This project is part of the Yarn Stash Challenge.
For more great ideas, or to join the fun, visit the Yarn Stash Challenge blog post!
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Wrapping yarn around bottles is definitely not a new idea, but it is an easy one! What a great way to add some pretty decor to your home using yarn from your stash.
This is also a great project for the kiddos! You could help them come up with some pretty embellishments to add to their jars, like buttons or little crocheted flowers.
The Process
Grab any bottle or other container you think will work. I used three of those little Starbucks Frappuccino bottles, but you could also use a beer or wine bottle, a can, or a jar. Be sure to clean it out first so it doesn’t start smelling!
Attach the yarn to the top of the bottle with some sort of glue. I used a glue stick because it’s what I had, but if I’d have been able to find my super glue, I would’ve used that instead. You just need something that will bond quickly to help the yarn stay in place.
Then, begin wrapping the bottle with the yarn. I tried to stick to a nice single layer of yarn, except on the lip of the bottle where the surface is uneven; for that part, I wound it thickly. The important thing is that the bottle isn’t showing through the yarn.
When you get to the other end, snip off the yarn and glue it in place.
I used some small budding branches from my tree out front to beautify the bottles even more.
Simple as that!
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Don’t forget to share your finished project!
Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to spread joy! Be sure to hashtag #yarnstashchallenge and tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!
This project is part of the Yarn Stash Challenge.
For more great ideas, or to join the fun, visit the Yarn Stash Challenge blog post!
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A cute succulent plant is a staple of the modern workspace. Grab a skein of green yarn from your stash and crochet one for yourself!
The Process
This little plant is made up of several individual pieces which are easily assembled at the end by weaving a single piece of yarn through the base of each leaf. It’s really that simple!
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Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
Yarn: About 160 yards of a #4 weight yarn in a shade of green. I used Yarn Bee Rustic Romantic in “Window Ivy”, a color from my yarn stash that is discontinued. Use what you have! If you want to use a thinner yarn, just downsize your hook a bit and make a smaller succulent.
Hook: F (4.0mm)
Gauge: Unimportant
Terms and Abbreviations:
MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SC (single crochet)
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in a seamless spiral. Do not join, chain or turn unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
(3) There are 3 different sizes of leaves to crochet. You’ll make 5 large, 5 medium, and 3 small.
(4) To help you with assembly, I’ve put together a short video tutorial.
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Pattern for LARGE leaves (make 5)
To Begin: Make a Magic Circle; CH1.
Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)
Round 2: SC in each St around. (6)
Round 3: 2SC in each ST around. (12)
Rounds 4-5: SC in each ST around. (12)
Round 6: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)
Rounds 7-14: SC in each St around. (18)
Round 15: (SC2TOG, SC in next ST) around. (12)
Round 16: SC in each ST around. (12)
SL ST in each of the next 2 STS, then fasten off. Tuck starting tail inside leaf (or weave in if you want). Leave finishing tail attached.
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Pattern for MEDIUM leaves (make 5)
To Begin: Make a Magic Circle; CH1.
Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)
Round 2: SC in each St around. (6)
Round 3: 2SC in each ST around. (12)
Rounds 4-5: SC in each ST around. (12)
Round 6: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)
Rounds 7-12: SC in each St around. (18)
Round 13: (SC2TOG, SC in next ST) around. (12)
Round 14: SC in each ST around. (12)
SL ST in each of the next 2 STS, then fasten off. Tuck starting tail inside leaf (or weave in if you want). Leave finishing tail attached.
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Pattern for SMALL leaves (make 3)
To Begin: Make a Magic Circle; CH1.
Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)
Round 2: SC in each St around. (6)
Round 3: 2SC in each ST around. (12)
Rounds 4-5: SC in each ST around. (12)
Round 6: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)
Rounds 7-10: SC in each St around. (18)
Round 11: (SC2TOG, SC in next ST) around. (12)
Round 12: SC in each ST around. (12)
SL ST in each of the next 2 STS, then fasten off. Tuck starting tail inside leaf (or weave in if you want). Leave finishing tail attached.
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Seaming
Use photos below. With yarn needle and finishing tail, sew the opening of each leaf closed (1 & 2), then tie a knot (3). Poke yarn needle into leaf near the knot, push through the inside of the leaf and outside somewhere near the top (4); snip off the excess (5) and pull at leaf so that tail disappears inside.
Cut a piece of yarn about 2 feet long and thread through a yarn needle. Fold bottom of LARGE leaf in half and thread needle through it to keep the fold in place; slide leaf down string, then add the next LARGE leaf and do the same. Continue with all five of the LARGE leaves.
Continue with each of the five MEDIUM leaves.
Continue with each of the three SMALL leaves. Run yarn needle through a few stitches on the first of the small leaves to connect it with the last leaf.
Turn succulent over and run starting tail along the base of each of the 5 large leaves, pull tight, tie a few knots, and fasten off.
Turn over again, arrange leaves as desired, and use finishing tail to run through leaves from top to bottom and back again in a few different spots (to help keep everything in place). Finish at the bottom, tie a few knots, and fasten off.
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Don’t forget to share your finished project!
Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to spread joy! Be sure to hashtag #yarnstashchallenge and tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!
This project is part of the Yarn Stash Challenge. For more great ideas, or to join the fun, visit the Yarn Stash Challenge blog post!
