A classic scarf is always on-trend, so for Day #7 of my 12 Days of Christmas I’m giving you a new pattern for one!
I chose Yarn Bee’s Feelin’ Chunky for my sample scarf (which I’m totally keeping for myself). Feelin’ Chunky is a #5 weight cotton yarn… and I know cotton doesn’t seem like the ideal winter choice, but I’m one of those people that is always too warm so I love the soft, cool feel of this yarn. But you can, of course, choose whatever chunky yarn you love most!
This scarf would also make a great men’s pattern, don’t you think? The texture really isn’t feminine at all. I love the three different colors of tassels because it’s a great opportunity to incorporate color into the scarf without it becoming too busy.
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Hook: L (8mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge
Yarn: Approx. 320 yards of Yarn Bee Feelin’ Chunky, or other similar #5 weight yarn (COLOR A). I used colorway “Dove”. You’ll also need 10 yards each of two additional colors (COLOR B and COLOR C) for the fringe. (These don’t necessarily need to be the same yarn.) I used Yarn Bee Feelin’ Chunky in “White” and Loops & Threads Charisma in “Blush Tweed.”
Notes: (1) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count. (2) To change the length of your scarf, add to or subtract any number from your starting chain. To change the width, add to or subtract from the total number of rows. (Remember, increasing the size will increase the amount of yarn required.)
INSTRUCTIONS
Tobegin: With COLOR A, CH151.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (150)
Rows 2-24: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in FLO across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. (150)
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Adding the Fringe
For the fringe, I cut several 10″ strands of each of my three chosen colors. I attached them in groups of 4 at the end of each row, alternating between using 4 of color A (the main scarf color) and 2 each of colors B and C.
Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see your beautiful work!
If you’re looking for a fast one-skein project, you’ve come to the right place, because day 3 of my 12 Days of Christmas is something you can create in practically no time at all!
Last Christmas, I needed to come up with gifts for my three nieces, who are all young adults. It was coming down to the wire — I’m talking way too late to order from Amazon — and I knew the quickest option would be to look at my yarn stash and come up with a trendy and fast pattern. I grabbed a skein of bulky #5 yarn and got to work on a chunky version of my Simple Twisted Earwarmer. I was so happy when the end result looked cute and cozy… and it only took me about 30 minutes from start to finish!
I wrote out the pattern below in case you’re in need of a speedy project for yourself, for a gift, or even for a holiday craft fair.
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Finished Sizes: 17″ x 3.5″ (toddler), 18″ x 4″ (child), 20″ x 4.5″ (teen/adult small), 21″ x 4.5″ (adult large)
Hook: L (8mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge
Yarn: I used Loops & Threads Charisma, a soft, acrylic #5 weight yarn. (Loops & Threads is a Michael’s brand.) You’ll need about 30 yards (toddler), 45 yards (child), 60 yards (teen / adult small), or 65 yards (adult large). My samples were worked in colorways White Tweed, Cloud, and Blush Tweed. (If you order this yarn online, note that the Tweed version of Charisma has a separate listing!)
Notes: (1) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count. (2) If you’re a visual learner, you can follow my video tutorial for the Simple Twisted Earwarmer. That pattern uses a #4 weight yarn, but you can substitute the starting chain and stitch count from this pattern and still follow along. (3) To change the length of your earwarmer, add or subtract any number from your starting chain. To change the width, add or subtract from the total number of rows. There is no stitch multiple to worry about. (4) Pattern is written for toddler size with additional sizes in parentheses (child, teen/adult small, adult large).
INSTRUCTIONS
Tobegin: CH39 (41, 46, 48).
Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Stitch count: 38 (40, 45, 47)
Rows 2-6 (2-7, 2-8, 2-8): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. HDC in BLO across until 1 ST remains. HDC in final ST. Stitch count: 38 (40, 45, 47)
Fasten off, leaving a 12″ tail for seaming. Weave in starting tail.
Adding the Twist
Follow the instructions below to seam your earwarmer with a twist. Use the image below to guide you. (They are actually from my Simple Twisted Earwarmer pattern, but the technique is the same.)
1. Thread the long finishing tail through your yarn needle and gently set it aside. Lay ear warmer flat, then gather the edges and layer them together as shown, making sure that the corner with the finishing tail is at either the top or the bottom (not one of the layers in the middle).
2. Thread the yarn needle across the edges, being sure to grab yarn from all four layers.
3. Continue to weave the yarn needle back and forth across the surface of the edges, being sure to grab yarn from all four layers each time.
4. Weave in the tail, then turn earwarmer right side out.
Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see your beautiful work!
This pattern is originally part of my 12 Days of Christmas! Click here to return to the 12 Days of Christmas homepage.
In my almost decade of crocheting, I’ve never had a very successful relationship with furry yarn.
There are so many times I’ve wanted to use it, and I’ve bought more variations of it than I can count over the years, but the skeins have never amounted to much of anything because I always end up deciding that whatever I was going to make just wasn’t worth the trouble.
Can you relate?
I’d love to tell you that I have a magic solution for you, but I don’t.
That said… I think I’ve found a yarn that is easier to work with than anything I’ve tried before.
The proof?
I made a pillow with it!
And then I made another, bigger pillow!
That’s right; I finished the first one and still had enough patience in me to make another. And trust me, when you make this pillow… you’re going to want to make another, too. And another. They are sooooo soft and plushy. And with the #6 super bulky yarn, they work up so darn quick once you get the hang of that yarn!
About the Yarn
The yarn I used is Big Twist Sherpa. If you didn’t know, Big Twist is one of Joann Fabrics’ store brands. The Sherpa line showed up in my local store this fall in a big, hard-to-miss center aisle display and the big, fluffy skeins drew me in.
As I mentioned, I’ve never been great with fur yarn. You really have to feel for your next stitch, because the soft faux fur just blends everything together and there is literally zero stitch definition. Big Twist Sherpa made it a little bit easier, though, by using a dark color for the actual thread, and then blending that same dark color out to white. So the darker it is, the closer you are to your stitch… which really helps.
One neat thing about the way the yarn is constructed is that when it’s worked in unturned rounds (as we will with this pillow), the “right” side of the resulting fabric is significantly more color-saturated than the “wrong” side, which brings in a lot more of the white. You’ll see this as you work the pattern, but you won’t have to decide which side you like more until the very end. (I ended up choosing the “wrong” side because I liked the brightness of it.)
One word of caution: be sure to grab enough skeins of the same dye lot for your project. I didn’t pay attention (oops) and let me tell you, the difference in the two skeins when I started to add on the second one was jarring. It’s not so much that the color was different, but the second skein had a much bigger concentration of white. I went back to my store and was very lucky to find a skein that matched my first one!
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Difficulty: Easyish (The pattern is easy… the yarn takes some focus!)
Crochet Language: American Standard
Finished Sizes:For 12″ and 18″ pillow inserts (The opening should measure about .5″-1″ smaller than your pillow insert; it will stretch.)
Yarn: Big Twist Sherpa, a very thick, #6 super bulky yarn. You’ll need 2 skeins for the 12″ pillow, or 3 skeins for the 18″. I used “Sea” and “Wine.”
