Last Fall I created a pillow pattern for Hobby Lobby, and the whole time I was working on the pattern, I knew it needed to be made into a wearable pattern as well. I’ve been having a lot of fun lately with using the most basic stitches in new and interesting ways, and I love the stitch pattern on the Autumn Boho Pillow.
These patterns definitely fall into the “looks-more-complicated-than-it-really-is” category. The reality is, the design on them is achieved purely through creative use of a single crochet stitch. So if you can single crochet, and you’re good at following directions, you can tackle this pattern with no hesitation.
VIDEO TUTORIAL
If you need a little extra help with the pattern, here is a video tutorial, and the free pattern is below!
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
Hook: K (6.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge
Yarn: You’ll need two yarns for this project.
COLOR A: about 375 yards of a #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Window Ivy.” A medium to dark color is best.
COLOR B: about 150 yards of a #3 DK or #4 worsted weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Must Be Merino in “White”. A light, smooth yarn is best.
Gauge: With COLOR A, 16 rows of 13SC = 4″ square
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 3 buttons (1″ – 1-1/8″)
SC SPIKE STITCH – Instead of inserting your hook into the top loops of a stitch, insert it into the bottom of the stitch where the “V” meets. See photo (click to enlarge):
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CHs at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) There is no stitch multiple for this pattern. If you want to make it longer, add more chains at the beginning. If you want to make it wider, complete the repeated section more times than instructed.
(4) Buttons are decorative, but not functional (they are sewn through both layers of the scarf, joining it together permanently).
INSTRUCTIONS
To Begin: With COLOR A, CH205.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (204)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a large loop so yarn doesn’t unravel, then remove hook. (204)
Row 3: Without turning your work, insert hook into the first stitch of Row 2, and attach COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (204)
Row 4A: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (204)
Row 4B: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH1, turn. SC SPIKE STITCH in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (204)
Row 5: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (204)
Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (204)
Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (204)
Row 8: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH3, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (204)
Row 9A: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (204)
Row 9B: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH1, turn. SC SPIKE STITCH in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (204)
Row 10: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (204)
Row 11: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (204)
Rows 12-31: Repeat Rows 7-11, in order, 4 more times. (204)
Row 32: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (204)
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Buttons Lay scarf wrong side up and bring ends together, overlapping by about an inch. Place your buttons evenly along the edge and sew them through both layers to hold the scarf together.
Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #anyainfinityscarf and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!
Last Fall I created a pillow pattern for Hobby Lobby, and the whole time I was working on the pattern, I knew it needed to be made into a wearable pattern as well. I’ve been having a lot of fun lately with using the most basic stitches in new and interesting ways, and I love the stitch pattern on the Autumn Boho Pillow.
These patterns definitely fall into the “looks-more-complicated-than-it-really-is” category. The reality is, the design on them is achieved purely through creative use of a single crochet stitch. So if you can single crochet, and you’re good at following directions, you can tackle this pattern with no hesitation.
VIDEO TUTORIAL
If you need a little extra help with the pattern, here is a video tutorial, and the free pattern is below!
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
Hook: K (6.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge
Yarn: You’ll need two yarns for this project.
COLOR A: about 290 yards of a #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Red Roads.” A medium to dark color is best. If you want to include fringe, add another 25 yards to the total.
COLOR B: about 135 yards of a #3 DK or #4 worsted weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Must Be Merino in “White”. A light, smooth yarn is best.
Gauge: With COLOR A, 16 rows of 13SC = 4″ square
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 3 buttons (1″ – 1-1/8″)
SC SPIKE STITCH – Instead of inserting your hook into the top loops of a stitch, insert it into the bottom of the stitch where the “V” meets. See photo (click to enlarge):
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CHs at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) There is no stitch multiple for this pattern. If you want to make it longer, add more chains at the beginning. If you want to make it wider, complete the repeated section more times than instructed.
(4) Buttons are decorative, but not functional (they are sewn through both layers of the cowl, joining it together permanently).
INSTRUCTIONS
To Begin: With COLOR A, CH129.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (128)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a large loop so yarn doesn’t unravel, then remove hook. (128)
Row 3: Without turning your work, insert hook into the first stitch of Row 2, and attach COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (128)
Row 4A: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (128)
Row 4B: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH1, turn. SC SPIKE STITCH in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (128)
Row 5: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (128)
Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (128)
Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (128)
Row 8: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH3, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (128)
Row 9A: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (128)
Row 9B: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH1, turn. SC SPIKE STITCH in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (128)
Row 10: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (128)
Row 11: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (128)
Rows 12-41: Repeat Rows 7-11, in order, 6 more times. (128)
Row 42: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (128)
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Fringe (optional) Cut about 100 9″ long strands of yarn. (I wrap mine around a 9″ cutting board.) With the right side of the cowl facing up, start at one bottom corner and attach them in groups of 3 strands every 4 stitches along the entire bottom edge of the cowl. (If you don’t know how to attach fringe, see video tutorial for guidance.)
Buttons Lay cowl wrong side up and bring ends together to form a triangle, as shown, making sure the edges line up together. Place your buttons evenly along the edge and sew them through both layers to hold the cowl together. You can also place a small stitch through both layers where the red “x” is to hold the underside of the cowl in place (optional).
Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #anyacowl and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!
Every year, I make my boys a hat for Christmas. They’ve always been various character hats like TMNT, Lion Guard, etc., but at ages 6 and 8, we’ve transitioned out of the Disney Jr phase and into a more mature (ha!) one. Pikachu and Link have replaced Mickey Mouse and Kion, and the boys reach for their simple Walmart slouchies way more often than their Lion Guard hats. (How did they get so old?)
And then there’s little Henry, who doesn’t keep a hat on long enough to make a character hat worth the time or energy. Toddlers, right!?
And then there’s the husband, who has been asking me for a hat for I’m-embarrassed-to-say-how-long. Sorry, babe.
So this year, I went in a different direction and designed a pattern that would work for all of them. It has just the right amount of slouch, and uses a very guy-friendly yarn called Jeans (from Lion Brand). This yarn is soft, heathery, and just looks really good.
Then, I did a little searching online to find some patches for the boys’ hats. The older two are super into the Zelda video game, and I was so pumped to find these Hylian Shield patches online. (Listen to me, throwing around that video game lingo like I actually know what I’m talking about. I don’t.)
I then searched for something Mario-related for little Henry, and found this adorable mushroom patch that I knew he would recognize.
I left my husband’s hat patch-free, but of course, all four of them got Mom’s Yarn + Chai tag sewn on. Gotta represent! (I get my tags from All This Wood on Etsy.)
And for those of you that like to know name origins — I ended up naming this hat the Hyland Slouch because for a while, when my boys would refer to that Hylian Shield, I thought they were saying hy-land instead of hy-lee-an and it just stuck.
Of course, despite its name, this hat isn’t just for the guys. It would make a great girls’ hat, too! (But let’s be honest, girls get a lot more dedicated patterns than guys, right?)
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
Finished Sizes (h x w): 8″ x 8″ (toddler), 9″ x 9″ (child), 10″ x 9.5″ (teen/adult small), 10.5″ x 10″ (adult large). Width is measured at the bottom of the ribbing when the hat is laid flat, but the widest part of the hat (near the middle) will be about .5-1″ more.
Hook: J (6.0 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge
Yarn: Lion Brand Jeans Yarn or similar #4 worsted weight yarn. Approximate amounts as follows: 170 yards (toddler), 210 yards (child), 240 yards (teen/adult small), 280 yards (adult large).
Gauge: 5 increase rounds of 10 HDC = 4.25″ across.
