until 2 STS remain; SC2TOG final 2 STS. Stitch count: 23 (27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 47, 49, 53)
Rows 58-60: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 23 (27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 47, 49, 53)
Row 61 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SK next ST, SC in final ST. Stitch count: 22 (26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 48, 52)
Rows 62-64: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 22 (26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 48, 52)
Row 65 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 3 STS remain. SK next ST, SC in each of the final 2 STS. Stitch count: 21 (25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 47, 51)
Row 66: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 2 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 21 (25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 47, 51)
Row 67: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the final 2 STS. Stitch count: 21 (25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 47, 51)
Row 68: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 2 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 21 (25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 47, 51)
Row 69 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SC across until 2 STS remain; SC2TOG final 2 STS. Stitch count: 20 (24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 46, 50)
Rows 70-72: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 20 (24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 46, 50)
Row 73 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 3 STS remain. SK next ST, SC in each of the final 2 STS. Stitch count: 19 (23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 45, 49)
Row 74: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 2 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 19 (23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 45, 49)
Row 75: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the final 2 STS. Stitch count: 19 (23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 45, 49)
Row 76: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 2 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 19 (23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 45, 49)
Row 77 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SK next ST, SC in final ST. Stitch count: 18 (22, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 44, 48)
Rows 78-80: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 18 (22, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 44, 48)
Row 81 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SC across until 2 STS remain; SC2TOG final 2 STS. Stitch count: 17 (21, 25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 43, 47)
Rows 82-84: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 17 (21, 25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 43, 47)
Row 85 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SK next ST, SC in final ST. Stitch count: 16 (20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 42, 46)
Rows 86-88: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 16 (20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 42, 46)
Row 89 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 3 STS remain. SK next ST, SC in each of the final 2 STS. Stitch count: 15 (19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 45)
Row 90: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 2 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 15 (19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 45)
Row 91: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the final 2 STS. Stitch count: 15 (19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 45)
Row 92: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 2 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 15 (19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 45)
Row 93: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 15 (19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 45)
Sizes XS, S, M, L ONLY: Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rows 94-96 (Sizes XL-5XL ONLY): Repeat Row 93. Fasten off and weave in all ends.
– – – – – – – – – – – – FRONT PANEL – LEFT SIDE – – – – – – – – – – – –
To Begin: Follow instructions for FRONT PANEL – RIGHT SIDE through Row 21, then proceed with the following instructions.
Row 22: Have finished pocket ready. CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 4 STS. Hold pocket behind panel and line up the top right corner with your next available stitch. Continue SCing across, inserting hook into top loops of pocket instead of top loops of panel. When you have SC’d into each ST across the top of the pocket, SC in each of the remaining 4 (8, 12, 14, 18, 22, 24, 26, 30) STS of the panel. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 23-24: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 25-32: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 33-36: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 37-48: Repeat Rows 25-36, in order, 1 more time. (For PETITE MODIFICATION, DO NOT do Rows 37-48; proceed immediately to Row 49 instructions.)
Row 49 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC in next ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 25 (29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 51, 55)
Row 50: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Stitch count: 25 (29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 51, 55)
Row 51: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 25 (29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 51, 55)
Row 52: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Stitch count: 25 (29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 51, 55)
Row 53 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SK first ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 24 (28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 50, 54)
Rows 54-56: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 24 (28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 50, 54)
Row 57 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SC2TOG. SC in each remaining ST. Stitch count: 23 (27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 47, 49, 53)
Rows 58-60: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 23 (27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 47, 49, 53)
Row 61 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SK first ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 22 (26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 48, 52)
Rows 62-64: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 22 (26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 48, 52)
Row 65 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC in next ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 21 (25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 47, 51)
Row 66: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Stitch count: 21 (25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 47, 51)
Row 67: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 21 (25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 47, 51)
Row 68: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Stitch count: 21 (25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 47, 51)
Row 69 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SC2TOG. SC in each remaining ST. Stitch count: 20 (24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 46, 50)
Rows 70-72: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 20 (24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 46, 50)
Row 73 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC in next ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 19 (23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 45, 49)
Row 74: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Stitch count: 19 (23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 45, 49)
Row 75: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 19 (23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 45, 49)
Row 76: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Stitch count: 19 (23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 45, 49)
Row 77 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SK first ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 18 (22, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 44, 48)
Rows 78-80: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 18 (22, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 44, 48)
Row 81 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SC2TOG. SC in each remaining ST. Stitch count: 17 (21, 25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 43, 47)
Rows 82-84: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 17 (21, 25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 43, 47)
Row 85 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SK first ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 16 (20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 42, 46)
Rows 86-88: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 16 (20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 42, 46)
Row 89 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC in next ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 15 (19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 45)
Row 90: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Stitch count: 15 (19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 45)
Row 91: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 15 (19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 45)
Row 92: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Stitch count: 15 (19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 45)
Row 93: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 15 (19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 45)
Sizes XS, S, M, L ONLY: Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rows 94-96 (Sizes XL-5XL ONLY): Repeat Row 93. Fasten off and weave in all ends.
RIBBING For help with this technique, please see my tutorial video.
Photo shows Base Row + CH7 from Row 1.
To begin: Join yarn to rightmost unworked stitch on the front edge of the pocket; CH1.
Base Row: SC in each unworked ST across. Stitch count: 18 (18, 18, 20, 20, 20, 22, 22, 22)
Ribbing, Row 1: CH7, turn. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 5 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Base Row, the stitch on which your CH7 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Base Row. (6, plus the two slip stitches along Base Row)
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Base Row, SC in BLO of each of the first 5 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 5 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Base Row. (6, plus the 2 SL STS along Base Row)
Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Base Row, SC in BLO of each of the first 5 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)
Rows 5-18 (18, 18, 20, 20, 20, 22, 22, 22): Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way across Base Row.
Fasten off, leaving a long finishing tail to secure pocket.
SECURING POCKETS
Use long finishing tail to secure pocket to cardigan. Begin by sewing down the side of the ribbing, then transition to the inner pocket and sew it to the inside of the front panel along side, bottom, and 2nd side. (To avoid unseemly stitching on the front of your cardigan, don’t push your yarn needle all the way through to the front when sewing; instead, grab a thread or two from the inside of the cardigan for each stitch.) Finish by transitioning back to the front of the cardigan to sew the second ribbing edge down. Fasten off and weave in ends.
RibbingRow 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Stitch count: 8
Ribbing Rows 2-30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56, 60): CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS, SC in final ST. Stitch count: 8
We’re now going to begin working down the long edge of the ribbing. Our row count will restart at 1.
Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC down the long edge of the ribbing, putting 1SC in each row end. JOIN with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. Stitch count: 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56, 60)
Rows 2-4: CH1, turn. (SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. JOIN. Stitch count: 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56, 60)
Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. JOIN. Stitch count: 31 (35, 39, 43, 47, 51, 53, 57, 61)
Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. JOIN. Stitch count: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 54, 58, 62)
Rows 7-8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. JOIN. Stitch count: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 54, 58, 62)
Rows 9-10: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. JOIN. Stitch count: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 54, 58, 62)
Row 11: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each remaining ST around. JOIN. Stitch count: 33 (37, 41, 45, 49, 53, 55, 59, 63)
Row 12: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each remaining ST around. JOIN. Stitch count: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 56, 60, 64)
Rows 13-16: CH1, turn. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. JOIN. Stitch count: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 56, 60, 64)
Row 17: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. JOIN. Stitch count: 35 (39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 57, 61, 65)
Row 18: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. JOIN. Stitch count: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 58, 62, 66)
Rows 19-20: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. JOIN. Stitch count: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 58, 62, 66)
Rows 21-22: CH1, turn. SC in each St around. JOIN. Stitch count: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 58, 62, 66)
Row 23: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each remaining ST around. JOIN. Stitch count: 37 (41, 45, 49, 53, 57, 59, 63, 67)
Row 24: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each remaining ST around. JOIN. Stitch count: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 60, 64, 68)
Rows 25-28: CH1, turn. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. JOIN. Stitch count: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 60, 64, 68)
Row 29: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. JOIN. Stitch count: 39 (43, 47, 51, 55, 59, 61, 65, 69)
Row 30: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. JOIN. Stitch count: 40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 62, 66, 70)
Rows 31-32: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. JOIN. Stitch count: 40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 62, 66, 70)
Rows 33-34: CH1, turn. SC in each St around. JOIN. Stitch count: 40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 62, 66, 70)
Row 35: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each remaining ST around. JOIN. Stitch count: 41 (45, 49, 53, 57, 61, 63, 67, 71)
Row 36: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each remaining ST around. JOIN. Stitch count: 42 (46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 64, 68, 72)
Rows 37-40: CH1, turn. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. JOIN. Stitch count: 42 (46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 64, 68, 72)
Row 41: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. JOIN. Stitch count: 43 (47, 51, 55, 59, 63, 65, 69, 73)
Row 42: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. JOIN. Stitch count: 44 (48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 66, 70, 74)
Rows 43-44: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. JOIN. Stitch count: 44 (48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 66, 70, 74)
Rows 45-46: CH1, turn. SC in each St around. JOIN. Stitch count: 44 (48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 66, 70, 74)
Row 47: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each remaining ST around. JOIN. Stitch count: 45 (49, 53, 57, 61, 65, 67, 71, 75)
Row 48: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each remaining ST around. JOIN. Stitch count: 46 (50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 68, 72, 76)
Rows 49-52: CH1, turn. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. JOIN. Stitch count: 46 (50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 68, 72, 76)
Row 53: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. JOIN. Stitch count: 47 (51, 55, 59, 63, 67, 69, 73, 77)
Row 54: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. JOIN. Stitch count: 48 (52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 70, 74, 78)
Rows 55-56: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. JOIN. Stitch count: 48 (52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 70, 74, 78)
Rows 57-60: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC around until you have 1 ST remaining; 2SC in final ST. Stitch count: 56 (60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 78, 82, 86)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming sleeve to shoulder. Use starting tail to sew first and last rows of ribbing together, then weave in.
First, we’ll use a Slip Stitch to seam the shoulders. Slip Stitches give the shoulder area a strong seam to counteract the weight of the sweater pulling down on them. With wrong sides facingeach other, line up first front panel with back panel and attach yarn at top corner; CH1 and slip stitch into the two loops in the middle of the 4 you have to choose from. Continue to SL ST this way across the width of the shoulder; fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat for the other side.
Sides + Sleeves
For this part, I recommend using the Mattress Stitch; and if you do, you’ll want to seam everything with your cardigan turned right-side-out. (You can find tutorials on Google for this seaming stitch) If you prefer a different seaming stitch, turn your cardigan whichever way is recommended by that stitch.
Seeming arms can feel a little tricky, so here’s the order I do things in to make sure everything is lining up the way it needs to.
Step 1: Cut a long length of yarn and use the mattress stitch to seam up the first side, being sure to keep the rows lined up correctly. Stop when you get about an inch or two below the armpit (use a sleeve for reference). Remove your yarn needle, but don’t weave in ends.
Step 2: Line your sleeve up against the side of the cardigan and use the finishing tail from the sleeve to carefully seam the front layer of fabric to the front panel. You’re working in the loops of the sleeve and the row ends of the cardigan, so you’ll need to improvise a bit. Just make sure that the top of the sleeve meets up with the shoulder seam and the fabric doesn’t pull or bunch. Remove yarn needle.
Step 3: Thread yarn needle with what’s left of the yarn from the side seam and continue up, then seam the back layer of sleeve fabric to the back panel.
Fasten off and weave in ends, then repeat for the other sleeve on the other side.
Lay cardigan flat and rejoin your yarn at the bottom corner of the right panel as shown. CH1 and SC evenly up the panel, across the back, and down the other panel to form a Base Row for the ribbing (just like we did for the pockets). Remove your hook, but don’t let your stitches unravel.
Button Placement
Decide where you want your buttonholes to go by arranging your buttons on the cardigan edge on the right side. (The buttons themselves will later be sewn onto the left side, but right now we’re just figuring out placement for the holes.) When you’re happy with the arrangement, use stitch markers to mark the stitches in the Base Row where you want each hole to be.
For my sample (which, remember, is a petite XS), I used 5 buttons. I put the highest button right where the edge begins to taper, and the lowest one in the middle of the ribbing; I then evenly spaced the 3 remaining in between those two.
Crocheting the Ribbed Collar
Reinsert your hook where you left off and follow these instructions to add ribbing for the collar:
Ribbing, Row 1: CH7, turn. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 5 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Base Row, the stitch on which your CH7 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Base Row. (6, plus the two slip stitches along Base Row)
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Base Row, SC in BLO of each of the first 5 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 5 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Base Row. (6, plus the 2 SL STS along Base Row)
Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Base Row, SC in BLO of each of the first 5 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)
Rows 5 – the end: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way across Base Row, but use the following instructions whenever you come to a buttonhole row (marked by your stitch markers):
Buttonhole Rows: Complete row as normal except replace the middle two stitches with a CH1 space. On the row immediately following, complete as normal except put the 2 middle stitches into the CH1 space.
Fasten off and weave in ends. Sew buttons to the left side panel so that they line up with their corresponding holes.
Step back and take a look at your beautiful work… you’re DONE!
Don’t forget to share your finished project!
Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to show if off! Be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!
Malia is making a quick reappearance this season, in the form of a cute twisted earwarmer!
I always thought this stitch pattern would look great as a twisted earwarmer, and with the weather finally starting to cool off here, it’s time for me to start thinking about how to keep cozy! I always love a good earwarmer / headband, because it does the job with minimal fuss.
If you need a little help with the stitches, check out the tutorial video I made during the original Malia Crochet-Along for the cowl and scarf; just use the numbers in this pattern instead of the ones called for on the video!
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
Finished Size: 20″ long (before seaming) x 3.75″ wide
Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge
Yarn: 100 yards of a #4 aran weight. I used Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Okie Wheat” for my sample.
Gauge: To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.