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I’ve been wanting to make a yarn wall hanging for forever! Yarn wall hangings are a great way to add a pop of color and rustic charm to a room. And they are so, so easy.
So when I was looking for something fun to do with yarn from my stash, a wall hanging was the first thing I thought of. I found the process of making one to be calming and very therapeutic… which is exactly what I need right now.
The Process
First, I went on the search for a nice stick. You could also use a wooden dowel, if you have one, but a sturdy stick works just as well and gives it rustic charm. I found a stick that was almost a yard long, but any length you want is totally fine!
Next I chose my color scheme.
I wanted to stick with white, cream and navy, because those are the colors in my bedroom, where the art would go. I chose yarns with fun textures (finally, a use for all that fur yarn that was too hard to crochet with!) and made a pile on my kitchen table. Then I cut lots and lots of individual strands, making them more than twice as long as I wanted the wall hanging to be in the end.
Then, I started attaching the yarn to the stick using the same method I use when I attach fringe to a crochet project: loop a strand of yarn and slide it down under the stick, then bring ends over stick and down through the loop. Pull tight.
I didn’t have a specific plan going into it as far as color placement; I just decided as I went along, trying to keep it looking cozy and random. I really wanted to end up with a rustic look in the end. I also added braids every so often, just to change it up and add some visual interest. Then I tied string to the ends so I could hang it up.
Once that was done, I trimmed the ends so they were generally straight. (Hint: Use tape across the bottom to guide your scissors.)
Here’s what I ended up with:
I’m in love with the finished product!
Some Tips For You
There are so many directions you can take this project. Here are some things to consider:
Texture: Do you want a rustic look with lots of different textures? Or a more sleek look with only one type of smooth yarn?
Color: Are you looking for a bright pop of cheerful colors? Or a more understated piece with just one or two basic shades? Do you want your colors to be randomly placed, or form a specific pattern?
Shape: Do you want a basic rectangle or square shape? You could also cut your ends in a funky, jagged line, or keep them untrimmed for a more natural finish.
Size: Your wall hanging doesn’t have to be as big as mine; even a stick that’s a foot or less will provide you with a great piece of art that you can hang anywhere in the house.
If you need a little more help, just go to Etsy and search “yarn wall hanging.” Trust me, you’ll find plenty of inspiration!
Make It A Family Affair
Let your kids or grandkids help you, or – better yet – let them make one of their own! They can find their own stick and choose some fun colors, and you can teach them how to attach the yarn. Then, watch their creativity soar!
Don’t forget to share your finished project!
Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to spread joy! Be sure to hsashtag #yarnstashchallenge and tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!
So at the time I’m writing up this pattern, many of us are at the beginning of a long “social distancing” quarantine. A week ago, I wouldn’t have even known what that sentence meant, but now life is changing daily. What a strange time we are living in!
Before we know it, Easter will be upon us! So here’s a fun pattern to get you ready, and if you already have a good cotton stash, you might not even have to make a craft store run.
I’m sorry there’s no video for this one; now that I have all three boys home with me all day every day during the quarantine, there’s not much quiet time available for filming. (Let’s be honest, they’re boys; there’s, like, no quiet time whatsoever.) Luckily, many of the techniques will be familiar to anyone who has already made Yarn + Chai baskets!
About the Yarn
I used two different yarns to make this basket. The bulk of the basket is made with Bernat Softee Baby Cotton, double stranded throughout. The baby hues of this yarn offer lots of options for the perfect Easter color scheme! The white stripes around the basket were made with a small amount of Yarn Bee Soft & Sleek, which I already had in my stash, but any #4 aran weight yarn should work fine. I also used the Soft & Sleek to cover a strip of plastic canvas to serve as the handle.
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I didn’t need more than one skein of any color to complete the project, so in order to double-strand the yarn, I brought both ends of the skein together and wound them into an already-double-stranded ball. That way, I could crochet from one ball instead of two skeins at a time. It took some prep work, but was well worth it!
Leaving out the yellow color was a last-minute decision, so that’s why it’s still in the photo.
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
Finished Size: 8″ wide x 3.75″ tall (excludes handle)
Yarn: I used Bernat Softee Baby Cotton, a #3 weight cotton/acrylic blend, in these colors / amounts:
COLOR A (“Jade Frost”): 225 yards
COLOR B (“Dusk Sky”): 100 yards
COLOR C (“Petal”): 225 yards
I also used a small amount of #4 aran weight stash yarn for the white surface-stitched lines around the basket, and about 30 yards of the same yarn to wrap around the basket handle.
Hooks: H (5.0mm) and G/7 (4.25-4.50mm)
Gauge: Your first 6 rounds should measure 2.75″ across.
You’ll also need: Heavy duty plastic canvas
Terms and Abbreviations: MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) CH (chain) HDC (half double crochet) 3rd Loop (see Special Stitches) CSC (crossed single crochet; see Special Stitches)
Special Stitches:
Crossed Single Crochet (CSC): Insert your hook, yarn under*, draw yarn through stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops. (*This is the only difference between a crossed single crochet and a standard single crochet, for which you would yarn over after inserting your hook.)
3rd Loop: The 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this loop from the bottom.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Much of the pattern is worked double-stranded.
(3) When instructed to “join”, join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round.
