Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

A loooooong time ago, I received a shipment from Cascade Yarns and they threw in a bonus ball of a yarn that I’d never used before: Heritage Paints. It sat on my shelf for quite a while, because I honestly didn’t know what to do with it. It was a #1 super fine sock yarn, and the only other experience I’d had with that weight of yarn was when, as a newer crocheter, I’d purchased some of another brand and worked with it for about 2 minutes before I gave up on it because it was so thin and tangly.

Eventually, about a month ago, I started wondering what it would be like to make a hat out of sock yarn. I got so curious that I finally grabbed the Heritage Paints off my shelf and gave it a try. And it was actually really fun!

I honestly don’t know how to compare Heritage yarn to other #1 yarns, because I think the issue I had with that other yarn years ago was probably more due to my inexperience than it was about the yarn. But what I can tell you is that Heritage yarn is really, really easy to use. It actually reminds me a lot of Cascade Longwood yarn (and you all know how much I loooooove that yarn). It’s just a lot thinner. Sure, it takes longer to make a hat, but the gorgeousness of the finished fabric makes up for the time spent!

I stuck with a simple formula of a faux-cinched crown and single crocheted body, because I’m a firm believer in keeping the stitches simple when I’m working with a busy yarn. And I found that working this pattern in single crochet allowed the design of the yarn to show up in nice, neat stripes.

My other philosophy of using busy yarn is that it helps to balance it out with a not-so-busy yarn, so I did the ribbing in Heritage Solids in the color Snow, and I also made a pom pom with my Clover Pom Pom Maker using the same yarn. The resulting hat has such a nice feel and drape. Like wearing a cozy sock on your head! 🙂

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OAKLEY SLOUCH HAT

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 10″ tall x 9.5″ wide (when laid flat)

Hook: E (3.5mm)

Yarn: About 330 yards (not including optional pom pom) of Heritage Yarn by Cascade Yarns. Heritage is a #1 super fine weight yarn that is very easy to work with. (I think it feels more like a thin sport weight yarn.) Heritage comes in solids, prints, and paints; for the body of the hat in my photos, I used Heritage Prints in “Beach Cliff”, and for the band and the pom pom, I used Heritage Solids in “Snow”.

Gauge: 29 rows of 23 SC = 4″ square.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

Abbreviations Used:
   MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
BLO (back loops only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Do not join or turn unless instructed to do so. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: Make a MC; CH1.

Round 1: 10HDC in MC. (10)

Round 2: 2HDC in each ST around. (20)

Round 3: 2HDC in each ST around. (40)

Round 4: 2HDC in each ST around. (80)

Tip: Your base should be looking very wavy at this point.

Round 5: (2HDC in next ST, HDC in next ST) around. (120)

Rounds 6-50 (or until hat is about 8″ tall when laid flat): SC in each ST around. (120)

Round 51: SC in each of the first 118 STS (2 STS remain unworked). SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS to smooth down the round.

If using a different color for the band, you can switch to that new color now.

Ribbed Band

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Row 1: CH15. SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in remaining 13 CHS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the final round of the hat. (14, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 13 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (14)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 13 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the final round of the hat. (14, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (120 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends.

Optional: Create and attach pom pom in a coordinating color. (I used a large Clover Pom Pom Maker.)

A couple of months ago, we took our annual family trip to my favorite Michigan spot, South Haven! It was an amazing week full of great food, gorgeous sunsets, and lots and lots of beach time.

Of course I had to stop in at Needle In A Haystack (edit: sadly, this cute little yarn store is now closed for good) for some Cascade Longwood yarn so that I would have something to work on down at the beach!

This is probably my favorite yarn out of anything I’ve used. It’s so soft and has such a stunning, defined finish, and gorgeous drape. I first experienced it (the #3 weight version) during last year’s trip, which resulted in the South Haven Slouch. It’s not the easiest yarn to find, but you can always order it online from stores like Jimmy Beans Wool. It’s pricier than what you find in the big craft stores, so I save it for my most special projects, like the Herringbone Baby Hat I recently made for my son (Due in December).