Pattern for Gauge:
CH17. Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16) Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16) Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16) Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16) Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16) Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16) Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16) Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16) Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16) Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)
Terms and Abbreviations: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”) BLO (back loop only) 3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)
Special Stitches:
Large Bean Stitch (LBS) Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)
3rd Loop Only Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) A video tutorial for the stitch pattern is available up in the post, or by clicking here.
(4) To make earwarmer larger or smaller, add or subtract an even number of stitches from the starting row or chain. For reference, if you met gauge, 4 stitches = 1″.
INSTRUCTIONS
Tobegin: CH79.
Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (78)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 76 STS. SC in final ST. (78)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (78)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 38 times. SC in final ST. (78)
Row 5: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (78)
Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 76 STS. SC in final ST. (78)
Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (78)
Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 38 times. SC in final ST. (78)
Row 9: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (78)
Row 10: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 76 STS. SC in final ST. (78)
Row 11: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (78)
Row 12: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 38 times. SC in final ST. (78)
Row 13: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (78)
Row 14: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 76 STS. SC in final ST. (78)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming. Weave in starting tail.
Adding the Twist
Follow the instructions below to seam your earwarmer with a twist. Use the image below to guide you. (They are actually from my Simple Twisted Earwarmer pattern, but the technique is the same.)
1. Thread the long finishing tail through your yarn needle and gently set it aside. Lay ear warmer flat, wrong side up, then gather the edges and layer them together as shown.
2. Thread the yarn needle across the edges, being sure to grab yarn from all four layers.
3. Continue to weave the yarn needle back and forth across the surface of the edges, being sure to grab yarn from all four layers each time.
4. Weave in the tail, then turn earwarmer right side out.
Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!
I love crocheted baskets. I love making them, I love displaying them, and I love using them. Ever since I came up with my plastic canvas method for stability, I just can’t get enough of these easy projects!
I wanted my next basket pattern to be chic, simple and modern looking. So I returned to one of my favorite stitches – the herringbone half double crochet worked in the round. Such pretty texture!
(My tribe has been begging for a square basket pattern, too, and that’s right here.)
About Those Cute Leather Tags
Those adorable tags on my baskets aren’t actually leather at all – they’re cork! I had mine printed by All This Wood (affiliate link). They always do a great job for me. If you purchase tags of your own through this link, you won’t pay any extra, but I’ll get a small percentage of the sale. My affiliate links are just one of the ways I am able to keep releasing free patterns, so I am always incredibly appreciative of anyone who uses them!
Video Help
While this is a very simple pattern, I know that many of you are visual learners. I don’t have a video tutorial specifically for this pattern, but I have three tutorials that you can use together to basically make the entire basket! Here they are:
Crocheting the smooth-circle base
Timestamp 3:40 – 19:05 covers 12 rounds of the Smooth Circle Increase. (It’s a different basket pattern that uses the same technique.)
Crocheting the rest of the basket
Timestamp 4:31 – 27:35 covers crocheting the rest of the basket. (It’s the same basket, just the square version. So while the video will begin by telling you to HHDC around the perimeter of the square, you’ll just HHDC around the circle, continuing seamlessly as you already were.)
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
Herringbone Round Basket Set
Difficulty: Easy
Yarn: I used Bernat Maker Home Dec (a #5 bulky weight cotton/nylon blend) in “Clay”. Yarn amounts are listed with individual pattern sizes.
Hooks: H (5.0mm) and G (4.25mm)
Gauge: Your first 5 rounds should measure 2.5″ across.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker, heavy duty plastic canvas
Terms and Abbreviations: MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see Special Stitches, below)
3rd Loop (see Special Stitches, below)
Special Stitches:
HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.
3rd Loop: Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. For this pattern the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing away from you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, reach over the two top loops and insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the right side of the pattern. Also called Camel Stitch or RibHDC.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) IMPORTANT: Most of this pattern is worked seamlessly, but a small portion is worked in joined rounds. Pay attention, and only join, chain and/or turn when specifically instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds when working seamlessly.
(3) The finished size of each basket is listed on its individual pattern.
(4) This basket uses the Smooth-Circle Base method of increasing, which is different than a standard circle increase pattern. Please see the video tutorial listed under “Video Help” up in the blog post for a thorough walk-through of this method.
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SMALLER BASKET
Yards Used: 120 Finished Size: 5.5″ wide x 2.75″ tall
To Begin: With larger hook and bulky yarn, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)
Round 2: 2SC in each ST around. (12)
Round 3: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)
Round 4: (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (24)
Round 5: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (30)
Round 6: (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)
Round 7: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (42)
Round 8: (SC in each of the next 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (48)
Round 9: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (54)
Rounds 10-15: HHDC in each ST around. (54)
Round 16: HHDC in each of the first 52 STS. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (54)
Round 17: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first HDC. (54)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 18: CH1. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Do not join. (54)
Rounds 19-27: SC in each ST around. (54)
SL ST into the next ST to smooth down the round. Fasten off and weave in ends, then proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas.”
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LARGER BASKET
Yards Used: 190
Finished Size: 7″ wide x 3.25″ tall
To Begin: With larger hook and bulky yarn, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)
Round 2: 2SC in each ST around. (12)
Round 3: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)
Round 4: (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (24)
Round 5: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (30)
Round 6: (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)
Round 7: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (42)
Round 8: (SC in each of the next 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (48)
Round 9: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (54)
Round 10: (SC in each of the next 4 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (60)
Round 11: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around. (66)
Round 12: (SC in each of the next 5 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (72)
Rounds 13-20: HHDC in each ST around. (72)
Round 21: HHDC in each of the first 70 STS. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (72)
Round 22: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first HDC. (72)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 23: CH1. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Do not join. (72)
Rounds 24-34: SC in each ST around. (72)
SL ST into the next ST to smooth down the round. Fasten off and weave in ends, then proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas.”
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Adding Plastic Canvas
Cut across your plastic canvas to make strips that are the same height as the inner layer of the basket. Set your basket so that it is completely unfolded. Roll up a strip of canvas and insert it into the bottom of the basket, allowing it to expand up against the walls of the basket. Continue adding as many layers as you want to make it as stiff as you want. Fold the inside layer down over the canvas. Work the fabric until it all lays neat and flat.
If you want, you can sew the inner edge of the fabric to the bottom of the basket to keep everything in place. (Avoid doing this if you want your basket to be machine washable.)
You’re done!
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your baskets on social media, be sure to use hashtag #herringbonebasket and tag me @yarnandchai.design!
Ever since I designed my very first garment pattern last winter, I’ve been itching to get started on a new wearable. I love how Marsali turned out; she’s soft, simple, and feminine, and she’ll accompany you through at least 3 seasons:
🍂 In fall, pair her with jeans or leggings and tall boots
❄️ In winter, put a long-sleeved white tee underneath for extra coziness
🌷 In spring, layer her over a simple tank top
About the Yarn
I worked up the sample in Lion Brand Coboo (affiliate link), which is a #3 weight blend: 51% cotton, and 49% rayon from bamboo. When I was newer to crochet I avoided cotton because my first experience with it was the kitchen cottons that are sold at almost all craft stores, and I couldn’t fathom how anyone would make garments with it. I had no idea the huge range of cotton that was actually available in the yarn world… I’m so glad I do now!
