In my almost decade of crocheting, I’ve never had a very successful relationship with furry yarn.
There are so many times I’ve wanted to use it, and I’ve bought more variations of it than I can count over the years, but the skeins have never amounted to much of anything because I always end up deciding that whatever I was going to make just wasn’t worth the trouble.
Can you relate?
I’d love to tell you that I have a magic solution for you, but I don’t.
That said… I think I’ve found a yarn that is easier to work with than anything I’ve tried before.
The proof?
I made a pillow with it!
And then I made another, bigger pillow!
That’s right; I finished the first one and still had enough patience in me to make another. And trust me, when you make this pillow… you’re going to want to make another, too. And another. They are sooooo soft and plushy. And with the #6 super bulky yarn, they work up so darn quick once you get the hang of that yarn!
About the Yarn
The yarn I used is Big Twist Sherpa. If you didn’t know, Big Twist is one of Joann Fabrics’ store brands. The Sherpa line showed up in my local store this fall in a big, hard-to-miss center aisle display and the big, fluffy skeins drew me in.
As I mentioned, I’ve never been great with fur yarn. You really have to feel for your next stitch, because the soft faux fur just blends everything together and there is literally zero stitch definition. Big Twist Sherpa made it a little bit easier, though, by using a dark color for the actual thread, and then blending that same dark color out to white. So the darker it is, the closer you are to your stitch… which really helps.
One neat thing about the way the yarn is constructed is that when it’s worked in unturned rounds (as we will with this pillow), the “right” side of the resulting fabric is significantly more color-saturated than the “wrong” side, which brings in a lot more of the white. You’ll see this as you work the pattern, but you won’t have to decide which side you like more until the very end. (I ended up choosing the “wrong” side because I liked the brightness of it.)
One word of caution: be sure to grab enough skeins of the same dye lot for your project. I didn’t pay attention (oops) and let me tell you, the difference in the two skeins when I started to add on the second one was jarring. It’s not so much that the color was different, but the second skein had a much bigger concentration of white. I went back to my store and was very lucky to find a skein that matched my first one!
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Difficulty: Easyish (The pattern is easy… the yarn takes some focus!)
Crochet Language: American Standard
Finished Sizes:For 12″ and 18″ pillow inserts (The opening should measure about .5″-1″ smaller than your pillow insert; it will stretch.)
Yarn: Big Twist Sherpa, a very thick, #6 super bulky yarn. You’ll need 2 skeins for the 12″ pillow, or 3 skeins for the 18″. I used “Sea” and “Wine.”
Hook: 9.0mm (M or N depending on brand; go by mm measurement)
Gauge: 9 CSC x 9 rows = 4″ square (Note that there is no stitch multiple for this pattern, so it would probably be easier to adjust your initial chain to the correct width than to try to match gauge exactly.)
You’ll also need: 12″ or 18″ pillow insert, yarn needle for weaving in super bulky yarn
Terms and Abbreviations: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) CH (chain) CSC (crossed single crochet: Insert hook into stitch. Yarn UNDER, pull through; 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops.)
Notes: (1) Fur yarn is challenging, but you’ll get better with practice. Big Twist Sherpa has been one of the easier fur yarns I’ve used, because the fur gets darker the closer to the actual thread you get, and you can use that dark thread and a sharp eye to locate your top loops. However, I find that most of the time I’m using my fingers to feel for where to insert my hook. (2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round. Do not join, chain or turn unless instructed. (3) Pattern is written for a 12″ pillow insert, with instructions for an 18″ insert written in parentheses.
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INSTRUCTIONS
To begin: CH27 (CH41), or to 11.5”-12” (17.5”-18”)
For Round 1, we’re going to CSC across the length of a chain, and then CSC back down the other side of it until we are back where we started.
Round 1: CSC in 2nd CH from hook (mark this first ST with a stitch marker) and in each remaining CH. Working down the other side of the chain, CSC across. You have now worked in both sides of each chain. DO NOT join. Stitch count: 52 (80)
In the inset image, you can see that I’ve crocheted along the entire chain, completing the first half of Round 1. The illustration shows you what the stitches look like underneath all that fur.
To begin working down the other side of the chain, insert your hook where the pink line at the top is pointing. (If you’re thinking “that’s the same place I made the last CSC”, you’d be right!) Continue to place a CSC in each chain until you are back where you first started.
Rounds 2-27 (2-41), or until pillow measures 12” (18”) tall: CSC in each ST around. Stitch count: 52 (80)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for weaving top of pillow closed. Choose which side you like best, and weave all other tails on whichever side of the pillow you have determined to be the “wrong” side.
Turn pillow right side out. Add pillow insert, then hold open edges of pillow together and seam closed with your preferred method. Here’s how I seamed mine:
Weave in tail and hide excess yarn inside pillow.
That’s it! Enjoy your soft, cozy new pillow!
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your project on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!
A few years ago, my sister saw a photo of another designer’s floor pouf and exclaimed “I want one!” She probably doesn’t even remember this, but I do. At the time, I was a much slower crocheter and the size of that project seemed daunting. But lucky for her, I’m much faster (and, more importantly, more confident) than I was then. And, I drew her name in the family Christmas exchange this year! 🙂
Ready to make your own?
The Supplies
Yarn
You’ll need two different yarns to achieve the mosaic effect of this pattern. First, you’ll need a chunky #5 yarn that will be the base color of your pouf. Just like with my Mosaic Baskets, I used Bernat Maker Home Dec (but with a bigger hook — yay!). I think it’s the perfect yarn for this project, but really any #5 yarn will work.
Second, you’ll need a different colored yarn for the mosaic pattern on the sides of the pouf. You can get so creative here! Whether you choose a solid, variegated, or self-striping yarn, the effect will be awesome. The only rule is that it needs to be thinner than your base yarn so that you can still see the base yarn through the mosaic stitching. I recommend a #3 weight yarn.
Stuffing
We also have to stuff this thing, which is quite large. There are several things you can do — if you like to sew, you can sew an insert and fill it with polyester stuffing (you’ll need a lot to help it hold its shape). You can also use old pillows or an old blanket, but you’ll probably have to work a little harder to get it nice and round.
Or, do what I did, and use a couple rolls of foam! I found this at my craft store by the pillow inserts and knew it would be perfect. I bought two rolls of the 1″ thick foam and had my handyman dad help me slice them in half so that I would have twice as much to work with. I then carefully combined it all into one big roll.
Perfect!
Large wood circle
This part is optional, but I think it’s a great addition. If you want your pouf cover to be removable (for washing), you can purchase a large wooden circle from a craft or hardware store. I found a 15″ circle in the woodworking section of Joann Fabrics, but yours doesn’t have to be 15″ — just make sure it covers a good amount of the bottom of the pouf. (If it’s too small, you’ll have to crochet further toward the middle and the cover will get harder to remove.) I’ll explain in the directions how to adjust the pattern for whatever size you get.
