Category: Crochet Patterns

Striped Oven Mitt
This pattern is part of the Yarn + Chai Spring 2023 Crochet-Along.

I’ve designed several potholders over the years, but never an oven mitt until now. I knew I wanted it to be a double layer of thickness just like my potholders, and with a little brainstorming, I was able to make it happen. I love the result!

The Striped Oven Mitt uses the same techniques as the matching Striped Potholder; but for this project, we’ll also utilize increases and decreases to get the perfect oven mitt shape.

The Striped Oven Mitt is part of a matching set of three cute + modern kitchen accessories, which are all available as part of my Spring 2023 Crochet-Along. I strongly recommend completing each individual project in order (potholder, oven mitt, towel holder), as the techniques involved do build on each other somewhat.

Here is where you’ll be able to find the links for each project:
- Striped Potholder: Click here
- Striped Oven Mitt: You are here!
- Striped Towel Holder: Available Wednesday, May 3 2023
About the Yarn

Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton has definitely become my go-to cotton. It’s affordable and soft, and there are lots of colors available! But there are several other cottons to choose from when crocheting kitchen items. Here are a few other options you could use:
- K + C Essential Cotton (available at Joann Fabrics)
- Lily Sugar ‘n Cream
- Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton
- Yarn Bee Fundamental Cotton (available at Hobby Lobby)
Whatever you pick, make sure it’s a 100% cotton yarn. Other fibers like wool and acrylic will melt if they get too hot… and what a mess that would be!
Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

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Striped Oven Mitt

Difficulty: Easyish

Crochet Language: American Standard

Finished Size: 5.5″ x 10.75″ (inner lining is 5″ x 10.5″)

Yarn: I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton, but you can use your favorite #4 weight kitchen cotton. You’ll need approximately 125 yards of BASE COLOR A for the inner lining (I used “Parchment”), 160 yards of BASE COLOR B for the outer mitt color (I used “Dove”), and 30 yards of STRIPE COLOR (I used “White”). If you wish to make both the inner lining and the outer mitt the same color, simply combine the yarn amounts for BASE COLORS A and B for a total of 285 yards.

Hook: H (5.5mm), or whichever hook size is needed to achieve gauge.

Gauge: 20 CSC x 19 rows = 4″ square

You’ll Also Need: 10″ length of leather or suede craft cord (also called craft lace) for optional hanging loop.

Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
CH (chain)
CSC (crossed single crochet: Insert hook into stitch. Yarn UNDER, pull through; 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops.
CSC INC (CSC increase: 2 CSC in the same ST)
CSC DEC (CSC 2 stitches together: Insert hook into FLO of stitch, then immediately insert hook into FLO of the next ST. Yarn UNDER, pull through front loop of each ST; 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops.)
FLO (front loop only)
JOIN (Join with a SL ST to the top loops of the first ST of the round)

Notes:
(1) Pattern is worked in joined, unturned rounds. CSC stitches worked into FLO stack nice and straight on top of each other, which allows the seam to stay straight and clean. If you have trouble recognizing your first and last stitches, a stitch marker can be very helpful.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rounds do not count as stitches in final stitch counts.
(3) Unless otherwise noted, the first stitch of each round is always worked into the same ST as the CH1.
(4) The slip stitched stripes (worked in white in my sample) are labeled in the pattern as “STRIPE #1”, “STRIPE #2”, etc. They are not a part of the main round count because when we work these stripes after a round of CSC, the top loops of those CSCs remain exposed so that when we move on to the next round of CSC, we are still working into the loops from the previous round of CSC. (This will probably make more sense once you’ve gotten started!)
(5) The pattern is worked in two parts: the inner lining, and the outer mitt. They are joined together at the end with a single round of stitches.
(6) Instructional photos are located below their respective written instructions.

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PART 1: INNER LINING

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To begin: With BASE COLOR A, CH51.

Round 1: CSC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH to end. Join to form a loop, being careful not to twist the round. (50)

Rounds 2-19: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (50)

Round 20: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each of the first 24 STS, CSC INC in FLO of each of the next 2 STS, CSC in FLO of each of the remaining 24 STS. Join. (52)

Rounds 21-22: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (52)

Round 23: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each of the first 25 STS, CSC INC in FLO of each of the next 2 STS, CSC in FLO of each of the remaining 25 STS. Join. (54)

Rounds 24-25: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (54)

Round 26: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each of the first 26 STS, CSC INC in FLO of each of the next 2 STS, CSC in FLO of each of the remaining 26 STS. Join. (56)

Rounds 27-28: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (56)

Round 29: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each of the first 27 STS, CSC INC in FLO of each of the next 2 STS, CSC in FLO of each of the remaining 27 STS. Join. (58)

Rounds 30-31: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (58)

Round 32: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each of the first 28 STS, CSC INC in FLO of each of the next 2 STS, CSC in FLO of each of the remaining 28 STS. Join. (60)

Round 33 (forming the thumb hole): CH 1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each of the first 21 STS, SKIP OVER the next 18 STS, CSC in FLO of each of the remaining 21 STS. Join. (42, with 18 unworked STS)

Rounds 34-45: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (42)

Round 46: CH1 (do not turn). CSC DEC in FLO, CSC in FLO of each of the next 17 STS, CSC DEC in FLO 2 times, CSC in FLO of each of the next 17 STS, CSC DEC in FLO. (38)

Round 47: CH1 (do not turn). CSC DEC in FLO, CSC in FLO of each of the next 15 STS, CSC DEC in FLO 2 times, CSC in FLO of each of the next 15 STS, CSC DEC in FLO. (34)

Round 48: CH1 (do not turn). CSC DEC in FLO 2 times, CSC in FLO of each of the next 9 STS, CSC DEC in FLO 4 times, CSC in FLO of each of the next 9 STS, CSC DEC in FLO 2 times. (26)

Round 49: CH1 (do not turn). CSC DEC in FLO 2 times, CSC in FLO of each of the next 5 STS, CSC DEC in FLO 4 times, CSC in FLO of each of the next 5 STS, CSC DEC in FLO 2 times. (18)

Fasten off, leaving a 12″ tail for later seaming.

THUMB

Lay mitt flat with seam along the right edge and thumb hole on the left. Leaving one stitch empty, rejoin your yarn in the 2nd unworked stitch along the thumb hole.

Thumb, Round 1: CH1. CSC in FLO of each of the first 16 STS. (1 stitch will remain unworked at the end.) Join. (16)

Rounds 2-7: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (16)

Round 8: CSC DEC in FLO around (8 times). Join. (8)

Fasten off, leaving a tail for later seaming.

FINISHING

Turn mitt inside out and lay flat.

Use first finishing tail to whip stitch top of mitt closed (A). Use 2nd (thumb) finishing tail to whip stitch top of thumb closed (B). Use thumb starting tail to stitch together the small hole between the thumb and the rest of the mitt (C). Use starting tail to stitch up the small gap between the first and last STS of the Round 1 (D).

Weave in all ends. Set aside and move on to Part 2: Outer Mitt.

