© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

I recently discovered Cascade Yarn’s Longwood Sport when I used it to make the South Haven Slouch pattern last month. I really fell in love with it, and wanted to work with it again. As a newbie crocheter, I always avoided patterns with anything thinner than worsted weight yarn because I thought it would take forever to work up. But eventually, I branched out and discovered that I actually love the look of  items crocheted with thinner yarn. I encourage you to try it if you haven’t already!

This slouchy hat, called the Yenni Slouch (that’s pronounced like the English “Jenny”, by the way) is named after my beautiful niece who is modeling it in the photo. It also has a pair of matching boot cuffs — which, conveniently, are basically just little versions of the hat!

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YENNI SLOUCH

Level: Easy

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 10” across at band, and is 9” tall.

Materials:

• H hook (5.00mm) and G hook (4.25mm)
• Yarn needle
• Cascade Yarns Longwood Sport*, 250-270 yards. The color in the photos is Doeskin Heather.
  *About Longwood Sport:
    Weight: #3 light
                Fiber: 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool
  Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 273 yds (250 m)
  Gauge: 22-24 sts = 4″ (10 cm), US 5-6 (3.75-4.0mm)
• Button embellishment (mine is 1-1/8″)

Gauge: With H hook, 4HDC = 1″

Stitches Used:
CH (chain)
SS (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using H Hook, and leaving a 12″ tail, CH29.

Row 1:  SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (28)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (28)

Row 3: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (28)

Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 26 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (28)

Row 5: CH1, turn. Working in 3rd loops, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (28)

Rows 6-72: Repeat Rows 2-5 in order until you have 72 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4).

Switch to G hook.

Row 73: CH1, DO NOT turn. Begin to SC down the LONG edge of the project, putting 5SC in each section between ribbing rows (see photo below for a visual). You should end up with 90SC. Then, CH 11 to create the base of your button flap.

Row 74: Turn your work. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Continue to SC across. (100)

Rows 75-84: CH1, turn. SC across. (100)

Row 85 (edging): CH1, turn. SC across (100). Putting (SC, CH1, SC) in both corners, continue to SC around the edge of the button flap. Stop when you get here:

Sewing the hat together
Fasten off your yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a yarn needle, sew the ends of the hat together. Utilize the 3rd loop of the edge with the HDCs in order to blend the seam in so it is hardly noticeable:

Once you get to the top of the hat, make a knot and weave in the end.

Cinching the top
Turn your hat inside out. Use your starting tail to cinch the top of the hat by threading it through a yarn needle and weaving the needle in and out along the top edge of the hat at even intervals. Once you’ve gone all the way around, pull the tail tight and insert your yarn needle across the cinched area a few times to really keep it closed, then make a knot and weave in the end. Turn your hat right-side out again.

Finishing the Button Flap
We still need to sew our button flap in place and attach our button. Using a needle and appropriately-colored thread, position the button flap in place and sew along its 3 edges to secure it. Use your needle and thread to attach your button as well.

© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Thank you to Lion Brand for providing the yarn for this pattern sample!

I’ve always had a picture in my head of a slouch hat that I wanted to create, that had a very slooooooooow, graaaaaadual color change. I looked into the possibility of dip-dying the finished hat, but it looked like more effort than it was worth. (Plus, I’m lazy.) Then, just recently, I found out about Lion Brand’s new yarn – Scarfie! As soon as I saw it, I knew it was The One. The perfect yarn for the hat I wanted to create.

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About the Yarn

Each skein of Scarfie has very gradual color changes between two colors. I immediately gravitated to the Cream/Taupe, because, well, I’m a sucker for a good taupe color. Each skein has 312 yards of bulky weight yarn, so you’ve got plenty to make a beautiful, somewhat-ombre-style scarf.

But we’re not making a scarf today.

Nope, today we’re going to use that beautiful Scarfie yarn to make a hat! Sometimes, you just gotta do the unexpected. 🙂

This pattern is a very simple slouch pattern. But paired with the gorgeous gradual color changes of Scarfie, it becomes completely unique! It just goes to show you how yarn choice can make all the difference.

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About the Name

I named this pattern the “Macchiato Slouch” because the combination of the yarn color and the gradual fade made me think back to my days as a barista. One of my favorite drinks was an iced caramel macchiato — vanilla syrup, milk, and a couple shots of espresso and caramel drizzle to mark the top (macchiato means marked in Italian). So instead of the espresso instantly mixing with milk, as it would in a latte, the espresso sits on top of it until it sloooooowly blends in from the top-down. Now, the next time you to go your local coffee shop, you can wow them with your knowledge… and with your new hat!

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MACCHIATO SLOUCH HAT

Level: Easy

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 9.5” across at band, and is 9” tall.