Of course, if you don’t want to add the wooden piece and don’t need it to be washable, just follow the pattern to the end to completely close up the stuffing in crocheted fabric.
For the Visual Learners
This pattern does not have a video tutorial. However, it is basically just a very large version of my Mosaic Basket! If you want to quickly practice the techniques in this pattern before committing to it on such a large scale, I highly recommend that you watch the video tutorial below and maybe even follow along to make the small sized basket. Any confusing parts are bound to become more clear when seen in action!
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This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
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Yarn: I used about 930 yards of Bernat Maker Home Dec (a #5 bulky weight cotton/nylon blend) in “Clay”, and about 400 yards of Yarn Bee Urban Chic (a #3 light acrylic/alpaca blend) in “Juneberry Breeze”.
Hook: K (6.5mm)
Gauge: First 7 rounds of pattern = 4.25″ across
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker, stuffing
Terms and Abbreviations: MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) Spike Stitch (see Special Stitches, below) SC2TOG (single crochet two together)
Special Stitches:
SC Spike Stitch: Instead of inserting your hook into the top loops of the stitch, insert them into its base, then complete an SC. This will wrap your SCs over the top of the SCs from the previous round.
SL ST Spike Stitch: Follow instructions for SC Spike Stitch, but instead of completing an SC, complete a SL ST.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round. Use a stitch marker or bobby pin to mark the first stitch of each round.
(3) When working increase rounds in single crochet (as we do for this pattern), the small bumps created by the increases tend to make the circle look more like a hexagon the more rounds you complete. That’s why for this large base of 32 rounds, I chose to use the Smooth Circle Base method, which is a way of staggering the placement of your increase stitches to keep it all circular. If you need help with this method beyond the written instructions, you can use my video tutorial for the Mosaic Basket in which I go into great detail about how it is done. If you prefer to not use the method, a standard 32-round increase will work fine and the hexagon will work back into a smooth circle eventually after you get past the increasing part of the pattern.
(4) Because we utilize the SC Spike Stitch for entire rounds throughout the pattern, we will be referring to those rounds as an extension of the SC rounds they are being worked into. For example, if Round 32 is a round of SC, then the very next round which places spike stitches on top of those SCs will be referred to as Round 32B. This just makes for easier counting.
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Part 1: Increasing
Note: What follows is the Smooth Circle Base method of increasing. Please refer to Note #3 for an explanation.
To Begin: Make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)
Round 2: 2SC in each ST around. (12)
Round 3: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)
Round 4: (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (24)
Round 5: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (30)
Round 6: (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)
Round 7: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (42)
Round 8: (SC in each of the next 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (48)
Round 9: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (54)
Round 10: (SC in each of the next 4 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (60)
Round 11: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around. (66)
Round 12: (SC in each of the next 5 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (72)
Round 13: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 11 STS) around. (78)
Round 14: (SC in each of the next 6 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) around. (84)
Round 15: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 13 STS) around. (90)
Round 16: (SC in each of the next 7 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (96)
Round 17: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 15 STS) around. (102)
Round 18: (SC in each of the next 8 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 8 STS) around. (108)
Round 19: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 17 STS) around. (114)
Round 20: (SC in each of the next 9 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around. (120)
Round 21: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 19 STS) around. (126)
Round 22: (SC in each of the next 10 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 10 STS) around. (132)
Round 23: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 21 STS) around. (138)
Round 24: (SC in each of the next 11 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 11 STS) around. (144)
Round 25: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 23 STS) around. (150)
Round 26: (SC in each of the next 12 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 12 STS) around. (156)
Round 27: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 25 STS) around. (162)
Round 28: (SC in each of the next 13 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 13 STS) around. (168)
Round 29: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 27 STS) around. (174)
Round 30: (SC in each of the next 14 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 14 STS) around. (180)
Round 31: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 29 STS) around. (186)
Round 32: (SC in each of the next 15 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 15 STS) around. (192)
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Part 2: Body of Pouf
Rounds 33-36: SC in each ST around. (192)
Round 37: SC in each ST around. Pull up a loop on your hook a couple inches tall so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (192)
Round 37B: Insert hook into top loops of next ST; attach thinner yarn and CH1; SC in same ST. SC Spike Stitch into next ST and each remaining ST. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (192)
Round 38: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each ST around (you’re working in the top loops of the SC Spike Stitches from the previous round). Remove hook. (192)
Round 38B: Reinsert hook into loop from thinner yarn. SC Spike Stitch in each ST around. Remove hook. (192)
Rounds 39-67B: Repeat Rounds 38-38B. (192)
If you’re using rolled foam as your stuffing, you should insert it now to see how high the fabric will reach up the side. Be sure to work the fabric a bit and stretch it up — you don’t want to pull it crazy tight, but the more snug the fabric fits over the stuffing, the better the whole thing will look in the end. If you’re confident that the fabric will stretch up to the top of the insert, that’s great. If not, you can add more rounds before moving on. If you think you need to take some rounds away to make sure it all stays tight and snug, do that.
Round 68: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each of the next 189 STS (3 STS remain). SL ST in each of the remaining 3 STS. Remove hook. (192)
Round 68B: Reinsert hook into loop from thinner yarn. SC Spike Stitch in each of the next 189 STS (3 STS remain). SL ST Spike Stitch in each of the remaining 3 STS. Remove hook. (192)
Round 69: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn; fasten off thinner yarn. SC in each ST around. (192)
Take a moment to weave in all ends before proceeding to “Decreasing”.
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Part 3: Decreasing
Important note: Below you will find the complete pattern for decreasing back down to the handful of stitches you started with. If you don’t plan to use a wooden insert at the bottom, follow these instructions to the end. If you do plan to use an insert, simply follow the instructions until your crocheted fabric will cover the wooden insert by about 2-3 inches, then proceed to “Finishing with a wooden insert”, below.
