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The idea for this easy belt came when I bought a dress for an upcoming autumn wedding. I loved the dress but it was a busy fabric from top to bottom, and I felt like it needed something to break it up a bit. I was hesitant to crochet anything because I wanted it to stay really simple and modern looking, but I decided to take on the challenge with some pretty mustard-colored yarn I had leftover from my Little Rustic Pumpkins.

I looked all over the place for a belt buckle clasp that would really up the fashion factor, and was delighted when I found this cute, modern clasp on Etsy! (Here’s my affiliate link for My Chic Mercerie on Etsy; at the time of publishing, her shop is taking a mini break, but she’ll be back soon.)

So here’s the outfit all put together. What do you think? (I think I need to remake this belt in several colors for other outfits!)

I actually bought the dress on Amazon and I LOVE it. (It has pockets!!) Here’s my affiliate link if you want to shop for one of your own. It comes in all kinds of pretty designs; I also got one with a black top and black/white plaid bottom. (I’m thinking I’ll make an aqua-colored belt for that one to give it a pop of color!)

VIDEO TUTORIAL

I’ve put together a step-by-step video tutorial for you visual learners! The instructions for the pattern are written right on the screen, so you can follow along visually while also developing your pattern-reading skills. It’s a feature I’ve gotten lots of compliments for on my videos, so it’s definitely worth the extra effort it takes to include it!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

CROCHETED WAIST BELT

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: You decide!

Hook: C (2.75mm)

Yarn: #3 DK weight. How much you’ll need will totally depend on how wide and long you make your belt; but for reference, I made a 34″ x 2.75″ belt and used about 160 yards of Yarn Bee Must Be Merino (in “Gold”).

Gauge: Done in 3rd loops, 14 HDC x 9 rows = 2″ square. Gauge is not important as long as you’re measuring against your buckle closure and your body as you go.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, belt buckle clasp (I bought mine from My Chic Mercerie on Etsy)

Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
CH (chain)
HDC (half double crochet)
3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

Special Stitches:

3rd Loop Only
Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) When determining the length your belt should be, keep in mind that (1) the belt will stretch quite a few inches, and (2) the buckle will account for part of the length, as well. It is best to measure your belt around the small of your waist as you go. 

INSTRUCTIONS

To begin: CH to a length about 1/2″ shorter than the width of your belt buckle clasp opening. (I chained 16.)

Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH.

Row 2: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. HDC 3rd loops of all but the final ST. HDC (in top loops) of final ST.

Repeat Row 2 until belt is the length you want it to be; be sure to work an even number of rows.

Edging

Have metal clasps ready, then follow the instructions. Each bullet represents one side of the belt. 

• CH1, do not turn. Working down the long edge, put 3SC (in a single spot) between each row of ribbing (see image).
  
• Working through belt buckle opening, SC into each ST along short side of belt.
  
• Working down next long edge, put 3SC (in a single spot) between each row of ribbing to the end.
• Working through 2nd belt buckle opening, making sure you attach it so that it will clasp correctly with the buckle at the other end, SC into each ST along short side of belt.

Join with a SL ST to top of first SC of edging.

Double check to ensure buckles clasp correctly, then fasten off and weave in ends.

– – – – – – – – – –

Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #crochetedwaistbelt and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!

 This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection, please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

Boot cuffs are such an understated way to add a finishing touch to a cozy indoor or outdoor outfit. And they’re so quick to work up, you’ll want to make a pair in several colors!

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VIDEO TUTORIAL

If you need a little extra help with any of the stitches in the pattern, I created a video tutorial for previous Malia patterns in which I crocheted up a swatch of the stitch pattern. You might find it useful to scan through the tutorial if you find yourself stuck at any point!

Free Printable Tags

I made some cute printable labels for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting these boot cuffs, a label just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. Print on cardstock for best results!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

MALIA BOOT CUFFS

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Sizes: 5″ tall x 12″ around (see notes for adjustment instructions)

Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

Yarn: 160 yards (total for a pair of boot cuffs) of #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Sugared Oats”.

Gauge: To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

Pattern for Gauge:
CH17.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 2 decorative buttons

Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
BLO (back loop only)
3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

Special Stitches:

Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

3rd Loop Only
Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) A video tutorial for the stitch pattern is available up in the post, or by clicking here.
(4) To make boot cuffs taller, simply adjust your starting chain, being sure to begin with an odd number of chains, and add the extra height to the section between the two ribbings. To make boot cuffs larger around, continue the repeats section until they are the width you prefer, being sure to end on a row of HDC for best seaming results.