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PART 2: OUTER MITT

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To begin: With BASE COLOR B, CH55.

Round 1: CSC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH to end. Join to the first CSC to form a loop, being careful not to twist the round. (54)

Rounds 2-3: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (54)

Pull up a large loop so that your work doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook.

STRIPE #1: Pull STRIPE COLOR through top loops of first ST of the round. Do not chain; instead, immediately insert hook into next stitch (1st image) and work a SL ST (2nd image). Continue to SL ST in each ST around (3rd image). Fasten off without joining (4th image). (53)

Notice how the top loops from the previous BASE COLOR round are still visible (1st image); that’s where you’ll work the next round as we continue on (2nd image).

Rounds 4-8: With BASE COLOR B, CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (54)

STRIPE #2: Follow instructions from STRIPE #1. (53)

Rounds 9-13: With BASE COLOR B, CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (54)

STRIPE #3: Follow instructions from STRIPE #1. (53)

Rounds 14-18: With BASE COLOR B, CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (54)

STRIPE #4: Follow instructions from STRIPE #1. (53)

Round 19: With BASE COLOR B, CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each of the first 26 STS, CSC INC in FLO x2, CSC in FLO of each of the remaining 26 STS. Join. (56)

Rounds 20-21: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (56)

Round 22: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each of the first 27 STS, CSC INC in FLO x2, CSC in FLO of each of the remaining 27 STS. Join. (58)

Round 23: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (58)

STRIPE #5: Follow instructions from STRIPE #1. (57)

Round 24: With BASE COLOR B, CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (58)

Round 25: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each of the first 28 STS, CSC INC in FLO x2, CSC in FLO of each of the remaining 28 STS. Join. (60)

Rounds 26-27: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (60)

Round 28: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each of the first 29 STS, CSC INC in FLO x2, CSC in FLO of each of the remaining 29 STS. Join. (62)

STRIPE #6: Follow instructions from STRIPE #1. (61)

Rounds 29-30: With BASE COLOR B, CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (62)

Round 31: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each of the first 30 STS, CSC INC in FLO x2, CSC in FLO of each of the remaining 30 STS. Join. (64)

Round 32 (forming the thumb hole): CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each of the first 22 STS, SKIP the next 20 STS, CSC in FLO of each of the remaining 22 STS. Join. (44)

Round 33: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (44)

STRIPE #7: Follow instructions from STRIPE #1. (43)

Rounds 34-38: With BASE COLOR B, CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (44)

STRIPE #8: Follow instructions from STRIPE #1. (43)

Rounds 39-43: With BASE COLOR B, CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (44)

STRIPE #9: Follow instructions from STRIPE #1. (43)

Rounds 44-45: With BASE COLOR B, CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (44)

Round 46: CH1 (do not turn). CSC DEC in FLO, CSC in FLO of each of the next 18 STS, CSC DEC in FLO x2, CSC in FLO of each of the next 18 STS, CSC DEC in FLO. Join. (40)

Round 47: CH1 (do not turn). CSC DEC in FLO, CSC in FLO of each of the next 16 STS, CSC DEC in FLO x2, CSC in FLO of each of the next 16 STS, CSC DEC in FLO. Join. (36)

Round 48: CH1 (do not turn). CSC DEC x2 in FLO, CSC in FLO of each of the next 10 STS, CSC DEC in FLO x4, CSC in FLO of each of the next 10 STS, CSC DEC in FLO x2. Join. (28)

Round 49: CH1 (do not turn). CSC DEC in FLO x2, CSC in FLO of each of the next 6 STS, CSC DEC in FLO x4, CSC in FLO of each of the next 6 STS, CSC DEC in FLO x2. Join. (20)

Fasten off, leaving a 12″ tail for later seaming.

THUMB

Lay mitt flat with seam along the right edge and thumb hole on the left. Rejoin your yarn in the 1st unworked stitch along the thumb hole.

Thumb, Round 1: CH1. CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (20)

Round 2: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (20)

THUMB STRIPE #1: Follow instructions from STRIPE #1. (19)

Rounds 3-7: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (20)

THUMB STRIPE #2: Follow instructions from STRIPE #1. (19)

Round 8: CSC DEC in FLO around (10 times). Join. (10)

Fasten off, leaving a tail for later seaming.

FINISHING THE STRIPES

To finish the stripes and create an almost seamless look, we’ll use our yarn needle to manually create two more “stitches” to close the gap between the first and last slip stitch of each stripe. Here’s how to do it:

(NOTE, the photos below are from the matching Striped Potholder pattern, but the technique is the same.)

1. With seam area visible, notice two locations (holes) as marked on the image. Hole #1 is halfway between the first and last slip stitches of the STRIPE round; Hole #2 is where the top loops of the first slip stitch come together (the bottom of the sideways “V”). Keep these locations in mind.

2. Thread finishing tail through yarn needle, and make a loop. Hold it in place with your thumb.

3. Insert yarn needle down between the two loops of the last SL ST (same place the tail is coming from) …

4. … and up through Hole #1, making sure it travels up through the loop you created.

5. Pull it through; you’ll see our first manually-created stitch form.

6. Repeat the process: Make a loop, insert needle down into the same place the tail is emerging from, and up through Hole #2 this time. Pull through. Image shows what it should look like once you’ve finished both stitches.

7. We need the finishing tail on the inside of our project, so insert yarn needle into the first slip stitch of the round …

8. … and pull it tight.

9. Turn inside out and tie 3 or 4 knots with the yarn tails, then trim the excess yarn. (This will be hidden inside the project, but if you would rather weave in your ends, go ahead.)

Complete this process for all stripes (including thumb).

FINISHING

Use the same process you used on the inner layer to seam mitt openings.

Use first finishing tail to whip stitch top of mitt closed (A). Use 2nd (thumb) finishing tail to whip stitch top of thumb closed (B). Use thumb starting tail to stitch together the small hole between the thumb and the rest of the mitt (C). Use starting tail to stitch up the small gap between the first and last STS of the Round 1 (D).

Weave in any remaining project ends.

JOINING THE TWO PIECES TOGETHER

Turn the INNER LAYER inside out, and insert it into the outer layer. (I found that the easiest way to do this is to wear the inner layer and then put on the outer later over it.) At the seam, insert hook through both layers and join BASE COLOR B; CH1.

We now have two rounds of stitches, with two different stitch counts (54 and 50), to seam together with a final round of CSC. We’ll do this by inserting our hook through one stitch of the outer layer and the corresponding stitch of the inner layer and completing a CSC, joining the layers together.

But what about those extra 4 stitches in the outer layer?

Simple! 4 times (two at each fold), we will complete the usual CSC through both layers, but then we’ll insert our hook into the next stitch of the outer layer and back to the previous (already worked) stitch of the inner layer. That will seam 2 outer layer stitches to a single inner layer stitch, and will take care of those 4 extra stitches in the outer layer.