Pattern For Gauge:
Round 1: 10HDC in magic circle; join (10)
Round 2: 2HDC in each ST around; join (20)
Round 3: (2HDC in next, HDC in next) around; join (30)
Round 4: (2HDC in next, HDC in next 2) around; join (40)
Round 5: (2HDC in next, HDC in next 3) around; join (50)
Terms and Abbreviations:
Magic Circle (view my tutorial here) ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) YUSC (yarn under single crochet – see Special Stitches) YUHDC (yarn under half double crochet – see Special Stitches)
Special Stitches:
Yarn Under Single Crochet (YUSC) – this is the same as a regular SC, but with one simple variation. In a regular SC, you insert your hook, yarn over, draw yarn through (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops. With a Yarn Under Single Crochet, you will insert your hook, yarn over, draw yarn through the stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn under, draw through both loops.
Yarn Under Half Double Crochet (YUHDC) – this is the same as a regular HDC, but with one simple variation. In a regular HDC, you yarn over, insert your hook, yarn over, draw yarn through (3 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops. With a Yarn Under Half Double Crochet, you will yarn over, insert your hook, yarn over, draw yarn through the stitch (3 loops on hook), yarn under, draw through all three loops.
A Note About Changing Colors: To keep the written pattern simple, I have written it without including color changes (since it would be different for every size). The hat can be made all one color, with 2 or 3 colors (as in my samples), or really with any number of color changes you wish. To change colors, keep the following tips in mind:
To decide where to put your color changes, first decide how many colors you want, then take the finished height of the size you are making and divide it by the number of colors you want to use. So for instance, if I want to make a children’s hat (9″ tall) with 3 colors, I’ll divide 9 by 3 (9/3=3). I know that each color block will be about 3″, so I’ll keep a ruler handy as I work the pattern and I’ll change colors every 3″.
I feel that the cleanest color change happens between two rounds of YUSC (as opposed to YUHDC), so I always placed my color changes at that part of the pattern, wherever it fell closest to the measurements I was going for.
Additional Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked top-down, in a spiral. Do not join or chain unless instructed.
(3) Pattern is written for toddler size with additional sizes in brackets [child, teen/adult small, adult large]. So, for example, if it says “12 [13, 14, 15]”, the first number is for the toddler size, and the numbers in brackets are child, teen/adult small, and adult large instructions, respectively. If there is only one number, it applies regardless of which size you are making. If you are working from printed instructions, it helps to circle or highlight the numbers you are following before you begin.
INSTRUCTIONS
Note: The first few rounds will produce a VERY wavy circle. As you work further down the hat, the waves will smooth out. This is how we get that cinched look at the top.
Round 2: 2YUSC in each ST around. (24 [26, 28, 30])
Round 3: 3YUSC in each ST around. (72 [78, 84, 90])
Rounds 4-5: YUSC in each ST around. (72 [78, 84, 90])
Rounds 6-8: YUHDC in each ST around. (72 [78, 84, 90])
Rounds 9-13: YUSC in each ST around. (72 [78, 84, 90])
Rounds 14 – ?: Repeat Rounds 6-13, in order (3 rounds YUHDC, 5 rounds YUSC), until hat measures 6.5 [7.5, 8.5, 9]” tall, then continue to “Base Round” (the beginning of the ribbing section). It does not matter which repeat round you end on.
Base Round: YUSC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the first ST of the round. (72 [78, 84, 90])
– – – – – –
Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the Base Round with SL STS as we go. If you need a little extra help, click here for a video tutorial on how to add ribbing at the end of a project.
– – – – – –
CH7.
Row 1: SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 6 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Base Round, the stitch on which your CH7 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Base Round. (6, plus the two slip stitches along Base Round)
The section we just created, built on the CH7, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Base Round, SC in BLO of each of the first 5 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 5 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Base Round. (6, plus the 2 SL STS along Base Round)
Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Base Round, SC in BLO of each of the first 5 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)
Rows 5-72 [78, 84, 90]: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Base Round.
Fasten off and use your tail to sew together the gap between the first and last rows of the ribbing, then weave in your ends.
Done! If you’re sharing your finished hat on social media, be sure to hashtag #hylandmenshat and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Stay warm out there!
A few years ago, my sister saw a photo of another designer’s floor pouf and exclaimed “I want one!” She probably doesn’t even remember this, but I do. At the time, I was a much slower crocheter and the size of that project seemed daunting. But lucky for her, I’m much faster (and, more importantly, more confident) than I was then. And, I drew her name in the family Christmas exchange this year! 🙂
Ready to make your own?
The Supplies
Yarn
You’ll need two different yarns to achieve the mosaic effect of this pattern. First, you’ll need a chunky #5 yarn that will be the base color of your pouf. Just like with my Mosaic Baskets, I used Bernat Maker Home Dec (but with a bigger hook — yay!). I think it’s the perfect yarn for this project, but really any #5 yarn will work.
Second, you’ll need a different colored yarn for the mosaic pattern on the sides of the pouf. You can get so creative here! Whether you choose a solid, variegated, or self-striping yarn, the effect will be awesome. The only rule is that it needs to be thinner than your base yarn so that you can still see the base yarn through the mosaic stitching. I recommend a #3 weight yarn.
Stuffing
We also have to stuff this thing, which is quite large. There are several things you can do — if you like to sew, you can sew an insert and fill it with polyester stuffing (you’ll need a lot to help it hold its shape). You can also use old pillows or an old blanket, but you’ll probably have to work a little harder to get it nice and round.
Or, do what I did, and use a couple rolls of foam! I found this at my craft store by the pillow inserts and knew it would be perfect. I bought two rolls of the 1″ thick foam and had my handyman dad help me slice them in half so that I would have twice as much to work with. I then carefully combined it all into one big roll.
Perfect!
Large wood circle
This part is optional, but I think it’s a great addition. If you want your pouf cover to be removable (for washing), you can purchase a large wooden circle from a craft or hardware store. I found a 15″ circle in the woodworking section of Joann Fabrics, but yours doesn’t have to be 15″ — just make sure it covers a good amount of the bottom of the pouf. (If it’s too small, you’ll have to crochet further toward the middle and the cover will get harder to remove.) I’ll explain in the directions how to adjust the pattern for whatever size you get.
Of course, if you don’t want to add the wooden piece and don’t need it to be washable, just follow the pattern to the end to completely close up the stuffing in crocheted fabric.
For the Visual Learners
This pattern does not have a video tutorial. However, it is basically just a very large version of my Mosaic Basket! If you want to quickly practice the techniques in this pattern before committing to it on such a large scale, I highly recommend that you watch the video tutorial below and maybe even follow along to make the small sized basket. Any confusing parts are bound to become more clear when seen in action!
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
Yarn: I used about 930 yards of Bernat Maker Home Dec (a #5 bulky weight cotton/nylon blend) in “Clay”, and about 400 yards of Yarn Bee Urban Chic (a #3 light acrylic/alpaca blend) in “Juneberry Breeze”.
Hook: K (6.5mm)
Gauge: First 7 rounds of pattern = 4.25″ across
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker, stuffing
Terms and Abbreviations: MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) Spike Stitch (see Special Stitches, below) SC2TOG (single crochet two together)
Special Stitches:
SC Spike Stitch: Instead of inserting your hook into the top loops of the stitch, insert them into its base, then complete an SC. This will wrap your SCs over the top of the SCs from the previous round.
SL ST Spike Stitch: Follow instructions for SC Spike Stitch, but instead of completing an SC, complete a SL ST.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round. Use a stitch marker or bobby pin to mark the first stitch of each round.
(3) When working increase rounds in single crochet (as we do for this pattern), the small bumps created by the increases tend to make the circle look more like a hexagon the more rounds you complete. That’s why for this large base of 32 rounds, I chose to use the Smooth Circle Base method, which is a way of staggering the placement of your increase stitches to keep it all circular. If you need help with this method beyond the written instructions, you can use my video tutorial for the Mosaic Basket in which I go into great detail about how it is done. If you prefer to not use the method, a standard 32-round increase will work fine and the hexagon will work back into a smooth circle eventually after you get past the increasing part of the pattern.
