Every year around this time, when we dig out the boxes full of Christmas decorations, I say to myself “this year we are all going to have matching stockings!”

I think in the younger years of a family, Christmas stockings tend to be random and mismatched because each new addition to the family comes on a different year. I brought my stocking with me when I moved from my family’s house into the one I shared with my new husband, and I think we bought him one that year. When Sam was born, we bought one for him, and two years later, one for Isaiah, too. Of course, none of them matched!

There’s nothing wrong with that, and each one holds special memories. But. The older I get, the more I love the idea of looking at the mantle and seeing 5 coordinating stockings. What can I say? Life is chaos, and a little order makes my anxious heart happy. (Can you tell I’m a mom of all boys!?)

If I’m being honest, this year probably won’t be the year we achieve my dream of matching stockings, because it’s already December 5th (what!?) and I’ve only made one. But I am SO going be ready for next year thanks to this new pattern – the Malia Christmas Stocking!

VIDEO TUTORIAL

If you’ve been following along with the Malia pattern collection, this pattern won’t give you much trouble, if any. But if you need a little extra help with any of the stitches in the pattern, I created a video tutorial for previous Malia patterns in which I crocheted up a swatch of the stitch pattern. You might find it useful to scan through the tutorial if you find yourself stuck at any point!

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MALIA CHRISTMAS STOCKING

Difficulty: Easyish

Finished Sizes: 16.5″ tall (folded) or 20.5″ tall (unfolded) x 9″ wide

Hook: I (5.0 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

Yarn: 275 yards of COLOR A (yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Red Roads”) and 95 yards of COLOR B (yarn used in sample photos is Bernat Baby Blanket Tiny in “Snow Cap”). Both yarns are #4 medium weight.

Gauge: To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook. Please note that I have a tight tension, so it is entirely possible that you will need a smaller hook.

Pattern for Gauge:
CH17.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 3 decorative buttons, needle & thread, 11″ long coordinating ribbon (I used 1.5″ thick burlap)

Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
BLO (back loop only)
SC2TOG (single crochet two together)
HDC2TOG (half double crochet two together)
3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

Special Stitches:

Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

3rd Loop Only
Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) A video tutorial for a swatch of the stitch pattern is available up in the post, or by clicking here.

 

INSTRUCTIONS – SIDE 1

To begin: CH39.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (38)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 18 times. 2SC in final ST. (39)

Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (39)

Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each of the first 38 STS. 2SC in 3rd loop of final ST. (40)

Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (40)

Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 19 times. 2SC in final ST. (41)

Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (41)

Row 8: Ch1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each of the first 40 STS. 2SC in 3rd loop of final ST. (42)

Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (42)

Row 10: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 20 times. 2SC in final ST. (43)

Row 11: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (43)

Row 12: Ch1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each of the first 42 STS. 2SC in 3rd loop of final ST. (44)

Row 13: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (44)

Row 14: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 21 times. 2SC in final ST. (45)

Row 15: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (45)

Row 16: Ch1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each of the first 44 STS. 2SC in 3rd loop of final ST. (46)

Row 17: Ch1, turn. SC in each ST across. (46)

Row 18: Ch1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 22 times. 2SC in final ST. (47)

Row 19: Ch1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (47)

Row 20: Ch1, turn.  SC in 3rd loop of each of the first 46 STS. 2SC in 3rd loop of final ST. (48)

Row 21: Ch1, turn.  SC in each ST across. (48)

Row 22: Ch1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 23 times. 2SC in final ST. (49)

Row 23: Ch1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (49)

Row 24: Ch1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each of the first 48 STS. 2SC in 3rd loop of final ST. (50)

Row 25: Ch1, turn. SC in each of the first 22 STS. SC2TOG. Leave the rest unworked. (23)

Row 26: Ch1, turn. SC2TOG. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 10 times. SC in final ST. (22)

Row 27: Ch1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (22)

Row 28: Ch1, turn. In 3rd loops of first 2 STS, SC2TOG. SC in 3rd loops of each remaining ST across. (21)

Row 29: Ch1, turn. SC in each of the first 19 STS. SC2TOG. (20)

Row 30: Ch1, turn. SC2TOG. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 8 times. SC2TOG. (18)

Row 31: Ch1, turn. HDC2TOG. HDC in each of the next 14 STS. HDC2TOG. (16)

Row 32: Ch1, turn. In 3rd loops of first 2 STS, SC2TOG. SC in 3rd loops of each of the next 12 STS. In 3rd loops of final 2 STS, SC2TOG. (14)

Row 33: Ch1, turn. SC2TOG. SC in next ST. HDC in each of the next 2 STS. DC in each of the next 4 STS. HDC in each of the next 2 STS. SC in next ST. SC2TOG. (12)

Edging: CH1; SC evenly around the entire piece, putting one SC in each ST or row end as applicable, and using the image below to place 2SC or 3SC where indicated (this will help keep your stocking from curling). Fasten off and weave in ends.

