So I was looking back through all of my patterns the other day and realizing that, for whatever reason, I’ve never designed a regular, classic scarf. I’ve always done infinity scarves! It’s probably because I love to wear them; they are just so easy.

When I got the idea for this scarf, I originally intended it to be an infinity scarf, too. I was going to seam it up at the end, add some buttons, and maybe even add some fringe all the way around. But the longer I worked on it, the more I started to think, this should be a classic scarf. It has this amazing texture, and when I would double-wrap it around my neck, all that gorgeous texture just sort of got lost in the folds. But when I draped it once around my neck and let it hang, it just looked right.

So, here is yet another instance this season when I’m branching out of my “norm” and doing something different than what I’ve always done. I hope you love the finished product as much as I do! This scarf has so many ways it can be worn, and here are a few (my favorite is the Figure 8):

 

On Using A Different Yarn Weight

Every time I design a pattern with #3 light yarn, someone inevitably asks how to adapt the pattern for #4 worsted. I totally get it; I crocheted for at least a year or two before I ventured into anything less than #4. While I think the lighter yarn really contributes to the texture of this pattern (and, shoutout to the newbies: #3 yarn is not as scary as you think it is), it really wouldn’t be that difficult to adapt it for #4 yarn, or even bulky or super bulky yarn. You just need to make the body of the scarf about 65″ long and repeat the rows until it is 7″ wide. Then, when you add your ribbing, chain enough to add a 2.5″ ribbing section to each end. I can’t give you exact stitch / row counts, nor can I tell you how much the yardage would be, but feel free to adapt it as you see fit. (That’s my nice way of saying that if you deviate from the pattern, you’re on your own.)  🙂

And since I loved the finished look of this scarf so much, I knew it needed to be a set. Click here to view the pattern for the matching slouch!

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Elena Scarf

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 70″ long (not including the fringe) x 7″ wide. It’s not “super-scarf” dimensions, but it’s big enough to give you lots of stylish, wearable options.

Hook: H (5.00mm)

Yarn: Approximately 725 yards (this does include the fringe) of Cascade Yarns’ Longwood Sport. Longwood Sport is a #3 light yarn, and the color shown on the sample is “Oatmeal.”

Gauge: 9 rows of 5 (SC+HDC) combos = 2″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put 1 SC and 1 HDC in the same ST)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in rows, and the ribbing sections on the ends are worked after the main part of the scarf is finished.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: CH 309.

Row 1: In 3rd CH from hook, SC+HDC. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (308)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (308)

Rows 3-32: Repeat Row 2. (308)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Ribbing
Next we’ll crochet the small ribbing sections to each end of the scarf. We will crochet one row of SC along the short edge to provide a base for our ribbing, and then we will be working the ribbing in vertical rows, attaching it to the base row with SL STS as we go. 

Ribbing Base Row: Attach yarn to one of the corners of the scarf. SC evenly down the short edge, putting 1SC in each row, for a total of 32SC. CH13.

Ribbing Row 1: Turn your work and SC in 2nd CH from hook, and in each remaining CH. SL ST in the first SC of the Base Row, then SL ST in the next SC of the base row. (12, plus the 2 SL STS on the base row)

Ribbing Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the first 11 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (12)

Ribbing Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 11 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the Base Row. (12, plus the 2 SL STS on the base row)

Ribbing Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the first 11 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (12)

Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way down the Base Row (for 32 rows). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Repeat “Ribbing” instructions for the opposite end of the scarf.

Tassels
Last, we’ll attach tassels to both ends of the scarf.

Cut at least 80 (a few more to be safe) 18″ strands of yarn. In groups of 8 strands, attach yarn to first edge of scarf; 5 groups total, spaced evenly across the edge of the ribbing. Repeat on opposite end of scarf.

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

Have you seen Lion Brand’s new yarn, Shawl In A Ball?

Boasting the potential to create an entire stunning shawl with just one skein, it might be just now starting to show up at your local craft stores. (Or, you can purchase it direct from Lion Brand, or from Joann Fabrics in limited colors.) I had a chance to try it, and can I just say, wow.