Coboo was awesome to work with. It can be a little splitty, but that doesn’t bother me (and it actually helps the drape of the finished pattern). And it’s so soft! I am really picky about what yarn touches my skin, and I would love to wrap myself in a big soft blanket of Coboo.
Note: If you’re someone who has trouble with “splitty” yarns, I recommend switching up your hook. My Clover Amour works well with this yarn, and although I had to be a little more conscious of grabbing all of the strands, I didn’t find Coboo unmanageable in the least. And the finished fabric is worth it. Look at that drape!
About to do some yarn shopping? Click here to use my affiliate link for Lion Brand Coboo. (When you purchase from my affiliate links at no extra cost to you, I get a little commission… which helps me to continue putting out free patterns!)
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Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
Finished Size: Pattern is written for sizes XS – 5XL (see chart for specific measurements). Top has an oversized fit, with 10-12″ positive ease.
Yarn: I used Coboo from Lion Brand (affiliate link), a super soft #3 DK weight cotton/rayon blend, in the color “Silver”. The table below will tell you how much yarn you will need for your size. Please note that the number of skeins required assumes an accurate gauge check and is specific to Lion Brand Coboo; if you use a different yarn, you’ll need to go by yardage when deciding how much to purchase.
Hook(s): 4.5mm, or whichever hook you need to get an accurate gauge check. For the sleeves, you will also need a hook that is .5mm larger (I used a 5.0mm).
Gauge: 17 STS x 16 rows = 4″ square (done in the SC+HDC stitch).
::: How to Check Your GaugeFor the Marsali Top :::
With 4.5mm hook and chosen yarn, follow this pattern:
To begin: CH23. Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook. (SK next CH, SC+HDC in next CH) 10 times. SC in final CH. (22) Rows 2-20: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 10 times. SC in final ST. (22) Fasten off.
Lay your gauge fabric on a flat surface and measure the width of 17 stitches, as well as the height of 16 rows. If each come to 4″, you are good to go. If less than 4″, use a larger hook and try again; if more than 4″, use a smaller hook.
If you can get one measurement correct but not the other, go with the hook size that gets you the correct number of stitches; you can easily adjust the height of the pattern by adding or removing rows.
Terms and Abbreviations: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) SC+HDC (do a full SC and full HDC in the same stitch) BLO (back loop only)
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms. (2) Measurements can be easily adjusted. For width, simply keep an even-numbered stitch count in your rows, and for height, add or subtract an even number of rows of the SC+HDC stitch in the body of the pattern. Just be sure that whatever you do for the front panel, you do for the back panel as well. (3) Pattern is written for sizes XS-5XL, with counts for sizes S-5XL written in parentheses. Example: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. (4) “Right” side of fabric is the side where the braid at the top and bottom of the pattern is visible. (5) Pattern is worked from the bottom up.
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Instructions
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – PANELS (MAKE 2) – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – The front and back panels, which are identical, consist of 3 parts: the bottom ribbing, the body, and the top ribbing. These 3 parts are worked as one piece, so don’t fasten off until instructed.
– – – Part 1: Bottom Ribbing The bottom of Marsali is a classic ribbed edge.
To Begin: With 4.5mm hook, CH9.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)
Rows 2-86 (94, 102, 110, 120, 128, 136, 144, 154): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in final ST. (8)
– – – Part 2:Body
Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. Working down the long edge of the ribbing, HDC in each row end (each peak and each valley). (86 [94, 102, 110, 120, 128, 136, 144, 154])
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 84 (92, 100, 108, 118, 126, 134, 142, 152) STS. SC in final ST. (86 [94, 102, 110, 120, 128, 136, 144, 154])
Rows 3-74 (74, 74, 78, 78, 78, 82, 82, 82): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across, until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. (86 [94, 102, 110, 120, 128, 136, 144, 154])
Row 75 (75, 75, 79, 79, 79, 83, 83, 83): CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (86 [94, 102, 110, 120, 128, 136, 144, 154])
Row 76 (76, 76, 80, 80, 80, 84, 84, 84): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 84 (92, 100, 108, 118, 126, 134, 142, 152) STS. SC in final ST. (86 [94, 102, 110, 120, 128, 136, 144, 154])
– – – Part 3:Top Ribbing In this section, we will be creating the top ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the body as we go. If you feel you need a little more in-depth help with this part, here’s a tutorial video that is specifically about this technique.
Top Ribbing, Row 1: CH9, turn. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 7 chains. SL ST into the first SC from final row of Part 2, the stitch on which your CH9 was built. SL ST into the next SC from the final row of Part 2. (8, plus the two slip stitches along the final row of Part 2)
The section we just created, built on the CH9, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in the final row of Part 2, SC in first ST of the ribbing. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. SL ST in each of the next 2 unworked STS along the final row of Part 2. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along the final row of Part 2)
Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in the final row of Part 2, SC in first ST of the ribbing. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)
Rows 5-86 (94, 102, 110, 120, 128, 136, 144, 154): Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way across the final row of Part 2. (8)
Fasten off and weave in all ends. Block both panels if desired.
Lay panels on top of each other on a flat surface, wrong sides together, right sides facing out. Using the recommendations for your size in the chart below, measure the suggested number of inches down both sides and mark with a stitch marker. Put your stitch marker through both panels and be sure to mark the same row on both sides, and both panels.
Starting at the bottom, just above where the ribbing ends and working upward, seam edges of one side using the Mattress Stitch (being careful to keep the rows lined up as you go). Seam until you reach your stitch marker, then fasten off and weave in ends on the inside of the top. Do the same for the other side.
(A note on seaming: Because we are seaming the sides of the work, there are no top loops to work into. We just have to do our best; and the more you do, the more you’ll become familiar with the pattern of the yarn along the edges, helping you to stay consistent. Just keep those rows lined up. You’ll be ok! If you need a little help on Mattress Stitch technique, here’s a tutorial video from fellow designer Edie Eckman.)
Important: Follow all arm hole instructions with a hook that is .5mm larger than you used for the body. As you SC around the first arm hole, if your fabric starts to pucker, try going another .5mm larger still.
Decide which side is going to be the front panel and which will be the back panel (right now they are identical). Mark the front panel with a stitch marker for easy reference.
RIGHT SIDE ARM HOLE Remove the stitch marker on the right arm hole (as if you were wearing it) and join your yarn at that spot on the front panel. SC up the front edge of the arm hole, putting one SC in each row end. (Tip: the little “squares” in the fabric are each comprised of two rows each.)
When you get to the ribbing at the top, lay the ribbing from the front panel over the ribbing from the back panel…
…and SC through both panels along the edge of the ribbing.
Continue to SC down the back edge of the arm hole until you reach the seam. Count your SCs; if you have an odd number, add or subtract one to make it even. Then, follow this pattern to add ribbing all around the armhole:
Row 1: CH9, turn. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 7 chains. SL ST into the first SC from arm hole edging, the stitch on which your CH9 was built. SL ST into the next SC from the edging. (8, plus the two slip stitches along the arm hole edging)
The section we just created, built on the CH9, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in the edging row, SC in first ST of the ribbing. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. SL ST in each of the next 2 unworked STS along the edging. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along the arm hole edging)
Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in the edging, SC in first ST of the ribbing. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)
Rows 5-?: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way around the arm hole. (8)
Here is an in-progress illustration of adding the ribbing:
Fasten off, leaving a 12″ tail for seaming.