(4) Because we utilize the SC Spike Stitch for entire rounds throughout the pattern, we will be referring to those rounds as an extension of the SC rounds they are being worked into. For example, if Round 32 is a round of SC, then the very next round which places spike stitches on top of those SCs will be referred to as Round 32B. This just makes for easier counting.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Part 1: Increasing
Note: What follows is the Smooth Circle Base method of increasing. Please refer to Note #3 for an explanation.
To Begin: Make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)
Round 2: 2SC in each ST around. (12)
Round 3: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)
Round 4: (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (24)
Round 5: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (30)
Round 6: (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)
Round 7: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (42)
Round 8: (SC in each of the next 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (48)
Round 9: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (54)
Round 10: (SC in each of the next 4 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (60)
Round 11: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around. (66)
Round 12: (SC in each of the next 5 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (72)
Round 13: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 11 STS) around. (78)
Round 14: (SC in each of the next 6 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) around. (84)
Round 15: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 13 STS) around. (90)
Round 16: (SC in each of the next 7 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (96)
Round 17: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 15 STS) around. (102)
Round 18: (SC in each of the next 8 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 8 STS) around. (108)
Round 19: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 17 STS) around. (114)
Round 20: (SC in each of the next 9 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around. (120)
Round 21: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 19 STS) around. (126)
Round 22: (SC in each of the next 10 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 10 STS) around. (132)
Round 23: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 21 STS) around. (138)
Round 24: (SC in each of the next 11 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 11 STS) around. (144)
Round 25: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 23 STS) around. (150)
Round 26: (SC in each of the next 12 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 12 STS) around. (156)
Round 27: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 25 STS) around. (162)
Round 28: (SC in each of the next 13 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 13 STS) around. (168)
Round 29: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 27 STS) around. (174)
Round 30: (SC in each of the next 14 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 14 STS) around. (180)
Round 31: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 29 STS) around. (186)
Round 32: (SC in each of the next 15 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 15 STS) around. (192)
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Part 2: Body of Pouf
Rounds 33-36: SC in each ST around. (192)
Round 37: SC in each ST around. Pull up a loop on your hook a couple inches tall so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (192)
Round 37B: Insert hook into top loops of next ST; attach thinner yarn and CH1; SC in same ST. SC Spike Stitch into next ST and each remaining ST. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (192)
Round 38: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each ST around (you’re working in the top loops of the SC Spike Stitches from the previous round). Remove hook. (192)
Round 38B: Reinsert hook into loop from thinner yarn. SC Spike Stitch in each ST around. Remove hook. (192)
Rounds 39-67B: Repeat Rounds 38-38B. (192)
If you’re using rolled foam as your stuffing, you should insert it now to see how high the fabric will reach up the side. Be sure to work the fabric a bit and stretch it up — you don’t want to pull it crazy tight, but the more snug the fabric fits over the stuffing, the better the whole thing will look in the end. If you’re confident that the fabric will stretch up to the top of the insert, that’s great. If not, you can add more rounds before moving on. If you think you need to take some rounds away to make sure it all stays tight and snug, do that.
Round 68: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each of the next 189 STS (3 STS remain). SL ST in each of the remaining 3 STS. Remove hook. (192)
Round 68B: Reinsert hook into loop from thinner yarn. SC Spike Stitch in each of the next 189 STS (3 STS remain). SL ST Spike Stitch in each of the remaining 3 STS. Remove hook. (192)
Round 69: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn; fasten off thinner yarn. SC in each ST around. (192)
Take a moment to weave in all ends before proceeding to “Decreasing”.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Part 3: Decreasing
Important note: Below you will find the complete pattern for decreasing back down to the handful of stitches you started with. If you don’t plan to use a wooden insert at the bottom, follow these instructions to the end. If you do plan to use an insert, simply follow the instructions until your crocheted fabric will cover the wooden insert by about 2-3 inches, then proceed to “Finishing with a wooden insert”, below.
Round 70: (SC in each of the next 15 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 15 STS) around. (186)
Round 71: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 29 STS) around. (180)
Round 72: (SC in each of the next 14 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 14 STS) around. (174)
Round 73: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 27 STS) around. (168)
Round 74: (SC in each of the next 13 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 13 STS) around. (162)
Round 75: (SC2TOaG, SC in each of the next 25 STS) around. (156)
Round 76: (SC in each of the next 12 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 12 STS) around. (150)
Round 77: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 23 STS) around. (144)
Round 78: (SC in each of the next 11 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 11 STS) around. (138)
Round 79: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 21 STS) around. (132)
Round 80: (SC in each of the next 10 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 10 STS) around. (126)
Round 81: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 19 STS) around. (120)
Round 82: (SC in each of the next 9 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around. (114)
Round 83: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 17 STS) around. (108)
Round 84: (SC in each of the next 8 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 8 STS) around. (102)
Round 85: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 15 STS) around. (96)
Round 86: (SC in each of the next 7 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (90)
Round 87: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 13 STS) around. (84)
Round 88: (SC in each of the next 6 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 6 STS) around. (78)
Round 89: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 11 STS) around. (72)
Round 90: (SC in each of the next 5 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (66)
Round 91: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around. (60)
Round 92: (SC in each of the next 4 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (54)
Round 93: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (48)
Round 94: (SC in each of the next 3 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (42)
Round 95: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (36)
Round 96: (SC in each of the next 2 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (30)
Round 97: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (24)
Round 98: (SC in next ST, SC2TOG, SC in next ST) around. (18)
Round 99: (SC2TOG, SC in next ST) around. (12)
To Finish: Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread it through your yarn needle and weave it in and out of the 12 stitches from the previous round, then pull it tight and weave in.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Finishing with a Wooden Insert
After you’ve completed a sufficient number of decrease rounds, fasten off and weave in the end. Cut a long length of Bernat Maker Home Dec (or your chosen chunky yarn) and thread it through a yarn needle. Weave it in and out of each stitch of the last completed round. Insert your wooden circle, then take each end of the threaded yarn and pull tight (but don’t break it!) and tie a small bow.
You’re done!
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your pouf on social media, be sure to use hashtag #mosaicfloorpouf and tag me @yarnandchai.design!
When the weather starts to get cold here in Michigan, one of my favorite accessories to help beat the chill is an earwarmer. I love that I can still wear my hair piled up all messy on the top of my head — or, if it’s a good hair day, down and wavy — because a cozy earwarmer will look great either way.
This earwarmer is easy and quick. Don’t let the #3 DK weight yarn fool you; it will work up fast, and still feel light on your head. The seam is conveniently hidden underneath the button, and although I am totally ok with a necessary seam, I always get excited when I find a good hiding place for it!
Visual Learner?
You can follow along with me with this tutorial video, regardless of what size you are making! I put the pattern instructions right on screen so you can relax and go at your own pace. Be sure to subscribe, too!
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Finished Sizes: 17″ x 3.5″ (toddler), 18″ x 4″ (child), 20″ x 4.5″ (teen), 21″ x 4.5″ (adult)
Hook: H (5.0 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge
Yarn: Yarn Bee Sweet Delight, a #3 weight yarn, in the following amounts: 80 yds (toddler), 95 yds (child), 115 yds (teen), 120 yds (adult). Colors used in samples are Toy Elephant and Toy Elephant Marled.
Gauge: 17 HDC x 12 rows = 4″ square
You’ll also need: 7/8″ button, and a yarn needle that can fit through it
Terms and Abbreviations: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) SC+HDC (complete a full single crochet and a full half double crochet in the same stitch) 3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitch”)
Special Stitch:
3rd Loop Only Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rounds, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rounds do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) To resize earwarmer, your starting chain can be any odd number.