Hook: 9.0mm (M or N depending on brand; go by mm measurement)
Gauge: 9 CSC x 9 rows = 4″ square (Note that there is no stitch multiple for this pattern, so it would probably be easier to adjust your initial chain to the correct width than to try to match gauge exactly.)
You’ll also need: 12″ or 18″ pillow insert, yarn needle for weaving in super bulky yarn
Terms and Abbreviations: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) CH (chain) CSC (crossed single crochet: Insert hook into stitch. Yarn UNDER, pull through; 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops.)
Notes: (1) Fur yarn is challenging, but you’ll get better with practice. Big Twist Sherpa has been one of the easier fur yarns I’ve used, because the fur gets darker the closer to the actual thread you get, and you can use that dark thread and a sharp eye to locate your top loops. However, I find that most of the time I’m using my fingers to feel for where to insert my hook. (2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round. Do not join, chain or turn unless instructed. (3) Pattern is written for a 12″ pillow insert, with instructions for an 18″ insert written in parentheses.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
INSTRUCTIONS
To begin: CH27 (CH41), or to 11.5”-12” (17.5”-18”)
For Round 1, we’re going to CSC across the length of a chain, and then CSC back down the other side of it until we are back where we started.
Round 1: CSC in 2nd CH from hook (mark this first ST with a stitch marker) and in each remaining CH. Working down the other side of the chain, CSC across. You have now worked in both sides of each chain. DO NOT join. Stitch count: 52 (80)
In the inset image, you can see that I’ve crocheted along the entire chain, completing the first half of Round 1. The illustration shows you what the stitches look like underneath all that fur.
To begin working down the other side of the chain, insert your hook where the pink line at the top is pointing. (If you’re thinking “that’s the same place I made the last CSC”, you’d be right!) Continue to place a CSC in each chain until you are back where you first started.
Rounds 2-27 (2-41), or until pillow measures 12” (18”) tall: CSC in each ST around. Stitch count: 52 (80)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for weaving top of pillow closed. Choose which side you like best, and weave all other tails on whichever side of the pillow you have determined to be the “wrong” side.
Turn pillow right side out. Add pillow insert, then hold open edges of pillow together and seam closed with your preferred method. Here’s how I seamed mine:
Weave in tail and hide excess yarn inside pillow.
That’s it! Enjoy your soft, cozy new pillow!
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your project on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!
As soon as Fall decor started showing up at the craft stores this year, it was clear that buffalo check was going to be a staple of the season. And I’m not complaining… because I love it.
So I was especially pumped to see that the theme is carrying on into Christmas decor, too!
Buffalo check, buffalo plaid… whatever you call it, there’s something downright cozy about this familiar fabric. It takes me back to a little cabin in the Tennessee mountains where our family vacationed a few years back, and I can almost smell the pine trees!
But as “American” as buffalo check feels to, well, Americans, we’re only responsible for the name. The original fabric has much earlier origins in Scotland. Cool, right?
There are a lot of color variations these days, too. You can go with the classic red and black, opt for a modern black and white, or get creative with a different choice altogether. Do whatever suits your personality!
About the Yarn
I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton for all three of my potholders. It’s important to use 100% cotton yarn for potholders, and ILTC has an awesome selection of colors. Here are the three color schemes I crocheted, and their colorways:
COLOR A: Aubergine COLOR B: Black COLOR C: Burnt Sienna
COLOR A: Pewter COLOR B: Black COLOR C: White
COLOR A: Dove COLOR B: Pewter COLOR C: White
I’ve seen some other pretty combos in the craft stores, like green and white, and red and white. If you do decide to stray from the colors I crocheted with, you’ll get best results by starting with white, adding a dark color, and finally choosing a lighter version of the dark color. (True buffalo check fabric is woven and actually only uses 2 colors; the medium color is the result of the dark and light threads crossing paths.)
Free Downloadable Label
Since Buffalo Check Potholders would make a great holiday gift, I’ve included a free downloadable PDF for a wraparound-style label! These wrappers will take your gift presentation up a notch, and would also be great for displaying your potholders as a part of your craft show inventory. Whatever your needs, just click the image to download. (I printed mine on lightly textured, cardboard-colored cardstock to achieve this rustic look.)
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Hook: 4.0mm or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge
Gauge: 22 CSC x 17 rows = 4″ square
Yarn: #4 medium weight cotton yarn in three colors:
COLOR A (midtone): 80 yards
COLOR B (darkest): 45 yards
COLOR C (lightest): 45 yards
I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton for all three of my Buffalo Check Potholders. Check up in the blog post for the colorways used in each one!
You’ll Also Need: Yarn needle, 10″ length of 3mm leather or suede cord for handle
Terms and Abbreviations: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) CH (chain) CSC(crossed single crochet: Insert hook into stitch. Yarn UNDER, pull through; 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops.) FLO (front loop only) JOIN (join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round)
Notes: (1) CH1s at the beginning of rounds do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count. (2) This is an intermediate level pattern because it involves a lot of color changes and carrying yarn. I go through the first round very thoroughly with lots of photos, and then basically set you free with a color chart after that. If you can crochet the first round and it’s all making sense to you, you’ll be just fine to complete the pattern! (3) Pattern is worked in joined, unturned rounds around a base chain and seamed closed at the end, resulting in a sturdy, double-thickness potholder.
INSTRUCTIONS
Tobegin: With COLOR A, CH43.
Round 1: CSC in 2nd CH from hook. CSC in next CH. CSC in next CH, but complete the ST with COLOR B (see photo).
With COLOR B, and carrying COLOR A along behind your stitches, CSC in each of the next 5 CHS. CSC in next ST, but complete the ST with COLOR A (see photo).
Carrying whichever color you are not actively using, continue across the chain, following a color pattern of 6 STS per color (excluding the very first set of 3 STS) until you have three empty chains remaining. Complete the final 3 STS with COLOR B (photo).
Next, you’re going to complete the other half of this set of six COLOR B stitches on the other side of the chain. Place your next 3 STS where indicated in the first image (shown completed in the second image), and don’t forget to complete the final ST with COLOR A to prepare for the color change:
Continue to CSC into the remaining chains, following the 6-stitches-per-color pattern, until only 3 STS remain; complete those STS in COLOR A. (Notice how the first 3 STS and the last 3 STS of the round make a full set of 6 for COLOR A.)
JOIN to the top of the very first ST of the round (indicated in the first photo and shown completed in the second photo). (42)
Rounds 2-30: CH1, do not turn. In FLO, CSC in each ST around, following the color chart below. Join. (42)
A few tips for following the color chart:
To save space, the chart has been condensed using a repeated section, just like a written pattern would. Read it from right-to-left (or left-to-right, if you’re a leftie), and be sure to complete the repeated section the indicated number of times before finishing with your final 3 stitches (or final 9 if you’re a leftie).
The pattern is worked from the bottom up, so start at the bottom of the chart.
Don’t forget, you’ve already completed Round 1.
Remember, when changing colors, always complete the last ST of the previous color by drawing the new color through the two loops on the hook.
