Category: Crochet Patterns

  • Malia Christmas Stocking

    Malia Christmas Stocking

    Every year around this time, when we dig out the boxes full of Christmas decorations, I say to myself “this year we are all going to have matching stockings!”

    I think in the younger years of a family, Christmas stockings tend to be random and mismatched because each new addition to the family comes on a different year. I brought my stocking with me when I moved from my family’s house into the one I shared with my new husband, and I think we bought him one that year. When Sam was born, we bought one for him, and two years later, one for Isaiah, too. Of course, none of them matched!

    There’s nothing wrong with that, and each one holds special memories. But. The older I get, the more I love the idea of looking at the mantle and seeing 5 coordinating stockings. What can I say? Life is chaos, and a little order makes my anxious heart happy. (Can you tell I’m a mom of all boys!?)

    If I’m being honest, this year probably won’t be the year we achieve my dream of matching stockings, because it’s already December 5th (what!?) and I’ve only made one. But I am SO going be ready for next year thanks to this new pattern – the Malia Christmas Stocking!

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    If you’ve been following along with the Malia pattern collection, this pattern won’t give you much trouble, if any. But if you need a little extra help with any of the stitches in the pattern, I created a video tutorial for previous Malia patterns in which I crocheted up a swatch of the stitch pattern. You might find it useful to scan through the tutorial if you find yourself stuck at any point!

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    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA CHRISTMAS STOCKING

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Finished Sizes: 16.5″ tall (folded) or 20.5″ tall (unfolded) x 9″ wide

    Hook: I (5.0 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: 275 yards of COLOR A (yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Red Roads”) and 95 yards of COLOR B (yarn used in sample photos is Bernat Baby Blanket Tiny in “Snow Cap”). Both yarns are #4 medium weight.

    Gauge: To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook. Please note that I have a tight tension, so it is entirely possible that you will need a smaller hook.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    CH17.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 3 decorative buttons, needle & thread, 11″ long coordinating ribbon (I used 1.5″ thick burlap)

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    SC2TOG (single crochet two together)
    HDC2TOG (half double crochet two together)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:

    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) A video tutorial for a swatch of the stitch pattern is available up in the post, or by clicking here.

    INSTRUCTIONS – SIDE 1

    To begin: CH39.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (38)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 18 times. 2SC in final ST. (39)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (39)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each of the first 38 STS. 2SC in 3rd loop of final ST. (40)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (40)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 19 times. 2SC in final ST. (41)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (41)

    Row 8: Ch1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each of the first 40 STS. 2SC in 3rd loop of final ST. (42)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (42)

    Row 10: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 20 times. 2SC in final ST. (43)

    Row 11: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (43)

    Row 12: Ch1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each of the first 42 STS. 2SC in 3rd loop of final ST. (44)

    Row 13: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (44)

    Row 14: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 21 times. 2SC in final ST. (45)

    Row 15: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (45)

    Row 16: Ch1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each of the first 44 STS. 2SC in 3rd loop of final ST. (46)

    Row 17: Ch1, turn. SC in each ST across. (46)

    Row 18: Ch1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 22 times. 2SC in final ST. (47)

    Row 19: Ch1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (47)

    Row 20: Ch1, turn.  SC in 3rd loop of each of the first 46 STS. 2SC in 3rd loop of final ST. (48)

    Row 21: Ch1, turn.  SC in each ST across. (48)

    Row 22: Ch1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 23 times. 2SC in final ST. (49)

    Row 23: Ch1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (49)

    Row 24: Ch1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each of the first 48 STS. 2SC in 3rd loop of final ST. (50)

    Row 25: Ch1, turn. SC in each of the first 22 STS. SC2TOG. Leave the rest unworked. (23)

    Row 26: Ch1, turn. SC2TOG. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 10 times. SC in final ST. (22)

    Row 27: Ch1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (22)

    Row 28: Ch1, turn. In 3rd loops of first 2 STS, SC2TOG. SC in 3rd loops of each remaining ST across. (21)

    Row 29: Ch1, turn. SC in each of the first 19 STS. SC2TOG. (20)

    Row 30: Ch1, turn. SC2TOG. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 8 times. SC2TOG. (18)

    Row 31: Ch1, turn. HDC2TOG. HDC in each of the next 14 STS. HDC2TOG. (16)

    Row 32: Ch1, turn. In 3rd loops of first 2 STS, SC2TOG. SC in 3rd loops of each of the next 12 STS. In 3rd loops of final 2 STS, SC2TOG. (14)

    Row 33: Ch1, turn. SC2TOG. SC in next ST. HDC in each of the next 2 STS. DC in each of the next 4 STS. HDC in each of the next 2 STS. SC in next ST. SC2TOG. (12)

    Edging: CH1; SC evenly around the entire piece, putting one SC in each ST or row end as applicable, and using the image below to place 2SC or 3SC where indicated (this will help keep your stocking from curling). Fasten off and weave in ends.