INSTRUCTIONS (MAKE 2)

To begin: CH21.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (20)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 6 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

Row 4: Ch1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 6 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

Row 8: Ch1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

Row 10: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

Row 11: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 6 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

Row 12: Ch1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

Row 13: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

Row 14: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

Row 15: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 6 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

Row 16: Ch1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 12 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in final ST. (20)

Rows 17-48: Repeat Rows 9-16, in order, 4 times. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Seaming
Bring short edges together, wrong side facing out. Seam the edges together, starting with the first 4 stitches of ribbing, then the body of the cuffs (using your yarn needle to go under the 3rd loop of the HDC row and across to the corresponding stitch on the other side), then finishing with the last 4 stitches of ribbing. This will create a row of raised top loops along your seam, ensuring that it will blend in with the rest of the similar rows. (This technique is demonstrated on the video tutorial for the Malia Beanie + Slouch at the 42:00 mark.)  Fasten off and weave in both ends.

Buttons (optional)
Attach a decorative button to the top ribbing of each cuff.

Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliabootcuffs and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

One thing I’ve learned about my fans is that you love patterns that come in sets. I released the Comfy Squares Textured Cowl last month and several of you asked for the boot cuff pattern that I’d mentioned in the blog post that I was planning to make. I finally got around to writing it down!

Click here for the original cowl pattern, or scroll down for the boot cuff pattern.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

COMFY SQUARES TEXTURED BOOT CUFFS

Size:
 Small (12″ around and 5″ tall); instructions for adjusting for different sizes are included.
Gauge:
 With G hook, 10SC = 2” in length
Hook: G (4.25mm)
Yarn: 150-160 yards of #3 light weight yarn (such as Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn Sport)
You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:
  CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) It is crocheted as a flat piece, then seamed at the end.
(3) CH1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.
(4) The phrase “(SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 7 times” means 7 times total.
(5) Only crochet in BLO (back loops only) when specifically instructed.

Instructions for different sizes:
Making these larger (or smaller) is simple — instead of repeating rows 2-3 until piece measures 12″ in length as instructed, simply repeat until the cuffs are the length you need. You can also add to the height of the cuffs by increasing your starting chain (keep it an odd number), and including those added stitches in the (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) section.

PATTERN (MAKE 2)

To begin:
CH25.

Row 1:  SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 7 times. SC in each of the last 4 STS. (24)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 7 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in last ST. (24)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 7 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in last ST. (24)

Rows 4-53 (or until piece measures 12″ in length): Repeat rows 2-3. (24)

Fasten off, leaving a 12″ tail. Use your yarn needle and finishing tail to seam both ends of the cuff together. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

When I completed the pattern for the Yenni Slouch (that’s pronounced like the English “Jenny”, by the way), I had a good amount of Cascade Yarns Longwood Sport left over. So naturally, I decided to make some matching boot cuffs. I am so glad I did… I think they’re the perfect compliment to the hat!

What I really love about these boot cuffs is that, thanks to the #3 weight yarn, they don’t feel as bulky as your standard worsted weight boot cuff patterns tend to. They slip under your boot almost like a super soft, thick sock.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

THE YENNI BOOT CUFFS

Level: Easy

Size:
Small (but easily adjustable) – cuffs measure about 5″ tall and 12″ around

Materials:

• G hook (4.25mm)
• Cascade Yarns Longwood Sport*, 190-200 yards. The color in the photos is Doeskin Heather.
  *About Longwood Sport:
    Weight: #3 light
                Fiber: 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool
  Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 273 yds (250 m)
  Gauge: 22-24 sts = 4″ (10 cm), US 5-6 (3.75-4.0mm)
• Yarn needle
• 2 buttons (1″ or smaller), plus tools to attach buttons to boot cuffs

Gauge: With G hook, 9HDC = 2″

Stitches Used:
CH (chain)
SS (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) Because of the button flap embellishment and the fact that we want it to be on opposing sides of the cuffs (so that it is visible on the outer sides of the wearer’s legs), we have to construct the two cuffs a little differently. Please note that there are two patterns below, one for each cuff.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

CUFF #1

To begin:
CH19.

Row 1:  SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

Row 3: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 16 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (18)

Row 5: CH1, turn. In 3rd loop, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

Rows 6-44: Repeat Rows 2-5 in order until you have 44 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4). (18)

Note: If you want to make larger boot cuffs, continue to repeat rows 2-5 until they are the width you desire. For best results, make sure you still end on a repeat of Row 4.

Row 45: CH1, DO NOT turn. Begin to SC down the LONG edge of the project, putting 5SC in each section between ribbing rows (see photo below for a visual). You should end up with 55SC (unless you decided to make your boot cuffs larger – this is fine). Then, CH 7.

Row 46: Turn your work. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Continue to SC across. (61)

Rows 47-50: CH1, turn. SC across. (61)

Row 51 (edging): CH1, turn. SC across (61). Putting (SC, CH1, SC) in both corners, continue to SC around the edge of the button flap. Stop when you get here (please note that this photo is actually from the Yenni Slouch pattern, which is why the band looks so wide, but it’s the same concept):

Sewing the boot cuff closed
Fasten off your yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a yarn needle, sew the ends of the cuff together. Utilize the 3rd loop of the edge with the HDCs in order to blend the seam in so it is hardly noticeable (again, this photo is from the Yenni Slouch pattern, but same concept):

Once you get to the bottom of the cuff, make a knot, fasten off and weave in all ends.