Materials:

• N hook (9.00mm) and I hook (5.50mm)
• Yarn needle
• Lion Brand Scarfie Yarn (I used Cream/Taupe), about 140 yards, which is less than half a skein – so you can make two! (Scarfie is a bulky weight yarn.)
• Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)
• Button (1-1.5″) and tools to attach it

Gauge:
With N hook, 7HDC = 3″

Stitches Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
CH (chain)
SS (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)

Notes:

(1) This hat is worked in a continuous spiral until the band. Do not join, chain or turn until instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
(2) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(3) The button and button flap on this hat are just decorative (they don’t actually function). There is no buttonhole, and at the end, we’ll just sew everything neatly in place.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using N Hook, make a magic circle.

Round 1:  10 HDC in MC (10)

Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around (20)

Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around (40)

Note: At this point, it’s going to start looking wavy. You’re doing it right! The back of the hat has a faux-cinched look to it, and this is how we achieve it. Once you get to the body of the hat, it will start to straighten itself out naturally.

Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (60)

Rounds 5-15: HDC around (60)

Switch to I hook.

Round 16: SC around (60). CH7.

From this point on, we will be working in turned rounds. We still won’t be joining.

Round 17: Turn your work. Working down the back side of the CH7, SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH, then continue to SC around the hat (you’re now crocheting in the opposite direction as the previous round) until you reach the beginning again. (66)

Rounds 18-22: CH1, turn. SC around. (66)

Edging: CH1. SC around the entire band of the hat, including the button flap, putting (SC,CH1,SC) in each corner.

Fasten off, leaving a 12″ tail. Use the tail to gently sew the button flap in place, then weave in all ends securely. Attach decorative button in place with yarn or a needle and thread.

© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Thank you to Lion Brand for providing the yarn for this pattern sample.

As far as social media is concerned, my Cinched Ear Warmer has been one of my top all-time most popular patterns. It’s one of my earlier ones, and when I made it, I knew there were so many options for changing it up. I just never got around to it until now! This new version begins with the same cinched style, but a ribbing stitch gives it a unique look.

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The Yarn

I use Heartland in a lot of my patterns because I love everything about it – the weight (it’s worsted, but feels light), the colors (I’m a sucker for natural hues) and the sheen (not too shiny, not too dull). After the first sample, I decided that this pattern might look awesome in two colors. I didn’t want it to look striped so much as two-toned, so I chose two colors that were pretty close in shade – “Katmai” and “Grand Canyon”. Click here to view the full range of colors available.

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All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

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RIBBED CINCHED EARWARMER

Level: Easy

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Earwarmer measures 18” around, and is 3” wide.

Materials:

• H hook (5.00mm)
• About 60 yards of Lion Brand Heartland* (Samples are shown in Glacier Bay and Katmai/Grand Canyon)
  *About Heartland:
    Weight: #4 worsted
                Fiber: 100% Acrylic
  Yardage: 5oz/142g (251yd/230m)
  Gauge: 12 sc + 15 rows = 4 inches on size J-10 [6 mm] hook
• Yarn needle

Gauge:
With H hook, 4 HDC = 1″

Stitches Used:
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
FHDC (foundation half double crochet – click here for a tutorial)
RibHDC (also known as Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC; see Special Stitch, below)

Special Stitch:
RibHDC – instead of putting your HDC in the top loops, find the 3rd loop. Because we’re working in turned rows, the third loop will be located just underneath the front loop. Insert your hook there and create your HDC. This forces both of the top loops to rest on the front of your project, creating a ribbing effect. It is also referred to as a Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC. (Confused? You can view a photo tutorial here.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) Starting chains do not count as stitches.
(3) This pattern is easily adjusted to any head size. 68 STS was perfect for me, but you might want to wrap the first round around your head as you go to get the perfect fit for you.
(4) For the tan-colored sample in the photos, I actually used two different colors of Heartland (Katmai and Grand Canyon). I switched colors every other row, and carried my yarn instead of fastening it off each time.

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With H hook,

Round 1: FHDC 68. Join to the first FHDC with a slip stitch, being careful not to twist the row.
(Or, if you don’t like the Foundation Chain method,  just CH 69, HDC in second CH from hook and HDC across.)

Round 2: CH1, turn. RibHDC around. Join with a SL ST to first RibHDC. (68)

Rounds 3-12: Repeat Round 2.

Cut your yarn, leaving about a 12″ tail, and finish off but don’t weave in the tail. Use your yarn needle to sew up the first round of FDCs, then weave in that tail and cut.

To Cinch:
Please note that the photos below are taken from my original Cinched EarWarmer pattern, so the pattern looks slightly different, but it’s the same concept.)

1. Thread the long tail through your yarn needle. Gather the seamed section of the headband, and fold in half so that the fold is facing you.

2. Bring either side up to the top of the fold and hold secure with your fingers.

3. Run your yarn needle through all three sections of gathered material. The closer you get to the surface, the better your cinch will look; so I run mine right under the top loops of the outer sections, and under just a few strands of the center fold.

4. Wrap the yarn around the underside of the cinch, then through the sections again. Do this a few times to secure the cinch, then tie off underneath and weave in the tail.