This year’s “vacation pattern” is also a slouchy hat, because frankly, it’s really hard to crochet anything bigger without it getting dragged across the sand every time the wind blows. And if you’ve spent any time around my blog, you probably noticed that I loooooove slouchy hats. I never get bored with them! Like the South Haven Slouch, this one also uses the #3 weight version of Longwood, called Longwood Sport.

I usually use temporary names for my patterns until it’s time to publish them, and then I come up with something permanent. I called this one the Shiplap Slouch as I was making it, and the name just stuck. Something about the color and the lines reminds me of shiplap. (Yes, I do watch a lot of Fixer Upper, why do you ask?)

OH, and before I forget… yes, there’s a matching cowl pattern!

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SHIPLAP SLOUCH HAT

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 9.5″ tall x 9.5″ wide (when laid flat)

Hook: H (5.00mm) and G (4.25mm)

Yarn: Approximately 230 yards of Cascade Longwood Sport, a #3 light yarn.

Gauge: Your first 5 rounds should measure 3″ across.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

Abbreviations Used:
   MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
HDC (half double crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds and do not join unless instructed to do so.
(3) Since we are working in a seamless round, your ribbing rows will not meet up perfectly in the back. This is unavoidable, and the alternative (joining each round) is much, much more obvious. (Trust me, I tried it.)
(4) Pattern uses regular HDC to set up each ribbing row. The abbreviation is very similar to HHDC, so pay attention!
(5) To find the “3rd loop” (as mentioned in Round 13 and every 4 rows after that), reach over your top loops and insert your hook into the loop just past (below) the top loop that is furthest from you. (Also called the Camel Stitch or RibHDC.)

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: With H hook, make a magic circle; CH1.

Round 1: 9 HHDC in MC. (9)

Round 2: 2 HHDC in each ST around. (18)

Round 3: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in next ST) around. (27)

Round 4: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)

Round 5: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (45)

Round 6: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (54)

Round 7: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (63)

Round 8: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 6 STS) around. (72)

Round 9: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (81)

Round 10: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 8 STS) around. (90)

Round 11: HHDC in each ST around. (90)

Round 12: HDC in each ST around. (90)

Round 13: HHDC in 3rd loop of each ST around. (90)

Round 14: HHDC in each ST around. (90)

Round 15: HHDC in each ST around. (90)

Round 16: HDC in each ST around. (90)

Rounds 17-32: Repeat Rounds 13-16. (90)

Round 33: HHDC in 3rd loop of each ST around. You should now have 6 rows of ribbing. (90)

Switch to G Hook.

Rounds 34-39: HHDC in each ST around. (90)

Round 40: HHDC in each of the first 86 STS (4 STS remain). SC in each of the next 2 STS, SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (90)

Fasten off and weave in your ends.

Sometimes, you find a yarn that is just asking to do all the work for you.

That’s how I felt when I found Landscapes (by Lion Brand). The color changes were so gradual and pretty that I knew it was begging to become a simple hat with an eye-catching finish. I’m all about writing patterns that confident beginners can do, and this is one of those patterns!

To pull the colors of the hat into an organized look, I used two skeins of Landscapes: one in Metropolis (a gorgeous mix of silvery purple and black) for the body and one in coordinating Black for the ribbed band. That’s the great thing about Landscapes; it comes in an array of multi-colored (self-striping) hues, as well as coordinating solids.

I also picked up a black Lion Brand Pom, because I’d never used one before. I love how it all came together!

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SOPHIA SLOUCH CROCHET PATTERN

Level: Easy

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 9” across the bottom of the band, and is 10” tall (not including pom pom).

Materials:

• I Hook (5.50mm) and G hook (4.25mm)
• Yarn needle
• 180 yards of Yarn A: Lion Brand Landscapes in a self-striping hue (sample shown in Metropolis) and about 40 yards of Yarn B: Lion Brand Landscapes in a coordinating solid hue (sample shown in Black). (Note: If using the recommended yarn, you’ll need to purchase 3 total skeins – two self-striping and one solid. If you instead choose to do the band of the hat in the same self-striping yarn, you can combine the total yardage and purchase just two skeins of that.)
• Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)
• 1 Lion Brand Pom in coordinating color (optional)

Gauge:
With larger hook, 9 rows of 7 SC = 2″ square.