(4) The pattern uses the Crossed Single Crochet stitch, but could also be made with standard SC.
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PATTERN
To Begin: With larger hook and COLOR A double stranded, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6CSC in MC. Join. (6)
Round 2: CH1, turn. 2CSC in each ST around. Join. (12)
Round 3: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in next ST) around. Join. (18)
Round 4: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join. (24)
Round 5: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 3 STS) around. Join. (30)
Round 6: CH1, turn.(2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 4 STS) around. Join. (36)
Round 7: CH1, turn.(2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 5 STS) around. Join. (42)
Round 8: CH1, turn.(2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 6 STS) around. Join. (48)
Round 9: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 7 STS) around. Join. (54)
Round 10: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 8 STS) around. Join. (60)
Round 11: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 9 STS) around. Join. (66)
Round 12: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 10 STS) around. Join. (72)
Round 13: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 11 STS) around. Join. (78)
Round 14: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 12 STS) around. Join. (84)
Round 15: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 13 STS) around. Join. (90)
Round 16: CH1, turn. (2CSC in next ST, CSC in each of the next 14 STS) around. Join. (96)
Rounds 17-20: CH1, turn. CSC in each ST around. Join. (96)
Attach COLOR B double stranded. Fasten off COLOR A.
Rounds 21-24: CH1, turn. CSC in each ST around. Join. (96)
Attach COLOR C double stranded. Fasten off COLOR B.
Rounds 25-28: CH1, turn. CSC in each ST around. Join. (96)
Attach COLOR A double stranded. Fasten off COLOR C.
Round 29: CH1, turn. CSC in each ST around. Join. (96)
Round 30: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join. (96)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 31: CH1, turn. CSC in 3rd loop only of each St around. Join. (96)
Round 32: CH1, turn. CSC in each ST around. Join. (96)
Attach COLOR B double stranded. Fasten off COLOR A.
Rounds 33-46 (or until last round reaches bottom of basket when folded down inside): CH1, turn. CSC in each ST around. Join. (96)
Fasten off; weave in all ends.
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Adding White Lines with Surface Crochet (Optional)
With larger hook and white #4 aran weight yarn (single-stranded), and beginning at the seam, use the surface crochet technique to slip stitch 4 white lines around the basket, along the lines where two colors meet. Fasten off and weave in ends. B. Hooked Crochet has a great video on how to do this technique if you have never done it before.
Once you’ve done this, here’s what your basket should look like when unfolded:
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Adding Plastic Canvas
Cut across your plastic canvas to make strips that are the same height as the inner layer of the basket. Set your basket so that it is completely unfolded. Roll up a strip of canvas and insert it into the bottom of the basket, allowing it to expand up against the walls of the basket. Continue adding as many layers as you want to make it as stiff as you want. Fold the inside layer down over the canvas. Work the fabric until it all lays neat and flat.
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Adding a Handle
Cut two more long strips of plastic canvas, this time only about 6 squares wide. Hold the strips together (layered one on top of the other) and use your white aran weight yarn to cover them using either a simple wrap-around, or a woven look (as I did). For my strap, I attached 6 very long strands of yarn to the top row of squares so that I had 12 long strands to work with (we’re talking a few yards long). I divided them in half and very carefully layered them over the canvas and each other, over and over down the canvas, similar to a braiding motion. I was careful to smooth out the yarn each time so it laid nice and flat and covered the most ground. When I got to the ends, I superglued everything in place and cut off the excess. Once I was done I superglued the handles to the inside of the basket.
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You’re done!
I hope you enjoyed this pattern. If you’re sharing your easter basket on social media, be sure to use hashtag #classiceasterbasket and tag me @yarnandchai.design!
If you happened to be watching ESPN on Christmas Day, you might have seen something pretty cool… something that will forever be referred to in our home as “that time mommy crocheted a Christmas stocking for ESPN.” Whaaaaat!?
Yeah, it’s officially the most random, and possibly the coolest, thing I’ve been asked to do since becoming a blogger. You can see the stocking in the teaser commercial below, which aired on ABC and ESPN in the afternoon on Christmas Day 2019 ahead of the basketball game between the Bucks and the 76ers. For a brief moment at 0:20 you can see my red hand-crocheted NBA Countdown stocking hanging from the mantle along with some green (store-bought) stockings, and you can see a closeup of the stocking at 1:03.
On the morning of December 5, I checked my email and saw what I at first assumed was just another junk message. (You wouldn’t believe some of the ridiculous emails I’ve gotten since becoming a blogger.) THANKFULLY I read it a little closer after scanning it over, and realized — oh my goodness — I think this is actually legit! It was from a production agency and they were looking for someone to crochet a few green stockings with different names on them. (I’m guessing they found me by searching for crocheted stockings online, and came across the Malia stocking.)
They needed the stockings as background props for a commercial for the show “NBA Countdown”, and they needed them ASAP. I screenshot the emails and texted them to my husband, who freaked out. (He’s the sports person in the family.) We decided it was definitely legitimate, so I replied to the email and accepted the assignment.
Change of Plans
Over the next couple of days, I emailed back and forth with the head of the production company as we figured out the logistics. The big question for me was, how am I going to add the names? After lots of brainstorming, we decided that using the cross-stitching method would be best. So the next day, I headed to Hobby Lobby for yarn. But right after I got home, there was an apology email in my inbox from the producer, saying that the “higher ups” had changed the plan, and now they wanted one stocking, simple and red (not green), and they wanted the NBA Countdown logo on it. Here’s the rough mockup he sent me:
YIKES!