Optional Lower Edging: The bottom of the boot cuffs won’t show, but I like my projects to have a nice finished look, especially if I’m planning on selling them. If you want to give your boot cuffs a clean, finished look as well, go ahead and reattach your yarn, and add a row or two of SC around the bottom edge of the cuff, following the “5SC between each ribbing section” rule of thumb you used in Row 45. Fasten off and weave in your ends.

Use a needle and thread to sew your button flap in place, then attach your button.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

CUFF #2

Please note, Rows 1-44 are identical to Cuff #1.

To begin:
Leaving a 12″ starting tail (to use later), CH19.

Row 1:  SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

Row 3: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 16 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (18)

Row 5: CH1, turn. In 3rd loop, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)

Rows 6-44: Repeat Rows 2-5 in order until you have 44 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4). (18)

Note: If you increased the width of Cuff #1, make sure you do the same with Cuff #2.

Row 45: Ch7. You are now going to begin working down the long side of your cuff. SC in 2nd CH from hook, and in each remaining CH. Then continue to SC down the long edge, putting 5SC in each section between ribbing rows (see photo from Cuff #1 for a visual).

Rows 46-50: CH1, turn. SC across. (61)

Row 51 (edging): Fasten off and weave in the end. Then, attach your yarn in the inner corner of the button flap, as shown below, and – working on the right side of the boot cuff (the side with the ribbing) – SC around the button flap and across the length of the cuff, putting (SC,CH1,SC) in each corner. When you reach the other end, fasten off.

Sewing the boot cuff closed
Using a yarn needle and your starting tail, sew the ends of the cuff together. Utilize the 3rd loop of the edge with the HDCs in order to blend the seam in so it is hardly noticeable. (See photo from Cuff #1 for help.)

Make a knot, fasten off and weave in all ends.

Optional Lower Edging: The bottom of the boot cuffs won’t show, but I like my projects to have a nice finished look, especially if I’m planning on selling them. If you want to give your boot cuffs a clean, finished look as well, go ahead and reattach your yarn, and add a row or two of SC around the bottom edge of the cuff, following the “5SC between each ribbing section” rule of thumb you used in Row 45. Fasten off and weave in your ends.

Use a needle and thread to sew your button flap in place, then attach your button.

Boot cuffs have become increasingly popular over the past couple of years, and the trend doesn’t seem to be slowing down a bit. It’s probably because they are such a simply cute way to bring an outfit together. And for us crocheters, they’re quick and easy to make.

The Maribel Boot Cuffs pair perfectly with the Maribel Cowl, and can even be made from the yarn you’ll have left over from making the cowl. This set has quickly become a favorite of mine, and I hope you’ll love it, too!

The pattern below is for size small boot cuffs. It is worked in a way that allows you to easily increase their size, by merely adding more rows until they are the length you prefer.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

MARIBEL BOOT CUFFS

Hook: I (5.50 mm)
Yarn: Worsted (For 2 cuffs, size small, I used about 150 yards of Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in “linen”)
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: A row of 8 HDC = about 2″
Finished Size: Approximately 13″ around before sewing, and 6″ tall
Other Materials Needed: 10 small buttons, needle and thread for embellishing, yarn needle

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern uses a stitch I call RibHDC, in which you complete your half double crochet stitch in the single loop just below the loops you usually use. This is what gives the boot cuffs a faux-knit, ribbed look. For a visual explanation, you can view this photo tutorial.
(3) HELPFUL HINT: When RibHDC-ing, sometimes it’s easy to miss the last stitch of the row because it ends up at a bit of an angle. So, if your boot cuff is getting skinnier and skinnier, you’re probably neglecting it. Counting your stitches will solve this problem. 🙂
(4) Starting Ch does not count as an HDC.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN (MAKE 2)

To begin: Ch 23.

Row 1: HDC in 2nd Ch from hook, and in each St across. (22 HDC not counting the Ch)

Row 2: Ch1; turn. RibHDC across. (22 RibHDC)

Rows 3-31 (for size small; or, add rows until boot cuff is the length you want it to be… just make sure you end with both tails on the same side of the cowl, as in Step 1’s photo below): Ch1; turn. RibHDC across. (22 RibHDC)

Fasten off, leaving a long finishing tail. To sew together:

Lay cuff flat so that both tails are on the right side (photo 1). Fold cuff so that the end with the long finishing tail overlaps the other end by about 1/2″ (photo 2). This overlap will help give the impression that the buttons we add are actually fastening the cuff together (but without the hassle of actually having to button up the cuff). Use the finishing tail to sew the ends together. I put my seam at the center of the 2 ending rows (which is actually photo 4), and down through the exposed loops of the row below (photo 3), working up and down this line. Fasten off and weave in your ends.

Sew 5 buttons onto each cuff, evenly spaced down the seam that you just sewed.