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:

(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) This hat is worked in a continuous spiral until the band. Do not join, chain or turn until instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
(3) The pom pom is optional.
(4) Because of the self-striping nature of the yarn, and the fact that we need to use more than 1 skein of it, be advised that you may have to pull some yarn out of the second skein in order to find the same color point that your current skein is at in the self-striping pattern. This is just the nature of multi-colored yarns.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using larger hook, with Yarn A, make a magic circle.

Round 1:  10 HDC in MC (10)

Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around (20)

Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around (40)

Note: At this point, it’s going to start looking wavy. You’re doing it right! The back of the hat has a faux-cinched look to it, and this is how we achieve it. Once you get to the body of the hat, it will start to straighten itself out naturally.

Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (60)

Round 5: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 STS) around (80)

Rounds 6-31: SC around (80)

Round 32: SC in each of the first 79 STS (all but the last ST), SL ST into final ST of the round (80)

Join Yarn B. Fasten off Yarn A. 

Round 33: CH1. (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 6 STS) around. Join to the top of the first SC2TOG with a SL ST. Do not fasten off; continue to instructions for Ribbed Band. (70)

Ribbed Band

Switch to smaller hook.

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Row 1: CH9. SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in remaining 7 CHS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (8, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat.

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (70 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends. Attach Lion Brand Pom (optional).

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

Last month I published the pattern for the Herringbone Buttoned Cowl, which seems to have gotten a great response!

Lots of you loved it, and I promised that I would make a slouch hat to match. Well, it’s a little later than I had planned on releasing it, but here it is!

The Yarn

For both patterns, I used the gorgeous, relatively-new Vanna’s Style (from Lion Brand), which is a DK (that’s a #3 weight) yarn. (Don’t confuse this with Vanna’s Choice, which is a #4 worsted yarn!) This yarn is stunning. It has the most beautiful stitch definition, which shows off the rows of the Herringbone stitch really nicely. It isn’t too shiny, but has just enough sheen to give it an elegant look. I haven’t found Vanna’s Style in any of my local stores yet, but you can always purchase it direct from Lion Brand.

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HERRINGBONE SLOUCH

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 9.5″ wide x 9.5″ tall (when laid flat)

Hook: G (4.25mm) & H (5.00mm)

Yarn: About 200-210 yards of Vanna’s Style DK Yarn by Lion Brand (not including optional pom pom). Vanna’s Style is a #3 light yarn.  The sample is shown in “Silver”.

Gauge: 16 rows of 17 HHDC = 4″ (see “Special Stitch” below for explanation of HHDC)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
BLO (back loops only)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: Leaving at least a 12″ starting tail, CH33. (We’ll use the starting tail to cinch the hat at the end.)

Row 1: HHDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (32)

Rows 2-88, or until piece measures 22″ long (just make sure you do an even number of rows): CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (32)

Switch to H Hook.

Row 89: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly down the long edge, putting 1SC in each row. (88)

Ribbed Band

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to Row 89 of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Ribbing Row 1: CH9. SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in remaining 7 CHS. SL ST to the first SC of Row 89. SL ST to the next ST of that row. (8, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Ribbing Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the previous ribbing row. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Ribbing Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Row 89. (8, plus 2 SL STS)

Ribbing Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the previous ribbing row. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way down the edge.

Because Row 89 consisted of an even number of stitches, you should be ending with a repeat of Row 4, with your hook now at the bottom corner of the flat piece (see Figure 1, below).

Seaming & Cinching the Hat Closed

Fasten off your yarn, leaving a 24″ tail. Bring the short ends of the hat together and sew them up using your tail and a yarn needle (see Figure 2). When you reach the top, tie a knot, fasten off and weave in the end.

Thread your starting tail through the yarn needle and weave it in and out along the very top edge of the hat (see figure 3). I wove mine through every two rows. When you pull on the starting tail, you’ll start to notice the hat beginning to cinch itself up.

When you’ve gone all the way around the circle, pull the tail as tight as you can (without breaking the yarn!) and tie a couple of knots. You may want to sew across the cinch a few times to really secure it. Then, fasten off and weave in the tail. Turn your hat right-side out.