Round 70: (SC in each of the next 15 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 15 STS) around. (186)
Round 71: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 29 STS) around. (180)
Round 72: (SC in each of the next 14 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 14 STS) around. (174)
Round 73: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 27 STS) around. (168)
Round 74: (SC in each of the next 13 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 13 STS) around. (162)
Round 75: (SC2TOaG, SC in each of the next 25 STS) around. (156)
Round 76: (SC in each of the next 12 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 12 STS) around. (150)
Round 77: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 23 STS) around. (144)
Round 78: (SC in each of the next 11 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 11 STS) around. (138)
Round 79: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 21 STS) around. (132)
Round 80: (SC in each of the next 10 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 10 STS) around. (126)
Round 81: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 19 STS) around. (120)
Round 82: (SC in each of the next 9 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around. (114)
Round 83: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 17 STS) around. (108)
Round 84: (SC in each of the next 8 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 8 STS) around. (102)
Round 85: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 15 STS) around. (96)
Round 86: (SC in each of the next 7 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (90)
Round 87: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 13 STS) around. (84)
Round 88: (SC in each of the next 6 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 6 STS) around. (78)
Round 89: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 11 STS) around. (72)
Round 90: (SC in each of the next 5 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (66)
Round 91: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around. (60)
Round 92: (SC in each of the next 4 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (54)
Round 93: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (48)
Round 94: (SC in each of the next 3 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (42)
Round 95: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (36)
Round 96: (SC in each of the next 2 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (30)
Round 97: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (24)
Round 98: (SC in next ST, SC2TOG, SC in next ST) around. (18)
Round 99: (SC2TOG, SC in next ST) around. (12)
To Finish: Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread it through your yarn needle and weave it in and out of the 12 stitches from the previous round, then pull it tight and weave in.
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Finishing with a Wooden Insert
After you’ve completed a sufficient number of decrease rounds, fasten off and weave in the end. Cut a long length of Bernat Maker Home Dec (or your chosen chunky yarn) and thread it through a yarn needle. Weave it in and out of each stitch of the last completed round. Insert your wooden circle, then take each end of the threaded yarn and pull tight (but don’t break it!) and tie a small bow.
You’re done!
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your pouf on social media, be sure to use hashtag #mosaicfloorpouf and tag me @yarnandchai.design!
I am so excited to team up with Hobby Lobby to bring you my newest pattern – the Autumn Boho Pillow!
I’ve been playing around with different ways to do single crochet stitches to make unique designs, so when Hobby Lobby asked me to make a fun fall pattern with some of their new Yarn Bee yarn, I knew right away that I wanted to incorporate the stitches into a cozy fall pillow! I’m really loving the boho style right now – I’ve always loved tassels and fur – and this pillow incorporates all of that to produce a piece of fresh, modern fall decor.
Let’s Talk About This Yarn!
I don’t know if you’ve noticed, but over the last few months, Hobby Lobby has been adding a ton of new yarns to their Yarn Bee line. One of those yarns is called Breathe Deep, and I’m not sure what I’m more drawn to — that name, or the crazy soft yarn it represents. Breathe Deep is an airy worsted weight yarn that’s available in a range of soft, modern shades. The strands have a rustic look to them, perfect for fall, and the polyester fibers are squishy and soft. It was a dream to work with — there was very little splitting, the stitches were easy to see, and the fibers didn’t irritate my sensitive skin.
In the pattern, I used the colors “Sage”, “Ivory”, and “Brown Sugar.” Sounds like autumn to me!
The pillow is edged in Fur-Ever Style, another Yarn Bee Yarn. Even if you’re intimidated by fur yarns, give it a try! This is an easy project to practice on because we only use a little, but it adds such a cozy finishing touch.
My Second Sample
I also worked up a second sample in one of my all-time favorite yarns, Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic. This was totally a personal project and I had no intention of showing it here, but it turned out so pretty that I had to photograph it. For this pillow, I used “Red Roads” and “Okie Wheat” for the deep red and mustard colors, as well as Yarn Bee’s Must Be Merino in “Ivory” for the detailing and tassels. (Must Be Merino is actually a #3 weight yarn, but in this specific case, it doesn’t matter all that much. I grabbed it because I wanted a super smooth yarn to contrast against the heathered look of the Rustic Romantic.) I did chain 4 less in the beginning because the Rustic Romantic is a little thicker than the Breathe Deep yarn, but this pattern doesn’t have a stitch multiple, so it’s easy to adapt!
Full Video Tutorial
If you’re the type who prefers to learn by watching (I know I am!), I have a complete, start-to-finish video tutorial for you right here! Or, scroll down to view the written pattern.
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
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AUTUMN BOHO PILLOW
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: Fits a standard 12″x12″ pillow insert (easily adapted to other sizes)
Hook: 4.5mm (US-7 / G) hook
Yarn: This pattern was written for Breathe Deep, a super-soft #4 worsted weight polyester yarn by Yarn Bee (a Hobby Lobby brand), and edged in Fur-Ever Style, a #4 worsted weight nylon yarn (also by Yarn Bee). Amounts used are as follows:
Breathe Deep Yarn: COLOR A (“Sage”): 185 yds
COLOR B (“Ivory”): 160 yds
COLOR C (“Brown Sugar”): 65 yds
Fur-Ever Style Yarn: FUR EDGING(“Ivory”): 65 yds
Gauge: 9SC x 11 rows = 2″ square
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 12″ square pillow insert
Terms and Abbreviations: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) SC SPIKE STITCH (single crochet spike stitch; see “Special Stitch”, below)
Special Stitch:
SC SPIKE STITCH – Instead of inserting your hook into the top loops of a stitch, insert it into the bottom of the stitch where the “V” meets. See photo (click to enlarge):
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s and CH2s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) There is no stitch multiple for this pattern. If you want to make it wider, add more chains at the beginning. If you want to make it taller, complete the repeated section more times than instructed, switching from COLOR A to COLOR C about 2/3 – 3/4 way up the pillow cover. (Be sure to chain an even number in the beginning in order to have an odd numbered stitch count, so that you can use the stitch in the very center of the pillow to place your first tassel.)
INSTRUCTIONS (make 2)
To begin: With COLOR A, CH50.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (49)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (49)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 4: Without turning your work, insert hook into the first stitch of Row 3, and attach COLOR B (Ivory). CH1. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 5A: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 5B: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH1, turn. SC SPIKE STITCH in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 6: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (49)
Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (49)
Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 9: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH2, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 10A: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 10B: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH1, turn. SC SPIKE STITCH in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (49)
Row 11: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (49)
Row 12: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (49)
Rows 13-47: Repeat Rows 8-12, 7 times. (49)
Switch to COLOR C; fasten off COLOR A.
Rows 48-62: Repeat Rows 8-12, 3 times, using COLOR C in place of COLOR A. (49)
At this point, measure the height of your pillow cover. We want to get it to right about 11.5″, so if you need to do a row or two more, simply continue on with the repeat. If you need to remove a row or two, that’s ok, too. The measurement is more important than the number of rows completed.
Fasten off and weave all ends into the wrong side of the pillow cover.
Edging
With right side facing you, attach COLOR B in top right stitch and CH1. SC around perimeter of square, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Tassels
With COLOR B, use the following steps to make 7 2″ tassels:
With COLOR B, cut 2 8″ lengths of yarn; set aside.
