Category: Crochet Patterns

  • Crocheted Christmas Wall Hanging

    Crocheted Christmas Wall Hanging

    I have a fun Christmas project for you!

    I got the idea for this crocheted wall art while I was walking through the Christmas section of Hobby Lobby. I kept seeing these popular farmhouse-style paintings of a wreath mounted on wood, and I thought… I could do something like that! Of course I wanted to put my own crocheted spin on it, so I gathered some supplies and got to work.

    The 18″x18″ canvas, wreath and “Joy” ornament were all from Hobby Lobby, as well as the yarn I used: Yarn Bee Must Be Merino Aran in White.

    First, I crocheted a 20″x20″ square piece of fabric. I did the first third of it in the Malia stitch pattern, the middle in the herringbone half double crochet stitch, and the last section in Malia again. Then, I staple-gunned it to the canvas (shout out to my dad, who is alway up for helping me with my projects), being careful to keep everything nice and straight and taut. Here’s what it looked like on the front:

    And on the back:

    Not so pretty on the back! But that’s just the nature of crocheted fabric. As long as the front is nice and smooth, who cares!

    After I finished with the canvas, I attached the small wreath using some 20 gauge wire that I found in the jewelry section. I simply stuck the wire through the wreath in two nearby places, then through the crocheted fabric and canvas to the back, where I joined the wire ends by twisting them together. I did that again in two more places around the wreath to keep everything in place. Then I set the “joy” ornament in the middle; I didn’t attach it, because I want to be able to change it out, but you could easily hot glue it in place.

    And that’s all there is to it!

    You could totally crochet up a different fabric for the canvas; you don’t have to use the same stitches I did. Just make sure it’s about 2″ wider than the canvas you are using, all the way around. You’ll need those extra inches to wrap it around the edge.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    Crocheted Christmas Wall Hanging

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 20″ x 20″ fabric (to cover an 18″ square canvas)

    Hook: H (5.0 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: Yarn Bee Must Be Merino Aran, a #4 aran weight yarn. I used about 500 yards, or a little more than 3 skeins, of the color “White”.

    Gauge: 15 HDC = 4″ across.

    You’ll also need: 18″ square canvas, wreath (mine is about 12″), decoration for center, staple gun, 20 gauge wire

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)
    HHDC (herringbone half double crochet – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:

    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Herringbone HDC (HHDC)
    Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) If you don’t want to worry about gauge, just use a ruler and chain any odd amount. Measure your first couple of rows to make sure they are about 2″ wider than the canvas.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To begin: CH77.

    Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (76)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 74 STS. SC in final ST. (76)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (76)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 37 times. SC in final ST. (76)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (76)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 74 STS. SC in final ST. (76)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (76)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 37 times. SC in final ST. (76)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (76)

    Rows 10-25: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 2 more times. (76)

    Rows 26-30: Repeat Rows 2-6. (76)

    Rows 31-48: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (76)

    Row 49: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (76)

    Row 50: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 74 STS. SC in final ST. (76)

    Row 51: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (76)

    Row 52: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 37 times. SC in final ST. (76)

    Row 53: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (76)

    Row 54: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 74 STS. SC in final ST. (76)

    Row 55: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (76)

    Row 56: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 37 times. SC in final ST. (76)

    Row 57: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (76)

    Rows 58-73: Repeat Rows 50-57, in order, 2 more times. (76)

    Rows 74-78: Repeat Rows 50-54. (76)

    Fasten off and weave all ends into the wrong side of the fabric.

    Attaching Fabric to Canvas

    Carefully attach the fabric to the canvas by wrapping it around the edges and securing it with a staple gun. Begin by choosing one edge and stapling right in its center, then stretch fabric taut and straight across canvas and staple center on the opposite edge. Keeping fabric taut, staple the center on the third edge, then staple 4th and final edge. See image for visual:

    After all 4 edges are attached, continue by stapling fabric on either side of the first staple, on each edge. (I turned my canvas over several times to make sure everything was nice and straight, using the lines of the fabric as a guide.) See red Xs in image:

    Continue to staple out from the center on each edge until fabric is completely attached. You can then go around and add more staples where you think they are needed.

    Attaching wreath

    After your fabric is attached to the canvas, it’s time to add the wreath! I attached mine with 20 gauge wire by threading both ends of one piece of wire through a section of the wreath (two different spots, but super close together), through the fabric, and through the canvas, then twisting them together on the back of the canvas. I did this in three parts of the wreath to keep everything secure.

    If you want, you can add another decoration to the center. I used an ornament that I found at Hobby Lobby; I simply removed the string, and placed it strategically so that the branches covered up the holes in the ornament. I did not permanently attach the ornament, but if you want to, you can use a hot glue gun.

    And that’s it! I hope you love your new wall decor!

    If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design. Stay cozy!

  • Simple Twisted Earwarmer

    Simple Twisted Earwarmer

    There are so many reasons I love earwarmers. I love wearing them on days when I want my hair up; but beyond that, they’re such a quick, easy crochet project! This one is particularly mindless because it’s simply rows of half double crochet in back loops only, and finished with a beautiful twist that’s much easier than it looks.

    And, if you’re trying to build a craft fair inventory, earwarmers can be a great addition! (Tip: choose just a handful of styles, and work them up in several modern colors. They’re sure to sell!)

    But whether you’re selling, making Christmas gifts, or just making yourself something to feel beautiful in, this pattern is for you.