    INSTRUCTIONS – SIDE 2

    To begin: CH39.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (38)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 18 times. SC in final ST. (39)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (39)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. 2SC in 3rd loop of first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the remaining 38 STS. (40)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (40)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 19 times. SC in final ST. (41)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (41)

    Row 8: Ch1, turn. 2SC in 3rd loop of first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the remaining 40 STS. (42)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (42)

    Row 10: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 20 times. SC in final ST. (43)

    Row 11: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (43)

    Row 12: Ch1, turn. 2SC in 3rd loop of first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the remaining 42 STS. (44)

    Row 13: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (44)

    Row 14: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 21 times. SC in final ST. (45)

    Row 15: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (45)

    Row 16: Ch1, turn. 2SC in 3rd loop of first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the remaining 44 STS. (46)

    Row 17: Ch1, turn. SC in each ST across. (46)

    Row 18: Ch1, turn. 2SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 22 times. SC in final ST. (47)

    Row 19: Ch1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (47)

    Row 20: Ch1, turn. 2SC in 3rd loop of first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the remaining 46 STS. (48)

    Row 21: Ch1, turn.  SC in each ST across. (48)

    Row 22: Ch1, turn. 2SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 23 times. SC in final ST. (49)

    Row 23: Ch1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (49)

    Row 24: Ch1, turn. 2SC in 3rd loop of first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the remaining 48 STS. (50)

    Fasten off.

    Row 25: Turn the work like you normally would to start a new row. Skip the first 26 STS, and reattach yarn in the next (27th) ST, then CH1. Beginning in same ST, SC2TOG. SC in each of the remaining 22 STS. (23)

    Row 26: Ch1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 10 times. SC2TOG. (22)

    Row 27: Ch1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (22)

    Row 28: Ch1, turn. SC in 3rd loops of the first 20 STS. In 3rd loops of final 2 STS, SC2TOG. (21)

    Row 29: Ch1, turn. SC2TOG. SC in each of the remaining 19 STS. (20)

    Row 30: Ch1, turn. SC2TOG. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 8 times. SC2TOG. (18)

    Row 31: Ch1, turn. HDC2TOG. HDC in each of the next 14 STS. HDC2TOG. (16)

    Row 32: Ch1, turn. In 3rd loops of first 2 STS, SC2TOG. SC in 3rd loops of each of the next 12 STS. In 3rd loops of final 2 STS, SC2TOG. (14)

    Row 33: Ch1, turn. SC2TOG. SC in next ST. HDC in each of the next 2 STS. DC in each of the next 4 STS. HDC in each of the next 2 STS. SC in next ST. SC2TOG. (12)

    Edging: CH1; SC evenly around the entire piece, putting one SC in each ST or row end as applicable, and using the image below to place 2SC or 3SC where indicated (this will help keep your stocking from curling). Fasten off and weave in ends.

    SEAMING

    Put stocking sides together, right sides facing out, and attach yarn in the top left corner through both layers; CH1. SL ST evenly around the left, bottom, and right edges of the stocking, going through all 4 loops (both layers) of each stitch, putting one SL ST in each ST or row end as applicable, and 2 SL STS wherever needed to keep stocking from curling. (You can use Side 1’s placement as a guide.) I find it difficult to SL ST twice in one stitch, so for the 2nd SL ST, I skip over the loop closest to me and work it through the remaining 3 loops. Once you reach the top right corner, CH1 and SC evenly (1 SC in each row end) around the top of the stocking, one layer at a time (don’t crochet it closed, or Santa won’t be able to fill it!), going all the way around the top until you come back to where you started; SL ST to the top of the first SC. (You should have 48 SC.)

    TOP RIBBING SECTION
    If you need some extra guidance, a video tutorial for how to add ribbing to crochet projects can be found here.)

    Attach new color (if you are switching); fasten off previous color.

    Base Round: CH1, SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (48)

    Row 1: CH33. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 31 chains. SL ST into the first SC from the Base Round, the stitch on which your CH33 was built. SL ST into the next SC from the Base Round. (32, plus the two slip stitches along the Base Round)

    The section we just created, built on the CH33, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in the Base Round, SC in BLO of each of the first 31 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (32)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 31 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of the Base Round. (32, plus the two slip stitches along the Base Round)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in the Base Round, SC in BLO of each of the first 31 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (32)

    Rows 5-48: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way around the Base Round.

    Row 49: CH1, do not turn. SC along the top of the ribbing, putting 1SC in each row end (48). Fasten off, leaving a long tail, and use it to sew the first and last ribbing rows together. Weave in all ends.

    BUTTONS

    Fold ribbing down over itself until it extends about an inch lower than its bottom edge. Place buttons where indicated and sew them on, working through the front double layers of ribbing to help hold everything in the correct place.

    RIBBON

    Tuck ribbon ends into the stocking on the left side, about an inch below the top edge, and sew them to the inside, 1 against each side of the stocking. (I should note here that I am not a seamstress by any stretch of the imagination, and those of you who are may be cringing at what I did to attach the ribbon… so, if you have any kind words of wisdom, please feel free to put them in the comments below!)

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliachristmasstocking and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Malia Boot Cuffs

    Malia Boot Cuffs

     This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection, please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

    Boot cuffs are such an understated way to add a finishing touch to a cozy indoor or outdoor outfit. And they’re so quick to work up, you’ll want to make a pair in several colors!

    –

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    If you need a little extra help with any of the stitches in the pattern, I created a video tutorial for previous Malia patterns in which I crocheted up a swatch of the stitch pattern. You might find it useful to scan through the tutorial if you find yourself stuck at any point!