Done! Add a pom pom if you want, or leave as is.

This season, I’ve gotten very excited about the Herringbone Stitch. There are so many different ways to change up the look of this stitch! Today, I’m introducing a set of patterns that utilize the Herringbone Double Crochet stitch (HbDC), worked in a continuous round.

The interesting thing about this stitch for me was that as I started experimenting with it, I quickly discovered that while the right side of my work kind of bored me, I was intrigued by the texture showing up on the wrong side. So, I designed the Savannah Slouch Hat to showcase the wrong side!

This pattern is great for a confident beginner to wants to branch out beyond those most basic stitches we all learn at first.

And, it has a matching scarf which is even more beginner friendly! Showcasing a different texture on each side, the matching scarf is so simple; you’ll definitely want to bring it along to your next Netflix binge.

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SAVANNAH SLOUCH HAT

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 9″ tall x 9.5″ wide (when laid flat)

Hooks: K (6.5mm) and H (5.00mm)

Yarn: About 150 yards of Vanna’s Choice by Lion Brand (that’s a little less than 1 skein). Vanna’s Choice is a #4 aran yarn. The sample is shown in “Linen”.

Gauge: With larger hook, 10 rows of 11 HbDC = 4″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker, 3 small buttons, sewing needle, and thread to match yarn color.

Abbreviations Used:
   MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
HbDC (herringbone double crochet; see “special stitch” below)

Special Stitch:
HbDC – Herringbone Double Crochet. When worked in the round without turning, this stitch creates two beautiful and very different textures on either side of the piece. Here’s how you do it:

HbDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through first loop on hook. Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over again and pull the loop through both loops on the hook.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: Make a MC; CH1.

Round 1: 12 HbDC in MC. (12)

Round 2: 2 HbDC in each ST around. (24)

Round 3: 2 HbDC in each ST around. (48)

Round 4: (2 HbDC in next ST, 1 HbDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (64)

Rounds 5-15: HbDC in each ST around. (64)

If you want a slouchier hat, add more rounds here before moving on to Round 16.

Round 16: HbDC in each of the first 56 STS (6 STS remain). HDC in each of the next 2 STS. SC in each of the next 2 STS. SL ST in each of the 2 remaining STS. (64)

Switch to H Hook.

Round 17: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. (Do not join.) CH9. This is the base for our button flap. (64 + CH9)

Round 18: Turn. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in remaining 7 CHs. Continue to SC in each ST around (you’re going in the opposite direction from Round 17). (72)

Rounds 19-23: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around (including the button flap). (72)

Round 24 (edging): CH1, do not turn. SC in each ST around flap and around the entire base, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC.

Fasten off. Turn hat inside out to display the “wrong side” (the one with more texture). Now considering this the outside of the hat, weave your ends securely into the inside of the hat.

Button Flap
Line up the flap with the section of the band that it will overlap, and use a needle and appropriately-colored thread to sew it in place. Position buttons as desired and sew them in place as well.

Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

I love the idea of color-blocking. It’s such a modern twist on the classic stripes, and there aren’t nearly as many ends to weave in at the end. That’s a win for me!

For this hat pattern, I chose 3 neutral colors from Cascade Yarn’s Longwood line (which has soooo many color options). Longwood is one of my absolute all-time favorite yarns; I used it in the Herringbone Baby Hat, Easy Herringbone Earwarmer, Super Plush Infinity Scarf, and the Yenni and South Haven Slouches (the latter two use the sport weight version of the yarn). I honestly can’t get enough of its softness, drape and amazing stitch definition!

For the pom pom (which is optional and not explained in the pattern), I used my brand new Clover Pom-Pom Maker. I love that thing and wish I’d picked one up long ago. I’ve always made my pom poms the old fashioned way, wrapping yarn around a piece of cardboard and then giving it a significant “haircut”. But with the pom pom maker, the pom pom comes out almost perfect and only a little trimming is required – which means fuller, rounder pom poms.

And since you guys love pattern sets, I designed a cowl to match!