I realize this is not a shawl, but I’ll get to that.

When I first held the yarn in my hands, I was really surprised that it was a category 4 (worsted) yarn. It really feels so much lighter.

The first thing I thought when I started working with it was, “wow, this is like a really thin version of Homespun.” Which freaked me out a little, because (honesty time) I’ve never successfully completed a pattern with Homespun. I love what people are able to make with it, but it’s just too difficult for me to see the stitches. Shawl In A Ball has that similar crinkly feel to it, so I decided to use a stitch combo that I was very familiar with to ensure I would be able to recognize the loops. Once I got past the first row, I really got the hang of it. It’s like anything new; you just have to give it a chance! And you will be soooo glad you did.

Ok, so I know it’s called Shawl In A Ball, but I’m not a shawl-wearer. So, I decided to take it in a little bit different direction, and used it to make this gorgeous infinity scarf. Aren’t you just drooling over those gradual color changes? I had so much fun making this and was so motivated to keep going because I was enjoying the color changes so much. And the finished look of the stitches creates this beautiful fabric that is light and drapes perfectly. I honestly think Lion Brand hit it out of the park with this yarn!

The scarf is wide, so it could be worn over the shoulders in more of a shawl or wrap fashion. My model here is very petite, so it was too large to hang secure on her shoulders, but I bunched it up in the back a bit to at least be able to show you what it would look like. You could simply measure the shoulder width of the intended recipient, and crochet enough rows to match that needed length. Or, you could secure it with a cute pin.

Of course, there are lots of beautiful colorways to choose from, and you’re bound to find one that suits your personality. The name of the color used in my sample is “Mindful Mauve.” If you can’t find it in stores yet, you can buy it from Joann Fabrics Online in limited colors (or, as always, you can get it direct from Lion Brand).

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

PROVIDENCE SCARF

Size:
 Scarf measures 40″ around and is 10″ tall (not including fringe).
Gauge:
 Not crucial, because you can simply chain until you reach 10″. But, in my scarf, a row of 22 stitches is about 5″ in length (and 10 rows of the pattern are about 3″).
Hook: I (5.50mm)
Yarn: 1 skein of Lion Brand Shawl In A Ball (sample shown in “Mindful Mauve”)
You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:
CH (chain)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) It is crocheted as a flat piece, then seamed at the end.
(3) CH1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.
(4) Note that the yarn needed for the fringe is cut from the skein first, so that we can be sure to have enough. You’ll notice on my sample scarf that I alternated between two colors of fringe; this was accomplished because the first few yards of my skein were purple, but they were attached with a manufacturer’s knot to the rest of the skin, which started cream-colored (that was the only knot I found). So, I cut off the purple and set it aside, then cut off enough of the cream for the rest of the fringe, then proceeded to make the scarf. (In other words, I got lucky, and made lemonade out of lemons. Every skein will be different.)

FRINGE

Before we even pick up our hook, we first need to set aside some yarn. We’ll be using the whole skein for this pattern, so we want to make sure we have enough yarn left for fringe! Grab a cutting board or something sturdy that’s somewhere between 8-10″ wide, and follow the instructions below.

1. Wrap the yarn all the way around the cutting board about 40 times. Wrap it snug, but don’t wrap it crazy-tight. Try to be consistent.
2. Take a good pair of scissors and carefully cut the yarn right down the center of the pile.
3. You now have a pile of yarn strands approximately 18″ long. Very carefully, fold it in half and cut at the halfway point again. You should now have about 80 strands of yarn, about 9″ long apiece. Set it aside for when you’ve completed the pattern.

PATTERN

To begin:
CH45. (This should measure about 10″ when lightly stretched; add or subtract chains as necessary, just be sure to begin with an odd number of chains.)

Row 1: SC+HDC in 3rd CH from hook. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44)

Rows 2-132 (or until you get to the end of your skein, or until the scarf is the length you want it to be): CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44)

Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to seam the scarf. Use your yarn needle and finishing tail to whip stitch both ends together.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Attaching the Fringe

Attach fringe to every other row along the entire length of one side of the scarf.