(4) Pattern is written for toddler size with additional sizes in brackets [child, teen, adult]. So, for example, if it says “CH71 [75, 85, 89]”, the first number is for the toddler size, and the numbers in brackets are child, teen, and adult instructions, respectively. If you are working from printed instructions, it helps to circle or highlight the numbers you are following before you begin.
(5) Knowing where to place your first stitch can be tricky when working in joined rounds. Usually, it doesn’t matter as long as you’re consistent, but for this pattern, it does matter… especially from Round 4 on! So, here is an image to help you identify where to put your first stitch. Because Round 4 instructs you to skip the first stitch, you will put your SC+HDC combo in the stitch marked as the 2nd stitch (which is also easy to find thanks to the spaces created by the SC+HDC combos from Round 3).
INSTRUCTIONS
To begin: CH71 [75, 85, 89].
Round 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Bring ends together, without twisting, and join to the top of the first ST with a SL ST. (70 [74, 84, 88])
Round 2: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Join to the top of the first ST with a SL ST. (70 [74, 84, 88])
Rounds 3-14 [3-16, 3-18, 3-18]: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first ST with a SL ST. (70 [74, 84, 88])
Round 15 [17, 19, 19]: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first ST with a SL ST. (70 [74, 84, 88])
Round 16 [18, 20, 20]: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Join to the top of the first ST with a SL ST. (70 [74, 84, 88])
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for cinching. Use yarn needle and starting tail to sew the small gap between the first and last stitches of Round 1 closed, then weave in that tail only.
Cinching
1. Thread the long finishing tail through your yarn needle and gently set it aside. Gather the seamed section of the headband, and fold in half so that the fold is facing you.
2. Holding on to the fold with one hand, use your other hand to pinch the upper half in half again. The top edge of the earwarmer should be facing down. Grasp the fold together with the first fold, then repeat with the bottom section. When you’re finished, you should be pinching three folds together, with both the top and bottom edges of the earwarmer facing down.
3. Run your yarn needle through all three sections of gathered material. The closer you get to the surface, the better your cinch will look; so I run mine right under just a couple strands of each fold.
4. Wrap the yarn around the underside of the cinch, then through the sections again. Do this a few times to secure the cinch, then thread the needle up through the 1st hole of the button and back down through the 2nd hole, position it on the cinch, and wrap yarn around to the underside to tie off. (If your button has four holes, complete the first two, wrap yarn around the bottom, then come back and complete the last two before tying off.) Weave in the tail.
Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #hopeearwarmer and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Stay warm out there!
I am so excited to team up with Hobby Lobby to bring you my newest pattern – the Autumn Boho Pillow!
I’ve been playing around with different ways to do single crochet stitches to make unique designs, so when Hobby Lobby asked me to make a fun fall pattern with some of their new Yarn Bee yarn, I knew right away that I wanted to incorporate the stitches into a cozy fall pillow! I’m really loving the boho style right now – I’ve always loved tassels and fur – and this pillow incorporates all of that to produce a piece of fresh, modern fall decor.
Let’s Talk About This Yarn!
I don’t know if you’ve noticed, but over the last few months, Hobby Lobby has been adding a ton of new yarns to their Yarn Bee line. One of those yarns is called Breathe Deep, and I’m not sure what I’m more drawn to — that name, or the crazy soft yarn it represents. Breathe Deep is an airy worsted weight yarn that’s available in a range of soft, modern shades. The strands have a rustic look to them, perfect for fall, and the polyester fibers are squishy and soft. It was a dream to work with — there was very little splitting, the stitches were easy to see, and the fibers didn’t irritate my sensitive skin.
In the pattern, I used the colors “Sage”, “Ivory”, and “Brown Sugar.” Sounds like autumn to me!
The pillow is edged in Fur-Ever Style, another Yarn Bee Yarn. Even if you’re intimidated by fur yarns, give it a try! This is an easy project to practice on because we only use a little, but it adds such a cozy finishing touch.
My Second Sample
I also worked up a second sample in one of my all-time favorite yarns, Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic. This was totally a personal project and I had no intention of showing it here, but it turned out so pretty that I had to photograph it. For this pillow, I used “Red Roads” and “Okie Wheat” for the deep red and mustard colors, as well as Yarn Bee’s Must Be Merino in “Ivory” for the detailing and tassels. (Must Be Merino is actually a #3 weight yarn, but in this specific case, it doesn’t matter all that much. I grabbed it because I wanted a super smooth yarn to contrast against the heathered look of the Rustic Romantic.) I did chain 4 less in the beginning because the Rustic Romantic is a little thicker than the Breathe Deep yarn, but this pattern doesn’t have a stitch multiple, so it’s easy to adapt!
Full Video Tutorial
If you’re the type who prefers to learn by watching (I know I am!), I have a complete, start-to-finish video tutorial for you right here! Or, scroll down to view the written pattern.
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AUTUMN BOHO PILLOW
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: Fits a standard 12″x12″ pillow insert (easily adapted to other sizes)
Hook: 4.5mm (US-7 / G) hook
Yarn: This pattern was written for Breathe Deep, a super-soft #4 worsted weight polyester yarn by Yarn Bee (a Hobby Lobby brand), and edged in Fur-Ever Style, a #4 worsted weight nylon yarn (also by Yarn Bee). Amounts used are as follows:
Breathe Deep Yarn: COLOR A (“Sage”): 185 yds
COLOR B (“Ivory”): 160 yds
COLOR C (“Brown Sugar”): 65 yds
Fur-Ever Style Yarn: FUR EDGING(“Ivory”): 65 yds
Gauge: 9SC x 11 rows = 2″ square
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 12″ square pillow insert
Terms and Abbreviations: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) SC SPIKE STITCH (single crochet spike stitch; see “Special Stitch”, below)
Special Stitch:
SC SPIKE STITCH – Instead of inserting your hook into the top loops of a stitch, insert it into the bottom of the stitch where the “V” meets. See photo (click to enlarge):
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s and CH2s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) There is no stitch multiple for this pattern. If you want to make it wider, add more chains at the beginning. If you want to make it taller, complete the repeated section more times than instructed, switching from COLOR A to COLOR C about 2/3 – 3/4 way up the pillow cover. (Be sure to chain an even number in the beginning in order to have an odd numbered stitch count, so that you can use the stitch in the very center of the pillow to place your first tassel.)
INSTRUCTIONS (make 2)
To begin: With COLOR A, CH50.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (49)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (49)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 4: Without turning your work, insert hook into the first stitch of Row 3, and attach COLOR B (Ivory). CH1. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 5A: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 5B: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH1, turn. SC SPIKE STITCH in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 6: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (49)
Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (49)
Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 9: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH2, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 10A: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 10B: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH1, turn. SC SPIKE STITCH in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 11: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (49)
Row 12: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (49)
Rows 13-47: Repeat Rows 8-12, 7 times. (49)
Switch to COLOR C; fasten off COLOR A.
Rows 48-62: Repeat Rows 8-12, 3 times, using COLOR C in place of COLOR A. (49)
At this point, measure the height of your pillow cover. We want to get it to right about 11.5″, so if you need to do a row or two more, simply continue on with the repeat. If you need to remove a row or two, that’s ok, too. The measurement is more important than the number of rows completed.
Fasten off and weave all ends into the wrong side of the pillow cover.
Edging
With right side facing you, attach COLOR B in top right stitch and CH1. SC around perimeter of square, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Tassels
With COLOR B, use the following steps to make 7 2″ tassels:
With COLOR B, cut 2 8″ lengths of yarn; set aside.
Wrap COLOR B around a 2″ tall piece of cardstock (you can use a credit card) 20 times; fasten off.
Slip one 8″ length of yarn under the strands and pull it up to the top of the card; tie a tight double knot.
Carefully remove yarn from card and cut at the opposite end from the tied-off part.
Take the other 8″ length of yarn and wrap it around the yarn, about 1/2″ below the top knot, and tie a tight double knot.