When you get to Round 6 and add COLOR C, you can drop COLOR B until you need it again (you don’t need to carry it along). This applies to whenever you get to a round where the blocks of color are different from the previous round.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming. Weave in all other ends.
Seaming
Hold top edges of potholder together so that the color blocks line up with each other, and seam the edges together in your preferred method. Here’s how I seamed mine:
Fasten off and weave in your final end.
Handle
Cut a 10″ length of leather or suede cord (mine was 3mm thick) and use a yarn needle to run it through the potholder near the corner. Tie a knot at the top and trim as necessary.
Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see your beautiful work!
I’ve always been more of a fall person than a Halloween person, but when October 31 rolls around, I don’t mind a bit of spooky decor.
And you know what’s great about a jack-o-lantern made of yarn?
It doesn’t rot! Score.
While I was designing my Petite Autumn Pumpkin, I started brainstorming how I might adapt it into a silly-faced holiday version.
I think he came out pretty cute!
(Full disclosure, I think the kid is even cuter.)
You could also leave the face off completely and just use this as a classic pumpkin pattern. I mean, look at that realistic shaping:
About the Yarn
The yarn I chose for my little jack-o-lantern was chosen based on color, not fiber. (There aren’t a lot of really good pumpkin oranges to choose from!) But Yarn Bee Tweed Indeed in “Pumpkin Tweed” fit my rustic vibe perfectly. It’s the same #4 weight yarn that I used for my Harvest Cardigan pattern, and I love it, but you could easily substitute it with a #4 of your choice.
For the face, I used I Love This Cotton in “Black”; but, again, this #4 weight cotton is easy to substitute!
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Finished Size:Finished pumpkin will be approximately 6” wide x 5.25” tall, but these measurements may vary slightly based on how you stuff and shape it.
Yarn: Approximately 160 yards of #4 worsted weight yarn for COLOR A (I used Yarn Bee Tweed Indeed in “Pumpkin Tweed”) and 20 yards of #4 worsted weight yarn for COLOR B (I used I Love This Cotton in “Black”)
Hook: 4.5mm (G) hook
Gauge: Not super important, but 12 CSC x 11.5 rows = 2” square.
You’ll also need: Regular and extra long yarn needles, stitch marker, poly-fill (stuffing), small stick (or cinnamon stick) for stem, fast drying glue
Terms and Abbreviations: MC (magic circle – view tutorial here) ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) CH (chain) FLO (front loop only) CSC (crossed single crochet: Insert hook into stitch. Yarn UNDER, pull through; 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops.) CSC2TOG (CSC 2 stitches together: Insert hook into FLO of stitch, then immediately insert hook into FLO of the next ST. Yarn UNDER, pull through front loop of each ST; 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops.)
Notes: (1) Pattern is worked in a seamless round. Do not join, chain and/or turn unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds. (2) Crocheting the bulk of the pattern in FLO helps keep the stitches stacked neatly, as opposed to the natural slant they usually have when working in a seamless round. This helps keep the pumpkin’s face from slanting, too! (3) I did not carry COLOR B behind any stitches made with COLOR A; instead, I picked up COLOR B whenever it was needed and dropped it immediately after. (4) When you come to CSC stitches marked as COLOR B, complete them as follows: Insert hook into stitch, drop COLOR A, grab COLOR B and pull through (2 loops on hook); drop COLOR B, yarn over with COLOR A, pull through both loops.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
INSTRUCTIONS
To begin: With COLOR A, make a magic circle; CH1.
Round 1: 20 CSC in MC. (20)
Round 2: 2 CSC in each ST around. (40)
Round 3: 2 CSC in each ST around. (80)
Note: Your circle will be very wavy because of all of the stitches you’ve crowded into a small area. Don’t worry!
Rounds 4-15: CSC in FLO of each ST around. (80)
Rounds 16-31: CSC in FLO of each ST around, following the color chart below. (80)
HOW TO READ THIS CHART: The pumpkin’s face is 19 STS across. Start in the bottom right square and work left. When you’ve completed the 19 charted STS, finish the rest of the round in COLOR A. Then move up a row and start again in the rightmost square. Each time you complete the 19 STS of the charted part of the round, finish the rest of the round with COLOR A.
Refer to pattern notes for more tips.
Lefties: The chart is symmetrical from side to side, so if it helps, you can start in the lower left corner instead.
(Note: The chart is upside down because we are crocheting this pumpkin from the top down.)
Rounds 32-44: With COLOR A, CSC in FLO of each ST around. (80)
Pull up a large loop so your work doesn’t start to unravel, then remove your hook. We’re going to pause here to do two things:
Weave in the starting tail: Turn your pumpkin inside out (so the ridges created by the FLO are visible), then insert your pumpkin stem into the opening created by the magic circle (see photo). Weave in the starting tail, then remove the stem (you’ll glue it in place later).
Turn pumpkin right side out.
Add stuffing: Use the polyfill to stuff the pumpkin. Don’t be skimpy; the better you stuff it, the better pumpkin shape you’ll have in the end.
Reinsert your hook and continue on to Round 45.
Round 45: CSC2TOG around. (40)
Round 46: CSC2TOG around. (20)
To finish: SL ST in each of the next 2 STS to smooth down the round, then fasten off, leaving a tail about 2 yards long.
If your pumpkin needs a little more stuffing after crocheting the last two rounds, add it now.
SHAPING + FINISHING
Cinching and Closing: Use yarn needle and finishing tail to weave along the bottom edge of the pumpkin, weaving in one stitch, out the next until you’re back where you started. Pull yarn tail to cinch closed. Weave yarn needle across the cinch in a couple different directions to reinforce closure; tie a knot, but do not fasten off.
Shaping: Use extra-long yarn needle to run the finishing tail under the diagonal bar of each CSC in a vertical line as shown in the photo below:
Continue all the way to the top, then insert yarn needle down between the 1st and 2nd round and push it down through the pumpkin, pulling it out through the center of the bottom of the pumpkin.
Pull tight, creating an indent in the pumpkin.
Count over 10 stitches to the right from your first indent, and repeat the process.
Continue the process, counting over 10 stitches each time. You should end with 8 evenly spaced indents. Tie a knot and weave in the tail.
Stem: Add a few dots of fast-drying glue to the magic circle area of the pumpkin, then quickly insert stem and push down; hold to set.
All done! Seriously, how CUTE is he!?
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your pumpkins on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!
When the heat of a Michigan summer finally breaks and the leaves start to turn shades of orange and red and yellow and I can snuggle up in a cardigan and fuzzy socks, I feel an overwhelming sense of calmness.
If I could bottle up the feeling that autumn gives me and access it year-round, I would be one peaceful, contented girl.
But alas, fall is fleeting. So let’s make the most of it, starting with a brand new pumpkin pattern, shall we?
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
Finished Size:4.25” wide x 4.25” tall (laid flat, before stuffing). Finished pumpkin will be approximately 3.5” wide x 2.25” tall, but these measurements may vary slightly based on how you stuff and shape it.