Here’s a visual, with the pink dots representing the stitches of the outer layer and the gray dots, the inner layer:

The only tricky-ish part is the joins in each layer. Since the inner layer is turned inside out, the joins won’t line up together. The best way to deal with them is to ignore them altogether; so when you come to a join, don’t treat it as a stitch. Just skip over it.

Hint: Don’t get overwhelmed. This section is not about being exact, it’s about seaming the layers together in a way that looks and lays nice. Adjust as necessary for that outcome.

After you’ve seamed both layers together, fasten off and weave in your ends.

ADDING A HANGING LOOP (OPTIONAL)

Cut a 10″ length of leather or suede cord (mine was 1/8″ thick) and use a yarn needle to run it through the potholder near the corner. Tie a knot at the top and trim as necessary.

That’s it!

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your project on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!
April 27, 2023
Striped Potholder
This pattern is part of the Yarn + Chai Spring 2023 Crochet-Along.

It’s that time of year when I’ve fully recovered from the craziness of the fall/winter crochet season, and I’m itching to get back to work on new ideas. And with spring in the air, it’s the perfect time to break out the cotton yarn and make some new kitchen items!

The Striped Potholder is part of a matching set of three cute + modern kitchen accessories, which are all available as part of my Spring 2023 Crochet-Along. Here is where you’ll be able to find the links for each project:
- Striped Potholder: You are here!
- Striped Oven Mitt: Available Friday, April 28 2023
- Striped Towel Holder: Available Wednesday, May 3 2023
About the Yarn

Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton has definitely become my go-to cotton. It’s affordable and soft, and there are lots of colors available! But there are several other cottons to choose from when crocheting kitchen items. Here are a few other options you could use:
- K + C Essential Cotton (available at Joann Fabrics)
- Lily Sugar ‘n Cream
- Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton
- Yarn Bee Fundamental Cotton (available at Hobby Lobby)
Whatever you pick, make sure it’s a 100% cotton yarn. Other fibers like wool and acrylic will melt if they get too hot… and what a mess that would be!

Grab the FREE PDF!

For this pattern only, I’m offering the ad-free PDF version to everyone, absolutely FREE!

Click here to view/download it.

And if you love ad-free PDFs, check out my popular All-Access Pass!

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Striped Potholder

Click here to download the ad-free PDF version of this pattern (for free)!

Difficulty: Easy

Crochet Language: American Standard

Finished Size: 7.25″ x 7.25″ square

Yarn: I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton, but you can use your favorite #4 weight kitchen cotton. You’ll need approximately 135 yards of BASE COLOR (I used “Parchment” and “Dove” in my samples), and 25 yards of STRIPE COLOR (I used “White”).

Hook: H (5.5mm), or whichever hook size is needed to achieve gauge.

Gauge: 20 CSC x 19 rows = 4″ square

You’ll Also Need: 10″ length of leather or suede craft cord (also called craft lace) for optional hanging loop.

Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
CH (chain)
CSC (crossed single crochet: Insert hook into stitch. Yarn UNDER, pull through; 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops.)
FLO (front loop only)
JOIN (Join with a SL ST to the top loops of the first ST of the round)

Notes:
(1) Pattern is worked in joined, unturned rounds. CSC stitches worked into FLO stack nice and straight on top of each other, which allows the seam to stay straight and clean. If you have trouble recognizing your first and last stitches, a stitch marker can be very helpful.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rounds do not count as stitches in final stitch counts.
(3) Unless otherwise noted, the first stitch of each round is always worked into the same ST as the CH1.
(4) The slip stitched stripes (worked in white in my sample) are labeled in the pattern as “STRIPE #1”, “STRIPE #2”, etc. They are not a part of the main round count because when we work these stripes after a round of CSC, the top loops of those CSCs remain exposed so that when we move on to the next round of CSC, we are still working into the loops from the previous round of CSC. (This will probably make more sense once you’ve gotten started!)
(5) Instructional photos are located below their respective written instructions.

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PATTERN

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To begin: With BASE COLOR, CH37.

Round 1: CSC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Working around to the opposite side of the starting chain, CSC in each CH across. You have now worked in both sides of each chain. Join. (72)

Rounds 2-3: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (72)

Pull up a large loop so that your work doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook.

STRIPE #1: Pull STRIPE COLOR through top loops of first ST of the round. Do not chain; instead, immediately insert hook into next stitch (1st image) and work a SL ST (2nd image). Continue to SL ST in each ST around (3rd image). Fasten off without joining (4th image). (71)

Notice how the top loops from the previous BASE COLOR round are still visible (1st image); that’s where you’ll work the next round as we continue on (2nd image).

Rounds 4-8: With BASE COLOR, CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (72)

STRIPE #2: Follow instructions from STRIPE #1.

Rounds 9-13: With BASE COLOR, CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (72)

STRIPE #3: Follow instructions from STRIPE #1.

Rounds 14-18: With BASE COLOR, CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (72)

STRIPE #4: Follow instructions from STRIPE #1.

Rounds 19-23: With BASE COLOR, CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (72)

STRIPE #5: Follow instructions from STRIPE #1.

Rounds 24-28: With BASE COLOR, CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (72)

STRIPE #6: Follow instructions from STRIPE #1.

Rounds 29-32: With BASE COLOR, CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (72)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming the top of the potholder closed (but don’t do it yet). Weave in all other BASE COLOR ends.

Here’s what you should have so far:

FINISHING THE STRIPES

To finish the stripes and create an almost seamless look, we’ll use our yarn needle to manually create two more “stitches” to close the gap between the first and last slip stitch of each stripe. Here’s how to do it:

1. With seam area visible, notice two locations (holes) as marked on the image. Hole #1 is halfway between the first and last slip stitches of the STRIPE round; Hole #2 is where the top loops of the first slip stitch come together (the bottom of the sideways “V”). Keep these locations in mind.

2. Thread finishing tail through yarn needle, and make a loop. Hold it in place with your thumb.

3. Insert yarn needle down between the two loops of the last SL ST (same place the tail is coming from) …

4. … and up through Hole #1, making sure it travels up through the loop you created.

5. Pull it through; you’ll see our first manually-created stitch form.

6. Repeat the process: Make a loop, insert needle down into the same place the tail is emerging from, and up through Hole #2 this time. Pull through. Image shows what it should look like once you’ve finished both stitches.

7. We need the finishing tail on the inside of our project, so insert yarn needle into the first slip stitch of the round …

8. … and pull it tight.

9. Turn inside out and tie 3 or 4 knots with the yarn tails, then trim the excess yarn. (This will be hidden inside the project, but if you would rather weave in your ends, go ahead.)

SEAMING THE POTHOLDER

Once all ends except the finishing tail are taken care of, thread finishing tail through yarn needle and whip stitch the top closed (or use your own chosen seaming method). Here’s how to whip stitch:

Line up the top edges of the potholder. Insert your needle up through the inner loop of the first stitch on one edge. Then insert your needle up through the inner loop of the corresponding stitch on the other edge. Work back and forth between edges, repeating the process until you reach the end.