Overlap ribbed edges as shown (front panel over back panel) and use finishing tail to sew them in place as marked.
Weave in ends.
LEFT SIDE ARM HOLE Remove the stitch marker on the left arm hole (as if you were wearing it) and join your yarn at that spot on the back panel. SC up the back edge of the arm hole, putting one SC in each row end. (Tip: the little “squares” in the fabric are each comprised of two rows each.)
When you get to the ribbing at the top, lay the ribbing from the front panel over the ribbing from the back panel…
… and SC through both panels along the edge of the ribbing.
Continue to SC down the front edge of the arm hole until you reach the seam. Then, follow the same ribbing pattern you did for the right arm hole to add ribbing all the way around the left arm hole.
Next, overlap ribbed edges as shown (front panel over back panel) and use finishing tail to sew them in place as marked.
You’ll need to add a little bit of seaming at the shoulders so that your beautiful top stays put!
Lay garment flat, front side up. Using the size chart in the illustration below, measure the instructed number of inches in from each edge (NOT counting the sleeves) and place a stitch marker on the front panel in those two locations at the top of your garment.
Beginning on either side, and holding the front panel ribbing over the back panel ribbing (lined up with the braid on the back panel, but not covering it), use yarn and a yarn needle to sew the pieces together from the edge of the garment to the stitch marker, then across the ribbing on one side (as shown by the red lines in the photo). Make sure that your final stitch goes all the way over the edge of the top layer of fabric to hold it down; this will ensure that it won’t stick up when stretched over your shoulders.
Fasten off and weave in ends on inside of garment. Repeat for the other shoulder.
Don’t forget to share your finished project!
Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to show if off! Be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!
This bright and colorful backpack is my 2nd design in a small series of artistic backpacks that are super simple to create! The Zig Zag Bag features five colors of yarn in a loose striping pattern, with some simple zigzags added at the end to give it a little extra oomph.
And can I brag about my middle child for a moment? This kid is always ready and willing to help me with blog stuff when I need it, even if it means modeling a “kinda girly bag” (his words). He’s always been interested in how I run my business, and I won’t be a bit surprised if he becomes an entrepreneur himself one day!
About the Cinch Bag Series
All designs in the Cinch Bag Series are made with the same pattern (all single crochet!), and use variations in color and surface detailing to produce unique designs with tons of personality. These easy-level patterns will make any newbie crocheter feel like a seasoned pro.
Here are each of the bags currently included in the collection:
About the Yarn
All of the samples I created for my Cinch Bag Series use Sarasota, a yarn by Cascade Yarns. Sarasota is a blend of cotton and acrylic in a #3 light weight. It’s soft enough to crochet with comfort, but sturdy enough to make a great bag. It comes in solids and heathers, and I’ve used both throughout the series.
With its large range of color options, it’s safe to say that Sarasota is my new favorite cotton blend for bags. (And you know how I love making bags!)
A great place to find the yarn for any of the patterns in the Cinch Bag Series is LoveCrafts.com! LoveCrafts is a global Makers community offering all kinds of yarn and supplies for crocheters, knitters, and more. I’ve bought yarn from them several times, and they always deliver quick service and quality!
LoveCrafts offered to provide the necessary yarn for the Mudcloth Bag as part of a fun giveaway. So be sure to enter below! The winner will receive two skeins of Sarasota and a 50yd roll of 3mm macrame cord for the Mudcloth Bag pattern, as well as some extra yarn-lovers’ goodies. The giveaway runs through the end of Saturday, July 4, and the winner will be announced soon after. (See Terms and Conditions for details.) Best of luck!
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
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Zig Zag Bag
View on Ravelry
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: 11″ wide x 14.75″ tall when laid flat (before assembly)
Yarn: Approx. 525 yards of #3 (light) cotton or cotton/acrylic blend. I used Sarasota, a cotton/acrylic blend from Cascade Yarn, in 5 colors:
COLOR A (“Black”): 60 yards
COLOR B (“Lunar Rock”): 140 yards
COLOR C (“Deep Violet”): 120 yards
COLOR D (“Turquoise”): 120 yards
COLOR E (“White”): 85 yards
Hook: E (3.5mm)
Gauge: 21 SC x 24 rows = 4″ square
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, ruler, and 3 yards of 3mm macrame cord (or other chosen material for drawstring backpack strap)
Terms and Abbreviations: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) FLO (front loop only)
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms. (2) You may choose to fasten off after each color change or carry your yarn up through the inside of the bag. I did a mixture of both, depending on how soon I would be using the same color again. (3) Your seam WILL be on a slant. This is due to the fact that we are joining but not turning our rounds; the slight offset of a crochet stitch’s top loops in relation to its base cause this slant to happen naturally. The only way to avoid the slant is to turn each round, but it results in a busier-looking fabric that doesn’t showcase the detailing of the bag nearly as well.
Round 1: Working into the back bumps, SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Working in FLO down the opposite side of the chain, SC across. (You have now worked in both sides of each chain.) Join. (112)
Rounds 2-82: CH1, SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join. (112) Use the following color pattern:
Rounds 2-8 (8 rounds total, including Round 1): COLOR A Rounds 9-12 (4 rounds): COLOR B Rounds 13-16 (4 rounds): COLOR C Rounds 17-18 (2 rounds): COLOR D Rounds 19-20 (2 rounds): COLOR E Rounds21-22 (2 rounds): COLOR D Rounds23-26 (4 rounds): COLOR C Rounds27-34 (8 rounds): COLOR B Rounds35-36 (2 rounds): COLOR E Rounds37-40 (4 rounds): COLOR D Rounds41-42 (2 rounds): COLOR E Rounds43-46 (4 rounds): COLOR B Rounds47-50 (4 rounds): COLOR C Rounds51-52 (2 rounds): COLOR D Rounds53-54 (2 rounds): COLOR E Rounds55-56 (2 rounds): COLOR D Rounds57-60 (4 rounds): COLOR C Rounds61-64 (4 rounds): COLOR B Rounds65-66 (2 rounds): COLOR E Rounds67-70 (4 rounds): COLOR D Rounds71-72 (2 rounds): COLOR E Rounds73-76 (4 rounds): COLOR B Rounds77-80 (4 rounds): COLOR C Rounds81-82 (2 rounds): COLOR D
After Round 82 is complete, fasten off and weave in ends.
Lay bag flat, seam side facing down. Locate the rightmost top stitch (leftmost for lefties) and attach COLOR E in that stitch; proceed to Round 83.
Round 83 (drawstring holes): CH1. SC in same ST and in next ST. CH3, SK 3 STS. (SC in each of the next 4 STS, CH3, SK 3 STS) around until only 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Join. (16 drawstring holes)
Round 84: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around, putting 3SC in each CH3 space. Join. (112)
Rounds 85-86: Switch to COLOR D. CH1, SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join. (112)
Using a yarn needle and COLOR A, add the surface detailing to the bag using the charts below. For this bag, the detailing is added to each section of COLOR B.