    Free Printable Tags

    I made some cute printable labels for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting these boot cuffs, a label just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. Print on cardstock for best results!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA BOOT CUFFS

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Sizes: 5″ tall x 12″ around (see notes for adjustment instructions)

    Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: 160 yards (total for a pair of boot cuffs) of #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Sugared Oats”.

    Gauge: To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    CH17.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 2 decorative buttons

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:

    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) A video tutorial for the stitch pattern is available up in the post, or by clicking here.
    (4) To make boot cuffs taller, simply adjust your starting chain, being sure to begin with an odd number of chains, and add the extra height to the section between the two ribbings. To make boot cuffs larger around, continue the repeats section until they are the width you prefer, being sure to end on a row of HDC for best seaming results.

    INSTRUCTIONS (MAKE 2)

    To begin: CH21.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (20)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 6 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

    Row 4: Ch1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 6 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

    Row 8: Ch1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

    Row 10: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

    Row 11: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 6 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

    Row 12: Ch1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

    Row 13: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

    Row 14: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

    Row 15: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 6 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

    Row 16: Ch1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

    Rows 17-48: Repeat Rows 9-16, in order, 4 times. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

    Seaming
    Bring short edges together, wrong side facing out. Seam the edges together, starting with the first 4 stitches of ribbing, then the body of the cuffs (using your yarn needle to go under the 3rd loop of the HDC row and across to the corresponding stitch on the other side), then finishing with the last 4 stitches of ribbing. This will create a row of raised top loops along your seam, ensuring that it will blend in with the rest of the similar rows. (This technique is demonstrated on the video tutorial for the Malia Beanie + Slouch at the 42:00 mark.)  Fasten off and weave in both ends.

    Buttons (optional)
    Attach a decorative button to the top ribbing of each cuff.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliabootcuffs and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Malia Wrist Warmers

    Malia Wrist Warmers

     This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection, please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

    Wrist warmers (or wristers, or fingerless gloves, or fingerless mitts) are a great way to keep your hands warm without taking away your ability to function (a.k.a. check your smartphone)! They’re also a great accessory to keep in your car, ready for those cold mornings on the road. I made my samples two-toned, but of course, you can crochet yours up in one solid color. Add a couple of decorative buttons to complete the look.

    –

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    If you need a little extra help with any of the stitches in the pattern, I created a video tutorial for previous Malia patterns in which I crocheted up a swatch of the pattern. You might find it useful to scan through the tutorial if you find yourself stuck at any point!

    Free Printable Tags

    I made some cute printable labels for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting these wrist warmers, a label just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. Print on cardstock for best results!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA WRIST WARMERS

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Finished Sizes: 3.5″ wide x 7″ tall

    Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge, as well as one size smaller (in my case, an H (5mm))

    Yarn: 120 yards (total for a pair of wrist warmers) of #4 aran weight. If you choose to do your wrist warmers two-toned like I did, you’ll need about 80 yards of COLOR A for the main part of the design, and 40 yards of COLOR B for the ribbing. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Red Roads” and “Sugared Oats”.

    Gauge: The gauge for all Malia patterns is a 16 stitch x 16 row swatch, but because this particular pattern is also based on 16 stitches, it makes more sense to simply start following the pattern. So, to make sure your gauge is on the right track, after you’ve finished the first 8 rows, measure them; they should measure 2″. (The height should be about 4″.) Adjust your hook accordingly and begin again if necessary.

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 4 small buttons

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:

    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) A video tutorial for the stitch pattern is available up in the post, or by clicking here.

    INSTRUCTIONS (MAKE 2)

    To begin: With COLOR A and larger hook, CH17.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)

    Row 2: Ch1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)

    Row 4: Ch1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)

    Row 5 (thumb hole): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 3 STS. Ch7; SK 7 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 4 STS. SC in final ST. (7 + CH7)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 5 STS. SC in each of the 7 CHs. SC in each of the remaining 4 STS. (16)

    Row 7: Ch1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)

    Row 10: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)

    Row 11: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)

    Row 12: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)

    Row 13: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)

    Row 14: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)

    Row 15: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)

    Row 16: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)

    Rows 17-24: Repeat Rows 9-16.

    At this point, you should put your thumb in the thumb hole and make sure that the fabric can stretch around your palm. It should be snug. If it is too small, repeat Rows 9-12 to add another inch of width.

    Row 25: CH1, do NOT turn. SC in same ST again to round corner. Continue to SC across the top edge of the wrist warmer, putting 3SC in each 4-row section. (I visualize each “section” as being the area between each 3rd loop row, so I put an SC directly to the left of the 3rd loop row, one on the bean stitch row, and one directly to the right of the next 3rd loop row, then repeat that sequence all the way across.) Bring the sides together (right side out) and join to the top of the 1st SC with a SL ST. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

    Seaming the Main Section
    Turn inside out. Seam the edges together, using your yarn needle to go under the 3rd loop of the HDC row and across to the corresponding stitch on the other side. This will create a row of raised top loops along your seam, ensuring that it will blend in with the rest of the similar rows. (This technique is demonstrated on the video tutorial for the Malia Beanie + Slouch at the 42:00 mark.)  Fasten off and weave in both ends.