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This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

CARLYLE SLOUCH HAT

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 9″ tall x 9.5″ wide (when laid flat)

Hook: I (5.50mm)

Yarn: Approximately 215 yards (not including optional pom pom) of Cascade Longwood, a #4 medium yarn. Broken down, you will need about 55 yards of Color A (not including optional pom pom), 65 yards of Color B, and 95 yards of Color C. I used colors “Oatmeal”, “Doeskin Heather” and “Walnut”, respectively.

Gauge: 7 rows of 8 HHDC = 2″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

Abbreviations Used:
   MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
SC2TOG (single crochet two together)
BLO (back loop only)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds and do not join unless instructed to do so.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: With I hook and COLOR A, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).

Round 1: 10 HHDC in MC. (10)

Round 2: 2 HHDC in each ST around. (20)

Round 3: 2 HHDC in each ST around. (40)

Round 4: 2 HHDC in each ST around. (80)

Rounds 5-8: HHDC in each ST around. (80)

Switch to COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A.

Rounds 9-16: HHDC in each ST around. (80)

Switch to COLOR C; fasten off COLOR B.

Rounds 17-23: HHDC in each ST around. (80)

Round 24: HHDC in each of the first 78 STS. SC in next ST. SL ST in last ST. (80)

Round 25: CH1. SC in same ST and in each of the next 7 STS. SC2TOG. (SC in each of the next 8 STS, SC2TOG) around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (72)

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Row 1: CH9. SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in remaining 7 CHS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (8, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat.

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (72 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends.

If you’ve been around my blog for a while (or if you take one look at my patterns page), you’ve probably noticed that I am drawn to single-color, neutral yarns. This is totally a preference thing, and I have nothing against those of you who like variegated yarn… it’s just not what I normally reach for.

But this season, I gave myself a challenge. My challenge was to find ways to use multi-colored (a.k.a. self-striping) yarns in some of my designs, while still keeping them modern-looking. So I went to one of my yarn stores and wandered the aisles until I found my first target: Lion Brand’s Tweed Stripes in “Caramel”. Of course I was drawn to the neutral hues, so I thought that might be a good compromise for me to begin with!

I wanted to keep the pattern really simple, because in my opinion, the busier the yarn, the simpler the stitches should be. Intricate stitches tend to get lost more easily in multi-colored yarns, and even more so in tweeds. Sometimes, less really is more. So, the body of this hat is just comprised of alternating SC and HDC rounds.

I also really wanted to balance out the busyness of all of the colors, so I chose a yarn from the Vanna’s Choice line, also by Lion Brand (color: “linen”) that matched the lightest color in the tweed yarn, and used that to make the band and the pom pom. Honestly, I would not have liked my result nearly as much if I’d done the entire thing in the tweed, but I think the linen color at the top and bottom of the hat really brings it all together and makes it work.

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RIVERBED SLOUCH HAT

Level: Easyish

Size:
One Size Fits Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 9.5” across at band, and is 10” tall.

Materials:

• K hook (6.50mm) and H hook (5.0mm)
• Yarn needle
• 120 yards of Yarn A: Lion Brand Tweed Stripes (sample shown in Caramel) and about 60 yards of Yarn B: Vanna’s Choice in a coordinating color (sample shown in Linen). Tweed Stripes is a Bulky #5 yarn, and Vanna’s Choice is a Worsted/Aran #4 yarn.
• Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)

Gauge:
With larger hook, 6 rows of 7 HDC & SC (alternate each row) = 2″ square.

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:

(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) This hat is worked in a continuous spiral until the band. Do not join, chain or turn until instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
(3) The pom pom is optional.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using K (6.50mm) hook, with Yarn A, make a magic circle.

Round 1:  10 HDC in MC (10)

Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around (20)

Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around (40)

Note: At this point, it’s going to start looking wavy. You’re doing it right! The back of the hat has a faux-cinched look to it, and this is how we achieve it. Once you get to the body of the hat, it will start to straighten itself out naturally.

Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (60)

Round 5: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 5 STS) around (70)

Round 6: SC around (70)

Round 7: HDC around (70)

Rounds 8-21: Repeat Rounds 6-7 (70)

Round 22: SC in first 69 STS (all but the last ST), SL ST in final stitch of the round (70)

Join Yarn B. Fasten off Yarn A. Switch to H (5.0mm) hook.