Wrap COLOR B around a 2″ tall piece of cardstock (you can use a credit card) 20 times; fasten off.
Slip one 8″ length of yarn under the strands and pull it up to the top of the card; tie a tight double knot.
Carefully remove yarn from card and cut at the opposite end from the tied-off part.
Take the other 8″ length of yarn and wrap it around the yarn, about 1/2″ below the top knot, and tie a tight double knot.
Thread into a yarn needle each end of the 2nd tie-off yarn (one at a time) and insert the needle just above the knot and down into the middle of the yarn to hide the knot.
Trim yarn at the bottom.
Attach tassel to pillow by using a yarn needle to insert each top strand around a single stitch; double knot on the opposite side and trim the ends. (This will be hidden inside the pillow cover.)
Space all 7 tassels across the pillow evenly and attach them all. Additionally, you can use a small dot of fabric glue under the ball section of the tassel to hold it in place on the pillow; use a pin to hold it where you want it while it dries overnight.
Seaming
Hold both squares together with wrong sides facing each other and right sides facing out. Attach Fur-Ever Style yarn in one corner; CH1 and SC SPIKE STITCH around 3 sides of the pillow, being sure to put 3SC SPIKE STITCHES in the same places you put the 3 SC stitches when you edged each piece individually. Stuff your pillow insert into the cover, then continue the rest of the way around the pillow until it is completely enclosed. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC, then CH1, turn, and repeat in the opposite direction (still working the spike stitches for a nice, thick ending). Join, fasten off, and weave in ends.
Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #autumnbohopillow and tag me @yarnandchai.design!
Two things I’m loving this spring: the Bean Stitch, and accent pillows!
So, to make this free pattern I combined the Bean Stitch with a classic ribbing to create this beautiful pillow. Vanna’s Choice in “Linen” and “Graphite” come together to give it that rustic-modern look that is always a winner to me.
Once you get the hang of the Bean Stitch, this pillow works up quick. I made it in two days while watching Nashville reruns during my son’s naps… and he’s a catnapper (UGH), so I think that’s pretty impressive! (Any of you other mamas who’ve had catnappers, I know you’re feeling my pain right now. Seriously, my laundry piles are sky high and we’ve had pizza for dinner one too many times this month. Good thing he’s cute!)
Scroll down for the free pattern, or Klik hier voor de Nederlandse vertaling (Dutch translation). (Nederlandse vertaling gemaakt door Rita van Someren voor Haken voor Iedereen en Summerday’s Creations. Dit patroon mag niet in andere groepen, websites, blogs etc. gedeeld worden.)
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BEAN STITCH ACCENT PILLOW
Level: Easyish
Size: 11.5″ x 11.5″ (stretches to fit a 12″ square pillow insert)
Hooks: I (5.5mm) and H (5.0mm)
Yarn: I used about 275 yards of Vanna’s Choice (from Lion Brand), a #4 aran weight yarn. The breakdown is as follows:
COLOR A (ribbing): Vanna’s Choice “Linen” (about 75 yards)
COLOR B (main section): Vanna’s Choice “Graphite” (about 200 yards)
You’ll also need: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, 12″ pillow insert
Gauge: Your 15 rows of ribbing (as instructed in the “first ribbing” section of the pattern) should measure about 4″ unstretched.
Abbreviations Used: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) BLO (back loops only)
Special Stitch:
Bean Stitch – Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(3) Make 2.
(4) Each side of the pillow is worked in one piece (with color changes). In other words, the second ribbing section is not created and sewn on separately. Once both sides of the pillow are complete, you will follow the instructions to sew them together with your pillow insert inside.
(5) A Dutch translation is available here. Nederlandse vertaling gemaakt door Rita van Someren voor Haken voor Iedereen en Summerday’s Creations. Dit patroon mag niet in andere groepen, websites, blogs etc. gedeeld worden.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
SECTION 1: FIRST RIBBING
To begin: With larger hook and COLOR A, CH9.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)
Rows 2-40: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)
– – – – – – – – –
SECTION 2: BODY OF PILLOW
Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly down the long edge of the ribbing, putting 1SC in each ribbing row (each peak and each valley). (40)
Switch to COLOR B, fasten off previous color.
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (40)
Note: At this point we will begin using the Bean Stitch. The bulkiness of this stitch might cause you to unintentionally loosen your tension significantly. To rectify this, you can switch to a smaller hook size. The ribbing will stretch around the pillow so it is not imperative that your bean stitch rows be exactly the same length as your strip of ribbing, but you will want to measure a bean stitch row every so often to make sure you aren’t crocheting the beans so loosely that the length is more than 11.5″. If it is, you’ll want to lower your hook size even more.
Rows 3-22: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, BEAN STITCH in next ST. (SK next ST, BEAN STITCH in next ST) across. (40, or 20 bean stitches)
Note: If you switched to a lower hook size for rows 3-22, you can switch back to your first hook size now.
Row 23: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (40)
Switch to COLOR A, fasten off previous color.
Row 24: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (40)
– – – – – – – – –
SECTION 3: LAST RIBBING
In this section, we will be creating the second ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the body as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 24” quite a bit; that’s the last row of the body of the pillow we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to.
With hook still in your last stitch from Row 24, CH9.
Last Ribbing, Row 1: Turn work and SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH (Fig. A). SL ST in the first SC of Row 24, then SL ST in the next SC of Row 24 as well (Fig. B). (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 24)
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 24 (Fig. C), SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the ribbing. SC in final ST (Fig. D). (8)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST of ribbing. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS of ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Row 24 (Fig. E). (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 24)
Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 24, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the ribbing. SC in final ST. (8)
Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Row 24 (See Fig. F for a progress photo). You should end up with 40 rows of ribbing, which is the number of stitches in Row 2
Do not fasten off, but do take a moment to weave in your other ends, then proceed to Edging.
– – – – – – – – –
EDGING
We need to put 40 STS along each edge of our square, and to keep it looking really nice, we’re going to edge each section in its own color. Continuing with COLOR A, CH1. SC evenly down the long edge of the ribbing, putting 1SC in each ribbing row (each peak and each valley) for 40 SC. CH1 to round the corner, then proceed to next edge. SC in each of the first 9 STS (8 ribbing stitches + Row 1 of the body). Attach COLOR B (Fig. G). (Note: You can decide if you want to carry the color you aren’t using behind the current color, or fasten it off and reattach it at the next appropriate section. I carried mine.) SC along the BEAN STITCH section of the pillow, putting 1SC in each BEAN STITCH row for a total of 20 SC. SC in the final row of COLOR B (Row 23, the row of single crochet). Switch to COLOR A. Complete 9 more SC to finish the edge, then CH1 to round the corner. Repeat the process for edges 3 & 4, then join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
– – – – – – – – –
SEWING THEM TOGETHER
Keeping your pillow insert handy, hold the two piece together exactly how you want them to be arranged on the pillow. Pick a spot on the edging that is the beginning of a COLOR A section, and attach COLOR A through the same stitch on both pieces (Fig. H). CH1, then SL ST evenly through both layers around the entire COLOR A section (Fig. I), putting (SC, CH1, SC) in each corner. When you come to the COLOR B section, attach COLOR B and fasten off COLOR A (or carry it along if you prefer) and continue. Once you’ve completed about 3/4 of the perimeter of the pillow, stuff your pillow insert inside (Fig. J). Continue to SC the rest of the way around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. Fasten off and weave in ends.