I looked at the complexity of the logo and knew there was no yarn technique I could use that would recreate the detailing to make it recognizable… at least not in the timeframe I had. So, after a bit of panicking, I realized there was really only one way to add the NBA Countdown logo to the stocking.
Vinyl!
Back to the Store
The only problem was, I didn’t own a Cricut. I’d been daydreaming about having one, but never had a good reason to spend the money on it. Now I did! So I went straight to JoAnn Fabrics and got a brand new Cricut Explore Air 2 (that’s an affiliate link). I had no idea how to use it, but I was going to learn… and quick.
No Time to Waste
Over the next couple of days, I watched tons of Cricut tutorial videos while I crocheted the stocking. For the stocking, I knew that the fabric needed to be as flat as possible so that the soft vinyl wouldn’t get too distorted when it was adhered to the yarn. I had just started another pattern with a new-to-me stitch that I was in love with — the linked double crochet — and decided that would be the way to go. It would produce a nice tight fabric in case they wanted to put anything in the stocking, it wasn’t too textured, and it would be much quicker than single crocheting the whole thing. And at this point, time was running out… once the “higher ups” finalized the design, I only had 4 days to make it and overnight it to Philadelphia for the shoot!
Nothing gets your adrenaline going quite like knowing a national television commercial is waiting on a prop from you.
The Eleventh Hour
Once I finished crocheting the stocking, my nerves really set in. Even though I had practiced adding vinyl to some cotton potholders, I knew that I only had one shot at adding it to the stocking. If I messed up, I would be pulling an all-nighter to remake the stocking and try again, because it was due at FedEx the next day. No pressure.
I cut the vinyl, turned on the heat press, said a prayer, held my breath, and went for it.
It worked! The next morning I packaged it up and dropped it off at FedEx to be overnighted to where the commercial would be shot in Philly, and that was that.
Christmas Day
I had no idea what the commercial was about, who would be in it, or when it would air. All I knew was that it had something to do with the basketball game on Christmas Day, and my stocking would be hanging on a mantle. Of course, we kept ESPN on all day on Christmas. A little before 3pm, right in the middle of opening gifts with extended family at my parents’ house, the commercial aired! There was Joel Embiid (a name I didn’t know before all this happened, because a again, not a sports person), and there behind him on the mantle was a row of store-bought stockings… and one red handmade stocking with the NBA Countdown logo on it.
It was brief but so fun to see, and so surreal! It made me realize just how much thought is put into commercials and everything in them. And I’m so glad I got to be a tiny part of it!
Many, many years ago, my grandpa was on a game show on television, and I remember how cool I thought that was. Now I get to tell my own grandkids someday about the time Grandma crocheted a stocking and it was on national television on Christmas Day!
What a randomly unexpected and crazy fun little adventure that was. You never know what the blogging life is going to bring… but I sure do love my job!
And that Cricut Explore Air 2? I’m making great use of it! Just in the week before Christmas, I made…
Fun shirts for my boys
A personalized apron for my middle son, who has discovered a love of cooking
Several bags and shirts for extended family members for Christmas
I am having so much fun with it! Stay tuned for some gorgeous Yarn + Chai and yarn-related merchandise in the coming year! And if you’ve been thinking about getting your own Cricut, I highly recommend it.
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If you’re wondering… no, I didn’t write out the pattern for the stocking. There just wasn’t enough time! But I do have a stocking pattern here that you might love 🙂
I got the idea for this crocheted wall art while I was walking through the Christmas section of Hobby Lobby. I kept seeing these popular farmhouse-style paintings of a wreath mounted on wood, and I thought… I could do something like that! Of course I wanted to put my own crocheted spin on it, so I gathered some supplies and got to work.
The 18″x18″ canvas, wreath and “Joy” ornament were all from Hobby Lobby, as well as the yarn I used: Yarn Bee Must Be Merino Aran in White.
First, I crocheted a 20″x20″ square piece of fabric. I did the first third of it in the Malia stitch pattern, the middle in the herringbone half double crochet stitch, and the last section in Malia again. Then, I staple-gunned it to the canvas (shout out to my dad, who is alway up for helping me with my projects), being careful to keep everything nice and straight and taut. Here’s what it looked like on the front:
And on the back:
Not so pretty on the back! But that’s just the nature of crocheted fabric. As long as the front is nice and smooth, who cares!
After I finished with the canvas, I attached the small wreath using some 20 gauge wire that I found in the jewelry section. I simply stuck the wire through the wreath in two nearby places, then through the crocheted fabric and canvas to the back, where I joined the wire ends by twisting them together. I did that again in two more places around the wreath to keep everything in place. Then I set the “joy” ornament in the middle; I didn’t attach it, because I want to be able to change it out, but you could easily hot glue it in place.
And that’s all there is to it!
You could totally crochet up a different fabric for the canvas; you don’t have to use the same stitches I did. Just make sure it’s about 2″ wider than the canvas you are using, all the way around. You’ll need those extra inches to wrap it around the edge.