Thread into a yarn needle each end of the 2nd tie-off yarn (one at a time) and insert the needle just above the knot and down into the middle of the yarn to hide the knot.
Trim yarn at the bottom.
Attach tassel to pillow by using a yarn needle to insert each top strand around a single stitch; double knot on the opposite side and trim the ends. (This will be hidden inside the pillow cover.)
Space all 7 tassels across the pillow evenly and attach them all. Additionally, you can use a small dot of fabric glue under the ball section of the tassel to hold it in place on the pillow; use a pin to hold it where you want it while it dries overnight.
Seaming
Hold both squares together with wrong sides facing each other and right sides facing out. Attach Fur-Ever Style yarn in one corner; CH1 and SC SPIKE STITCH around 3 sides of the pillow, being sure to put 3SC SPIKE STITCHES in the same places you put the 3 SC stitches when you edged each piece individually. Stuff your pillow insert into the cover, then continue the rest of the way around the pillow until it is completely enclosed. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC, then CH1, turn, and repeat in the opposite direction (still working the spike stitches for a nice, thick ending). Join, fasten off, and weave in ends.
Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #autumnbohopillow and tag me @yarnandchai.design!
I had a good amount of Bernat Maker Home Dec yarn leftover after finishing up the Market Tote Bag pattern, so I started brainstorming what to use it for — and came up with these adorable mini baskets!
There’s no doubt that the mini bean stitch is the perfect stitch for a basket, and those colors are to die for. But do you want to know what really sets these baskets apart?
The reinforced sides!
That’s right. As I was working up my first flimsy basket, I kept thinking, there has to be a better way to do this. I was already using a much smaller hook than is recommended for the yarn, and even though it was producing a nice tight fabric, it just wasn’t stiff. The walls of the basket would lose their shape at the slightest touch. Once I got to the top, I thought to myself… maybe I should double layer the sides. So I did, and it helped a little, but it was still missing something. Finally it dawned on me that I had a stack of plastic canvas in my stash. I cut out some strips of it and lined them overlapping inside the basket, then folded the second layer down over it. Perfect!
They still aren’t totally indestructible, but the plastic canvas helps them hold their circular shape, and even the large basket can be picked up with one hand without drooping. It takes a little extra time to crochet up a double layer, but I think you will be so impressed with the finished product that it will be totally worth it.
These nesting baskets come in 3″, 4.5″, and 7″ widths, but once you’ve made one, resizing the pattern to fit your needs should be pretty easy to figure out.
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Yarn: I used Bernat Maker Home Dec, a #5 bulky weight cotton/nylon blend, in colors “Cream” and “Clay.” Amounts for each basket size are listed within their individual patterns.
Hooks: H (5.0mm) and G (4.25mm)
Gauge: Your first 5 rounds should measure 2.5″ across.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker, plastic canvas
Terms and Abbreviations: MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) MBS (mini bean stitch – see Special Stitches, below) 3rd Loop (see Special Stitches, below)
Special Stitches:
Mini Bean Stitch (MBS): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through (2 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over, pull through (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 4 loops, chain 1 to close stitch. (Please note that this CH1 does count as a stitch in the final stitch counts of each round; so each MBS you complete will count for 2 stitches.)
3rd Loop: Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. For this pattern the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern. Also called Camel Stitch or RibHDC.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) IMPORTANT: Part of this pattern is worked in joined rounds, and part of it is worked seamlessly. Pay attention, and only join, chain and/or turn when specifically instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds when working seamlessly.
(3) The finished size of each basket is listed on its individual pattern.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
SMALL BASKET
Yardage: 30 yards Finished Size: 3″ wide x 1.5″ tall
To Begin: With larger hook, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (6)
Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (12)
Round 3: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (18)
Round 4: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (24)
Round 5: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. DO NOT JOIN. (30)
Rounds 6-8: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (30, or 15 beans)
Round 9: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round to join. (30, or 15 beans)
Round 10: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (30)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 11: CH1, TURN. SC in 3rd loops of each ST around. DO NOT JOIN. (30)
Rounds 12-15: SC in each ST around. DO NOT JOIN. (30)
QUICK CHECK: Remove your hook and fold the top half of the basket down into the center to create a double-layered side. The round of 3rd loops we did earlier (which looks like a braid around the edge) should be at the top of the basket, and down inside, the last round of single crochets should be touching the floor of the basket but not crowding it. You may need to add or remove a round or two of single crochets to achieve this.
To finish: Unfold your basket, reinsert your hook into the last stitch, and SL ST to the first ST of the final round. Fasten off and weave in ends. Proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas” (included at the end of the pattern).
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
MEDIUM BASKET
Yardage: 80 yards Finished Size: 4.5″ wide x 2.25″ tall
To Begin: With larger hook, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (6)
Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (12)
Round 3: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (18)
Round 4: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (24)
Round 5: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (30)
Round 6: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (36)
Round 7: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (42)
Round 8: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) around. DO NOT JOIN. (48)
Rounds 9-14: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (48, or 24 beans)
Round 15: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round to join. (48, or 24 beans)
Round 16: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (48)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 17: CH1, TURN. SC in 3rd loops of each ST around. DO NOT JOIN. (48)
Rounds 18-26: SC in each ST around. DO NOT JOIN. (48)
QUICK CHECK: Remove your hook and fold the top half of the basket down into the center to create a double-layered side. The round of 3rd loops we did earlier (which looks like a braid around the edge) should be at the top of the basket, and down inside, the last round of single crochets should be touching the floor of the basket but not crowding it. You may need to add or remove a round or two of single crochets to achieve this.
To finish: Unfold your basket, reinsert your hook into the last stitch, and SL ST to the first ST of the final round. Fasten off and weave in ends. Proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas” (included at the end of the pattern).
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
LARGE BASKET
Yardage: 160 yards Finished Size: 7″ wide x 3″ tall
To Begin: With larger hook, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (6)
Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (12)
Round 3: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (18)
Round 4: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (24)
Round 5: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (30)
Round 6: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (36)
Round 7: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (42)
Round 8: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (48)
Round 9: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (54)
Round 10: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 8 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (60)
Round 11: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Round 12: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 10 STS) around. DO NOT JOIN. (72)
Rounds 13-21: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (72, or 36 beans)
Round 22: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round to join. (72, or 36 beans)
Round 23: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (72)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 24: CH1, TURN. SC in 3rd loops of each ST around. DO NOT JOIN. (72)
Rounds 25-35: SC in each ST around. DO NOT JOIN. (72)
QUICK CHECK: Remove your hook and fold the top half of the basket down into the center to create a double-layered side. The round of 3rd loops we did earlier (which looks like a braid around the edge) should be at the top of the basket, and down inside, the last round of single crochets should be touching the floor of the basket but not crowding it. You may need to add or remove a round or two of single crochets to achieve this.
To finish: Unfold your basket, reinsert your hook into the last stitch, and SL ST to the first ST of the final round. Fasten off and weave in ends. Proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas.”
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Adding Plastic Canvas
Cut two pieces of plastic canvas that are just slightly shorter than the single crocheted portion of your basket (the part we are folding over). The length of the plastic canvas isn’t important; just cut across the entire sheet. Roll the pieces of canvas up together into a small tube and place it down inside the basket. Work with it so that it is up against the walls of the basket, and touching the floor of the basket. Then, fold the single crocheted portion of the basket into the middle, over the canvas, so that the canvas is hidden inside. Use your fingers to smooth down any wavy areas until the middle of the basket is smooth and round.
I’ve been on a basket kick lately, and while I was working on the pattern for the Mini Nesting Baskets, I decided that a new place for my favorite crochet hooks would be a great way to utilize the techniques I was exploring – mainly, the use of plastic canvas to make a strong, sturdy basket! So I whipped up this cute little basket for my desk and now I’m wondering why I didn’t make my own hook holder a long time ago.