When I was choosing the theme for my newest little monkey’s nursery, I fell in love with this gorgeous navy, gray and green bedding set. In the spirit of keeping things simple and inexpensive, I bought the bed skirt and some off-brand coordinating sheets and changing pad covers. I wanted to add an accent pillow for the rocker to help tie everything together, but the pillow that came with the set was $52.
FIFTY-TWO DOLLARS.
It was really cute, but who has that much money to spend on a decorative pillow? So instead, after making Henry’s Baby Blanket in his nursery colors, I decided to just make a coordinating pillow. I’m giving you the pattern for it today!
As you can see, the pillow only includes 2 color blocks (as opposed to Henry’s Baby Blanket, which uses 3 different colors of blocks). There just wasn’t room for 3 of them on a 12″ pillow without them being reeeaaally skinny. I opted to leave out the green color simply because I figure that when Henry grows out of his nursery, the pillow will be easier to coordinate with a different decor later if it doesn’t have the green in it.
So, if you’re making the baby blanket for someone in their chosen nursery colors, now you can blow them away with a coordinating accent pillow!
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HENRY’S ACCENT PILLOW
Level: Easyish
Size: 11″ x 11″ (stretches to fit a 12″ square pillow insert)
Hook: H (5.0mm)
Yarn: I used about 325 yards of Cascade Longwood (from Jimmy Beans Wool), a lighter #4 worsted weight yarn. Here’s my breakdown, and the colors as assigned in the pattern:
COLOR A (White): Cascade Longwood – 01 White (about 135 yards)
COLOR B (Gray): Cascade Longwood – 02 Frost Gray (about 95 yards)
COLOR C (Navy): Cascade Longwood – 40 Midnight (about 95 yards)
You’ll also need: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, 12″ pillow insert
Gauge: 11 rows of ribbing (as instructed in the “first ribbing” section of the pattern) should measure 2.5″.
Abbreviations Used: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch) HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below) BLO (back loops only)
Special Stitch: HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:
HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.
(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(3) Pillow is worked in one piece (with color changes). In other words, the ribbing at the bottom is not created and sewn on separately.
(4) You need to make 2. I switched the colors for the color block sections on the second side so that the sides of the pillow would be slightly different (on one side, the herringbone section is gray and the SC+HDC combo section is navy, and vice versa on the other side).
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
SECTION 1: FIRST RIBBING
To begin: With COLOR A (white), CH9.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)
Rows 2-48: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each ST across. (8)
– – – – – – – – –
SECTION 2: BODY OF PILLOW
Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly down the long edge of the ribbing, putting 1SC in each ribbing row (each peak and each valley). (48)
Switch to COLOR B (gray), fasten off previous color.
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (48)
Rows 3-12: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (48)
Row 13: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (48)
Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.
Rows 14-15: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (48)
Switch to COLOR C (navy), fasten off previous color.
Row 16: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (48)
Rows 17-26: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (48)
Row 27: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (48)
Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.
Row 28: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (48)
– – – – – – – – –
SECTION 3: LAST RIBBING
In this section, we will be creating the second ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the body as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 28” quite a bit; that’s the last row of the body of the pillow we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to.
With hook still in your last stitch from Row 28, CH9.
Last Ribbing, Row 1: Turn work and SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. SL ST in the first SC of Row 28, then SL ST in the next SC of Row 28 as well. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 28)
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 28, SC in BLO of each of the 8 STS of the ribbing to create another row of ribbing. (8)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each of the 8 STS of the ribbing to create another row of ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Row 28. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 28)
Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 28, SC in BLO of each of the 8 STS of the ribbing to create another row of ribbing. (8)
Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Row 28. (You should end up with 48 rows of ribbing, which is the number of stitches in Row 28).
– – – – – – – – –
EDGING
Explanation: We need to put a SC edging around the entire pillow. Ideally, we want this to be a perfect square, so we need to make sure that we are putting 48 stitches along each side. The sides with the ribbing are easy; there are 48 rows of ribbing, so we’ll just put 1 stitch in each ribbing row (each peak and each valley). The other two sides are comprised of 44 rows (28 rows in the body + 8 stitches in each ribbing section), so we need to make sure we’re adding 4 stitches to get to 48. To do that, we’ll put 1 SC in each row of the pattern (including one in each of the 8 ribbing stitches) except for the color blocks. The color blocks are each 12 rows tall, so we’re going to put 14 stitches along each color block (just eyeball it the best you can). To get around corners, we’ll simply chain 1.
Here’s a visual:
So, to do this, keep your hook in the final stitch you completed in the second ribbing section. CH1, and SC evenly around the entire piece according to the directions above. When you get back to the beginning, join with a SL ST to the first SC you made.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
– – – – – – – – –
SEWING THEM TOGETHER
Keeping your pillow insert handy, hold the two piece together exactly how you want them to be arranged on the pillow. Pick a spot on the edging and join COLOR A through the same stitch on both pieces. CH1, then SC evenly through both layers around the entire pillow, putting (SC, CH1, SC) in each corner. Once you’ve completed about 3/4 of the perimeter, stuff your pillow insert inside. Continue to SC the rest of the way around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!
Happy Independence Day Weekend to all my American friends! Between the fireworks and campfires, beach trips and barbecues, we definitely know how to celebrate freedom in style.
In honor of this special holiday, I’ve created this fun American flag throw pillow pattern. The front is a combination of 4 smaller squares sewn into the design of an American Flag, with assorted buttons in place of the stars. The back side has its own design:
Don’t worry if you don’t have time to get yours done for the 4th; Americana is in style all year round!
The Yarn
Before we get into the pattern, though, let me talk about this yarn. I used the brand new Vanna’s Style (from Lion Brand), which is a DK (that’s a #3 weight) yarn. When I first heard that Lion Brand was debuting a DK version of Vanna’s Choice, I couldn’t contain my excitement. And when my first skeins came in the mail, I was completely blown away. Seriously, guys — I have never, ever been this excited about a new yarn. It is so soft! And you get 254 yards in a skein, which for a DK weight especially is a great amount. The stitch definition is gorgeous and crocheting with it is easy peasy. All I can say is, get ready for fall and winter, because you’ll definitely be seeing lots of new Little Monkeys patterns with my new favorite yarn.