To finish off, tie a knot. Run your yarn needle into the nearest opening and underneath about half a dozen stitches (going between the two layers of fabric). Pull yarn through, then reinsert yarn needle back into the exit point and repeat. Do this a few times, then cut yarn and pull fabric to make the tip of the yarn disappear completely into the potholder.

ADDING A HANGING LOOP (OPTIONAL)

Cut a 10″ length of leather or suede cord (mine was 1/8″ thick) and use a yarn needle to run it through the potholder near the corner. Tie a knot at the top and trim as necessary.

That’s it!

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your project on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!
April 25, 2023
Coffee Cup Cozy

Cup cozies (also known as to-go hot drink sleeves) are a quick and easy gift for friends, family, teachers, and coworkers. They also make a great addition to craft fair inventory, because they’re fast to make and don’t take much yarn! So here’s a simple, modern pattern to help you create your own.
FITNESS FACTORY – Home modafinil recreational dose health & fitness courses – throughout italy – classifieds lecce

About the Yarn

For my samples, I used Lion Brand’s Lazy Days yarn that I had left over from my Mosaic Pumpkin samples. Lazy Days is a #4 weight, chainette-style acrylic yarn with gorgeous colors and about zero possibility of splitting… I love it. It has some stretch to it as well, so it’s a great option for these cozies.

You can use any #4 weight yarn you want, though, as long as you can meet gauge. You’ll want your cozies to come out the right size, or they’ll be too tight or too loose on the to-go cups.

Speaking of the cups, I found the reusable plastic ones in my sample photos at JoAnn Fabrics… the 2-packs were on sale for a couple bucks! Pair your hand-crocheted cozy with one for a cute gift, or read on for another adorable way to package and present it.

Level Up Your Cozies

Presentation is everything, so I created some cute inserts for these cozies (or any other cozy patterns you love)! You can find the downloadable + printable files for these in my Etsy shop. Just download, print, and cut, and whether you’re giving cozies as gifts or stocking inventory for your craft fair, they’ll look cute and professional wrapped around these inserts.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

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Coffee Cup Cozy

View on Ravelry

Difficulty: Easy

Crochet Language: American Standard

Finished Size: 4.5″ wide x 3″ tall (fits standard plastic reusable travel cups like these from JoAnn Fabrics)

Yarn: About 40 yards of Lion Brand Lazy Days, a #4 medium weight chainette-style polyester yarn. Any #4 weight yarn can be substituted if you can meet gauge.

Hook: 4.0mm (G) hook

Gauge: 18 HHDC x 18 rows = 4″. See Note #2.

Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook — this is similar to a slip stitch motion. Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.)
JOIN (unless otherwise specified, join with a slip stitch to the top of the first stitch of the round.)

Notes:
(1) Pattern is worked in joined, unturned rounds. Your seam will be at a slight diagonal.
(2) Note about gauge: It’s probably easier to just start the pattern and check it against a real to-go coffee cup, than to do a separate gauge swatch. Do the first few rounds of the pattern, then slip it onto the cup; if it settles snug about 1/4-1/3 of the way up the cup, you should be good.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

INSTRUCTIONS

To begin: CH41.

Round 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Join, being careful to not get it twisted.
Stitch count: 40

Round 2: Without chaining, SL ST in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the two loops behind the top loops of the first ST of the round (see image).
Stitch count: 40

^{Round 2}

Round 3: CH1. Staying in the loops behind the previous slip stitch round, SC in each ST around (see image). Join.
Stitch count: 40

^{Round 3}

Rounds 4-5: CH1. HHDC in each ST around. Join.
Stitch count: 40

Round 6: CH1. 2HHDC in first ST, HHDC in each of the next 38 STS, 2HHDC in last ST. Join.
Stitch count: 42

Rounds 7-8: CH1. HHDC in each ST around. Join.
Stitch count: 42

Round 9: CH1. 2HHDC in first ST, HHDC in each of the next 40 STS, 2HHDC in last ST. Join.
Stitch count: 44

Rounds 10-11: CH1. HHDC in each ST around. Join.
Stitch count: 44

Round 12: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join.
Stitch count: 44

Round 13: Without chaining, SL ST in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the two loops behind the top loops of the first ST of the round.
Stitch count: 44

Round 14: CH1. Staying in the loops behind the previous slip stitch round, SC in each ST around. Do not join; fasten off and create an “invisible finish” using the images below.
Stitch count: 44

(Step 1) With yarn needle, bring finishing tail through top loops of first ST of the final round, from back to front. (Step 2) Bring tail through back loop only of the last ST of the final round. (Step 3) Pull gently until tail forms a new set of “top loops”, then weave in end.

To finish: Use yarn needle to sew together the small opening between the first and last stitches of Round 1, then weave in starting tail.

That’s it!

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your project on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!

November 3, 2022
Mosaic Pumpkin
For several Fall seasons, I’ve thought to myself, “I bet a mosaic pumpkin would be really cute.” But I never got around to making one until now, and let me tell you… I was right. IT’S SO CUTE!

If you’ve done any of my other mosaic patterns (like the Mosaic Basket, Mosaic Potholder or Mosaic Bucket Bag), then this pumpkin should be a breeze. If you haven’t, that’s ok too… it’s not as complicated as it looks!
About the Yarn

My mosaic patterns call for one yarn color as a base, and another darker color for the spike stitches. For these pumpkins, I mostly opted for the new Lazy Days yarn from Lion Brand as my base color (it’s an awesome chainette-style yarn that is so easy to work with). I say “mostly” because the light tan pumpkin in my photos was actually made with Yarn Bee Comfy Classic, which is a slightly thicker #4 yarn… so it came out slightly larger than the other size large pumpkin I made. And for the thread color on all of my pumpkins, I used #10 cotton crochet thread.

For reference, here’s a breakdown of the yarn and size of each pumpkin in my photos:

YARN A:
- Purple pumpkin (small): LB Lazy Days in “Woodrose”
- Orange pumpkin (large): LB Lazy Days in “Clay”
- Tan pumpkin (large): Yarn Bee Comfy Classic in “Linen”
- Greenish yellow pumpkin (small): LB Lazy Days in “Lichen”
- Aqua pumpkin (medium): LB Lazy Days in “Surf Spray”
YARN B:
- All pumpkins: Artiste #10 Cotton Crochet Thread in “Chocolate”
Video Help (sort of)

I do not currently have a video tutorial for the mosaic pumpkins. However, if you need a visual on how the spike stitches work to form the mosaic pattern, you might take a look at my video tutorial for the Mosaic Basket! Start at the 19:33 mark for a demonstration on the spike stitch and how to switch between yarns.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Mosaic Pumpkin

View on Ravelry

Difficulty: Easyish

Crochet Language: American Standard

Finished Sizes:
Laid flat, before stuffing: 4″ x 4″ (S), 4.75″ x 4.75″ (M), 5.5″ x 5.5″ (L)
Stuffed and assembled: 3.5″ x 2.25″ (S), 4″ x 2.5″ (M), 4.5″ x 2.75″ (L)

Yarn:

Yarn A: Approximately 50 yards (S), 65 yards (M), or 80 yards (L) of Lion Brand Lazy Days, a #4 weight chainette-style yarn, or other #4 weight yarn.