Yarn: Approximately 50 yards of a #4 weight yarn.I used Yarn Bee Comfy Classic (samples shown in White, Granite, and Blush). Comfy Classic is a blend of viscose, polyester and nylon. You can substitute another #4 weight yarn to achieve a similar size, or play around with different yarn weights to create pumpkins in different sizes. (Of course, yardage will vary.)
Hook: 4.5mm (G) hook
Gauge: Not super important, but 12 CSC x 11.5 rows = 2” square.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker, poly-fill (stuffing), small stick (or cinnamon stick) for stem, fast drying glue, twine or other pumpkin embellishments
Terms and Abbreviations: MC (magic circle – view tutorial here) ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) CH (chain) FLO (front loop only) CSC (crossed single crochet: Insert hook into stitch, yarn UNDER, pull through — 2 loops on hook; yarn over, pull through both loops.)
Notes: (1) Pattern is worked in a seamless round. Do not join, chain and/or turn unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
INSTRUCTIONS
To begin: Make a magic circle; CH1.
Round 1: 16 CSC in MC. (16)
Round 2: 3 CSC in each ST around. (48)
Rounds 3-22: CSC in FLO of each ST around. (48)
To finish: SL ST in FLO of each of the next 2 STS to smooth down the round, then fasten off, leaving a tail about 2 yards long.
SHAPING + FINISHING
Follow these steps to shape and finish your pumpkin. Remember, the “top” of the pumpkin is where your magic circle is.
Stem: Turn pumpkin inside out. Cut a 1” length of your chosen material to serve as the pumpkin stem. Insert into the hole created by the magic circle, then pull the starting tail so that it tightens up around the stem. Weave in starting tail; remove stem. (You’ll glue it in place at the end.)
Cinching, Stuffing and Closing: Turn pumpkin right-side out. Use yarn needle and finishing tail to weave along the bottom edge of the pumpkin, weaving every 3 stitches until you’re back where you started (1st image). Set yarn needle down and stuff pumpkin (2nd image), then pull yarn tail to cinch closed (3rd image). Weave yarn needle across the cinch in a couple different directions to reinforce closure; tie a knot, but do not fasten off.
Shaping: Use yarn needle to run the finishing tail under the diagonal bar of each CSC in a vertical line as shown in the photo below:
Continue all the way to the top, then insert yarn needle down between the 1st and 2nd round and push it down through the pumpkin, pulling it out through the center of the bottom of the pumpkin. Pull tight, creating an indent in the pumpkin.
Count over 8 stitches to the right from your first indent, and repeat the process.
Continue the process, counting over 8 stitches each time. You should end with 6 evenly spaced indents. Tie a knot and weave in the tail.
Stem: Embellish stem as desired. I wrapped twine around mine 4 or 5 times, then tied it in a small double-knotted bow:
Add a few dots of fast-drying glue to the magic circle area of the pumpkin, then quickly insert cinnamon stick and push down; hold to set.
You’re done!
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your pumpkins on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!
Fun fact about this pattern: I never intended for it to be a pattern! When I crocheted this basket, I was making it up as I went along, trying my hand at the Fair Isle technique for the first time to see if I could do it. In the end, I loved it so much that it seemed a waste to not share it with you all!
Here’s a disclaimer, though. I’m no expert on Fair Isle, as this is my first project that uses it, and I have some work to do as far as consistency of stitches and tension. (If you look close, you’ll see some of that inconsistency, particularly around the middle of the basket.) So this won’t really be one of my more “teaching” patterns where I thoroughly explain everything and give tips and all that. I’m just putting the pattern out there so that anyone who (1) already knows how to do Fair Isle or (2) is confident enough to try can have a go at it. I promise that this won’t be my last Fair Isle pattern, though, and maybe when I’ve gotten a little more experience with it, I’ll come back and make a video for this cute basket!
About Those Leather Tags
Those adorable tags on my baskets aren’t actually leather at all – they’re cork! I had mine printed by All This Wood (affiliate link). They always do a great job for me. If you purchase tags of your own through this link, you won’t pay any extra, but I’ll get a small percentage of the sale. My affiliate links are just one of the ways I am able to keep releasing free patterns, so I am always incredibly appreciative of anyone who uses them!
Quick note — I attached my tag with yarn going through my layers of plastic canvas, so the plastic canvas is pretty much locked in place. Don’t do this if you want your bag to be washable!
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
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Yarn: I used Yarn Bee Studio 72, a sturdy #4 weight acrylic blend available at Hobby Lobby, in the following amounts:
COLOR A (I used “Ivory”): 350 yards
COLOR B (I used “Teal”): 40 yards
Hooks: H (5.0mm) and G (4.25mm)
Gauge: With larger hook, your first 7 rounds should measure 4″ across. (This is only important if you want your basket to match my measurements exactly.)
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker, heavy duty plastic canvas
Terms and Abbreviations: MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) WC (waistcoat stitch; there are lots of tutorials for this on YouTube!) HDC (half double crochet) 3rd Loop (see Special Stitch, below)
Special Stitch: HDC stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. For this pattern the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing away from you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, reach over the two top loops and insert your hook down into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the right side of the pattern.
Notes: (1) IMPORTANT: Most of this pattern is worked seamlessly, but a small portion is worked in joined rounds. Pay attention, and only join, chain and/or turn when specifically instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds when working seamlessly.
(2) To maintain consistency in thickness, you will be carrying yarn along the bottom and outside sections of the basket (indicated in the pattern).
(3) Many designers who use Fair Isle crochet instruct you to complete the entire waistcoat stitch in the secondary color… but I’m not a fan of this technique as I believe it muddies up the design. So for this pattern, whenever you get to COLOR B on the chart, I want you to insert your hook into the stitch and draw up a loop with COLOR B, then yarn over and complete the stitch with COLOR A. When you do it this way, the only part of COLOR B that shows through on the design is the “V”. Nice and clean!
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
To Begin: With larger hook and COLOR A, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 7SC in MC. (6)
Starting here, carry a 2nd strand of COLOR A along your stitches until instructed otherwise.
Round 2: 2WC in each ST around. (14)
Round 3: (2WC in next ST, WC in next ST) around. (21)
Round 4: (WC in next ST, 2WC in next ST, WC in next ST) around. (28)
Round 5: (2WC in next ST, WC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (35)
Round 6: (WC in each of the next 2 STS, 2WC in next ST, WC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (42)
Round 7: (2WC in next ST, WC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (49)
Round 8: (WC in each of the next 3 STS, 2WC in next ST, WC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (56)
Round 9: (2WC in next ST, WC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (63)
Round 10: (WC in each of the next 4 STS, 2WC in next ST, WC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (70)
Round 11: (2WC in next ST, WC in each of the next 9 STS) around. (77)
Round 12: (WC in each of the next 5 STS, 2WC in next ST, WC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (84)
Rounds 13-16: WC in each ST around. (84)
Rounds 17-37: Drop 2nd strand of COLOR A and begin to carry a strand of COLOR B. WC in each ST around, using the chart to guide your color changes. (Lefties, you can follow the chart from L-R. It won’t make a difference in the finished basket.)