    Video Tutorial

    You can follow along with me with this tutorial video, regardless of what size you are making! I put the pattern instructions right on screen so you can relax and go at your own pace. Be sure to subscribe, too!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    Simple Twisted Earwarmer

    Difficulty: Beginner/Easy

    Finished Sizes: 17″ x 3.5″ (toddler), 18″ x 4″ (child), 20″ x 4.5″ (teen/adult small), 21″ x 4.5″ (adult large)

    Hook: H (5.0 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: Cascade Longwood Sport, a #3 weight yarn, in the following amounts: 80 yds (toddler), 90 yds (child), 110 yds (teen/adult small), 115 yds (adult large). Color used in sample is “Oatmeal”.

    Gauge: 16 HDC (worked in BLO) x 12.5 rows = 4″ square

    You’ll also need: yarn needle

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    CH (chain)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    BLO (back loop only)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) To resize earwarmer, your starting chain can be any number.
    (4) Pattern is written for toddler size with additional sizes in brackets [child, teen/adult small, adult large]. So, for example, if it says “CH71 [75, 85, 89]”, the first number is for the toddler size, and the numbers in brackets are child, teen/adult small, and adult large instructions, respectively. If you are working from printed instructions, it helps to circle or highlight the numbers you are following before you begin.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To begin: CH69 [73, 81, 85].

    Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (68 [72, 80, 84])

    Rows 2-12 [2-13, 2-14, 2-14]: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. HDC in BLO of each of the next 66 [70, 78, 82] STS; 1 ST remains. HDC in both loops of final ST. (68 [72, 80, 84])

    Fasten off, leaving a tail for seaming. Weave in starting tail only.

    Seaming with a Twist

    1. Thread the long finishing tail through your yarn needle and gently set it aside. Lay ear warmer flat, then gather the edges and layer them together as shown.

    2. Thread the yarn needle across the edges, being sure to grab yarn from all four layers.

    3. Continue to weave the yarn needle back and forth across the surface of the edges, being sure to grab yarn from all four layers each time.

    4. Weave in the tail, then turn earwarmer right side out.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #simpletwistedearwarmer and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Stay warm out there!

  • Crocheted Waist Belt

    Crocheted Waist Belt

    –

    The idea for this easy belt came when I bought a dress for an upcoming autumn wedding. I loved the dress but it was a busy fabric from top to bottom, and I felt like it needed something to break it up a bit. I was hesitant to crochet anything because I wanted it to stay really simple and modern looking, but I decided to take on the challenge with some pretty mustard-colored yarn I had leftover from my Little Rustic Pumpkins.

    I looked all over the place for a belt buckle clasp that would really up the fashion factor, and was delighted when I found this cute, modern clasp on Etsy! (Here’s my affiliate link for My Chic Mercerie on Etsy; at the time of publishing, her shop is taking a mini break, but she’ll be back soon.)

    So here’s the outfit all put together. What do you think? (I think I need to remake this belt in several colors for other outfits!)

    I actually bought the dress on Amazon and I LOVE it. (It has pockets!!) Here’s my affiliate link if you want to shop for one of your own. It comes in all kinds of pretty designs; I also got one with a black top and black/white plaid bottom. (I’m thinking I’ll make an aqua-colored belt for that one to give it a pop of color!)

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    I’ve put together a step-by-step video tutorial for you visual learners! The instructions for the pattern are written right on the screen, so you can follow along visually while also developing your pattern-reading skills. It’s a feature I’ve gotten lots of compliments for on my videos, so it’s definitely worth the extra effort it takes to include it!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    CROCHETED WAIST BELT

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: You decide!

    Hook: C (2.75mm)

    Yarn: #3 DK weight. How much you’ll need will totally depend on how wide and long you make your belt; but for reference, I made a 34″ x 2.75″ belt and used about 160 yards of Yarn Bee Must Be Merino (in “Gold”).

    Gauge: Done in 3rd loops, 14 HDC x 9 rows = 2″ square. Gauge is not important as long as you’re measuring against your buckle closure and your body as you go.

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, belt buckle clasp (I bought mine from My Chic Mercerie on Etsy)

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    CH (chain)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) When determining the length your belt should be, keep in mind that (1) the belt will stretch quite a few inches, and (2) the buckle will account for part of the length, as well. It is best to measure your belt around the small of your waist as you go. 

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To begin: CH to a length about 1/2″ shorter than the width of your belt buckle clasp opening. (I chained 16.)

    Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH.

    Row 2: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. HDC 3rd loops of all but the final ST. HDC (in top loops) of final ST.

    Repeat Row 2 until belt is the length you want it to be; be sure to work an even number of rows.

    Edging

    Have metal clasps ready, then follow the instructions. Each bullet represents one side of the belt. 

    • CH1, do not turn. Working down the long edge, put 3SC (in a single spot) between each row of ribbing (see image).
    • Working through belt buckle opening, SC into each ST along short side of belt.
    • Working down next long edge, put 3SC (in a single spot) between each row of ribbing to the end.
    • Working through 2nd belt buckle opening, making sure you attach it so that it will clasp correctly with the buckle at the other end, SC into each ST along short side of belt.

    Join with a SL ST to top of first SC of edging.

    Double check to ensure buckles clasp correctly, then fasten off and weave in ends.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #crochetedwaistbelt and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • How to Make A Chunky Yarn Wreath

    How to Make A Chunky Yarn Wreath

    I’ve got a really simple and fun tutorial for you!

    All you need for this easy tutorial is super chunky / bulky / jumbo yarn, a crochet hook, superglue and a foam wreath. After that, you can add whatever beautiful embellishments you want!