Yarn B: Approximately 45 yards (S), 60 yards (M), or 75 yards (L) of Artiste #10 Cotton Crochet Thread or other #10 crochet thread. For best results, YARN B should be a darker color than YARN A.

Hook: G (4.0mm)

Gauge: Not crucial, but 18 SC x 22 rows = 4″

You’ll also need:
Yarn needles, regular & extra long (your fingers will thank you!)
Polyester fiber-fill
1″ stick or other chosen material for stem
Fast-acting glue
Twine and other decorations (optional)

Terms and Abbreviations:
MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
SC Spike Stitch (Instead of inserting your hook into the top loops of the stitch, insert them into its base, then complete an SC. This will wrap your SCs over the top of the SCs from the previous round.)

Notes:
(1) Pattern is worked in a seamless round. Do not join, chain and/or turn unless instructed. If needed, use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds.
(2) Pattern is written for the smallest size, with medium and large sizes in parentheses. Any time there is only one number, it applies to all sizes.
(3) Because we utilize the SC Spike Stitch for entire rounds throughout the pattern, we will be referring to those rounds as an extension of the SC rounds they are being worked into. For example, if Round 3 is a round of SC, then the very next round which places spike stitches on top of those SCs will be referred to as Round 3B. This just makes for easier counting.
(4) Yarn, hook size and gauge are only meant as a guide, and this pattern will work with any yarn you choose; just use a hook that is smaller than the yarn’s recommended size for a nice tight fabric, and keep in mind your yarn amounts and finished dimensions will be affected by any changes.
(5) When stuffing your pumpkins, it’s important that you don’t over-stuff. If the rounds start to separate and the stuffing is showing through them, ease up.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

INSTRUCTIONS

To begin: With YARN A, make a magic circle; CH1.

Round 1: 12 (14, 16) SC in MC. (Don’t pull the circle closed yet; we’ll do that later!)
Stitch count: 12 (14, 16)

Round 2: 3SC in each ST around. (It will be crowded; that’s ok.)
Stitch count: 36 (42, 48)

Round 3: SC in each ST around. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook.
Stitch count: 36 (42, 48)

Round 3B: Insert hook into top loops of next ST. Attach YARN B and CH1; SC into same ST, then SC SPIKE STITCH into next ST and each remaining ST around. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook.
Stitch count: 36 (42, 48)

Round 4: Reinsert hook into loop from YARN A. SC in each ST around (you’re working in the top loops of the SC Spike Stitches from the previous round). Remove hook.
Stitch count: 36 (42, 48)

Round 4B: Reinsert hook into loop from YARN B. SC Spike Stitch in each ST around. Remove hook.
Stitch count: 36 (42, 48)

Rounds 5 – 18B (5 – 20B, 5 – 22B): Repeat Rounds 4 – 4B.

Round 19 (21, 23): Reinsert hook into loop from YARN A. SC in each ST around (still working in the top loops of the SC Spike Stitches from the previous round).
Stitch count: 36 (42, 48)

To finish: SL ST in FLO of each of the next 2 STS to smooth down the round, then fasten off, leaving a finishing tail about a yard long. Fasten off YARN B and weave in end. Pull on your YARN A starting tail to cinch the first round of the pumpkin closed, then weave in that tail securely and trim excess. Weave in YARN B starting tail and any other loose ends, not including the long YARN A finishing tail.

Cinching, Stuffing and Closing:
Make sure pumpkin is right-side out. Use yarn needle and finishing tail to weave in and out along the stitches of the final round, weaving every 3 stitches until you’re back where you started (1st photo*). Set yarn needle down and stuff pumpkin (2nd photo), then pull yarn tail to cinch closed (3rd photo). Weave yarn needle across the cinch in a couple different directions to reinforce closure; tie a knot, but do not fasten off.

Shaping:
Using extra long yarn needle and finishing tail, bring the tail down along the outside of the pumpkin, then back through the pumpkin down the center (1st photo). Pull tight to cinch the pumpkin (2nd photo) and hold it in place with your other hand as you move on to the next cinch, continuing the process around the whole pumpkin (3rd photo). I eyeballed where I wanted my cinches, and ended up with 6; but pumpkins come in all different variations, so feel free to play with it to find whatever you think looks best!

When you finish the last cinch, tie a knot and weave in the end, or pull the knot inside the pumpkin to hide it.

Stem
Embellish chosen stem with leaves, twine, covered wire, etc. (optional), then use fast-acting glue to secure to the center of the pumpkin.

That’s it!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern. If you’re sharing your project on social media, be sure to hashtag #mosaicpumpkin and tag me @yarnandchai.design so that I can see your beautiful creations!
October 6, 2022
Country Cottage Pumpkin

“It wouldn’t be fall without a new Yarn + Chai pumpkin pattern!”

That’s what someone commented when I showed a preview of this pattern, and it put such a smile on my face. And she’s right. It wouldn’t!

Pumpkins are such a fun, simple home decor item to crochet. And you can get away with making different styles and throwing them all together… and they’ll still look great! So why not try adding a fuzzy pumpkin (or a dozen) to your home collection or your autumn fair booth?

About the Yarn

For this pattern, I chose Caron Latte Cakes. Despite the fuzziness of this eyelash yarn, Latte Cakes are actually really nice to work with. The yarn glides on the hook without being slippery, and the stitches are visible enough to be easily worked into. And it’s soooooooft.

What makes the Caron Latte Cakes extra fun is the long sections of color contained in the self-striping versions. It makes creating a set of coordinated pumpkins a breeze… we just have to “deconstruct” the cakes to get to the colors we want! (Deconstructing is basically separating a multi-colored skein into its individual colors so that you can access them when needed. You can use a yarn winder, but I found it pretty easy to remove the colors one-by-one starting at the center of the cake.)

And there’s a lot of yarn in one cake… enough for up to 6 of the large sized pumpkins!

Wooden Leaves

My absolute favorite feature of these pumpkins, though, is the wooden leaves, which arrived just in time for my little photo shoot. The moment I saw them online, I knew I had to have them for this year’s pumpkins!

Not surprisingly, these gorgeous leaf tags come from my favorite Etsy shop: All This Wood. (That’s where I get cork and leather tags for my hats and baskets, too!)

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Country Cottage Pumpkin

View on Ravelry

Difficulty: Easy

Crochet Language: American Standard

Finished Sizes:
Laid flat, before stuffing: 4″ x 4″ (S), 4.5″ x 4.5″ (M), 5″ x 5″ (L)
Stuffed and assembled: 3.5″ x 1.75″ (S), 4″ x 2.25″ (M), 4.5″ x 2.75″ (L)

Yarn: Approximately 40 yards (S), 60 yards (M), or 85 yards (L) of Caron Latte Cakes, a #5 weight, self-striping, eyelash-style acrylic/nylon yarn. I used color “Coconut Cream.” You’ll get several pumpkins from one Latte Cake!