Round 38: Drop strand of COLOR B and begin to carry a 2nd strand of COLOR A. WC in each ST around. (84)
Round 39: WC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST into the “V” of the first ST of the round (the same place you insert for a WC stitch). (84)
Round 40: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first HDC. (84)
Drop 2nd strand of COLOR A; you will no longer carry yarn.
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 41: CH1. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Do not join. (84)
Rounds 42-65: SC in each ST around. (84)
To finish: SL ST into the next ST to smooth down the round. Fasten off and weave in ends, then proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas.”
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Adding Plastic Canvas
Cut across your plastic canvas to make strips that are the same height as the inner layer of the basket. Set your basket so that it is completely unfolded. Roll up a strip of canvas and insert it into the bottom of the basket, allowing it to expand up against the walls of the basket. Continue adding as many layers as you want to make it as stiff as you want. Fold the inside layer down over the canvas. Work the fabric until it all lays neat and flat.
If you want, you can sew the inner edge of the fabric to the bottom of the basket to keep everything in place. (Avoid doing this if you want your basket to be machine washable.)
You’re done!
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your baskets on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!
If you’re in the mood for an easy sweater pattern, you really can’t beat the simple construction of a cocoon cardigan sweater.
It’s hard to believe that a basic rectangle can produce such a cozy, relaxed shape, isn’t it? But it’s true! So whether you’re newer to crochet, or you just want a mindless project that will add something beautiful to your wardrobe, give this one a try.
Doesn’t it look like something you’d want to snuggle in, along with a good book, in front of your fireplace?
For reference, my model is wearing the XS/S/M size with a petite modification. The petite modification, which is noted within the pattern, removes 4″ from the overall length. That’s helpful when you’re only 4’9!
About the Yarn
For the body of this pattern, I used Premier Yarns Coffee Shop in the color “Sandstone”. Coffee Shop is a #3 lightweight, acrylic/wool blend with very slow, gradual color changes.
I don’t normally choose multi-colored yarns; I’m more of a solids girl. But as I was shopping the Premier site for a different yarn, this one caught my eye and I threw some into my shopping cart on a whim. I’m glad that I did! It really is gorgeous. It’s very wearable, and very, very lightweight… which is always a nice thing when crocheting a top.
Of course, you don’t have to use a multicolored yarn. This simple pattern will look sophisticated in a solid hue, too.
Yarn Substitutes
I also did a little searching online to find some possible substitutions for Premier Coffee Shop. (Sometimes yarn availability is out of our control, and I get questions about substitutions on every pattern I publish!) Please note that I haven’t tested these; but they are all multi-colored #3 weight yarns that I could see myself trying with the Fireside Cocoon Cardigan.
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
Finished Size Pattern is written for sizes XS/S/M, L/XL/2XL, and 3XL/4XL/5XL (see chart for specific measurements). The cocoon design is a very oversized style with plenty of positive ease, so you should be just fine choosing your regular size. If you are petite in height, consider following the in-pattern instructions for the Petite Modification. It removes 4″ from the overall length.
Yarn COLOR A (body): #3 DK yarn – I used Premier Yarns Coffee Shop in “Sandstone.” COLOR B (collar/edging): #3 DK yarn – I used Yarn Bee Sweet Delight in “Cloudy.”
Hook 5.0mm (H), or whichever hook you need to get an accurate gauge check.
Gauge 14 HDC x 11 rows = 4″
Terms and Abbreviations ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) BLO (back loop only)
Notes (1) Measurements can be easily adjusted. For width, chain any number, and for height, add or subtract any number of rows. (2) Pattern is written for sizes XS/S/M, L/XL/2XL, and 3XL/4XL/5XL. Row numbers and stitch counts are written as follows: XS/S/M (L/XL/2XL, 3XL/4XL/5XL). If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. (3) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch. (4) If using a self-striping yarn, be sure to begin on the same color you are leaving off with on the previous skein.
Edging: Join COLOR B somewhere on the edge of the rectangle and CH1. SC evenly* around the rectangle, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (*When you SC along the row ends, which don’t have top loops, you can start by SCing once in each row end. If it starts to pull or pucker, try crocheting 3SC for every 2 rows, or try a different sized hook. Nice-laying fabric is more important than stitch count here; just be sure to do the same technique on both edges.)
Lay rectangle out flat. (If using a self-striping yarn, lay stripes horizontally.) Bring outside corners in until the top left aligns with the bottom left, and the top right aligns with the bottom right:
Join COLOR B to the inner edge where the two left corners meet and CH1. Hold corners with loops together (so you should have a row of 4 total top loops) and SL ST through all 4 loops, about halfway to the end. Fasten off, weave in ends, and repeat on the right side.
To begin: Join COLOR B to top center of garment; CH1.
Round 1: HDC in BLO evenly around the entire perimeter of the collar area. Join.
Rounds 2-10 (or as many rounds as you want): CH1, turn. In BLO, HDC evenly around. Join.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Don’t forget to share your finished project!
Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to show if off! Be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!
Can I just say… I AM SO HAPPY that cooler weather has arrived!
Being a Michigan girl, we always hear about “seasonal affective disorder” — in other words, living in a state where the sun is hidden by clouds for 5-6 months out of the year can seriously alter your mood in a bad way. But me? At least for the first few months of the fall/winter journey, I come alive.
You can keep your 95 degree days, summer. I’m a sweater-and-fuzzy-socks kind of girl.
So is my model, who is rocking the Harvest Cardigan with jeans and boots.
So if you’re like me, and have already traded your summer clothes for cozier ones, you’re definitely going to want to make this cardigan for yourself.
If you’ve never crocheted invisible pockets (pockets that don’t have a visible seam on the outside of the garment), I’ll teach you how! I even added some cute ribbing to the top of them. Subtle yet stylish.
About the Yarn
For this pattern I used Tweed Indeed, a new yarn from Yarn Bee, in “Golden Tweed.” As soon as I started working with it, I knew that Tweed Indeed would become one of my favorite yarns.
A mix of Acetate (46%), Cotton (46%), Viscose (6%), and Polyester (2%), this yarn feels incredible against the skin. It ran through my hands and my hook just like a quality 100% cotton, but the resulting fabric is especially soft and squishy, and the fibers fill the space between stitches better than any cotton I’ve used. And the tweed! I’ve never been able to find a tweed cotton that I liked until now. I sincerely hope that they expand the line because I can imagine this yarn in so many rich colors. (And don’t let that acetate scare you off! Acetate is a man-made fiber derived from cellulose obtained from wood pulp – a renewable resource that decomposes over time. It’s soft and silky, environmentally friendly, and has no relation to acetone.)
If you want to use the same yarn I did, you’re probably going to want to order it online. Hobby Lobby stores don’t tend to carry yarns in large quantities, but their warehouse does understand the importance of matching dye lots, so you don’t have to worry about getting a mixed bag!