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
Crocheted Christmas Wall Hanging
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: 20″ x 20″ fabric (to cover an 18″ square canvas)
Hook: H (5.0 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge
Yarn: Yarn Bee Must Be Merino Aran, a #4 aran weight yarn. I used about 500 yards, or a little more than 3 skeins, of the color “White”.
Gauge: 15 HDC = 4″ across.
You’ll also need: 18″ square canvas, wreath (mine is about 12″), decoration for center, staple gun, 20 gauge wire
Terms and Abbreviations: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”) 3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”) HHDC (herringbone half double crochet – see “Special Stitches”)
Special Stitches:
Large Bean Stitch (LBS) Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)
3rd Loop Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.
Herringbone HDC (HHDC) Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) If you don’t want to worry about gauge, just use a ruler and chain any odd amount. Measure your first couple of rows to make sure they are about 2″ wider than the canvas.
INSTRUCTIONS
To begin: CH77.
Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (76)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 74 STS. SC in final ST. (76)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (76)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 37 times. SC in final ST. (76)
Row 5: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (76)
Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 74 STS. SC in final ST. (76)
Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (76)
Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 37 times. SC in final ST. (76)
Row 9: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (76)
Rows 10-25: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 2 more times. (76)
Rows 26-30: Repeat Rows 2-6. (76)
Rows 31-48: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (76)
Row 49: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (76)
Row 50: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 74 STS. SC in final ST. (76)
Row 51: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (76)
Row 52: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 37 times. SC in final ST. (76)
Row 53: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (76)
Row 54: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 74 STS. SC in final ST. (76)
Row 55: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (76)
Row 56: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 37 times. SC in final ST. (76)
Row 57: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (76)
Rows 58-73: Repeat Rows 50-57, in order, 2 more times. (76)
Rows 74-78: Repeat Rows 50-54. (76)
Fasten off and weave all ends into the wrong side of the fabric.
Attaching Fabric to Canvas
Carefully attach the fabric to the canvas by wrapping it around the edges and securing it with a staple gun.Begin by choosing one edge and stapling right in its center, then stretch fabric taut and straight across canvas and staple center on the opposite edge. Keeping fabric taut, staple the center on the third edge, then staple 4th and final edge. See image for visual:
After all 4 edges are attached, continue by stapling fabric on either side of the first staple, on each edge. (I turned my canvas over several times to make sure everything was nice and straight, using the lines of the fabric as a guide.) See red Xs in image:
Continue to staple out from the center on each edge until fabric is completely attached. You can then go around and add more staples where you think they are needed.
Attaching wreath
After your fabric is attached to the canvas, it’s time to add the wreath! I attached mine with 20 gauge wire by threading both ends of one piece of wire through a section of the wreath (two different spots, but super close together), through the fabric, and through the canvas, then twisting them together on the back of the canvas. I did this in three parts of the wreath to keep everything secure.
If you want, you can add another decoration to the center. I used an ornament that I found at Hobby Lobby; I simply removed the string, and placed it strategically so that the branches covered up the holes in the ornament. I did not permanently attach the ornament, but if you want to, you can use a hot glue gun.
And that’s it! I hope you love your new wall decor!
If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design. Stay cozy!
I’ve got a really simple and fun tutorial for you!
All you need for this easy tutorial is super chunky / bulky / jumbo yarn, a crochet hook, superglue and a foam wreath. After that, you can add whatever beautiful embellishments you want!
So grab your materials, and watch the video below to find out how I did it.
I love fall. I absolutely adore it. While most of my friends are mourning the passing of summer, I feel like I come alive when the air starts to get crisp and the big tree in front of my house starts to turn fiery red. Apple cider? Love it. Cozy sweaters? Bring it on. Fireplace? LIGHT IT UP.
What better way to usher in my favorite season than with a cute little crocheted pumpkin?
I mean, really. That fall-colored yarn? Those curly thingys? So cute.
I posted a preview of these on Facebook and someone tried to tell me they were knitted. Which would be quite the miracle, considering the fact that I have no idea how to knit. I promise, they’re crocheted!
Even Simba agrees.
So if you’re ready to make one or two or twenty for yourself, read on!
VIDEO TUTORIAL
I’ve put together a step-by-step video tutorial for you visual learners! The instructions for the pattern are written right on the screen, so you can follow along visually while also developing your pattern-reading skills. It’s a feature I’ve gotten lots of compliments for on my videos, so it’s definitely worth the extra effort it takes to include it!
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
LITTLE RUSTIC PUMPKIN
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: 3″ tall x 4.5″ wide
Hook: E (3.5mm)
Yarn: Approx. 80 yards of #3 dk weight yarn. For the samples, I used Yarn Bee Must Be Merino in “Rust” and “Gold”. (The off-white, slightly larger pumpkin in the photos was made with the same pattern, but using Must Be Merino Aran (#4 yarn) in “Khaki” and a 4.5mm hook.)
Gauge: 8 rows of 21 HDC worked in 3rd loops = 4″ square. Unless you are concerned about having enough yarn to complete your pumpkin, gauge is really not that important.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, polyester fiber fill, hot glue gun, cinnamon stick, and covered wire.
Terms and Abbreviations:
MC (magic circle – view tutorial here) ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) 3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitch”)
Special Stitch:
3rd Loop Only Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) Yarn, hook size and gauge are only meant as a guide, and this pattern will work with any yarn you choose; just use a hook that is smaller than the yarn’s recommended size for a nice tight fabric, and keep in mind your yarn amounts and finished dimensions will be affected by any changes.