Hint: Click the image to make it larger on your screen. (I provided one color version and one black-and-white version; use whichever you find most helpful.)
Click image to enlarge
Here area few tips for adding the detailing:
Do each section separately. Cut your yarn first (each section will take a couple of yards), then start in the inside of the bag so that your starting tail can be woven in on the inside.
Start each section right at the seam.
Try adding all of the lines that go in the SAME direction before coming back around to add the remaining lines. (So instead of sewing like this: /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ , sew all of the / / / / / / / / and then come back and do the \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ .) This will help your lines to look more consistent.
If you run out of yarn before finishing a section, that’s ok! Just finish off with an additional strand.
Don’t be alarmed that your surface stitches slant just a bit. This is due to the nature of crochet stitches worked in unturned rounds.
Our bag so far
Please note that the images that follow are of a different bagfrom the Cinch Bag Collection, but all use the same techniques for shaping and adding drawstrings and tabs.
With the bag inside out, turn it upside down and position the bottom so that one end lays out in a triangular shape, with the seam going up the center. Use a ruler and measure a 3″ line across the corner of the base (mark the line with tape if it helps). Sew a seam across the line (through both layers) with COLOR A. Repeat on the opposite side.
Make sure all yarn is woven in, then turn bag right-side out. Here’s what it should look like on the bottom:
Next, we’ll make some little tabs to secure the ends of our drawstrings to the backpack. Use the following pattern to make two tabs:
To begin: With COLOR A, CH7.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (6)
Rows 2-6: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (6)
Fasten off leaving a 12″ finishing tail for sewing. Weave in starting tail.
Now, let’s attach them.
Step 1: Turn your bag so that the seam is facing UP. Locate the triangle on the bottom-left corner of the bag, formed when you shaped the bottom. Then, locate the edge of the triangle that is on the seamed side of the bag (pink arrow). This is the side to which we’ll attach our first tab.
Step 2: Using a yarn needle and the finishing tail, fold the tab over and sew it centered along the edge of the triangle. Work your yarn needle through a couple of stitches on the triangle edge as well as both top and bottom edges of the tab, so that you are sewing the tab closed while also attaching it to the bag.
Step 3: When finished, weave the tail into the inside of the bag.
Attach the second tab to the triangle at the bottom-right corner of the bag, again using the edge of the triangle that is on the seamed side of the bag.
Cut two 1.5 yard lengths of macrame cord. Lay bag flat and locate the furthermost hole to the right; starting from the outside, thread the first length of cord through the hole and then, working leftward, proceed to weave it in and out of each hole around the entire bag. You should end up with the cord exiting the bag through the hole next to your starting hole.
Do the same thing with the other 1.5 yard length of cord, starting in the leftmost hole and working rightward, continuing around the entire bag. (Both cords will be entering and exiting the same drawstring holes, in opposite directions.)
Take each pair of drawstring ends and thread them through their corresponding tabs at the bottom of the bag. Tie ends together in a knot beneath each tab. Don’t cut off the excess yet.
Cinch the backpack and wear it to test the length of your drawstrings, then readjust knot placement as needed. Trim off excess cord.
Done!
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Don’t forget to share your finished project!
Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to spread joy! Be sure to and tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!
This backpack, based on my Linen Stitch Baby Blanket color pattern, is my 3rd design in a small series of artistic backpacks that are super simple to create! The Fading Stripes Bag features three colors, using a striping pattern that creatively transitions from one color to the next.
About the Cinch Bag Series
All designs in the Cinch Bag Series are made with the same pattern (all single crochet!), and use variations in color and surface detailing to produce unique designs with tons of personality. These easy-level patterns will make any newbie crocheter feel like a seasoned pro.
Here are each of the bags currently included in the collection:
About the Yarn
All of the samples I created for my Cinch Bag Series use Sarasota, a yarn by Cascade Yarsn. Sarasota is a blend of cotton and acrylic in a #3 light weight. It’s soft enough to crochet with comfort, but sturdy enough to make a great bag. It comes in solids and heathers, and I’ve used both throughout the series.
With its large range of color options, it’s safe to say that Sarasota is my new favorite cotton blend for bags. (And you know how I love making bags!)
GIVEAWAY WITH LOVECRAFTS.COM!
A great place to find the yarn for any of the patterns in the Cinch Bag Series is LoveCrafts.com! LoveCrafts is a global Makers community offering all kinds of yarn and supplies for crocheters, knitters, and more. I’ve bought yarn from them several times, and they always deliver quick service and quality!
LoveCrafts offered to provide the necessary yarn for the Mudcloth Bag as part of a fun giveaway. So be sure to enter below! The winner will receive two skeins of Sarasota and a 50yd roll of 3mm macrame cord for the Mudcloth Bag pattern, as well as some extra yarn-lovers’ goodies. The giveaway runs through the end of Saturday, July 4, and the winner will be announced soon after. (See Terms and Conditions for details.) Best of luck!
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
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Fading Stripes Bag
View on Ravelry
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: 11″ wide x 14.75″ tall when laid flat (before assembly)
Yarn: Approx. 510 yards of #3 (light) cotton or cotton/acrylic blend. I used Sarasota, a cotton/acrylic blend from Cascade Yarn, in 3 colors:
COLOR A (“Navy”): 195 yards
COLOR B (“White”): 170 yards
COLOR C (“Deep Violet”): 145 yards
Hook: E (3.5mm)
Gauge: 21 SC x 24 rows = 4″ square
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, ruler, and 3 yards of 3mm macrame cord (or other chosen material for drawstring backpack strap)
Terms and Abbreviations: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) FLO (front loop only)
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms. (2) You may choose to fasten off after each color change or carry your yarn up through the inside of the bag. For this bag, I carried each color up until I was finished with it. (3) Your seam WILL be on a slant. This is due to the fact that we are joining but not turning our rounds; the slight offset of a crochet stitch’s top loops in relation to its base cause this slant to happen naturally. The only way to avoid the slant is to turn each round, but it results in a busier-looking fabric that doesn’t showcase the detailing of the bag nearly as well.
Round 1: Working into the back bumps, SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Working in FLO down the opposite side of the chain, SC across. (You have now worked in both sides of each chain.) Join. (112)
Rounds 2-82: CH1, SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join. (112) Use the following color pattern:
Rounds 2-22 (22 rounds total, including Round 1): COLOR A Round 23 (1 round): COLOR B Rounds 24-27 (4 rounds): COLOR A Rounds 28-29 (2 rounds): COLOR B Rounds 30-32 (3 rounds): COLOR A Rounds33-35 (3 rounds): COLOR B Rounds36-37 (2 rounds): COLOR A Rounds38-41 (4 rounds): COLOR B Round42 (1 round): COLOR A Rounds43-47 (5 rounds): COLOR B Round48 (1 round): COLOR C Rounds49-52 (4 rounds): COLOR B Rounds53-54 (2 rounds): COLOR C Rounds55-57 (3 rounds): COLOR B Rounds58-60 (3 rounds): COLOR C Rounds61-62 (2 rounds): COLOR B Rounds63-66 (4 rounds): COLOR C Round 67 (1 round): COLOR B Rounds68-82 (15 rounds): COLOR C
After Round 82 is complete, fasten off and weave in ends.