Possible Substitutes
If you want to use a different yarn, here are a few options I thought of (but always do a gauge check!):
Superwash 220 | Cascade Yarns
Basic Stitch (Anti-Pilling or Premium) | Lion Brand
Feels Like Butta | Lion Brand
Jeans | Lion Brand
ZZ Twist | Lion Brand
I Love This Cotton | Yarn Bee
Rustic Romantic | Yarn Bee
Red Heart Soft | Red Heart
Chic Sheep by Marly Bird | Red Heart
Premier Everyday Anti-Pilling Worsted | Yarnspirations
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
Finished Size: Pattern is written for sizes XS – 5XL, with an optional petite modification for length (see chart for specific measurements). It has a slender classic fit, with 2-4″ positive ease. To achieve the intended fit, choose the size that matches your actual bust measurement in the first row of the chart. If you are between sizes, or desire a more oversized fit, you can size up.
Yarn: You’ll need a soft #4 worsted weight yarn. I used Yarn Bee’s Tweed Indeed in the color “Golden Tweed.” Tweed Indeed is a blend of acetate, cotton, viscose and polyester. For a cotton yarn, it has an especially cozy vibe, but this sweater can easily be created with an acrylic or a wool, too. Please refer to the chart to determine how much you’ll need:
Hook: 5.5mm (I), or whichever hook you need to get an accurate gauge check.
Gauge: 15 SC x 20 rows = 4”
You’ll Also Need: 3/4″ (19mm) buttons. I recommend 5-7 buttons for regular sizes, and 5 for petite sizes. For my sample, I used LaMode #02706 (from Joann Fabrics).
Terms and Abbreviations: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) SC+HDC (SC and HDC in the same ST) BLO (back loop only) SC2TOG (single crochet 2 together, or SC Decrease)
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms. (2) Pattern is written for sizes XS-5XL, with counts for sizes S-5XL written in parentheses. Example: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. (3) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
Important Information About Sizing: As I’ve come to learn, designing garment patterns for a large and varied audience is a tricky business. It’s one thing when we can go into a store and try on a top, and instantly know if it falls where we want it to in terms of length; it’s totally another thing to make that top ourselves, only basing its finished silhouette on the images the designer provides. Standard sizing is based on averages, but within those guidelines, there is so much variation; the same cardigan will look very different on a 5’10 woman than it will on a 5’0 woman, even if they are both, for instance, size mediums.
So to help a bit with this, I’ve written this pattern based on the standard measurements provided by the Craft Yarn Council, but I’ve also included recommendations within the pattern for a petite modification, mainly because my model is very petite at just 4’9. In the pattern photos, she is wearing size XS, with a petite modification. The petite modification removes 3.25″ from the overall length. (Of course, this is all assuming you’ve done an accurate gauge check.)
RibbingRow 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Stitch count: 8
Ribbing Rows 2-60 (68, 74, 82, 90, 98, 104, 112, 120): CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS, SC in final ST. Stitch count: 8
We’re now going to begin working down the long edge of the ribbing. Our row count will restart at 1.
Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC down the long edge of the ribbing, putting 1SC in each row end. Stitch count: 60 (68, 74, 82, 90, 98, 104, 112, 120)
Rows 2-8: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 60 (68, 74, 82, 90, 98, 104, 112, 120)
Rows 9-12: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 60 (68, 74, 82, 90, 98, 104, 112, 120)
Rows 13-20: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 60 (68, 74, 82, 90, 98, 104, 112, 120)
Rows 21-92: Repeat Rows 9-20, in order, 6 more times. (For PETITE MODIFICATION, repeat only 5 more times, then proceed to next instruction.)
Row 93: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 60 (68, 74, 82, 90, 98, 104, 112, 120)
Sizes XS, S, M, L ONLY: Fasten off and weave in ends, then proceed to “POCKETS”.
Rows 94-96 (Sizes XL-5XL ONLY): Repeat Row 93. Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each ST across. Stitch count: 18 (18, 18, 20, 20, 20, 22, 22, 22)
Rows 2-22: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 18 (18, 18, 20, 20, 20, 22, 22, 22)
Fasten off and weave in ends. Have pockets ready for Front Panels.
– – – – – – – – – – – – FRONT PANEL – RIGHT SIDE – – – – – – – – – – – –
To Begin: CH9.
RibbingRow 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Stitch count: 8
Ribbing Rows 2-26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56): CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS, SC in final ST. Stitch count: 8
We’re now going to begin working down the long edge of the ribbing. Our row count will restart at 1.
Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC down the long edge of the ribbing, putting 1SC in each row end. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 2-8: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 9-12: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 13-20: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Row 21: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Row 22: Have finished pocket ready. CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 4 (8, 12, 14, 18, 22, 24, 26, 30) STS. Hold pocket behind panel and line up the top right corner with your next available stitch (photo 1). Continue SCing across, inserting hook into top loops of pocket instead of top loops of panel (photo 2). When you have SC’d into each ST across the top of the pocket, SC in each of the remaining 4 STS of the panel (photo 3). Photo 4 shows completed row. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 23-24: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 25-32: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 33-36: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 37-48: Repeat Rows 25-36, in order, 1 more time. (For PETITE MODIFICATION, DO NOT do Rows 37-48; proceed immediately to Row 49 instructions.)
Row 49 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 3 STS remain. SK next ST, SC in each of the final 2 STS. Stitch count: 25 (29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 51, 55)
Row 50: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 2 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 25 (29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 51, 55)
Row 51: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the final 2 STS. Stitch count: 25 (29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 51, 55)
Row 52: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 2 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 25 (29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 51, 55)
Row 53 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SK next ST, SC in final ST. Stitch count: 24 (28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 50, 54)
Rows 54-56: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 24 (28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 50, 54)
Row 57 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SC across until 2 STS remain; SC2TOG final 2 STS. Stitch count: 23 (27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 47, 49, 53)
Rows 58-60: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 23 (27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 47, 49, 53)
Row 61 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SK next ST, SC in final ST. Stitch count: 22 (26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 48, 52)
Rows 62-64: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 22 (26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 48, 52)
Row 65 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 3 STS remain. SK next ST, SC in each of the final 2 STS. Stitch count: 21 (25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 47, 51)
Row 66: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 2 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 21 (25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 47, 51)
Row 67: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the final 2 STS. Stitch count: 21 (25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 47, 51)
Row 68: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 2 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 21 (25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 47, 51)
Row 69 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SC across until 2 STS remain; SC2TOG final 2 STS. Stitch count: 20 (24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 46, 50)
Rows 70-72: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 20 (24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 46, 50)
Row 73 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 3 STS remain. SK next ST, SC in each of the final 2 STS. Stitch count: 19 (23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 45, 49)
Row 74: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 2 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 19 (23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 45, 49)
Row 75: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the final 2 STS. Stitch count: 19 (23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 45, 49)
Row 76: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 2 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 19 (23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 45, 49)
Row 77 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SK next ST, SC in final ST. Stitch count: 18 (22, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 44, 48)
Rows 78-80: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 18 (22, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 44, 48)
Row 81 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SC across until 2 STS remain; SC2TOG final 2 STS. Stitch count: 17 (21, 25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 43, 47)
Rows 82-84: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 17 (21, 25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 43, 47)
Row 85 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SK next ST, SC in final ST. Stitch count: 16 (20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 42, 46)
Rows 86-88: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 16 (20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 42, 46)
Row 89 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 3 STS remain. SK next ST, SC in each of the final 2 STS. Stitch count: 15 (19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 45)
Row 90: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 2 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 15 (19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 45)
Row 91: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the final 2 STS. Stitch count: 15 (19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 45)
Row 92: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 2 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 15 (19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 45)
Row 93: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 15 (19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 45)
Sizes XS, S, M, L ONLY: Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rows 94-96 (Sizes XL-5XL ONLY): Repeat Row 93. Fasten off and weave in all ends.