(4) Any time the pattern references the “top” of the pumpkin, it is referring to the end with the magic circle.
INSTRUCTIONS
To begin: Make a magic circle, CH1.
Round 1: 14 SC in MC, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. Do not pull MC hole closed; we want it to remain a bit open for the stem later. (14)
Round 2: CH1. 3 SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (42)
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Next we’re going to make the body of the pumpkin, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching to Round 2 with SL STS as we go.
– – – – – –
Row 1: CH27. SC in 2nd chain from hook, HDC in each of the next 24 STS, SC in final ST. SL ST into the first SC from Round 2, the stitch on which your CH27 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Round 2. (26, plus the two slip stitches along Round 2)
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 2, SC in first ST, HDC in 3rd loop of each of the next 24 STS, SC in final ST. (26)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST, HDC in 3rd loop of each of the next 24 STS, SC in final ST. SL ST into each of the next 2 STS of Round 2. (26, plus the 2 SL STS along Round 2)
Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 2, SC in first ST, HDC in 3rd loop of each of the next 24 STS, SC in final ST. (26)
Rows 5-42: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Round 2.
Bottom Edge Round: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly along the bottom edge of the pumpkin, putting one SC at the end of each row; you should have 42 SC. (See photo for guidance). Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (42)
Fasten off, leaving a yard-long tail (more if you’re using thicker than DK yarn).
– – – – – – – – – –
Shaping + Finishing
Follow these steps to shape and finish your pumpkin. Remember, the “top” of the pumpkin is where your magic circle is. Watch the video tutorial for additional help.
Stem: Cut a length of cinnamon stick to serve as the pumpkin stem. Insert into the hole created by the magic circle, then pull the starting tail so that it tightens up around the stem. Weave in starting tail; remove stem. (You’ll glue it in place at the end.)
Seaming:
With finishing tail threaded into yarn needle, hold pumpkin so that the magic circle end is to the left, and the final row of HDC is above the initial chain row. (Depending on how you were holding your pumpkin as you crocheted it, you may need to turn it inside out to accomplish this.) Begin by running yarn needle up through first chain and first (SC) stitch (first image). Then, coming back the other way, insert needle down through the 3rd loop of the HDC, and down across through the corresponding chain (2nd image). Do the exact same thing on the next stitch; come down through the 3rd loop of the next HDC, and down across through the corresponding chain. Seam each HDC to its corresponding chain in this way (3rd image), and when you get to the final stitch (which is an SC), run needle through it and down to the final chain. Tie a knot to prevent pulling; do not fasten off.
Cinching, Stuffing and Closing:
Turn pumpkin right-side out so that your finishing tail is inside. Still using the finishing tail and yarn needle, bring yarn down through the middle of the pumpkin and insert needle into one of the stitches along the bottom edge of the pumpkin. Pull excess yarn through the stitch, and without pulling it tight (leave it somewhat inside the pumpkin), tie another knot (first image). Use yarn needle to weave tail along the edge of the pumpkin, weaving every 3 stitches until you’re back where you started (2nd image). Set yarn needle down and stuff pumpkin, then pull yarn tail to cinch closed (3rd image). Weave yarn needle across the cinch in a couple different directions to reinforce closure; tie a knot, but do not fasten off.
Shaping: Take a look at the top of your pumpkin, and identify the circle of 14 holes created when you crocheted Round 2 (the small holes that were the result of putting three SCs into each stitch). Still threaded with finishing tail, push yarn needle up through the middle of the pumpkin and out one of those holes, then reinsert needle into the next hole to the right and back down through the middle of the pumpkin (first image), and out the bottom, being sure to catch a couple strands of yarn from the bottom cinched edge. Then repeat the process, going back up through the pumpkin and out through the next hole to the right, then back down through the hole after that and back down to the bottom. Each time you make a pass, pull the yarn a bit to shape the pumpkin (the centers should begin to pull inward; 2nd image). Do this all the way around the 14 holes until center is completely pulled inward (3rd image). Tie a couple knots at the bottom and fasten off yarn.
Stem + Covered Wire: Add a bit of fast-drying glue to the cinnamon stick where you want to attach your covered wire curls, then quickly wrap the middle of the covered wire around the glue a couple of times; hold to set (first image). Wrap each end of the wire around a pencil to shape into a curl (2nd image). Add more glue to the magic circle area of the pumpkin (image 3), then quickly insert cinnamon stick and push down; hold to set.
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Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #littlerusticpumpkin and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!
The linen (or moss, or seed, or granite) stitch has become a popular choice for baby blankets, and it’s easy to see why. A little quicker than a purely single crocheted blanket (which I also love; see here), the linen stitch still provides a solid and modern-looking fabric, safe for those little baby fingers.
The linen stitch is very basic, so it’s left up to the crocheter to decide how to spruce it up with color. I actually got the inspiration for this blanket from one of my son’s newborn socks! (What can I say? You never know when inspiration will strike.)
ABOUT THE YARN
This was my first experience with Lion Brand’s Feels Like Butta (affiliate link) yarn. It’s just as soft as they say it is; a little dense, but great for a stroller or carseat blanket for a cooler-weather baby. It doesn’t split at all, and the colors are fresh and bright.