    So grab your materials, and watch the video below to find out how I did it.

  • Little Rustic Pumpkin

    Little Rustic Pumpkin

    I love fall. I absolutely adore it. While most of my friends are mourning the passing of summer, I feel like I come alive when the air starts to get crisp and the big tree in front of my house starts to turn fiery red. Apple cider? Love it. Cozy sweaters? Bring it on. Fireplace? LIGHT IT UP.

    What better way to usher in my favorite season than with a cute little crocheted pumpkin?

    I mean, really. That fall-colored yarn? Those curly thingys? So cute.

    I posted a preview of these on Facebook and someone tried to tell me they were knitted. Which would be quite the miracle, considering the fact that I have no idea how to knit. I promise, they’re crocheted!

    Even Simba agrees.

    So if you’re ready to make one or two or twenty for yourself, read on!

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    I’ve put together a step-by-step video tutorial for you visual learners! The instructions for the pattern are written right on the screen, so you can follow along visually while also developing your pattern-reading skills. It’s a feature I’ve gotten lots of compliments for on my videos, so it’s definitely worth the extra effort it takes to include it!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    LITTLE RUSTIC PUMPKIN

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 3″ tall x 4.5″ wide

    Hook: E (3.5mm)

    Yarn: Approx. 80 yards of #3 dk weight yarn. For the samples, I used Yarn Bee Must Be Merino in “Rust” and “Gold”. (The off-white, slightly larger pumpkin in the photos was made with the same pattern, but using Must Be Merino Aran (#4 yarn) in “Khaki” and a 4.5mm hook.)

    Gauge: 8 rows of 21 HDC worked in 3rd loops = 4″ square. Unless you are concerned about having enough yarn to complete your pumpkin, gauge is really not that important.

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, polyester fiber fill, hot glue gun, cinnamon stick, and covered wire.

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    MC     (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitch”)

    Special Stitch:

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) Yarn, hook size and gauge are only meant as a guide, and this pattern will work with any yarn you choose; just use a hook that is smaller than the yarn’s recommended size for a nice tight fabric, and keep in mind your yarn amounts and finished dimensions will be affected by any changes.
    (4) Any time the pattern references the “top” of the pumpkin, it is referring to the end with the magic circle.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To begin: Make a magic circle, CH1.

    Round 1: 14 SC in MC, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. Do not pull MC hole closed; we want it to remain a bit open for the stem later. (14)

    Round 2: CH1. 3 SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (42)

    – – – – – –

    Next we’re going to make the body of the pumpkin, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching to Round 2 with SL STS as we go.

    – – – – – –

    Row 1: CH27. SC in 2nd chain from hook, HDC in each of the next 24 STS, SC in final ST. SL ST into the first SC from Round 2, the stitch on which your CH27 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Round 2. (26, plus the two slip stitches along Round 2)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 2, SC in first ST, HDC in 3rd loop of each of the next 24 STS, SC in final ST. (26)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST, HDC in 3rd loop of each of the next 24 STS, SC in final ST. SL ST into each of the next 2 STS of Round 2. (26, plus the 2 SL STS along Round 2)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 2, SC in first ST, HDC in 3rd loop of each of the next 24 STS, SC in final ST. (26)

    Rows 5-42: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Round 2.

    Bottom Edge Round: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly along the bottom edge of the pumpkin, putting one SC at the end of each row; you should have 42 SC. (See photo for guidance). Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (42)

    Fasten off, leaving a yard-long tail (more if you’re using thicker than DK yarn).

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Shaping + Finishing

    Follow these steps to shape and finish your pumpkin. Remember, the “top” of the pumpkin is where your magic circle is. Watch the video tutorial for additional help.

    1. Stem:
      Cut a length of cinnamon stick to serve as the pumpkin stem. Insert into the hole created by the magic circle, then pull the starting tail so that it tightens up around the stem. Weave in starting tail; remove stem. (You’ll glue it in place at the end.)
    2. Seaming:
      With finishing tail threaded into yarn needle, hold pumpkin so that the magic circle end is to the left, and the final row of HDC is above the initial chain row. (Depending on how you were holding your pumpkin as you crocheted it, you may need to turn it inside out to accomplish this.) Begin by running yarn needle up through first chain and first (SC) stitch (first image). Then, coming back the other way, insert needle down through the 3rd loop of the HDC, and down across through the corresponding chain (2nd image). Do the exact same thing on the next stitch; come down through the 3rd loop of the next HDC, and down across through the corresponding chain. Seam each HDC to its corresponding chain in this way (3rd image), and when you get to the final stitch (which is an SC), run needle through it and down to the final chain. Tie a knot to prevent pulling; do not fasten off.
    3. Cinching, Stuffing and Closing:
      Turn pumpkin right-side out so that your finishing tail is inside. Still using the finishing tail and yarn needle, bring yarn down through the middle of the pumpkin and insert needle into one of the stitches along the bottom edge of the pumpkin. Pull excess yarn through the stitch, and without pulling it tight (leave it somewhat inside the pumpkin), tie another knot (first image). Use yarn needle to weave tail along the edge of the pumpkin, weaving every 3 stitches until you’re back where you started (2nd image). Set yarn needle down and stuff pumpkin, then pull yarn tail to cinch closed (3rd image). Weave yarn needle across the cinch in a couple different directions to reinforce closure; tie a knot, but do not fasten off.
    4. Shaping:
      Take a look at the top of your pumpkin, and identify the circle of 14 holes created when you crocheted Round 2 (the small holes that were the result of putting three SCs into each stitch). Still threaded with finishing tail, push yarn needle up through the middle of the pumpkin and out one of those holes, then reinsert needle into the next hole to the right and back down through the middle of the pumpkin (first image), and out the bottom, being sure to catch a couple strands of yarn from the bottom cinched edge. Then repeat the process, going back up through the pumpkin and out through the next hole to the right, then back down through the hole after that and back down to the bottom. Each time you make a pass, pull the yarn a bit to shape the pumpkin (the centers should begin to pull inward; 2nd image). Do this all the way around the 14 holes until center is completely pulled inward (3rd image). Tie a couple knots at the bottom and fasten off yarn.
    5. Stem + Covered Wire:
      Add a bit of fast-drying glue to the cinnamon stick where you want to attach your covered wire curls, then quickly wrap the middle of the covered wire around the glue a couple of times; hold to set (first image). Wrap each end of the wire around a pencil to shape into a curl (2nd image). Add more glue to the magic circle area of the pumpkin (image 3), then quickly insert cinnamon stick and push down; hold to set.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #littlerusticpumpkin and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Cabin Fever Cowl