Project status: Complete | Hats collected: 565

Please note that this pattern was originally a part of the Hats for the Homeless campaign from 2015. We are no longer collecting hats for this project, but the pattern can still be found below!

BASIC MEN’S HAT SEAMLESS CROCHET PATTERN

Hook: I (5.50mm)
Yarn: Soft worsted weight yarn (I typically use Hobby Lobby’s “I Love This Yarn” or Lion Brand’s “Vanna’s Choice”)
Difficulty: Easy

Notes:

• You will work in a continuous round. You will not join or turn. Use a stitch marker to keep track of your rows.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

With I hook, make a Magic Circle (also known as an Adjustable Loop).

Round 1: 8 HDC in magic circle. Do not join. (8)
Round 2: 2 HDC in first St from Round 1 and in each stitch around (16)
Round 3: (2 HDC in next St; 1 HDC in next) around (24)
Round 4: (2 HDC in next St; 1 HDC in each of the next 2 St) around (32)
Round 5: (2 HDC in next St; 1 HDC in each of the next 3 St) around (40)
Round 6: (2 HDC in next St; 1 HDC in each of the next 4 St) around (48)
Round 7: (2 HDC in next St; 1 HDC in each of the next 5 St) around (56)
Rounds 8-21: 1 HDC in each St around (56)
Rounds 22-25: 1 SC in each St around (56)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

A new slouch hat pattern! YAY!

I love slouch hats. And you guys must, too, because the Jenny Slouch quickly became one of my most popular patterns of all time (“all time”, of course, referring to the one year I’ve been blogging). There’s just something about a cute slouch that makes you feel extra adorable when you’re out in the cold. And it’s a great way to hide a bad hair day, which – as a tired mom of two toddler boys – is almost a daily thing for me.

Here’s a new slouch pattern I’ve been working on, and it even has a matching cowl that I think you’ll also love, which I originally designed for All Free Crochet’s blog, Stitch & Unwind!

The button on the hat is purely decorative, meaning there’s no buttonhole. (I figure, why go to the trouble of making it functional, when you’re never going to need to unbutton it, anyway?)

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

SANDY SLOUCH

Hooks: K (6.5mm) and I (5.5mm)
Yarn: About 175 yards of worsted weight acrylic yarn; I used <1 skein of Lion Brand Heartland in “Grand Canyon”. (Heartland is a lighter worsted weight yarn, comparable to Bernat Satin or Red Heart Soft, so if you use something a little thicker like Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn it may turn out slightly larger.)
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: A round of HDCs will = 1″. So, when you complete your 6th and final increase round, it should measure about 6″ in diameter.
Finished Size: Approximately 10″ tall, and 9.5″ wide
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker (such as a bobby pin), 1″ button and materials to attach button

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round until the band, when it becomes turned rounds. Do not join, chain or turn unless instructed to do so.
(3) Some have struggled with understanding that is happening once you get to the band and button area, so here’s an explanation I replied with in the comments section that seemed to help, and you can come back to this if you get tripped up too. What you’re doing in Round 21 is setting the base for your flap. Because of the flap, we are not able to work in continuous or joined rounds. We’re just going to be going back and forth, building the band, including the flap. (Which is why the stitch totals switch from 60 to 66, because we created 6 additional stitches with our CH7.) So in Round 22, you’re SCing back down that CH7 that you’ve just made, and then continuing on all the way around the hat until you reach the end of that round. (Technically it would be considered a row at this point, but I thought that would be even more confusing.) Then you’ll CH1 and turn, and SC back around the hat, all the way back up to the top of the CH7 section you made, then CH1, turn around and SC back down the flap and around the hat. You’re going to keep doing this until the pattern tells you to stop, and you will end up with a flap that is the same thickness as the band.

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THE PATTERN

To begin: With K hook, make a magic circle (view a tutorial here).

Round 1: 10 HDC in magic circle. (10)

Round 2: 2HDC in each ST around. (20)

Round 3: (2HDC in next ST, HDC in next ST) around. (30)

Round 4: (2HDC in next ST, HDC in next 2 STS) around. (40)

Round 5: (2HDC in next ST, HDC in next 3 STS) around. (50)

Round 6: (2HDC in next ST, HDC in next 4 STS) around. (60)

Round 7: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (60)

Rounds 8-20: Repeat Round 7.

Round 21: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) 29 times (until you only have 2 STS left in the round). SC in next ST, SL ST in next ST. CH7. (60)
(Note: the CH7 will form the base of our button flap.)

Switch to I hook. You will now crochet the band of the hat, and we want it to be a little snug so that it doesn’t fall off.

Round 22: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Continue to SC around. (66)

Rounds 23-29: CH1, turn. SC around. (66)

Finishing: CH1 (do NOT turn). SC around the entire edge of the hat, including the button flap, putting 2SC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Button: Place your button in the center of the flap and, using yarn or thread, secure it through both layers (the flap and the band underneath).