I haven’t found Vanna’s Style in any of my local stores yet (it really is brand new), but you can always purchase it direct from Lion Brand!
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AMERICANA PILLOW
Level: Easy but involved
Size: Fits a standard 12″ square pillow insert
Hook: E (3.50mm); use whatever hook you need to match gauge.
Gauge: 6 rows of 8 HRDC = 2″ square
Yarn: About 600 yards of Vanna’s Style yarn from Lion Brand. (Vanna’s Style is a #3 DK weight yarn.) I used Red, Ecru, and Navy (less than 1 skein of each).
You’ll also need: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, assorted small buttons in shades of cream/ivory, needle and thread for sewing on buttons, 12″ square throw pillow insert
Abbreviations Used: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HbDC (herringbone double crochet; see “Special Stitch” below)
Special Stitch: HbDC – Herringbone Double Crochet. (If the instructions below are unclear, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here.)
HbDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through first loop on hook. Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over again and pull the loop through both loops on the hook.
Additional Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1/CH2 at the beginning of rows do not count as stitches.
(3) Gauge is important in this pattern. It is not important to use the same hook size as I did; it is very important to choose a hook that allows you to match the gauge listed.
(4) Regarding the front side of the pillow, the red and white striped squares: instead of edging them in all red or all ecru (ivory), I chose to edge mine in both colors, alternating my yarn all the way around the square according to what color stripe I was edging. This may seem like overkill, but the difference in the finished look of the pillow was striking. When I first edged them in the ivory color all the way around, it looked significantly more sloppy. I highly recommend you alternate the colors, as I think you’ll be happier with the professionalism of the finished product.
PATTERN
FRONT SIDE, RED AND WHITE STRIPED SQUARES (MAKE 3)
Finished squares should measure 5.75″ across including edging.
To begin: With RED, CH24.
Row 1: HbDC in 3rd CH from hook and in each CH across. (22) Row 2: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (22) Row 3: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (22) Row 4: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (22)
Switch to ECRU.
Row 5-8: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (22)
Switch to RED.
Rows 9-12: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (22)
Switch to ECRU.
Rows 13-16: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (22)
Fasten off. To weave in ends, let’s determine which side of the square will be the front. If you look at both sides of a square, you’ll notice they are slightly different at their color changes; one side will have a nice definitive color change (albeit slightly jagged), and the other side will show slight overlap at the color changes, where the Ecru may show through the Red stitches a bit or vice versa. Use the side with the nice clear color change as the front of your square, and weave your ends into the backside.
Edging
There are 2 important things to understand about edging these squares. This may sound a little confusing, but hang with me here and use the photo below to clarify what I’m saying. (1) We need to edge these squares nice and evenly, with 22SC around each side of the square. This is easy to do with the top and bottom of the square, but takes a little planning with the left and right edges since there are no evenly-placed stitches to work into. To get 22SC along those left and right edges, we’re going to put 6SC in each Red section, and 5SC in each Ecru section (6+5+6+5=22). (2) As mentioned in the Notes section above, we are edging these squares with alternating Red and Ecru, because the finished look will be much nicer. Yes, it means a few more ends to weave in, but trust me; it will look better. If you need help with switching colors in the middle of a row, Moogly has a great video tutorial here.
So, keeping in mind the explanations above, we’re going to put a nice edging on these squares. We’ve already determined which side of the squares will be the front, so lay a square in front of you with the front side facing you. Attach RED to the rightmost corner of the top Red stripe; CH1. Put 6SC along the short side of that stripe. CH2 (to turn the corner), and SC in each ST along the long side of the Red stripe (22SC). CH2 again, and put 6SC evenly along the remaining edge of that stripe. Switch to ECRU and put 5SC along the short edge of that stripe. Switch back to RED and put 6SC along the short edge of the next red stripe. Continue around the square, then join to the first SC with a SL ST.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
FRONT SIDE, BLUE SQUARE (MAKE 1)
Finished square should measure 5.75″ across including edging.
To begin: With NAVY, CH24.
Row 1: HbDC in 3rd CH from hook and in each CH across. (22) Rows 2-16: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (22)
Edging:
CH1, turn.
1st side: SC evenly along the first edge (22SC); CH2 to round the corner. 2nd side: Notice the horizontal “lines” that were created naturally by the stitch we used; these lines divide the square up into 9 “strips”. To evenly crochet 22SC down this side of the square, place 2SC in the first strip, 3SC in the next, 2 in the next, 3 in the next, alternating all the way down the side for a total of 22SC (2+3+2+3+2+3+2+3+2=22). Use the photo below to guide you. CH2 to round the next corner.
3rd side: SC evenly along the first edge (22SC); CH2 to round the corner. 4th side: Follow instructions for 2nd side (22SC), and CH2 to round the final corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SC.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Buttons
Arrange your buttons on the front side of the blue square and sew them on with yarn and thread. I used a tiny dab of hot glue to affix each one to the square before I sewed any of them, so that they would stay in place during the sewing process. If you don’t have a glue gun handy, you could also snap a photo of the buttons in the layout you want so that you can refer to it as you sew.
BACK SIDE (MAKE 1)
Finished square should measure 11.75″ across including edging.
To begin: With RED, CH48.
Row 1: HbDC in 3rd CH from hook and in each CH across. (46) Row 2: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (46)
Switch to ECRU.
Rows 3-4: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (46)
Switch to NAVY.
Rows 5-6: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (46)
Switch to RED.
Rows 7-32: Continue this pattern, switching colors every 2 rows in a RED, ECRU, and NAVY repetition. (You will end on RED.)
Switch to ECRU.
Row 33: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. Note that this is only a single row of HbDC. (46)
Fasten off RED and NAVY. Leaving ECRUattached, weave all loose ends into the backside of the square, then continue on to Edging (next).
Edging: CH1, do not turn.
1st side: This pillow is divided into 17 stripes or color blocks (yes, we’re including that last row of HbDC in that final count, even though it’s smaller than the rest). We need to crochet 46SC evenly down this side, and we’ll do so by following a pattern of 2-3-3-3 (meaning 2SC in the first stripe, 3SC in the next, 3SC in the next, 3SC in the next, then repeat, all the way down the side). After repeating this sequence a total of 4 times, there will be 1 stripe remaining; we’ll put 2SC in that one. Use the photo below as a visual.
CH2 to round the corner.