Hook: E (3.5mm)

Gauge: Not crucial, but 18SC x 23 rows = 4″ square

You’ll also need:
Yarn needles, regular & extra long (your fingers will thank you!)
Polyester fiber-fill
1″ cinnamon stick or other chosen material for stem
Fast-acting glue
Twine and other decorations (optional)

Terms and Abbreviations:
MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)

Notes:
(1) You’ll need to “deconstruct” your Latte Cake yarn to separate it into its various colors, since one pumpkin will probably require yarn from more than one section of the chosen color. I found it relatively easy to pull out one color at a time (starting from the center of the cake) and cut, but you could also use a yarn winder to wind the entire cake into several yarn balls.
(2) Pattern is worked in a seamless round. Do not join, chain and/or turn unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds.
(3) Pattern is written for the smallest size, with medium and large sizes in parentheses. Any time there is only one number, it applies to all sizes.
(4) Yarn, hook size and gauge are only meant as a guide, and this pattern will work with any yarn you choose; just use a hook that is smaller than the yarn’s recommended size for a nice tight fabric, and keep in mind your yarn amounts and finished dimensions will be affected by any changes.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

INSTRUCTIONS

To begin: Make a magic circle; CH1.

Round 1: 12 (14, 16) SC in MC. (Don’t pull the circle closed yet; we’ll do that later!)
Stitch count: 12 (14, 16)

Round 2: 3SC in each ST around. (It will be crowded; that’s ok.)
Stitch count: 36 (42, 48)

Rounds 3-22 (3-26, 3-30): SC in each ST around.
Stitch count: 36 (42, 48)

To finish: SL ST in FLO of each of the next 2 STS to smooth down the round, then fasten off, leaving a finishing tail about 2 yards long. Pull on your starting tail to cinch the first round of the pumpkin closed, then weave in that tail securely and trim excess.

Cinching, Stuffing and Closing:
Make sure pumpkin is right-side out. Use yarn needle and finishing tail to weave in and out along the stitches of the final round, weaving every 3 stitches until you’re back where you started (1st photo*). Set yarn needle down and stuff pumpkin (2nd photo), then pull yarn tail to cinch closed (3rd photo). Weave yarn needle across the cinch in a couple different directions to reinforce closure; tie a knot, but do not fasten off.

*These photos are actually from the Petite Autumn Pumpkin pattern; the concept is the same, but much easier to see on a pumpkin that isn’t so fuzzy!

Shaping:
Using extra long yarn needle and finishing tail, bring the tail down along the outside of the pumpkin, then back through the pumpkin up the center (1st photo). Pull tight to cinch the pumpkin (2nd photo) and hold it in place with your other hand as you move on to the next cinch, continuing the process around the whole pumpkin (3rd photo). I eyeballed where I wanted my cinches, and ended up with 7; but pumpkins come in all different variations, so feel free to play with it to find whatever you think looks best!

When you finish the last cinch, tie a knot and weave in the end, or pull the knot inside the pumpkin to hide it.

Adding Twine (Optional)
Cut a long length of twine or jute and use a yarn needle to retrace the cinches, the same way you created them in the previous step. Secure and trim or hide excess.

Stem
Embellish chosen stem with leaves, twine, covered wire, etc. (optional), then use fast-acting glue to secure to the center of the pumpkin.

That’s it!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern. If you’re sharing your project on social media, be sure to hashtag #countrycottagepumpkin and tag me @yarnandchai.design so that I can see your beautiful creations!

September 19, 2022
Stars & Stripes Potholder Set
Spring is here, and before we know it, summer will arrive with its holidays, pool parties and barbecues.

These double-thick red, white and blue potholders are the perfect project to get you in the patriotic spirit!

It’s important to use a 100% cotton yarn for items that will come into contact with intense heat, such as a potholder. For the red, white and blue colors, I used my go-to: Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton. For the tan color at the top of the potholders, I turned to one of their newer yarns, Yarn Bee Pima Suprema, which is also a #4 weight and 100% cotton. I love the color “Bone”; It’s a beautiful light tan and exactly what I was looking for. Pima Suprema is a bit softer than I Love This Cotton, but we’re using such a small hook that it wasn’t an issue. Of course, there are tan colors within the I Love This Cotton line… use the one that calls to you!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – –
View on Ravelry

Stars & Stripes Potholder Set

Difficulty: Easy

Crochet Language: American Standard

Finished Size: 7.5″ x 7.5″

Yarn: #4 worsted weight, 100% cotton yarn in 4 colors, in the amounts below:

COLOR A (red): 65 yards. I used I Love This Cotton in “Burnt Sienna”.

COLOR B (white): 65 yards. I used I Love This Cotton in “White”.

COLOR C (tan): 105 yards. I used Yarn Bee Pima Suprema in “Bone”.

COLOR D (blue): 105 yards. I used I Love This Cotton in ‘Dark Denim”.

Hook: 3.5mm (E)

Gauge: 18SC x 23 rows = 4″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)

Notes:
(1) Pattern is worked in joined, turned rounds. When instructed to “join”, always join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC of the round.
(2) For the striped potholder, you can carry your colors up the inside of the potholder so that there are fewer ends to weave in.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
STRIPES POTHOLDER

To begin: With COLOR A, CH34.

Round 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Working around to the opposite side of the starting chain, SC in each CH across. You have now worked in both sides of each chain. Join. (68)

Rounds 2-4: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join. (68)

Switch to COLOR B.

Rounds 5-8: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join. (68)

Switch to COLOR A.

Rounds 9-12: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join. (68)

Switch to COLOR B.

Rounds 13-16: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join. (68)

Switch to COLOR A.

Rounds 17-20: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join. (68)

Switch to COLOR B.

Rounds 21-24: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join. (68)

Switch to COLOR A.
(You can fasten off COLOR B.)

Rounds 25-28: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join. (68)

Switch to COLOR C.
(You can fasten off COLOR A.)

Rounds 29-40: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join. (68)

Round 41: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, CH20, SC into next ST to form a loop (first image). SC in each remaining ST around (second image). Join. (68 + CH20)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for closing the top of the potholder. Weave in all other ends.

SEAMING

Holding the potholder and making sure the top stitches are lined up so that the seam on the side is straight up-and-down, use the finishing tail and a yarn needle to sew the potholder closed. Secure with a knot, then run tail down into the potholder using the yarn needle; pull the knot so that it disappears into the inside of the potholder. Trim end so that it also disappears into the inside of the potholder.

STARS POTHOLDER

To begin: With COLOR D, CH34.

Round 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Working around to the opposite side of the starting chain, SC in each CH across. You have now worked in both sides of each chain. Join. (68)

Rounds 2-28: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join. (68)

Switch to COLOR C.
(You can fasten off COLOR D.)

Rounds 29-40: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join. (68)

Round 41: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, CH20, SL ST into next ST to form a loop. SC in each remaining ST around. Join. (68 + CH20)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for closing the top of the potholder. Weave in all other ends.