Round 23: CH1; SC around. Join with a SL ST to first SC. (70)

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go. Click here to view my video tutorial for this technique.

Row 1: CH9. SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in remaining 7 CHS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (8, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat.

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (70 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends.

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for supplying the yarn for this sample!

If you’ve spent any time around my blog, you know how much I loooooove slouch hats. I just can’t get enough of them. I never considered myself a hat person until I created and tried on my first slouchy hat, but from that moment on, I was hooked.

Today, I’m adding another slouchy pattern to my growing collection!

This one is sort of a “sister hat” to the South Haven Slouch. It uses the same basic structure, but I’ve added some cute new detailing between the ribbing sections to create a very different finished look.

For the sample, I used Lion Brand’s LB Collection 100% Superwash Merino Wool in “Cherry”. I love this yarn. It’s only available on Lion Brand’s web site or in their stores, but it’s so worth ordering. It’s the same yarn I used for this gorgeous cowl.

I tried to photograph the hat from a few different angles to really give you a sense of the finished look. Here’s what it looks like from the (angled) front:

And here’s the back. Like the South Haven Slouch, this one has a rippled top that gives it a faux-cinched look.

So grab your hooks and yarn, and let’s get started!

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THE MARION SLOUCH HAT

Level: Easyish (technically closer to intermediate, but if you’re a confident crocheter and comfortable with reading patterns, you canpull this off!)

Size:
One Size Fits Most (Teen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 10” across at band, and is 9” tall. I like just a little bit of slouch in my slouch hats, but if you like more, you can add rounds to the body of the hat.

Materials:

• H hook (5.00mm) and G hook (4.25mm)
• Yarn needle
• 240-250 yards of Lion Brand LB Collection 100% Superwash Merino Wool. The color in the photos is Cherry.
• Stitch marker or bobby pin (optional, but super helpful)

Gauge:
With H hook, 7 rows of 9HDC = 2″ square

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
CH (chain)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SK (skip)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
SC2TOG (single crochet 2 together)
RibHDC (also known as Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC; see Special Terminology, below)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. Instead of putting your HDC in the top loops, reach your hook past the back loop where you’ll find a 3rd loop on the side of the stitch. Insert your hook there to create your HDC. This forces both of the top loops to rest on the front of your project, creating a ribbing effect. In other patterns it is also referred to as a Camel Stitch or RibHDC.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in joined rounds. You will turn at the beginning of some rounds, and not others. Pay attention!
(3) Even though this pattern is worked in joined rounds, it is recommended that you keep a stitch marker or two handy. I found that placing a stitch marker in the first and last stitches of my rounds really helped me to not get confused about my starting and ending stitches. When working back and forth between regular loops and 3rd loops (beginning on Round 7), it can be hard to tell which stitch is technically your last stitch of the round… and, when we start turning our rounds during the SC+HDC texture in Round 11, it’s just easier to keep track of where to place your stitches.
(4) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(5) It goes without saying, but count your stitches! Once you’re done increasing, you should consistently have 100 stitches per round (until you get to the band).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using H Hook, make a magic circle.

Round 1:  CH1. 10 HDC in MC. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (10)

Round 2: CH1. 2 HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (20)

Round 3: CH1. 2 HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (40)

Note: At this point you should have a floppy-looking circle. This is a good thing. It will continue to get floppier as we increase, and then it will smooth itself out on the body of the hat. That’s how we create the cinched look on the top.

Round 4: CH1. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (60)

Round 5: CH1. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (80)

Round 6: CH1. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 7: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 8: CH1. HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 9: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 10: CH1. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Note: Joining and turning while working in the round is something you don’t see very often in patterns, and that little slip stitch at the end of the round can really throw you off because when you turn, it looks like a stitch… but it’s not, and needs to be ignored. This is where using a stitch marker will really come in handy. Just before you SL ST to the first SC in Round 10, mark your final stitch of the round with a stitch marker (1st photo). Then do your join (2nd photo). When you move on to Round 11, CH1 and turn as per the instructions (3rd photo). When instructed to SK the first ST, you’ll know to skip right over the stitch marker and do your first SC+HDC in the stitch immediately following it (4th photo).