Of course, there could be many applications for this little guy. Pens and pencils, candy, buttons… it could hold just about any little objects you can think of.
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Yarn: I used about 110 yards of Bernat Maker Home Dec, a #5 bulky weight cotton/nylon blend, in “Clay.”
Hooks: H (5.0mm) and G (4.25mm)
Gauge: Your first 5 rounds should measure 2.5″ across.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker, plastic canvas
Terms and Abbreviations: MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) MBS (mini bean stitch – see Special Stitches, below) 3rd Loop (see Special Stitches, below)
Special Stitches:
Mini Bean Stitch (MBS): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through (2 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over, pull through (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 4 loops, chain 1 to close stitch. (Please note that this CH1 does count as a stitch in the final stitch counts of each round; so each MBS you complete will count for 2 stitches.)
3rd Loop: Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. For this pattern the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern. Also called Camel Stitch or RibHDC.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) IMPORTANT: Part of this pattern is worked in joined rounds, and part of it is worked seamlessly. Pay attention, and only join, chain and/or turn when specifically instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds when working seamlessly.
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INSTRUCTIONS
To Begin: With larger hook, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (6)
Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (12)
Round 3: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (18)
Round 4: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (24)
Round 5: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (30)
Round 6: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (36)
Round 7: CH1. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. DO NOT JOIN. (42)
Rounds 8-19: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (42, or 21 beans)
Round 20: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round to join. (42, or 21 beans)
Round 21: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (42)
Round 22: CH1, TURN. SC in 3rd loops of each ST around. DO NOT JOIN. (42)
Switch to smaller hook.
Rounds 23-39: SC in each ST around. DO NOT JOIN. (42)
QUICK CHECK: Remove your hook and fold the top half of the basket down into the center to create a double-layered side. The round of 3rd loops we did earlier (which looks like a braid around the edge) should be at the top of the basket, and down inside, the last round of single crochets should be touching the floor of the basket but not crowding it. You may need to add or remove a round or two of single crochets to achieve this.
To finish: Unfold your basket, reinsert your hook into the last stitch, and SL ST to the first ST of the final round. Fasten off and weave in ends.
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Adding Plastic Canvas
Cut across your plastic canvas to make strips that are the same height as the inner layer of the basket. Set your basket so that it is completely unfolded. Roll up a strip of canvas and insert it into the bottom of the basket, allowing it to expand up against the walls of the basket. Continue adding as many layers as you want to make it as stiff as you want. Fold the inside layer down over the canvas. Work the fabric until it all lays neat and flat.
Here’s a quick tutorial video that explains what plastic canvas is, where to buy it, and how to use it in Yarn + Chai basket patterns:
I am so excited about this pattern! I am totally in love with the effect on the outside of these baskets. I just feel like the finished product is so unique and I love how the two different yarn colors come together to form what reminds me of a piece of mosaic art. And the best part is, it’s so easy to do!
Choosing Your Yarn
The first thing you need to do is decide what yarns to use. I highly recommend starting with a neutral-colored bulky yarn, such as white, ivory, or gray. I used Bernat Maker Home Dec in “Cream” as the base for my baskets in the sample photos. Next, you need to choose a worsted weight yarn that will work well with your base color… and this is where you get to go a little crazy, because there are so many options! In the main photo above, I used one of my favorite colorways, Urban Chic in “Juneberry Breeze”. In the baskets pictured below, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in Aqua Blue Gradient:
And here it is in the medium size with Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton in “Pink/Teal/Orange” (that’s one colorway):
If you go with a color-changing yarn like I did, make sure the color changes aren’t toooooooo long. I love a nice gradual change, but as you can see on the main photos (with the Aqua Blue Gradient yarn), the yarn didn’t really change throughout the entire large-sized basket. I actually had to pull out quite a bit of yarn to get to a significant color change so that the smaller matching baskets wouldn’t be exactly the same.
About Those Cute Leather Tags
Those adorable tags on my baskets aren’t actually leather at all – they’re cork! I had mine printed by All This Wood (affiliate link). They always do a great job for me. If you purchase tags of your own through this link, you won’t pay any extra, but I’ll get a small percentage of the sale. My affiliate links are just one of the ways I am able to keep releasing free patterns, so I am always incredibly appreciative of anyone who uses them!
Video Tutorial
As simple as this pattern really is, I knew as I was typing it up that it wasn’t going to sound as simple on the page. Sometimes it’s easier to just watch someone else make it, so I’ve put together a video tutorial to assist you throughout. And like all Yarn + Chai tutorials, the pattern is written in full right on the screen so that you can follow along. I get tons of compliments about this tutorial feature, so it’s definitely worth the extra effort it takes to include it!
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
Yarn: I used Bernat Maker Home Dec (a #5 bulky weight cotton/nylon blend) in “Cream”, and Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn (a #4 worsted weight acrylic) in “Aqua Blue”. Yarn amounts are listed with individual pattern sizes.
Hooks: H (5.0mm) and G (4.25mm)
Gauge: Your first 5 rounds should measure 2.5″ across.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker, plastic canvas
Terms and Abbreviations: MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) SC Spike Stitch (see Special Stitches, below) 3rd Loop (see Special Stitches, below)
Special Stitches:
SC Spike Stitch: Instead of inserting your hook into the top loops of the stitch, insert them into its base, then complete an SC. This will wrap your SCs over the top of the SCs from the previous round.
SL ST Spike Stitch: Follow instructions for SC Spike Stitch, but instead of completing an SC, complete a SL ST.
3rd Loop: Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. For this pattern the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing away from you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, reach over the two top loops and insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the right side of the pattern. Also called Camel Stitch or RibHDC.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) IMPORTANT: Most of this pattern is worked seamlessly, but a small portion is worked in joined rounds. Pay attention, and only join, chain and/or turn when specifically instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds when working seamlessly.
(3) The finished size of each basket is listed on its individual pattern.
(4) Because we utilize the SC Spike Stitch for entire rounds throughout the pattern, we will be referring to those rounds as an extension of the SC rounds they are being worked into. For example, if Round 15 is a round of SC, then the very next round which places spike stitches on top of those SCs will be referred to as Round 15B. This just makes for easier counting.
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SMALL BASKET
Yardage: 50 yards bulky, 20 yards worsted or DK Finished Size: 3.5″ wide x 2.25″ tall
To Begin: With larger hook and bulky yarn, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)
Round 2: 2SC in each ST around. (12)
Round 3: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)
Round 4: (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (24)
Round 5: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (30)
Round 6: (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)
Round 7: SC in each ST around. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (36)
Round 7B: Insert hook into top loops of next ST; attach worsted weight yarn and CH1; SC in same ST. SC Spike Stitch into next ST and each remaining ST. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (36)
Round 8: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each ST around (you’re working in the top loops of the SC Spike Stitches from the previous round). Remove hook. (36)
Round 8B: Reinsert hook into loop from worsted yarn. SC Spike Stitch in each ST around. Remove hook. (36)
Rounds 9-11B: Repeat Rounds 8-8B. (36)
Round 12: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each of the next 34 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. Remove hook. (36)
Round 12B: Reinsert hook into loop from worsted yarn. SC Spike Stitch into each of the next 34 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST Spike Stitch into each of the remaining 2 STS. Remove hook. (36)
Fasten off thinner yarn – you won’t need it anymore.
Round 13: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. Join with a SL ST to the next ST (the first ST of the previous round). CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first HDC. (36)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 14: CH1. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Do not join. (36)
Rounds 15-21: SC in each ST around. (36)
Round 22: SC in each of the next 34 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (36)
Fasten off and weave in ends. Proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas” (after instructions for large basket).