EMBROIDERING THE STARS

Using COLOR B (white), a yarn needle, and the chart below, embroider your stars onto both sides of the potholder by cutting a long length of yarn (however long you are comfortable with; you can just start with a new length of yarn when you run out) and following the pattern on the chart.

A few tips:

Each star is 6 rows tall and 6 stitches wide. There are 8 stitches between the top points of stars that are next to each other, and two empty rows between each row of stars.

If you look closely on my sample potholder (the finished one, not this chart), you’ll see that my first star (the top left) starts one stitch to the left from what the chart shows; I shifted everything over one stitch when creating this chart for you because it evens out the spacing around the outer edges of the blue section. I just didn’t want to rip out all of my stars, so I called it good enough. Follow the chart, and don’t be confused if you notice this slight difference in my photos. 🙂

Try to be consistent when pulling each strand through; too tight, and your flat potholder will start to warp, but too loose, and they’ll start to look sloppy.

Don’t forget to secure the start and end of each strand of white yarn! You can weave in the ends or tie knots and leave them loose inside the potholder, as long as they’re secure.

SEAMING

Holding the potholder and making sure the top stitches are lined up so that the seam on the side is straight up-and-down, use the finishing tail and a yarn needle to sew the potholder closed. Secure with a knot, then run tail down into the potholder using the yarn needle; pull the knot so that it disappears into the inside of the potholder. Trim end so that it also disappears into the inside of the potholder.
That’s it!

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your project on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!
May 13, 2022
Easter Bunny Treat Bag

I feel like Christmas was… a week ago? Yet here we are, getting ready for Easter!

When I made the St. Patrick’s Day Treat Bags (inspired by the Potpourri Pouches), I decided these little crocheted pouches could be redone to accommodate pretty much any holiday. They are perfect for little surprises for the kids or grandkids, students, Sunday school kids, and more. It doesn’t hurt that they can be made quickly and easily.

So here’s my Easter version… solid-colored bag, a simple bunny silhouette (included), and a little puffy tail to finish it off!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Easter Bunny Treat Bag

View on Ravelry

Difficulty: Easy

Crochet Language: American Standard

Finished Size: 4″ wide x 5.5″ tall

Yarn: Approximately 70 yards of a #4 weight yarn. My samples were made with Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton in White, Turquoise, and Pink.

Hook: 4.5mm

Gauge: 20CSC x 22 rows = 4″ square

You’ll also need: Thin ribbon or cord, sheet of craft foam or felt, small white craft pom (for bunny tail), super glue or glue gun, cord stop (optional)

Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
CH (chain)
CSC (crossed single crochet: Insert hook into stitch. Yarn UNDER, pull through; 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in a seamless spiral. Do not join, chain or turn unless instructed.
(2) To change the width, add or subtract any number from the starting chain. To change the height, add or subtract any number of rounds.
(3) I used the CSC (crossed single crochet) stitch throughout because I like the look of it, but a regular SC will work fine as well.
(4) The downloadable bunny silhouette is 1.5″ in width. Check to make sure your program or device has not resized it before printing.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

INSTRUCTIONS

To begin: CH21.

Round 1: CSC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Working around to the opposite side of the starting chain, CSC in each CH across. You have now worked in both sides of each chain. (40)

Rounds 2-29: CSC in each ST around. (40)

Round 30: SL ST in each ST around. (40)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

ADDING THE BUNNY

Use this template to cut out a 1.5″ wide bunny silhouette from craft foam or your material of choice. (I used my Cricut machine to cut mine, but you can also just print the bunny, cut it out and use it as a stencil!)

(click bunny to download)

Glue the bunny to the treat bag, about 3 rows from the bottom, centered. Add the small pom for the bunny’s tail.

DRAWSTRING CLOSURE

Using a yarn needle, locate the top center of the bag and count 2 STS to the right; run cord through from the outside going in, just underneath the final round. Weave in and out every 4 STS all around the top of the bag; cord should finish on the outside, 4 STS away from where it first went in.

Thread both ends through a cord stop if desired (I didn’t, but will probably go back and add one for better closure), then secure with a knot. Trim as needed.

That’s it!

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your project on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!

April 6, 2022
St. Patrick’s Day Treat Bag
Top o’ the morning’ to ya!

With St. Patrick’s Day around the corner, I wanted to come up with a festive pattern to share with you that could double as a fun surprise for my boys. While I was making the pattern for the Potpourri Pouch, I thought of how cute it would be as a treat bag, too!

I used cotton yarn to work up these leprechaun-inspired bags, and finished them off with a drawstring closure and a gold-colored buckle made of 99 cent craft foam that I found at Hobby Lobby. They were so quick and inexpensive to create that I’m tempted to make a dozen more and send them in to my youngest’s preschool class for their St. Patrick’s Day party!

I found lots of options for the “treasure” inside. There are several chocolates that come in gold-colored wrappers (Hershey’s Nuggets with Almonds and Rolos are my favorites). Looking for more of a rainbow theme? Use Skittles or Airhead Extremes. Not keen on a pouch full of sugar? There was a day when my kids were young enough that a pouch full of plastic golden coins would have thrilled them! (The coins in the photo above are from Hobby Lobby’s St. Patrick’s Day supplies.)

Do you have a different idea? Leave it in the comments!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – –
St. Patrick’s Day Treat Bag

View on Ravelry

Difficulty: Easy

Crochet Language: American Standard

Finished Size: 4″ wide x 5.5″ tall

Yarn: You’ll need a #4 weight yarn in 2 colors:

COLOR A: 60 yards (I used I Love This Cotton in “Bright Green”)

COLOR B: 12 yards (I used I Love This Cotton in “Black”)

Hook: 4.5mm

Gauge: 20CSC x 22 rows = 4″ square

You’ll also need: Black string or cord, small cord stop, sheet of gold-colored foam or felt, fabric glue (or glue gun), beads

Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
CH (chain)
CSC (crossed single crochet: Insert hook into stitch. Yarn UNDER, pull through; 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops.)

Notes:
(1) Pattern is worked in a seamless spiral. Do not join, chain or turn unless instructed.
(2) To change the width, add or subtract any number from the starting chain. To change the height, add or subtract any number of rounds.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

INSTRUCTIONS

To begin: With COLOR A, CH21.

Round 1: CSC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Working around to the opposite side of the starting chain, CSC in each CH across. (You have now worked in both sides of each chain.)
Stitch count: 40

Rounds 2-6: CSC in each ST around.
Stitch count: 40

Switch to COLOR B. (Drop COLOR A, but do not fasten off.)

Rounds 7-10: CSC in each ST around.
Stitch count: 40

Switch back to COLOR A. (You can drop and fasten off COLOR B.)

Rounds 11-29: CSC in each ST around.
Stitch count: 40

Round 30: SL ST in each ST around.
Stitch count: 40

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Finishing it up

Using a yarn needle, locate the top center of the bag and count 2 STS to the right; run cord through from the outside going in, just underneath the final round. Weave in and out every 4 STS all around the top of the bag; cord should finish on the outside, 4 STS away from where it first went in.