    Cabin Fever Cowl

    I think cowls are the greatest thing. They basically style themselves, and they don’t fall off. That’s a win for me!

    The Cabin Fever Cowl is the match to the Cabin Fever Slouch. It’s chunky, oversized, and stylish. And it’s easy! There’s nothing groundbreaking about the design of this set; it’s just a simple stitch paired with a beautiful yarn in rich fall colors. And it’s beautiful.

    I loved it so much, I made a second one!

    About the Yarn

    For this pattern set, I used a yarn that I acquired during our family vacation to the Great Smoky Mountains this summer. I have always wanted to visit an A.C. Moore store, but I live several hours from the nearest one… so when our road trip took us right through Cincinnati, we made a quick stop – literally, I basically ran to the yarn aisle and went straight for Stitch Studio By Nicole’s Earthtone, grabbed a bunch of them, and hurried up to checkout. (When you have a travel-weary toddler waiting for you in the van, you don’t get to take your time!)

    I’ve seen several of you using Earthtone for my patterns throughout the years, and always wanted to get my hands on some. I absolutely love it. It’s soft and the colors are rich and beautiful and the tweediness adds so much character. A good tweed gives acrylic projects a much more natural look, and it’s also very forgiving. I can hardly even tell where my seam is from the outside!

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    I’ve put together a step-by-step video tutorial for you visual learners! The instructions for the pattern are written right on the screen, so you can follow along visually while also developing your pattern-reading skills. It’s a feature I’ve gotten lots of compliments for on my videos, so it’s definitely worth the extra effort it takes to include it!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    CABIN FEVER COWL

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 35″ around x 14″ tall

    Hook: H (5.0mm)

    Yarn: Approx. 550 yards of #4 aran weight. You will need about 410 yards of COLOR A and 140 yards of COLOR B. Yarn used in sample photos is Stitch Studio By Nicole’s Earthtone, found at A.C. Moore stores. (Don’t live near an A.C. Moore? Other similar yarns include Vanna’s Choice by Lion Brand or Rustic Romantic by Hobby Lobby.)

    Gauge: Done in 3rd loops, 15 HDC x 13 rows = 4″ square.

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    CH (chain)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    FHDC (foundation half double crochet – see “Special Stitches”)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:

    Foundation Half Double Crochet (FHDC)
    This is the recommended way of beginning the pattern and is better shown than explained, so check out the video tutorial if you aren’t familiar with the technique. There is also an optional classic chain start noted in the pattern, if you would like to do that instead.

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rounds, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) When instructed to “join”, always join with a slip stitch to the first stitch of the round.
    (4) Instead of fastening off at each color change, you will be carrying your yarn up the seam on the inside of the cowl. Instructions for how to do this are written into the pattern.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    Round 1: With COLOR A, FHDC 130. (Alternate start: CH131, HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH.) Join, being careful to not twist the round. There will be a gap where the bottom edge of your first and last stitches do not touch; we’ll fix that later. (130)

    Rounds 2-22: CH1, turn. HDC in 3rd loops around. Join. (130)

    Round 23: Attach COLOR B (do not fasten off COLOR A). CH1, turn. HDC in 3rd loops around. Join, making sure working tail from COLOR A is in front of the join stitch. (130)

    Round 24: Switch to COLOR A (do not fasten off COLOR B). CH1, turn. HDC in 3rd loops around. Join, making sure working tail from COLOR B is behind the join stitch. (130)

    From this point on, every time you join, be sure that the yarn is always carried up on the same side of the fabric.

    Rounds 25-44: Repeat Rounds 23-24. (Note that when you repeat Round 23, you are no longer attaching COLOR B as it is already attached; you are just switching back to it.)

    Fasten off. Use your starting tail to stitch the gap at the beginning closed, then weave in all ends.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #cabinfevercowl and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Cabin Fever Slouch

    Cabin Fever Slouch

    A good slouchy beanie is a staple in any cozy cold weather wardrobe. And I don’t know about you, but I am so ready for a little cold weather!

    The snow can hold off for a while as far as I’m concerned, but bring on the crisp fall air and the fireplaces and apple cider and changing leaves. Fall in Michigan is short-lived but absolutely stunning!

    To complete the set, I made matching cowl. Click here to view the pattern for the Cabin Fever Cowl!