2nd side: SC in each ST across (46). CH2 to round the corner. 3rd side: Follow the instructions for the 1st side (46). CH2 to round the corner. 4th side: SC in each ST across (46). CH2 to round the corner. Join to the first SC of Side 1 with a SL ST. Fasten off and weave in.
ASSEMBLING THE FRONT OF THE PILLOW
You should now have 5 squares:
It’s time to make them into a pillow cover!
We’ll start by assembling the front side of the pillow. Lay your squares out in front of you in the layout in which they’ll be sewn together:
We’ll begin with the top two squares. Line up the right edge of the blue square with the left edge of the striped square, and put the squares together, wrong sides touching, right sides facing outward. Attach Ecru in the top corner CH2 spaces (going through both squares) and CH1. SC in same space. SC in only the two inner loops (the ones that are touching each other) of the next ST, leaving the outer loop of each square unworked (see photo below). SC in only the two inner loops of each ST all the way across the edge of the squares. SC in last CH2 space. Do not remove your hook.
We’re going to muster up a little extra hand coordination now in order to attach the bottom two squares. Take the bottom two squares and line them up with each other in the same way you did for the top two squares. Holding the top two squares in your right hand and the bottom two in your left, SC in the top CH2 spaces of both bottom squares, essentially attaching the top two with the bottom two (see photo below).
Continue to SC in only the two inner loops along the edge of the bottom two squares. SC in last CH2 space. All four of your squares should be attached now by a vertical seam, and they should look a little like a butterfly when laid out flat:
CH1, turn. Going back over the seam you just created, SC in the samestitches you did before. Note that you are not adding a new row; you are thickening the row you already did by going over it with a 2nd layer (see photo below).
Fasten off your yarn and weave in the ends.
Next, fold the piece in half at the unseamed center, wrong sides touching, right sides facing out. Reattach Ecru in the CH2 spaces on the right edge, and follow the same instructions to seam the edges together (making sure to SC in each CH2 space, and also to SC in only the two inner loops of the rest of the stitches). Don’t forget to CH1, turn, and SC in the same stitches you did before to give the seam a 2nd layer.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Final Assembly
Hold the front and back sides of the pillow cover together, wrong sides facing each other, right sides facing outward. Attach Ecru in the CH2 space of one of the corners, CH1, and SC in same space. SC around 3 sides of the squares, putting (SC, CH1, SC) in each CH2 corner space. Place pillow insert inside cover and continue to SC along the 4th side, closing the pillow inside. When you get to the corner in which you started, SC and CH1, then SL ST to the very first SC you completed. Fasten off and weave in ends.
PATTERN FAQS
I am already anticipating some of the questions I’ll get about this pattern, so I’m going to answer them here. I’ll add other questions and answers as they come.
Q. Did you carry your yarn on the striped sections, or fasten off and reattach each time?
A. I started out fastening off, but did switch to carrying. It really depends on what you’re most comfortable with. As long as you’re careful to not let the carried yarn pull on the edges, and you know how to hide it when you edge your squares and keep it concealed with you sew the pillow together, you’ll be fine if you carry it.
Q. Do I have to edge the red & white striped squares in both colors, or can I just edge them all in ecru (ivory)? A. You don’t have to do what I did; I just highly recommend it for a nicer finished look. If it’s too overwhelming for you, then yes, feel free to just do a simple ivory edging.
Q. How can I make this for a larger pillow?
A. Unfortunately, due to the involved nature of the pattern, it’s quite a bit more complicated than simply starting with a longer chain. If you want to make the pattern for a larger pillow insert, you’ll need to figure out the changes on your own.
Q. Is there a video tutorial for this pattern? A. No, sorry! 🙂
Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!
I love throw pillows! They’re so simple to make, and they add so much character to a couch or bed.
For this pillow, I used 220 Superwash from Cascade Yarns (in “Ridge Rock”). This is a popular yarn from Cascade, and it’s my first experience with it. I absolutely love it! It’s soft, but sturdy. It was perfect for the pillow, but would also be great for a hat or scarf. I love that the yarn is not dull-looking, but is still matte enough that it shows off stitch work wonderfully. Click here to see all of the beautiful colors available!
I decided to accent this pillow with a pop of color using three fabric flowers from Hobby Lobby:
The great thing about these flowers is that they’re actually hair clips; so they’re super easy to attach to the pillow, and are completely rearrangeable/removable. If my decor changes, I can simply find different fabric flower clips. So simple!
Enjoy this easy pattern!
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12″ THROW PILLOW (WITH REMOVABLE FLOWER ACCENTS)
Level: Easy
Size: Pattern will fit a standard 12″ throw pillow insert. (Instructions for adjusting the size are including in the Notes section.)
Hook: H (5.00mm)
Yarn: 310-320 yards of 220 Superwash from Cascade Yarns (sample shown in “Ridge Rock”). 220 Superwash is a #4 worsted weight yarn.
Abbreviations Used: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
Notes: (1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) To make the pattern for a larger or smaller pillow, just make sure to begin with an odd number of chains. Your starting chain and first row, when gently stretched, should come just short of the seams of your insert pillow (keeping in mind that you’ll be adding a couple small rows of border at the end).
PATTERN (MAKE 2):
To begin: CH 45.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each CH across. (44) Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (44) Row 3: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44) Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44) Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (44) Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (44) Row 7: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44) Row 8: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44) Rows 9-44: Repeat Rows 5-8. (44)
Edging: CH1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. You should have 44 SC on each side.
Sewing Sides Together: Hold both sides together as you want them to be placed on the pillow. Join your yarn through both pieces, somewhere on the edge (I started in a corner). Ch1, then SC through the lined-up stitches from both pieces, seaming them together:
Continue around 3 sides of the pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Insert pillow. Continue to SC along the remaining side, enclosing the pillow completely. Join with a Sl St to the first SC of the round, fasten off and weave in ends.
Ever since I made my first throw pillow, the 12″ Buttoned Throw Pillow, I’ve been on a bit of a pillow kick. Once I made one, about a dozen ideas for different ones started flooding into my head. The thing I love about crocheted throw pillows is that you can make them whatever color you want to match your decor, and between all the crochet stitches and color schemes out there, the design possibilities are endless. They’re a nice break from all the hats and scarves I’ve been making all winter, too!
This new throw pillow pattern is super cute, if I do say so myself. It utilizes the basketweave stitch, which looks so much more complicated than it really is. Even if you’re a beginner, give it a try. You might surprise yourself, and you’ll certainly impress your family and friends!
One thing I’ve learned in the process of making throw pillows is that they fit over the inserts the best when they’re just slightly smaller in length than the insert itself. So for this 12″ pillow, I edged both sides in SC until they were about 11.75″ (that’s width, not corner-to-corner). Any larger than that, and I’ve found that the edges get wavy and floppy and just don’t lay as nicely. So for this pattern, although I SC’d around the 3 times, you should measure your piece before edging and only add as many rounds of edging as you need to get to about 11.75″. You might need more or less than I did.