    Main Section, Bottom Edging
    Turn right-side out. Turn upside down and reattach COLOR A at the bottom, lined up with the thumb hole, and CH1. SC in each row around. (Notice we aren’t doing 3SC in each 4-row section like we did before; this time, each row gets its own SC.) You should end up with 24SC (4 per section), but one more or less won’t make much of a difference. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC.

    Change to COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A.

    CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. In the following instructions, this round will be referred to as the “Base Round”.

    Ribbing Section
    (Note: If you need extra help on this part, please watch this video tutorial on how to add ribbing to the bottom of a crochet project.)

    Switch to smaller hook. CH11.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 9 chains. SL ST into the first SC from the Base Round, the stitch on which your CH11 was built. SL ST into the next SC from the Base Round. (10, plus the two slip stitches along the Base Round)

    The section we just created, built on the CH11, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in the Base Round, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 9 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 empty STS of the Base Round. (10, plus the 2 SL STS along the Base Round)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in the Base Round, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)

    Rows 5-24: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along the Base Round.

    Fasten off and use your tail to sew together the first and last rows of the ribbing, then weave in your ends.

    Thumb Edging
    Reattach COLOR A somewhere on the edge of the thumb hole; CH1. SC evenly around the opening. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. Fasten off and weave in ends.

    Buttons
    Using your yarn needle and COLOR B, or a needle and thread, attach two small buttons to the ribbing toward the outer edge of each wrist warmer.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliawristwarmers and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Malia Earwarmer

    Malia Earwarmer

     This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection (including a beanie, slouch, cowl and infinity scarf), please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

    When you want to wear your hair up, but you still want to keep your ears warm, it’s time to grab an earwarmer! This quick pattern is one of the simplest of the Malia collection and you’ll be able to crochet it up in no time.

    If you need a little help with the stitches, check out the tutorial video I made for the cowl and scarf; just use the numbers in this pattern instead of the ones called for on the video! Or, scroll down to find the written pattern.

    Free Printable Tags

    I made some cute printable tags for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting this earwarmer, a tag or wrap just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. I included a wraparound label (shown in the photo) as well as a smaller tag that can be attached to a piece of decorative string wrapped around your finished product, by punching a hole through the corner and threading the string through before tying a bow to secure. Print on cardstock for best results!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA EARWARMER

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 20″ long (before seaming) x 3″ tall

    Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: 80 yards of #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Red Roads.”

    Gauge: To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    CH17.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 3 buttons (1″ – 1-1/8″)

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    FHDC     (foundation half double crochet – see “Special Stitches”)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:

    Foundation Half Double Crochet (FHDC)
    This is the recommended way of beginning the pattern and is better shown than explained, so please watch the included tutorial video as a guide. There is also an optional classic chain start noted in the pattern, if you would like to do that instead.

    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) A video tutorial for the stitch pattern is available up in the post, or by clicking here.
    (4) To make earwarmer larger or smaller, add or subtract an even number of stitches from the starting row or chain. For reference, if you met gauge, 4 stitches = 1″.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    Row 1: FHDC* 78. (*Alternate start: CH79, HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH) (78)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 76 STS. SC in final ST. (78)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (78)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 38 times. SC in final ST. (78)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (78)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 76 STS. SC in final ST. (78)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (78)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 38 times. SC in final ST. (78)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (78)

    Row 10: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 76 STS. SC in final ST. (78)

    Edging: CH1, SC in same ST to round corner. Working down the short edge of the earwarmer, SC in each row (10). Ch1 to round corner. SC in each ST across long edge of earwarmer. CH1 to round corner. SC in each row of next short edge. CH1 to round corner. SC in each ST across remaining long edge. Ch1. Join with a SL ST to the first SC of the edging. Fasten off and weave in ends.

    Buttons: Overlap one short edge over the other by about 1″. Pin in place if needed. Attach buttons at top, bottom, and center, sewing through both layers to hold earwarmer together.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliaearwarmer and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Malia Messy Bun Beanie

    Malia Messy Bun Beanie

    This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection (including a slouchy hat, beanie, infinity scarf, buttoned cowl and more), please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

    I got so many requests for a messy bun hat pattern last season. The problem was, I had already gone on a self-imposed maternity leave by the time the messy hat trend exploded!

    I’ve had quite a few people ask me if I believe the messy bun hat will be popular again this season, and while I don’t think it will match the absolute CRAZY levels of viral-ness it did last year, I do think that the messy bun hat is here to stay. Why? Because it’s more than just a style trend. It’s also super practical! The concept has been around for a long time, but now that a lot more people know about it, I think it will probably become a regular part of the winter accessory lineup.

    So, my first messy bun hat pattern is here! (Sorry it’s a year late.) If you’ve already made a Malia Beanie or Malia Slouch, this will be super simple for you. If you haven’t, I recommend you watch the video tutorial for those hats to get you started. The tutorial shows you step by step how to make the beanie (adult large size) but all we’re doing to convert it to a messy bun beanie is skipping straight to Round 3 and working it around a hair elastic. Everything else is the same!

    Here are a few more photos. Scroll down for the free pattern!