    About the Yarn

    For this pattern set, I used a yarn that I acquired during our family vacation to the Great Smoky Mountains this summer. I have always wanted to visit an A.C. Moore store, but I live several hours from the nearest one… so when our road trip took us right through Cincinnati, we made a quick stop – literally, I basically ran to the yarn aisle and went straight for Stitch Studio By Nicole’s Earthtone, grabbed a bunch of them, and hurried up to checkout. (When you have a travel-weary toddler waiting for you in the van, you don’t get to take your time!)

    I’ve seen several of you using Earthtone for my patterns throughout the years, and always wanted to get my hands on some. I absolutely love it. It’s soft and the colors are rich and beautiful and the tweediness adds so much character. A good tweed gives acrylic projects a much more natural look, and it’s also very forgiving. I can hardly even tell where my seam is from the outside!

    (Edited 10/20/20 to add: This yarn is now discontinued. There are so many beautiful aran weight yarns available in stores, though, so no worries… just use your favorite one!) 

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    I’ve put together a step-by-step video tutorial for you visual learners! The instructions for the pattern are written right on the screen, so you can follow along visually while also developing your pattern-reading skills. It’s a feature I’ve gotten lots of compliments for on my videos, so it’s definitely worth the extra effort it takes to include it!

    ABOUT THOSE CUTE LEATHER TAGS

    Those adorable tags on my sample hats aren’t actually leather at all – they’re cork! I had mine printed by All This Wood (affiliate link). They always do a great job for me. If you purchase tags of your own through this link, you won’t pay any extra, but I’ll get a small percentage of the sale. My affiliate links are just one of the ways I am able to keep releasing free patterns, so I am always incredibly appreciative of anyone who uses them!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    CABIN FEVER SLOUCH

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 9″ tall x 9.75″ wide, when laid flat

    Hook: H (5.0mm)

    Yarn: Approx. 200 yards of #4 aran weight. You will need about 125 yards of COLOR A and 75 yards of COLOR B. Yarn used in sample photos is Stitch Studio By Nicole’s Earthtones, previously found at A.C. Moore stores (now discontinued). 

    Gauge: First 5 rounds = 4″ across

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, fur pom (optional)

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    MC     (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    CH (chain)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitch”)

    Special Stitch:

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. (When you work the band of the hat, it will be behind the back loop.) When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) When instructed to “join”, always join with a slip stitch to the first stitch of the round.
    (4) Instead of fastening off at each color change, you will be carrying your yarn up the seam on the inside of the hat. Instructions for how to do this are written into the pattern.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To begin: With COLOR A, make a magic circle, CH1.

    Round 1: 10 HDC in MC, join. (10)

    Round 2: Attach COLOR B (do not fasten off COLOR A); CH1, turn. In 3rd loops, 2 HDC in each ST around. Join, making sure working tail from COLOR A is in front of the join stitch. (20)

    Round 3: Switch to COLOR A; CH1, turn. In 3rd loops throughout, 2 HDC in first ST, HDC in next ST, (2 HDC in next ST, HDC in next ST) around. Join, making sure working tail from COLOR B is behind the join stitch. (30)

    From this point on, every time you join, be sure that the yarn is always carried up on the same side of the fabric.

    Round 4: Switch to COLOR B; CH1, turn. In 3rd loops throughout, 2 HDC in first ST, HDC in each of the next 2 STS, (2 HDC in next ST, HDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join. (40)

    Round 5: Switch to COLOR A; CH1, turn. In 3rd loops throughout, 2 HDC in first ST, HDC in each of the next 3 STS, (2 HDC in next ST, HDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. Join. (50)

    Round 6: Switch to COLOR B; CH1, turn. In 3rd loops throughout, 2 HDC in first ST, HDC in each of the next 4 STS, (2 HDC in next ST, HDC in each of the next 4 STS) around. Join. (60)

    Round 7: Switch to COLOR A; CH1, turn. In 3rd loops throughout, 2 HDC in first ST, HDC in each of the next 5 STS, (2 HDC in next ST, HDC in each of the next 5 STS) around. Join. (70)

    Round 8: Switch to COLOR B; CH1, turn. In 3rd loops throughout, 2 HDC in first ST, HDC in each of the next 6 STS, (2 HDC in next ST, HDC in each of the next 6 STS) around. Join. (80)

    Round 9: Switch to COLOR A; CH1, turn. In 3rd loops, HDC in each ST around. Join. (80)

    Round 10: Switch to COLOR B; CH1, turn. In 3rd loops, HDC in each ST around. Join. (80)

    Round 11: Switch to COLOR A; CH1, turn. In 3rd loops, HDC in each ST around. Join. (80)

    Rounds 12-23: Repeat Rounds 10-11.

    – – – – – –

    Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to Round 23 (the final round of the hat) with SL STS as we go.

    – – – – – –

    Row 1: CH9. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 7 chains. SL ST into the 3rd loop (now found behind the top loops since we didn’t turn our work) of the first HDC from Round 23, the stitch on which your CH9 was built. SL ST into the 3rd loop of the next HDC from Round 23. (8, plus the two slip stitches along Round 23)

    The section we just created, built on the CH9, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 23, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 7 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in 3rd loop of each of the next 2 STS of Round 23. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Round 23)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 23, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

    Rows 5-80: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Round 23.