– – – – – – – – – – – – FRONT PANEL – LEFT SIDE – – – – – – – – – – – –
To Begin: Follow instructions for FRONT PANEL – RIGHT SIDE through Row 21, then proceed with the following instructions.
Row 22: Have finished pocket ready. CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 4 STS. Hold pocket behind panel and line up the top right corner with your next available stitch. Continue SCing across, inserting hook into top loops of pocket instead of top loops of panel. When you have SC’d into each ST across the top of the pocket, SC in each of the remaining 4 (8, 12, 14, 18, 22, 24, 26, 30) STS of the panel. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 23-24: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 25-32: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 33-36: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)
Rows 37-48: Repeat Rows 25-36, in order, 1 more time. (For PETITE MODIFICATION, DO NOT do Rows 37-48; proceed immediately to Row 49 instructions.)
Row 49 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC in next ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 25 (29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 51, 55)
Row 50: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Stitch count: 25 (29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 51, 55)
Row 51: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 25 (29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 51, 55)
Row 52: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Stitch count: 25 (29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 51, 55)
Row 53 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SK first ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 24 (28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 50, 54)
Rows 54-56: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 24 (28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 50, 54)
Row 57 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SC2TOG. SC in each remaining ST. Stitch count: 23 (27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 47, 49, 53)
Rows 58-60: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 23 (27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 47, 49, 53)
Row 61 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SK first ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 22 (26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 48, 52)
Rows 62-64: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 22 (26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 48, 52)
Row 65 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC in next ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 21 (25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 47, 51)
Row 66: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Stitch count: 21 (25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 47, 51)
Row 67: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 21 (25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 47, 51)
Row 68: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Stitch count: 21 (25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 47, 51)
Row 69 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SC2TOG. SC in each remaining ST. Stitch count: 20 (24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 46, 50)
Rows 70-72: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 20 (24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 46, 50)
Row 73 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC in next ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 19 (23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 45, 49)
Row 74: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Stitch count: 19 (23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 45, 49)
Row 75: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 19 (23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 45, 49)
Row 76: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Stitch count: 19 (23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, 45, 49)
Row 77 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SK first ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 18 (22, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 44, 48)
Rows 78-80: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 18 (22, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 44, 48)
Row 81 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SC2TOG. SC in each remaining ST. Stitch count: 17 (21, 25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 43, 47)
Rows 82-84: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 17 (21, 25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 43, 47)
Row 85 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SK first ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 16 (20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 42, 46)
Rows 86-88: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 16 (20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 42, 46)
Row 89 (Decrease Row): CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC in next ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 15 (19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 45)
Row 90: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Stitch count: 15 (19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 45)
Row 91: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. Stitch count: 15 (19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 45)
Row 92: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Stitch count: 15 (19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 45)
Row 93: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Stitch count: 15 (19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 45)
Sizes XS, S, M, L ONLY: Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rows 94-96 (Sizes XL-5XL ONLY): Repeat Row 93. Fasten off and weave in all ends.
RIBBING For help with this technique, please see my tutorial video.
Photo shows Base Row + CH7 from Row 1.
To begin: Join yarn to rightmost unworked stitch on the front edge of the pocket; CH1.
Base Row: SC in each unworked ST across. Stitch count: 18 (18, 18, 20, 20, 20, 22, 22, 22)
Ribbing, Row 1: CH7, turn. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 5 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Base Row, the stitch on which your CH7 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Base Row. (6, plus the two slip stitches along Base Row)
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Base Row, SC in BLO of each of the first 5 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 5 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Base Row. (6, plus the 2 SL STS along Base Row)
Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Base Row, SC in BLO of each of the first 5 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)
Rows 5-18 (18, 18, 20, 20, 20, 22, 22, 22): Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way across Base Row.
Fasten off, leaving a long finishing tail to secure pocket.
SECURING POCKETS
Use long finishing tail to secure pocket to cardigan. Begin by sewing down the side of the ribbing, then transition to the inner pocket and sew it to the inside of the front panel along side, bottom, and 2nd side. (To avoid unseemly stitching on the front of your cardigan, don’t push your yarn needle all the way through to the front when sewing; instead, grab a thread or two from the inside of the cardigan for each stitch.) Finish by transitioning back to the front of the cardigan to sew the second ribbing edge down. Fasten off and weave in ends.
RibbingRow 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Stitch count: 8
Ribbing Rows 2-30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56, 60): CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS, SC in final ST. Stitch count: 8
We’re now going to begin working down the long edge of the ribbing. Our row count will restart at 1.
Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC down the long edge of the ribbing, putting 1SC in each row end. JOIN with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. Stitch count: 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56, 60)
Rows 2-4: CH1, turn. (SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. JOIN. Stitch count: 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56, 60)
Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. JOIN. Stitch count: 31 (35, 39, 43, 47, 51, 53, 57, 61)
Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. JOIN. Stitch count: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 54, 58, 62)
Rows 7-8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. JOIN. Stitch count: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 54, 58, 62)
Rows 9-10: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. JOIN. Stitch count: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 54, 58, 62)
Row 11: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each remaining ST around. JOIN. Stitch count: 33 (37, 41, 45, 49, 53, 55, 59, 63)
Row 12: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each remaining ST around. JOIN. Stitch count: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 56, 60, 64)
Rows 13-16: CH1, turn. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. JOIN. Stitch count: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 56, 60, 64)
Row 17: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. JOIN. Stitch count: 35 (39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 57, 61, 65)
Row 18: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. JOIN. Stitch count: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 58, 62, 66)
Rows 19-20: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. JOIN. Stitch count: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 58, 62, 66)
Rows 21-22: CH1, turn. SC in each St around. JOIN. Stitch count: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 58, 62, 66)
Row 23: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each remaining ST around. JOIN. Stitch count: 37 (41, 45, 49, 53, 57, 59, 63, 67)
Row 24: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each remaining ST around. JOIN. Stitch count: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 60, 64, 68)
Rows 25-28: CH1, turn. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. JOIN. Stitch count: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 60, 64, 68)
Row 29: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. JOIN. Stitch count: 39 (43, 47, 51, 55, 59, 61, 65, 69)
Row 30: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. JOIN. Stitch count: 40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 62, 66, 70)
Rows 31-32: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. JOIN. Stitch count: 40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 62, 66, 70)
Rows 33-34: CH1, turn. SC in each St around. JOIN. Stitch count: 40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 62, 66, 70)
Row 35: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each remaining ST around. JOIN. Stitch count: 41 (45, 49, 53, 57, 61, 63, 67, 71)
Row 36: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each remaining ST around. JOIN. Stitch count: 42 (46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 64, 68, 72)
Rows 37-40: CH1, turn. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. JOIN. Stitch count: 42 (46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 64, 68, 72)
Row 41: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. JOIN. Stitch count: 43 (47, 51, 55, 59, 63, 65, 69, 73)
Row 42: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. JOIN. Stitch count: 44 (48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 66, 70, 74)
Rows 43-44: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. JOIN. Stitch count: 44 (48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 66, 70, 74)
Rows 45-46: CH1, turn. SC in each St around. JOIN. Stitch count: 44 (48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 66, 70, 74)
Row 47: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each remaining ST around. JOIN. Stitch count: 45 (49, 53, 57, 61, 65, 67, 71, 75)
Row 48: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each remaining ST around. JOIN. Stitch count: 46 (50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 68, 72, 76)
Rows 49-52: CH1, turn. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. JOIN. Stitch count: 46 (50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 68, 72, 76)
Row 53: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. JOIN. Stitch count: 47 (51, 55, 59, 63, 67, 69, 73, 77)
Row 54: CH1, turn. SC in first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. JOIN. Stitch count: 48 (52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 70, 74, 78)
Rows 55-56: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. JOIN. Stitch count: 48 (52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 70, 74, 78)
Rows 57-60: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC around until you have 1 ST remaining; 2SC in final ST. Stitch count: 56 (60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 78, 82, 86)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming sleeve to shoulder. Use starting tail to sew first and last rows of ribbing together, then weave in.