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BASKETWEAVE THROW PILLOW
Hook: H (5.00mm) Yarn: About 340 yards (170 yards for each side) of your favorite medium worsted weight yarn Difficulty: Easy Gauge: 7DC per 2″. If yours is slightly tighter, it’s not going to matter because I’ve given instructions on the “edging” section that will help you adapt the pattern to get to the right measurements. If your tension is looser than mine, however, you’ll want to adjust your hook size down. You’ll also need: 12″ throw pillow insert (I got mine at Hobby Lobby), tape measure, yarn needle and scissors.
Notes: (1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting Ch2 DOES count as 1st stitch of each row.
PATTERN (MAKE 2):
Ch 37.
Row 1: DC in 3rd Ch from hook. Dc across. (36, including starting Ch)
Row 2: Ch 2; turn. Skipping 1st DC from previous row (see photo), FPDC in next 3 Sts. (BPDC in next 4 Sts, FPDC in next 4 Sts) across. (36)
Row 3: Ch 2; turn. Skipping 1st DC from previous row, BPDC in next 3 Sts. (FPDC in next 4 Sts, BPDC in next 4 Sts) across. (36)
Row 4: Ch 2; turn. Skipping 1st DC from previous row, BPDC in next 3 Sts. (FPDC in next 4 Sts, BPDC in next 4 Sts) across. (36)
Row 5: Ch 2; turn. Skipping 1st DC from previous row, FPDC in next 3 Sts. (BPDC in next 4 Sts, FPDC in next 4 Sts) across. (36)
Rows 6-?: Repeat rows 2-5 until the length is approximately the same as the width. (Mine took 26 rows. Since you’re making two of these, be sure to crochet the same number of rows for both pillow pieces.)
Edging:
Round 1: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. (NOTE: Two of your sides will have exactly 36 stitches, and your goal is to get as close to that as you can on the other two sides, so that you’ll end up with a perfect or close-to-perfect square. You may have to do a little visual math here. I did it by dividing the side into fourths – you can place a bobbie pin in the center, and then again in the center of each half, to help you visualize this. Then, because
36 (stitches) ÷ 4 (sections) = 9
…I put 9 SCs in each section. I know, I’m such a nerd, but I made you a diagram.)
Round 2: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting 3SC in each corner (which would be the middle SC from the previous round’s 3 corner SCs). Join with Sl St to 1st SC.
Measure your width. If it’s not 11.75″ yet, repeat Round 2 until it is.
For Pillow Side 1, fasten off and weave in ends. For Pillow Side 2, do not fasten off; weave in only your starting end, and continue to sewing instructions.
Sewing the Pillow Together:
Hold both pillow pieces together with the unfinished one closest to you, wrong sides facing each other, right sides facing out. (If you’re a perfectionist, you may want to make sure that the stitches from both pieces are going in the same direction, although it won’t affect assembly either way.) Insert your hook into the loop of the unfinished side, then slip stitch through the top loops of both pillow pieces. Ch1. Working through both pillow pieces throughout, SC in same St and evenly around 3 sides, putting 3SC in each corner. When you finish the 3rd side, insert your pillow. Continue to SC around the final side, sewing the pillow shut. Fasten off and weave in ends.
I’ve been watching a lot of HGTV lately. We purchased our first house this past fall, and for the first time in my life, I have the final say (well, with the husband of course) on what my home looks like! We’ve already tackled our dining room, painting it the most beautiful shade of blue. Next on the list? The living room! While it’ll take us a little while to save the money for this next makeover, that doesn’t stop me from imagining the possibilities. So, when I see the big reveals on shows like Fixer Upper (my favorite!) and Love It Or List It (also a great one), I can’t help but analyze all of their design choices and make mental notes of which ones would fit nicely into my own dream living room.
One thing I know for sure about my living room makeover is that I want it to incorporate a few of my own handmade items. I can definitely see my Mason Jar Cozy up on the fireplace mantel, and a larger version of my Sweet Ocean Breeze blanket draped over the couch. This newest project, the Buttoned Throw Pillow, is just one more way to incorporate my yarn obsession into the space!
This pattern is for a 12″ throw pillow, but it’s not difficult to make bigger (or smaller). I’ve included those directions in the notes section of the pattern.
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All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
12″ BUTTONED THROW PILLOW
Hook: H (5.00mm) Yarn: About 260 yards (130 per side) of your favorite medium worsted weight yarn Difficulty: Easy Gauge: 4 rows of 4 SC = 1 square inch You’ll also need: 12″ uncovered throw pillow (I got mine at Hobby Lobby), yarn needle, decorative buttons of your choice, and tools to attach buttons.
Notes: (1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) The buttons are decorative only, so I didn’t worry about adding button holes. If you wanted to make this a removable pillowcase, you could probably figure it out pretty easily. I really wanted the raised seam look all the way around the pillow so I opted not to overlap the fabric.
(3) To make the pattern for a larger or smaller pillow, just make sure to begin with an odd number of chains. Your starting chain and first row, when stretched, should barely touch both seams of your insert pillow (keeping in mind that you’ll be adding a couple small rows of border at the end).
PATTERN FOR FRONT SIDE:
Ch 37. Row 1: SC in 2nd Ch from hook and in each Ch across. (36) Row 2: Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across. (36) Rows 3-6: Repeat Row 2. Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Sk 1st St. SC+DC in next St. (Sk next St, SC+DC in next St) across. (36) Rows 8-36: Repeat Row 7.
Edging: Round 1: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. You should have 36 SC on each side. Round 2: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. You should have 38 SC on each side. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Finishing: Attach buttons evenly spaced down the 1st 6 rows of the pillow (where you did the SCs only).
PATTERN FOR BACK SIDE:
Ch 37. Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd Ch from hook. (Sk next St, SC+DC in next St) across. (36) Row 2: Ch 1. Sk 1st St. SC+DC in next St. (Sk next St, SC+DC in next St) across. (36) Rows 3-36: Repeat Row 2.
Edging: Round 1: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. You should have 36 SC on each side. Round 2: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. You should have 38 SC on each side. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Sewing Sides Together: Hold both sides together as you want them to be placed on the pillow. Join your yarn through both pieces, somewhere on the edge (I started in a corner). Ch1, then SC through the lined-up stitches from both pieces, seaming them together. Continue around 3 sides of the pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Insert pillow. Continue to SC along the remaining side, enclosing the pillow completely. Join with a Sl St to the first SC of the round, fasten off and weave in ends.
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