    Fasten off and use your tail to sew together the gap between the first and last rows of the ribbing, then weave in your ends.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #cabinfeverslouch and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Linen Stitch Baby Blanket

    Linen Stitch Baby Blanket

    The linen (or moss, or seed, or granite) stitch has become a popular choice for baby blankets, and it’s easy to see why. A little quicker than a purely single crocheted blanket (which I also love; see here), the linen stitch still provides a solid and modern-looking fabric, safe for those little baby fingers.

    The linen stitch is very basic, so it’s left up to the crocheter to decide how to spruce it up with color. I actually got the inspiration for this blanket from one of my son’s newborn socks! (What can I say? You never know when inspiration will strike.)

    ABOUT THE YARN

    This was my first experience with Lion Brand’s Feels Like Butta (affiliate link) yarn. It’s just as soft as they say it is; a little dense, but great for a stroller or carseat blanket for a cooler-weather baby. It doesn’t split at all, and the colors are fresh and bright.

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    I’ve put together a step-by-step video tutorial for you visual learners! The instructions for the pattern are written right on the screen, so you can follow along visually while also developing your pattern-reading skills. It’s a feature I’ve gotten lots of compliments for on my videos, so it’s definitely worth the extra effort it takes to include it!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    LINEN STITCH BABY BLANKET

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: Approx. 30” wide x 36” long (stroller blanket size)  

    Hook: J (6.0mm) and F (4.0mm). My favorite hooks are Clover Amour.

    Yarn: Approx. 1100 yards of #4 aran weight yarn in 3 colors. Yarn used in sample is Lion Brand Feels Like Butta in Pale Grey (COLOR A, about 390 yards), White (COLOR B, about 320 yards), and Lilac (COLOR C, about 390 yards).

    Gauge: With larger hook, the following pattern = 4″ square:

    To begin: CH19.
    Row 1: SC in 3rd CH from hook. (CH1, SK next ST, SC in next ST) across.
    Rows 2-18: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SK first ST, SC in CH1 space. (CH1, SK next ST, SC in next CH1 space) across.

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    BLO (back loop only)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) A video tutorial is available up in the post, or by clicking here.
    (3) When doing your gauge check: If you have to move up or down in hook size to match gauge, be sure to move up or down the same number of millimeters for your smaller hook as well.
    (4) Fasten off at each color change.
    (5) Because of all of the CH1s in the linen stitch, you’re going to want to try to keep a loose tension in the body of the blanket. CHs do not have the stretch that other stitches do. Adjust your hook size if it seems the body of the blanket is getting wider or thinner than the ribbed section.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    INSTRUCTIONS

    TOP RIBBING

    With smaller hook and COLOR A, CH11.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (10)

    Rows 2-144 (or until ribbing measures about 29-30″ long): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 8 STS. SC in final ST. (10)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    BODY (Row count restarts back to 1)

    Switch to larger hook. Pay attention in your first few rows, and if they seem like they are getting wider than the strip of ribbing, downsize your hook; if they are pulling the ribbing inward, choose a larger hook.

    Body, Row 1: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), do not turn. We are now working down the long edge of the ribbing. Look at the edge of the ribbing as a series of tiny peaks and valleys. Skip over the first peak and SC in the valley right after it. (CH1, SK next peak, SC in next valley) across, putting your final SC in the corner of the ribbing at the other end. (72 CH1 spaces + 72 SC)

    Rows 2-154: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SK first ST, SC in CH1 space. (CH1, SK next ST, SC in next CH1 space) across. (72 CH1 spaces + 72 SC). Use the following color pattern:

    Rows 2-32 (32 rows): COLOR A
    Rows 33-34 (2 rows): COLOR B
    Rows 35-42 (8 rows): COLOR A
    Rows 43-46 (4 rows): COLOR B
    Rows 47-52 (6 rows): COLOR A
    Rows 53-58 (6 rows): COLOR B
    Rows 59-62 (4 rows): COLOR A
    Rows 63-70 (8 rows): COLOR B
    Rows 71-72 (2 rows): COLOR A
    Rows 73-82 (10 rows): COLOR B
    Rows 83-84 (2 rows): COLOR C
    Rows 85-92 (8 rows): COLOR B
    Rows 93-96 (4 rows): COLOR C
    Rows 97-102 (6 rows): COLOR B
    Rows 103-108 (6 rows): COLOR C
    Rows 109-112 (4 rows): COLOR B
    Rows 113-120 (8 rows): COLOR C
    Rows 121-122 (2 rows): COLOR B
    Rows 123-154 (32 rows): COLOR C

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    BOTTOM RIBBING

    In this section, we will be creating the bottom ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the body as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 154”; that’s the last row of the body of the blanket we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to. I cover this in the video tutorial for this blanket, but if you feel you need a little more in-depth help with this part, here’s another tutorial video that is specifically about this technique.

    – – –

    Switch to smaller hook; CH11.

    Row 1: Turn. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 9 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Row 154, the stitch on which your CH11 was built. SL ST into the 1st CH1 space from Row 154. (10, plus the two slip stitches along Row 154)

    The section we just created, built on the CH11, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 154, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 9 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in next SC and next CH1 space along row 154. (10, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 154)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 154, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)

    Rows 5-144: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way across Row 154.

    Fasten off and weave in ends.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #linenstitchbabyblanket and tag me @yarnandchai.design 

    Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Herringbone Square Basket Set 

    Herringbone Square Basket Set 

    I’ve been getting so many requests for a square version of my baskets and I’ve promised to publish a pattern… today I’m finally delivering on that promise!

    You can read through my design process, or scroll down for the free pattern.