Lay bag flat, seam side facing down. Locate the rightmost top stitch (leftmost for lefties) and attach COLOR C in that stitch; proceed to Round 83.
Round 83 (drawstring holes): CH1. SC in same ST and in next ST. CH3, SK 3 STS. (SC in each of the next 4 STS, CH3, SK 3 STS) around until only 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Join. (16 drawstring holes)
Round 84: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around, putting 3SC in each CH3 space. Join. (112)
Rounds 85-86: CH1, SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join. (112)
With the bag inside out, turn it upside down and position the bottom so that one end lays out in a triangular shape, with the seam going up the center. Use a ruler and measure a 3″ line across the corner of the base (mark the line with tape if it helps). Sew a seam across the line (through both layers) with COLOR A. Repeat on the opposite side.
Make sure all yarn is woven in, then turn bag right-side out. Here’s what it should look like on the bottom:
Next, we’ll make some little tabs to secure the ends of our drawstrings to the backpack. Use the following pattern to make two tabs:
To begin: With COLOR A, CH7.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (6)
Rows 2-6: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (6)
Fasten off leaving a 12″ finishing tail for sewing. Weave in starting tail.
Now, let’s attach them.
Step 1: Turn your bag so that the seam is facing UP. Locate the triangle on the bottom-left corner of the bag, formed when you shaped the bottom. Then, locate the edge of the triangle that is on the seamed side of the bag (pink arrow). This is the side to which we’ll attach our tab.
Step 2: Using a yarn needle and the finishing tail, fold the tab over and sew it centered along the edge of the triangle. Work your yarn needle through a couple of stitches on the triangle edge as well as both top and bottom edges of the tab, so that you are sewing the tab closed while also attaching it to the bag.
Step 3: When finished, weave the tail into the inside of the bag.
Attach the second tab to the triangle at the bottom-right corner of the bag, again using the edge of the triangle that is on the seamed side of the bag.
Cut two 1.5 yard lengths of macrame cord. Lay bag flat and locate the furthermost hole to the right; starting from the outside, thread the first length of cord through the hole and then, working leftward, proceed to weave it in and out of each hole around the entire bag. You should end up with the cord exiting the bag through the hole next to your starting hole.
Do the same thing with the other 1.5 yard length of cord, starting in the leftmost hole and working rightward, continuing around the entire bag. (Both cords will be entering and exiting the same drawstring holes, in opposite directions.)
Take each pair of drawstring ends and thread them through their corresponding tabs at the bottom of the bag. Tie ends together in a knot beneath each tab. Don’t cut off the excess yet.
Cinch the backpack and wear it to test the length of your drawstrings, then readjust knot placement as needed. Trim off excess cord.
Done!
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Don’t forget to share your finished project!
Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to spread joy! Be sure to hashtag #yarnstashchallenge and tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!
The very first bag in my Cinch Bag Series is my absolute favorite. The inspiration for it came from traditional African mudcloth, a beautiful handmade cotton fabric that has been a part of Malian culture since the 12th century. And while my hook-and-yarn version isn’t exactly comparable to the fascinating way that genuine mudcloth is made (using fermented mud and plant dyes), I am still in love with this bag!
(While I was photographing the samples, my middle and youngest boys came outside to play and I convinced them to model for me. They were great sports!)
About the Cinch Bag Series
All designs in the Cinch Bag Series are made with the same pattern (all single crochet!), and use variations in color and surface detailing to produce unique designs with tons of personality. These easy-level patterns will make any newbie crocheter feel like a seasoned pro.
Here are each of the bags currently included in the collection:
About the Yarn
All of the samples I created for my Cinch Bag Series use Sarasota, a yarn by Cascade Yarns. Sarasota is a blend of cotton and acrylic in a #3 light weight. It’s soft enough to crochet with comfort, but sturdy enough to make a great bag. It comes in solids and heathers, and I’ve used both throughout the series.
With its large range of color options, it’s safe to say that Sarasota is my new favorite cotton blend for bags. (And you know how I love making bags!)
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Giveaway: WIN the yarn + cord for this project!
A great place to find the yarn for any of the patterns in the Cinch Bag Series is LoveCrafts.com! LoveCrafts is a global Makers community offering all kinds of yarn and supplies for crocheters, knitters, and more. I’ve bought yarn from them several times, and they always deliver quick service and quality!
LoveCrafts offered to provide the necessary yarn for the Mudcloth Bag as part of a fun giveaway. So be sure to enter below! The winner will receive two skeins of Sarasota and a 50yd roll of 3mm macrame cord for the Mudcloth Bag pattern, as well as some extra yarn-lovers’ goodies. The giveaway runs through the end of Saturday, July 4, and the winner will be announced soon after. (See Terms and Conditions for details.) Best of luck!
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
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Mudcloth Bag
View on Ravelry
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: 11″ wide x 14.75″ tall when laid flat (before assembly)
Yarn: Approx. 550 yards of #3 (light) cotton or cotton/acrylic blend. I used Sarasota, a cotton/acrylic blend from Cascade Yarn, in 2 colors:
COLOR A (“Navy Solid”): 300 yards
COLOR B (“White”): 250 yards
Hook: E (3.5mm)
Gauge: 21 SC x 24 rows = 4″ square
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, ruler, and 3 yards of 3mm macrame cord (or other chosen material for drawstring backpack strap)
Terms and Abbreviations: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) FLO (front loop only)
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms. (2) You may choose to fasten off after each color change or carry your yarn up through the inside of the bag. For this bag, I chose to carry both colors. (3) Your seam WILL be on a slant. This is due to the fact that we are joining but not turning our rounds; the slight offset of a crochet stitch’s top loops in relation to its base cause this slant to happen naturally. The only way to avoid the slant is to turn each round, but it results in a busier-looking fabric that doesn’t showcase the detailing of the bag nearly as well.
Round 1: Working into the back bumps, SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Working in FLO down the opposite side of the chain, SC across. (You have now worked in both sides of each chain.) Join. (112)
Rounds 2-82: CH1, SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join. (112) Use the following color pattern:
Rounds 2-8 (8 rounds total, including Round 1): COLOR A Rounds 9-13 (5 rounds): COLOR B Rounds 14-17 (4 rounds): COLOR A Rounds 18-19 (2 rounds): COLOR B Round 20 (1 round): COLOR A Rounds 21-25 (5 rounds): COLOR B Rounds 26-30 (5 rounds): COLOR A Rounds 31-32 (2 rounds): COLOR B Rounds 33-37 (5 rounds): COLOR A Rounds 38-39 (2 rounds): COLOR B Rounds 40-44 (5 rounds): COLOR A Rounds 45-52 (8 rounds): COLOR B Round 53 (1 round): COLOR A Rounds 54-55 (2 rounds): COLOR B Rounds 56-60 (5 rounds): COLOR A Rounds 61-64 (4 rounds): COLOR B Rounds 65-66 (2 rounds): COLOR A Round 67 (1 round): COLOR B Rounds 68-72 (5 rounds): COLOR A Rounds 73-77 (5 rounds): COLOR B Round 78 (1 round): COLOR A Round 79 (1 round): COLOR B Rounds 80-82 (3 rounds): COLOR A
After Round 82 is complete, fasten off and weave in ends.