 

INSTRUCTIONS – SIDE 2

To begin: CH39.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (38)

Row 2: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 18 times. SC in final ST. (39)

Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (39)

Row 4: CH1, turn. 2SC in 3rd loop of first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the remaining 38 STS. (40)

Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (40)

Row 6: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 19 times. SC in final ST. (41)

Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (41)

Row 8: Ch1, turn. 2SC in 3rd loop of first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the remaining 40 STS. (42)

Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (42)

Row 10: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 20 times. SC in final ST. (43)

Row 11: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (43)

Row 12: Ch1, turn. 2SC in 3rd loop of first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the remaining 42 STS. (44)

Row 13: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (44)

Row 14: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 21 times. SC in final ST. (45)

Row 15: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (45)

Row 16: Ch1, turn. 2SC in 3rd loop of first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the remaining 44 STS. (46)

Row 17: Ch1, turn. SC in each ST across. (46)

Row 18: Ch1, turn. 2SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 22 times. SC in final ST. (47)

Row 19: Ch1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (47)

Row 20: Ch1, turn. 2SC in 3rd loop of first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the remaining 46 STS. (48)

Row 21: Ch1, turn.  SC in each ST across. (48)

Row 22: Ch1, turn. 2SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 23 times. SC in final ST. (49)

Row 23: Ch1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (49)

Row 24: Ch1, turn. 2SC in 3rd loop of first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the remaining 48 STS. (50)

Fasten off.

Row 25: Turn the work like you normally would to start a new row. Skip the first 26 STS, and reattach yarn in the next (27th) ST, then CH1. Beginning in same ST, SC2TOG. SC in each of the remaining 22 STS. (23)

Row 26: Ch1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 10 times. SC2TOG. (22)

Row 27: Ch1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (22)

Row 28: Ch1, turn. SC in 3rd loops of the first 20 STS. In 3rd loops of final 2 STS, SC2TOG. (21)

Row 29: Ch1, turn. SC2TOG. SC in each of the remaining 19 STS. (20)

Row 30: Ch1, turn. SC2TOG. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 8 times. SC2TOG. (18)

Row 31: Ch1, turn. HDC2TOG. HDC in each of the next 14 STS. HDC2TOG. (16)

Row 32: Ch1, turn. In 3rd loops of first 2 STS, SC2TOG. SC in 3rd loops of each of the next 12 STS. In 3rd loops of final 2 STS, SC2TOG. (14)

Row 33: Ch1, turn. SC2TOG. SC in next ST. HDC in each of the next 2 STS. DC in each of the next 4 STS. HDC in each of the next 2 STS. SC in next ST. SC2TOG. (12)

Edging: CH1; SC evenly around the entire piece, putting one SC in each ST or row end as applicable, and using the image below to place 2SC or 3SC where indicated (this will help keep your stocking from curling). Fasten off and weave in ends.

SEAMING

Put stocking sides together, right sides facing out, and attach yarn in the top left corner through both layers; CH1. SL ST evenly around the left, bottom, and right edges of the stocking, going through all 4 loops (both layers) of each stitch, putting one SL ST in each ST or row end as applicable, and 2 SL STS wherever needed to keep stocking from curling. (You can use Side 1’s placement as a guide.) I find it difficult to SL ST twice in one stitch, so for the 2nd SL ST, I skip over the loop closest to me and work it through the remaining 3 loops. Once you reach the top right corner, CH1 and SC evenly (1 SC in each row end) around the top of the stocking, one layer at a time (don’t crochet it closed, or Santa won’t be able to fill it!), going all the way around the top until you come back to where you started; SL ST to the top of the first SC. (You should have 48 SC.)

TOP RIBBING SECTION
If you need some extra guidance, a video tutorial for how to add ribbing to crochet projects can be found here.)

Attach new color (if you are switching); fasten off previous color.

Base Round: CH1, SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (48)

Row 1: CH33. SC in 2^nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 31 chains. SL ST into the first SC from the Base Round, the stitch on which your CH33 was built. SL ST into the next SC from the Base Round. (32, plus the two slip stitches along the Base Round)

The section we just created, built on the CH33, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in the Base Round, SC in BLO of each of the first 31 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (32)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1^st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 31 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of the Base Round. (32, plus the two slip stitches along the Base Round)

Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in the Base Round, SC in BLO of each of the first 31 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (32)

Rows 5-48: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way around the Base Round.

Row 49: CH1, do not turn. SC along the top of the ribbing, putting 1SC in each row end (48). Fasten off, leaving a long tail, and use it to sew the first and last ribbing rows together. Weave in all ends.

BUTTONS

Fold ribbing down over itself until it extends about an inch lower than its bottom edge. Place buttons where indicated and sew them on, working through the front double layers of ribbing to help hold everything in the correct place.

RIBBON

Tuck ribbon ends into the stocking on the left side, about an inch below the top edge, and sew them to the inside, 1 against each side of the stocking. (I should note here that I am not a seamstress by any stretch of the imagination, and those of you who are may be cringing at what I did to attach the ribbon… so, if you have any kind words of wisdom, please feel free to put them in the comments below!)

 

Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliachristmasstocking and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!