VIDEO TUTORIAL
I’ve put together a step-by-step video tutorial for you visual learners! The instructions for the pattern are written right on the screen, so you can follow along visually while also developing your pattern-reading skills. It’s a feature I’ve gotten lots of compliments for on my videos, so it’s definitely worth the extra effort it takes to include it!
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
LINEN STITCH BABY BLANKET
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: Approx. 30” wide x 36” long (stroller blanket size)
Hook: J (6.0mm) and F (4.0mm). My favorite hooks are Clover Amour.
Yarn: Approx. 1100 yards of #4 aran weight yarn in 3 colors. Yarn used in sample is Lion Brand Feels Like Butta in Pale Grey (COLOR A, about 390 yards), White (COLOR B, about 320 yards), and Lilac (COLOR C, about 390 yards).
Gauge: With larger hook, the following pattern = 4″ square:
To begin: CH19. Row 1: SC in 3rd CH from hook. (CH1, SK next ST, SC in next ST) across. Rows 2-18: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SK first ST, SC in CH1 space. (CH1, SK next ST, SC in next CH1 space) across.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle
Terms and Abbreviations: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) BLO (back loop only)
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) A video tutorial is available up in the post, or by clicking here.
(3) When doing your gauge check: If you have to move up or down in hook size to match gauge, be sure to move up or down the same number of millimeters for your smaller hook as well.
(4) Fasten off at each color change.
(5) Because of all of the CH1s in the linen stitch, you’re going to want to try to keep a loose tension in the body of the blanket. CHs do not have the stretch that other stitches do. Adjust your hook size if it seems the body of the blanket is getting wider or thinner than the ribbed section.
– – – – – – – – – –
INSTRUCTIONS
TOP RIBBING
With smaller hook and COLOR A, CH11.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (10)
Rows 2-144 (or until ribbing measures about 29-30″ long): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 8 STS. SC in final ST. (10)
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BODY (Row count restarts back to 1)
Switch to larger hook. Pay attention in your first few rows, and if they seem like they are getting wider than the strip of ribbing, downsize your hook; if they are pulling the ribbing inward, choose a larger hook.
Body, Row 1: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), do not turn. We are now working down the long edge of the ribbing. Look at the edge of the ribbing as a series of tiny peaks and valleys. Skip over the first peak and SC in the valley right after it. (CH1, SK next peak, SC in next valley) across, putting your final SC in the corner of the ribbing at the other end. (72 CH1 spaces + 72 SC)
Rows 2-154: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SK first ST, SC in CH1 space. (CH1, SK next ST, SC in next CH1 space) across. (72 CH1 spaces + 72 SC). Use the following color pattern:
Rows 2-32 (32 rows): COLOR A Rows 33-34 (2 rows): COLOR B Rows 35-42 (8 rows): COLOR A Rows 43-46 (4 rows): COLOR B Rows 47-52 (6 rows): COLOR A Rows 53-58 (6 rows): COLOR B Rows 59-62 (4 rows): COLOR A Rows 63-70 (8 rows): COLOR B Rows 71-72 (2 rows): COLOR A Rows 73-82 (10 rows): COLOR B Rows 83-84 (2 rows): COLOR C Rows 85-92 (8 rows): COLOR B Rows 93-96 (4 rows): COLOR C Rows 97-102 (6 rows): COLOR B Rows 103-108 (6 rows): COLOR C Rows 109-112 (4 rows): COLOR B Rows 113-120 (8 rows): COLOR C Rows 121-122 (2 rows): COLOR B Rows 123-154 (32 rows): COLOR C
– – – – – – – – – – – – – –
BOTTOM RIBBING
In this section, we will be creating the bottom ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the body as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 154”; that’s the last row of the body of the blanket we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to. I cover this in the video tutorial for this blanket, but if you feel you need a little more in-depth help with this part, here’s another tutorial video that is specifically about this technique.
– – –
Switch to smaller hook; CH11.
Row 1: Turn. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 9 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Row 154, the stitch on which your CH11 was built. SL ST into the 1st CH1 space from Row 154. (10, plus the two slip stitches along Row 154)
The section we just created, built on the CH11, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 154, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 9 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in next SC and next CH1 space along row 154. (10, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 154)
Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 154, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)
Rows 5-144: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way across Row 154.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
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Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #linenstitchbabyblanket and tag me @yarnandchai.design
I’ve been getting so many requests for a square version of my baskets and I’ve promised to publish a pattern… today I’m finally delivering on that promise!
You can read through my design process, or scroll down for the free pattern.
Figuring Out the Base
I knew that I wanted these baskets to be built in one piece (no seaming). I initially started with a square base made in the round, like you would build a granny square, but I just wasn’t happy with the way the base puckered. Baskets need a tighter-than-usual hook and yarn combo that simply isn’t compatible with a nice flat worked-in-the-round square. So next, I tried a square worked in rows. Much better! Because of the tightness, the square didn’t lay flat at first, but by the time I finished the basket you never would’ve known.
Stabilizing the Sides
I also experimented with the plastic canvas to figure out the best way to utilize it. (If you aren’t familiar with my plastic canvas method for round baskets, check it out!) Round baskets naturally have a balanced design that provides structure to the edges, but square baskets lack that because of their long edges and inner corners. I started by putting folds in the canvas to accommodate the corners, but ended up cutting at the folds and stacking separate pieces against the individual sides of the basket. It seemed to make the corners a little more defined.