Lay bag flat, seam side facing down. Locate the rightmost top stitch (leftmost for lefties) and attach COLOR A in that stitch; proceed to Round 83.
Round 83 (drawstring holes): CH1. SC in same ST and in next ST. CH3, SK 3 STS. (SC in each of the next 4 STS, CH3, SK 3 STS) around until only 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Join. (16 drawstring holes)
Round 84: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around, putting 3SC in each CH3 space. Join. (112)
Rounds 85-86: CH1, SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join. (112)
Using a yarn needle, add the surface detailing to the bag using the chart below. COLOR A is represented by black, and COLOR B is represented by white.
Here area few tips for adding the detailing:
Do each section separately. Cut your yarn first (each section will take a couple of yards), then start in the inside of the bag so that your starting tail can be woven in on the inside.
Start each section right at the seam.
Try adding all of the lines that go in the SAME direction before coming back around to add the remaining lines. (For example: instead of sewing like this: /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ , sew all of the / / / / / / / / and then come back and do the \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ .) This will help your lines to look more consistent.
If you run out of yarn before finishing a section, that’s ok! Just finish off with an additional strand.
Don’t be alarmed that your surface stitches slant just a bit. This is due to the nature of crochet stitches worked in unturned rounds.
Our bag so far
Please note that the images that follow are of a different bagfrom the Cinch Bag Collection, but all use the same techniques for shaping and adding drawstrings and tabs.
With the bag inside out, turn it upside down and position the bottom so that one end lays out in a triangular shape, with the seam going up the center. Use a ruler and measure a 3″ line across the corner of the base (mark the line with tape if it helps). Sew a seam across the line (through both layers) with COLOR A. Repeat on the opposite side.
Make sure all yarn is woven in, then turn bag right-side out. Here’s what it should look like on the bottom:
Next, we’ll make some little tabs to secure the ends of our drawstrings to the backpack. Use the following pattern to make two tabs:
To begin: With COLOR A, CH7.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (6)
Rows 2-6: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (6)
Fasten off leaving a 12″ finishing tail for sewing. Weave in starting tail.
Now, let’s attach them.
Step 1: Turn your bag so that the seam is facing UP. Locate the triangle on the bottom-left corner of the bag, formed when you shaped the bottom. Then, locate the edge of the triangle that is on the seamed side of the bag (pink arrow). This is the side to which we’ll attach our first tab.
Step 2: Using a yarn needle and the finishing tail, fold the tab over and sew it centered along the edge of the triangle. Work your yarn needle through a couple of stitches on the triangle edge as well as both top and bottom edges of the tab, so that you are sewing the tab closed while also attaching it to the bag.
Step 3: When finished, weave the tail into the inside of the bag.
Attach the second tab to the triangle at the bottom-right corner of the bag, again using the edge of the triangle that is on the seamed side of the bag.
Cut two 1.5 yard lengths of macrame cord. Lay bag flat and locate the furthermost hole to the right; starting from the outside, thread the first length of cord through the hole and then, working leftward, proceed to weave it in and out of each hole around the entire bag. You should end up with the cord exiting the bag through the hole next to your starting hole.
Do the same thing with the other 1.5 yard length of cord, starting in the leftmost hole and working rightward, continuing around the entire bag. (Both cords will be entering and exiting the same drawstring holes, in opposite directions.)
Take each pair of drawstring ends and thread them through their corresponding tabs at the bottom of the bag. Tie ends together in a knot beneath each tab. Don’t cut off the excess yet.
Cinch the backpack and wear it to test the length of your drawstrings, then readjust knot placement as needed. Trim off excess cord.
Done!
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Don’t forget to share your finished project!
Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to spread joy! Be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!
This project is part of the Yarn Stash Challenge. For more great ideas, or to join the fun, visit the Yarn Stash Challenge blog post!
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A set of coasters is a quick, easy project, and it’s a great stashbuster, too! One of my favorite styles of coaster is known as a “mug rug” because it looks just like a tiny rug. How cute is that?
The Process
All you need for this pattern are several skeins of the same yarn weight. I used 5 skeins of #3 yarn and chose shades of blue, tan and ivory, with some white furry yarn thrown in there too.
After I choose my yarn, I simply crocheted rows of SC, fastening off and changing colors every row. I added fringe to the sides, pulling the row ends through with the added fringe to keep everything secure. Then I trimmed the fringe. Done!
I’ll write out the actual pattern below, but feel free to adjust it to make it your own!
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Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
Finished Size: 5.5″ wide x 4.25″ tall (excludes fringe)
Yarn: #3 weight yarn in 5 different colors. Feel free to mix textures, brands, and fibers. You’ll only need about 30 yards combined. (See Notes for my specific yarn choices.)
Hooks: F (4.0mm)
Gauge: 4 SC x 5.5 rows = 1″
You’ll also need: Scotch tape
Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches) CH (chain) SC (single crochet)
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) The specific yarns I used in my samples are:
COLOR A: Loops & Threads Coastal Cotton (in “Indigo”)
COLOR B: Yarn Bee Warm & Cozy (in “Oat”)
COLOR C: Yarn Bee Cloud 9 (in “Cream”)
COLOR D: Lion Brand Jeans (in “Brand New”)
COLOR E: Baby Bee Sweet Delight (in “Toy Elephant Marled”)
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The Pattern
The first thing you’ll want to do (if you’re following my color sequence) is label your yarns A, B, C, D, E so you know which goes where in the pattern. Follow this pattern:
CH + Row 1: A Row 2: B Row 3: C Row 4: D Row 5: A Row 6: E Row 7: A Row 8: D Row 9: A Row 10: B Row 11: A Row 12: D Row 13: A Row 14: E Row 15: A Row 16: D Row 17: A Row 18: B Row 19: A Row 20: D Row 21: C Row 22: E Row 23: A
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To Begin: With COLOR A, CH23.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Switch to next color; fasten off. (22)
Rows 2-22: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Switch to next color; fasten off. (22)
Row 23: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Fasten off. (22)
Here’s what we have so far:
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Fringe Attach fringe using these instructions and the photo below:
Insert hook in between the first two yarn tails. Cut a small strand of yarn that matches one of them and wrap it around the hook.
Pull new yarn through to create a small loop.
Take the 2 tails of the new yarn and the yarn ends on either side of your loop in your hand. You should have 4 strands.
Pull all four strands down through the loop.
Tighten the knot using the two tails of the new yarn.Repeat instructions 1-5, moving down both sides of the mug rug until all ends have been combined into fringe, then move on to #6.
Lay mug rug flat and smooth out the fringe so that it isn’t tangled. Tape it down with a piece of scotch tape wherever you want to cut it, then cut along the tape to get rid of the excess yarn.
Done!
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Don’t forget to share your finished project!
Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to spread joy! Be sure to hashtag #yarnstashchallenge and tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!