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MEDIUM BASKET
Yardage: 95 yards bulky, 40 yards worsted or DK Finished Size: 5″ wide x 2.75″ tall
To Begin: With larger hook and bulky yarn, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)
Round 2: 2SC in each ST around. (12)
Round 3: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)
Round 4: (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (24)
Round 5: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (30)
Round 6: (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)
Round 7: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (42)
Round 8: (SC in each of the next 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (48)
Round 9: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (54)
Round 10: SC in each ST around. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (54)
Round 10B: Insert hook into top loops of next ST; attach worsted weight yarn and CH1; SC in same ST. SC Spike Stitch into next ST and each remaining ST. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (54)
Round 11: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each ST around (you’re working in the top loops of the SC Spike Stitches from the previous round). Remove hook. (54)
Round 11B: Reinsert hook into loop from worsted yarn. SC Spike Stitch in each ST around. Remove hook. (54)
Rounds 12-16B: Repeat Rounds 11-11B. (54)
Round 17: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each of the next 52 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. Remove hook. (54)
Round 17B: Reinsert hook into loop from worsted yarn. SC Spike Stitch into each of the next 52 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST Spike Stitch into each of the remaining 2 STS. Remove hook. (54)
Fasten off worsted yarn – you won’t need it anymore.
Round 18: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. Join with a SL ST to the next ST (the first ST of the previous round). CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first HDC. (54)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 19: CH1. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Do not join. (54)
Rounds 20-29: SC in each ST around. (54)
Round 30: SC in each of the next 52 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (54)
Fasten off and weave in ends. Proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas” (after instructions for large basket).
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LARGE BASKET
Yardage: 145 yards bulky, 60 yards worsted or DK Finished Size: 6.5″ wide x 3″ tall
To Begin: With larger hook and bulky yarn, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)
Round 2: 2SC in each ST around. (12)
Round 3: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)
Round 4: (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (24)
Round 5: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (30)
Round 6: (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)
Round 7: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (42)
Round 8: (SC in each of the next 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (48)
Round 9: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (54)
Round 10: (SC in each of the next 4 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (60)
Round 11: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around. (66)
Round 12: (SC in each of the next 5 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (72)
Round 13: SC in each ST around. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (72)
Round 13B: Insert hook into top loops of next ST; attach worsted weight yarn and CH1; SC in same ST. SC Spike Stitch into next ST and each remaining ST. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (72)
Round 14: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each ST around (you’re working in the top loops of the SC Spike Stitches from the previous round). Remove hook. (72)
Round 14B: Reinsert hook into loop from worsted yarn. SC Spike Stitch in each ST around. Remove hook. (72)
Rounds 15-21B: Repeat Rounds 14-14B. (72)
Round 22: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each of the next 70 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. Remove hook. (72)
Round 22-B: Reinsert hook into loop from worsted yarn. SC Spike Stitch into each of the next 70 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST Spike Stitch into each of the remaining 2 STS. Remove hook. (72)
Fasten off worsted yarn – you won’t need it anymore.
Round 23: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. Join with a SL ST to the next ST (the first ST of the previous round). CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first HDC. (72)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 24: CH1. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Do not join. (72)
Rounds 25-36: SC in each ST around. (72)
Round 37: SC in each of the next 70 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (72)
Fasten off and weave in ends. Proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas”.
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Adding Plastic Canvas
Cut across your plastic canvas to make strips that are the same height as the inner layer of the basket. Set your basket so that it is completely unfolded. Roll up a strip of canvas and insert it into the bottom of the basket, allowing it to expand up against the walls of the basket. Continue adding as many layers as you want to make it as stiff as you want. Fold the inside layer down over the canvas. Work the fabric until it all lays neat and flat.
You’re done!
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your baskets on social media, be sure to use hashtag #ycmosaicbasket and tag me @yarnandchai.design!
I love nautical decor. (Sidenote – the word “nautical” always makes me giggle because my boys love the movie “Boss Baby” and there’s a part where the older brother is trying to get the baby into this obnoxious blue and white striped outfit and the baby screams “I DON’T DO NAUTICAL! IT’S NOT EVEN FRIDAY!” My boys ran around the house for like a week yelling that line before they finally asked me one day, “Mommy, what does nautical mean?” But I digress.)
If you love the feel of the ocean breeze as much as I do, you’ll love making these super easy baskets that look like something out of a catalog. If you haven’t done grommets or eyelets on a crochet project before, don’t run away. I promise it’s easy-peasy. And you can’t beat the professional finishing touch they give to these baskets!
How It’s Constructed
I make my baskets a little different than the traditional way. I’ve made baskets before and never found them enjoyable because they required such tiny hooks to get the thick yarn nice and stiff, and even then, they weren’t that stiff. And my hands always ached. So, for my baskets, I use a double-layer method that relies on plastic canvas to get them really stiff and sturdy. It requires a little extra time, but a whole lot less wrist pain!
Choosing Your Yarn
For the Nautical Baskets, you’ll want to look for a #5 weight (chunky/bulky) yarn. I used Bernat Maker Outdoor, which is an acrylic/nylon mix, but there are many chunky yarns out there that will work. Just find something that you like the look of and has the colors you want to use, and avoid anything that’s super soft.
Choosing Your Colors
With a nautical theme in mind, I chose navy and white for my basket. But of course, you can use any color(s) you want! I think a deep red and white would be a beautiful compliment to the navy and white.
Additional Features
I add extra little features to my patterns whenever I can, because I think a little fabric or metal can add such a professional touch to handmade items. Here’s what I used in these baskets:
Rope Handles
You can find rope at pretty much any craft store, often in several different departments, sold in packages or by-the-yard; just look for the 3/8″ size. For this project, I chose a natural rope that I had leftover from another project. For the large basket, you’ll need two 20″ lengths. For the small basket, you’ll need two 16″ lengths.
Eyelets (optional)
If you’re wondering what those metallic circles are where the rope attaches to my basket – they’re eyelets! They give the basket such a professional finished look, and they are not hard to install – you just need a hammer and a little confidence. And if you really don’t want to put eyelets on your basket, that’s ok. You can simply feed the rope through the holes we create and they should stay put just fine.
If you have a Hobby Lobby nearby, you’ll find an eyelet kit in the sewing notions section. Make sure you grab the one with the setting tool included if you don’t already have one! You can also buy the setting tool separate and then choose your eyelet color (I picked silver). Either way, you’re looking for 15/32″ (12mm) eyelets and you need 4 per basket. Watch for the sale, and you’ll score it all for 50% off.
Metallic Embellishment
These are becoming more and more popular at the big box craft stores, and you’ll usually find them in the scrapbooking section. I found both the Emerson quote and the anchor at Michael’s. (The anchor actually came in a set of two.)
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
Finished Size: 9″ wide x 8″ tall (large basket) and 6″ wide x 5.5″ tall (small basket)
Hook: H (5.0mm) and G (4.25mm). Because we’re using a small hook for a chunky yarn, make sure to protect your hands by using hooks with padded grips. I absolutely love my Clover Amour hooks!
Yarn: I used Bernat Maker Outdoor for my baskets, but most #5 weight chunky/bulky yarns will work; just avoid anything that’s super soft. For the large basket, you will need about 330 yards of COLOR A (I used “Navy Ink”) and 165 yards of COLOR B (I used “Fresh White”). For the small basket, you will need about 170 yards of COLOR A and 75 yards of COLOR B.
Gauge: With your larger hook, your first 8 rounds should measure 3.75″ wide.
You’ll also need:
Yarn needle
Scissors
Two 20″ (large basket) or 16″ (small basket) lengths of 3/8″ twisted rope for handles (available at craft stores)
Optional but recommended: Size 15/32″ (12mm) eyelet kit. Each basket needs 4 eyelets. You don’t have to add these but they will give your basket a beautiful, professional finished look.
Hammer (if using eyelets)
Plastic Canvas – look for the large sheets of ultra stiff, and get a couple per basket. If you can’t find the large sheets, that’s ok; just grab a couple extra of the smaller ones.
Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet)
Special Stitch: Magic Circle (view my tutorial here)
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in joined rounds. Some rounds are turned and some are not, so pay attention. CH1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.
(3) The increases for this pattern are done in what I call a “Smooth Circle Base.” Normally when doing standard SC increase rounds, the more rounds you do, the more your circle will start to look like a hexagon (due to the height of the SC increases stacking up on each other). Because we do 16 increase rounds on the large basket, the effect is rather severe. So instead of a standard increase pattern, we are using a modified increase pattern that will result in a much nicer, rounded circle.
(4) When switching colors, you do not need to fasten off the previous color unless the instructions say to; you can simply carry it up the inside of basket. It won’t show in the end.
(5) The instructions for adding the eyelets are included after the written patterns, but the eyelets need to be installed in the middle of the pattern. This is noted in the patterns at the proper time. So when you get to that part, skip down to the eyelet instructions, then return to the pattern to complete it.
(6) The chunky yarn is too thick for the eyelets to attach through both layers, so they will only show on the outside of the basket.
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INSTRUCTIONS (Large Basket)
To begin: With COLOR A and H (5.0mm) hook, make a magic circle; CH1.
Round 1: 6SC in MC; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (6)
Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (12)
Round 3: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in next ST. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (18)
Round 4: CH1. SC in first ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST. (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (24)
Round 5: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (30)
Round 6: CH1. SC in each of the first 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS. (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (36)
Round 7: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (42)
Round 8: CH1. SC in each of the first 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS. (SC in each of the next 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (48)
Round 9: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (54)
Round 10: CH1. SC in each of the first 4 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS. (SC in each of the next 4 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (60)
Round 11: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Round 12: CH1. SC in each of the first 5 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS. (SC in each of the next 5 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (72)
Round 13: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 11 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 11 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (78)
Round 14: CH1. SC in each of the first 6 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS. (SC in each of the next 6 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (84)
Round 15: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 13 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 13 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (90)
Round 16: CH1. SC in each of the first 7 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS. (SC in each of the next 7 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Rounds 17-19: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 20-22: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 23-25: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 26-28: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 29-31: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 32-34: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 35-37: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 38-40: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 41-43: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 44-46: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A; fasten off COLOR B.
Round 47: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Rounds 48-50: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Round 51: CH1, TURN. SC in each of the first 12 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 20 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 20 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (88 + 4 CH2 spaces)
Round 52: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around, putting 2SC in each CH2 space from the previous round. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Rounds 53-55: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
If you’re adding eyelets, STOP HERE and attach them now in each of the 4 holes we created in Round 51, then return to the pattern to complete it. (It will be much harder to do later.) See instructions following pattern for Small Basket.
Switch to G (4.25mm) hook.
Rounds 56-58: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Round 59: CH1, TURN. SC in each of the first 12 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 20 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 20 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (88 + 4 CH2 spaces) (Note: The holes you just created should be directly above the holes you created in Round 51.)
Round 60: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around, putting 2SC in each CH2 space from the previous round. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Rounds 61-63: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B (you fastened it off earlier but you can reattach it now).
Round 64: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Rounds 65-66: CH1, DO NOT turn. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 67-69: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 70-72: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 73-75: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 76-78: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 79-81: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 82-84: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 85-87: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 88-90: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 91-93: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Fasten off and weave in all ends. See sections on “Adding Plastic Canvas” and “Adding Rope Handles” to complete project.
INSTRUCTIONS (Small Basket)
To begin: With COLOR A and H (5.0mm) hook, make a magic circle; CH1.
Round 1: 6SC in MC; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (6)
Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (12)
Round 3: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in next ST. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (18)
Round 4: CH1. SC in first ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST. (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (24)
Round 5: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (30)
Round 6: CH1. SC in each of the first 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS. (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (36)
Round 7: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (42)
Round 8: CH1. SC in each of the first 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS. (SC in each of the next 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (48)
Round 9: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (54)
Round 10: CH1. SC in each of the first 4 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS. (SC in each of the next 4 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (60)
Round 11: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Rounds 12-14: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 15-17: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 18-20: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 21-23: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 24-26: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 27-29: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR A; fasten off COLOR B.
Round 30: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Rounds 31-33: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Round 34: CH1, TURN. SC in each of the first 8 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 13 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 16 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 13 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 8 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (58 + 4 CH2 spaces)
Round 35: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around, putting 2SC in each CH2 space from the previous round. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Rounds 36-38: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
If you’re adding eyelets, STOP HERE and attach them now in each of the 4 holes we created in Round 34, then return to the pattern to complete it. (It will be much harder to do later.) See instructions following this pattern.
Switch to G (4.25mm) hook.
Rounds 39-41: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Round 42: CH1, TURN. SC in each of the first 8 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 13 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 16 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 13 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 8 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (58 + 4 CH2 spaces) (Note: The holes you just created should be directly above the holes you created in Round 34.)
Round 43: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around, putting 2SC in each CH2 space from the previous round. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Rounds 44-46: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR B (you fastened it off earlier but you can reattach it now).
Round 47: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Rounds 48-49: CH1, DO NOT turn. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 50-52: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 53-55: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 56-58: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 59-61: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 62-64: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Fasten off and weave in all ends. See sections on “Adding Plastic Canvas” and “Adding Rope Handles” to complete project.
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ATTACHING EYELETS OR GROMMETS
Open your eyelet or grommet kit and retrieve the following items:
Follow the instructions on your eyelet/grommet kit to add eyelets/grommets to each of the four holes of the basket. (Please note that if your instructions include anything about punching a hole in the fabric, you do not need to do this step because we crocheted holes right into our fabric.) You can watch my tutorial video for the Malia Shoulder Bag to see exactly how eyelets are installed; I demonstrate it at the 19:11 mark (the video below is cued to that moment). A few tips to keep in mind:
Do this on a solid, sturdy surface. Your hard floor is ok; a concrete garage floor is best.
Make sure you are inserting the eyelet from the outside of the basket, through to the inside (not the other way around).
Don’t go too crazy with the hammering or you’ll split and break the eyelet.
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ADDING PLASTIC CANVAS
Cut across your plastic canvas to make strips that will fit inside the basket and come up to just below the eyelets. Set your basket so that it is completely unfolded (image 1). Insert plastic canvas into the bottom of the basket, using as many layers as you want to make it as stiff as you want (image 2). Fold the inside layer down over the canvas (image 3). Work the fabric until it all lays neat and flat (image 4).
You can watch my Plastic Canvas tutorial video if you need help with what plastic canvas is, where to buy it, or how to use it; the only difference is that in the video, I’m not using a basket with eyelets so the canvas in the demo comes all the way to the top of the basket. But you’ll get the idea.
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ADDING ROPE HANDLES
Locate the seam of your basket, then locate the nearest eyelet to the right of the seam. Take your first rope handle and tie a piece of scotch tape around the end, and insert it through the eyelets as well as the corresponding hole on the inside layer of the basket. Tie a knot near the bottom of the rope on the inside of the basket and pull it tight (you can use your eyelet to help by gently but firmly pulling the rope from the outside of the basket, which will pull the knot against the eyelet and tighten it up). Then, use good scissors to cut the excess rope close to the knot. Moving farther away from your basket’s seam to the next available eyelet, insert the other end of the rope through it and repeat the process. That’s your first handle. For your second handle, start at the seam again and locate the nearest eyelet to the left of the seam. Repeat the entire process for the 2nd handle. (Neither handle should cross over the seam.)
Note that you’ll want both handles to be the same length, so be sure to compare them when you’re about to tie your final knot to ensure that the handle sizes match.
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That’s it – you’re done! If you’re showing off your work, be sure to hashtag #ycnauticalbasket and tag me @yarnandchai.design!
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