Rounds 11-13: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 14: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 15: CH1, do not turn. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 16: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 17: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 18: CH1. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Rounds 19-21: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 22: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 23: CH1, do not turn. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 24: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 25: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 26: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 27: CH1. (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 8 STS) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (90)

Round 28: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (90)

Switch to G hook.

Rounds 29-38: SC around.

Note: At some point around Round 33, you may want to check the band of the hat to see if it’s measuring about 10 inches. If it’s measuring much bigger than that, you may want to grab a smaller hook to finish things off.

Smooth out the round by slip stitching into the first 3 STS of the next round. Fasten off and weave in ends.

© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

I recently had a chance to sample some Lion’s Pride Woolspun (by Lion Brand Yarn), and boy, was I impressed!

This #5 bulky weight yarn is awesome. Sold exclusively at Michael’s stores, it’s a sturdy yarn that doesn’t split and shows stitch definition very clearly. I had been looking around for a nice bulky yarn that I could use to make a chunky version of the popular Yenni Slouch, and when I saw this yarn, I knew it would be perfect.

Just look at that stitch definition!

I went a little crazy and designed a matching scarf. It’s big, it’s chunky, and it’s adorable.

Isn’t my model adorable, too? She rocked this photo shoot.

So grab your bigger hooks and join me for a quick, trendy project that will keep your head warm all winter long!

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This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

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RUSTIC SLOUCH

Level: Easy

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 10.5” across at band, and is 10” tall.

Materials:

• N hook (9.00mm) and I hook (5.50mm)
• Yarn needle
• Lion’s Pride Woolspun (from Lion Brand), 190-200 yards. The color in the photos is Taupe.
  *About Lion’s Pride Woolspun:
    Weight: #5 Bulky
                Fiber: 80% acrylic, 20% wool
  Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 127 yd (116 m)
• Button embellishment (mine is 1″)

Gauge: With N hook, a row of 7HDC = 3″ in length.

Abbreviations Used:
CH (chain)
SK (skip)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect. View a tutorial here.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) The button is just a decorative embellishment (non-functional).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using N Hook, and leaving an 18″ tail, CH21.

Row 1:  SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (20)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (20)

Row 3: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (20)

Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 18 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (20)

Row 5: CH1, turn. Working in 3rd loops, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (20)

Rows 6-44: Repeat Rows 2-5, in order, until you have 44 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4).

Switch to I hook.

Row 45: CH1, DO NOT turn. Begin to SC down the LONG edge of the project, putting 5SC in each section between ribbing rows (see photo below for a visual). You should end up with 55SC. Then, CH8 to create the base of your button flap.

Row 46: Turn your work. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Continue to SC across. (62)

Rows 47-50: CH1, turn. SC across. (62)

Row 51 (edging): CH1, turn. SC across (62). Putting (SC, CH1, SC) in both corners, continue to SC around the edge of the button flap. Stop when you get here:

Sewing the hat together
Fasten off your yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a yarn needle, sew the ends of the hat together. Utilize the 3rd loop of the edge with the HDCs in order to blend the seam in so it is hardly noticeable. (A note: several of you have mentioned that it looks as though I’m seaming with a bit of an overlap according to the photo below. The photo is an unintentional optical illusion; I actually did seam the edges together with no overlap, and the “overlap” you’re seeing is actually the opposite side of the hat. So sorry for the confusion!)

Once you get to the top of the hat, make a knot and weave in the end.

Cinching the top
Turn your hat inside out. Use your starting tail to cinch the top of the hat by threading it through a yarn needle and weaving the needle in and out along the top edge of the hat at even intervals. Once you’ve gone all the way around, pull the tail tight and insert your yarn needle across the cinched area a few times to really keep it closed, then make a knot and weave in the end. Turn your hat right-side out again.

Finishing the Button Flap
We still need to sew our button flap in place and attach our button. Using a needle and appropriately-colored thread, position the button flap in place and sew along its 3 edges to secure it. Use your needle and thread to attach your button as well.