    Free Printable Tags

    I made some cute printable tags for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting this hat, a tag or wrap just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. I included a wraparound label (shown in the photo) as well as a smaller tag that can be attached to a piece of decorative string wrapped around your finished product, by punching a hole through the corner and threading the string through before tying a bow to secure. Print on cardstock for best results!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA MESSY BUN HAT (2 SIZES)

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Finished Size: 8.25″ tall x 18.5″ around (teen / adult small), and 8.25″ tall x 20″ around (adult medium / adult large).

    Yarn: #4 aran weight. Individual yardage listed under each size in the pattern. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Faded Porch Swing.”  (See Malia CAL Homepage for substitution suggestions.)

    Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Gauge: The importance of checking your gauge for this project cannot be understated. Because of the construction of the hat, it is difficult to adjust mid-pattern if you discover it is turning out too large. Even if you typically do not complete gauge checks, I strongly encourage you to do so this time. To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    CH17.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, hair elastic

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:
    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rounds and rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) Click here to view a video tutorial for the beanie version of this pattern.
    (4) Individual instructions are listed first, followed by seaming instructions at the bottom, which is the same for both sizes.

    SIZE: TEEN / ADULT SMALL

    Finished Size: 8.25″ tall x 18.5″ around
    Yarn Total: 150-160 yards

    INSTRUCTIONS:

    Base Round: Attach yarn to hair elastic and secure with a knot. Work 72SC around the hair elastic. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (72)

    Your elastic will be VERY crowded with stitches and will be wavy. This is good! We are now switching to vertical rows, and working them one by one using the stitches we just crocheted around the elastic. The pattern refers to the stitches around the elastic as the “base round”.

    Row 1: CH29. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. SL ST to the base of the CH29, then SL ST to the next ST along the Base Round. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along the Base Round, SC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 11 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 empty STS along the Base Round. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along the Base Round, HDC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 22 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 empty STS along the Base Round. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along the Base Round, SC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 11 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 empty STS along the Base Round. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along the Base Round, HDC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 22 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 empty STS along the Base Round. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Rows 10-65: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 7 more times.

    Rows 66-72: Repeat Rows 2-8.

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the seam.

    SIZE: ADULT MEDIUM / LARGE

    Finished Size: 8.25″ tall x 20″ around
    Yarn Total: 190-200 yards

    INSTRUCTIONS:

    Base Round: Attach yarn to hair elastic and secure with a knot. Work 84SC around the hair elastic. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (84)

    Your elastic will be VERY crowded with stitches and will be wavy. This is good! We are now switching to vertical rows, and working them one by one using the stitches we just crocheted around the elastic. The pattern refers to the stitches around the elastic as the “base round”.

    Row 1: CH29. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. SL ST to the base of the CH29, then SL ST to the next ST along the Base Round. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along the Base Round, SC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 11 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 empty STS along the Base Round. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along the Base Round, HDC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 22 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 empty STS along the Base Round. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along the Base Round, SC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 11 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 empty STS along the Base Round. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along the Base Round, HDC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 22 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 empty STS along the Base Round. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Rows 10-81: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 9 more times.

    Rows 82-84: Repeat Rows 2-4.

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the seam.

    SEAMING

    Turn hat inside out. Thread your yarn needle onto the long finishing tail and sew the first 6 stitches (the ribbed band) together, stitch by stitch. The following photo is a screenshot from the video tutorial:

    Once you finish with the ribbed section, sew the rest of the seam up, stitch by stitch, putting your needle through the 3rd loop only of the final row of HDCs and across to the corresponding stitch on the other side of the seam. This will ensure that the seam creates a row of visible top loops to match the other 3rd loop rows around the hat. The following photo is a screenshot from the video tutorial, with the 3rd loops highlighted:

    Fasten off and weave in your ends.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliamessybunhat, and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!

     

  • Malia Newborn Beanie

    Malia Newborn Beanie

    This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection (including an adult beanie, slouchy hat, infinity scarf, and buttoned cowl), please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

    Is there anything cuter than a little newborn beanie? Every time I make one, I think to myself, were my boys’ heads really this small once? (Actually, probably not. My kids all had big heads!)

    Unlike the rest of the Malia Crochet-Along Patterns, which used Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic yarn, for this pattern I used Cascade Longwood which is one of my all-time favorite yarns. The Rustic Romantic is gorgeous but it has hemp in it, and that makes it not quite soft enough for a newborn head. Longwood on the other hand is smooth and soft and has beautiful stitch definition, and it washes up great. I made my son’s baby blanket from it and it is holding up beautifully!

    There is endless debate about whether or not pom poms (or buttons, or ribbons) should be used on a baby’s hat. My thought is, a newborn should never be left unattended ever, unless she is in the safety of her crib, and she wouldn’t be wearing a winter beanie during nap time, anyway! I don’t even leave hats on my babies in their car seats, because hell hath no fury like that of a baby who has just pulled his hat over his eyes and is out of reach of his driving mama. Of course, it’s up to you whether you are comfortable attaching a pom pom to this hat, and I think it’s pretty adorable either way.

    This hat uses my special faux-cinched, top-down, vertical method – meaning you begin the hat in rounds, then switch to vertical rows, and you end up with a beautiful vertical design without having to sew it shut at the end. This method produces a nice even cinch at the top. At first the method might seem confusing, but many who have tried it have ended up falling in love with it! There is a video tutorial for the adult version of this beanie that may help you as you start the hat. Your numbers will be different, but the construction is the same.

