© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

When I released the patterns for the Yenni Slouch and Boot Cuffs, they were a huge hit.

I knew I wasn’t done with this stitch pattern yet, and that was reaffirmed to me when I was asked by several of you for a matching scarf pattern!

I’ve been really into fringe lately, and this is my first pattern that includes it.

I’ve been wearing this scarf everywhere. It has great drape and detailing, but the light #3 yarn makes it easy to tuck into a winter coat.

(If #3 yarn scares you like it did me when I was a crochet newbie, you can pretty easily make this scarf with #4 worsted and an appropriately sized hook, too. But I strongly encourage you to give #3 yarn a try. You might fall in love like I did!)

 

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YENNI INFINITY FRINGE SCARF

Level: Easy

Size:
Scarf measures 54″ long before seaming, and 6″ wide (not including fringe)

Materials:

• H hook (5.00mm) and G hook (4.25mm)
• Yarn needle
• #3 (light) yarn, about 410-420 yards. I used 2 skeins of Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn (Sport) in “Graybeard”.

Gauge: With H hook, 4HDC = 1″

Stitches Used:
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using H Hook, and leaving a 12″ tail, CH23.

Row 1:  SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (22)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (22)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (22)

Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 20 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (22)

Row 5: CH1, turn. Working in 3rd loops, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (22)

Rows 6-152: Repeat Rows 2-5 in order until you have 152 total rows (or until your scarf measures approximately 54″ long), being sure to end on a repeat of Row 4. (This will help the seam look the most natural.) Fasten off your yarn and weave in the end.

Seaming
Bring the two ends of the scarf together, being careful to not twist it. Use your starting tail to whip stitch them together, utilizing the 3rd loop of the final row in order to hide the seam. Weave in the remainder of the tail securely.

Switch to G hook.

Top Band, Round 1: With G hook, reattach your yarn at the seam; CH1. SC evenly around the scarf, putting 5SC between each ribbed row, as shown below. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST.

Top Band, Rounds 2-8: CH1, turn. SC around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Fringe
We need to cut approximately 80 pieces of yarn for the fringe. Find a sturdy, thin object in your home that measures somewhere between 8-10″. I used my 9″ cutting board and it worked perfectly! Here’s how you make fringe (the numbers correspond to the photos below):

1. Wrap the yarn around the cutting board about 45 times (this will give us a little wiggle room). Wrap it snug, but don’t wrap it crazy-tight. Try to be consistent.
2. Take a good pair of scissors and carefully cut the yarn right down the center of the pile.
3. You now have a pile of yarn approximately 18″ long. Very carefully, fold it in half and cut at the halfway point again. You should now have about 90 strands of yarn.
4. Choose a starting point at the bottom of one of the ribbed rows. Using a crochet hook and one strand of yarn, fold the yarn in half and use the hook to pull it halfway through the scarf (right at the bottom). The two ends of the strand should be poking out the front of the entry point.
5. Remove your hook and insert the two ends of the strand through the loop.
6. Pull tight.
7. Continue around the scarf, adding fringe at every two rows (so you’ll add fringe at every ribbed row, as well as halfway between each ribbed row).  Use the photo for a visual.

That’s it! Enjoy your cute new infinity scarf, and don’t forget to make the matching hat and boot cuffs!

© Model Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

So there is this gorgeous classic knit scarf style that I’ve been seeing everywhere (like here), and I haven’t been able to get it out of my mind. Mostly because when I first saw it and fell in love with it, I knew I could recreate it as a crochet scarf.

It just looked so plush and warm and comfy… which is why I knew that just as important as finding the right stitches, was choosing the right yarn. There was no doubt in my mind that Cascade Yarns had what I needed!

After using Cascade’s Longwood Sport (a #3 light yarn) to create the Yenni Slouch Hat pattern, I always knew I’d use that yarn again. For this scarf, I opted instead for the #4 yarn in the same product line. When the Longwood 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool showed up on my doorstep, I was soooo happy with my decision. This yarn is so plush. Every so often I wanted to put my hook down and just bury my face in it. It’s like crocheting with bunnies. Honestly. Baby bunnies.

The best part? Even using a somewhat pricier yarn, I still spent half of what I would’ve spent buying this scarf. What do you think… can you tell the difference?

I really think you’re going to love this pattern! If you choose the right yarn, it’ll look and feel like luxury. All your friends will want to know where you bought it!

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This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

SUPER PLUSH FAUX-KNIT INFINITY SCARF

Level: Easy
Size:
 58” around, 7” wide
Gauge:
 With H hook, 4HDC = 1”
Hook: H (5.0mm) – please see notes section
You’ll also need: Yarn needle
Yarn: Longwood 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool (by Cascade Yarns)*, 550-560 yards. The color in the photos is Cream.

*About Longwood 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool:
            
Weight: #4 worsted 
Fiber: 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool
Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 191 yds (175 m)
Gauge: 18 sts = 4″ (10 cm), US 7-8 (4.5-5 mm)

Abbreviations Used:
   CH (chain)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
HDC (half double crochet)
FHDC (foundation half double crochet — optional, but recommended. View tutorial at http://goo.gl/OiU7Mb)

 

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – The bulk of this pattern is completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect. View tutorial here.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) Be sure to choose a soft, breathable worsted weight yarn with good drape for this pattern. If you choose a heavier yarn, such as Aran, you’ll need to adjust your hook size so it doesn’t become stiff.
(3) You can make the scarf shorter or longer simply by changing the number of stitches in your starting row. There is no formula needed.
(4) CH1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Round 1: FHDC* 220, or until your foundation chain is about 54″ long (it will stretch). Join to the top of the first FHDC with a SL ST, being careful that you don’t twist the round.

*Alternate start, if you aren’t comfortable with the Foundation method: CH221. HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH (220 HDC). Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. 

Round 2: CH1, turn. In 3rd loops, HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (220)

Rounds 3-27 (or until scarf is the width you prefer: Repeat Round 2.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Pretty simple, right? Enjoy!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

GRIT STITCH INFINITY SCARF

Hook: P (11.50mm)
Yarn: Super Bulky (I used 3 skeins of Lion Brand’s “Hometown USA”)
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: Not crucial, but a row of 4 (sc,dc, sk next st) combos = about 6″
Finished Size: Approximately 58″ around, 7.5″ wide

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round. Do not join or chain except when instructed. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of your rounds.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: Ch 81.

Row 1: SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each St across. Bring ends together, being careful not to twist the chain, and join with a slip stitch to the top of the first SC.

Round 2 (We will now work in seamless rounds): Do not chain. Skip the first St. (SC+DC in next St, Sk next St) around.

Rounds 3-9 (or until scarf is about 7.5″ wide): (SC+DC in next St, Sk next St) around. (Wondering if your placement is correct? Your SC+DC combos should be completed in loops from each SC from previous row, with each DC from previous row being left empty.)

Slip Stitch into the next 3 stitches to smooth out the row, then fasten off and weave in ends.