    Figuring Out the Base

    I knew that I wanted these baskets to be built in one piece (no seaming). I initially started with a square base made in the round, like you would build a granny square, but I just wasn’t happy with the way the base puckered. Baskets need a tighter-than-usual hook and yarn combo that simply isn’t compatible with a nice flat worked-in-the-round square. So next, I tried a square worked in rows. Much better! Because of the tightness, the square didn’t lay flat at first, but by the time I finished the basket you never would’ve known.

    Stabilizing the Sides

    I also experimented with the plastic canvas to figure out the best way to utilize it. (If you aren’t familiar with my plastic canvas method for round baskets, check it out!) Round baskets naturally have a balanced design that provides structure to the edges, but square baskets lack that because of their long edges and inner corners. I started by putting folds in the canvas to accommodate the corners, but ended up cutting at the folds and stacking separate pieces against the individual sides of the basket. It seemed to make the corners a little more defined.

    Adding Handles

    I grabbed some leather from the craft store and cut it into small strips for the handles. I initially tried to attach them to the basket with rivets, but it wasn’t going very smoothly, and even when I did a decent job of hammering them, they still popped out of the yarn. So, I went with Plan B and sewed them on. I used a tiny hole punch to punch 4 holes in each end and used leftover yarn to sew them on with an “X”, going right through the plastic canvas on the inside of the basket. Of course, handles on your basket are totally optional. It does add a lot of character, though!

    So after lots of trial and error, I think I’ve come up with a pretty cute square basket!

    About Those Cute Leather Tags

    Those adorable tags on my baskets aren’t actually leather at all – they’re cork! I had mine printed by All This Wood (affiliate link). They always do a great job for me. If you purchase tags of your own through this link, you won’t pay any extra, but I’ll get a small percentage of the sale. My affiliate links are just one of the ways I am able to keep releasing free patterns, so I am always incredibly appreciative of anyone who uses them!

    Video Tutorial

    I’ve put together a video tutorial to assist you throughout this pattern. The video tutorial is specifically designed to help you create any size of basket you want! Instructions for inserting the plastic canvas can be found at 27:35.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    Herringbone Square Basket Set

    Difficulty: Easy

    Yarn: I used Bernat Maker Home Dec (a #5 bulky weight cotton/nylon blend) in “Clay”. Yarn amounts are listed with individual pattern sizes.

    Hooks: H (5.0mm) and G (4.25mm)

    Gauge: With larger hook, 14 SC x 14 rows =4″ square

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker, heavy duty plastic canvas

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see Special Stitches, below)
    3rd Loop     (see Special Stitches, below)

    Special Stitches:

    HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

    3rd Loop: Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. For this pattern the 3rd loop can be found just below the back loop on the side of the work that is facing away from you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, reach over the two top loops and insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the right side of the pattern. Also called Camel Stitch or RibHDC.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) IMPORTANT: Part of this pattern is worked in rows, part is worked in seamless rounds, and a small portion is worked in joined rounds. Pay attention, and only join, chain and/or turn when specifically instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds when working seamlessly.
    (3) When instructed to “join”, you should always join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of that round.
    (4) The finished size of each basket is listed on its individual pattern.
    (5) Heavy duty plastic canvas is inexpensive and can be purchased in individual sheets at many craft stores.
    (6)  To resize the basket, simply chain the length you want one side to be, then crochet the same number of rows as you have stitches in each row. 

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    SMALLER BASKET

    Yarn Used: 125 yards
    Finished Size: 6″ wide x 2.5″ tall

    To begin: CH17.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining chain. (16)

    Rows 2-16: CH1, turn. SC across. (16)

    Next we’ll switch to rounds and build up the sides of the basket. 

    Round 1: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across (16 STS). Turn corner and HHDC in each row, as you would if you were adding an edging (16 STS). Turn corner and HHDC in each ST from the starting chain (16 STS). Turn corner and HHDC in each row (16 STS). Do not join. (64)

    Rounds 2-6: HHDC in each ST around. (64)

    Round 7: HHDC in each of the first 62 STS. SC in each of the 2 remaining STS. Join. (64)

    Round 8: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join. (64)

    Switch to smaller hook.

    Round 9: SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Do not join. (64)

    Rounds 10-18 (or until edge touches bottom of basket when folded down): SC in each ST around. (64)

    SL ST into the next ST to smooth down the round. Fasten off and weave in ends, then proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas.”

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    LARGER BASKET

    Yarn Used: 205 yards
    Finished Size: 7.5″ wide x 3″ tall

    To begin: CH23.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining chain. (22)

    Rows 2-22: CH1, turn. SC across. (22)

    Next we’ll switch to rounds and build up the sides of the basket. 

    Round 1: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across (22 STS). Turn corner and HHDC in each row, as you would if you were adding an edging (22 STS). Turn corner and HHDC in each ST from the starting chain (22 STS). Turn corner and HHDC in each row (22 STS). Do not join. (88)

    Rounds 2-8: HHDC in each ST around. (88)

    Round 9: HHDC in each of the first 86 STS. SC in each of the 2 remaining STS. Join. (88)

    Round 10: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join. (88)

    Switch to smaller hook.

    Round 11: CH1. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Do not join. (88)

    Rounds 12-21 (or until edge touches bottom of basket when folded down): SC in each ST around. (88)

    SL ST into the next ST to smooth down the round. Fasten off and weave in ends, then proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas.”