    Free Printable Tags

    I made some cute printable tags for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting this hat, a tag or wrap just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. I included a wraparound label as well as a smaller tag (shown in photo below) that can be attached to a piece of decorative string wrapped around your finished product, by punching a hole through the corner and threading the string through before tying a bow to secure. Print on cardstock for best results!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA NEWBORN BEANIE

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Finished Size: 5″ tall x 12″ circumference (will fit a 0-3 month old baby with an average 13-15″ head)

    Yarn: 80 yards of #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Cascade Longwood.

    Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Gauge: The importance of checking your gauge for this project cannot be understated. Because of the construction of the hat, it is difficult to adjust mid-pattern if you discover it is turning out too large. Even if you typically do not complete gauge checks, I strongly encourage you to do so this time. To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    CH17.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, optional small faux fur pom pom

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:
    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rounds and rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) Click here to view a video tutorial for the adult version of this pattern.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To Begin: Make a magic circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 8SC in MC, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (8)

    Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (16)

    Round 3: CH1. 3SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (48)

    At this point you should have a very wavy circle. We are now switching to vertical rows, and working them one by one using the stitches from Round 3.

    Row 1: CH19, turn. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH; row is complete. Being sure that the wrong side of the circle is facing you (because we turned), SL ST to the base of the CH19, then SL ST to the next ST along Round 3. (18 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 14 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (18)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (18 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 14 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (18)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (18 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 14 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (18)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (18 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 14 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (18)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (18 + 2 SL STS)

    Rows 10-41: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 4 more times.

    Rows 42-48: Repeat Rows 2-8.

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the seam.

    SEAMING

    Turn hat inside out. Close up the magic circle and weave in that end only. Then, thread your yarn needle onto the long finishing tail and sew the first 4 stitches (the ribbed band) together, stitch by stitch. The following photo is a screenshot from the adult version’s video tutorial:

    Once you finish with the ribbed section, sew the rest of the seam up, stitch by stitch, putting your needle through the 3rd loop of the final row of HDCs and across to the corresponding stitch on the other side of the seam. This will ensure that the seam creates a row of visible top loops to match the other 3rd loop rows around the hat. The following photo is a screenshot from the adult version’s video tutorial, with the 3rd loops highlighted:

    Weave in your tail and cut off the excess. Attach a pom pom (optional.)

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #malianewbornbeanie, and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Malia Infinity Scarf

    Malia Infinity Scarf

    This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection (including a beanie, slouch, and buttoned cowl), please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

    The third pattern in the Malia CAL is a gorgeous infinity scarf! The texture in this scarf is just to die for, and the addition of the fringe gives it a casual, relaxed vibe.

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    If you need a little extra help with the pattern, here is a video tutorial, and the free pattern is at the bottom of the page!

    Free Printable Tags

    I made some cute printable tags for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting this cowl, a tag just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. Print on cardstock for best results!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA INFINITY SCARF

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 56″ around x 6.5″ wide

    Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: 580 yards of #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Okie Wheat.”

    Gauge:  To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    CH17.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 4 buttons (1″ – 1-1/8″)

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    FHDC     (foundation half double crochet – see “Special Stitches”)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:

    Foundation Half Double Crochet (FHDC)
    This is the recommended way of beginning the pattern and is better shown than explained, so please watch the included tutorial video as a guide. There is also an optional classic chain start noted in the pattern, if you would like to do that instead.

    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) Pattern is worked as a flat piece and then secured into an infinity style with buttons.
    (4) A video tutorial is available up in the post, or by clicking here.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    Row 1: FHDC* 204. (*Alternate start: CH205, HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH.) (204)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 202 STS. SC in final ST. (204)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (204)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 101 times. SC in final ST. (204)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across.

    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 202 STS. SC in final ST. (204)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (204)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 101 times. SC in final ST. (204)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across.

    Rows 10-25: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 2 more times. (204)

    Row 26: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 202 STS. SC in final ST. (204)

    Edging (1 side only, optional): CH1, SC in same ST to round corner. Working down the short edge of the scarf, SC in each row (26). SL ST to the 2nd corner, fasten off and weave in all ends.

    Fringe: Cut about 160 9″ long strands of yarn. (I wrap mine around a 9″ cutting board.) Start at one corner and attach them in groups of 3, every 4 stitches along the entire bottom edge of the scarf.

    Buttons: Lay the scarf out in front of you wrong side up and bring the short ends together, overlapping the end with the edging (if applicable) over the edge without the edging by about 1″. (Ends should now be right side facing up.) Pin it in place if desired. Use yarn and yarn needle or a sewing needle and thread to sew each button onto the edge, evenly spaced, sewing through both layers to hold the scarf together. To help with spacing, start with the top and bottom buttons and then move on to the middle two.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliascarf, and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Malia Buttoned Cowl

    Malia Buttoned Cowl

     This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection (including a beanie, slouch, and infinity scarf), please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

    The fourth pattern in the Malia CAL is a boho-style buttoned cowl! Worked flat, this beautifully-textured piece works great both over a t-shirt or tucked under a winter coat.

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    If you need a little extra help with the pattern, here is a video tutorial, and the free pattern is below!