Thread both ends through a cord stop, then add a couple of small beads to each end and secure with a knot. Trim as needed.

For the buckle, cut a small rectangle (slightly taller than the black stripe on the bag) from a sheet of gold-colored foam or felt. Cut a smaller rectangle out of the center and glue the larger piece to your bag with fabric glue (or a glue gun).

That’s it!

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your project on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!
February 25, 2022
Potpourri Pouch
Potpourri pouches or sachets are a simple, natural way to freshen up small spaces, such as drawers of sweaters, linens, or socks. Filled with dried potpourri mixed with a few drops of fragrant oil, these hand-crocheted pouches release fragrance slowly over time to keep things smelling nice. They work up quickly and would make a cute, thoughtful gift for teachers, co-workers, family or friends. I’ve included a mini size as well which would make an adorable wedding favor for a country- or rustic-themed reception!

I wasn’t sure whether a tightly stitched pouch would release enough fragrance, so I tested mine out by putting it in one of the sections of the cube shelf that holds my yarn. The next day I checked, and sure enough, the nearby yarn had a pleasant, subtle aroma. Perfect!

And did you know that you can make scented pouches without the potpourri? A less expensive alternative is dried rice mixed with essential oil… which would be perfect for the mini sized pouch, as even small potpourri may be hard to stuff much inside.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Potpourri Pouch

View on Ravelry

Difficulty: Easy

Crochet Language: American Standard

Finished Sizes: 4″ wide x 5.5″ tall (regular) and 2″ wide x 3.25″ tall (mini)

Yarn: You’ll need a #4 weight cotton yarn in 3 colors. For COLOR A and COLOR B, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton, and for COLOR C, I used Yarn Bee Pima Suprema (also an HL brand). Both yarns are 100% cotton.

For the regular size:

COLOR A: 15 yards (I used I Love This Cotton in “Burnt Sienna”)

COLOR B: 3 yards (I used I Love This Cotton in “White”)

COLOR C: 55 yards (I used Yarn Bee Pima Suprema in “Bone”)

For the mini size:

COLOR A: 8 yards (I used I Love This Cotton in “Rosy”)

COLOR B: 2 yards (I used I Love This Cotton in “White”)

COLOR C: 20 yards (I used Yarn Bee Pima Suprema in “Bone”)

Hook: 4.5mm

Gauge: 20CSC x 22 rows = 4″ square

You’ll also need: Jute twine, button, filler (either potpourri or uncooked rice), fragrant or essential oil

Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
CH (chain)
CSC (crossed single crochet: Insert hook into stitch. Yarn UNDER, pull through; 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops.)

Notes:
(1) Pattern is worked in a seamless spiral. Do not join, chain or turn unless instructed.
(2) Pattern is written for the regular pouch size, with instructions for the mini version in parentheses. When there is only one instruction, it applies to both sizes.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
INSTRUCTIONS

To begin: With COLOR A, CH21 (CH11).

Round 1: CSC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Working around to the opposite side of the starting chain, CSC in each CH across. (You have now worked in both sides of each chain.)
Stitch count: 40 (20)

Rounds 2-6 (Rounds 2-4): CSC in each ST around.
Stitch count: 40 (20)

Switch to COLOR B.

Round 7 (Round 5): CSC in each ST around.
Stitch count: 40 (20)

Switch to COLOR C.

Rounds 8-29 (Rounds 6-17): CSC in each ST around.
Stitch count: 40 (20)

Round 30 (Round 18): SL ST in each ST around.
Stitch count: 40 (20)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Finishing it up

Fill a small bowl with potpourri or uncooked rice and add a few drops of essential oil; mix. Add to pouch.

Using a yarn needle, locate the top center of the sachet and count 2 STS to the right; run twine through from the outside going in. Weave in and out every 4 STS all around the top of the bag; twine should finish on the outside, 4 STS away from where it first went in.

Tie the two strands together, cinching the bag closed.

Thread one strand through the button and finish it with a bow.
That’s it!

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your project on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!
February 2, 2022
Maisy’s Holiday Dog Scarf

Oh boy, have I got something cute for you.

I was on Amazon the other day when I came across some adorable knit scarves for dogs. I thought to myself, I could totally crochet something like that. So I did!

So for Day #12 of my 12 Days of Christmas, we’re concluding the fun with a cute pattern for our furry friends. Modeled by my Maisy girl, of course!

(Disclaimer: It should go without saying, but your pup should only wear this when supervised. It’s great for a winter walk, holiday photos, or Christmas Day with the family, but don’t leave it on if they’re heading outside or will be home alone. Safety before cuteness!)

Maisy is modeling the large breed size… I made a small breed size for Simba, but he was not thrilled about it. I know it looks like he’s posing here, but in reality my snuggly tabby was just flat out refusing to look at me. But he looks so cute!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

Maisy’s Holiday Dog Scarf

View on Ravelry

Language: American Standard

Difficulty: Beginner / Easy

Finished Sizes:

Length before seaming Length after seaming Width
SMALL Breed 18″ 15″ 2″
MEDIUM Breed 24″ 20″ 3″
LARGE Breed 28″ 24″ 4″

Hook: J (6.0mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

Yarn: I used Yarn Bee Comfy Classic in “Red”. I chose this viscose/polyester/nylon #4 weight yarn because it’s stretchy, so it’s easy to slip over my dog’s head. But really, you can use any yarn you want! Even if you choose thicker or thinner yarn and an appropriate hook size, you can simply follow the measurements of the pattern as a guide.

You’ll Also Need: A faux fur or yarn pom, appropriately sized for the animal that will be wearing it. I recommend 2-3″ for a small breed, and 4″ for a medium or large breed.

Gauge: 13 HDC x 12 rows = 4″ square

Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
CH (chain)
HDC (half double crochet)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:
(1) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(2) To change the length of the scarf, add to or subtract any number from your starting chain. To change the width, add to or subtract from the total number of rows. There is no stitch multiple.
(3) Instructions are written for a small breed dog, with counts for medium breed and large breed in parentheses.

INSTRUCTIONS

To begin: CH59 (79, 91).

Row 1: HDC in 2^nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH.
Stitch count: 58 (78, 90)

Rows 2-6 (2-9, 2-12): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST, HDC in BLO across until 1 ST remains, HDC in final ST.
Stitch count: 58 (78, 90)

Fasten off, leaving a tail for attaching pom.

Attaching Pom

Using finishing tail and a yarn needle, weave yarn needle down the short edge of the scarf and pull tight to cinch it together.

Run needle through pom (use the elastic loop if using a store-bought pom) and then back through the cinched edge of the scarf, through the pom again, and through the cinched edge one more time. When pom feels secure, tie a knot and weave in the tail.

Seaming the Other End

Fold the other end onto itself, forming a loop at the end of the scarf that is just a bit smaller than the pom you chose. With yarn needle, sew the edge down to attach it to the bottom layer of the scarf.

Weave in any remaining yarn tails.

Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see your beautiful work (and your adorable pups)!

December 11, 2021