First, we’ll use a Slip Stitch to seam the shoulders. Slip Stitches give the shoulder area a strong seam to counteract the weight of the sweater pulling down on them. With wrong sides facingeach other, line up first front panel with back panel and attach yarn at top corner; CH1 and slip stitch into the two loops in the middle of the 4 you have to choose from. Continue to SL ST this way across the width of the shoulder; fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat for the other side.
Sides + Sleeves
For this part, I recommend using the Mattress Stitch; and if you do, you’ll want to seam everything with your cardigan turned right-side-out. (You can find tutorials on Google for this seaming stitch) If you prefer a different seaming stitch, turn your cardigan whichever way is recommended by that stitch.
Seeming arms can feel a little tricky, so here’s the order I do things in to make sure everything is lining up the way it needs to.
Step 1: Cut a long length of yarn and use the mattress stitch to seam up the first side, being sure to keep the rows lined up correctly. Stop when you get about an inch or two below the armpit (use a sleeve for reference). Remove your yarn needle, but don’t weave in ends.
Step 2: Line your sleeve up against the side of the cardigan and use the finishing tail from the sleeve to carefully seam the front layer of fabric to the front panel. You’re working in the loops of the sleeve and the row ends of the cardigan, so you’ll need to improvise a bit. Just make sure that the top of the sleeve meets up with the shoulder seam and the fabric doesn’t pull or bunch. Remove yarn needle.
Step 3: Thread yarn needle with what’s left of the yarn from the side seam and continue up, then seam the back layer of sleeve fabric to the back panel.
Fasten off and weave in ends, then repeat for the other sleeve on the other side.
Lay cardigan flat and rejoin your yarn at the bottom corner of the right panel as shown. CH1 and SC evenly up the panel, across the back, and down the other panel to form a Base Row for the ribbing (just like we did for the pockets). Remove your hook, but don’t let your stitches unravel.
Button Placement
Decide where you want your buttonholes to go by arranging your buttons on the cardigan edge on the right side. (The buttons themselves will later be sewn onto the left side, but right now we’re just figuring out placement for the holes.) When you’re happy with the arrangement, use stitch markers to mark the stitches in the Base Row where you want each hole to be.
For my sample (which, remember, is a petite XS), I used 5 buttons. I put the highest button right where the edge begins to taper, and the lowest one in the middle of the ribbing; I then evenly spaced the 3 remaining in between those two.
Crocheting the Ribbed Collar
Reinsert your hook where you left off and follow these instructions to add ribbing for the collar:
Ribbing, Row 1: CH7, turn. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 5 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Base Row, the stitch on which your CH7 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Base Row. (6, plus the two slip stitches along Base Row)
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Base Row, SC in BLO of each of the first 5 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 5 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Base Row. (6, plus the 2 SL STS along Base Row)
Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Base Row, SC in BLO of each of the first 5 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)
Rows 5 – the end: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way across Base Row, but use the following instructions whenever you come to a buttonhole row (marked by your stitch markers):
Buttonhole Rows: Complete row as normal except replace the middle two stitches with a CH1 space. On the row immediately following, complete as normal except put the 2 middle stitches into the CH1 space.
Fasten off and weave in ends. Sew buttons to the left side panel so that they line up with their corresponding holes.
Step back and take a look at your beautiful work… you’re DONE!
Don’t forget to share your finished project!
Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to show if off! Be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!
Malia is making a quick reappearance this season, in the form of a cute twisted earwarmer!
I always thought this stitch pattern would look great as a twisted earwarmer, and with the weather finally starting to cool off here, it’s time for me to start thinking about how to keep cozy! I always love a good earwarmer / headband, because it does the job with minimal fuss.
If you need a little help with the stitches, check out the tutorial video I made during the original Malia Crochet-Along for the cowl and scarf; just use the numbers in this pattern instead of the ones called for on the video!
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Finished Size: 20″ long (before seaming) x 3.75″ wide
Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge
Yarn: 100 yards of a #4 aran weight. I used Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Okie Wheat” for my sample.
Gauge: To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.
Pattern for Gauge:
CH17. Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16) Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16) Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16) Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16) Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16) Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16) Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16) Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16) Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16) Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)
Terms and Abbreviations: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”) BLO (back loop only) 3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)
Special Stitches:
Large Bean Stitch (LBS) Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)
3rd Loop Only Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) A video tutorial for the stitch pattern is available up in the post, or by clicking here.
(4) To make earwarmer larger or smaller, add or subtract an even number of stitches from the starting row or chain. For reference, if you met gauge, 4 stitches = 1″.
INSTRUCTIONS
Tobegin: CH79.
Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (78)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 76 STS. SC in final ST. (78)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (78)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 38 times. SC in final ST. (78)
Row 5: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (78)
Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 76 STS. SC in final ST. (78)
Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (78)
Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 38 times. SC in final ST. (78)
Row 9: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (78)
Row 10: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 76 STS. SC in final ST. (78)
Row 11: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (78)
Row 12: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 38 times. SC in final ST. (78)
Row 13: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (78)
Row 14: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 76 STS. SC in final ST. (78)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming. Weave in starting tail.
Adding the Twist
Follow the instructions below to seam your earwarmer with a twist. Use the image below to guide you. (They are actually from my Simple Twisted Earwarmer pattern, but the technique is the same.)
1. Thread the long finishing tail through your yarn needle and gently set it aside. Lay ear warmer flat, wrong side up, then gather the edges and layer them together as shown.
2. Thread the yarn needle across the edges, being sure to grab yarn from all four layers.
3. Continue to weave the yarn needle back and forth across the surface of the edges, being sure to grab yarn from all four layers each time.
4. Weave in the tail, then turn earwarmer right side out.
Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!