    Free Printable Tags

    I made some cute printable tags for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting this cowl, a tag just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. Print on cardstock for best results!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA BUTTONED COWL

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 30.5″ long x 8″ tall

    Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: 355 yards of #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Sugared Oats.”

    Gauge: To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    CH17.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 3 buttons (1″ – 1-1/8″)

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    FHDC     (foundation half double crochet – see “Special Stitches”)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:

    Foundation Half Double Crochet (FHDC)
    This is the recommended way of beginning the pattern and is better shown than explained, so please watch the included tutorial video as a guide. There is also an optional classic chain start noted in the pattern, if you would like to do that instead.

    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) A video tutorial is available up in the post, or by clicking here.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    Row 1: FHDC* 108. (*Alternate start: CH109, HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH) (108)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 106 STS. SC in final ST. (108)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (108)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 53 times. SC in final ST. (108)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (108)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 106 STS. SC in final ST. (108)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (108)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 53 times. SC in final ST. (108)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (108)

    Rows 10-25: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 2 more times. (108)

    Rows 26-29: Repeat Rows 2-5. (108)

    Row 30: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 106 STS. SC in final ST. (108)

    Edging (1 side only, optional): CH1, SC in same ST to round corner. Working down the short edge of the scarf, SC in each row (30). SL ST to the 2nd corner, fasten off and weave in all ends.

    Fringe: Cut about 90 9″ long strands of yarn. (I wrap mine around a 9″ cutting board.) With the textured (right) side of the cowl facing up, and the edging (if you chose to use edging) on the left side, start at one bottom corner and attach them in groups of 3 strands every 4 stitches along the entire bottom edge of the cowl. (If you don’t know how to attach fringe, see video tutorial for guidance.)

    Buttons: Attach buttons to bottom of cowl using the diagram shown.

    For further help on button placement and wearing the cowl with buttons fastened, please see the video tutorial (toward the end).

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliabuttonedcowl and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Malia Slouch (2 sizes)

    Malia Slouch (2 sizes)

    This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection (including a beanie, infinity scarf, and buttoned cowl), please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

    The second pattern in the Malia CAL is a slouchy version of the Malia Beanie! As with the beanie, I used a unique blend of the top-down method and the vertical method for constructing this hat, resulting in what I think is the best of both worlds – a cute vertical design and a secure cinched top. It’s a little confusing to explain, but I’ve made a video tutorial for both patterns in case you need a little help! The video tutorial follows the large pattern size, but all you need to do differently for the smaller size is follow the first 3 rounds from the “Teen / Adult Small” pattern and then continue on with the video instructions.

    Free Printable Tags

    I made some cute printable tags for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting this hat, a tag or wrap just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. I included a wraparound label as well as a smaller tag (shown in the photo) that can be attached to a piece of decorative string wrapped around your finished product, by punching a hole through the corner and threading the string through before tying a bow to secure. Print on cardstock for best results!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA SLOUCH (2 SIZES)

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Finished Size: 9.5″ tall x 18.5″ around (teen / adult small), and 9.5″ tall x 20″ around (adult medium / adult large)

    Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: #4 aran weight. Individual yardage listed under each size in the pattern. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Antique Iron.” (See Malia CAL Homepage for substitution suggestions.)

    Gauge: The importance of checking your gauge for this project cannot be understated. Because of the construction of the hat, it is difficult to adjust mid-pattern if you discover it is turning out too large. Even if you typically do not complete gauge checks, I strongly encourage you to do so this time. To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    CH17.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, optional faux fur pom pom

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)
    …..

    Special Stitches:
    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rounds and rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) Click here to view a video tutorial.
    (4) Individual instructions are listed first, followed by seaming instructions at the bottom, which is the same for both sizes.

    SIZE: TEEN / ADULT SMALL

    Finished Size: 9.5″ tall x 18.5″ around
    Yarn Total: 240-260 yards

    To Begin: Make a magic circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 12SC in MC, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (12)

    Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (24)

    Round 3: CH1. 3SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (72)

    At this point you should have a very wavy circle. We are now switching to vertical rows, and working them one by one using the stitches from Round 3.

    Row 1: CH35, turn. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH; row is complete. Being sure that the wrong side of the circle is facing you (because we turned), SL ST to the base of the CH35, then SL ST to the next ST along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 28 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 14 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 28 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 28 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 28 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 14 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 28 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 28 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Rows 10-65: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 7 more times.

    Rows 66-72: Repeat Rows 2-8.

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the seam.

    SIZE: ADULT MEDIUM / LARGE

    Finished Size: 9.5″ tall x 20″ around
    Yarn Total: 260-275 yards

    To Begin: Make a magic circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 14SC in MC, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (14)

    Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (28)

    Round 3: CH1. 3SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (84)

    At this point you should have a very wavy circle. We are now switching to vertical rows, and working them one by one using the stitches from Round 3.

    Row 1: CH35, turn. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH; row is complete. Being sure that the wrong side of the circle is facing you (because we turned), SL ST to the base of the CH35, then SL ST to the next ST along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 28 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 14 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 28 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 28 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 28 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 14 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 28 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 28 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Rows 10-81: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 9 more times

    Rows 82-84: Repeat Rows 2-4

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the seam.