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Adding Plastic Canvas

    Cut across your plastic canvas to make strips that are the same height as the inner layer of the basket, and as long as two sides of it. (Cut at least 4; add more for more stability.) Set your basket so that it is completely unfolded. Fold strips of canvas in half and insert along each edge, then fold the inside layer down over the canvas. Work the fabric until it all lays neat and flat.

    If you want, you can sew the inner edge of the fabric to the bottom of the basket to keep everything in place. (Don’t do this if you want your basket to be machine washable.)

    A visual demonstration of this process can be found in the tutorial video at the 27:35 mark.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Adding Handles (Optional)

    Cut two equal-sized strips of leather (whatever size you want). Punch 4 holes in each end in a square shape, then use a small yarn needle to sew them to the sides of your basket, working though both layers of crocheted fabric and the plastic canvas in between.

    You’re done!

    I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your baskets on social media, be sure to use hashtag #herringbonebasket and tag me @yarnandchai.design!

  • Malia Baby Blanket

    Malia Baby Blanket

    One of the most common Malia-related requests I get is for a blanket pattern. I always said I’d publish one, but it’s taken me a long time. (Sorry!)

    Truthfully, I’ve been incredibly overwhelmed with life (business and otherwise) for a while. So about a year ago, I decided to <*gasp*> ask for some help. I commissioned a talented crocheter from our Facebook group to create a Malia Baby Blanket with the pattern I had in my head. It was a little scary for me, considering this was the first time I’d asked someone to invest time making pattern of mine that I hadn’t actually made and tested myself yet. But as you can see, it went well… and Erica did a phenomenal job with it!

    I mean look at all those beautiful LBS stitches.

    It’s taken me entirely too long to get this pattern published (again, life = overwhelming), but here it is!

    ABOUT THE YARN

    I sent Erica some Paintbox Simply DK for this sample. I’d never used Paintbox yarn before, and I have to say, the color choices are pretty amazing. I feel like some of the larger yarn companies are trending toward putting out more new lines of yarn with fewer colors to choose from in each one, and I love Paintbox’s philosophy of keeping it simple, because that enables them to be able to offer a wide variety of color choices. This particular yarn (Simply DK) is an acrylic, and while it’s soft, I wasn’t sure if it was soft enough to be a baby blanket. But with a wash, the blanket definitely softened up.

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    If you need a little extra help with the stitches in the Malia stitch pattern, here is a video tutorial! (Please note that this tutorial does not follow the Malia Baby Blanket pattern; I simply show you how to do the Malia stitch pattern by crocheting up a swatch of it.)

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    MALIA BABY BLANKET

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Finished Size: Approx. 30” wide x 37.5” long (stroller blanket size). Each color block is approx. 7.5” tall.  

    Hook: 4.5mm (US-7) hook

    Yarn: Approx. 1,950 yards of #3 DK weight in 5 colors. You’ll need about 390 yards per color. Yarn used in sample photos is Paintbox Simply DK in Paper White (COLOR A), Stormy Grey (B), Marine Blue (C), Bubblegum Pink (D), and Neon Pink (E).

    Gauge: 18 HDC x 14 rows = 4″ square

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:

    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) A video tutorial for the stitch pattern is available up in the post, or by clicking here.
    (4) You may prefer to use one hook size larger than your gauge hook to complete the ribbing at the beginning and end of the pattern. Some people tend to crochet ribbing a little tighter, which can result in some minor pulling inward at each end of the blanket.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    TOP RIBBING

    With COLOR A, CH11.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (10)

    Rows 2-144 (or until ribbing measures about 30″ long; be sure to complete an even number of rows): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 8 STS. SC in final ST. (10)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    BODY (Row count restarts back to 1)

    Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC in each row end along the long edge of the ribbing. (144, or however many ribbing rows you completed)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 71 times. SC in final ST. (144)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (144)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 142 STS. SC in final ST. (144)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (144)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 71 times. SC in final ST. (144)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (144)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 142 STS. SC in final ST. (144)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (144)

    Row 10: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 71 times. SC in final ST. (144)

    Row 11: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (144)

    Row 12: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each ST across. (144)

    Rows 13-28: Repeat Rows 5-12, in order, twice. (144)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Switch to COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A.

    Rows 29-60: Repeat Rows 5-12, in order, 4 times. (144)

    Rows 61-64: Repeat Rows 5-8. (144)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Switch to COLOR C; fasten off COLOR B.

    Rows 65-68: Repeat Rows 9-12. (144)

    Rows 69-100: Repeat Rows 5-12, in order, 4 times. (144)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Switch to COLOR D; fasten off COLOR C.

    Rows 101-132: Repeat Rows 5-12, in order, 4 times. (144)

    Rows 133-136: Repeat Rows 5-8. (144)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Switch to COLOR E; fasten off COLOR D.

    Rows 137-140: Repeat Rows 9-12. (144)

    Rows 141-164: Repeat Rows 5-12, in order, 3 times. (144)

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    BOTTOM RIBBING

    In this section, we will be creating the bottom ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the body as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 164” quite a bit; that’s the last row of the body of the blanket we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to. If you need a little help with this part, here’s a tutorial video.

    CH11.
    Row 1:     Turn. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 9 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Row 164, the stitch on which your CH11 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Row 164. (10, plus the two slip stitches along Row 164)

    The section we just created, built on the CH11, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 164, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 9 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Row 164. (10, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 164)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 164, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)

    Rows 5-144: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way across Row 164.

    Fasten off and weave in ends.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliababyblanket and tag me @yarnandchai.design 

    Hope you enjoyed it!