Adding Handles
I grabbed some leather from the craft store and cut it into small strips for the handles. I initially tried to attach them to the basket with rivets, but it wasn’t going very smoothly, and even when I did a decent job of hammering them, they still popped out of the yarn. So, I went with Plan B and sewed them on. I used a tiny hole punch to punch 4 holes in each end and used leftover yarn to sew them on with an “X”, going right through the plastic canvas on the inside of the basket. Of course, handles on your basket are totally optional. It does add a lot of character, though!
So after lots of trial and error, I think I’ve come up with a pretty cute square basket!
About Those Cute Leather Tags
Those adorable tags on my baskets aren’t actually leather at all – they’re cork! I had mine printed by All This Wood (affiliate link). They always do a great job for me. If you purchase tags of your own through this link, you won’t pay any extra, but I’ll get a small percentage of the sale. My affiliate links are just one of the ways I am able to keep releasing free patterns, so I am always incredibly appreciative of anyone who uses them!
Video Tutorial
I’ve put together a video tutorial to assist you throughout this pattern. The video tutorial is specifically designed to help you create any size of basket you want! Instructions for inserting the plastic canvas can be found at 27:35.
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
Herringbone Square Basket Set
Difficulty: Easy
Yarn: I used Bernat Maker Home Dec (a #5 bulky weight cotton/nylon blend) in “Clay”. Yarn amounts are listed with individual pattern sizes.
Hooks: H (5.0mm) and G (4.25mm)
Gauge: With larger hook, 14 SC x 14 rows =4″ square
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker, heavy duty plastic canvas
Terms and Abbreviations: ST/STS (stitch/stitches) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see Special Stitches, below)
3rd Loop (see Special Stitches, below)
Special Stitches:
HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.
3rd Loop: Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. For this pattern the 3rd loop can be found just below the back loop on the side of the work that is facing away from you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, reach over the two top loops and insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the right side of the pattern. Also called Camel Stitch or RibHDC.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) IMPORTANT: Part of this pattern is worked in rows, part is worked in seamless rounds, and a small portion is worked in joined rounds. Pay attention, and only join, chain and/or turn when specifically instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds when working seamlessly.
(3) When instructed to “join”, you should always join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of that round.
(4) The finished size of each basket is listed on its individual pattern.
(5) Heavy duty plastic canvas is inexpensive and can be purchased in individual sheets at many craft stores.
(6) To resize the basket, simply chain the length you want one side to be, then crochet the same number of rows as you have stitches in each row.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining chain. (16)
Rows 2-16: CH1, turn. SC across. (16)
Next we’ll switch to rounds and build up the sides of the basket.
Round 1: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across (16 STS). Turn corner and HHDC in each row, as you would if you were adding an edging (16 STS). Turn corner and HHDC in each ST from the starting chain (16 STS). Turn corner and HHDC in each row (16 STS). Do not join. (64)
Rounds 2-6: HHDC in each ST around. (64)
Round 7: HHDC in each of the first 62 STS. SC in each of the 2 remaining STS. Join. (64)
Round 8: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join. (64)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 9: SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Do not join. (64)
Rounds 10-18 (or until edge touches bottom of basket when folded down): SC in each ST around. (64)
SL ST into the next ST to smooth down the round. Fasten off and weave in ends, then proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas.”
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining chain. (22)
Rows 2-22: CH1, turn. SC across. (22)
Next we’ll switch to rounds and build up the sides of the basket.
Round 1: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across (22 STS). Turn corner and HHDC in each row, as you would if you were adding an edging (22 STS). Turn corner and HHDC in each ST from the starting chain (22 STS). Turn corner and HHDC in each row (22 STS). Do not join. (88)
Rounds 2-8: HHDC in each ST around. (88)
Round 9: HHDC in each of the first 86 STS. SC in each of the 2 remaining STS. Join. (88)
Round 10: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join. (88)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 11: CH1. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Do not join. (88)
Rounds 12-21 (or until edge touches bottom of basket when folded down): SC in each ST around. (88)
SL ST into the next ST to smooth down the round. Fasten off and weave in ends, then proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas.”
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Adding Plastic Canvas
Cut across your plastic canvas to make strips that are the same height as the inner layer of the basket, and as long as two sides of it. (Cut at least 4; add more for more stability.) Set your basket so that it is completely unfolded. Fold strips of canvas in half and insert along each edge, then fold the inside layer down over the canvas. Work the fabric until it all lays neat and flat.
If you want, you can sew the inner edge of the fabric to the bottom of the basket to keep everything in place. (Don’t do this if you want your basket to be machine washable.)
A visual demonstration of this process can be found in the tutorial video at the 27:35 mark.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Adding Handles (Optional)
Cut two equal-sized strips of leather (whatever size you want). Punch 4 holes in each end in a square shape, then use a small yarn needle to sew them to the sides of your basket, working though both layers of crocheted fabric and the plastic canvas in between.
You’re done!
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your baskets on social media, be sure to use hashtag #herringbonebasket and tag me @yarnandchai.design!
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(that’s an affiliate link). I had no idea how to use it, but I was going to learn… and quick.