    SEAMING

    Turn hat inside out. Close up the magic circle and weave in that end only. Then, thread your yarn needle onto the long finishing tail and sew the first 6 stitches (the ribbed band) together, stitch by stitch. You can find more details on that step in the video tutorial:

    Once you finish with the ribbed section, sew the rest of the seam up, stitch by stitch, putting your needle through the 3rd loop of the final row of HDCs and across to the corresponding stitch on the other side of the seam. This will ensure that the seam creates a row of visible top loops to match the other 3rd loop rows around the hat. You can find more details on that step in the video tutorial:

    Weave in your tail and cut off the excess. Attach a pom pom (optional.)

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliaslouch, and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Malia Beanie (2 Sizes)

    Malia Beanie (2 Sizes)

    This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection (including a slouchy hat, infinity scarf, and buttoned cowl), please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

    Winter is coming, and that means… hat season! I love hat season, especially on school mornings, because between getting the kindergartener and the first grader ready for school and feeding and dressing the baby, I never have time to do much more than throw my hair up in a pony tail. (Yes, I could wake up earlier, but I value my sleep.) But when it’s cold enough to switch out the hair tie for a hat, a pretty winter beanie adds a little cuteness to the hot mess look, amiright?

    I experimented with this design quite a bit because I knew I wanted it to be worked vertically to achieve the design I had in my head, but honestly, I’m not a huge fan of the work-flat-and-sew-to-cinch method. I’ve used it in a handful of my patterns because it’s the only way I knew how to achieve the vertical design, but sometimes I feel like I can’t close the top securely enough and the cinch often looks a bit unbalanced. So after some thinking, I thought up another method (which I’m sure has been done before by others) to combine my favorite top-down method with a vertical design and I’m really happy with how it turned out. It’s a little confusing to explain, but I’ve made a video tutorial for this pattern in case you need a little help! The video tutorial follows the large pattern size, but all you need to do differently for the smaller size is follow the first 3 rounds from the “Teen / Adult Small” pattern and then continue on with the video instructions.

    Free Printable Tags

    I made some cute printable tags for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting this hat, a tag or wrap just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. I included a wraparound label (shown in the photo) as well as a smaller tag that can be attached to a piece of decorative string wrapped around your finished product, by punching a hole through the corner and threading the string through before tying a bow to secure. Print on cardstock for best results!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA BEANIE (2 SIZES)

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Finished Size: 8.25″ tall x 18.5″ around (teen / adult small), and 8.25″ tall x 20″ around (adult medium / adult large)

    Yarn: #4 aran weight. Individual yardage listed under each size in the pattern. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Faded Porch Swing.”  (See Malia CAL Homepage for substitution suggestions.)

    Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Gauge: The importance of checking your gauge for this project cannot be understated. Because of the construction of the hat, it is difficult to adjust mid-pattern if you discover it is turning out too large. Even if you typically do not complete gauge checks, I strongly encourage you to do so this time. To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    CH17.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, optional faux fur pom pom

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:
    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rounds and rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) Click here to view a video tutorial for this pattern.
    (4) Individual instructions are listed first, followed by seaming instructions at the bottom, which is the same for both sizes.

    SIZE: TEEN / ADULT SMALL

    Finished Size: 8.25″ tall x 18.5″ around
    Yarn Total: 160-175 yards

    To Begin: Make a magic circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 12SC in MC, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (12)

    Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (24)

    Round 3: CH1. 3SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (72)

    At this point you should have a very wavy circle. We are now switching to vertical rows, and working them one by one using the stitches from Round 3.

    Row 1: CH29, turn. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH; row is complete. Being sure that the wrong side of the circle is facing you (because we turned), SL ST to the base of the CH29, then SL ST to the next ST along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 11 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 22 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 22 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 11 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 22 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 22 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Rows 10-65: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 7 more times.

    Rows 66-72: Repeat Rows 2-8.

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the seam.

    SIZE: ADULT MEDIUM / LARGE

    Finished Size: 8.25″ tall x 20″ around
    Yarn Total: 190-210 yards
    Note: This size was originally published as the only available.

    To Begin: Make a magic circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 14SC in MC, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (14)

    Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (28)

    Round 3: CH1. 3SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (84)

    At this point you should have a very wavy circle. We are now switching to vertical rows, and working them one by one using the stitches from Round 3.

    Row 1: CH29, turn. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH; row is complete. Being sure that the wrong side of the circle is facing you (because we turned), SL ST to the base of the CH29, then SL ST to the next ST along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 11 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 22 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 22 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 11 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 22 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 22 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Rows 10-81: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 9 more times

    Rows 82-84: Repeat Rows 2-4

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the seam.

    SEAMING

    Turn hat inside out. Close up the magic circle and weave in that end only. Then, thread your yarn needle onto the long finishing tail and sew the first 6 stitches (the ribbed band) together, stitch by stitch. The following photo is a screenshot from the video tutorial:

    Once you finish with the ribbed section, sew the rest of the seam up, stitch by stitch, putting your needle through the 3rd loop of the final row of HDCs and across to the corresponding stitch on the other side of the seam. This will ensure that the seam creates a row of visible top loops to match the other 3rd loop rows around the hat. The following photo is a screenshot from the video tutorial, with the 3rd loops highlighted:

    Weave in your tail and cut off the excess. Attach a pom pom (optional.)

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliabeanie, and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!